length PONTIAC FIERO 1988 Service Repair Manual

SI METRIC-CUSTOMARY CONVERSION TABLE
to get equivalent
by nurnber of: Multiply
to get equivalent
by number ol: Multiply
LENGTH ACCELERATION
Inch Foot
Yard
Mile millimeters (mm)
meters (m) meters
kilometers (km) TORQUE
AREA
newton-meters (N-m) newton-meters
millimeters2 (mm2) centimeters2 (cm2 ) meters' (m2) meters2
POWER
Horsepower
VOLUME PRESSURE
OR STRESS
3.377 6.895
mm3 cm3
liters (I)
liters
liters
meters3
(ma)
Inches of mercury
Poundslsq. in. kilopascals (kPa) kilopascals
Quart
Gallon
Yard3
ENERGY OR WORK
BTU
Foot-pound
Kilowatt-hour joules
(J)
joules
joules (J
= one W's) MASS
Pound
Ton Ton kilograms
(kg)
kilograms (kg)
tonne (t)
Foot candle
FORCE
FUEL PERFORMANCE
Kilogram
Ounce Pound newtons (N) newtons
newtons Mileslgal Gallmile kilometerslliter (km/l) literslkilometer (Ilkm)
TEMPERATURE
VELOCITY
1.609 Degree Fahrenheit
degree Celsius (C) Mileslhour

R-4 AIR CONDITIONING COMPRESSOR OVERHAUL 1 Dl-17
2. Align
the new Main Bearing and the Bearing
Installer
5-24895 squarely with the bearing bore
of the Front Head and drive the bearing into the
Front Head. The Installer J-24895 must seat
against the Front Head to insert the bearing to
the proper clearance depth.
Fig. 47 Installing Main Bearing
3. Assemble the Front Head to the cylinder, using
a new O-ring as described in FRONT HEAD
replacement procedure.
4. Evacuate and charge the refrigerant system
according to the directions in Section
1B.
SHELL AND O-RINGS
Fig. 48 thru 50
Remove or Disconnect
1. Discharge the refrigerant system according to the
directions in Section
1B.
2. Thoroughly clean exterior of compressor to
prevent dirt from getting into compressor during
shell removal.
3. Remove the Clutch Plate and Hub assembly as
described in CLUTCH PLATE AND HUB
removal procedures.
4. Perform Steps 1 through 4 of CLUTCH ROTOR
AND BEARING removal procedure but do not
loosen or remove the pulley rim mounting screws
so as to remove the Clutch Rotor and Bearing,
Clutch Coil and Pulley Rim as a total assembly.
Be careful not to drop the Puller Guide J-25031
when removing the assembly.
5. Pry the shell-retaining strap away from the
cylinder and position the strap high enough to
clear the cylinder as the Shell is removed.
6. Remove Compressor Holding Fixture J-25008-A,
and reverse Holding Fixture with step block
protrusions engaging the compressor Shell.
Install the medium-length metric thread
mounting bolts through the Holding Fixture and
thread them finger-tight on both sides into the
compressor cylinder until the step of the fixture
protrusions contact the compressor Shell. Check
to be sure the step protrusions do not overlap the
cylinder but will pass both sides. Allow
compressor to cool to room temperature before
removing compressor shell.
2-J-25008 -A
HOLDING FIXTURE
Fig. 48 Releasing Shell Retaining Strap
HOLDING FIXTURE
2-SHELL TO
CYLINDER
O-RING
3-ALTERNATELY
TIGHTEN
SCREWS
APPROX.
114 TURN
4-STEP CONTACTS
COMPRESSOR
SHELL
Fig. 49 Removing Shell
7. Alternately tighten each bolt approximately 1/4
turn to push the Shell free of the O-rings on the
cylinder.
If one screw appears to require more force to turn
than the other, immediately turn the other screw
to bring the screw threading sequence in-step or
the Shell will be cocked and made more difficult
to remove. Normal removal does not require
much force on the wrench if the screws are kept
in-step while turning. The Shell can be removed
by hand as soon as the Shell is free of the shell to
cylinder O-rings. Do not turn the screws any
further than necessary to release the Shell.
8. Remove the compressor Shell and remove the
Holding Fixture J-25008-A from the compressor.
Reverse the Holding Fixture to again hold the
compressor by the opposite side, using the
short-length screws with metric threads.
9. Remove and discard both cylinder to Shell
O-rings.

BUMPERS 28-3
Check the bumper bracket, piston tube, frame
bracket and cylinder tube for evidence of visible
distortion. Scuffing of the piston tube will occur when
the unit is stroked, and this is considered normal.
If there is obvious damage to the unit, it should
be replaced.
3. On-Bench Test
a. Position energy absorber lengthwise in arbor
press.
b. Using
a suitable measuring device, note original
position of unit, then use press to compress unit
at least
3/8".
c. Release pressure and determine whether unit has
returned to original position.
If not, discard unit.
4. Inspection After Collision
If the collision was so severe that the bumper did
not return to its original position, the energy
absorber(s) will require replacing.
a. Stand clear
of the bumper.
b. Provide
a positive restraint, such as a chain or
cable to hold the bumper in position.
c.
WEARING SAFETY GLASSES, drill a small
hole in the piston tube near the bumper bracket,
Fig.
2, to relieve gas pressure.
Fig. 2 Scrapping Energy Absorber
d. Remove the energy absorber(§) after gas pressure
has been relieved.
CAUTION: Failure to observe the
following procedures when handling
energy absorbing devices
nnay result
in personal injury.
1. Do not apply heat to unit.
2. Do not weld near unit.
3. Do not attempt to repair a damaged unit.
Always replace it with a new unit.
4. If a unit is bound-up as a result of a collision
such that it cannot extend, take precautions
to avoid spring-back when bending sheet
metal.
5. If
a unit is to be scrapped, relieve the gas
pressure prior to disposal of the unit. Make
an indentation with a center punch in the
small cylinder section of the energy
absorber, Fig.
1. Use a 1/8 inch drill to
penetrate the small cylinder wall.
Alternate Scrapping Procedure
The following alternate procedure for
deactivating the energy absorber may be used
ONLY
IF the absorber is in the extended position.
1. Mount energy absorber frame bracket in vise.
2. Using a 5/32" drift pin punch, drive sealing ball
inward.
BE SAFE. PROTECT YOUR EYES.
WEAR
APPROVED SAFETY GLASSES.

CHASSIS SHEET METAL 2C-3
3. Allow hood to open, and tighten latch bolts in
new location.
FENDER PANEL
An outer fender panel with a plastic inner panel
is used. Care should be used in handling raw fenders
due to the lack of fender rigidity prior to installation.
Body surfaces at molding areas must be cleaned
thoroughly with suitable organic solvent immediately
prior to installation to ensure adhesion. Do not allow
adhesive surface of molding to come in contact with
wet solvent, dirt, or foreign matter.
NO"FICE: If heat source is used to condition
moldings prior to installation, the source is to
provide
uniform heating, not to exceed 85°F.
Application is to be made in a clean area with
ambient and body surface temperatures of at least
65°F.
The moldings are to be secured with two appli-
cations of a force of 20 pounds for the full length of
each section using a roller or other suitable tool.
Any section of molding removed once in contact
with the body surface must be replaced.
ALUMINUM PANEL REPAIR PROCEDURES
An aluminum hood (inner and outer panel) is
used on some vehicles. An aluminum panel can be
identified by checking it with a magnet, preferably in
the front corners to avoid any possible damage to the
paint. Aluminum will not attract a magnet.
Aluminum panels can be repaired successfully
with only slight changes of materials and techniques
commonly used to refinish steel panels. The necessary
modifications fall into two categories: 1) metal
preparation; and 2) painting.
Metal Preparation
1. Because aluminum is relatively easy to grind,
care must be taken not to use overly coarse abra-
sive discs or excessive grinder speeds (greater
than 2,000 rpm), both of which will cause
excessive heat and unnecessary metal removal.
2. Surface scratches should normally be removed
with 180 or 120 grit paper with scalloped edges.
Hand sanding with 80 grit paper will usually be
sufficient to remove excessive body filler or
heavy scratches, again followed with 180 grit
paper.
NOTICE: Avoid scratching aluminum when
sanding with 80 grit paper by hand.
3. Foam backed pads are recommended for
grinders used on aluminum, rather than the
stiffer rubber pads used for mounting abrasive
discs used on steel. The foam pad helps to
reduce heat build-up and improves blending for
feathering.
4. Localized heat, generated by grinding, can be
minimized by the use of a grease stick, such as
Formax F-160 or equivalent. This does, how-
ever, tend to load up the grinding discs quickly,
which should be periodically cleaned by rotating
them against a brush wetted with solvent.
5. If out-dings or minor convex defects need to be
filed, it is recommended to use a round edge,
double cut, flexible file with 22 teeth per inch
overlaid with 52 teeth per inch (such as
Nicholson
#50-412 or equivalent).
NOTICE: Keep file clean so that chips do not
scratch aluminum.
The use of heat is not recommended, since the
structural characteristics of aluminum are noticeably
affected by heat. A bent or buckled aluminum hood,
which exhibits strain cracks either before or after
straightening, should be replaced.
Both steel and aluminum panels can be metal
prepped and repaired with two-part polyester filler
materials in the same number of operations. The only
differences are that less aggressive type files and abra- sive discs should be used, with care being taken not to
overheat the aluminum.
Painting
Painting procedures for aluminum panels differ
very little from those used on steel panels. Two pre-
cautions should, however, be observed:
1. Alkaline base paint removers are not recom-
mended and should not be used.
2. Aluminum also requires a chemical cleaner such
as
DuPont 2253, Ditzler DX-533, or equivalent
be used on bare metal to remove contaminants
and corrosion. After cleaning, a conversion
coating such as DuPont
226S, Ditzler DX-503
or equivalent should be applied to promote
adhesion.
Beyond these considerations, painting alumi-
num panels should present no increases in difficulty or
changes in procedure and technique.
PAINTING AND REPAIRING NONMETAL
EXTERIOR PARTS 1
FiberglassIABS Plastic Panel Repair ~
A Plastic Solder Repair Kit can be used to repair
cracks, dents, or pits in fiberglass or ABS panels. A
Glass Woven Cloth should be installed on the under
side of a crack in the panel to structurally reinforce the
panel. The following procedure can be used to repair
the panels:
1. With a lacquer removing solvent, remove paint
from damaged area down to the fiberglass or
, ABS material. I
2. Scuff-sand area surrounding damaged area to
provide a good bonding surface.

3-10 STEERING, SUSPENSION, TIRES AND WHEELS DIAGNOSIS
Reminder Keeps Operating With Key In Lock
Cylinder, Driver's Door Open Or Closed; Ceases
When Key Is Removed
Inspect
s Door jamb switch on driver's side misadjusted or
inoperative.
e Wire from signal switch to door jamb switch
shorted.
A. This condition indicates the lock cylinder or
the reminder switch is at fault. To verify,
check for continuity at the
"E" and "F"
male column connector contacts, with the
key removed from the lock cylinder. If
continuity exists, the fault is in the column.
B. Insert the key into the lock, then turn the
lock toward the "Start" position. If the
reminder stops when the key is in the
"Run" position or when it is turned past
"Run" toward "Start," the problem is a
sticky lock cylinder actuator.
COLUMN-MOUNTED DIMMER SWITCH
No "Low" or "High" Beam
Inspect
e Loose connector at dimmer switch
e Improper adjustment
e Internally damaged or worn switch. Check the
continuity on the switch at the It. green and at the
tan switch terminals by pushing in the plunger all
the way.
A click should be heard. If there is no
continuity, replace the dimmer switch. If there is
continuity, refer
to'section 8A for electricaldiag-
nosis.
PIVOT AND SWITCH ASSEMBLY
Switch Inoperative: No "Low," "High" and/or
"Wash"
e Loose body-to-switch connector
a Broken or damaged switch
Internally damaged or worn switch. Connect a
new switch without removing the old one. If the
system functions, replace the switch. If the
system doesn't function, refer to Section
8A for
electrical diagnosis.
STEERING GEAR AND PUMP LEAKS
General Procedure
Inspect
s Overfilled reservoir
s Fluid aeration and overflow
e , Hose connections
Verify exact point of leakage Example:
Torsion bar, stub shaft and
adjuster seals are close together; the exact
spot where the system is leaking may not be
clear.
Example: The point from which the fluid is
dripping is not necessarily the point where
the system is leaking; fluid overflowing from
the reservoir, for instance.
e When service is required:
A. Clean leakage area upon disassembly.
B. Replace leaking seal.
C. Check component sealing surfaces for
damage.
D. Reset bolt torque to specifications, where
required.
Some complaints about the power steering system
may be reported as:
A. Fluid leakage on garage floor
B. Fluid leaks visible on steering gear or pump
C. Growling noise, especially when parking or
when engine is cold
D. Loss of power steering when parking
E. Heavy steering effort
When troubleshooting these kinds of complaints,
check for an external leak in the power steering system.
For further diagnosis of leaks, refer to External
Leakage Check in this section.
External Leakage Check
Fig. 12
The purpose of this procedure is to pinpoint the
location of the leak.
In some cases, the leak can easily be located. But,
seepage-type leaks may be more difficult to isolate. To
locate seepage leaks, use the following method.
1. With the engine off, wipe dry the complete power
steering system.
2. Check the fluid level in the pump's reservoir. Add
fluid if necessary.
3. Start the engine, then turn the steering wheel
from stop to stop several times. Do not hold it at
a stop for any length of time, as this can damage
the power steering pump. It is easier if someone
else operates the steering wheel while you search
for the seepage.
4. Find the exact area of the leak and repair leak.
SEAL REPLACEMENT
RECOMMENDATIONS
Lip seals, which seal rotating shafts, require
special treatment. This type of seal is used on the
steering gear and on the drive shaft of the pump. When
there is a leak in one of these areas, always replace the
seal(s), after inspecting and thoroughly cleaning the
sealing surfaces. Replace the shaft only if very severe
pitting is found. If the corrosion in the lip seal contact
zone is slight, clean the surface of the shaft with crocus
cloth. Replace the shaft only if the leakage cannot be
stopped by first smoothing with crocus cloth.

3A-2 WHEEL ALIGNMENT
0 FRONT
& OF WHEEL
CASTER ANGLE
LEFT SIDE
VIEW
CAMBER
I
Fig. 1 Alignment Angles
the equipment used to adjust alignment, the car must
be on a
level surface, both fore-and-aft and sideways.
ON-CAR SERVICE
CASTER AND CAMBER ADJUSTMENT nuts and bolts. Apply penetrating oil between the
clamp and tube and rotate the clamps until they move
Before adjusting caster and camber the freely. Install new bolts and nuts having the same part front be 'aised and twice to number to assure proper at the specified nut allow vehicle to return to its normal height. See "Trim torque. Heights."
Caster and camber can be adjusted by moving the
position of the upper strut mount assembly, as shown
in Fig. 601. Moving
the mount forward/rearward
adjusts caster; 'movement inboard/outboard adjusts
camber.
The position of the mount can be changed after
loosening the three nuts shown in Fig.
601. The weight
of the vehicle will normally cause the strut assembly to
move to the full inboard position.
Install Tool
5-29724 and tighten the turnbuckle
until the proper camber reading is obtained. Then, if
an adjustment in caster is required, the mount can be
tapped forward or rearward with a rubber mallet.
Tighten the three
(3) nuts to specifications.
TOE-IN ADJUSTMENT
Toe-in can be increased or decreased by changing
the length of the tie rods.
A threaded sleeve is provided
for this purpose.
When the tie rods are mounted ahead of the
steering knuckle they must be decreased in length in
order to increase toe-in.
1. Loosen the clamp bolts at each end of the steering
tie rod adjustable sleeves.
2. With steering wheel set in straight ahead position,
turn tie rod adjusting sleeves to obtain the proper
toe-in
adjustrne~t.
3. When adjustment has been completed according
to the recommended snecifications. check to see
Tie rod adjuster parts often become rusted in
that the number of thrkads showing on each end
service. In such cases, it is recommended that if the
of sleeve are equal and that the tie rod end
torque required to remove the nut from the bolt after housings are at the right angles to steering arm.
breakaway exceeds 9.0
Nam (80 lb. in.), discard the
Position tie rod clamps and sleeves. Torque nuts.

385-2 STEERING WHEELS AND COLUMNS
Fig. 385-2--The Flat on Worm Shaft
5. With wheels in a straight ahead position and the
steering gear on highpoint, check the steering
wheel alignment (Fig.
1). If the spokes are not
within the
limits specified, the wheel should be
removed
and centered. (See steering wheel
removal in this section).
NOTICE: The outer mast jacket shift tube,
steering shaft and instrument panel mounting
bracket are designed as energy absorbing units.
Because of the design of these components, it is
absolutely necessary to handle the column with
care when performing any service operation.
Avoid hammering, jarring, dropping or leaning on
any portion of the column.
NOTICE: When reassembling the column
components, use only the specified screws, nuts
and bolts and tighten to specified torque. Care
should be exercised in using over-length screws or
bolts as they may prevent a portion of the column
from compressing under impact.
I COLUMN REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
The front of dash mounting plates must be
loosened whenever the steering column is to be lowered
from the instrument panel.
Refer to Fig. 3B5-3 for view of column attachment
provisions.
1. Remove nut and bolt from upper intermediate
shaft coupling. Separate coupling from lower end
of steering column. See Figure
3B5-4.
] 2. Disconnect shift linkage from lower shift lever.
3. Disconnect all electrical connectors from column
assembly.
4. Remove screws securing toe pan cover to floor
5. Remove nuts securing bracket to instrument
panel.
ON-CAR SERVICE
STEERING COLUMN
To perform service procedures on the steering
column upper end components, it is not necessary to
remove the column from the vehicle.
The steering wheel, horn components, directional
signal switch, ignition lock cylinder and ignition key
warning switch may be removed with the column
remaining in the vehicle as described earlier in this
section.

FRONT SUSPENSION 3C-1
SEC"T0RI 3C
FRONT SUSPENS
NOTICE: All front suspension fasteners are an important attaching part in that it could affect the
performance of vital parts and systems, and/or could result in major repair expense. They must be replaced with
one of the same part number or with an equivalent part if replacement becomes necessary. Do not use a
replacement part of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly
to assure proper retention of this part.
NOTICE: Never attempt to heat, quench or straighten any front suspension part. Replace it with a new part
or
damage to the part may result.
CONTENTS
General lnformation ....................................................................................................... 3C-I
On-Car Service ................................................................................................................... 3C- I
Specifications ..................................................................................................................... 3C- 10
GENERAL INFORMATION
The front suspension is designed to allow each
wheel to compensate for changes in the road surface ON-CAR SERVICE
level without appreciably affecting the opposite wheel. WHEEL BEARINGS
Each wheel is independently connected to the frame by
The proper functioning of the front suspension
a steering
kunckle, strut assembly, ball joint, and lower cannot be maintained unless the front wheel tapered arm. The steering in a roller bearings are correctly adjusted. The bearings
prescribed three dimensional arc. The front wheels are
must be a slip fit on the spindle and the inside diameter held in proper relationship to each other by two tie rods of the bearings should be lubricated to insure proper which are connected to steering arms on the knuckles ~h~ spindle nut must be a free-running fit and to the relay rod assembly.
on the threads.
Coil chassis springs are mounted between the
spring housings on the front crossmember and the
lower control arms. Ride control is provided by double,
direct acting strut assemblies. The upper portion of
each strut assembly extends through the fender well
and attaches to the upper mount assembly with a nut.
Side roll of the front suspension is controlled by
a spring steel stabilizer shaft. It is mounted in rubber
bushings which are held to the frame side rails by
brackets. The ends of the stabilizer are connected to the
lower control arms by link bolts and are isolated by
rubber grommets.
The inner ends of the lower control arms have
pressed in bushings. Bolts (passing through the
bushings) attach the arm to the suspension
crossmember. The lower ball joint assembly is a press
fit in the arm and attaches to the steering knuckle with
a torque prevailing nut.
Rubber grease seals are provided at ball socket
assemblies to keep dirt and moisture from entering the
joint and damaging bearing surfaces.
Adjustment
Figure 602
NOTICE: See NOTICE on Page 3C-1
of this
section.
1. Remove dust cap from hub.
2. Remove cotter pin from spindle and spindle nut.
3. Tighten the spindle nut to 16 Nsm (12 lb. ft.)
while turning the wheel assembly forward by
hand to fully seat the bearings. This will remove
any grease or burrs which could cause excessive
wheel bearing play later.
4. Back off the nut to the "just loose" position.
5. Hand tighten the spindle nut. Loosen spindle nut
until either hole in the spindle lines up with a slot
in the nut. Not
nlore than 1/2 flat.
6. Install
new cotter pin. Bend the ends of the cotter
pin against nut, cut off extra length to ensure ends
will not interfere with the dust cap.
7. Measure the looseness in the hub assembly. There
will be
from .03 to . l3mm (.001 to .005 inches)
end play when properly adjusted.
8. Install dust cap on hub.
FRONT SUSPENSION
Refer to Fig. 610 for illustration of attachment
provisions for the bolted-on front suspension
suspension
crossmember.

3C-2 FRONT SUSPENSION
Y 1-FRONT CROSSMEMBER 5-KNUCKLE
2-UPPER MOUNT 6-HUB
AND
DISC
3-STRUT 7-LOWER CONTROL ARM I
4-COIL SPRING 520082-3C I I Fig. 601 Front Suspension
1. HAND SPIN WHEEL d
NUT iT LOOSE
5. LOOSEN NUT UNTIL EITHER HOLE IN THE SPINDLE LINES UP WlTH A SLOT IN THE NUT- THEN
INSERT COlTER PIN
NOTICE IEND ENDS OF COTTER PIN AGAINST NUT. CUT OFF EXTRA
LENGTH TO PREVENT
FERENCE
WlTH DUST CAP
6 WHEN THE BEARING IS PRWERLY AWUSTED THERE WILL BE FROM @.lMm I.@l..a0S INCHES1 ENDPUY ILWSENESSI
1 I Fig. 602 Wheel Bearing Adjustment

REAR AXLE 481-9
A central face lengthwise position is shown here representing
COAST SlDE the limit of acceptability of the contacts position towards DRIVE SIDE the heel.
ACCEPTABLE HEEL
CONTACTS
DRIVE SlDE COAST
SlDE
HEEL END
The contact should fade out at least 5mrn before the heel
end face,
A central profile position is shown and is acceptable alrhough a low contact is preferred.
The center of the contact is located at
518 of the face width
from the toe and it does not approach the heel end by less
than
5mm,
A high contact pattern as shown is preferred for coast side
contacts which tend to be towards the heel.
A central profile position is acceptable providing pinion face
angle edge lines do not appear low on the gear.
The contact begins almost at the toe end face and extends in
length by approx, half the facewidth.
A slightly lower contact pattern as shown is preferrable although a centrally located profile postion will suffice.
The contact begins almost at the toe end face and may appear
pointed as shown although a square end is equally acceptable.
The total length of contact is approx.
112 of the face width.
A high profile position is desirable although a central profile
is acceptable.
IDEAL
CONTACTS
DRIVE SIDE COAST SIDE A central toe lengthwise position and a slightly lower contact
pattern in the profile position. Total length about 518 of gear
facewidth.
Note the clearance of about
1 rnrn between the contact and the
toe and along the top face angle line.
A centrally located lengthwise position and a slightly higher
contact pattern in the profile position. Total length about
518 of the gear facewidth.
Note the clearance between the contact and the face angle line
of the gear.
ACCEPTABLE
TOE CONTACTS
Fig. 6 Gear Tooth Contact Pattern