check engine FIAT TEMPRA 1988 Service And User Guide

Thanks
are due to the excellent, knowledgeable and helpful staff at FIAT main dealers, Ryauto of Amblecote, in the West
Midlands for supplying vehicles and for their assistance with this chapter. In particular, thanks are due to the efficient Maurice
Hough, Service Manager, the experienced Foreman, Tony Morris, and young demon mechanic, Matthew Worsfold.
Some of the suggested inspection/replacement intervals may not correspond to those shown in the original handbook. The suggested
schedule, based on FIAT'S recommendations, takes into account the age of the vehicle and the annual MoT test in the UK.
In practice, because of the split between (mainly) 12 month/9,000 mile and 18 month/13,500 mile intervals, you will need to
service your Tipo or Tempra at most, if not every, 6 month interval.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Each service should be carried out at EITHER the recommended mileage OR the recommended time
interval, whichever comes first.
SERVICE INTERVAL CHART
SERVICE INTERVALS: KEY
A
-
Every week, or before every long journey. F
-
Every 3 years or 27,000 miles.
B
-
Every 6 months, or 4,500 miles. G
-
Every 4 years or 36,000 miles.
C - Every 12 months, or 9,000 miles. H
-
Every 6 years or 54,000 miles.
I
-
Every 63,000 miles. D - Every 18 months , or 13,500 miles.
H
-
Every 6 years or 54,000 miles.
I
-
Every 63,000 miles.
E
-
Every 2 years or 18,000 miles J
-
Every 72,000 miles.
PART A: REGULAR CHECKS
SERVICE INTERVALS
Job 1. Engine oil
-
check level A
Job 2. Cooling system
-
check level A
Job 3. Brake/clutch fluid
-
check level A
Job 4. Battery
-
check electrolyte level A
Job 5. Screen washer fluid
-
check level A
Job 6. Tyres
-
check pressures and
condition (road wheels) A
Job 7. Check lights/change bulbs A
PART B: THE ENGINE AND
COOLING SYSTEM
Job 8
-
Petrol. Change engine oil and filter C
Job 8
-
Diesel. Change engine oil and filter B
Job 9. Check crankcase ventilation H
Job 10. Check/adjust valve clearances D
Job 11. Check camshaft timing belt F
Job 12. Change camshaft timing belt I
Job 13. Check cooling system C
Job 14. Change engine coolant E
PART C: TRANSMISSION
Job 15. Check manual gearbox oil level C
Job 16. Change manual gearbox oil J
Job 17. Check auto, transmission fluid level C
Job 18. Change auto, transmission
fluid and filter F
Job 19. Check driveshaft gaiters C
Job 20. Check/adjust clutch C
Job 21. Check auto, transmission selector
cable E
PART D: IGNITION AND ELECTRICS
SERVICE INTERVALS
Job 22. Check/clean/gap spark plugs B
Job 23. Change spark plugs D
Job 24. Check/clean HT leads and
distributor cap C
Job 25. Check ignition timing C
Job 26. Check/adjust drive belt/s D
Job 27. Check electric fan operation C
Job 28. Run diagnostic ignition/injection test D
PART E: FUEL AND EXHAUST
Job 29. Check fuel pipes for leaks C
Job 30. Change petrol air filter D
Job 31. Change diesel air filter C
Job 32. Change petrol fuel filter F
Job 33. Drain diesel fuel filter B
Job 34. Change diesel fuel filter C
Job 35. Check/adjust petrol engine idle
and emissions C
Job 36. Check emission/evaporative/EGR systems F
Job 37. Check Lambda sensor F
Job 38. Check/adjust diesel idle speed C
Job 39. Check/adjust diesel injection timing E
Job 40. Check inlet and exhaust manifold fixings D
Job 41. Check exhaust system C
PART F: STEERING AND
SUSPENSION
Job 42. Check front wheel bearings C
Job 43. Check front suspension C
Job 44. Check steering column, joints and rack C
Job 45. Check power steering fluid C
Job 46. Check rear wheel bearings C
Job 47. Check rear suspension C
Job 48. Check wheel bolts for tightness C

PART G: BRAKING SYSTEM
Job 49. Check front brakes
Job 50. Check rear brakes
Job 51. Check/adjust handbrake
Job 52. Check brake pipes
Job 53. Change brake hydraulic fluid
SERVICE INTERVALS
C
C
C
C
E
Job 56. Check seat and seat belt mountings C
Job 57. Check headlight alignment C
Job 58. Check underbody C
Job 59. Check spare tyre B
Job 60. Change pollen filter C
Job 61. Replace airbag gas generator 10 years
PART I: ROAD TEST
PART H: BODYWORK & INTERIOR
Job 54. Lubricate hinges and locks
Job 55. Check windscreen
Job 62. Road test and specialist check. AFTER EVERY
SERVICE

ENGINE BAY LAYOUTS
These are the engine bay layouts common to almost all Tipo/Tempras. Note that there is no carburettor fitted to fuel-injected
vehicles.
1 - PETROL ENGINES 2 - DIESEL ENGINES
1
-
oil filler cap 7
-
distributor (ignition) 12 - oil filter location
2
-
engine oil dipstick 8
-
coil (ignition) 13
-
fuel pump (mechanical)
3
-
coolant filler cap 9
-
electronic control unit (ECU), 14
-
diesel injection pump
4 - brake fluid reservoir Digiplex 2 15
-
alternator location (behind engine)
5 - battery 10
-
air filter housing
6
-
screenwash reservoir cap 11
-
fuel filter
PART A: REGULAR CHECKS
1B. ...and the diesel's
dipstick is in a similar
spot, located at the
front edge of the
timing cover, behind
the right-hand
headlight.
Q INSIDE INFORMATION: The
difference between MIN and MAX
marks is approximately one litre of
oil. Q
We recommend that these Jobs are carried out on a weekly
basis, as well as before every long journey. They consist of
checks essential for your safety and for your car's reliability.
• Job 1. Engine oil
-
check level.
Check the engine oil level with the car on level ground. If the
engine has been running, leave it turned off for several
minutes to let the oil drain into the sump.
1A. All petrol engines
have the dipstick at
the front of the block,
towards the timing
belt end...
1C. Lift the dipstick out,
wipe it dry and re-insert it. The oil
level is correct when between the
MAX and MIN marks.

TOPPING-UP
1D. On petrol
engines the oil
filler cap is pull-
out rectangular
plug at the end
of the rocker
On diesel engines, the round cap is near the same end of the
cam cover. This cap is removed by turning a quarter-turn to
the left and lifting.
DIESEL ENGINES
Top-up, if necessary using a 50:50 mixture of distilled water
and Paraflu anti-freeze.
cover adjacent to
the distributor.
Note that on some models, the cap is circular.
1E. Pour in the
fresh oil carefully,
preferably using a
funnel. A clean
plastic bottle with
the bottom cut
off is ideal!
IMPORTANT NOTE: Regularly check the ground over
which the car has been parked for traces of oil or other
fluid leaks. If a leak is found, don't drive the car without
first finding out where the leak is from, and ideally,
repairing it.
G Job 2. Cooling system
-
check level.
SAFETY FIRST!
• ALWAYS check the coolant level with the engine
COLD
• If the engine is hot there is a real danger of

scalding
from boiling coolant gushing from the tank
when the cap is removed.
Never allow the coolant level to fall below the MIN (or UVELLO
A FREDDO) mark on the expansion tank. It is vitally important
that all engines have the correct proportion of anti-freeze in
the coolant all year round to prevent corrosion. A 50% mix of
distilled water with FL Paraflu coolant gives the best
protection.
• Job 3. Brake/dutch fluid
-
check level/s.
IMPORTANT NOTE: On later models, a hydraulic clutch is
fitted. The same fluid reservoir serves both brakes and
clutch.
SAFETY FIRST!
• If brake fluid should come into contact with skin or
eyes, rinse immediately with plenty of water.
• It is acceptable for the brake fluid level to fall
slightly during normal use, but if it falls significantly
below the MIN mark on the reservoir there is probably
a leak or internal seal failure. Stop using the car until
the problem has been put right.
• If you let dirt get into the hydraulic system it can
cause brake failure. Wipe the filler cap clean before
removing it.
• You should only ever use new brake fluid from a
sealed container
-
FIAT recommend FL Tutela Top 4
brake fluid. Old fluid absorbs moisture and this could
cause the brakes to fail when carrying out an
emergency stop or during another heavy use of the
brakes
-
just when you need them most and are least
able to do anything about it, in fact!
On all models the brake fluid reservoir is positioned above the
master cylinder either in the rear right-hand or rear left-hand
corner of the engine bay, according to model. The reservoir is
semi-transparent so the level can be checked without
disturbing the cap.
PETROL ENGINES
2A. The coolant should be just
below the remote header tank
filler neck
-
about 25 mm
(1
in)
above the MIN (or UVELLO A
FREDDO) mark on the tank
(arrowed). This is the header tank
(screw-on cap, removed), on the
passenger-side of the engine bay,

at
the very front of the engine
bay.
3. If brake fluid topping-up is
required, turn the cap without
allowing the centre section to
turn. This section, with two wires
attached, swivels in the cap.
Place the cap and float to one
side
-
take care not to drip fluid
from the float
-
and top up with
FL Tutela Top 4 brake and
clutch fluid.
Check that the brake fluid-level
warning-light is operating. Turn
the ignition key to the MAR
I
i 3
»35
2B. Check the
level as described

in
Job 2A.
Unscrew the
coolant filler cap
anti-clockwise
and remove it.
DON'T confuse
the coolant cap
with the smaller
windscreen washer fluid cap, to one side of it.

(ignition-ON) position and press down the button between the
two terminals on the reservoir cap
-
when fitted. The warning
light on the dash should light up. When no button is fitted,
unscrew and raise the cap (ignition key ON) to check the
warning light. Check the bulb, check the fuse, or have your
FIAT dealer repair the warning system, if faulty.
• Job 4. Battery
-
check electrolyte level.
FACT FILE: DISCONNECTING THE
BATTERY
• Many vehicles depend on a constant
power supply from the battery; with
these you find yourself in trouble if you
simply disconnect the battery. You
might find the car alarm goes off, or that the engine
management system forgets all it ever 'learned', making
the car feel odd to drive until it has re-programmed
itself. You might also find that the radio refuses to
operate until its correct security code is keyed into it.
• On cars with engine management systems and/or
coded radios, you must ensure the car has a constant
electrical supply, even with the battery removed. You
will need a separate 12 volt battery; put a self-tapping
screw into the positive lead near the battery terminal
before disconnecting it, and put a positive connection
to your other battery via this screw.
• Be EXTREMELY CAREFUL to wrap insulation tape
around the connection so that no short is caused. The
negative terminal on the other battery must be
connected to the car's bodywork.
SAFETY FIRST!
• The gas given off by a battery is highly explosive.
Never smoke, use a naked flame or allow a spark in
the battery compartment.
• Never disconnect the battery (it can cause sparking)
with the battery caps removed.
• All vehicle batteries contain sulphuric acid. If the
acid comes into contact with the skin or eyes, wash
immediately with copious amounts of cold water and
seek medjcal advice.
• Do not check the battery levels within half an hour
of the battery being charged with a separate battery
charger because the addition of fresh water could
cause electrolyte to flood out.
4. Check the electrolyte
level in the battery. MAX
and MIN lines (arrowed)
are moulded into the
translucent battery
casing. In the case of
non-FIAT-supplied
batteries, the cell caps or
strip (a) may need to be
removed to see the level.
Original FIAT batteries are of the 'maintenance-free' type and
usually do not need topping-up. However, if necessary, top up
after prising off the cell sealing strip with a screwdriver. Top-
up each cell ONLY with distilled or de-ionised water.
• Job 5. Screen/headlight washer fluid
check level.
5A. Top up with a mixture of
water and screen-wash
additive, mixed according to
the instructions on the
container. FIAT recommend
Arexons DP1. The reservoir
for front screen, rear screen
and headlights (as appro-
priate) is situated in the engine
bay: adjacent to the left-hand
strut, behind the battery...
5B. ...and behind the
coolant expansion
tank on diesel
models, as illustrated
here.
• Job 6. Tyres
-
check pressures and condition
(road wheels).
/
6A. Check the tyre
pressures using a
reliable and accurate
gauge. Note that the
recommended
pressures (see
Chapter
3,
Facts and
Figures) are given for ^^
iH^KKSEI ^ "'

COLD tyres. Tyres
warm up as the car is used
-
and warm tyres give a false (high)
reading. You should also check for wear or damage at the
same time.
SAFETY FIRST!
• If a tyre is worn more on one side than another,
consult your FIAT dealer or a tyre specialist. It probably
means the tracking needs re-setting, though it could
indicate suspension damage, so have it checked.
• If a tyre is worn more in the centre or on the edges,
this indicates incorrect tyre pressures.
• Incorrectly inflated tyres wear rapidly, can give
dangerous handling, and can worsen fuel
consumption.
Every three months,
raise each wheel off
the ground and turn it
slowly between your
36
6B. Every few weeks, examine the tyre treads for wear using a
tread-depth gauge. This will help you keep safe and on the
right side of the law!
Check treads visually
every time you check
the pressures.

• Whenever a light fails to
work, check its fuse before
replacing the bulb.
• A blown bulb often causes a fuse to 'go' in
sympathy.
hands, looking and feeling for any bulges, tears or splits in the
tyre walls, especially the inner sidewalls. (See Job 59 for spare
tyre checks.)
H INSIDE INFORMATION: In time, rubber deteriorates,
increasing the risk of a blow-out. Keep your eye on the
sidewalls of older tyres. If you see any cracking, splits or
other damage scrap the tyre. If you're not sure, consult
your FIAT dealer or tyre specialist. Q
_) Job 7. Check lights/change bulbs.
7A. Pull off the
headlight multi-
plug (A) and peel
the rubber cover
(B) from the back
of the headlight.
7B. Unhook the
bulb securing
spring (C) from the
retention clip by
squeezing inwards
(arrowed) and
withdraw the bulb
(D).
Without touching the bulb glass, fit the new bulb. A locating
tag ensures it only goes in in the correct position. Refit and
reconnect in the reverse order.
HEADLIGHTS
IMPORTANT NOTE: On Diesel models with the air filter
mounted behind the right-hand headlight unit, you will
first have to remove the large hose, unscrew the clamp
nut and take off the air filter assembly. See Job 31. On
later models, there is sometimes an air intake silencer in
the same place.
7F. Slide the unit towards the front of the car, then pull out
from the panel. Turn the bulbholder (A) anti-clockwise,
remove it, and pull out the press-fit 12V/5W bulb.
INDICATOR SIDE REPEATERS
-
ROUND TYPE
holder is pushed in slightly, turned anti-clockwise and
removed. The bulb (B) is a push-fit within it.
FRONT DIRECTION INDICATORS
-
TURBO DIESEL
MODELS
7D. Remove the
lens (B) by
inserting a screw-
driver as shown
and pressing down
the tab (A). You
can easily remove
the bulbs with the
lens removed.
FRONT DIRECTION INDICATORS
-
ALL OTHER
MODELS
7E. From inside the
engine bay, turn
the bulbholder
slightly, anti-
clockwise, and pull
out. Remove the
bulb (B) and press
in a new one. Push
in and twist
clockwise.
INDICATOR SIDE REPEATERS
-
RECTANGULAR TYPE
CAS / * touc^ a halogen
• headlight (or driving light)
bulb with bare fingers you

will
shorten its life, so handle with a piece of
tissue

paper. If the bulb is touched, wipe it carefully with
methylated spirit.
FRONT SIDE
LIGHTS

7C.
The side light
bulb holder is
under the main
headlight bulb.
The bayonet-type
7G. Twist the lens (A) anti-clockwise and remove it. The push-
in bulb can be pulled out and replaced.

8D. To prevent the rubber sealing
ring on the new filter from
buckling or twisting out of shape
while tightening, smear it with
clean oil.
8E. Screw the new filter onto the
stub by hand. When the rubber
sealing ring contacts its seat,
continue to turn the
filter a further 3/4
of a turn, by hand
only. Over-tight-
ening the filter
makes it difficult to
remove at the next
oil change and can
buckle the seal,
causing a leak.
E3 INSIDE INFORMATION: It isn't necessary to use
excessive force when refitting the sump plug. Simply grip
the spanner (no need for an extension, now!) so that the
thumb rests on the spanner head, limiting the amount of
leverage that can be applied. Use firm pressure only.
Before refitting the plug, wipe around the drain hole
with a piece of clean cloth to remove any dirt. II
8F. Pour in the correct quantity of
Selenia engine oil (see Chapter
3, Facts and Figures) and check
the level against the dipstick.
Note that the empty oil filter will
cause the level to drop slightly
when the engine is started and
the oil flows into it. Before using
the car, run the engine for two
minutes, turn off, leave to stand
for a few minutes and then
recheck and correct the oil level.
• Job 9. Check crankcase ventilation.
10B. H INSIDE
INFORMATION: If
the gasket sticks
-

which it
frequently does -
DON'T lever the
Q Job 10. Check/adjust valve clearances.
The valve gear clearances need to be checked at the appro-
priate intervals, when the engine is cold.
ALL PETROL AND DIESEL ENGINES
10A. Remove the
air cleaner (where
necessary)
-
see Job
30 then remove the
bolts holding the
camshaft cover in
place. This is the
petrol engine with
air filter removed...
cover or your
could or you could
easily damage it.
Use a spatula to push through the soft joint until the
gasket/cover comes free. D
10C. E3 INSIDE
INFORMATION:
The oil level inside
the housing is
above the level of
the bottom of the
cover plate on
these engines.
Try: i) raising the
front of the car as
high as safely possible, so that oil drains out of the back
of the housing; ii) stuffing cloths beneath the opening
and have more ready, for mopping up; iii) being ready to
clean off the front of the engine with degreaser, when
the job is finished. D
10D. The valve
clearance is
measured directly
beneath the cam
and must be
checked when the
high point of the
cam (arrowed) is
pointing directly
upwards and away
9. Check the
condition of the
breather hose from
the valve cover or
cam cover to the air
cleaner. If the pipe
has become
blocked or
damaged, replace
it, transferring the
flame trap from inside the old pipe to the new one. On some
models, you will have to remove the air filter housing to get at
the crankcase ventilation pipe beneath. Note this type of
spring clip
-
use pliers to slacken-off when removing or re-
fitting.
Try different feeler gauge thicknesses until you find one that's
a tight sliding fit between cam and follower. Make a written
note of each clearance starting with number
1
at the timing
belt end of the engine.
from the cam follower.

—I Job 13. Check cooling system.
SAFETY FIRST!
• The coolant level should be checked
-
and the
cooling system worked on, ONLY WHEN THE
COOLANT IS COLD. If you remove the pressure cap or
bleed screws when the engine is hot, scalding coolant
will spurt out.
• Keep anti-freeze away from children. If it is acciden-
tally swallowed or contacts skin or eyes, rinse
immediately with plenty of water and seek immediate
medical help.
Examine the cooling system hoses, looking for signs of
splitting, chafing and perishing. Squeeze the top and bottom
radiator hoses. Any hard, brittle areas or crackling sounds tell
you that the hoses are decomposing from the inside
-
replace-
ments needed!
SAFETY FIRST!
If
a
clearance is outside the tolerances shown in Chapter 3,

Facts
and Figures, the relevant shim will have to be changed.
New
shims
are available from your FIAT dealer. This work is
fully described in Chapter
6,
Repairs and Replacements.
10E. You must
always use a new
gasket, especially in
view of the oil level
mentioned earlier.
Clean the housing

and
cover faces and

use
the gasket dry.

11.
Examine the

belt
for wear. If
there
is
any
cracking, or if the
toothed side
10F.H INSIDE
INFORMATION:
The cover is 'anti-
crush'
-
you CAN'T
tighten beyond
the lugs pointed
out here
-
so
there's no point
trying! H
0 Job 11. Check camshaft timing belt.
Remove the camshaft belt outer cover. See Chapter 6,

Repairs
and Replacements, PART A: ENGINE.
FACT FILE: VALVE IDENTIFICATION:
T
—
Remember that clearances for inlet and
3™ exhaust valves differ. See
Chapter
3,
Facts and Figures. Counting from the
—^ timing belt end the valves are:
1.1,1.2 8-valve AND DIESEL ENGINES:
EXHAUST -1, 3, 6, 8. INLET
-
2, 4, 5, 7.
1372cc AND 1581cc ENGINES: EXHAUST -1, 4, 5, 8.
INLET
-
2, 3, 6, 7.
1.2 16-valve Hydraulic tappets
-
non-adjustable.
13. If original FIAT hose
clips (a) are fitted, cut them
off (taking great care not to
damage the stub beneath!)
and replace with screw-
tight clips, when fitting a
new hose. Ensure that hose
clips are secure and firm but
not over-tightened.
Check that the wires to the
cooling fan switch (b) are in
good shape. Also, refer to
Job
27

• Job 14. Change engine coolant.
• See SAFETY FIRST! at the start of Job 13.
appears worn, or
any 'teeth' are
missing, replace
the belt straight
away. If the belt

breaks
the valves may collide with the pistons, causing serious
engine damage. Camshaft belt replacement is described in

Chapter 6,
Repairs and Replacements, or you may wish to

have
your FIAT dealer carry out the work for you. If you can
twist the belt through more than 90 degrees, it needs re-
tensioning. Also see Chapter
6,
Repairs and Replacements.
m
AUtOKAlIC CtMAU s/
b
14A. Remove the expansion tank filler cap. Move the heater
control (a) to the red (open) position or, on automatic
systems, press the TEMP button (b) on the dash until HI
appears on the display (c).
—i Job 12. Change camshaft timing belt.

It is
ESSENTIAL that you renew the camshaft drive belt at the
recommended interval. See the Service Interval Chart at the

start
of this chapter. Chapter
6,
Repairs and Replacements
explains how to carry out the work.
14B. Loosen the
worm-drive clip
(arrowed) and
pull off the
bottom radiator
hose.

14C. Also open
the drain plug or
tap (B) at the
centre of the rear
flank of the
engine block on
both petrol and
diesel engines. Drain the coolant into a container. On models
with a separate expansion tank, detach the hose from the
expansion tank and drain the tank.
Q INSIDE INFORMATION: From time to time it's a good
idea to flush the cooling system. With the bottom hose
re-connected, disconnect and remove the top hose from
the radiator. Insert the end of a garden hose first into
the hose (packing the gap with a rag) and then the
radiator inlet, flushing the system in both directions until
the water comes out clear. Q
IMPORTANT NOTE: Flush first with the heater control
turned OFF until the engine and radiator are clear, so
that you don't flush sediment into the heater. Then with
the heater turned ON, flush the heater system out.
14D. To prevent air-locks
forming in the cooling
system as it is refilled (all
hoses and the drain plug
reconnected, of course!),
most models have two
air-bleed screws strategi-
cally positioned in the
system. These should be
opened before refilling.
The first (B or C) is
located on the right-
hand side of the radiator
(type dependant on
version)...
PART C: TRANSMISSION
• Job 15. Check manual gearbox oil level.
The combined oil level and filler plug is on the forward-facing
side of the gearbox. Check the level with the car on level
ground.
15. From beneath the car, wipe
around the filler plug with a rag
to prevent dirt contamination.
Remove the plug
-
using a 10
mm Allen key
-
and top-up if
necessary, using the specified
Tutela transmission oil (see
Chapter
3,
Facts and
Figures), until oil just dribbles
from the filler hole. Refit the
plug.
14E.... and the
second (D)
-

when fitted
-
is
found on the
heater hose near
the top of the
engine. Only
undo the screws
by two or three
turns. Retighten both screws when air-free coolant emerges.
This is the petrol engine...
14F. ...and this
the diesel engine
location.
H INSIDE
INFORMATION:
It seems that
latest Tipos and
Tempras were
built without some or all bleed screws. Ryauto
recommend removing the highest point of the top hose,
refilling with coolant, while an assistant refits the hose
smartly, losing as little coolant as possible. D
Refill the cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of clean water
and fresh Paraflu anti-freeze. Tighten the bleed screws (or
hose) when coolant, and not air, comes out steadily. Run the
engine for a few minutes and bleed again.
IMPORTANT NOTE: It is highly likely that more air will be
dislodged when you first use the car. Keep your eye on
the coolant level (See Job 2)
-
perhaps carrying some
50/50 diluted coolant with you for the first few journeys.
• Job 16. Change manual gearbox oil.
16. The combined
gearbox and final
drive oil should be
drained at the time
shown in the
Service Interval
Chart. Do so only
after the car has
been used and the
gearbox oil is warm, so that it flows well. Remove the drain
plug (on the end-face of the gearbox, accessed from beneath
the car
-
not much room to get a spanner in!) and drain the
oil into a container. (See page 8 on oil disposal.) Leave for 10
minutes to drain completely, and refill with the correct grade
of Tutela transmission oil through the level/filler plug, as
described in Job 15.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Take care not to allow any dirt or grit
to get into the gearbox.
• Job 19. Check driveshaft gaiters.
45
B INSIDE INFORMATION: Make sure you have a 10 mm
Allen key that will fit, before you start. There's very little
room between gearbox and subframe. B
Q Job 17. Check auto, transmission fluid level.

The
automatic transmission fluid level should be checked with

the
car on level ground and the engine at normal running
temperature
-
the car should have been driven for about 4
miles. The level is checked by means of a dipstick next to the
battery.
IMPORTANT NOTE: i) It is especially important that the
fluid is at the correct level. If the system needs regular
topping up because of leaks, fix them as rapidly as
possible or have your FIAT dealer check the system,
ii) Wipe the dipstick only with a lint-free rag to avoid
clogging up transmission valves. Keep dirt out!
18B. The filter is
secured by one
central screw.
Undo this and pull
the filter down,
detaching its upper
fluid pipe in the
process. Remove
the filter, discard it
and fit the
replacement. Refit
the sump, using a
new gasket and
non-setting gasket
sealer.
Replace the drain plug and fill the gearbox through the
dipstick tube. {See Job
17.)

19A. Grasp and turn the
inner drive-shaft and
gaiters, checking for signs
of gaiter splitting or
damage that could allow
grease out or
-
worse still

-
water in. Ensure the
gaiter clips are secure.
Q INSIDE INFOR-
MATION: Inners tend to
leak, putting an oil
stain on the shaft, as
here. You can buy a
FIAT repair kit, with
bearing and
replacement gaiter, to
repair the leak. This
involves removing the
drive shaft
-
see
Chapter 6, Repairs
and Replacements. B
19B. Check the outer
gaiter as well. This moves
over a greater range and
is more prone to damage
and splits.
IMPORTANT NOTE:
Change a split, or
damaged gaiter as soon
as possible
-
preferably
before using the car
again.
If
necessary,
fresh Tutela CVT should be poured in through

the
dipstick tube, using a funnel in the tube or by using ATF

from
a dispenser with a small spout. You may have to leave

the fresh
oil to clear the tube before seeing a clear dipstick
reading.
G Job 18. Replace auto, transmission fluid and
filter.

As well as
Tutela CVT fluid, you will need a new, sump
gasket
and
a new gearbox oil filter, from your FIAT dealer. The
filter
should
be changed every time the oil is replaced.

18A.
Always drain the

fluid when
the trans-
mission
is
warm, such as

after a
run. Raise the

front
of the car on

ramps,
so the fluid

drains well
from the

drain
hole (C) at the rear
under-side of the 'box.

Remove
the drain plug

with an
Allen key or hexagonal socket adaptor, and allow the

fluid to
drain into a container beneath the transmission
-
allow

ten
minutes for complete drainage.
Underneath the car, remove the 13 transmission sump bolts.
H INSIDE INFORMATION: The sump is easily distorted,

so,
when refitting, tighten all bolts progressively and
evenly to the recommended torque
-
see Chapter 3,
Facts and Figures. B

17.
Check the level with the
engine idling and the gear
selector in the 'P' (PARK)
position. Pull out the dipstick

(A),
wipe it clean with paper
kitchen towel, re-insert it and
check the level. The upper

and
lower marks on the dipstick represent minimum and
maximum acceptable fluid levels.

• Job 20. Check/adjust clutch. CABLE OPERATED CLUTCH
The clutch mechanism is self-adjusting, although the cable
linkage can stretch over a period of time and may need
adjustment. The adjuster is on top of the gearbox, reached
from inside the engine bay.
20C. 'Work' the clutch pedal
(X) a few times, pull back the
carpet from under the pedal,
then measure the full travel of
the pedal, which should be
between 140 and 150 mm.

/
\
/ \
/ u / Xl
1 ' ' / . V y 2
Jdi V 1 \
X. 1 —

20C
HYDRAULIC CLUTCH
20B. Check the
pipework and slave
cylinder, on the
gearbox casing,
from beneath the
20D. If not, note that after
slackening the locknut, turning
the adjusting nut inwards
along the threaded rod
(arrowed) will increase pedal
travel. Tighten the lock-nut
against the inner nut after
adjustment.
• Job 21. Check auto, transmission selector cable.
It should only be possible to start the engine when the gear
selector is in the 'P' or 'N' position. Place it in each of the
other positions and try to start the car. If it starts, the fault
must be put right! Also check that, with the ignition off and
the selector lever in 'D' (Drive), 'L' (Low), 'R' (Reverse) or 'N'
(Neutral), the timed warning buzzer should sound. If it
doesn't, the selector cable adjustment may be faulty.
See Chapter
6,
Repairs and Replacements, PART B:
TRANSMISSION AND CLUTCH, Job 8 for adjustment details.
PART D: IGNITION AND ELECTRICS
See FACT FILE: DISCONNECTING THE BATTERY on page 36
SAFETY FIRST!
• You may minimise the risk of shock when the engine is running by wearing thick rubber gloves and by NEVER
working on the system in damp weather or when standing on damp ground. Read Chapter 1, Safety First! before
carrying out any work on the ignition system.
• ELECTRONIC IGNITION SYSTEMS INVOLVE VERY HIGH VOLTAGES! All manufacturers recommend that only trained
personnel should go near the high-tension circuit (coil, distributor and HT wiring) and it is ESSENTIAL that anyone
wearing a medical pacemaker device does not go near the ignition system.
• Stroboscopic timing requires the engine to be running
-
take great care that parts of the timing light or parts of
you don't get caught up in moving components!
• Don't have loose clothing or hair.
46
FACT FILE: CABLE OR HYDRAULIC
CLUTCH?
• Most earlier Tipos and Tempras had a
cable-operated clutch, while later ones
are hydraulic.
• 2 OA. You
can easily tell
which system
your car is
fitted with.
The hydraulic
pipe (if fitted)
runs almost
horizontally,
across the
back of the engine bay.
• There is no separate clutch fluid reservoir
-
it shares
the brake fluid reservoir.
• Clutch cables (when fitted) are inclined to break
without warning.
• It pays to keep the operating mechanism well lubri-
cated and renew the cable every few years.
car. If the pipe
appears cracked,
replace it. If the
slave cylinder
oozes fluid, replace
it, in both cases bleeding the system. See Chapter
6,
Repairs
and Replacements.