lock DODGE RAM SRT-10 2006 Service Repair Manual

INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The seal lip and the sealing surface on
thecrankshaftmustbefreeofalloilresidue,to
prevent leaks. The crankshaft and seal surface
must be completely dry when the seal is installed.
1. Clean cover and housing gasket mating surfaces.
Use a suitable scraper and be careful not to dam-
age the gear housing surface. Remove any old
sealer from the oil seal bore. Thoroughly clean the
front seal area of the crankshaft. Do not sand this
surface. The seal lip and the sealing surface on the
crankshaft must be free from all oil residue to pre-
vent seal leaks.
2. Inspect the gear housing and cover for cracks and
replace if necessary. Carefully straighten any bends
or imperfections in the gear cover with a ball-peen
hammer on a flat surface. Inspect the crankshaft
front journal for any grooves or nicks that would
affect the integrity of the new seal.
3. Apply a bead of Mopar
Stud & Bearing Mount to
the outside diameter of the seal. Do not lubricate the inside diameter of thenewseal.
4. With the cover supported by wood blocks, install the seal into the rear ofthe cover using crankshaft seal installer
Special Tool 8281 and driver handle C-4171. Strike the driver handle untilthe installation tool bottoms out on the
inside of the cover.
CAUTION: Do not distort or damage seal.
5. Install the plastic seal pilot (provided with seal kit)
into the crankshaft seal.
6. Apply a bead of Mopar
Silicone Rubber Adhesive
Sealant or equivalent to the gear housing cover
sealing surface.
7. Install the cover to the gear housing, aligning the
seal pilot with the nose of the crankshaft.
NOTE: Failure to follow the cover installation pro-
cedure can result in misalignment of the crank-
shaft seal to the crankshaft, causing an oil leak.
8. Install the cover bolts and hand snug 2 capscrews
at the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock position, to keep the
cover from moving when the first capscrew is
torqued. Torque to 24 Nꞏm (18 ft. lbs.) torque. Remove pilot tool.
9. Install dust shield over nose of crankshaft.
10. Install the crankshaft damper and speed indicator ring. Torque the bolts to 40 Nꞏm (30 ft. lbs.). Then rotate an
additional 60°. Use the engine barring tool to keep the engine from rotating during tightening operation.
11. Install the fan support/hub assembly and torque bolts to 32 Nꞏm (24 ft. lbs.).
12. Install power steering pump.
13. Install accessory drive belt tensioner. Torque bolt to 43 Nꞏm (32 ft.lbs.).
14. Install cooling fan (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - INSTALLATION).
15. Install the accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTALLATION).
16. Refill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
17. Connect battery negative cables.

SEAL - CRANKSHAFT OIL - REAR
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the battery negative cables.
2. Remove the transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
3. Remove the clutch cover and disc (if manual trans-
mission equipped) (Refer to 6 - CLUTCH/CLUTCH
DISC - REMOVAL).
4. Remove the flywheel or converter drive plate.
5. Remove the flywheel adapter plate.
6. Drill holes 180° apart into the seal. Be careful not
to contact the drill against the crankshaft.
7. Install # 10 sheet metalscrews (1) in the drilled
holes and remove the rear seal with a slide ham-
mer (4).
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The seal lip and the sealing surface on the crankshaft must be freefrom all oil residue to prevent
seal leaks. The crankshaft and seal surfaces must be completely dry when the seal is installed. Use a soap
and water solution on outside diameter of seal to ease assembly.
1. Clean the crankshaft journal with a suitable solvent and dry with a cleanshop towel or compressed air. Wipe the
inside bore of the crankshaft seal retainer with a clean shop towel.
2. Inspect the crankshaft journal forgouges, nicks, or other imperfections. If the seal groove in the crankshaft is
excessively deep, install the new seal 1/8” deeper into the retainer bore,or obtain a crankshaft wear sleeve that
is available in the aftermarket.
3. Install the seal pilot and new seal, provided in the replacement kit, onto the crankshaft.
4. Remove the seal pilot.
5. Install the installation tool over crankshaft.
6. Using a ball peen hammer, strike the tool (2) at the
12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock positions until the alignment
tool bottoms out on the retainer.
NOTE: Always install a new clamping ring, never
reuse the old clamping ring.
7. Install the flywheel or converter drive plate, and
clamping ring. Tighten the bolts to 137 Nꞏm (101 ft.
lbs.) torque.
8. Install the clutch cover and disc (if equipped)
(Refer to 6 - CLUTCH/CLUTCH DISC - INSTALLA-
TION).
9. Install the transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
10. Lower vehicle.
11. Connect battery negative cables.
12. Check engine oil level and adjust, if necessary.
13. Start engine and check for oil leaks.

RETAINER - CRANK REAR OIL SEAL
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the battery negative cables.
2. Raise vehicle on hoist.
3. Remove the oil pan drain plug and drain the engine
oil. Re-install plug and torque to 50 Nꞏm (44 ft. lbs.)
torque.
4. Remove transmission and transfer case (if
equipped) from vehicle.
5. Remove flywheel or torque converter drive plate.
6. Remove flywheel adapter plate.
7. Disconnect starter cables from starter motor.
8. Remove starter motor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL) and
transmission adapter plate assembly.
9. Remove four 4 oil pan rear bolts. Slide a feeler
gauge between the seal retainer and oil pan gasket
to break the seal.
10. Remove the six 6 retainer-to-block bolts (3).
11. Remove the rear seal retainer, and gasket (2).
12. Support the seal retainer and drive out the crankshaft seal with a hammer and suitable punch.
INSTALLATION
1. If using the old seal retainer, the crankshaft seal
must be replaced.
2. Inspect oil pan gasket for nicks or cuts. If gasket is
damaged, the oil pan must be removed and gasket
must be replaced. Wipe oil pan gasket dry and
apply light coating of RTV.
3. Using the retainer alignment/seal installation tool
provided in the seal service kit, install the align-
ment tool into the retainer and install to the cylinder
block, using a new gasket. Tighten the six (6)
mounting bolts by hand.
4. The seal alignment tool is used to align rear cover
properly. Starting with the center two bolts, tighten
the retainer in a circular pattern to 10 Nꞏm (89 in.
lbs.). Remove the alignment tool.

CAUTION: The seal lip and the sealing surface on
the crankshaft must be free from all oil residue to
prevent seal leaks. The crankshaft and seal sur-
faces must be completely dry when the seal is
installed. Use a soap and water solution on out-
side diameter of seal to ease assembly.
5. Make sure the provided seal pilot (1) is installed
into the new crankshaft seal (3). Use the align-
ment/installation tool and press the seal onto the
crankshaft. Alternately drive the seal at the 12, 3, 6
and 9 o’clock positions.
6. Remove the alignment tool and trim the retainer
gasket (1) even with the oil pan mounting surface.
7. Remove the seal pilot.
8. Apply a small amount of Mopar
Silicone Rubber
Adhesive Sealant to the oil pan rail T-joints.
9. Install the four (4) oil pan rear mounting bolts and
torque to 28 Nꞏm (21 ft. lbs.).
10. Install new rectangular ring seal for cam bore.
11. Install the flywheel housing and bolts. Torque
boltsto77Nꞏm(57ft.lbs.).
12. Install the flywheel housing and bolts. Torque
boltsto77Nꞏm(57ft.lbs.).
NOTE: A new clamping ring must be used on early
or late builds, automatic or manual. Do not reuse
clamping ring.
13. Install the dual mass flywheel with crankshaft adapter. Tighten boltsto 137 Nꞏm (101 ft. lbs.).
14. Install the starter motor Refer to (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/STARTING/STA R T E R M O TO R - I N S TA L L AT I O N ) .
15. Install the transmission and transfer case (if equipped).
16. Lower vehicle.
17. Fill the crankcase with new engine oil.
18. Connect the battery negative cables.
19. Start engine and check for oil leaks.

TAPPETS - VALVE
REMOVAL
NOTE: This procedure requires use of Miller Tool
8502 Tappet Replacement Kit.
1. Remove camshaft (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE
BLOCK/CAMSHAFT & BEARINGS (IN BLOCK) -
REMOVAL).
2. Insert the trough (1) (provided with tool kit) the full
length of the camshaft bore. Make sure the cap
end goes in first and the open side faces up
(towards tappets).
3.Remove only one tappet at a time.Remove rub-
ber band from one cylinder pair and attach tappet
dowel not being removed to the next cylinder pair.
4. Raise dowel rod (disengage from tappet) and allow
tappet to fall into trough.
5. Carefully remove trough(do not rotate)and tap-
pet. If the tappet is not being replaced, mark it so it
can be installed in its original location.

6. With the tappet in place, rotate the trough one half
turn so the open side is down (toward crankshaft).
7. Remove the tappet installation tool from the tappet.
8. Re-install a dowel rod and secure the rod with a
rubber band.
9. Rotate the trough one half turn and repeat the pro-
cedure for the remaining tappets.
10. Install the camshaft (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/EN-
GINE BLOCK/CAMSHAFT & BEARINGS (IN
BLOCK) - INSTALLATION).

REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the battery cables.
2. Remove the cylinder head (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - REMOVAL).
3. Remove the oil pan and suction tube (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OILPA N - R E M O VA L ) .
4. Remove bolts and the block stiffener.
5. Using Miller Tool 7471-B crankshaft barring tool, rotate the crankshaft so all of the pistons are below TDC.
6. Before removing the piston(s) from the bore(s):
a. Remove any carbon ridge formations or deposits at the top of the bore witha dull scraper or soft wire brush.
b. If cylinder bore wear ridges are found, use a ridge reamer to cut the ridgefrom the bore. DO NOT remove
more metal than necessaryto remove the ridge.
7. Remove the J-jet cooling nozzles.
NOTE: If cylinders have ridges, the cylinders are oversize and will more than likely need boring.
8. Using a hammer and steel stamp, stamp the cylinder number in the top of eachpiston.Thefrontofthepiston
is identified by a stamping on the top of the piston. DO NOT stamp in the outside 5 mm (.197 in.) of the piston
diameter. DO NOT stamp over the piston pin.
9. Mark the connecting rod and cap with the corresponding cylinder numbers.
10. Remove the connecting rod bolts and rod caps. Use care so the cylinder bores and connecting rods are not
damaged.
11. Use a hammer handle or similar object to push the piston and connecting rod through the cylinder bore.
12. Store the piston/rod assemblies in a rack.
CLEANING—PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD
CAUTION: DO NOT use bead blast to clean the pistons. DO NOT clean the pistonsandrodsinanacidtank.
PISTON
Clean the pistons and pins in a suitable solvent, rinse in hot water and blowdry with compressed air. Soaking the
pistons over night will loosen most of the carbon build up. De-carbon the ringgrooveswithabrokenpistonringand
again clean the pistons in solvent. Rinse in hot water and blow dry with compressed air.
CONNECTING ROD
Clean the connecting rods in a suitable solvent, rinse in hot water and blowdry with compressed air.
INSPECTION
INSPECTION - PISTONS
PISTON SKIRT DIAMETER (MIN.)
101.775 mm (4.006 in. )
Inspect the pistons for damage and excessive wear. Check top of the piston,ring grooves, skirt and pin bore. Mea-
sure the piston skirt diameter. If the piston is out of limits, replace the piston.

INSPECTION - CONNECTING ROD
Inspect the connecting rod for damage and wear. The
I-Beam section of the connecting rod cannot have
dents or other damage. Damage to this part can
cause stress risers which will progress to breakage.
Measure the connecting rod pin bore (1). The maxi-
mum diameter is 40.042 mm (1.5765 inch), minimum
diameter is 40.019 mm (1.5756 inch). If out of limits,
replace the connecting rod.
INSTALLATION
1. Lubricate the cylinder bores with clean engine oil.
2. Generously lubricate the rings and piston skirts
with clean engine oil.
3. Orientate the rings on the piston (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/PISTON RINGS - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
4. Compress the rings using a piston ring compressor
tool(1).Ifusingastrap-typeringcompressor,
make sure the inside end of the strap does not
hook on a ring gap and break the ring.
5. Bar the crankshaft so the rod journal for the piston
to be installed is at BDC(Bottom Dead Center).
6. Make sure the front of the piston is oriented prop-
erly according to the marking on the top of the pis-
ton and the connecting rod is oriented properly.
7. Position the piston and rod assemblyinto the cylinder bore with the front of the piston oriented properly accord-
ing to the stamping in the top of the piston. Use care when you install the piston and connecting rod so the
cylinder bore is not damaged. The long side of the connecting rod must be installed on the intake side of the
engine.
8. Push the piston into the bore until the top of the piston is approximately50 mm (2 inch) below the top of the
block. Carefully pull the connecting rod onto the crankshaft journal.
9. Use clean engine oil to lubricate the threads and under the heads of the connecting rod bolts.
10.For fractured/split type connecting rods,thelongendoftherodmustbeinstalledtowardstheintakesideof
the engine.

a. The connecting rod split/face mustface toward the same side as the piston notch feature on the skirt. The
split face will face toward the exhaust side of the engine if properly installed.
11. Install the rod cap and bolts to the connecting rod. Tighten the connecting rod bolts evenly in 3 steps.
Tighten the bolts to 30 Nꞏm (22 ft. lbs.) torque.
Tighten the bolts to 60 Nꞏm (44 ft. lbs.) torque.
Rotate 60° clockwise.
12. The crankshaft must rotate freely. Check for freedom of rotation as thecaps are installed. If the crankshaft does
not rotate freely, check the installation of the rod bearing and the bearingsize.
13. Measure the side clearance between the connecting rod and the crankshaft. DO NOT measure the clearance
between the cap and crankshaft.
14. Install J-jet piston cooling nozzles.
15. Install block stiffener. Torque to 43 Nꞏm (32 ft. lbs.).
16. Install the suction tube and oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLATION).
17. Install the cylinder head onto the engine (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDERHEAD - INSTALLATION).
18. Install a new filter and fill the crankcase with new engine oil.Prefill the filter with clean oil.
19. Connect the battery negative cables and start engine.

MOUNT - FRONT
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the battery negative cables.
2. Remove the viscous fan/drive assembly (Refer to 7
- COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN -
REMOVAL).
3. Raise vehicle on hoist.
4. Install engine support fixture tool# 8534 and steel
bracket tool # 8534A
5. Loosen the thru-bolt and nut.
6. Lift the engine SLIGHTLY and remove the insulator
to block bolts.
7. Remove the RH insulator (2) from the vehicle.
8. Remove the LH insulator (2) from the vehicle.