air suspension DODGE RAM 2002 Service Repair Manual

GROUP TAB LOCATOR
Introduction
0Lubrication & Maintenance
2Suspension
3Differential & Driveline
5Brakes
6Clutch
7Cooling
8AAudio
8BChime/Buzzer
8EElectronic Control Modules
8FEngine Systems
8GHeated Systems
8HHorn
8IIgnition Control
8JInstrument Cluster
8LLamps
8MMessage Systems
8NPower Systems
8ORestraints
8PSpeed Control
8QVehicle Theft Security
8RWipers/Washers
8WWiring
9Engine
11Exhaust System
13Frame & Bumpers
14Fuel System
19Steering
21Transmission and Transfer Case
22Tires/Wheels
23Body
24Heating & Air Conditioning
25Emissions Control
Component and System Index
Service Manual Comment Forms (Rear of Manual)
NOTE: For New Vehicle Preparation
information, see the separate
publication, 81-170-00003.

OPERATION
²CASTERis the forward or rearward tilt of the
steering knuckle from vertical. Tilting the top of the
knuckle rearward provides positive caster. Tilting the
top of the knuckle forward provides negative caster.
Caster is a directional stability angle which enables
the front wheels to return to a straight ahead posi-
tion after turns.
²CAMBERis the inward or outward tilt of the
wheel relative to the center of the vehicle. Tilting the
top of the wheel inward provides negative camber.
Tilting the top of the wheel outward provides positive
camber. Incorrect camber will cause wear on the
inside or outside edge of the tire.
²WHEEL TOE POSITIONis the difference
between the leading inside edges and trailing inside
edges of the front tires. Incorrect wheel toe position
is the most common cause of unstable steering and
uneven tire wear. The wheel toe position is thefinal
front wheel alignment adjustment.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - PRE-ALIGNMENT
Before starting wheel alignment, the following
inspection and necessary corrections must be com-
pleted. Refer to Suspension and Steering System
Diagnosis Chart for additional information.
(1) Inspect tires for size and tread wear.
(2) Set tire air pressure.
(3) Inspect front wheel bearings for wear.
(4) Inspect front wheels for excessive radial or lat-
eral runout and balance.
(5) Inspect ball studs, linkage pivot points and
steering gear for looseness, roughness or binding.
(6) Inspect suspension components for wear and
noise.
(7) Road test the vehicle.
Fig. 2 Alignment Angles - Link/Coil
1 - WHEEL CENTERLINE
2 - NEGATIVE CAMBER ANGLE
3 - PIVOT CENTERLINE
4 - SCRUB RADIUS5 - TRUE VERTICAL
6 - KING PIN
7 - VERTICAL
8 - POSITIVE CASTER
2 - 2 WHEEL ALIGNMENTBR/BE
WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)

²136 N´m (110 ft. lbs.) Install the lower ball joint
cotter pin.
(6) Install the stabilizer bar link on the lower sus-
pension arm. Install the grommet, retainer and nut
and tighten to 37 N´m (27 ft. lbs.).
(7) Install the tie rod end on the steering knuckle
and tighten nut to 108 N´m (80 ft. lbs.). Install cotter
pin.
(8) Install the brake rotor and caliper assembly,
(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/
ROTORS - INSTALLATION).
(9) Install the tire and wheel assembly, (Refer to
22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE).
(10) Remove the support and lower the vehicle.
(11) Tighten the suspension arm crossmember
nuts to 169 N´m (125 ft. lbs.).
SHOCK
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SHOCK
A knocking or rattling noise from a shock absorber
may be caused by movement between mounting
bushings and metal brackets or attaching compo-
nents. These noises can usually be stopped by tight-
ening the attaching nuts. If the noise persists,
inspect for damaged and worn bushings, and attach-
ing components. Repair as necessary if any of these
conditions exist.
A squeaking noise from the shock absorber may be
caused by the hydraulic valving and may be intermit-
tent. This condition is not repairable and the shock
absorber must be replaced.
The shock absorbers are not refillable or adjust-
able. If a malfunction occurs, the shock absorber
must be replaced. To test a shock absorber, hold it in
an upright position and force the piston in and out of
the cylinder four or five times. The action throughout
each stroke should be smooth and even.
The shock absorber bushings do not require any
type of lubrication. Do not attempt to stop bushing
noise by lubricating them. Grease and mineral oil-
base lubricants will deteriorate the bushing.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove shock upper nut and remove retainer
and grommet.
(3) Remove lower mounting bolt from suspension
arm and remove shock (Fig. 5).
INSTALLATION
(1) Extend shock fully, install retainer and grom-
met on top of shock absorber. Check grommets and
retainer for wear.(2) Guide shock up through upper suspension arm
bracket. Install top grommet, retainer and nut.
Tighten nut to 54 N´m (40 ft. lbs.).
(3) Align bottom end of shock into lower suspen-
sion arm and install mounting bolt. Tighten bolt to
142 N´m (105 ft. lbs.).
(4) Remove support and lower vehicle.
SPRING
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
(3) Remove the brake caliper assembly and rotor,
(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/
ROTORS - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the cotter pin and nut from the tie rod.
Remove the tie rod end from the steering knuckle
with Puller C-3894-A.
(5) Remove the stabilizer bar link from the lower
suspension arm.
(6) Support the lower suspension arm outboard
end with a jack. Place a jack under the arm in front
of the shock mount.
(7) Remove the cotter pin and nut from the lower
ball joint. Separate the ball joint with Remover
C-4150A.
(8) Remove the lower shock bolt from the suspen-
sion arm.
(9) Lower the jack and suspension arm until
spring tension is relieved. Remove spring and rubber
isolator (Fig. 6).
Fig. 5 Shock
1 - SHOCK
2 - JOUNCE BUMPER
BR/BEFRONT - 2WD 2 - 11
LOWER CONTROL ARM (Continued)

REAR
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
REAR
DESCRIPTION.........................25
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SPRING AND
SHOCK.............................25
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE CHART......................26
SPECIAL TOOLS
SUSPENSION-REAR...................27
BUSHINGS
REMOVAL.............................27INSTALLATION.........................27
SHOCK
REMOVAL.............................27
INSTALLATION.........................27
SPRING
REMOVAL.............................27
INSTALLATION.........................28
STABILIZER BAR
REMOVAL.............................29
INSTALLATION.........................29
REAR
DESCRIPTION
The rear suspension is comprised of:
²Shock Absorbers
²Jounce Bumpers
²Stabilizer Bar (optional)
²Leaf Springs
²Drive Axle
CAUTION: A vehicle should always be loaded so
the vehicle weight center-line is located immedi-
ately forward of the rear axle. Correct vehicle load-
ing provides proper front tire-to-road contact. This
results in maximum vehicle handling stability and
safety. Incorrect vehicle weight distribution can
cause excessive tire tread wear, spring fatigue or
failure, and erratic steering.
CAUTION: Suspension components with rubber/ure-
thane bushings (except stabilizer bar) should be
tightened with the vehicle at normal ride height. It is
important to have the springs supporting the weight
of the vehicle when the fasteners are torqued. If
springs are not at their normal ride position, vehicle
ride comfort could be affected and premature bush-
ing wear may occur.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SPRING AND
SHOCK
A knocking or rattling noise from a shock absorber
may be caused by movement between mounting
bushings and metal brackets or attaching compo-
nents. These noises can usually be stopped by tight-
ening the attaching nuts. If the noise persists,
inspect for damaged and worn bushings, and attach-
ing components. Repair as necessary if any of these
conditions exist.
A squeaking noise from the shock absorber may be
caused by the hydraulic valving and may be intermit-
tent. This condition is not repairable and the shock
absorber must be replaced.
The shock absorbers are not refillable or adjust-
able. If a malfunction occurs, the shock absorber
must be replaced. To test a shock absorber, hold it in
an upright position and force the piston in and out of
the cylinder four or five times. The action throughout
each stroke should be smooth and even.
The spring eye and shock absorber bushings do not
require any type of lubrication. Do not attempt to
stop spring bushing noise by lubricating them.
Grease and mineral oil-base lubricants will deterio-
rate the bushing rubber.
If the vehicle is used for severe, off-road operation,
the springs should be examined periodically. Check
for broken and shifted leafs, loose and missing clips,
and broken center bolts. Refer to Spring and Shock
Absorber Diagnosis chart for additional information.
BR/BEREAR 2 - 25

SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However, thin brake drums or substandard
brake lines and hoses can also cause a spongy pedal.
The proper course of action is to bleed the system,
and replace thin drums and substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster or check valve could
also be faulty.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation, or out of round brake drums. Other causes are
loose wheel bearings or calipers and worn or dam-
aged tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS/EBD activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake shoe release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface char-
ring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in
rotors and drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and
tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is
stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors and
drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires
and brake components will be extremely hot. In
severe cases, the lining may generate smoke as it
chars from overheating.
Common causes of brake drag are:
²Seized or improperly adjusted parking brake
cables
²Loose/worn wheel bearing
²Seized caliper or wheel cylinder piston
²Caliper binding on damaged or missing anti-rat-
tle clips or bushings
²Loose caliper mounting
²Drum brake shoes binding on worn/damaged
support plates
²Mis-assembled components²Long booster output rod
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem
may be related to a blocked master cylinder return
port, or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Damaged anti-rattle clips
²Improper brake shoes
²Damaged rotor
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
5 - 6 BRAKES - BASEBR/BE
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL (Continued)

mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or wheel cylinders, worn seals, driv-
ing through deep water puddles, or lining that has
become covered with grease and grit during repair.
Contaminated lining should be replaced to avoid fur-
ther brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors and drums can become so scored that replace-
ment is necessary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise. In addition, worn out,
improperly adjusted, or improperly assembled rear
brake shoes can also produce a thump noise.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MANUAL BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
(1) Remove reservoir filler caps and fill reservoir.
(2) If calipers, or wheel cylinders were overhauled,
open all caliper and wheel cylinder bleed screws.
Then close each bleed screw as fluid starts to drip
from it. Top off master cylinder reservoir once more
before proceeding.
(3) Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw
and insert opposite end in glass container partially
filled with brake fluid (Fig. 1). Be sure end of bleed
hose is immersed in fluid.
(4)
Open up bleeder, then have a helper press down
the brake pedal. Once the pedal is down close the
bleeder. Repeat bleeding until fluid stream is clear and
free of bubbles. Then move to the next wheel.
Fig. 1 Bleed Hose Setup
1 - BLEED HOSE
2 - FLUID CONTAINER PARTIALLY FILLED WITH FLUID
BR/BEBRAKES - BASE 5 - 7
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL (Continued)

ELECTRICAL/VEHICLE THEFT SECURITY - GEN-
ERAL INFORMATION) for more information on the
VTSS. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/POWER LOCKS -
GENERAL INFORMATION) for more information on
the RKE system.
HORN
DESCRIPTION
The standard single, low-note, electromagnetic dia-
phragm-type horn is secured with a bracket to the
right front fender wheel house extension in the
engine compartment. The high-note horn for the
optional dual-note horn system is connected in paral-
lel with and secured with a bracket just forward of
the low-note horn. Each horn is grounded through its
wire harness connector and circuit to a ground splice
joint connector, and receives battery feed through the
closed contacts of the horn relay.
The horns cannot be repaired or adjusted and, if
faulty or damaged, they must be individually
replaced.
OPERATION
Within the two halves of the molded plastic horn
housing are a flexible diaphragm, a plunger, an elec-
tromagnetic coil and a set of contact points. The dia-
phragm is secured in suspension around its
perimeter by the mating surfaces of the horn hous-
ing. The plunger is secured to the center of the dia-
phragm and extends into the center of the
electromagnet. The contact points control the current
flow through the electromagnet.
When the horn is energized, electrical current
flows through the closed contact points to the electro-
magnet. The resulting electromagnetic field draws
the plunger and diaphragm toward it until that
movement mechanically opens the contact points.
When the contact points open, the electromagnetic
field collapses allowing the plunger and diaphragm to
return to their relaxed positions and closing the con-
tact points again. This cycle continues repeating at a
very rapid rate producing the vibration and move-
ment of air that creates the sound that is directed
through the horn outlet.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HORN
For complete circuit diagrams, refer to the appro-
priate wiring information. The wiring information
includes wiring diagrams, proper wire and connector
repair procedures, details of wire harness routing
and retention, connector pin-out information and
location views for the various wire harness connec-
tors, splices and grounds.(1) Disconnect the wire harness connector(s) from
the horn connector receptacle(s). Measure the resis-
tance between the ground circuit cavity of the horn(s)
wire harness connector(s) and a good ground. There
should be no measurable resistance. If OK, go to Step
2. If not OK, repair the open ground circuit to ground
as required.
(2) Check for battery voltage at the horn relay out-
put circuit cavity of the horn(s) wire harness connec-
tor(s). There should be zero volts. If OK, go to Step 3.
If not OK, repair the shorted horn relay output cir-
cuit or replace the faulty horn relay as required.
(3) Depress the horn switch. There should now be
battery voltage at the horn relay output circuit cavity
of the horn(s) wire harness connector(s). If OK,
replace the faulty horn(s). If not OK, repair the open
horn relay output circuit to the horn relay as
required.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Disconnect the wire harness connector(s) from
the horn connector receptacle(s) (Fig. 1) .
(3) Remove the screw that secures the horn and
mounting bracket unit(s) to the right fender wheel
house front extension.
(4) Remove the horn and mounting bracket unit(s)
from the right fender wheel house front extension.
Fig. 1 Horns Remove/Install
1 - WIRE HARNESS CONNECTOR
2 - SCREWS
3 - INNER FENDER
4 - LOW NOTE HORN
5 - WIRE HARNESS CONNECTOR
6 - WHEELHOUSE EXTENSION
7 - HIGH NOTE HORN
8H - 2 HORNBR/BE
HORN (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - POWER STEERING SYSTEM
STEERING NOISE
There is some noise in all power steering systems. One of the most common is a hissing sound evident at a
standstill parking. Or when the steering wheel is at the end of it's travel. Hiss is a high frequency noise similar
to that of a water tap being closed slowly. The noise is present in all valves that have a high velocity fluid passing
through an orifice. There is no relationship between this noise and steering performance.
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
OBJECTIONAL HISS OR
WHISTLE1. Steering intermediate shaft to dash panel
seal.1. Check and repair seal at dash
panel.
2. Noisy valve in power steering gear. 2. Repair steering gear.
RATTLE OR CLUNK 1. Gear mounting bolts loose. 1. Tighten bolts to specification.
2. Loose or damaged suspension
components.2. Inspect and repair suspension.
3. Loose or damaged steering linkage. 3. Inspect and repair steering
linkage.
4. Internal gear noise. 4. Repair steering gear.
5. Pressure hose in contact with other
components.5. Reposition hose.
6. Loose or damaged intermediate shaft or
column.6. Inspect and repair or replace.
CHIRP OR SQUEAL 1. Loose belt. 1. Adjust or replace.
WHINE OR GROWL 1. Low fluid level. 1. Fill to proper level.
2. Pressure hose in contact with other
components.2. Reposition hose.
3. Internal pump noise. 3. Replace pump.
SUCKING AIR SOUND 1. Loose return line clamp. 1. Replace clamp.
2. O-ring missing or damaged on hose
fitting.2. Replace o-ring.
3. Low fluid level. 3. Fill to proper level.
4. Air leak between pump and reservoir. 4. Repair as necessary.
5. Reservoir cap not installed correctly. 5. Install reservoir cap correctly.
SCRUBBING OR
KNOCKING1. Wrong tire size. 1. Verify tire size.
2. Wrong gear. 2. Verify gear.
19 - 2 STEERINGBR/BE
STEERING (Continued)

BINDING AND STICKING
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
DIFFICULT TO TURN WHEEL
STICKS OR BINDS1. Low fluid level. 1. Fill to proper level.
2. Tire pressure. 2. Adjust tire pressure.
3. Steering components (ball
joints/tie rod ends).3. Lube, inspect and repair as
necessary.
4. Loose belt. 4. Adjust or replace.
5. Low pump pressure. 5. Pressure test and replace if
necessary.
6. Column shaft coupler binding. 6. Replace coupler.
7. Steering gear worn or out of
adjustment.7. Repair or replace gear.
INSUFFICIENT ASST. OR POOR RETURN TO CENTER
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
HARD TURNING OR MOMENTARY
INCREASE IN TURNING EFFORT1. Tire pressure. 1. Adjust tire pressure.
2. Low fluid level. 2. Fill to proper level.
3. Loose belt. 3. Adjust or replace.
4. Lack of lubrication. 4. Inspect and lubricate steering and
suspension compnents.
5. Low pump pressure. 5. Pressure test and repair as
necessary.
6. Internal gear leak. 6. Pressure and flow test, and repair
as necessary.
STEERING WHEEL DOES NOT
WANT TO RETURN TO CENTER
POSITION1. Tire pressure. 1. Adjust tire pressure.
2. Wheel alignment. 2. Align front end.
3. Lack of lubrication. 3. Inspect and lubricate steering and
suspension compnents.
4. High friction in steering gear. 4. Test and adjust gear as
necessary.
BR/BESTEERING 19 - 3
STEERING (Continued)

LOOSE STEERING AND VEHICLE LEAD
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
EXCESSIVE PLAY IN STEERING
WHEEL1. Worn or loose suspension or
steering components.1. Inspect and repair as necessary.
2. Worn or loose wheel bearings. 2. Inspect and repair or adjust
bearings.
3. Steering gear mounting. 3. Tighten gear mounting bolts to
specification.
4. Gear out of adjustment. 4. Adjust gear to specification.
5. Worn or loose steering coupler. 5. Inspect and replace as
necessary.
VEHICLE PULLS OR LEADS TO
ONE SIDE.1. Tire Pressure. 1. Adjust tire pressure.
2. Radial tire lead. 2. Rotate tires.
3. Brakes dragging. 3. Repair as necessary.
4. Wheel alignment. 4. Align front end.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - POWER STEERING
FLOW AND PRESSURE
The following procedure is used to test the opera-
tion of the power steering system on the vehicle. This
test will provide the flow rate of the power steering
pump along with the maximum relief pressure. Per-
form test any time a power steering system problem
is present. This test will determine if the power
steering pump or power steering gear is not function-
ing properly. The following pressure and flow test is
performed using Power Steering Analyzer Tool kit
6815 (Fig. 2) and Adapter Kit 6893.
POWER STEERING ANALYZER INSTALLATION
WITHOUT HYDRAULIC BOOSTER
(1) Remove the high pressure hose from the power
steering pump.
(2) Connect Tube 6844 into the pump hose fitting.
(3) Connect pressure gauge hose from the Power
Steering Analyzer to Tube 6844.
(4) Connect Adapter 6826 to Power Steering Ana-
lyzer test valve end.
(5) Connect the power steering hose from the
steering gear to Adapter 6826.
WITH HYDRAULIC BOOSTER
(1) Remove high pressure hose which goes to the
steering gear from the tube coming out of the booster.
(2) Connect Adapter 6826 to the Power Steering
Analyzer pressure gauge hose.
(3) Connect pressure gauge hose to the tube com-
ing out of the booster.
(4) Connect Tube 6844 to the steering gear hose
and Power Steering Analyzer test valve end.
FLOW AND PRESSURE TEST
(1) Check belt condition and tension.
(2) Open the test valve completely.
(3) Start engine and let idle long enough to circu-
late power steering fluid through flow/pressure test
gauge and to get air out of the fluid. Then shut off
engine.
(4) Check fluid level, add fluid as necessary. Start
engine again and let idle.
(5) Gauge should read below 1034 kPa (150 psi), if
above, inspect the hoses for restrictions and repair as
Fig. 2 Pressure Test Gauge
1 - GAUGE HOSE
2 - TUBE
3 - ADAPTER FITTINGS
4 - ANALYZER
19 - 4 STEERINGBR/BE
STEERING (Continued)