cooling DODGE RAM SRT-10 2006 Service Repair Manual

INSTALLATION
1. With engine raised SLIGHTLY, position the LH
insulator (2) to the mount. Install the bolts and
torque to specification.
2. With engine raised SLIGHTLY, position the RH
insulator (2) to the mount. Install the bolts and
torque to specification.
3. Lower the engine using tool # 8534, while guiding
the mount and thru-bolt into the frame mounted
support cushion brackets.
4. Install the thru bolt nut and tighten the nut to 95
Nꞏm (70 ft. lbs.) torque.
5. Remove the engine support fixture tool # 8534.
6. Lower the vehicle.
7. Install the viscous fan/drive assembly (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - INSTALLA-
TION).
8. Connect the battery negative cables.

CAUTION:
Two different styles of J-jet piston cooling nozzles and nozzle mounting fasteners are used, depending on
engine build date. The two designs are NOT interchangeable. One design uses an all metal piston cooling
nozzle (1) with a fluted mounting capscrew (3). The second design uses a plastic nozzle/body/locating arm
(5) , and a metal nozzle tip (4). The second design nozzle must be used with a banjo bolt (6). When replac-
ing piston cooling nozzles, it is important to replace the cooling nozzle mounting fastener with the same
type that was removed. Do not intermix both designs in the same engine. Severe engine damage can result
if the two designs are intermixed.

Oil is then carried across the block toan angle drilling which intersects the main oil rifle (3). The main oil rifle (3)
runs the length of the block and delivers oil to the crankshaft main journals and valve train. Oil travels to the crank-
shaft through a series of transfer drillings (one for each main bearing) and lubricates a groove in the main bearing
upper shell. From there another drilling feeds the camshaft main journals. J-jet piston cooling nozzles (1,4) are sup-
plied by a separate oil rifle. Plugs are used in place of saddle jets when J-jets are used. Crankshaft internal cross-
drillings supply oil to the connecting rod journals.

PUMP - ENGINE OIL
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the battery negative cables.
2. Remove fan/drive assembly (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL).
3. Remove the accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
4. Remove the fan support/hub assembly.
5. Remove crankshaft damper (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
REMOVAL) and speed indicator ring.
6. Remove power steering pump.
7. Remove accessory drive belt tensioner.
8. Remove the gear housing cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/GEAR HOUSING COVER
- REMOVAL).
9. Remove the four mounting bolts (2) and pull the oil pump (1) from the bore in the cylinder block.
CLEANING
Clean all parts in solvent and dry with compressed air. Clean the old sealerresidue from the back of the gear
housing cover and front of the gear housing.
INSPECTION
Disassemble and inspect the oil pump as follows:
1. Visually inspect the lube pump gears for chips,
cracks or excessive wear.
2. Remove the back plate (1).
3. Mark TOP on the gerotor planetary (3) using a felt
tip pen.
4. Remove the gerotor planetary (3) inspect for
excessive wear or damage. Inspect the pump
housing and gerotor drive (2) for damaged and
excessive wear.
5. Install the gerotor planetary in the original position.
6. Measure the tip clearance (1). Maximum clearance
is 0.1778 mm (0.007 inch). If the oil pump is out of
limits, replace the pump.

3. The back plate on the pump seats against the bot-
tom of the bore in the cylinder block. When the
pump is correctly installed, the flange on the pump
will not touch the cylinder block.
4. Measure the idler gear to pump drive gear back-
lash and the idler gear to crankshaft gear backlash.
The backlash should be 0.15- 0.25 mm
(0.006-0.010 inch). If the backlash is out of limits,
replace the oil pump.
5. If the adjoining gear moves when you measure the
backlash, the reading will be incorrect.
6. Apply a bead of Mopar
Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant or equivalent to the gear housing cover sealing sur-
face.
7. Install the gear housing cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/GEAR HOUSING COVER - INSTALLA-
TION).
8. Install the vibration damper (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER - INSTALLATION) and
speed indicator ring.
9. Install the fan support/hub assemblyRefer to (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - INSTALLA-
TION)
10. Install power steering pump.
11. Install accessory drive belt tensioner. Torque bolt to 43 Nꞏm (32 ft. lbs.).
12. Install the accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTALLATION).
13. Install the cooling fan (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - INSTALLATION).
14. Connect battery negative cables.
15. Start engine and check for oil leaks.

CASE - FRONT
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the battery negative cables.
2. Raise vehicle on hoist.
3. Partially drain engine coolant into container suitable for re-use (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
4. Lower vehicle.
5. Remove radiator upper hose.
6. Disconnect coolant recovery bottle hose from radiator filler neck.
7. Remove viscous fan/drive/shroud assembly (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL).
8. Remove the accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - REMOVAL).
9. Remove the cooling fan support/hub from the front of the engine.
10. Raisethevehicleonhoist.
11. Remove the crankshaft damper (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER - REMOVAL) and
speed indicator ring.
12. Remove the lower fan shroud bracket.
13. Remove the upper fan shroud bracket that is mounted to the gear housing.
14. Lower the vehicle.
15. Remove the power steering pump.
16. Remove the accessory drive belt tensioner.
17. Remove the gear cover-to-housing bolts and gently pry the cover away from the housing, taking care not to mar
the gasket surfaces.
18. Remove the fuel injection pump (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY/FUEL INJECTION PUMP -
REMOVAL).
19. Disconnect the camshaft position sensor connector.
20. Disconnect and remove engine speed sensor.
21. Remove the camshaft (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CAMSHAFT & BEARINGS (IN BLOCK) -
REMOVAL).
22. Remove the six front oil pan fasteners.
23. Remove the gear housing fasteners.
NOTE: Use care when removing the gear housing, to avoid damage to the oil pangasket, as the gasket will
be reused if it is not damaged.
24. Slide a feeler gauge between the gear housing and oil pan gasket, to break the gasket seal.
25. Remove the gear housing and gasket.
26. Clean the gasket material from the cylinder block and gear housing.

13. Remove the seal pilot. Install front seal dust shield.
14. Raise the vehicle.
15. Install the crankshaft damper and speed indicator ring (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION
DAMPER - INSTALLATION). Torque bolts to 40 Nm (30 ft. lbs.), plus an additional 60°.
16. Install the lower fan shroud bracket. Torque bolts to 24 Nꞏm (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
17. Install the upper fan shroud brackets. Hand tighten only.
18. Lower vehicle.
19. Install the fan support/hub assembly and tighten bolts to 32 Nꞏm (24 ft.lbs.) torque.
20. Install the power steering pump.
21. Install the accessory drive belt tensioner. Torque bolt to 43 Nꞏm (32 ft. lbs.) torque.
22. Install the accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTALLATION).
23. Install the upper cooling fan/drive/shroud assembly (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - INSTAL-
LATION).
24. Torque the upper fan shroud brackets to 24 Nꞏm (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
25. Connect the coolant recovery bottle hose to the radiator filler neck.
26. Install the radiator upper hose and clamps.
27. Add engine oil.
28. Add coolant (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
29. Connect the battery cables.
30. Start engine and inspect for leaks.

COVER - TIMING
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect both battery negative cables.
2. Raise vehicle on hoist.
3. Partially drain engine coolant into container suitable for re-use (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
4. Lower vehicle.
5. Remove radiator upper hose.
6. Remove viscous fan/drive/shroud assembly (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL).
7. Remove the accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - REMOVAL).
8. Remove the cooling fan support/hub from the front of the engine.
9. Raise the vehicle on hoist.
10. Remove power steering pump.
11. Remove accessory drive belt tensioner.
12. Remove the crankshaft damper and speed indicator ring (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION
DAMPER - REMOVAL).
13. Lower the vehicle.
14. Remove the gear cover-to-housing bolts and gently pry the cover away from the housing, taking care not to mar
the gasket surfaces.
INSTALLATION
1. Install a new front crankshaft oil seal.
2. Obtain a seal pilot (1) installation tool from a crank-
shaft front seal service kit and install the pilot into
the seal.
3. Apply a bead of Mopar
Silicone Rubber Adhesive
Sealant or equivalent to the gear housing cover. Be
sure to surround all through holes.
4. Using the seal pilot to (1) align the cover , install
the cover to the housing and install the bolts.
Tighten the bolts to 24 Nꞏm (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
5. Remove the seal pilot. Install front seal dust shield.
6. Raise the vehicle.
7. Install the speed indicator ring and the crankshaft damper (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION
DAMPER - INSTALLATION).
8. Lower vehicle.
9. Install the fan support/hub assy, and tighten bolts to 32 Nꞏm (24 ft. lbs.) torque.
10. Install power steering pump.
11. Install accessory drive belt tensioner. Torque bolt to 43 Nꞏm (32 ft. lbs.) torque.
12. Install the accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTALLATION).
13. Install the cooling fan/drive/shroud assembly (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - INSTALLA-
TION).
14. Install the radiator upper hose and clamps.
15. Add coolant (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
16. Connect the battery cables.
17. Start engine and inspect for leaks.

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
EXCESSIVE OIL
CONSUMPTION OR
SPARK PLUGS OIL
FOULED1. PCV system malfunction. 1. Check and repair PCV system as
necessary.
2. Defective valve stem seal(s). 2. Repair or replace seal(s).
3. Worn or broken piston rings. 3. Hone cylinder bores. Install new rings.
4. Scuffed pistons/cylinder walls. 4. Hone cylinder bores and replace pistons
as necessary.
5. Carbon in oil control ring groove. 5. Remove rings and de-carbon piston.
6. Worn valve guides. 6. Ream and install new valves with
oversize stems.
7. Piston rings fitted too tightly in
grooves.7. Remove piston rings. Check ring end
gap and side clearance. Replace as
necessary.
CYLINDER COMPRESSION PRESSURE TEST
The results of a cylinder compressionpressure test can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunctions.
Ensurethebatteryiscompletelychargedandtheenginestartermotorisingood operating condition. Otherwise the
indicated compression pressures may not be valid for diagnosis purposes.
1. Check engine oil level and add oil if necessary.
2. Drive the vehicle until engine reaches normal operating temperature. Select a route free from traffic and other
forms of congestion, observe all traffic laws, and accelerate through thegears several times briskly.
3. Remove the Auto Shut Down (ASD) relay from the Power Distribution Center(PDC).
4. Disconnect ignition cables from spark plugs.
5. Remove all spark plugs from engine. As spark plugs are being removed, check electrodes for abnormal firing
indicators fouled, hot, oily, etc. Record cylinder number of spark plug for future reference.
6. Be sure throttle blade is fully open during the compression check.
7. Insert compression gauge adaptor Special Tool 8116 or the equivalent, into the No. 1 spark plug hole in cylinder
head. Connect the 0-500 psi (Blue) pressure transducer (Special Tool CH7059) with cable adaptors to the scan
tool. For Special Tool identification, (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIAL TOOLS).
8. Crank engine until maximum pressure is reached on gauge. Record this pressure as No. 1 cylinder pressure.
9. Repeat the previous step for all remaining cylinders.
10. Compression should not be less than 689 kPa (100 psi) and not vary more than 25 percent from cylinder to
cylinder.
11. If one or more cylinders have abnormally low compression pressures, repeat the compression test.
12. If the same cylinder or cylinders repeat an abnormally low reading on the second compression test, it could
indicate the existence of a problem in the cylinder in question.The recommended compression pressures
are to be used only as a guide to diagnosing engine problems. An engine should not be disassembled
to determine the cause of low compression unless some malfunction is present.
CYLINDER COMBUSTIONPRESSURE LEAKAGE TEST
The combustion pressure leakage test provides an accurate means for determining engine condition.
Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect:
Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seating).
Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water jacket.
Any causes for combustion/compression pressure loss.
WARNING: Do not remove the cooling system pressure cap with the system hot and under pressure
because serious burns from coolant can occur.
1. Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO NOT install the pressurecap.
2. Start and operate the engine until it attains normal operating temperature, then turn the engine OFF.

3. Clean spark plug recesses with compressed air.
4. Remove the spark plugs.
5. Remove the oil fill cap.
6. Remove the air cleaner.
7. Calibrate the tester according to the manufacturer’s instructions. The shop air source for testing should maintain
483 kPa (70 psi) minimum, 1,379 kPa (200 psi) maximum, with 552 kPa (80 psi) recommended.
8. Perform the test procedures on each cylinder according to the tester manufacturer’s instructions. While testing,
listen for pressurized air escaping through the throttle body, tailpipe and oil filler cap opening. Check for bubbles
in the coolant pressure bottle.
All gauge pressure indications should be equal, with no more than 25 percent leakage per cylinder.
FOR EXAMPLE:At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pressure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be maintained in the
cylinder.
CYLINDER HEAD GASKET FAILURE DIAGNOSIS
A cylinder head gasket leak can be located between adjacent cylinders, between a cylinder and the adjacent water
jacket, or an external coolant leak may be present.
Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket leaking between adjacent cylinders are:
Loss of engine power
Engine misfiring
Poor fuel economy
Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket leaking between a cylinder and an adjacent water jacket are:
Engine overheating
Loss of coolant
Excessive steam (white smoke) emitting from exhaust
Coolant foaming
CYLINDER-TO-CYLINDER LEAKAGE TEST
To determine if an engine cylinder head gasket is leaking between adjacentcylinders, follow the procedures in Cyl-
inder Compression Pressure Test in this section. An engine cylinder head gasket leaking between adjacent cylinders
will result in approximately a 50-70% reduction in compression pressure.Cylinders adjacent to each other will both
have low compression.
CYLINDER-TO-WATER JACKET LEAKAGE TEST
WARNING: Use extreme caution when the engine is operating with coolant pressure cap removed.
VISUAL TEST METHOD
With the engine cool, remove the coolant pressure cap. Start the engine andallow it to warm up until thermostat
opens.
If a large combustion/compression pressure leak exists, bubbles will be visible in the coolant.
COOLING SYSTEM TESTER METHOD
WARNING: With cooling system tester in place, pressure will build up fast.Excessive pressure built up, by
continuous engine operation, must be released to a safe pressure point. Never permit pressure to exceed
138 kpa (20 psi).
Install Cooling System Tester 7700 or equivalent to pressure cap neck. Start the engine and observe the tester’s
pressure gauge. If gauge pulsates with every power stroke of a cylinder a combustion pressure leak is evident.