torque CHEVROLET CAMARO 1982 Repair Guide
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: CHEVROLET, Model Year: 1982, Model line: CAMARO, Model: CHEVROLET CAMARO 1982Pages: 875, PDF Size: 88.64 MB
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GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 422
4. Drain the engine oil.
CAUTION
- Be sure that the catalytic c onverter is cool before proceeding.
5. Remove the air injection pipe at t he catalytic converter, if applicable.
6. Remove the catalytic converte r hanger bolts. Disconnect the exhaust
pipe at the manifold.
7. Remove the starter bolts, loosen t he starter brace, then lay the starter
aside.
8. Remove the front engine mount through-bolts.
9. Raise the engine enough to provide sufficient clearance for oil pan
removal.
10. Remove the oil pan bolts.
If the front crankshaft throw prohibits remo val of the pan, turn the crankshaft to
position the throw horizontally.
11. Remove the oil pan from the vehicle.
12. Remove the old RTV sealant or gasket from the oil pan and engine
block.
To install: 13. Run a
1/8 in. (3mm) bead of RTV around the oil pan sealing surface or
install a new gasket. Remember to keep the RTV on the INSIDE of the
bolt holes.
14. Install the pan and pan bolts. Torque the pan bolts to:
• 2.8L & 3.1L V6 (M6 x 1 X 16.0 bolts): 6-9 ft. lbs. (8-12 Nm)
• 2.8L & 3.1L V6 (M8 x 1.25 x 14.0 bolts ): 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm)
• 1982-84 V8 engine (5/16-18 bolts): 165 inch lbs. (10 Nm)
• 1982-84 V8 engine (1/4-20 bolts): 80 inch lbs. (8 Nm)
• 1985 V8 engine (5/16-18 x 1.44 studs): minimum of 10 inch lbs.
• 1985 V8 engine (stud nuts): 150- 180 inch lbs. (17-20 Nm)
• 1985 V8 engine (1/4-20 x 0.56 bolts): 72-90 inch lbs. (8-10 Nm)
• 1985 V8 engine (1/4-20 x 0.50 x 0.56 studs): 72-90 inch lbs. (8-10
Nm)
• 1986-92 V8 engine (stud nuts): 150-250 inch lbs. (17-28 Nm)
• 1986-92 V8 engine (1/4-20 x 0.56 bolts): 72-130 inch lbs. (8-14
Nm)
• 1986-92 V8 engine (1/4-20 x 0.50 x 0.56 studs ): 72-130 inch lbs.
(8-14 Nm)
15. Lower the engine and install t he front engine mount through-bolts.
Torque bolts to 48 ft. lbs. (65 Nm).
16. Install the starter and starter brace, then secure using starter bolts.
17. Connect the exhaust pipe at the manifo ld. Install the catalytic converter
hanger bolts.
18. Install the air injection pipe at the catalytic converter.
19. Lower the vehicle.
20. Install the fan shroud assembly . Install the distributor cap.
21. Connect the negative battery cable at the battery and air cleaner.
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11. Clean all old RTV from the mating surfaces.
12. Install the rear gasket into the
rear main bearing cap and apply a small
amount of RTV where the gasket engages into the engine block.
13. Install the front gasket.
14. Install the side gaskets, using grease as a retainer. Apply a small amount
of RTV where the side gaskets meet the front gasket.
15. Install the oil pan.
Install the oil pan-to-timing cover bolts la st, as these holes will not align until the
other pan bolts are snug.
16. Torque the pan bolts to 53 inch lbs. (6 Nm) for 1982-1985 models and 90
inch lbs. (10 Nm) for 1986 models.
17. Lower the engine and install the fr ont mount through-bolts. Torque bolts
to 48 ft lbs. (65 Nm).
18. Install the flywheel dust cover.
19. Install the starter assembly.
20. Connect the exhaust pipe at the manifold.
21. Tighten the exhaust pipe hanger bracket.
22. Lower the vehicle.
23. Connect the negative battery cable at the battery.
24. Fill the engine with engine oil and start engine. Check for leaks.
OIL PUMP
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Fig. 1: Oil pump - V8
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1. Drain and remove the oil pan.
CAUTION - The EPA warns that prolonged contact with used engine oil may
cause a number of skin disorders, incl uding cancer! You should make every
effort to minimize your exposure to used engine oil. Pr otective gloves should be
worn when changing the oil. Wash y our hands and any other exposed skin
areas as soon as possible after exposure to used engine oil. Soap and water, or
waterless hand cleaner should be used.
2. Remove the oil pump-to-rear main bearing cap bolt. Remove the pump
and the extension shaft.
3. Remove the cotter pin, spring and pressure regulator valve.
Place your thumb over the pressure r egulators bore before removing the cotter
pin, as the spring is under pressure.
To install: 4. Assemble pump and extension shaft to rear main bearing cap, aligning
slot on top end of extension shaft with drive tang on lower end of
distributor driveshaft.
When assembling the driveshaft extensi on to the driveshaft, the end of the
extension nearest the washers must be inserted into the driveshaft.
5. Insert the driveshaft extension through the opening in the main bearing
cap and block until the shaft mates in to the distributor drive gear.
6. Install the pump onto t he rear main bearing cap and install the attaching
bolts. Torque the bolts to specifications:
• L4 engines: 22 ft lbs. (30 Nm)
• V6 engines: 25-35 ft lbs. (35-47 Nm)
• V8 engines: 65 ft lbs. (88 Nm)
7. Install the oil pan and fill t he crankcase with engine oil.
CRANKSHAFT DAMPER
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
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1. Disconnect the battery ground c
able. Drain the cooling system.
2. Remove the fan shroud or the upper radiator support and drive belts.
Remove the fan and pulley from the water pump.
3. Remove the alternator upper and lower brackets, air brace with brackets,
and power steering lower bra cket (move it aside).
4. Remove the radiator lower hose and the heater hose from the water
pump. Remove the water pump bolts and the water pump.
5. If A/C equipped, remove the comp ressor and move aside. Remove the
compressor mounting bracket.
6. Remove the damper pulley retain ing bolt and the damper pulley.
7. Remove the timing gear cover bolts and the timing gear cover.
With the timing gear cover removed, use a large screwdriver to pry the oil seal
from the cover. To install the new oil se al, lubricate it with engine oil and drive it
into place.
To install: 8. Prepare the mating surfaces for reinst allation of the timing gear cover.
Coat the new gasket with RTV sealer.
9. Install the timing gear cover and timing gear cover bolts. Torque the
cover bolts to specifications:
• V6 engines (M8 x 1.25 bolts): 13-22 ft. lbs. (18-30 Nm)
• V6 engines (M10 x 1.5 bolts): 20-35 ft. lbs. (27-48 Nm)
• V8 engines (all bolts): 69-130 inch lbs. (8-14 Nm)
10. Install the damper pulley by pulli ng the damper onto the crankshaft. Use
tool J-23523 or equivalent. Install t he damper pulley retaining bolt and
torque bolts to 67-85 ft lbs. (90-110 Nm).
11. If A/C equipped, install the compressor mounting bracket and
compressor.
12. Install the water pump and the water pump bolts.
13. Install the radiator lower hose and the heater hose to the water pump.
14. Install the alternator upper and lower brackets, air brace with brackets
and the power steering lower bracket.
15. Install the fan and pull ey to the water pump. Inst all the fan shroud or the
upper radiator support and drive belts and adjust.
16. Connect the battery ground cable.
17. Fill the cooling syst em, start the engine and check for leaks.
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4. Use a new front oil pan gasket, cut
the tabs from the gasket. Replace the
crankshaft oil seal.
5. Place RTV sealer in the corners of the new oil pan gasket and the new
timing gear cover gasket.
6. Install the front cove r and install the oil pan-to -front cover screws and the
front cover-to-block screws. Torque scr ews to 90 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
7. Install the hub and pulle ys onto the crankshaft. Install the hub center bolt
and torque to 162 ft lbs. (220 Nm).
8. Install the drive belts and adjust.
TIMING GEAR COVER OIL SEAL REPLACEMENT
Fig. 5: Installing the oil seal with the cover installed
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Fig. 3: One-piece seal installation
1. Jack up your vehicle and support it with jackstands.
2. Remove the transmission.
3. If equipped with a manual transmission, remove the clutch and pressure
plate.
4. Remove the flywheel assembly.
5. Using a suitable tool, pry the old seal out.
6. Inspect the crankshaft for nicks or burrs, correct as required.
To install: 7. Clean the area and coat the seal with eng ine oil. Install the seal onto tool
J-34686 or equivalent. Install the seal into the engine.
8. Install the flywheel and torque to specification.
9. Install the transmission. (If equipped with a manual transmission, install
the clutch and pressure plate first.)
10. Check the fluid levels, star t the engine and check for leaks.
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Fig. 7: Fabricated s eal installation tool
Both halves of the rear main oil s eal can be replaced without removing the
crankshaft. Always replace the upper and lower seal together. The lip should
face the front of the engine. Be very ca reful that you do not break the sealing
bead in the channel on the out side portion of the seal while installing it. An
installation tool can be fabricat ed to protect the seal bead.
1. Remove the oil pan, oil pump and rear main bearing cap.
2. Remove the oil seal from the bearing cap by prying it out.
3. Remove the upper half of the seal wit h a small punch. Drive it around far
enough to be gripped with pliers.
4. Clean the crankshaft and bearing cap.
5. Coat the lips and bead of the seal with light engine oil, keeping oil from
the ends of the seal.
6. Position the fabricated tool bet ween the crankshaft and seal seat.
7. Position the seal between the cranks haft and tip of the tool so that the
seal bead contacts the ti p of the tool. The oil seal lip should face the
FRONT of the engine.
8. Roll the seal around the crankshaft us ing the tool to protect the seal bead
from the sharp corner s of the crankcase.
9. The installation tool should be le ft installed until the seal is properly
positioned with both ends fl ush with the block.
10. Remove the tool.
11. Install the other half of the seal in the bearing cap using the tool in the
same manner as before. Light thumb pressure should install the seal.
12. Install the bearing cap with sealant applied to the mating areas of the cap
and block. Keep sealant from the ends of the seal.
13. Torque the rear main bear ing cap to specifications.
14. Install the oil pump and oil pan.
15. Fill the engine with engine oil, st art the engine and check for leaks.
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2. Drain the engine oil and remove the oil pan.
3. Remove the rear main bearing cap.
4. Insert packing tool J-29114-2 or equi
valent, against 1 end of the seal in
the cylinder block. Drive the old seal gently into the groove until it is
packed tight. This will vary from
1/4 in. (6mm) to 3/4 in. (19mm) depending
on the amount of pack required.
5. Repeat the procedure on t he other end of the seal.
6. Measure the amount the seal wa s driven up on one side and add
1/16 in.
(1.6mm). Using a suitable cutting tool, cut that length from the old seal
removed from the rear main beari ng cap. Repeat the procedure for the
other side. Use the rear main bear ing cap as a holding fixture when
cutting the seal.
7. Install guide tool J-29114-1 or equi valent, onto the cylinder block.
8. Using the packing tool, work the shor t pieces cut in Step 6 into the guide
tool and then pack into the cylinder block. The guide tool and packing
tool are machined to provide a built in stop. Use this procedure for both
sides. It may help to use oil on the short pieces of the rope seal when \
packing them into the cylinder block.
9. Remove the guide tool.
10. Apply Loctite® 414 or equivalent, to the seal groove in the rear main
bearing cap. Within 1 minute, insert a new seal into the groove and push
into place with tool J-29590 until the seal is flush with the block. Cut the
excess seal material with a sharp cu tting tool at the bearing cap parting
line.
11. Apply a thin film of chassis grease to the rope se al. Apply a thin film of
RTV sealant on the bearing cap mati ng surface around the seal groove.
Use the sealer sparingly.
12. Plastigage® the rear main bea ring cap as outlined in MEASURING
REAR MAIN CLEARANCE in this section and check with specification. If
out of specification, check for fr ying of the rope seal which may be
causing the cap to not seat properly.
13. Install all remaining com ponents and inspect for leaks.
FLYWHEEL AND RING GEAR
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
The ring gear is an integral part of the flywheel and is not replaceable.
1. Remove the transmission.
2. Remove the six bolts attaching t he flywheel to the crankshaft flange.
Remove the flywheel.
3. Inspect the flywheel for cracks, and inspect the ring gear for burrs or
worn teeth. Replace the flywheel if any damage is apparent. Remove
burrs with a mill file.
4. Install the flywheel. Th e flywheel will only attach to the crankshaft in one
position, as the bolt holes are unevenly spaced. Install the bolts and
torque to specification. Tighten bolts in crisscross pattern.
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then you have wrist pin bushings in the rods. There should not be any
excessive play between the wrist pin
and the rod bushing. Normal clearance for
the wrist pin is approx. 0.001-0.002 in. (0.025mm-0.051mm).
Fig. 4: Measure the piston's outer diam eter, perpendicular to the wrist pin, with
a micrometer
Use a micrometer and measure the diamet er of the piston, perpendicular to the
wrist pin, on the skirt. Com pare the reading to its original cylinder measurement
obtained earlier. The diffe rence between the two readings is the piston-to-wall
clearance. If the clearance is within specif ications, the piston may be used as is.
If the piston is out of specification, but the bore is not, you will need a new
piston. If both are out of specificati on, you will need the cylinder rebored and
oversize pistons installed. Generally if two or more pistons/bores are out of
specification, it is best to rebore the entire block and purchase a complete set of
oversize pistons.
CONNECTING ROD
You should have the connecting rod chec ked for straightness at a machine
shop. If the connecting rod is bent, it will unevenly wear the bearing and piston,
as well as place greater stress on these components. Any bent or twisted
connecting rods must be replaced. If the rods are straight and the wrist pin
clearance is within specifications, t hen only the bearing end of the rod need be
checked. Place the connecting rod into a vi ce, with the bearing inserts in place,
install the cap to the rod and torque t he fasteners to specifications. Use a
telescoping gauge and carefully measure t he inside diameter of the bearings.
Compare this reading to the rods or iginal crankshaft journal diameter
measurement. The difference is the oil clearance. If the oil clearance is not
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Fig. 7: Apply a strip of gauging material to the bearing journal, then install and
torque the cap