torque CHEVROLET DYNASTY 1993 Service Manual

(b) Manually lift the window upward with the
unriveted flex drive electric regulator still attached
until the screw can be removed. If more access is
needed, remove the two screws that hold the
T-track to the motor gearbox. This will allow re-
moval of the motor from the T-track.
(5) Remove two screws that fasten the motor gear-
box to the metal T-track. (6) Perform bench test.
BENCH TEST
(1) Connect positive (+) lead from test battery to
either of the two motor terminals. (2) Connect negative (-) lead from test battery to
remaining motor terminal. (3) The motor will now rotate in one direction.
(4) Reverse the battery leads and the motor should
now rotate in the opposite direction. (5) If the motor does not rotate in both directions,
replace the motor.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install new motor on T-track using No. 8-32 X
1/2 screws tighten to 4 N Im (40 in. lbs.) torque.
(2) Feed top of T- track into access hole and point
and rotate it towards the hinge pillar until regulator
motor is approximately horizontal. Then rotate regu-
lator in the opposite direction about a 1/4 turn and
line up bracket tab to inner panel slot. (3) Fasten regulator with the rivet sequence shown
in (Figs. 10 and 11). (4) Actuate the motor until the flex rack is visible
within the access slot. Attach the window and drive arm assembly to the flex rack with the screws.
Tighten screws to 4 N Im (40 in. lbs.) torque.
POWER WINDOW CABLE HOUSING/MOTOR
REPLACEMENTÐAC and AY Bodies
WARNING: REMOVAL OF THE WINDOW LIFT MO-
TOR FROM THE REGULATOR WILL CAUSE THE
ASSIST SPRING TO UNWIND RAPIDLY WITH THE
POTENTIAL OF CAUSING PHYSICAL INJURY. IF
THE WINDOW LIFT MOTOR REQUIRES REPLACE-
MENT, SEE REGULATOR REPLACE CABLE AND
DRUM IN THIS GROUP OF THIS MANUAL.
(1) Remove front door trim panel. Refer to group
23, Body. (2) Disconnect window lift plate from glass (Fig.
15).
(3) Disconnect window track from door.
(4) Disconnect window lift motor and drive cables.
(5) Disconnect electrical connections.
(6) Carefully remove window track, cables and lift
motor assembly from door. (7) For installation reverse above procedures.
MOTOR REPLACEMENT
(1) Refer to Front Door Window Regulator for re-
moval. (2) The door glass must be in the down position.
(3) Tape glass to door frame to hold glass in the up
position. (4) If the window is not in the full up position, re-
move only the motor from the door. (5) Remove nuts from motor and cable housing
(Fig. 16). (6) Make sure motor is facing you before separat-
ing motor from housing. (7) Using a flat tool slowly separate motor from
housing, making sure the cable drum under the mo-
tor stays in cable housing. When motor is fully sep-
arated the assist spring will be completely unwound
(Fig. 17). (8) Remove assist spring by releasing the tabs on
the opposite sides of the spring, do not remove spring
from its case (Fig. 18).
Fig. 14 Rear Door Power WindowÐAP Body
ART: 928s-3; SIZE (1) = 1-3/4h x 3-1/2w
Fig. 15 Cable and Housing/Motor
Ä POWER WINDOWS 8S - 7

INSTALLATION
(1) Install motor into housing with one stud and in
center of housing to secure motor to housing. (2) Before installing new spring, power the motor
into the full-up position. (3) Replace assist spring on cable housing. Wind
spring counter clockwise 3 1/2 turns on the left door.
The right door, wind spring clockwise 3 1/2 turns
(Fig. 19).
(4) Install the other two studs and nuts and
tighten to 4 to 5 M Im (35 to 45 in. lbs.) torque.
(5) Inspect that cables are not twisted prior to in-
stalling motor and housing into door.
QUARTER WINDOW REPLACEMENTÐAJ BODY
For steps (1) through (5) refer to Group 23, Body,
for complete procedures. (1) Remove the folding top sling well assembly.
(2) Remove the quarter trim upper moldings.
(3) Remove the cowl trim and scuff plate panels.
(4) Remove the rear seat cushion.
(5) Remove the quarter trim and rear seat back as-
sembly. (6) Remove quarter windows assembly (Fig. 20).
Fig. 16 Separating Motor from Housing
Fig. 17 Cable/Drum and Motor
Fig. 18 Assist Spring Cover
Fig. 19 Wind Assist Spring Cover
Fig. 20 Power Quarter WindowÐAJ Body
8S - 8 POWER WINDOWS Ä

(a) Position window approximately one-third the
way up. (b) Remove glass stabilizer.
(c) Disconnect window motor wiring.
(d) Remove three quarter window assembly at-
taching screws and lift window assembly out of ve-
hicle.
(7) For installation reverse above procedure. Refer
to Group 23, Body, for window glass adjustment.
QUARTER WINDOW MOTOR REPLACEMENTÐAJ
BODY
(1) Remove window assembly from car and have
window in mid position (halfway up). (2) Remove No. 1 and No. 2 lower motor mounting
screws (Fig. 21) and loosen No. 3 to allow the motor
to pivot around the third screw. This will allow easy
removal of the glass and lift plate assembly and also
allow some tension to be relieved from the cables.
(3) Remove the mounting nuts on the lift plate and
remove the glass and lift plate assembly. (4) Remove motor from regulator plate. (5) Remove cover plate on cable drum housing
(Fig. 22).
CAUTION: Cable drum may pop up and out of hous-
ing due to residual tension remaining on cables.
(6) Pull drum out of the motor housing. Remove
cables from drum, paying very close attention to the
cable routing on the drum. (7) Inspect the cables for signs of wear. If neces-
sary, replace the cables with Mopar Cable Replace-
ment Package. (8) Rewind cables on new cable drum.
(9) Dab grease on internal motor shocks. Place in
drum and install drum into the new housing. (10) Install housing cover plate.
(11) Mount motor on regulator plate by inserting a
guide pin through No. 3 motor mount screw hole and
pivot motor around this point. Install No. 1 mounting
screw and bushing. Replace remaining screws and
bushings and tighten to 2 N Im (20 in. lbs.) torque.
(12) Lubricate with grease the areas of guide rail
where cable and glider assembly travel. (13) Run assembly up and down to verify correct
cable routing. (14) Loosen motor mounting screws to allow reas-
sembly of lift plate onto regulator. Tighten lift plate
nuts to 5 N Im (50 in. lbs.) torque. Tighten motor
mounting screws to 2 N Im (20 in. lbs.) torque.
Fig. 21 Quarter Window Lift MechanismÐAJ Body
Fig. 22 Cable Drum and Lift CableÐAJ Body
Ä POWER WINDOWS 8S - 9

ENGINE
CONTENTS
page page
2.2/2.5L ENGINES ....................... 8
3.0L ENGINE .......................... 66 3.3/3.8L ENGINE
....................... 98
STANDARD SERVICE PROCEDURES ......... 1
STANDARD SERVICE PROCEDURES INDEX
page page
Crankshaft Sprocket Bolt Access Plug .......... 2
Engine Performance ....................... 2
Form-In-Place Gaskets ..................... 1
Honing Cylinder Bores ..................... 2
Hydrostatic Locked Engine .................. 5 Lash Adjuster (Tappet) Noise Diagnosis
........ 4
Measuring Main Bearing Clearance and Connecting Rod Bearing Clearance ................... 3
Repair of Damaged or Worn Threads .......... 4
FORM-IN-PLACE GASKETS
There are numerous places where form-in-place
gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken
when applying form-in-place gaskets to assure ob-
taining the desired results. Bead size, continuity, and
location are of great importance. Too thin a bead can
result in leakage while too much can result in spill-
over which can break off and obstruct fluid feed
lines. A continuous bead of the proper width is essen-
tial to obtain a leak-free joint. Two types of form-in-place gasket materials are
used in the engine area. Mopar Silicone Rubber Ad-
hesive Sealant and anaerobic gasket materials, each
have different properties and cannot be used inter-
changeably.
MOPAR SILICONE RUBBER ADHESIVE SEALANT
Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant or equiv-
alent, normally black in color, is available in three
ounce tubes. Moisture in the air causes the Mopar
Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant material to cure.
This material is normally used on flexible metal
flanges. It has a shelf life of one year and will not
properly cure if over age. Always inspect the package
for the expiration date before use.
MOPAR GASKET MAKER
MOPAR Gasket Maker is an anaerobic type gasket
material normally red in color. The material cures in
the absence of air when squeezed between two metal-
lic surfaces. It will not cure if left in the uncovered tube. It is normally red in color. The anaerobic ma-
terial is for use between two machined surfaces. Do
not used on flexible metal flanges.
GASKET DISASSEMBLY
Parts assembled with form-in-place gaskets may be
disassembled without unusual effort. In some in-
stances, it may be necessary to lightly tap the part
with a mallet or other suitable tool to break the seal
between the mating surfaces. A flat gasket scraper
may also be lightly tapped into the joint but care
must be taken not to damage the mating surfaces.
SURFACE PREPARATION
Scrape clean or wire brush all gasket surfaces re-
moving all loose material. Inspect stamped parts to
assure gasket rails are flat. Flatten rails with a ham-
mer on a flat plate if required. Gasket surfaces must
be free of oil and dirt. Make sure old gasket material
is removed from blind attaching holes.
FORM-IN-PLACE GASKET APPLICATION
Assembling parts using a form-in-place gasket re-
quires care but it's easier then using precut gaskets. MOPAR Gasket Maker material should be applied
sparingly 1mm(0.040 inch.) diameter or less of seal-
ant to one gasket surface. Be certain the material
surrounds each mounting hole. Excess material can
easily be wiped off. Components should be torqued in
place within 15 minutes. The use of a locating dowel
is recommended during assembly to prevent smear-
ing the material off location.
Ä ENGINE 9 - 1

The MOPAR Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant
gasket material or equivalent should be applied in a
continuous bead approximately 3mm (0.120 inch) in
diameter. All mounting holes must be circled. For
corner sealing, a 3.17 or 6.35 mm (1/8 or 1/4 inch.)
drop is placed in the center of the gasket contact
area. Uncured sealant may be removed with a shop
towels. Components should be torqued in place while
the sealant is still wet to the touch (within 10 min-
utes). The usage of a locating dowel is recommended
during assembly to prevent smearing of material off
location.
CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET BOLT ACCESS PLUG
An Access plug is located in the right inner fender
shield. Remove the plug and insert proper size
socket, extension and rachet, when crankshaft rota-
tion is necessary.
ENGINE PERFORMANCE
If a loss of performance is noticed, ignition timing
should be checked. If ignition timing is retarded by
9, 18 or 27É indicating 1, 2 or 3 (timing belt or chain)
teeth may have skipped, then, camshaft and acces-
sory shaft timing with the crankshaft should be
checked. Refer to Engine Timing Sprockets and Oil
Seals of the Engine Section. To provide best vehicle performance and lowest ve-
hicle emissions, it is most important that the tune-up
be done accurately. Use the specifications listed on
the Vehicle Emission Control Information label
found in the engine compartment. (1) Test cranking amperage draw. See Starting
Motor Cranking Amperage Draw Electrical Section
of this manual. (2) Tighten the intake manifold bolts to specifica-
tions. (3) Perform cylinder compression test.(a) Check engine oil level and add oil if neces-
sary. (b) Drive the vehicle until engine reaches normal
operating temperature. (c) Select a route free from traffic and other
forms of congestion, observe all traffic laws, and ac-
celerate through the gears several times briskly.
CAUTION: Do not overspeed the engine. The higher
engine speed may help clean out valve seat deposits
which can prevent accurate compression readings.
(d) Remove all spark plugs from engine. As
spark plugs are being removed, check electrodes for
abnormal firing indicators fouled, hot, oily, etc.
Record cylinder number of spark plug for future
reference. (e) Disconnect coil wire from distributor and se-
cure to good ground to prevent a spark from start- ing a fire (Conventional Ignition System). For Direct
Ignition System DIS disconnect the coil connector. (f) Be sure throttle blade is fully open during the
compression check. (g) Insert compression gage adaptor into the #1
spark plug hole in cylinder head. Crank engine until
maximum pressure is reached on gage. Record this
pressure as #1 cylinder pressure. (h) Repeat Step G for all remaining cylinders.
(i) Compression should not be less than (689kPa)
100 psi and not vary more than 25 percent from
cylinder to cylinder. (j) If one or more cylinders have abnormally low
compression pressures, repeat steps 3b through 3h. (k) If the same cylinder or cylinders repeat an
abnormally low reading on the second compression
test, it could indicate the existence of a problem in
the cylinder in question.
The recommended compression pressures are
to be used only as a guide to diagnosing engine
problems. An engine should not be disassembled
to determine the cause of low compression un-
less some malfunction is present. (4) Clean or replace spark plugs as necessary and
adjust gap as specified in Electrical Group 8. Tighten to
specifications. (5) Test resistance of spark plug cables. Refer to
Ignition System Secondary Circuit Inspection Electri-
cal Section Group 8. (6) Inspect the primary wire. Test coil output volt-
age, primary and secondary resistance. Replace parts
as necessary. Refer to Ignition System and make nec-
essary adjustment. (7) Ignition timing should be set to specifications.
(See Specification Label in engine compartment). (8) Test fuel pump for pressure and vacuum. Refer to
Fuel System Group 14, Specifications. (9) The air filter elements should be replaced as
specified in Lubrication and Maintenance, Group 0. (10) Inspect crankcase ventilation system as out
lined in Lubrication and Maintenance, Group 0. For
emission controls see Emission Controls Group 25 for
service procedures. (11) Inspect and adjust accessory belt drives refer-
ring to Accessory Belt Drive in Cooling System, Group
7 for proper adjustments. (12) Road test vehicle as a final test.
HONING CYLINDER BORES
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels
under the bores, over the crankshaft to keep abrasive
materials from entering crankcase area. (1) Used carefully, the cylinder bore resizing hone
C-823 equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool for
this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce taper
and out-of-round as well as removing light
9 - 2 ENGINE Ä

REMOVE ALL SHIMS BEFORE REASSEM-
BLING ENGINE ALTERNATIVE METHOD Ð With the weight of
the crankshaft being supported by a jack under the
counterweight adjacent to the bearing being checked. (3) Place a piece of Plastigage across the entire
width of the bearing shell in the cap approximately
6.35 mm (1/4 inch) off center and away from the oil
holes (Fig. 2). (In addition, suspect areas can be
checked by placing the Plastigage in the suspect area).
Torque the bearing cap bolts of the bearing being
checked to the proper specifications. (4) Remove the bearing cap and compare the width
of the flattened Plastigage (Fig. 3) with the metric scale
provided on the package. Locate the band closest to the
same width. This band shows the amount of clearance
in thousandths of a millimeter. Differences in readings
between the ends indicate the amount of taper present.
Record all readings taken. Refer to Engine Specifica-
tions. Plastic-Gage generally is accompanied by
two scales. One scale is in inches, the other is a
metric scale. (5) Plastigage is available in a variety of clearance
ranges. The 0.025-0.076mm (.001-.003 inch) is usually
the most appropriate for checking engine bearing
proper specifications.
CONNECTING ROD BEARING CLEARANCE
Engine crankshaft bearing clearances can be deter-
mined by use of Plastigage or equivalent. The following
is the recommended procedure for the use of Plasti-
gage: (1) Rotate the crankshaft until the connecting rod to
be checked is at the bottom of its stroke. (2) Remove oil film from surface to be checked.
Plastigage is soluble in oil. (3) Place a piece of Plastigage across the entire
width of the bearing shell in the bearing cap approxi-
mately 6.35 mm (1/4 inch.) off center and away from
the oil hole (Fig. 2). In addition, suspect areas can be
checked by placing plastigage in the suspect area. (4) Before assembling the rod cap with Plastigage in
place, the crankshaft must be rotated until the con-
necting being checked starts moving toward the top of
the engine. Only then should the cap be assembled and
torqued to specifications. Do not rotate the crank-
shaft while assembling the cap or the Plastigage
may be smeared, giving inaccurate results. (5) Remove the bearing cap and compare the width
of the flattened Plastigage (Fig. 3) with the metric
scale provided on the package. Locate the band closest
to the same width. This band shows the amount
of clearance in thousandths of a millimeter. Differences
in readings between the ends indicate the amount
of taper present. Record all readings taken.
Refer to Engine Specifications. Plastigage generally is accompanied by two scales. One scale is in
inches, the other is a metric scale. (6) Plastigage is available in a variety of clearance
ranges. The 0.025-0.076mm (.001-.003 inch) is usually
the most appropriate for checking engine bearing
proper specifications.
LASH ADJUSTER (TAPPET) NOISE DIAGNOSIS
A tappet-like noise may be produced from several
items. Check the following items. (1) Engine oil level too high or too low. This may
cause aerated oil to enter the adjusters and cause them
to be spongy. (2) Insufficient running time after rebuilding cylin-
der head. Low speed running up to 1 hour may be
required. During this time, turn engine off and let set for a few
minutes before restarting. Repeat this several times
after engine has reached normal operating tempera-
ture. (3) Low oil pressure.
(4) The oil restrictor pressed into the vertical oil
passage to the cylinder head of Balance Shaft Engines
Only is plugged with debris. (5) Air ingested into oil due to broken or cracked oil
pump pick up. (6) Worn valve guides.
(7) Rocker arm ears contacting valve spring retainer
(2.2/2.5L engines). (8) Rocker arm loose, adjuster or tappet stuck or at
maximum extension and still leaves lash in the system. (9) Faulty lash adjuster or tappet.(a) Check for sponginess while still installed in
engine. Depress part of rocker arm just over adjuster
or pushrod . Normal adjusters should feel very firm.
Spongy adjusters can be depressed to the bottomed
position easily. (b) Remove suspected lash adjuster or tappet, pry
off retainer cap or snap ring and disassemble. Do
not reuse retainer caps . Do not interchange parts
and make sure that care and cleanliness is exercised
in the handling of parts. (c) Clean out dirt and varnish with solvent.
(d) Reassemble with engine oil.
(e) Check for sponginess.
(f) If still spongy, replace with new adjuster.
REPAIR OF DAMAGED OR WORN THREADS
Damaged or worn threads (including aluminum head
spark plug threads) can be repaired. Essentially, this
repair consists of drilling out worn or damaged
threads, tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil (or
equivalent) Tap, and installing an insert into the
tapped hole. This brings the hole back to its original
thread size.
9 - 4 ENGINE Ä

shaft end play. A sintered iron (TBI engine and steel
billet Turbo III engines) timing belt sprocket is
mounted on the cam nose, and a hydrodynamic oil
seal is used for oil control at the front of the cam-
shaft. ACCESSORY SHAFT: The iron accessory shaft
has two bearing journals and is housed in the for-
ward facing side of the block. A hydrodynamic seal,
installed in an aluminum housing attached to the
block, provides retention, shaft thrust, and oil con-
trol. The accessory shaft is driven by the timing belt
through a sintered iron (TBI engine and steel billet
Turbo III engines) sprocket mounted on the nose of
the accessory shaft. The accessory shaft in turn
drives the oil pump and distributor on 2.2/2.5L and
2.5L FFV and the oil pump only on Turbo III. VALVES: The valves are actuated by roller cam
followers which pivot on stationary hydraulic lash
adjusters. The valve train with 40.6 mm (1.60 inch)
diameter intake valves and 35.4 mm (1.39 inch) di-
ameter exhaust valves employ viton rubber valve
stem seals except 2.5L FFv . the 2.5L FFV valve
stem seals are made of special rubber compound
which resist the deteriorating effects of methanol
fuel by-products that enter the oil during combus-
tion. Valve springs, spring retainers, and locks are
conventional. For Turbo III engines the valves are
actuated by roller tipped rocker arms with hydraulic
lash adjusters which pivot on a shaft. The valve train
with 33.88 mm (1.33 in.) diameter intake valves are
arranged in line opposite of the 29.26 mm (1.15 in.)
diameter exhaust valves employ locking valve stem
seals. Valve springs, spring retainers, and locks are
not interchangeable with other engines. BALANCE SHAFTS: 2.2 Turbo III and 2.5L en-
gines are equipped with two counter rotating balance
shafts installed in a carrier attached to the lower
crankcase. The shafts are interconnect through
gears. These gears are driven by a short chain from
the crankshaft, to rotate at two times crankshaft
speed. This counterbalances certain engine recipro-
cating forces. INTAKE MANIFOLDS:
All intake manifolds are
aluminum castings, attached to the cylinder head
with eight bolts. N.A. engines use a four branch de-
sign. This long branch fan design enhances low and
midspeed torque. It also features an integrally cast
water crossover passage to warm incoming fuel/air
mixture, plus an EGR mounting boss and PCV inlet. The Turbo III engine intake manifold is a log type
with tuned runners. The manifold is machined to ac-
cept fuel injectors near the ports of each cylinder. EXHAUST MANIFOLDS: The exhaust manifolds
are made of nodular cast iron for strength and high
temperatures. All naturally aspirated (N.A.) and tur-
bocharged engines exit exhaust gasses through a ma-
chined, articulated joint connection to the exhaust
pipe. 2.2/2.5L and 2.5L FFV manifolds intermesh
with the intake manifold at the cylinder head. N.A. engines use a four branch design with cylin-
ders one and four joined and cylinder two and three
joined to exit at the outlet. The Turbo III engine exhaust manifold also carries
the turbocharger. This manifold has a modified log
type collector with exhaust gasses directed to and
through the turbocharger to exit the conical (articu-
lated joint) outlet machined into the turbocharger ex-
haust elbow. ENGINE LUBRICATION: Refer to Group 0 Lu-
brication and Maintenance for recommended oil to be
used in various engine application. System is full
flow filtration, pressure feed type. The oil pump is
mounted within the crankcase and driven by the ac-
cessory shaft. Pressurized oil is then routed through
the main oil gallery, running the length of the cylin-
der block, supplying main and rod bearings with fur-
ther routing (for 2.2L turbo III and 2.5L engines) to
the lower balance shaft assemblies. Pistons are lubri-
cated from directed holes in the connecting rod as-
semblies. Camshaft and valve mechanisms are
lubricated from a full-length cylinder head oil gallery
supplied from the crankcase main oil gallery.
9 - 10 2.2/2.5L ENGINE Ä

² Drive shaft distress: See Driveshafts in Suspension,
Group 2.
² Any front end structural damage (after repair).
² Insulator replacement.
ENGINE MOUNT INSULATOR ADJUSTMENT
(1) Remove the load on the engine motor mounts by
carefully supporting the engine and transmission as-
sembly with a floor jack. (2) Loosen the right engine mount insulator vertical
fasteners, and the front engine mount bracket to front
crossmember screws and nuts. Left engine mount insulator is sleeved over
shaft and long support bolt to provide lateral
movement adjustment with engine weight re-
moved or not. (3) Pry the engine right or left as required to achieve
the proper drive shaft assembly length. See Drive
Shaft in Suspension Group 2 for driveshaft identifica-
tion and related assembly length measuring. (4) Tighten right engine mount insulator vertical
bolts to 68 N Im (50 ft. lbs.). Then tighten front engine
mount screws and nuts to 54 N Im (40 ft. lbs.) and
center left engine mount insulator. (5) Recheck drive shaft length.
ENGINE ASSEMBLY
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery.
(2) Scribe hood hinge outline on hood and remove
hood. (3) Drain cooling system.
(4) Remove hoses from radiator and engine.
(5) Remove radiator and fan assembly.
(6) Remove air cleaner and hoses.
(7) Remove air conditioning compressor mounting
bolts and set compressor aside, if equipped. (8) Remove power steering pump mounting bolts
and set pump aside (9) Remove oil filter.
(10) Disconnect fuel line, heater hose and acceler-
ator cable. (11) Disconnect all electrical connections and har-
nesses at throttle body and engine. (12) Manual Transmission
(a) Disconnect clutch cable.
(b) Remove transmission case lower cover.
(c) Disconnect exhaust pipe at manifold.
(d) Disconnect starter and lay aside.
(e) Install transmission holding fixture.
(13) Automatic Transmission
(a) Disconnect exhaust pipe at manifold.
(b) Disconnect starter and lay aside.
(c) Remove transmission case lower cover.
(d) Mark flex plate to torque converter.
(e) Remove screws holding torque converter to
flex plate.
(14) Attach C clamp on front bottom of torque con-
verter housing to prevent torque converter from com-
ing out. (15) Install transmission holding fixture.
(16) Remove right inner splash shield (Fig. 5).
(17) Remove ground strap.
(18) To lowerengine separate right engine
bracket from yoke bracket To raiseengine remove
long bolt through yoke and insulator. IF INSULA-
TOR TO RAIL SCREWS ARE TO BE REMOVED,
MARK INSULATOR POSITION ON SIDE RAIL TO
INSURE EXACT INSTALLATION (Fig. 4). (19) Remove transmission case to cylinder block
mounting screws.Fig. 5 Right Inner Splash Shield
Fig. 4 Left Insulator Movement
Ä 2.2/2.5L ENGINE 9 - 13

CAUTION: Make sure clutch cable has been discon-
nected. (20) Remove front engine mount screw and nut.
(21) Remove manual transmission damper.
(22) Remove left insulator through bolt from inside
wheelhouse or insulator bracket to transmission
screws. (23) Remove engine from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install hoist to the engine and lower engine
into the engine compartment. SEE: ENGINE MOUNT RUBBER INSULATORS,
THIS GROUP. (2) Align engine mounts and install but do not
tighten until all mounting bolts have been installed.
(3) Install transmission case to cylinder block
mounting screws. Tighten to 95 N Im (70 ft. lbs.)
torque. (4) Remove engine hoist and transmission holding
fixture. (5) Install ground strap.
(6) Install right inner splash shield.
(7) Connect starter. See Electrical Group 8 for in-
stallation. (8) Connect exhaust system. See Exhaust Systems
Group 11 for installation. (9) Manual Transmission: Install transmission
case lower cover. Automatic Transmission: Remove C clamp from
torque converter housing. Align flexplate to torque
converter and install mounting screws. Tighten to 75
N Im (55 ft. lbs.) torque.
(10) Manual Transmission: Connect clutch cable.
See Clutch Group 6. (11) Install power steering pump. Refer to Cooling
System Group 7, Accessory Drive Section for belt
tension adjustment. (12) Connect fuel line, heater hose, and accelerator
cable. (13) Connect all electrical connections and har-
nesses at throttle body and engine. (14) Install oil filter. Fill engine crankcase with
proper oil to correct level. (15) Install air conditioning compressor (if
equipped). See Heater and Air Conditioning, Group
24 for installation. (16) Install air cleaner and hoses.
(17) Install radiator and shroud assembly . Install
radiator hoses. Fill cooling system. See Cooling Sys-
tem Group 7 for filling procedure. (18) Install hood.
(19) Connect battery.
(20) Start engine and run until operating temper-
ature is reached. (21) Adjust transmission linkage, if necessary.
SOLID MOUNT COMPRESSOR BRACKET SERVICE
When service procedures require solid mount
bracket removal and installation for example: cylin-
der head removal, etc., it is important that bracket
fasteners numbered 1 through 7 (Fig. 4) be removed
and installed in sequence, as instructed in Remove
and Install.
ACCESSORIES REMOVAL
(1) Remove (and install/adjust) belts,see Accessory
Drive Belts in Cooling System,Group 7. (2) Remove air conditioning compressor (in vehicle
with lines and set aside) (Fig. 6). (3) Remove generator pivot bolt and remove gener-
ator (in vehicle: turn wiring side up and disconnect,
then rotate generator, pulley end towards engine and
remove). (4) Remove air conditioner compressor belt idler.
SOLID MOUNT BRACKETÐREMOVAL (FIG. 4)
(1) Remove right engine mount yoke screw (see
Engine Remove Fig. 3) securing engine mount sup-
port strut to engine mount bracket. (2) Remove five side mounting bolts #1, #4 , #5,
#6, and #7 (Fig. 4). (3) Remove front mounting nut, #2, and remove
front bolt #3*. (4) Remove front mounting bolt and strut, rotate
solid mount bracket away from engine and slide
bracket on stud until #2 nut mounting stud until
free. Remove spacer from stud.
SOLID MOUNT BRACKETÐINSTALLATION
(1) Put spacer onto stud, then install bracket on
front (#2 nut) mounting stud and slide bracket over
timing belt cover into position. (2) Loosen assembly bracket to engine fasteners
(numbered #1 through #7 in Fig. 6). (3)
CAUTION: Fasteners MUST BE TIGHTENED IN SE-
QUENCE and to specified torque as follows :
² First Bolt #1 to 3.3 N Im (30 in. lbs.)
² Second Nut #2 and Bolt #3 to 54 N Im (40 ft. lbs.).
² Third Bolts #1 (second tightening) #4 and #5 to
54 N Im (40 ft. lbs.).
² Fourth Bolts #6 and #7 to 54 N Im (40 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install generator and compressor. Tighten com-
pressor mounting bracket bolts to 54 N Im (40 ft.
lbs.).
SOLID MOUNT COMPRESSOR BRACKET SERVICEÐTURBO III ENGINE
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable
9 - 14 2.2/2.5L ENGINE Ä

(2) Remove Accessory Drive Belt. Refer to Cooling
System Group 7 for procedure. (3) Remove accessory drive belt idler pulley (Fig.
7).
(4) Remove air conditioning compressor and set
aside (Fig. 8). (5) Remove generator attaching bolts set aside
(Fig. 8). (6) Remove timing belt covers. Refer to procedure
outlined in this section. (7) Remove right engine mount yoke bolt. Remove
the fasteners holding the strut into place. Remove
strut from engine (Fig. 9). (8) Remove accessory drive belt idler pulley
bracket (Fig. 9). (9) Remove timing belt. Refer to procedure out-
lined in this section. (10) Remove 2 bolts holding solid mount compres-
sor into place, Rotate bracket off engine (Fig. 7).
INSTALLATION
(1) Loosely assemble the bracket to engine with #1
and #2 bolts tighten to 3.3 N Im (30 in. lbs.) (Fig. 8).
(2) Install timing belt. Refer to procedure outlined
in this section. Install timing belt covers. Refer to
procedure outlined in this section. (3) Install strut on stud. Tighten nut #3 and bolt
#4, torque to 54 N Im (40 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 9). Loosen #1
and #2 bolts, then torque to 54 N Im (40 ft. lbs.) (Fig.
10).Install yoke bolt and torque to 102 N Im (75 ft.
lbs.). (4) Install accessory drive belt idler pulley and
bracket (Fig. 8). (5) Install accessory drive belt tensioner pulley
(Fig. 7). (6) Install generator (Fig. 8).
(7) Install air conditioning compressor (Fig. 8).
(8) Install accessory drive belt. Refer to Cooling
System Group 7 for procedure. (9) Connect negative battery cable.
Fig. 6 Solid Mount Compressor Bracket 2.2 & 2.5L Engines
Fig. 7 Accessory Drive System
Ä 2.2/2.5L ENGINE 9 - 15