light DODGE RAM SRT-10 2006 Service Repair Manual

SEAL - CRANKSHAFT OIL - REAR
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the source of an oil leak in therear seal area of the engine, a more
involved inspection is necessary. The following steps should be followedto help pinpoint the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal area:
1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Raise the vehicle.
3. Remove torque converter or clutch housing cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil. Use a black light
to check for the oil leak:
a. Circular spray pattern generally indicates seal leakage or crankshaftdamage.
b. Where leakage tends to run straight down, possible causes are a porous block, oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter
runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating surfaces. See Engine, for proper repair procedures of
these items.
4. If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crankcase as outlined in the section, Inspection (Engine oil Leaks in
general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
5. If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the crankshaft and watch forleakage. If a leak is detected between
the crankshaft and seal while slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the crankshaft seal surface is damaged.
The seal area on the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches that canbe polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially machined to complement the function of the rear oil seal.
6. For bubbles that remain steady with shaft rotation, no further inspection can be done until disassembled. (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING), under the Oil Leak row, for components inspections on possible
causes and corrections.
7. After the oil leak root cause and appropriate corrective action have been identified, (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/EN-
GINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR - REMOVAL).
REMOVAL
NOTE: This procedure can be performed in vehi-
cle.
1. If being performed in vehicle, remove the transmis-
sion.
2. Remove the flexplate (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/EN-
GINE BLOCK/FLEX PLATE - REMOVAL).
NOTE: The crankshaft oil seal CAN NOT be reused
after removal.
NOTE: The crankshaft rear oil seal remover Spe-
cial Tool 8506 must be installed deeply into the
seal. Continue to tighten the removal tool into the
seal until the tool can not be turned farther. Fail-
ure to install tool correctly the first time will cause
tool to pull free of seal without removing seal from
engine.
3. Using Special Tool 8506 (2), remove the crankshaft rear oil seal (1)

ROD - PISTON & CONNECTING
DESCRIPTION
CAUTION: Do not use a metal stamp to mark connecting rods as damage may result, instead use ink or a
scratch awl.
Thepistonsaremadeofahighstrengthaluminumalloy.Theanodizedtopring groove and crown has been
replaced with a coated top ring that is blue in color on the bottom surface. Piston skirts are coated with a solid
lubricant (Molykote) to reduce friction and provide scuff resistance. The connecting rods are made of forged pow-
dered metal, with a “fractured cap” design. A pressed fit piston pin is usedto attach the piston and connecting rod.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PISTON FITTING
1. To correctly select the proper size piston, a cylinder
bore gauge (2), capable of reading in 0.003 mm (
.0001 in.) INCREMENTS is required. If a bore
gauge is not available, do not use an inside
micrometer.
2. Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder bore
(3) at a point 38.0 mm (1.5 inches) below top of
bore. Start perpendicular (across or at 90 degrees)
to the axis of the crankshaft at point A and then
take an additional bore reading 90 degrees to that
at point B.
3. The coated pistons (1,2) will be serviced with the
piston pin and connecting rod pre-assembled.
4. The coating material is applied to the piston after
the final piston machining process. Measuring the
outside diameter of a coated piston (1,2) will not
provide accurate results. Therefore measuring the
inside diameter of the cylinder bore with a dial Bore
Gauge isMANDATORY. To correctly select the
proper size piston, a cylinder bore gauge capable
of reading in 0.003 mm (.0001 in.) increments is
required.
5. Piston installation intothe cylinder bore requires
slightly more pressure than that required for non-
coated pistons. The bonded coating on the piston
will give the appearance of a line-to-line fit with the
cylinder bore.

INSTALLATION
CAUTION: To prevent severe damage to the Crank-
shaft, Damper or Special Tool 8512–A, thoroughly
clean the damper bore and the crankshaft nose
before installing Damper.
1. Align crankshaft damper slot with key in crankshaft.
Slide damper onto crankshaft slightly.
CAUTION: Special Tool 8512–A, is assembled in a
specific sequence. Failure to assemble this tool in
this sequence can result in tool failure and severe
damage to either the tool or the crankshaft.
2. Assemble Special Tool 8512–A as follows, The nut
(2) is threaded onto the shaft first. Then the roller
bearing (1) is placed onto the threaded rod (3)
(The hardened bearing surface of the bearing (1)
MUSTface the nut (2). Then the hardened washer (5) slides onto the threaded rod.Once assembled coat the
threaded rod’s threads with Mopar
Nickel Anti-Seize or equivalent.
3. Using Special Tool 8512–A, press damper onto
crankshaft (1).
4. Install then tighten crankshaft damper bolt to 175
Nꞏm (130 ft. lbs.).
5. Install fan blade assembly (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH -
INSTALLATION).
6. Install radiator upper shroud and tighten fasteners
to 11 Nꞏm (95 in. lbs.).
7. Connect electrical connector for shroud fan.
8. Install radiator upper hose.
9. Install accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTALLA-
TION).
10. Refill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
11. Connect negative cable to battery.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL LEAK
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the engine, particularly at thearea of the suspected leak. If an oil leak
source is not readily identifiable, thefollowingstepsshouldbefollowed:
1. Do not clean or degrease the engine at this time because some solvents maycause rubber to swell, temporarily
stopping the leak.
2. Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for approximately 15
minutes. Check the oil dipstick to make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated with a bright yellow color
under a black light.
3. Using a black light, inspect the entire engine for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area of oil leak. If
the oil leak is found and identified, repair per service manual instructions.
4. If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at various speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and repeat inspec-
tion.If the oil leak source is not positively identified at this time, proceed with the air leak detection test method.
Air Leak Detection Test Method
1. Disconnect the breather cap to air cleaner hose at the breather cap end. Cap or plug breather cap nipple.
2. Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head cover. Cap or plug the PCV valvegrommet.
3. Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to more than 20.6 kPa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
4. Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5 psi maximum while applyingsoapy water at the suspected source.
Adjust the regulator to the suitable test pressure that provide the best bubbles which will pinpoint the leak
source. If the oil leak is detected and identified, repair per service manual procedures.
5. If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area, refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area Leak.
6. If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps. Install the PCV
valve and breather cap hose.
7. Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various speeds approx-
imately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the engine for signs of an oil leak by usinga black light.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the source of an oil leak in therear seal area of the engine, a more
involved inspection is necessary. The following steps should be followedto help pinpoint the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal area:
1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Raise the vehicle.
3. Remove torque converter or clutch housing cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil. Use a black light
to check for the oil leak:
a. Circular spray pattern generally indicates seal leakage or crankshaftdamage.
b. Where leakage tends to run straight down, possible causes are a porous block, oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter
runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating surfaces.
4. If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crankcase as outlined in the, Inspection (Engine oil Leaks in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
5. If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the crankshaft and watch forleakage. If a leak is detected between
the crankshaft and seal while slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the crankshaft seal surface is damaged.
The seal area on the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches that canbe polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially machined to complement the function of the rear oil seal.
6. For bubbles that remain steady with shaft rotation, no further inspection can be done until disassembled.

FILTER - ENGINE OIL
REMOVAL
All engines are equipped with a high quality full-flow,
disposable type oil filter. DaimlerChrysler Corporation
recommends a Mopar
or equivalent oil filter be used.
1. Position a drain pan under the oil filter.
2. Using a suitable oil filter wrench loosen filter.
3. Rotate the oil filter counterclockwise to remove it
from the cylinder block oil filter boss.
4. When filter separates from cylinder block oil filter
boss, tip gasket end upward to minimize oil spill.
Remove filter from vehicle.
NOTE: Make sure filter gasket was removed with
filter.
5. With a wiping cloth, clean the gasket sealing sur-
face of oil and grime.
INSTALLATION
1. Lightly lubricate oil filter gasket (2) with engine oil.
2. Thread filter (3) onto adapter nipple. When gasket
makes contact with sealing surface, hand tighten
filter one full turn, do not over tighten.
3. Add oil, verify crankcase oil level and start engine.
Inspect for oil leaks.

MANIFOLD - EXHAUST
DESCRIPTION
The exhaust manifolds are log style with a patented flow enhancing design to maximize performance. The exhaust
manifolds are made of high silicon molybdenum cast iron. A perforated coregraphite exhaust manifold gasket is
used to improve sealing to the cylinder head. The exhaust manifolds are covered by a three layer laminated heat
shield for thermal protection and noise reduction. The heat shields are fastened with a torque prevailing nut that is
backed off slightly to allow for the thermal expansion of the exhaust manifold.
REMOVAL
RIGHT EXHAUST MANIFOLD
1. Disconnect negative cable for battery.
2. Remove air cleaner assembly, resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
3. Remove accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - REMOVAL).
4. Remove A/C compressor (Refer to 24 -HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/A/C COMPRESSOR -
REMOVAL).
5. Remove A/C accumulator support bracket fastener.
6. Drain coolant below heater hose level (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
7. Remove heater hoses at engine.
8. Remove fasteners(4,5) attaching exhaust manifold heat shield.
9. Remove heat shield.

INSTALLATION
1. Using a vise, lightly compress the secondary chain
tensioner piston until the piston step is flush with
the tensioner body. Using a pin or suitable tool,
release ratchet pawl by pulling pawl back against
spring force through access hole on side of ten-
sioner. While continuing to hold pawl back, Push
ratchet device to approximately 2 mm from the ten-
sioner body. Install Special Tool 8514 lock pin (3)
into hole on front of tensioner (2). Slowly open vise
to transfer piston spring force to lock pin.
2. Position primary chain tensioner over oil pump and insert bolts into lower two holes on tensioner bracket. Tighten
bolts to 28 Nꞏm (250 in. lbs.).
CAUTION: Overtightening the tensioner arm torx
bolt can cause severe damage to the cylinder head.
Tighten torx
bolt to specified torque only.
3. Install right side chain tensioner arm. Apply Mopar
Lock N, Seal to torxbolt, tighten bolt to 17 Nꞏm (150 in.
lbs.).
NOTE: The silver bolts retain the guides to the cylinder heads and the blackbolts retain the guides to the
engine block.
4. Install the left side chain guide. Tighten the bolts to 28 Nꞏm (250 in. lbs.).
CAUTION: Overtightening the tensioner arm torx
bolt can cause severe damage to the cylinder head.
Tighten torx
bolt to specified torque only.
5. Install left side chain tensioner arm. Apply Mopar
Lock N, Seal to torxbolt, tighten bolt to 17 Nꞏm (150 in. lbs.).
6. Install the right side chain guide. Tighten the bolts to 28 Nꞏm (250 in. lbs.).

7. Install both secondary chains onto the idler
sprocket. Align two plated links on the secondary
chains to be visible through the two lower openings
on the idler sprocket (4 o’clock and 8 o’clock).
Once the secondary timing chains are installed,
position special tool 8515 (6) to hold chains in
place for installation.
8. Align primary chain double plated links with the tim-
ingmarkat12o’clock(1)ontheidlersprocket.
Align the primary chain single plated link with the
timing mark at 6 o’clock on the crankshaft sprocket
(3).
9. Lubricate idler shaft and bushings with clean
engine oil.
10. Install all chains, crankshaft sprocket, and idler
sprocket as an assembly. After guiding both sec-
ondary chains through the block and cylinder
head openings, affix chains with a elastic strap or
the equivalent, This will maintain tension on
chains to aid in installation.
NOTE: It will be necessary to slightly rotate cam-
shafts for sprocket installation.
11. Align left camshaft sprocket “L” dot to plated link
on chain.
12. Align right camshaft sprocket “R” dot to plated link
on chain.
CAUTION: Remove excess oil from the camshaft
sprocket bolt. Failure to do so can result in over-
torque of bolt resulting in bolt failure.
13. Remove Special Tool 8515, then attach both sprockets to camshafts. Remove excess oil from bolts, then Install
sprocket bolts, but do not tighten at this time.
14. Verify that all plated links are aligned with the marks on all sprocketsand the “V8” marks on camshaft sprockets
are at the 12 o’clock position.
CAUTION: Ensure the plate between the left secondary chain tensioner and block is correctly installed.
15. Install both secondary chain tensioners. Tighten bolts to 28 Nꞏm (250 in. lbs.).
NOTE: Left and right secondary chain tensioners are not common.
16. Before installing idler sprocketbolt, lubricate washer with oil, andtighten idler sprocket assembly retaining bolt
to 34 Nꞏm (25 ft. lbs.).
17. Remove all locking pins from tensioners.
CAUTION: After pulling locking pins out of each tensioner, DO NOT manuallyextend the tensioner(s)
ratchet. Doing so will over tension thechains, resulting in noise and/or high timing chain loads.

ENGINE - 5.7L - SERVICE INFORMATION
DESCRIPTION
The 5.7L engine (345 CID) eight-cylinder engine is a 90° V-Type lightweight, deep skirt cast iron block, aluminum
heads, single cam, overhead valve engine with hydraulic roller tappets. The heads incorporate splayed valves with
a hemispherical style combustion chamber and dual spark plugs. The cylinders are numbered from front to rear; 1,
3, 5, 7 on the left bank and 2, 4, 6, 8 on the right bank. The firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - INTRODUCTION
Engine diagnosis is helpful in determining the causes of malfunctions notdetected and remedied by routine main-
tenance.
These malfunctions may be classified as either performance (e.g., engineidles rough and stalls) or mechanical
(e.g., a strange noise).
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING) - PERFORMANCE and (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING)—MECHANICAL for possible causes and corrections of malfunctions. (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/
FUEL DELIVERY - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING) and (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL INJECTION - DIAGNO-
SIS AND TESTING) for the fuel system diagnosis.
Additional tests and diagnostic procedures may be necessary for specificengine malfunctions that can not be iso-
lated with the Service Diagnosis charts. Information concerning additional tests and diagnosis is provided within the
following diagnosis:
Cylinder Compression Pressure Test (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
Cylinder Combustion Pressure LeakageTest (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSISAND TESTING).
Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Failure Diagnosis (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
Intake Manifold Leakage Diagnosis (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKEMANIFOLD - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - PERFORMANCE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
ENGINE WILL NOT START 1. Weak battery 1. Charge or replace as necessary.
2. Corroded or loose battery
connections.2. Clean and tighten battery
connections. Apply a coat of light
mineral grease to the terminals.
3. Faulty starter. 3. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
STARTING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
4. Faulty coil or control unit. 4. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION
COIL - REMOVAL).
5. Incorrect spark plug gap. 5. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG
- CLEANING).
6. Dirt or water in fuel system. 6. Clean system and replace fuel
filter.
7. Faulty fuel pump, relay or wiring. 7. Repair or replace as necessary.

VALVES & SEATS - INTAKE/EXHAUST
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION - VALVE GUIDES
The valve guides are made of powdered metal and are pressed into the cylinder head. The guides are not replace-
able or serviceable, and valve guide reaming is not recommended. If the guides are worn beyond acceptable limits,
replace the cylinder heads.
DESCRIPTION
Both the intake and exhaust valves are made of steel. The intake valve is 50.93 mm (2.00 inches) in diameter and
the exhaust valve is 39.53 mm (1.55 inches) in diameter. All valves use three bead lock keepers to retain the
springs and promote valve rotation.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFACING
NOTE: Valve seats that are worn or burned can be reworked, provided that correct angle and seat width are
maintained. Otherwise the cylinder head must be replaced.
NOTE: When refacing valves and valve seats, it is important that the correct size valve guide pilot be used
for reseating stones. A true and complete surface must be obtained.
1. Using a suitable dial indicator measure the center of the valve seat Total run out must not exceed 0.051 mm
(0.002 in).
2. Apply a small amount of Prussian blue to the valve seat, insert the valve into the cylinder head, while applying
light pressure on the valve rotate the valve. Remove the valve and examine the valve face. If the blue is trans-
ferred below the top edge of the valve face, lower the valve seat using a 15 degree stone. If the blue is trans-
ferred to the bottom edge of the valve face, raise the valve seat using a 65 degree stone.
3. When the seat is properly positioned the width of the intake seat must be 1.018 - 1.62 mm (0.0464 - 0.0637 in.)
and the exhaust seat must be 1.48 - 1.92 mm (0.058 - 0.075 in.).
4. Check the valve spring installed height after refacing the valve and seat.Theinstalledheightforbothintakeand
exhaust valve springs must not exceed 46.0 mm (1.81 in.).
VALVE FACE AND VALVE SEAT ANGLE CHART
DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
SEAT WIDTH
INTAKE 1.018 - 1.62 mm
(0.0464 - 0.0637 in.)
EXHAUST 1.48 - 1.92 mm
(0.058 - 0.075 in.)
FA C E A N G L E
(INT. AND EXT.) 45° - 45
1⁄2°
SEAT ANGLE
(INT. AND EXT.) 44
1⁄2° - 45°