turn CHEVROLET CAMARO 1967 1.G Chassis Service Manual

REAR SUSPENSION AND DRIVE LINE 4-17

Fig.
41—Carrier Mounted Suspension Bushing Removal

(Heavy-Duty) (Chevelle)

c. Turn Nut J-21058-8 to remove bushing from

carrier ear, making sure Remover Adapter

J-21474-2 is centered and will clear hole in

carrier ear.

d. Disassemble puller tools and position Installer

Adapter J-
21474-
2 on flanged end of bushing.

Install Puller Screw J-21058-15 through receiver

so that screw head is seated against receiver.

Position this assembly through inboard side of

carrier ear.

e. Position bushing and Installer Adapter J-21474-2

onto puller.screw with small end of bushing to-

ward carrier ear. Refer to Figure 40 for in-

stalled view of tools.

f. Install Thrust Bearing and Nut J-21058-8 onto

puller screw. Turn nut to pull bushing into car-

rier ear. Check position of bushing when install-

ing to make sure bushing is properly aligned.
b.

c.

d.
Fig.
43—Upper and Lower Control Arm Assembly

(Chevelle)

Heavy-Duty
Carrier

a. Install a 1/2 x 20 nut on Puller Screw J-21058-15,

install thrust bearing against nut. Position puller

screw through Bridge and Receiver J-21830-4

and 7.

Position puller screw through flanged end of

bushing then install Remover Adapter J-21991

on threaded end of puller screw.

Align tools on carrier ear and center remover

adapter on bushing. Hold head of puller screw

and turn 1/2 x 20 nut to withdraw bushing from

carrier ear. Refer to Figure 41 for installed

view of removal tools.

Position Installer J-21474-2 on flanged end of

new bushing and install Driver Handle J-7079-2

to opposite end of installer.

e. Position bushing in carrier ear and drive bush-

ing until it seats against carrier. Bushing is

properly seated when shoulder on bushing con-

tacts carrier. Refer to Figure 42 for installation.

NOTE:
Do not attempt to seat flange of bush-

ing against ear of carrier. Bushing is properly

installed when shoulder on bushing seats against

chamfer on carrier ear.

Installation

1.
Place control arm into position between the forward

and rearward mounting brackets and install retaining

bolts.
Refer to Figure 43 for installation view of

control arms.

Support vehicle at axle and remove supports from

beneath the frame side rails.

Install lock washer and nut to retaining bolts and
2.

3.

torque to specifications.

Fig.
42—Carrier Mounted Suspension Bushing Installation

(Heavy-Duty) (Chevelle)
REAR SUSPENSION TIE ROD-CHEVROLET

Removal

1.
Remove the nut, washer and bolt from the leftside

and the nut and washer from the stud on the right

side that secure the tie rod to the brackets (fig. 44).

Withdraw the rod from under the vehicle. An ex-

ternal shell service bushing is available for left side

on all models and both right and left on station

wagons.

NOTE:
The above operations need not be per-

formed on a hoist. However, to provide ample

working space, the use of a hoist or proper jack

stand is recommended.

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

REAR SUSPENSION AND DRIVE LINE 4-29

REAR AXLE NOISE DIAGNOSIS

Mechanical failures of the rear axle are relatively

simple to locate and correct. Noise in a rear axle is a

little more difficult to diagnose and repair. One of the

most essential parts of rear axle service is proper

diagnosis.

Ail rear axles are noisy to a certain degree. The

action of transmitting the high engine torque through a

90° turn reducing propeller shaft speed produces noise

in rear axles. This point establishes the need for a line

between normal and abnormal or unacceptable axle

noises.

Slight axle noise heard only at a certain speed or under

remote conditions must be considered normal. Axle noise

tends to "peak" at varying speeds and the noise is in no

way indicative of trouble in the axle.

If noise is present in an objectionable form, loud or at

all speeds, an effort should be made to isolate the noise

as being in one particular unit of the vehicle. Axle noise

is often confused with other noises such as tire noise,

transmission noise, propeller shaft vibration and uni-

versal joint noise. Isolation of the noise as in any one

unit requires skill and experience. An attempt to elimini-

ate a slight noise may baffle even the best of diagnos-

ticians. Such practices as raising tire pressure to

eliminate tire noise, listening for the noise at varying

speeds and on drive, float and coast, and under proper

highway conditions, turning the steering wheel from left

to right to detect wheel bearing noise, will aid even the

beginner in detecting alleged axle noises. Axle noises

fall into two categories: gear noise and bearing noise.

GEAR NOISE

Abnormal gear noise can be recognized since it pro-

duces a cycling pitch and will be very pronounced in the

speed range at which it occurs, appearing under either

"drive," "float" or "coast" conditions. Gear noise

tends to peak in a narrow speed range or ranges, while

bearing noise will tend to remain constant in pitch. Ab-

normal gear noise is rare and usually originates from

the scoring of the ring gear and pinion teeth as a result

of insufficient or improper lubrication in new assemblies.

Side gears seldom give trouble as they are used only

when the rear wheels travel at different speeds.

BEARING NOISE

Defective bearings will always produce a whine that is

constant in pitch and varies with vehicle speed. This fact

will allow you to distinguish between bearing noise and

gear noise.

1.
Pinion bearing noise resulting from a bearing failure

can be identified by a constant rough sound. Pinion

bearings are rotating at a higher speed than differen-

tial side bearings or axle shaft bearings. This

particular noise can be picked up best by testing the

car on a smooth road (black top). However, care

should be taken not to confuse tire noise with bear-

ing or gear noise. If any doubt exists, tire treads

should be examined for irregularities that would

produce such noise.

2.
Wheel bearing noise may be confused with rear axle

noise. To differentiate between wheel bearings and

rear axle, drive the vehicle on a smooth road at

medium-low speed. With traffic permitting, turn
Fig.
74—Scored Hypoid Ring Gear

the vehicle sharply right and left. If noise is caused

by wheel bearings, it will increase in the turns be-

cause of the side loading. If noise cannot be isolated

to front or rear wheel bearings, inspection will be

necessary.

3.
Side bearings will produce a constant rough noise of

a slower nature than pinion bearings. Side bearing

noise will not fluctuate in the above wheel bearing

test.

Failure Analysis

The most common types of rear axle failures are

hypoid gear tooth scoring and fracture, differential gear

fracture. and/or differential bearing failure, and axle

shaft bearing failure.

Fig.
75-Cracked Hypoid Ring Gear

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

REAR SUSPENSION AND DRIVE LINE 4-32

HP?

Fig.
81
—Whed Bearing and/or Oil Seal Installation

4.
Install brake components on flange and connect

hydraulic line to wheel cylinder inlet. See Section 5

for brake assembly procedure.

5. Install axle shaft, brake drum and wheel and tire

assembly.

6. Bleed and. adjust brakes as outlined in Section 5.

Installation

1.
Slide axle shaft into place.

CAUTION: Exercise care that splines on end

of shaft do not damage oil seal and that they

engage with splines of differential side gear/

2.
Install axle shaft "C" lock on button end of axle-

shaft and push shaft outward so that shaft lock seats

in counterbore of differential side gear.

3.
Position differential pinion shaft through case and

pinions, aligning hole in shaft with lock screw hole.

Install lock screw and torque to specifications.

4.
Using a new gasket, install carrier cover and torque

bolts to specifications.

CAUTION: Make sure both gasket surfaces on

carrier and cover are clean before installing

new gasket. Torque carrier cover bolts in a

crosswise pattern to ensure uniform draw on

cover gasket.

5. Fill axle with lubricant to a level even with bottom

of filler hole. See Section 0 for proper lubricant.

6. Install brake drum and wheel and tire assembly.

7. Lower vehicle and test operation of axle.

PINION FLANGE, DUST DEFLECTOR

AND/OR OIL SEAL

Replacement

1.
Raise rear of vehicle and place stand jacks under

frame side rails so that axle hangs freely to allow

sufficient working room.

2.
Check wheels for freedom of rotation.

3.
Separate rear universal joint, tape trunnion bearings

to joint, position propeller shaft to one side and tie

it to frame side rail.

4.
Using Tool J-5853 with Adapter J-5810 and a suitable

socket on the pinion flange nut, rotate the pinion

through several complete revolutions and record the

torque required to keep the pinion turning (fig. 82).

If flange is to be reused, mark pinion and flange for

reassembly in the same relative position.

5. Install Tool J-8614-1 on pinion flange and remove

pinion flange nut and washer (fig. 83). (Position
Fig. 82—Measuring Drive Pinion Bearing Preload

J-8614-1 on flange so that the four notches are

toward flange.) Discard nut and use a new one

upon reassembly.

6. Thread pilot end of Tool J-8614-3 into small O.D.

end of J-8614-2. Then with J-8614-1 installed as

in Step 4, insert J-8614-2 into J-8614-1 and turn

it 45 degrees to locked position. Remove flange by

turning J-8614-3 while holding J-8614-1 (fig. 84).

7. Pry old seal out of bore, using a screw driver or a

hammer and chisel.

8. Inspect pinion flange for smooth oil seal surface,

worn drive splines, damaged ears, and for smooth-

ness of bearing contact surface. Replace if

necessary.

9. If deflector requires replacement, remove by tapping

from flange, clean up stake points; install new de-

flector, and stake deflector at three new equally

spaced positions.

NOTE:
Staking operation must be performed

in such a manner that the seal operating surface

is not damaged.

1.0. Pack the cavity between the seal lips of the pinion

flange oil seal with a lithium-base extreme pressure

lubricant, position seal in bore, then using Tools

J-21468 and J-9458, for light-duty axle and Tool

Fig. 83-—Drive Pinion Nut Removal

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

REAR SUSPENSION AND DRIVE LINE 4-34

COMPONENT PARTS REPLACEMENT (CORVETTE)

AXLE DRIVESHAFT-FIGURE 88

Removal

1.
Disconnect inboard driveshaft trunnion from side

gear yoke.

2.
Bend bolt lock tabs down and remove four bolts

securing shaft flange to spindle drive flange.

3.
Pry driveshaft out of outboard drive flange pilot

and remove by withdrawing outboard end first (fig.

89).

Repairs

1.
Remove bearing lock ring from trunnion yoke.

2.
Support turnnion yoke on a piece of 1-1/4" pipe on

arbor press bed.

3.
Using suitable socket or rod, press trunnion down

far enough to drive opposite bearing cup from yoke.

4.
Remove trunnion and press other bearing cup from

yoke, being careful not to
drop'
cup
or lose bearing

rollers.

5. Remove trunnion and yoke from other joint in a

similar manner.

3

AXLE
II 1

i

c

DRI\

c

y
'E SHAFT ^

AXLE
v

DRIVE^
SHAFT
•
Fig.
88—Axle Driveshaft
6. Remove dust seals from trunnion, clean and inspect

bearing rollers and trunnion. Relubricate bearings

with a high-melting point wheel bearing type

lubricant.

NOTE:
In addition to packing the bearings,

make sure that the lubricant reservoir at the

end of each trunnion is completely filled with

lubricant. In filling these reservoirs, pack lu-

bricant into the hole so as to fill from the .

bottom. This will prevent air pockets and en-

sure an adequate supply of lubricant.

7. Place new dust seals on trunnion, cavity of seal

toward end of trunnion - then position Tool J-21556

over end of trunnion and into cavity portion of seal.

Press seal onto trunnion until tool bottoms against

trunnion (fig. 90).

NOTE:
Installation of seal is critical to proper

sealing - use specified tool during installation

to prevent seal distortion and to assure proper

seating of seal on trunnion.

8. Partially install one bearing cup into yoke. Place

trunnion in yoke and into bearing cup. Install other

bearing cup and press both bearing cups into yoke,

being careful to keep trunnion aligned in bearing

cups.

9. Press bearing cups far enough to install lock rings,

and install lock rings.

NOTE:
It may be more convenient, if neces-

sary, to use a bench vise for removal and

installation, instead of an arbor press. In this

case, proceed with disassembly and assembly

procedure as with an arbor press.

Installation

1.
Place driveshaft inboard trunnion into side gear

yokes and assemble
"XJ"
bolts. Rotate yokes so that

trunnion seats are phased 90° apart.

2.
Install outboard drive flange into spindle drive flange

pilot, position bolt lock over bolt holes and install

four bolts. Torque bolts to specification and bend

lock tabs flat against bolt heads.

Fig. 89—Removing Driveshaft

Fig.
90—
"U"
Joint Trunnion Seal Installation

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

REAR SUSPENSION AND DRIVE LINE 4-37

9. Connect spring end link bolts as outlined under

Spring--Installation, in this section.

10.
Remove filler plug, located on right side of cover,

and fill -with hypoid lubricant to level of filler hole.

11.
Lower vehicle and road test for leaks, noise and

general performance.

POSITRACTION DIFFERENTIAL UNIT

The optionally available Positraction differential unit

is installed in the conventional carrier to replace the

standard differential unit.

Service procedures for the Positraction equipped axle

are the same as on a conventional axle except for the.

operations listed below.

On the Vehicle Check

If vehicle is equipped with a manual transmission, shift

transmission into neutral.

1.
Raise rear of vehicle until wheels are off the ground,

remove one wheel and tire assembly.

2.
Attach Adapter J-5748 to axle shaft flange and install

a
1/2-13
bolt into adapter (fig. 97).

3.
With wheel and tire assembly still on vehicle held

firmly to prevent turning, measure torque required
Fig.
97—Measuring Positraction Rotating Torque

to rotate opposite axle shaft with a 0-150# torque

wrench attached to J-5748. Torque should be 70

ft.
lbs. minimum new, and no less than 40 ft. lbs. if

used.

PROPELLER SHAFT AND UNIVERSAL JOINTS

INDEX

Page
Page

General Description 4-37

Component Parts Replacement. 4-38

Propeller Shaft (Dana) 4-38

Removal 4-38

Repairs 4-38
Installation 4-39

Propeller Shaft (Saginaw) 4-40

Removal 4-40

Repairs 4-40

Installation 4-41

GENERAL DESCRIPTION

The one-piece, exposed-type, tubular propeller shaft is

used on all models. The cardon-type universal joints are

of the extended-life design and do not require periodic

maintenance. A splined front yoke on the front end of the

propeller shaft extends into a splined coupling on the

transmission output shaft. This slip joint permits slight

lengthening and shortening of the propeller shaft to com-

pensate for up and down movement of the rear axle
assembly.

A light duty (fig. 98) and a heavy duty (fig. 99) version

of the tubular propeller shaft is used. The heavy-duty

shaft incorporates a damper, as part of the sleeve yoke,

at the transmission end of the shaft. This damper is not

serviced separately—the sleeve and damper (fig. 100)

must be replaced as an assembly.

Two different methods are used to retain the trunnions

Fig.
98—Light-Duty Propeller Shaft Cross-Section (Dana Design)

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

BRAKES
5-3

PRIMARY

SHOE

PAWL
WIRE LINK

OVERRIDE

LEVER

VERRIDE

SPRING

RETURN

SPRING

STAR
WHEEL

Fig.
3—Camaro
Pressure
Regulator
Valve
Fig.
4-Self-Adjusting
Brake

MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENTS

In any service operation it is extremely important

that absolute cleanliness be observed. Any foreign matter

in the hydraulic system will tend to clog the lines, ruin

the rubber cups of the main and wheel cylinders and

cause inefficient operation or even failure of the braking

system. Dirt or grease on a brake lining may cause

that brake to grab first on brake application and fade

out on heavy brake application.

The split system consists basically of two separate

brake systems. When a failure is encountered on either,

the other is adequate to stop the vehicle. If one system

is not functioning, it is normal for the brake pedal lash

and pedal effort to substantially increase. This occurs

because of the design of the master cylinder which

incorporates ah actuating piston for each system. When

the rear system loses fluid and takes in air, its piston

will bottom against the front piston. When the front

system loses fluid and takes in air, its piston will

bottom on the end of the main cylinders body. The loss

of fluid in one of the systems causes an uneven hydraulic

pressure balance between the front and rear systems.

The brake pipe distribution and switch assembly, near

the main cylinder, detects the loss of pressure and il-

luminates the brake alarm indicator light on the instru-

ment panel. The pressure loss is felt at the brake pedal

by an apparent lack of brakes for most of the brake

travel and then, when failed chamber is bottomed, the

pedal will harden.

HYDRAULIC BRAKE FLUID

Use GM Hydraulic Brake Fluid, Supreme No. 11 or

equivalent when servicing brakes. This brake fluid is

satisfactory for any climate and has all the qualities

necessary for proper operation, such as a high boiling

point to prevent vapor lock and the ability to remain

fluid at low temperatures.
In the event that improper fluid has entered the system,

it will be necessary to service the system as follows:

1.
Drain the entire system.

2.
Thoroughly flush the system with clean alcohol,

188
proof,
or a hydraulic system cleaning fluid

such as "Declene".

3.
Replace all rubber parts of the system, including

brake hoses.

4.
Refill the system.

5. Bleed the system.

BLEEDING HYDRAULIC SYSTEM

The hydraulic brake system must be bled whenever

any line has been disconnected or air has in some way

entered the system. A ''spongy" pedal feeling when the

brakes are applied may indicate presence of air in the

system. The system must be absolutely free of air at

all times. Bleeding should be done on the longest line

first; the proper sequence to follow is left rear, right

rear, right front, and left front (fig. 5). Bleeding of

brake system may be performed by one of two methods—

either pressure or manual.

PRESSURE
BLEEDING

1.
Clean all dirt from top of main cylinder and remove

cylinder cover and rubber diaphragm.

2.
Reduce fluid level in main cylinder until reservoirs

are approximately half full.

NOTE:
Make sure brake fluid in bleeder equip-

ment is at operating level and that the. equipment

is capable of exerting 30 to 50 lbs. hydraulic

pressure on the brake system.

3.
Install brake bleeder adapter J-22489 (fig. 6) on

main cylinder. Connect hose from bleeder equipment

to bleeder adapter and open release valve on bleeder

equipment.

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

BRAKES 5-4

RF

3

^ FRONT OF

~ VEHICLE

LF

4
RR

CZZZIZ3

2

LR

1

Fig.
5—Correct Bleeding Sequence

4.
Install brake bleeder wrench, Tool J-21472 on bleed-

er valve at wheel cylinder and install one end of

bleeder hose on bleeder valve (fig. 7).

5.
Pour a sufficient amount of brake fluid into a trans-

parent container to insure that end of bleeder hose

will remain submerged during bleeding. Place the

loose end of bleeder hose into the container. Be

sure the hose end is submerged in the fluid.

6. Open wheel cylinder bleeder valve by turning Tool

J-21472 counterclockwise approximately 1/3 of a

turn and observe flow of fluid at end of bleeder

hose.

7.
Close bleeder valve tightly as soon as bubbles stop

and brake fluid flows in a solid stream from the

bleeder hose.

8. Remove brake bleeder wrench and bleeder hose

from wheel cylinder bleeder valve.

9. Repeat Steps 4 through 8 on the remaining wheel

Cylinders in the correct bleeding sequence (fig. 5).

10.
Disconnect bleeder equipment from brake bleeder

adapter cover J-22489.

NOJE: The main cylinder on certain passenger

car models is tilted upward. When removing

the bleeder adapter on these models, place a

clean dry cloth behind and below the cylinder

to absorb any fluid spillage as the cover is

removed. v
Fig.
7—Bleeding Brakes Using Brake Bleeder

Wrench Tool J-21472

11.
adapter J-22489. Wipe all area

fluid was spilled during adapter

Fig.
6—Brake Bleeder Adapter Tool J-22489—Installed
Remove bleeder

dry of fluid if

removal.

12.
Fill master cylinder reservoirs to within 1/4" of

reservoir rims as shown in Figure 8.

13.
Install main cylinder diaphragm and cover.

MANUAL BLEEDING

1.
Clean all dirt from top of main cylinder and remove

cylinder cover and rubber diaphragm.

2.
Fill main cylinder reservoirs.

3.
Install brake bleeder wrench, Tool J-21472 on bleed-

er valve at wheel cylinder and install one end of

bleeder hose on bleeder valve (fig. 7).

4.
Pour a sufficient amount of brake fluid into a trans-

parent container to insure that end of bleeder hose

will remain submerged during bleeding. Place the

loose end of bleeder hose into the container. Be

sure the hose end is submerged in the fluid.

NOTE: Carefully monitor fluid level at main

cylinder during manual bleeding operations. Do

not bleed enough fluid at one time to drain the

reservoir completely. Replenish the reservoirs

with fluid while bleeding to insure a sufficient

amount of fluid is in the main cylinder at all

times.
To insure that outside air is not sucked

back into the hydraulic system, the bleeder

valve should be closed before the brake pedal

reaches the floor.

5.
Open wheel cylinder bleeder valve by turning Tool

J-21472 counterclockwise approximately 1/3 of a

turn. Slowly depress brake pedal. Just before brake

pedal reaches the end of its travel, close bleeder

valve and allow brake pedal to return slowly to the

fully released position. Repeat this procedure until

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

BRAKES 5-5

LEVEL CYLINDER

TILTED CYLINDER

Fig.
8—Correct Main Cylinder Fluid Level

expelled brake fluid flows in a solid stream from the

bleeder hose and no bubbles are present, then close

bleeder valve tightly.

6. Remove brake bleeder wrench and bleeder hose from

wheel cylinder bleeder valve.

7. Repeat Steps 2 through 7 on the remaining wheel

cylinders in the correct bleeding sequence (fig. 5).

8. Fill the main cylinder to the levels shown in

Figure 8.

9. Install main cylinder diaphragm and cover.

PUSH ROD TO MAIN CYLINDER CLEARANCE

The brake pedal has a definite stop which is permanent

and not adjustable. This stop consists of a rubber

bumper at the release end of pedal travel. Before

adjusting push rod to main cylinder clearance, make

sure pedal returns to the fully released position freely

and that the pedal retracting spring has hot lost its

tension, then proceed as follows:

1.
Loosen check nut on push rod.

2.
Turn push rod as required to provide correct ad-

justment. Movement of pedal pad before push rod

contacts main cylinder pistons must be 1/16" to

1/4" (fig. 9).

3.
Tighten check nut against clevis, and recheck

movement.

HYDRAULIC BRAKE LINES

Hydraulic Brake Hose

The flexible hoses which carry the hydraulic pressure

from the steel lines to the wheel cylinders are carefully

designed and constructed to withstand all conditions of

stress and twist which they encounter during normal

vehicle usage.
The hoses require no service other than periodic

inspection for damage from road hazards or other like

sources. Should damage occur and replacement become

necessary, the following procedure is to be followed.

Removal

1.
Separate hose from steel line by turning double

flare connector out of hose fitting.

2.
Remove "U" shaped retainer from hose fitting and

withdraw hose from support bracket.

3.
Turn hose fitting out of wheel cylinder inlet.

Replacement

1.
Install new copper gasket on cylinder end of hose

(male end).

2.
Moisten threads with brake fluid and install hose in

wheel cylinder inlet.

3.
With weight of car on wheels and suspension in

normal position (front wheels straight ahead) pass

female end of hose through support bracket, allowing

hose to seek its own position. Insert hex of hose

fitting into the 12 point hole in support bracket

in position which induces least twist to hose (figk 10).

NOTE:
Do not twist hose unduly during ^

operation as its natural curvature is absolutely

necessary to maintain proper hose-tot

suspension clearance through full movement o£

the suspension and steering parts.

4.
Install "U" shaped retainer to secure hose in sup-

port bracket.

5. Inspect by removing weight completely from wheel,

turn wheels from lock to lock while observing hose

position. Be sure that hose does not tough other

parts at any time during suspension or wheel travel.

If contact does occur, remove hose retainer and

rotate the female hose end in the support bracket

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

BRAKES 5-7

LATCH PLATE

DIE BLOCK

TUBE
UPSET FLARE PUNCH

RAM GUIDE

STOP PLATE

Fig.
13—Flaring Operation--Position ing Tubing

2.
Remove the tubing from the die block and deburr

the inside and outside edges.

3.
Install compression couplings on tubing and dip end

of tubing to be flared in hydraulic fluid. This lubri-

cation results in better formation of the flare.

4.
Place on-half of the die blocks in the tool body with

the counterbored ends toward the ram guide. Now

lay the tubing in the block with approximately 1/2"

protruding beyond the end.

Fit the other half of the block into the tool body,

close the latch plate and tighten the nuts "finger

tight".

5. Select the correct size upset flare punch. One end

of this punch is counterbored or hollowed out to

gauge the amount of tubing necessary to form a

double lap flare. Slip the punch into the tool body

with the gauge end toward the die blocks. Install the

ram; then tap lightly until the punch meets the die

, blocks and they are forced securely against the

stop plate (fig. 13).

6. Using the supplied wrench, draw the latch plate

nut down tight to prevent the tube from slipping.

Tightening the nuts alternately (beginning with the

nut at the closed hole in the plate) will prevent

distortion of the plate. Remove the punch and the

ram. Now reverse the punch and put it back into the

tool body. Install the ram and tap it lightly until

the face of the upset flare punch contacts the face

of the die blocks (fig. 14). This completes the

first operation. Remove the ram and the punch.

7. To complete the flare, insert the pointed finish

flare punch and the ram into the tool body. Tap

the ram until a good seat is formed (fig. 15).

NOTE:
The seat should be inspected at inter-

vals during the finishing operation to avoid

over-seating.

LATCH

DIE BLOCK

TUBE
UPSET FLARE PUNCH
RAM GUIDE

RAM
1ST OPERATION

UPSET FLARE

PUNCH
2ND OPERATION

FINISH FLARE

PUNCH

Fig.
15—Flaring Operation—First and Second Flare

BRAKE ADJUSTMENT

Service Brake

Although the brakes are self-adjusting, a preliminary

or initial adjustment may be necessary after the brakes

have been relined or replaced, or whenever the length

of the adjusting screw has been changed. The final

adjustment is made by using the self-adjusting feature.

1.
With brake drum off, disengage the actuator from

the star wheel and rotate the star wheel by spinning

or turning with a small screw driver.

2.
Recommended

a. Use special Tool J-21177; Drum-to-Brake Shoe

Clearance Gauge, to check the diameter of the

brake drum inner surface (fig. 16).

Fig.
14—Flaring Operation—First Flare
Fig.
16—Using Drum-to-Brake Shoe Clearance

Gauge Tool J-21177

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

BRAKES 5-8

Fig.
17—-Checking Brake Shoe Lining Clearance

Using Tool J-21177

b.
Turn the tool to the opposite side and fit over

the brake shoes by turning the star wheel, until

the gauge just slides over the linings (fig. 17).

c. Rotate the gauge around the brake shoe lining

surface to assure prpper clearance.

Alternate

a. Using the brake drum as an adjustment fixture

turn the star wheel until the drum slides over

the brake shoes with a slight drag.

b.
Turn the star wheel 1-1/4 turns to retract the

shoes.
This will allow sufficient lining-to-drum

clearance so final adjustment may be made as

described in Step 4.

3.
Install the drum and wheel.

NOTE: 1: If lanced area in brake drum is

knocked out, be sure all metal has been re-

moved from brake compartment. Install new

hole cover in drum to prevent contamination

of the brakes.

NOTE: 2: Make certain when installing drums

that drums are installed in the same position

as when removed with the drum locating tang

in line with the locating hole in the wheel hub

(fig. 18).

4.
Make final adjustment by making numerous forward

and reverse stops, applying brakes with a firm

pedal effort until a satisfactory brake pedal height

results.

NOTE: Frequent usage of an automatic trans-

mission forward range to halt reverse vehic;..$

motion may prevent the automatic adjuster.:?

from functioning, thereby inducing low pedal

heights.
Fig.
.18—Aligning Drum Tang with Wheel Hub

Parking Broke

The rear brake assemblies serve a dual purpose in

that they are utilized both as a hydraulically operated

service brake and also as a mechanically operated

parking brake. In view of this dual purpose, the service

brake must be properly adjusted as a base for parking

brake adjustment; conversely the parking brake must

be properly adjusted for the service brake to function

as intended.

Adjustment

1.
Jack up both rear wheels.

2.
Apply parking brake, two notches from fully re-

leased position.

3.
Loosen the equalizer forward check nut, and tighten

or loosen the rear nut until a light to moderate drag

is felt when rear wheels are rotated.

4.
Tighten check nuts securely.

5.
Fully release parking brake and rotate rear wheels;

no drag should be present.

Inspection

If complete release of the parking brake is not ob-

tained, unless it is forcibly returned to its released

position, or if application effort is high, check parking

brake assembly for free operation. If operation is sticky

or a bind is experienced, correct as follows:

1.
Clean and lubricate brake cables and equalizer.

2.
Inspect brake assembly for straightness and align-

ment (replace if necessary).

3.
Clean and lubricate parking brake assembly.

4.
Check routing of cables for kinks or binding.

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL