warning DODGE NEON 2000 Service Workshop Manual

(5) Disconnect the primary and secondary brake
tubes from master cylinder (Fig. 12). Install plugs in
the master cylinder outlet ports.
(6) Clean the area around where the master cylin-
der attaches to the power brake booster using a suit-
able brake cleaner such as MopartBrake Parts
Cleaner or an equivalent.
(7) Remove the 2 nuts attaching master cylinder to
power brake booster (Fig. 12).
(8) Slide the master cylinder straight out of the
power brake booster.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: The master cylinder must be bled before
installing it on the vehicle.
(1) Bleed the master cylinder before installing it
on the vehicle. Refer to MASTER CYLINDER
BLEEDING in SERVICE PROCEDURES within this
section of this service manual group.
(2) Wipe the face of the power brake booster clean
where the master cylinder seal comes in contact
when it's installed. Do not get any cleaner or debris
inside the booster.(3) Position the master cylinder on the studs of
power brake vacuum booster aligning the booster
push rod with the master cylinder push rod. Care-
fully push the master cylinder onto the studs until it
contacts the face of the booster.
(4) Install the two master cylinder mounting nuts
(Fig. 12). Tighten the mounting nuts to a torque of
28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
(5) Connect the primary and secondary brake
tubes to the master cylinder primary and secondary
ports (Fig. 12). Tighten the nuts to a torque of 17
N´m (145 in. lbs.).
(6) Install the wiring harness connector on the
master cylinder reservoir fluid level switch.
(7) Install the battery and clamp in place.
(8) Connect the positive, then the negative
(ground) cable on the battery.
(9) Fill the master cylinder to the proper fill level.
(10) Road test the vehicle to ensure proper opera-
tion of the base and antilock brake systems.
INTEGRATED CONTROL UNIT
NOTE: Before proceeding with this procedure,
review SERVICE WARNINGS AND CAUTIONS at the
beginning of REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION in this
section.
REMOVAL
(1) Using a brake pedal holder, depress the brake
pedal past its first one inch of travel and hold it in
this position (Fig. 13). This will isolate the master
cylinder from the brake hydraulic system and will
not allow the brake fluid to drain out of the master
cylinder reservoir.
(2) Disconnect negative (ground) cable from the
battery and isolate the cable.
(3) Disconnect the positive cable from the battery,
then remove the battery from the battery tray. There
is one nut securing the clamp on the backside of the
battery holding it in place.
(4) Remove the one nut and one bolt securing the
air cleaner box in place, then disconnect the wiring
harness connector at the air inlet sensor.
(5) Lift the air cleaner box upward enough to clear
its grommeted alignment post (Fig. 14), then move
the air cleaner box forward just enough to access the
battery tray mounting bolts.
(6) Remove the 2 bolts, then the 2 nuts mounting
the battery tray to its bracket (Fig. 14). Remove the
battery tray.
Fig. 12 Master Cylinder
1 ± POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
2 ± CONNECTOR
3 ± BRAKE FLUID LEVEL SWITCH
4 ± MOUNTING NUTS
5 ± SECONDARY BRAKE TUBE
6 ± PRIMARY BRAKE TUBE
PLBRAKES 5 - 79
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

(14) Refer to DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY in
this section of this group for the procedure on sepa-
rating and reattaching the CAB to the HCU.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the ICU onto its mounting bracket.
(2) Install the 3 bolts attaching the ICU to the
mounting bracket (Fig. 17). Tighten the 3 mounting
bolts to a torque of 11 N´m (97 in. lbs.)
(3) Install the four brake tubes going to the brakes
into their respective outlet ports on the ICU HCU
(Fig. 15). Using a crow foot on a torque wrench,
tighten the four brake tube nuts to a torque of 17
N´m (145 in. lbs.).
NOTE: When installing the brake tubes from the
master cylinder on the HCU, the brake tube with the
small tube nut is to be installed in the forward-most
port on the HCU with the small end going toward
the master cylinder secondary port.
(4) Install the primary and secondary brake tubes
from the master cylinder onto the HCU (Fig. 15). Do
not completely tighten the primary and secondary
tubes at this time.
(5) Connect the primary and secondary brake
tubes to the master cylinder ports (Fig. 15).
(6) Using a crow foot on a torque wrench, tighten
the primary and secondary brake tube nuts at both
the master cylinder and HCU to a torque of 17 N´m
(145 in. lbs.).
CAUTION: Before installing the 25-way connector
in the CAB, be sure the seal is properly installed in
the connector.(7) Install the 25-way connector into the socket of
the CAB as follows:
²Position the 25-way connector in the socket of
the CAB and carefully push it down as far as possi-
ble (Fig. 16).
²When the connector is fully seated into the CAB
socket, push the connector lock inward. This pulls
the connector into the socket of the CAB and locks it
in the installed position.
(8) Position the battery tray back in place. Install
the two bolts, then the two nuts mounting the bat-
tery tray to its bracket (Fig. 14). Tighten the two
bolts and nuts to a torque of 15 N´m (135 in. lbs.).
(9) Reinstall the air cleaner box onto its grom-
meted alignment post (Fig. 14).
(10) Install the one nut and one bolt securing the
air cleaner box in place, then connect the wiring har-
ness connector at the air inlet sensor.
(11) Install the battery and clamp it in place.
Tighten the hold-down clamp bolt to a torque of 12
N´m (105 in. lbs.).
(12) Connect the positive, then the negative
(ground) cable on the battery.
(13) Bleed the base and the ABS hydraulic sys-
tems. Refer to ANTILOCK BRAKE SYSTEM
BLEEDING in this section of this service manual
group.
(14) Fill the master cylinder to the proper fill
level.
(15) Road test the vehicle to ensure proper opera-
tion of the base and antilock brake systems.
WHEEL SPEED SENSOR (FRONT)
NOTE: Before proceeding with this procedure,
review SERVICE WARNINGS AND CAUTIONS at the
beginning of REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION in this
section.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise the vehicle. Refer to HOISTING in the
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE group for the
proper lifting procedure.
(2) Disconnect the wheel speed sensor cable con-
nector from the wiring harness on the inside of the
frame rail above the front suspension crossmember
(Fig. 18). The connector has a locking tab which that
must be pulled back before the connector release
tang can be depressed, releasing the connection.
(3) Remove the speed sensor cable grommet from
the retaining bracket attached to the brake hose on
the outside of the frame rail.
(4) Remove the bolt mounting the wheel speed sen-
sor head to the steering knuckle (Fig. 19).
Fig. 17 ICU Mounting Bolts
1 ± ICU
2 ± ICU MOUNTING BOLTS
PLBRAKES 5 - 81
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

WHEEL SPEED SENSOR (REAR)
NOTE: Before proceeding with this procedure,
review SERVICE WARNINGS AND CAUTIONS at the
beginning of REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION in this
section.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise the vehicle. Refer to HOISTING in the
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE group for the
proper lifting procedure.
(2) Remove the tire and wheel assembly from the
vehicle.
(3) Disconnect the wheel speed sensor cable con-
nector from the vehicle wiring harness (Fig. 21).
Remove the clip attaching wheel speed sensor cable
connector to the vehicle's body.
(4) Remove the wheel speed sensor cable routing
bracket from under rear brake flex hose mounting
bracket. Then remove the speed sensor cable from
the routing clips on the rear brake flex hose and
chassis brake tube.
(5) Remove the bolt attaching the wheel speed sen-
sor cable routing bracket to rear strut.
CAUTION: When removing a wheel speed sensor
from the rear disc brake adapter, do not use pliers
on the sensor head. This may damage the sensor
head. If the sensor has seized, use a hammer and apunch to tap the edge of the sensor head ear, rock-
ing the sensor side-to-side until free.
(6) Remove the bolt attaching the wheel speed sen-
sor to the rear disc brake adapter (Fig. 22), then
carefully remove the sensor head from the rear disc
brake adapter and vehicle.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Failure to install speed sensor cables
properly may result in contact with moving parts or
an over extension of cables causing an open cir-
cuit. Be sure that cables are installed, routed, and
clipped properly.
(1) Install the wheel speed sensor head into the
disc brake adapter (Fig. 22).
(2) Install the wheel speed sensor mounting bolt.
Tighten the mounting bolt to a torque of 12 N´m (105
in. lbs.).
(3) Install the wheel speed sensor cable routing
bracket on the rear strut.
(4) Install wheel speed sensor cable into the rout-
ing clips on the rear brake hose and brake tube.
(5) Connect the wheel speed sensor cable connector
into vehicle wiring harness (Fig. 21). Install the clip
attaching the wheel speed sensor cable connector to
vehicle's body.
(6) Install the tire and wheel assembly on vehicle.
(7) Lower the vehicle.
(8) Road test the vehicle to ensure proper opera-
tion of the base brakes and ABS.
Fig. 21 Wheel Speed Sensor Connector
1 ± FUEL TANK
2 ± TENSION STRUT
3 ± WHEEL SPEED SENSOR CONNECTOR
4 ± LOCKING TAB
5 ± CLIP
Fig. 22 Rear Wheel Speed Sensor
1 ± RIGHT REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
2 ± TENSION STRUT
PLBRAKES 5 - 83
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

RADIATOR HOSES AND CLAMPS
WARNING: IF VEHICLE HAS BEEN RUN RECENTLY,
WAIT 15 MINUTES BEFORE WORKING ON VEHI-
CLE. RELIEVE PRESSURE BY PLACING A SHOP
TOWEL OVER THE CAP AND WITHOUT PUSHING
DOWN ROTATE IT COUNTERCLOCKWISE TO THE
FIRST STOP. ALLOW FLUIDS TO ESCAPE
THROUGH THE OVERFLOW TUBE AND WHEN THE
SYSTEM STOPS PUSHING OUT COOLANT AND
STEAM AND THE PRESSURE DROPS CONTINUE
SERVICE.
WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS
ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES.
WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY
TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF
CLAMP. ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN
SERVICING CONSTANT TENSION CLAMPS.
CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the
tongue of constant tension clamps. If replacement
is necessary, use only a original equipment clamp
with matching number or letter (Fig. 6).
The hose clamps are removed by using Special Tool
6094 or equivalent constant tension clamp pliers
(Fig. 7) to compress the hose clamp.
A hardened, cracked, swollen or restricted hose
should be replaced. Care should be taken not to dam-
age radiator inlet and outlet when removing hoses.
Radiator hoses should be routed without any kinks
and indexed as designed. The use of molded hoses is
recommended.Make sure hoses and connectors are clean and dry
before installation. Do not lubricate hoses when
installing.
Spring type hose clamps are used in all applica-
tions. If replacement is necessary, replace with the
original Mopartequipment spring type clamp.
WATER PUMP
The water pump has a diecast aluminum body and
housing with a stamped steel impeller. The water
pump bolts directly to the cylinder block and is
driven by the timing belt (Fig. 8). Cylinder block to
water pump sealing is provided by a rubber O-ring.
The water pump is the ªheartº of the cooling sys-
tem. It pumps the coolant through the engine block,
cylinder head, heater core, and radiator.
NOTE: The water pump on all models can be
replaced without discharging the air conditioning
system.
Fig. 6 Spring Clamp Size Location
1 ± SPRING CLAMP SIZE LOCATION
Fig. 7 Hose Clamp Tool
1 ± HOSE CLAMP TOOL 6094
2 ± HOSE CLAMP
Fig. 8 Water Pump
1 ± CYLINDER BLOCK
2 ± PUMP BODY
PLCOOLING SYSTEM 7 - 5
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
TEMPERATURE GAUGE READS
LOW1. Has a Diagnostic Trouble Code
(DTC) been set indicating a stuck
open engine thermostat?1. Refer to On Board Diagnostic in
Group 25. Replace thermostat, if
necessary. If a (DTC) has not been
set, the problem may be with the
temperature gauge.
2. Is the temperature gauge (if
equipped) connected to the
temperature gauge coolant sensor
on the engine?2. Check the connector at the
engine coolant sensor. Refer to
Group 8E. Repair as necessary.
3. Is the temperature gauge (if
equipped) operating OK?3. Check Gauge operation. Refer to
Group 8E. Repair as necessary.
4. Coolant level low during cold
ambient temperature, accompanied
by poor heater performance.4. Check coolant level in the coolant
recovery/reserve container and the
radiator. Inspect the system for
leaks. Repair as necessary. Refer to
WARNINGS in this section before
removing pressure cap.
TEMPERATURE GAUGE READS
HIGH OR ENGINE COOLANT
WARNING LAMP ILLUMINATES.
COOLANT MAY OR MAY NOT BE
LOST FROM SYSTEM.1. Trailer being towed, a steep hill
being climbed, vehicle being
operated in slow moving traffic, or
engine idling during high ambient
(outside) temperatures with air
conditioning on. High altitudes
Could aggravate these conditions.1. This may be a temporary
condition and repair is not
necessary. Turn off the air
conditioning and drive the vehicle
without any of the previous
conditions. Observe the temperature
gauge the gauge should return to
the normal range. If the gauge does
not return to the normal range,
determine the cause of the
overheating and repair. Refer to
POSSIBLE CAUSES in this section.
2. Is temperature gauge (if
equipped) reading correctly?2. Check gauge. Refer to Group 8E.
Repair as necessary.
3. Is temperature warning lamp (if
equipped) illuminating
unnecessarily?3. Check warning lamp operation.
Refer to Group 8E. Repair as
necessary.
4. Coolant low in recovery/reserve
container and radiator?4. Check for coolant leaks and
repair as necessary. Refer to
Checking Cooling System for Leaks
in this section.
5. Pressure cap not installed tightly.
If cap is loose, boiling point of
coolant will be lowered. Also refer
to the following step 6.5. Tighten cap.
PLCOOLING SYSTEM 7 - 7

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
TEMPERATURE GAUGE READS
HIGH OR ENGINE COOLANT
WARNING LAMP ILLUMINATES.
COOLANT MAY OR MAY NOT BE
LOST FROM SYSTEM. (CONT.)6. Poor seals at radiator cap. 6. (a) Check condition of cap and
cap seals. Refer to Radiator cap
Inspection. Replace cap if
necessary.
(b) Check condition of filler neck. If
neck is bent or damaged, replace
neck.
7. Coolant level low in radiator, but
not in coolant recovery/reserve
container. This indicates the
radiator is not drawing coolant from
the coolant recovery/reserve
container as the engine cools. As
the engine cools, a vacuum is
formed inside the cooling system. If
the radiator cap seals are defective,
or the cooling system has a leak, a
vacuum cannot be formed.7. (a) Check condition of radiator
cap and cap seals. Replace cap if
necessary.
(b) Check condition of filler neck.
Replace if damaged.
(c) Check condition of hose from
filler neck to coolant container. It
should be tight at both ends without
any kinks or tears. Replace hose as
necessary.
(d) Check coolant recovery/reserve
container and hose for blockage.
Repair as necessary.
8. Freeze point of coolant not
correct. Mixture ratio may be too
rich.8. Check coolant concentration.
Refer to Coolant Concentration
Testing in this section. Adjust
glycol-to-water ration as required.
9. Coolant not flowing through
system.9. Check for coolant flow at filler
neck with some coolant removed,
engine warm, and thermostat open.
Coolant should be observed flowing
through filler neck. If flow is not
observed, determine reason for lack
of flow and repair as necessary.
10. Radiator or A/C condenser fins
are dirty or clogged.10. Clean obstruction from fins.
11. Radiator core is plugged or
corroded.11. Replace or re-core radiator.
12. Fuel or ignition system
problems.12. Refer to Fuel and Ignition
System groups for diagnosis. Also
refer to the appropriate Powertrain
Diagnostic Procedure manual.
13. Dragging Brakes. 13. Inspect brake system and repair
as necessary. Refer to Group 5,
Brakes for diagnosis.
14 Bug screen or other aftermarket
accessory is being used causing
reduced air flow.14. Remove bug screen or
accessory.
15. Thermostat partially or
completely closed. This is more
prevalent on high mileage vehicles.15. Check thermostat operation and
replace as necessary. Refer to
thermostat in this section for
procedure.
7 - 8 COOLING SYSTEMPL
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

WATER PUMP DIAGNOSIS
A quick flow test to tell whether or not the pump is
working is to see if the heater warms properly. A
defective pump will not be able to circulate heated
coolant through the long heater hose.
Another flow test to help determine pump opera-
tion:
WARNING: DO NOT remove radiator cap if the cool-
ing system is hot or under pressure.
(1) Remove cooling system pressure cap.
(2) Remove a small amount of coolant from the
system.
(3) Start the engine and warm up until thermostat
opens.
(4) With the thermostat open and coolant level low,
visually inspect for coolant flow. If flow is present,
the water pump is pumping coolant through the sys-
tem.
COOLING SYSTEM FLOW CHECK
To determine whether coolant is flowing through
the cooling system, use the following procedures:
(1) If engine is cold, idle engine until normal oper-
ating temperature is reached. Then feel the upper
radiator hose. If it is hot, coolant is circulating.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE COOLING SYS-
TEM PRESSURE CAP WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND
UNDER PRESSURE BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS
FROM COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
(2) Remove pressure cap when engine is cold,
remove small amount of coolant Idle engine until
thermostat opens, you should observe coolant flow
while looking down the filler neck. Once flow is
detected install the pressure cap.
ELECTRIC FAN MOTOR TEST
Refer to Powertrain Diagnostic Manual for proce-
dure.
COOLANT CONCENTRATION TESTING
Coolant concentration should be checked when any
additional coolant was added to system or after a
coolant drain, flush and refill. The coolant mixture
offers optimum engine cooling and protection against
corrosion when mixed to a freeze point of -37ÉC
(-34ÉF) to -59ÉC (-50ÉF). The use of a hydrometer or a
refractometer can be used to test coolant concentra-
tion.
A hydrometer will test the amount of glycol in a
mixture by measuring the specific gravity of the mix-
ture. The higher the concentration of ethylene glycol,
the larger the number of balls that will float, andhigher the freeze protection (up to a maximum of
70% by volume glycol).
A refractometer will test the amount of glycol in a
coolant mixture by measuring the amount a beam of
light bends as it passes through the fluid.
Some coolant manufactures use other types of gly-
cols into their coolant formulations. Propylene glycol
is the most common new coolant. However, propylene
glycol based coolants do not provide the same freez-
ing protection and corrosion protection and is only
recommended for limited usage. Refer to appropriate
Technical Service Bulletin(s) regarding use of propy-
lene glycol based coolants.
CAUTION: Do not mix types of coolantÐcorrosion
protection will be severely reduced.
Because ethylene glycol and propylene glycol do
not have the same specific gravities, the use of a
hydrometer will be inaccurate. Therefore, Special
Tool 8286 refractometer, is recommended when test-
ing either ethylene or propylene glycol coolants.
TESTING COOLING SYSTEM FOR LEAKS
The system should be full. With the engine not
running, wipe the filler neck sealing seat clean.
Attach a radiator pressure tester to the filler neck,
as shown in (Fig. 12) and apply 104 kPa (15 psi)
pressure. If the pressure drops more than 2 psi in 2
minutes, inspect the system for external leaks.
Move all hoses at the radiator and heater while
system is pressurize at 15 psi, since some leaks occur
due to engine rock while driving.
If there are no external leaks after the gauge dial
shows a drop in pressure, detach the tester. Start the
engine, and run the engine to normal operating tem-
perature in order to open the thermostat and allow
Fig. 12 Pressure Testing Cooling SystemÐTypical
1 ± PRESSURE TESTER
PLCOOLING SYSTEM 7 - 15
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

the coolant to expand. Reattach the tester. If the nee-
dle on the dial fluctuates it indicates a combustion
leak, usually a head gasket leak.
WARNING: WITH THE PRESSURE TESTER IN
PLACE PRESSURE BUILDS UP QUICKLY. ANY
EXCESSIVE PRESSURE BUILD-UP DUE TO CON-
TINUOUS ENGINE OPERATION MUST BE
RELEASED TO A SAFE PRESSURE POINT. NEVER
PERMIT PRESSURE TO EXCEED 138 kPa (20 psi).
If the needle on the dial does not fluctuate, race
the engine a few times. If an abnormal amount of
coolant or steam is emitted from the tail pipe, it may
indicate a faulty head gasket, cracked engine block,
or cracked cylinder head.
There may be internal leaks, which can be deter-
mined by removing the oil dipstick. If water globules
appear intermixed with the oil, it indicates an inter-
nal leak in the engine. If there is an internal leak,
the engine must be disassembled for repair.
PRESSURE CAP TO FILLER NECK SEAL
PRESSURE RELIEF CHECK
The pressure cap upper gasket (seal) pressure
relief can be checked by removing the overflow hose
at the radiator filler neck nipple (Fig. 13). Attach the
radiator pressure tester to thefiller neck nipple,
and pump air into the system. The pressure cap
upper gasket should relieve pressure at 69-124 kPa
(10-18 psi), and hold pressure at 55 kPa (8 psi) min-
imum.
WARNING: THE WARNING WORDS DO NOT OPEN
HOT ON THE PRESSURE CAP IS A SAFETY PRE-
CAUTION. WHEN HOT, THE COOLING SYSTEM
BUILDS UP PRESSURE. TO PREVENT SCALDING
OR OTHER INJURY, THE PRESSURE CAP SHOULD
NOT BE REMOVED WHILE THE SYSTEM IS HOT
AND/OR UNDER PRESSURE.
There is no need to remove the pressure cap at any
timeexceptfor the following purposes:
²Check and adjust coolant freeze point
²Refill system with new coolant
²Conducting service procedures
²Checking for leaks
WARNING: IF VEHICLE HAS BEEN RUN RECENTLY,
WAIT 15 MINUTES BEFORE REMOVING CAP.
PLACE A SHOP TOWEL OVER THE CAP, AND WITH-
OUT PUSHING DOWN, ROTATE IT COUNTER-
CLOCKWISE TO THE FIRST STOP. ALLOW FLUIDSTO ESCAPE THROUGH THE OVERFLOW TUBE.
WHEN THE SYSTEM STOPS PUSHING COOLANT
AND STEAM INTO THE CRS TANK AND PRESSURE
DROPS, PUSH DOWN ON THE CAP AND REMOVE
IT COMPLETELY. SQUEEZING THE RADIATOR
INLET HOSE WITH A SHOP TOWEL (TO CHECK
PRESSURE) BEFORE AND AFTER TURNING TO
THE FIRST STOP IS RECOMMENDED.
PRESSURE TESTING COOLING SYSTEM
PRESSURE CAP
Dip the pressure cap in water; clean off any depos-
its on the vent valve or its seat, and apply the cap to
end of radiator pressure tester (Fig. 14). Working the
plunger, increase the pressure to 104 kPa (15 psi) on
the gauge. If the pressure cap fails to hold pressure
of at least 97 kPa (14 psi), replace the cap.
Fig. 13 Cooling System Pressure Cap
1 ± PRESSURE RATING
2 ± FILLER NECK SEAL
3 ± PRESSURE VALVE
4 ± VACUUM VENT VALVE (SHOWN IN SEALING POSITION)
7 - 16 COOLING SYSTEMPL
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

(3) Remove thermostat/engine outlet connector
bolts (Fig. 22).
(4) Remove thermostat and O-ring assembly.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean all sealing surfaces.
(2) Place the new thermostat assembly into the
thermostat housing/outlet connector. Align vent with
notch in cylinder head.
(3) Install thermostat housing/outlet connector
onto cylinder head and tighten bolts to 12.5 N´m (110
in. lbs.).
(4) Install upper radiator hose.
(5) Connect the coolant recovery/reserve system
hose.
(6) Refill cooling system. Refer to procedure in this
section.
RADIATOR
REMOVAL
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK PLUG OR THE RADIATOR DRAINCOCK
WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE
BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN
OCCUR.
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Drain cooling system. Refer to procedure in
this section.
(3) Remove upper radiator hose from the radiator.
(4) Disconnect and cap automatic transmission
hoses, if equipped.(5) Disconnect cooling fan motor electrical connec-
tor.
(6) Remove cooling fan module retaining screws,
located on the top of the shroud (Fig. 23). Lift shroud
up and out of bottom shroud attachment clips sepa-
rating shroud from radiator.
(7) Remove the lower radiator hose.
(8) Remove upper radiator isolator bracket mount-
ing screws (Fig. 24). Disconnect the engine block
heater wire, if equipped.
(9) Remove the air conditioning condenser attach-
ing screws located at the front of the radiator, if
equipped (Fig. 25), then lean condenser forward.
NOTE: It is not necessary to discharge the air con-
ditioning system to remove the radiator.
Fig. 22 Thermostat/Engine Outlet Connector
1 ± PRESSURE CAP
2 ± THERMOSTAT HOUSING/ENGINE OUTLET CONNECTOR
3 ± THERMOSTAT
4 ± O-RING
5 ± VENT FACING UP
Fig. 23 Fan Module Mounting
1 ± SCREWS
2 ± LOWER MOUNTS
3 ± FAN MOTOR ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
Fig. 24 Radiator Mounting
1 ± UPPER RADIATOR HOSE
2 ± UPPER RADIATOR MOUNTS
PLCOOLING SYSTEM 7 - 21
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

(10) Radiator can now be lifted free from engine
compartment.Care should be taken not to dam-
age radiator cooling fins or water tubes during
removal.
INSTALLATION
(1) Slide radiator down into position behind radia-
tor support (yoke).
(2) Attach air conditioning condenser to radiator, if
equipped (Fig. 25), with four mounting screws.
Tighten screws to 5.4 N´m (50 in. lbs.). Then seat the
radiator assembly lower rubber isolators into the
mounting holes provided in the lower crossmember.
(3) Install and tighten radiator isolator mounting
bracket screws to 10 N´m (90 in. lbs.) (Fig. 24). The
radiator should have clearance to move up, approxi-
mately 5±8 mm (0.20±0.31 in.) after assembled.
(4) Install lower radiator hose. Align the hose and
position the clamp so it will not interfere with engine
components.
(5) Connect automatic transmission hoses, if
equipped. Tighten hose clamps to 2 N´m (18 in. lbs.).
(6) Slide fan module down into clip(s) on lower
radiator flange (Fig. 23). Install retaining screws and
tighten to 7.5 N´m (65 in. lbs.).
(7) Connect the cooling fan motor electrical connec-
tor.
(8) Install upper radiator hose. Align the hose and
position the clamp so they will not interfere with the
engine or the hood.
(9) Connect negative cable to battery.
(10) Fill cooling system with coolant. Refer to pro-
cedure in this section.
(11) Operate engine until it reaches normal operat-
ing temperature. Check cooling system and auto-
matic transmission for correct fluid levels.
RADIATOR DRAINCOCK
REMOVAL
(1) Turn the drain cock stem counterclockwise to
unscrew the stem. When the stem is unscrewed to
the end of the threads, pull the stem (Fig. 26) from
the radiator tank.
INSTALLATION
(1) Push the draincock assembly body into the
tank opening.
(2) Tighten the draincock stem by turning clock-
wise to 2.0-2.7 N´m (18-25 in. lbs.).
COOLING FAN MODULE
All models use a single speed electric motor driven
cooling system fan. The fan module includes a motor,
fan blade, and support shroud. The module is fas-
tened to the radiator by screws.
REMOVAL
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK PLUG OR THE RADIATOR DRAINCOCK
WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE
BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN
OCCUR.
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Drain cooling system below upper radiator hose
level. Refer to procedure in this section.
(3) Remove upper radiator hose from radiator (Fig.
27).
(4) Disconnect fan module electrical connector.
(5) Remove fan module screws from radiator (Fig.
28).
(6) Lift fan shroud up and out of lower shroud
attachment clips.
(7) Refer to Disassembly and Assembly in this sec-
tion for fan module sub-component service proce-
dures.
Fig. 25 A/C Condenser to Radiator Mounting Screws
1 ± AIR CONDITIONING CONDENSER TO RADIATOR
MOUNTING SCREWS
2 ± LOWER ISOLATOR MOUNTS
Fig. 26 Draincock
1 ± DRAIN COCK BODY
2 ± DRAIN COCK HOUSING
7 - 22 COOLING SYSTEMPL
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)