light CHRYSLER VOYAGER 2001 Service Manual

DISASSEMBLY - CALIPER GUIDE PIN
BUSHINGS (DISC/DISC BRAKES)
Before disassembling the brake caliper, clean and
inspect it. Refer to CLEANING or INSPECTION in
this section.
(1) Using your fingers, collapse one side of the rub-
ber guide pin bushing. Pull the guide pin bushing out
the other side of the brake caliper mounting boss.
(2) Repeat this procedure on the remaining bush-
ing.
DISASSEMBLY - CALIPER PISTON AND SEAL
WARNING: UNDER NO CONDITION SHOULD HIGH
PRESSURE AIR EVER BE USED TO REMOVE A PIS-
TON FROM A CALIPER BORE. PERSONAL INJURY
COULD RESULT FROM SUCH A PRACTICE.
NOTE: Before disassembling the brake caliper,
clean and inspect it. Refer to CLEANING AND
INSPECTION in this section.
NOTE: The safest way to remove the piston from
the caliper bore is to use the hydraulic pressure of
the vehicle's brake system.
(1) Following the removal procedure in DISC
BRAKE SHOES found in this section, remove the
caliper from the brake rotor and hang the assembly
on a wire hook away from rotor and body of the vehi-
cle so brake fluid cannot get on these components.
Remove the brake shoes, and place a small piece of
wood between the piston and caliper fingers.
(2) Carefully depress the brake pedal to hydrauli-
cally push piston out of its bore. Once completed,
apply and hold down the brake pedal to any position
beyond the first inch of pedal travel using a brake
pedal holding tool. This will prevent the fluid in the
master cylinder reservoir from completely draining
out.
(3) Disconnect the brake fluid flex hose from the
caliper assembly and remove it from the vehicle.
CAUTION: Do not use excessive force when clamp-
ing caliper in vise. Excessive vise pressure will
cause bore distortion.(4) Mount the caliper in a vise equipped with pro-
tective jaws.
(5) Remove the piston dust boot from the caliper
and discard.
NOTE: Do not use a screw driver or other metal tool
for seal removal. Using such tools can scratch the
bore or leave burrs on the seal groove edges.
(6) Using a soft tool such as a plastic trim stick,
work the piston seal out of its groove in caliper pis-
ton bore (Fig. 33). Discard the old seal.
(7) Clean the piston bore and drilled passage ways
using alcohol or a suitable solvent. Wipe it dry using
only a lint-free cloth.
(8) Inspect the piston bore for scoring or pitting.
Bores that show light scratches or corrosion can usu-
ally be cleared of the light scratches or corrosion
using crocus cloth.
Fig. 33 Removing Piston Seal
1 - PLASTIC TRIM STICK
2 - CALIPER
3 - PISTON SEAL GROOVE
4 - PISTON SEAL
RSBRAKES - BASE5-23
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS - FRONT (Continued)

DISASSEMBLY - CALIPER PISTON AND SEAL
WARNING: UNDER NO CONDITION SHOULD HIGH
PRESSURE AIR EVER BE USED TO REMOVE A PIS-
TON FROM A CALIPER BORE. PERSONAL INJURY
COULD RESULT FROM SUCH A PRACTICE.
NOTE: Before disassembling the brake caliper,
clean and inspect it. Refer to CLEANING AND
INSPECTION in this section.
NOTE: The safest way to remove the piston from
the caliper bore is to use the hydraulic pressure of
the vehicle's brake system.
(1) Following the removal procedure in DISC
BRAKE SHOES found in this section, remove the
caliper from the brake rotor and hang the assembly
on a wire hook away from rotor and body of the vehi-
cle so brake fluid cannot get on these components.
Remove the brake shoes, and place a small piece of
wood between the piston and caliper fingers.
(2) Carefully depress the brake pedal to hydrauli-
cally push piston out of its bore. Once completed,
apply and hold down the brake pedal to any position
beyond the first inch of pedal travel using a brake
pedal holding tool. This will prevent the fluid in the
master cylinder reservoir from completely draining
out.(3) Disconnect the brake fluid flex hose from the
caliper assembly and remove it from the vehicle.
CAUTION: Do not use excessive force when clamp-
ing caliper in vise. Excessive vise pressure will
cause bore distortion.
(4) Mount the caliper in a vise equipped with pro-
tective jaws.
(5) Remove the piston dust boot from the caliper
and discard.
NOTE: Do not use a screw driver or other metal tool
for seal removal. Using such tools can scratch the
bore or leave burrs on the seal groove edges.
(6) Using a soft tool such as a plastic trim stick,
work the piston seal out of its groove in caliper pis-
ton bore (Fig. 39). Discard the old seal.
(7) Clean the piston bore and drilled passage ways
using alcohol or a suitable solvent. Wipe it dry using
only a lint-free cloth.
(8) Inspect the piston bore for scoring or pitting.
Bores that show light scratches or corrosion can usu-
ally be cleared of the light scratches or corrosion
using crocus cloth.
Fig. 38 Removing/Installing Caliper
1 - LIFT THIS END OF CALIPER AWAY FROM ADAPTER FIRST
2 - DISC BRAKE CALIPER
3 - ADAPTER ABUTMENT
4 - OUTBOARD BRAKE SHOE HOLD DOWN CLIP
5 - OUTBOARD BRAKE SHOE
6 - ROTOR
7 - ADAPTER
Fig. 39 Removing Piston Seal
1 - PLASTIC TRIM STICK
2 - CALIPER
3 - PISTON SEAL GROOVE
4 - PISTON SEAL
RSBRAKES - BASE5-27
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS - REAR (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - POWER BRAKE
BOOSTER
BASIC TEST
(1) With engine off, depress and release the brake
pedal several times to purge all vacuum from the
power brake booster.
(2) Depress and hold the pedal with light effort (15
to 25 lbs. pressure), then start the engine.
The pedal should fall slightly, then hold. Less effort
should be needed to apply the pedal at this time. If
the pedal fell as indicated, perform the VACUUM
LEAK TEST listed after the BASIC TEST. If the
pedal did not fall, continue on with this BASIC TEST.
(3) Disconnect the vacuum hose on the vacuum
check valve, then place a vacuum gauge in line
between the vacuum hose and the valve.
(4) Start the engine.
(5) When the engine is at warm operating temper-
ature, allow it to idle and check the vacuum at the
gauge.
If the vacuum supply is 12 inches Hg (40.5 kPa) or
more, the power brake booster is defective and must
be replaced. If the vacuum supply is below 12 inches
Hg, continue on with this BASIC TEST.
(6) Shut off the engine.
(7) Connect the vacuum gauge to the vacuum ref-
erence port on the engine intake manifold.
(8) Start the engine and observe the vacuum
gauge.
If the vacuum is still low, check the engine tune
and repair as necessary. If the vacuum is above 12
inches Hg, the hose or check valve to the booster has
a restriction or leak.
Once an adequate vacuum supply is obtained,
repeat the BASIC TEST.
VACUUM LEAK TEST
(1) Disconnect the vacuum hose on the vacuum
check valve, then place a vacuum gauge in line
between the vacuum hose and the valve.
(2) Start the engine.
(3) Allow the engine to warm up to normal operat-
ing temperature and engine idle.
(4) Using vacuum line pliers, close off the vacuum
supply hose near the booster, but before the vacuum
gauge, then observe the vacuum gauge.
If the vacuum drop exceeds 1.0 inch Hg (3.3 kPa)
in one minute, repeat the above steps to confirm the
reading. The vacuum loss should be less than 1.0
inch Hg in one minute time span. If the loss is more
than 1.0 inch Hg, replace the power brake booster. If
it is not, continue on with this test.
(5) Remove the pliers from the hose temporarily.
(6) Apply light effort (approximately 15 lbs. of
force) to the brake pedal and hold the pedal steady.Do not move the pedal once the pressure is applied
or the test results may vary.
(7) Have an assistant reattach the vacuum line
pliers to the vacuum supply hose.
(8) Allow 5 seconds for stabilization, then observe
the vacuum gauge.
If the vacuum drop exceeds 3.0 inches Hg (10 kPa)
in 15 seconds, repeat the above steps to confirm the
reading. The vacuum loss should be less than 3.0
inches Hg in 15 seconds time span. If the loss is
more than 3.0 inches Hg, replace the power brake
booster. If it is not, the booster is not defective.
(9) Remove the pliers and vacuum gauge.
REMOVAL - POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
CAUTION: Reserve vacuum in power brake booster
must be pumped down (removed) before removing
master cylinder from booster. This is necessary to
prevent booster from sucking in any contamination
as master cylinder is removed. This can be done
simply by pumping the brake pedal, with the vehi-
cle's engine not running, until a firm feeling brake
pedal is achieved.
(1) With engine not running, pump the brake
pedal until a firm pedal is achieved (4-5 strokes).
(2) Remove negative battery cable terminal from
battery.
(3) Remove positive battery cable terminal from
battery.
(4) Remove battery thermal guard shield.
(5) Remove battery clamp, nut and battery from
the battery tray.
(6) Remove screw securing engine coolant filler
tube to battery tray.
(7) If the vehicle is equipped with speed control,
disconnect the vacuum hose at the vacuum tank built
into the battery tray.
(8) Remove the two nuts and one bolt securing bat-
tery tray in place. Remove battery tray.
(9) If vehicle is equipped with speed control:
(a) Disconnect wiring harness connector from
the speed control servo.
(b) Remove the two servo mounting nuts.
(c) Lay speed control servo off to the side, out of
the way.
(10) Remove the wiper module (unit). (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/WIPERS/WASHERS/WIPER MOD-
ULE - REMOVAL)
(11) Disconnect wiring harness connector from
brake fluid level switch in master cylinder fluid res-
ervoir (Fig. 54).
5 - 38 BRAKES - BASERS
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)

(19) Rotate screwdriver enough to allow retaining
clip center tang to pass over end of brake pedal pin.
Then pull retaining clip off brake pedal pin.Discard
retaining clip. It is not to be reused. Replace
only with a new retaining clip when assem-
bling.
(20) Slide booster input rod off pedal pin.
(21) Remove the four nuts attaching power brake
booster to dash panel (Fig. 57).
(22) Slide power brake booster forward and remove
through engine compartment (Fig. 58).
CAUTION: Do not attempt to disassemble the power
brake vacuum booster it is serviced ONLY as a
complete assembly.INSTALLATION - POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
(1) Position power brake booster on dash panel
using the reverse procedure of its removal (Fig. 58).
It may be necessary to push in on booster input rod
as it is guided through the dash panel.
(2) Install the four nuts mounting the booster to
the dash panel (Fig. 57). Tighten the mounting nuts
to a torque of 29 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
(3) Using lubriplate, or equivalent, coat the sur-
face of the brake pedal pin where it contacts the
booster input rod.
CAUTION: When installing the brake pedal pin on
the power brake booster input rod, do not re-use
the old retaining clip.
(4) Install booster input rod on brake pedal pin
and install a NEW retaining clip (Fig. 59).
CAUTION: Do not reuse the original brake lamp
switch. The switch can only be adjusted once. That
is during initial installation of the switch. If the
switch is not adjusted properly or has been
removed for some service, a new switch must be
installed and adjusted.
(5) Remove and replace the brake lamp switch
with a NEW switch. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/BRAKE LAMP
SWITCH - REMOVAL), (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/BRAKE LAMP
SWITCH - INSTALLATION)
(6) Install the silencer panel below the steering
column.
(7) Connect vacuum hose to check valve on power
brake booster.
Fig. 57 BOOSTER MOUNTING
1 - DASH BRACKET
2 - POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
3 - BRAKE PEDAL ASSEMBLY
Fig. 58 BOOSTER REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
Fig. 59 Retaining Pin Installed On Brake Pedal Pin
1 - BRAKE PEDAL
2 - RETAINING CLIP
3 - BOOSTER INPUT ROD
5 - 40 BRAKES - BASERS
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)

OPERATION - PROPORTIONING VALVE
(HEIGHT SENSING)
Vehicles not equipped with ABS use a height sens-
ing proportioning valve.
The height sensing proportioning valve operates
similarly to a standard proportioning valve in the fol-
lowing way. As hydraulic pressure is applied to the
valve, full input hydraulic pressure is supplied to the
rear brakes up to a certain pressure point, called the
split point. Beyond the split point, the proportioning
valve reduces the amount of hydraulic pressure to
the rear brakes according to a given ratio. Thus, on
light brake applications, approximately equal
hydraulic pressure will be transmitted to both the
front and rear brakes. Upon heavier brake applica-
tions, the hydraulic pressure transmitted to the rear
brakes will be lower than the front brakes. This will
prevent premature rear wheel lockup and skid.
Here is how the height sensing proportioning valve
differs from a standard proportioning valve. As the
height of the rear suspension changes, the height
sensing portion of the proportioning valve changes
the split point of the proportioning valve. When the
height of the rear suspension is low, the proportion-
ing valve interprets this as extra load and the split
point of the proportioning valve is raised to a higher
pressure to allow for more rear braking. When the
height of the rear suspension is high, the proportion-
ing valve interprets this as a light load and the split
point of the proportioning valve is lowered to a lower
pressure and rear braking is reduced.
The height sensing proportioning valve regulates
the pressure by sensing the load condition of thevehicle through the movement of the proportioning
valve actuator lever (Fig. 61). As the position of the
rear axle changes, depending on the load the vehicle
is carrying, the movement is transferred to the pro-
portioning valve. The proportioning valve adjusts the
hydraulic pressure accordingly.
The height sensing proportioning valve allows the
brake system to maintain the optimal front to rear
brake balance regardless of the vehicle load condi-
tion. Under a light load condition, hydraulic pressure
to the rear brakes is minimized. As the rear load con-
dition increases, so does the hydraulic pressure to
the rear brakes.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - PROPORTIONING
VALVE (HEIGHT SENSING)
CAUTION: The use of aftermarket load leveling or
load capacity increasing devices on this vehicle is
prohibited. Using air shock absorbers or helper
springs on this vehicle will cause the height sens-
ing proportioning valve to inappropriately reduce
the hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes. This inap-
propriate reduction in hydraulic pressure potentially
could result in increased stopping distance of the
vehicle.
When a premature rear wheel skid is obtained on a
brake application, it may be an indication that the
hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes is above the
specified output from the proportioning valve. This
condition indicates a possible malfunction of the
height sensing proportioning valve, which will
require testing to verify that it is properly controlling
the hydraulic pressure allowed to the rear brakes.
Premature rear wheel skid may also be caused by
contaminated front or rear brake linings.
Prior to testing a proportioning valve for function,
check that all tire pressures are correct. Also, ensure
the front and rear brake linings are in satisfactory
condition.It is also necessary to verify that the
brakes shoe assemblies on a vehicle being
tested are either original equipment manufac-
turers (OEM) or original replacement brake
shoe assemblies meeting the OEM lining mate-
rial specification. This vehicles brake system is
not balanced for aftermarket brake shoe assem-
bly lining material.
If both front and rear brakes check OK, proceed
with the following test procedure for the height sens-
ing proportioning valve.
(1) Road test the vehicle to determine which rear
wheel brake is exhibiting premature wheel skid.
Fig. 61 HEIGHT SENSING PROPORTIONING VALVE
1 - PROPORTIONING VALVE
2 - ACTUATOR LEVER
3 - AXLE BRACKET
4 - REAR AXLE
5 - 42 BRAKES - BASERS
PROPORTIONING VALVE (Continued)

(4) Bleed the brake system thoroughly to ensure
that all air has been expelled from the hydraulic sys-
tem. (Refer to 5 - BRAKES - BASE - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
(5) Lower the vehicle to the ground.
(6) Road test the vehicle to verify proper operation
of the brake system.
ROTORS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BRAKE ROTOR
Any servicing of the rotor requires extreme care to
maintain the rotor within service tolerances to
ensure proper brake action.
Excessive runout or wobble in a rotor can increase
pedal travel due to piston knock-back. This increases
guide pin sleeve wear due to the tendency of the cal-
iper to follow the rotor wobble.
When diagnosing a brake noise or pulsation, the
machined disc braking surface should be checked and
inspected.
BRAKING SURFACE INSPECTION
Light braking surface scoring and wear is accept-
able. If heavy scoring or warping is evident, the rotor
must be refaced or replaced. (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
Excessive wear and scoring of the rotor can cause
improper lining contact on the rotor's braking sur-
face. If the ridges on the rotor are not removed beforenew brake shoes are installed, improper wear of the
shoes will result.
If a vehicle has not been driven for a period of
time, the rotor's braking surface will rust in the
areas not covered by the brake shoes at that time.
Once the vehicle is driven, noise and chatter from
the disc brakes can result when the brakes are
applied.
Some discoloration or wear of the rotor surface is
normal and does not require resurfacing when lin-
ings are replaced. If cracks or burned spots are evi-
dent, the rotor must be replaced.
ROTOR MINIMUM THICKNESS
Measure rotor thickness at the center of the brake
shoe contact surface. Replace the rotor if it is worn
below minimum thickness or if machining the rotor
will cause its thickness to fall below specifications.
CAUTION: Do not machine the rotor if it will cause
the rotor to fall below minimum thickness.
Minimum thickness specifications are cast on the
rotor's unmachined surface (Fig. 63). Limits can also
be found in the table at the end of this brake rotor
information.
ROTOR THICKNESS VARIATION
Thickness variation in a rotor's braking surface
can result in pedal pulsation, chatter and surge. This
can also be caused by excessive runout in the rotor or
the hub.
Rotor thickness variation measurements should be
made in conjunction with measuring runout. Mea-
sure thickness of the brake rotor at 12 equal points
around the rotor braking surface with a micrometer
at a radius approximately 25 mm (1 inch) from edge
of rotor (Fig. 64). If thickness measurements vary by
Fig. 62 PROPORTIONING VALVE MOUNTING
1 - LEFT REAR OUTLET TUBE
2 - RIGHT REAR OUTLET TUBE
3 - RIGHT REAR INLET TUBE
4 - MOUNTING BOLTS
5 - LEFT REAR INLET TUBE
Fig. 63 Minimum Brake Rotor Thickness Markings
(Typical)
1 - ROTOR MINIMUM THICKNESS MARKING
2 - ROTOR
5 - 44 BRAKES - BASERS
PROPORTIONING VALVE (Continued)

tem enters the ABS mode. During ABS braking,
hydraulic pressure in the four wheel circuits is mod-
ulated to prevent any wheel from locking. Each
wheel circuit is designed with a set of electric sole-
noids to allow modulation, although for vehicle sta-
bility, both rear wheel solenoids receive the same
electrical signal. Wheel lockup may be perceived at
the very end of an ABS stop and is considered nor-
mal.
During an ABS stop, the brakes hydraulic system
is still diagonally split. However, the brake system
pressure is further split into three control channels.
During antilock operation of the vehicle's brake sys-
tem, the front wheels are controlled independently
and are on two separate control channels, and the
rear wheels of the vehicle are controlled together.
The system can build and release pressure at each
wheel, depending on signals generated by the wheel
speed sensors (WSS) at each wheel and received at
the controller antilock brake (CAB).
NOISE AND BRAKE PEDAL FEEL
During ABS braking, some brake pedal movement
may be felt. In addition, ABS braking will create
ticking, popping, or groaning noises heard by the
driver. This is normal and is due to pressurized fluid
being transferred between the master cylinder and
the brakes. If ABS operation occurs during hard
braking, some pulsation may be felt in the vehicle
body due to fore and aft movement of the suspension
as brake pressures are modulated.
At the end of an ABS stop, ABS is turned off when
the vehicle is slowed to a speed of 3±4 mph. There
may be a slight brake pedal drop anytime that the
ABS is deactivated, such as at the end of the stop
when the vehicle speed is less than 3 mph or during
an ABS stop where ABS is no longer required. These
conditions exist when a vehicle is being stopped on a
road surface with patches of ice, loose gravel, or sand
on it. Also, stopping a vehicle on a bumpy road sur-
face activates ABS because of the wheel hop caused
by the bumps.
TIRE NOISE AND MARKS
Although the ABS system prevents complete wheel
lockup, some wheel slip is desired in order to achieve
optimum braking performance. Wheel slip is defined
as follows: 0 percent slip means the wheel is rolling
freely and 100 percent slip means the wheel is fully
locked. During brake pressure modulation, wheel slip
is allowed to reach up to 25±30 percent. This means
that the wheel rolling velocity is 25±30 percent less
than that of a free rolling wheel at a given vehicle
speed. This slip may result in some tire chirping,
depending on the road surface. This sound should not
be interpreted as total wheel lockup.Complete wheel lockup normally leaves black tire
marks on dry pavement. The ABS will not leave dark
black tire marks since the wheel never reaches a
fully locked condition. However, tire marks may be
noticeable as light patched marks.
START-UP CYCLE
When the ignition is turned on, a popping sound
and a slight brake pedal movement may be noticed.
The ABS warning lamp will also be on for up to 5
seconds after the ignition is turned on. When the
vehicle is first driven off, a humming may be heard
or felt by the driver at approximately 20±40 kph
(12±25 mph). All of these conditions are a normal
function of ABS as the system is performing a diag-
nosis check.
PREMATURE ABS CYCLING
Symptoms of premature ABS cycling include: click-
ing sounds from the solenoid valves; pump/motor
running; and pulsations in the brake pedal. Prema-
ture ABS cycling can occur at any braking rate of the
vehicle and on any type of road surface. Neither the
red BRAKE warning lamp, nor the amber ABS warn-
ing lamp, illuminate and no fault codes are stored in
the CAB.
Premature ABS cycling is a condition that needs to
be correctly assessed when diagnosing problems with
the antilock brake system. It may be necessary to use
a DRB scan tool to detect and verify premature ABS
cycling.
Check the following common causes when diagnos-
ing premature ABS cycling: damaged tone wheels;
incorrect tone wheels; damaged steering knuckle
wheel speed sensor mounting bosses; loose wheel
speed sensor mounting bolts; excessive tone wheel
runout; or an excessively large tone wheel-to-wheel
speed sensor air gap. Give special attention to these
components when diagnosing a vehicle exhibiting
premature ABS cycling.
After diagnosing the defective component, repair or
replace it as required. When the component repair or
replacement is completed, test drive the vehicle to
verify that premature ABS cycling has been cor-
rected.
OPERATION - ELECTRONIC BRAKE
DISTRIBUTION
Upon entry into EBD the inlet valve for the rear
brake circuit is switched on so that the fluid supply
from the master cylinder is shut off. In order to
decrease the rear brake pressure, the outlet valve for
the rear brake circuit is pulsed. This allows fluid to
enter the low pressure accumulator (LPA) in the
hydraulic control unit (HCU) resulting in a drop in
fluid pressure to the rear brakes. In order to increase
5 - 68 BRAKES - ABSRS
BRAKES - ABS (Continued)

the rear brake pressure, the outlet valve is switched
off and the inlet valve is pulsed. This increases the
pressure to the rear brakes. This back-and-forth pro-
cess will continue until the required slip difference is
obtained. At the end of EBD braking (brakes
released) the fluid in the LPA drains back to the
master cylinder by switching on the outlet valve and
draining through the inlet valve check valve. At the
same time the inlet valve is switched on in case of
another brake application.
The EBD will remain functional during many ABS
fault modes. If both the red BRAKE, and amber ABS
warning indicators are illuminated, the EBD may not
be functioning.
OPERATION - TRACTION CONTROL SYSTEM
The traction control module monitors wheel speed.
During acceleration, if the module detects front
(drive) wheel slip and the brakes are not applied, the
module enters traction control mode. Traction control
operation proceeds in the following order:
(1) Close the normally open isolation valves.
(2) Start the pump/motor and supply volume and
pressure to the front (drive) hydraulic circuit. (The
pump/motor runs continuously during traction con-
trol operation.)
(3) Open and close the build and decay valves to
maintain minimum wheel slip and maximum trac-
tion.
The cycling of the build and decay valves during
traction control is similar to that during antilock
braking, except the valves work to control wheel spin
by applying the brakes, whereas the ABS function is
to control wheel skid by releasing the brakes.
If the brakes are applied at anytime during a trac-
tion control cycle, the brake lamp switch triggers the
controller to switch off traction control.
HYDRAULIC SHUTTLE VALVES
Two pressure relief hydraulic shuttle valves allow
pressure and volume to return to the master cylinder
reservoir when not consumed by the build and decay
valves. These valves are necessary because the
pump/motor supplies more volume than the system
requires.
TRACTION CONTROL LAMP
The traction control system is enabled at each igni-
tion cycle. It may be turned off by depressing the
Traction Control Off switch button when the ignition
is in the ON position. The traction control function
lamp (TRAC OFF) illuminates immediately upon
depressing the button.
The traction control function lamp illuminates dur-
ing a traction control cycle, displaying TRAC.If the CAB calculates that the brake temperatures
are high, the traction control system becomes inoper-
ative until a time-out period has elapsed. During this
ªthermo-protection mode,º the traction control func-
tion lamp illuminates TRAC OFF; note that no trou-
ble code is registered.
CAUTION
The ABS uses an electronic control module, the
CAB. This module is designed to withstand normal
current draws associated with vehicle operation.
Care must be taken to avoid overloading the CAB
circuits.
CAUTION: In testing for open or short circuits, do
not ground or apply voltage to any of the circuits
unless instructed to do so for a diagnostic proce-
dure.
CAUTION: These circuits should only be tested
using a high impedance multi-meter or the DRBIIIT
scan tool as described in this section. Power
should never be removed or applied to any control
module with the ignition in the ON position. Before
removing or connecting battery cables, fuses, or
connectors, always turn the ignition to the OFF
position.
CAUTION: The CAB 24-way connector should never
be connected or disconnected with the ignition
switch in the ON position.
CAUTION: Use only factory wiring harnesses. Do
not cut or splice wiring to the brake circuits. The
addition of aftermarket electrical equipment (car
phone, radar detector, citizen band radio, trailer
lighting, trailer brakes, etc.) on a vehicle equipped
with antilock brakes may affect the function of the
antilock brake system.
CAUTION: When performing any service procedure
on a vehicle equipped with ABS, do not apply a
12-volt power source to the ground circuit of the
pump motor in the HCU. Doing this will damage the
pump motor and will require replacement of the
entire HCU.
CAUTION: An attempt to remove or disconnect cer-
tain system components may result in improper
system operation. Only those components with
approved removal and installation procedures in
this manual should be serviced.
RSBRAKES - ABS5-69
BRAKES - ABS (Continued)

INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate both ends of the torque shaft with
MS-4517 Lubricant or equivalent and install the
torque shaft from the left side reversing the removal
procedure.
(2) Install the brake booster bracket on the left
end of the shaft.
(3) Install the four brake booster retaining nuts
inside the passenger compartment. Tighten the
mounting nuts to a torque of 29 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
(4) Install the retaining nut for the brake booster
bracket in the engine compartment. Tighten the
mounting nuts to a torque of 29 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
(5) Using lubriplate, or equivalent, coat the sur-
face of the brake pedal torque shaft pin where it con-
tacts the booster input rod. Also coat the surface of
the brake pedal torque shaft pin where it contacts
the brake pedal link.
CAUTION: When installing the power brake booster
input rod on the brake pedal torque shaft pin, do
not reuse the old retaining clip.(6) Install booster input rod on brake pedal torque
shaft pin and install a NEW retaining clip (Fig. 3).
CAUTION: When installing the brake pedal link on
the brake pedal torque shaft pin, do not reuse the
old retaining clip.
(7) Connect the brake pedal link to the torque
shaft. Install a NEW retaining clip at the torque
shaft end of the brake pedal-to-torque shaft link.
(8) Install the HVAC housing. (Refer to 24 - HEAT-
ING & AIR CONDITIONING/DISTRIBUTION/HVAC
HOUSING - INSTALLATION)
(9) Install the instrument panel. (Refer to 23 -
BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/INSTRUMENT
PANEL ASSEMBLY - INSTALLATION)
CAUTION: Do not reuse the original brake lamp
switch. The switch can only be adjusted once. That
is during initial installation of the switch. If the
switch is not adjusted properly or has been
removed for some service, a new switch must be
installed and adjusted.
(10) Remove and replace the brake lamp switch
with a NEW switch. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/BRAKE LAMP
SWITCH - REMOVAL), (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/BRAKE LAMP
SWITCH - INSTALLATION)
(11) Road test vehicle to ensure proper operation of
the brakes.POWER BRAKE BOOSTER -
RHD
REMOVAL
CAUTION: Reserve vacuum in power brake booster
must be pumped down (removed) before removing
master cylinder from booster. This is necessary to
prevent booster from sucking in any contamination
as master cylinder is removed. This can be done
simply by pumping the brake pedal, with the vehi-
cle's engine not running, until a firm feeling brake
pedal is achieved.
(1) With engine not running, pump the brake
pedal until a firm pedal is achieved (4 or 5 strokes).
(2) Remove negative battery cable terminal from
battery.
(3) Remove positive battery cable terminal from
battery.
(4) Remove battery thermal guard shield.
(5) Remove battery clamp, nut and battery from
the battery tray.
Fig. 4 BOOSTER, TORQUE SHAFT AND PEDAL
MOUNTING
1 - PEDAL MOUNTING NUT
2 - BRAKE PEDAL ASSEMBLY
3 - PEDAL MOUNTING NUT
4 - PEDAL TORQUE SHAFT
5 - BOOSTER MOUNTING NUT
6 - BOOSTER BRACKET
7 - POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
8 - BOOSTER BRACKET MOUNTING NUT
5a - 4 BRAKES - BASERG
PEDAL TORQUE SHAFT (Continued)

CAUTION: When removing the vacuum seal from
the master cylinder, do not use a sharp tool.
(7) Using a soft tool such as a trim stick, remove
the vacuum seal from the master cylinder mounting
flange.
(8) Install a NEW vacuum seal on rear mounting
flange of the master cylinder (Fig. 11).(9) Position master cylinder on studs of booster,
aligning push rod on booster with master cylinder
piston.
(10) Install the two nuts mounting the master cyl-
inder to the booster (Fig. 6). Tighten both mounting
nuts to a torque of 25 N´m (225 in. lbs.).
(11) Connect wiring harness connector to brake
fluid level switch in the master cylinder fluid reser-
voir (Fig. 5).
(12) If the vehicle is equipped with the 2.5L diesel
engine, install the coolant recovery pressure con-
tainer and bracket. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/
COOLANT RECOVERY PRESS CONTAINER -
INSTALLATION)
(13) If equipped with speed control, install speed
control servo and connect wiring connector. Tighten
the mounting nuts to a torque of 14 N´m (124 in.
lbs.).
(14) Install the battery tray. Install the two nuts
and one bolt attaching the battery tray to the vehicle.
Tighten the bolt and nuts to a torque of 14 N´m (124
in. lbs.).
(15) If vehicle is equipped with speed control, con-
nect the servo vacuum hose to the vacuum tank on
the battery tray.
(16) Install the battery, clamp and mounting nut.
(17) Install the positive battery cable on the bat-
tery.
(18) Install the negative battery cable on the bat-
tery.
(19) Install the battery thermal guard shield.
CAUTION: Do not reuse the original brake lamp
switch. The switch can only be adjusted once. That
is during initial installation of the switch. If the
switch is not adjusted properly or has been
removed for some service, a new switch must be
installed and adjusted.
(20) Remove and replace the brake lamp switch
with a NEW switch. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/BRAKE LAMP
SWITCH - REMOVAL), (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/BRAKE LAMP
SWITCH - INSTALLATION)
(21) Bleed the base brakes as necessary. (Refer to
5 - BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(22) Road test vehicle to ensure proper operation
of the brakes.
Fig. 10 Retaining Pin Installed On Brake Pedal Pin
(Typical)
1 - BRAKE PEDAL
2 - RETAINING CLIP
3 - BOOSTER INPUT ROD
Fig. 11 Vacuum Seal (Typical)
1 - MASTER CYLINDER ASSEMBLY
2 - VACUUM SEAL
RGBRAKES - BASE5a-7
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER - RHD (Continued)