check engine FIAT TEMPRA 1988 Service And Owner's Guide

PART F: STEERING AMD SUSPENSION
G Job 42. Check front wheel bearings.

In
order to check for wear:
• raise the front of the car on axle stands (see Chapter 1,
Safety First!)
• place the gearbox in neutral
• pull the handbrake securely on and chock the rear wheels

Try
spinning each wheel (as far as possible with a front-drive
car), feeling for rough rotation. Rock the wheel about its
centre, feeling for excess bearing play.
D INSIDE INFORMATION: If a wheel bearing is worn, you
will normally hear a noise on the outer, loaded bearing
when cornering. D
G Job 43. Check front suspension.
BOTTOM BALL JOINT
Jack
up
the car underneath the suspension lower arm
(wishbone), so that the wheel is two inches off the ground.
See Chapter
1,
Safety First.
SUSPENSION STRUT/SHOCK ABSORBER
43D. Examine the shock
absorber, which is enclosed
inside the coil spring, for
leaks, looking for signs of a
'damp' oil stain seeping from
underneath the top half of
the shock absorber body.
The top of the strut/shock
absorber is mounted in a
rubber bush which can be
checked for softness,
cracking or deterioration
from inside the engine bay.
43A. Place a long,
rigid bar between

the
ground and the
bottom of the tyre
tread, and carefully
'jog' the wheel
upwards repeatedly
while a helper looks

at and
feels the
lower balljoint for vertical movement. The helper should NOT

lie
under the car, and you should be careful not to rock the

car
off
the jack.
Also examine the ball joint gaiter for any

damage
or leakage of grease
-
a simple, visual examination.

You will
have to replace the wishbone assembly if the gaiter is
damaged. See Chapter
6,
Repairs and Replacements for
information.
TRACK CONTROL ARM INNER BUSHES
43B. Further raise the car

and
support it on an axle

stand
under the subframe so

that the
suspension on the

side being
checked can hang
free. Lever between the arm

and
subframe, looking for
excessive movement of the
bushes. Some cushioned
flexing
is
normal. See

Chapter
6, Repairs and
Replacements for bush
replacement information.

One bush is
at the front

inner end
of the wishbone...
ANTI-ROLL BAR BUSHES
43E. Check the outer
mountings, on the
suspension, and the body
mountings.
• Job 44. Check steering column, rack and TREs.
44A. Drive the car on to car
ramps, firmly apply the
handbrake and chock the
rear wheels. Get your helper
to sit inside the car, turn the
ignition key to the 'MAR'
(ON) position to release the
steering column lock. Now,
move the steering wheel
repeatedly about 100 mm (4
in.) each way while someone
checks for free movement in
BOUNCE TEST: Try 'bouncing' each front corner of the car in
a rhythmical motion, pressing down as hard as you can. When
you let go, the movement should continue for no more than
one-and-a-half rebounds. If it does so, this is a sure indication
that the shock absorber is
worn and should be replaced.
If one of the front shock
absorbers needs replacing,
replace both, for safety
reasons.

each track rod end (TRE). Also, look out for a split gaiter.
Replace the TRE if the gaiter is split, or it will rapidly fail.
E3 INSIDE INFORMATION: Try placing your hand over the
TRE as the steering is moved. If there are any signs of
wear, replace the TRE. Q
STEERING COLUMN
44B. The steering column has two universal joints (A) which
need to be checked for wear. While your assistant is turning
the steering wheel, check to see if there is any movement in
the universal joints.
44C. The upper joint is found
alongside the foot pedals.
Q INSIDE INFORMATION:
Place your hand over the joint

-
you can usually feel the
movement better than you
can see it. If there is ANY
movement at all, play at the
steering wheel will be greatly
exaggerated
-
replace the
faulty universal joint. B
STEERING RACK GAITERS
44D. B INSIDE INFORMATION: Check the right hand
gaiter from beneath; the left-hand from inside the
engine bay. Q
Turn the ignition key to the 'MAR' (ON) position but take care
not to start the engine. Turn the steering wheel to full right
lock. From underneath the bonnet, examine the gaiter (see
illustration 44B, parts B) on the left-hand side, which will now
be fully extended. Check visually for splits or oil leakage. Turn
the steering wheel to the opposite lock and examine the gaiter
(B) on the other side of the rack. If necessary, replace IMMEDI-
ATELY
-
the rack will rapidly be ruined if the gaiter is split.
Also, watch the steering rack body (C) to see if it is firmly
attached. If there is any movement between the rack and its
mountings, check the securing bolts for tightness.
• Job 45. Check power steering fluid.
45A. When the
engine is cold, the
power steering fluid
should not drop below
the LIVELLO (level)
mark (B) on the
reservoir (A)...
45B. ...or the mark on the dipstick, as shown. It's okay for the
level to appear too high when the engine is hot.
IMPORTANT NOTE: The reservoir 'floats' around the
engine bay
-
in different places in different models.
• Job 46. Check rear wheel bearings.
Tipo/Tempra rear wheel bearings are sealed in their hubs and
are usually very long lived. See the checking procedures
described in Job 42, but remember not to apply the
handbrake! Also note that the rear wheels will be easier to
spin than the fronts.
• Job 47. Check rear suspension.
Chock the front
wheels, jack the rear
of the car, and place
stands under the axle,
as close to the wheels
as possible. Lower the
car onto the axle
stands.
47. Check the subframe mountings (x4), the trailing arm bush
pivot bolts, the shock absorber lower mounting bolts and the
anti-roll bar mounting bolts for tightness. Check the condition
of the mounting bushes by levering them with a screwdriver.
Replace if excessive movement or bush deterioration are
noticed. See Chapter
6,
Repairs and Replacements.

PART A: ENGINE
PART A: Contents
Job 1. Petrol engine. Timing belt
-
replacement and Job 12. Petrol engine. Mountings
-
replacement.
adjustment. Job 13. Diesel engine. Timing belt
-
replacement and
Job 2. Petrol engine. Cylinder head
-
removal. adjustment. •
Job 3. Petrol engine. Cylinder head and camshaft housing -Job 14. Diesel engine. Cylinder head
-
removal.
refitting. Job 15. Diesel engine. Cylinder head
-
refitting.
Job
4.
Petrol engine. Cylinder head
-
dismantling and Job 16. Diesel engine. Cylinder head
-
overhaul.
overhauling. Job 17. Diesel engine. Valve clearances
-
adjustment.
Job 5. Petrol engine
-
dismantling. Job 18. Diesel engine
-
removal.
Job
6.
Petrol engine
-
checking and reassembly. Job 19. Diesel engine
-
refitting.
Job
7.
Petrol engine. Valve clearances
-
adjustment. Job 20. Diesel engine. Mountings
-
replacement.
Job 8. Petrol engine/transmission
-
removal. Job 21. Diesel engine/transmission (removed from car)
-

Job
9.
Petrol engine/transmission
-
refitting. separation.
Job 10. Petrol engine/transmission (removed from car)
-
Job 22. Diesel engine/transmission (removed from car)
-

separation. reconnection.
Job 11. Petrol engine/transmission (removed from car)
-
Job 23. Diesel engine
-
dismantling.
reconnection. Job 24. Diesel engine
-
reassembly.
Job 1. Petrol engine. Timing belt
- replacement and adjustment.
Mi*^^ Zc+sc, / • The crankshaft pulley nut
n^^ will be difficult to turn.
• If the engine is in the car,
engage a gear (or 'Park' in the case of an automatic)
and have an assistant hold the footbrake down very
firmly. This will stop the engine from turning.
• Alternatively, with the starter motor removed, you
can have a helper prevent the flywheel ring gear from
turning with a large screwdriver.
• Step 4: Before removing the belt, put the pulley nut back
onto the crankshaft, take the car out of gear (if the engine is
still in the car) and remove the spark plugs. You can now turn
the engine in a clockwise direction using the refitted crank
pulley nut
-
without the pulley, of course!
• Step 5A: With
the timing belt still in
place, turn the engine
so that the timing
mark on the camshaft
sprocket lines up with
the one on the front
cover. On some
engines, the front
cover looks like this...
• Step 5B:
...while on the
majority, it looks
like this. The top
part of the cover
backplate slides
out so that the
plastic pip is level
with the camshaft
sprocket. Turn
the sprocket so that the timing mark on the sprocket lines up
with this pip.
IMPORTANT NOTE: It is false economy to refit a used
timing belt. If the belt breaks, it will cause complete
engine failure so always fit a new one.
• Step 1:
Disconnect the battery

and
remove the
alternator drivebelt as
described in PART C:

COOLING
SYSTEM
0 Step 2: Take off

the timing
belt cover.

This is held
by a total

of
four bolts (arrowed).
• Step 3: Take off

the
crankshaft pulley

nut and
remove the
pulley.

• Step 6A: You
must also check
that the mark (a)
on the timing belt
pulley lines up
with the reference
mark (b) on the oil
seal housing. It will
be essential that
all of these marks
align when the
new belt is fitted!
Q Step 6B: On earlier engines rotate the crankshaft so that
the reference mark on the driving pulley is in line with the
TDC reference mark on the front cover. If the engine is in the
vehicle, position the crankshaft at TDC using the reference
marks on the flywheel and bellhousing window.
• Step 7:
Slacken off the belt
tensioner...
• Step 8: ...and
remove the camshaft
timing belt.
Q Step 9: The new
belt must be fitted with
the arrows, printed on
the outside of the belt,
pointing in the direction
of engine rotation.
Ensure that the timing
marks are still aligned.
• Step 10: Engage the belt with the crankshaft sprocket
first, then in turn, the auxiliary and camshaft sprockets. Finally,
feed it round the tensioner pulley. Also, as a double-check
that the belt is not 'out', ensure that the yellow lines on the
belt align exactly with the timing marks on the camshaft
sprocket and crankshaft sprocket.
Q Step 11: Slacken the tensioner nut and push the pulley
onto the belt until taut. Check that the timing marks are still
correctly aligned. Still pressing the pulley against the belt,
tighten its locking nut.
• Step 12: H INSIDE INFORMATION! Before finally
tightening the tensioner nut when adjusting the tension,
remove it, clean the thread and apply Loctite
Threadlocker to help stop the nut and washer shaking
loose. Q
Q Step 13: Turn the engine through two complete turns
clockwise and re-check the belt tension. Adjust again if
necessary.
Q INSIDE INFORMATION! Without the special tools used
by FIAT, you can make an approximate adjustment by
tensioning the belt so that it can be twisted through 90
degrees (one quarter turn) mid way between the
camshaft and auxiliary shaft sprockets, using your finger
and thumb. If you can't put enough pressure on the belt
tensioner with your fingers, push a pair of bolts into the
two holes in the tensioner and lever between them to
turn the tensioner. B

SAFETY FIRST! • Step 7:
Disconnect the
electrical leads from
the following: the
inlet manifold
• Step 2: Disconnect both battery leads, negative
terminal first.
Q Step 3: Drain the cooling system and depressurise the
fuel system, if yours is a fuel injection engine
-
see PART
F:

FUEL AND EXHAUST
• Step 6B:
INJECTION
ENGINES.
Disconnect the
engine end of the
accelerator cable (a),
the idle speed check
actuator (b) and the
injector supply (c).
• Step 8: Detach
the exhaust
downpipe from the
manifold.
• Step 9: Remove
the dipstick
(arrowed) and the
cylinder head
coolant temperature
sensor (arrowed).
• Step 10: Also remove all the HT leads (along with the
distributor cap). Place them to one side.
• Step 11: Undo the brake servo hose from the manifold.
Q Step 4: Remove the air cleaner by releasing the spring
clips (a) at the front of the unit and the screw on the top face
(b) and disconnect the hoses
Remove the oil vapour
recovery pipe clips from beneath the rear of the housing, once
it is free to lift up.
Q Step 5: Disconnect the crankcase vent hose from the
cylinder head and the inlet tract or the SPI injector unit, as
appropriate and blank off with a bolt of suitable size.
• Step 6A:
CARBURETTOR
ENGINES.
Disconnect the
engine end of the
accelerator cable
from its idler and
the choke cable
from its mounting.
Q Step 12: Remove the
water hoses connected to
the inlet manifold and
thermostat.
• Step 13 A:
CARBURETTOR
ENGINES. Disconnect the
fuel pipe from the carbu-
rettor and both pipes
from the fuel pump.
(Label both the pipes and
stubs so that they will be
reconnected the
right way round.)
• Step 13B:
INJECTION
ENGINES.
Disconnect the fuel
supply and return
hoses from the
injector unit housing
(a). Plug the ends.
• Step 14A: CARBURETTOR ENGINES. Disconnect the
distributor vacuum pipe and oil vapour pipes from the carbu-
rettor.
vacuum sensor
(arrowed), the
manifold coolant
temperature sensors
(arrowed) and the
throttle position
switch and any
other leads which your engine may have.

• Step 26:
Check that
nothing remains
attached to, or
obstructs the
cylinder head and
lift it clear of the
block. If stuck, it
is permissible to
tap the head
lightly with a soft mallet to free it. Never use a wedge
between the joint faces and remember that the head will not
slide off as it is located on dowels.
Job 3. Petrol engine.
Cylinder head and camshaft
housing - refitting.
• Carburettor cleaner
-
or
the purpose-made Loctite
'Chisel' aerosol spray,
available from your FIAT dealer, will help to remove
pieces of
stuck-on
gasket.
o
(
V.
o
o
o
o o o
o o e
• • • • •
0 0 O 0 o
Job
3-4

grease, place it on the block with (on FIAT gaskets) this
copper-ringed hole above the correct water passage. The
gasket only fits correctly one way round.
• Step 3:
Lower the
cylinder head into
position and
locate it on the
two dowels (see
illustration Job
3-2, arrowed).
Refer to the illustration to Job
2-1
in connection with the
work described here.
• Step 4: The
10 main cylinder
head securing
bolts and washers
can now be
screwed in by
hand. Don't fit
the smaller ones
(arrowed) yet.
Q INSIDE INFORMATION: FIAT recommend that you
should not re-use cylinder head bolts which have been
refitted more than three times before. Fit new ones if in
doubt, so that you can ensure reliability. B
• Step 1: Lubricate the cylinder head bolts and washers
and leave them to drain for AT LEAST 20 minutes before
fitting them.
• Step 5B:
Tighten the head
down to the first
torque setting,
following the
correct tightening
order.
Q Step 27: Remove the old gasket.
IMPORTANT NOTES: • Here, we show how to refit the
head and camshaft housing, separated. The head
complete with housing cannot be torqued down
correctly without the use of FIAT's special, cranked
spanner for use on the semi-hidden head bolts.
• The valve clearances will have to be re-set. See Job 7.
Clean the block and cylinder head mating surfaces with a
straight edge, taking particular care with the light alloy head.
Any gouging of the metal could prove very expensive to have
put right!
Make sure that all the holes and coolant passages are clear of
any foreign matter, particularly the cylinder head bolt holes
which must be clear right down to the bottom.
• Step 5C: In
the same order,
tighten the bolts
to their second
torque setting.
• Step 2: With
the block face
perfectly clean,
remove the
cylinder head
gasket from its
wrapping and,
keeping it away
from oil or
Tighten by another (second) 90 degrees, bolt-by-bolt, again in
the correct order.
• Step 5D:
Tighten each bolt,
once again in the
correct order, by
a further 90
degrees. You
could use an
angle gauge
(available from
auto-accessory
stores) in order to
be precise.
Q Step 5A: Tighten the 10 larger bolts in their correct
sequence as shown in illustration Job
3-4.
All of the settings
are shown in
Chapter
3,
Facts
and Figures.

G Step 6: Fit the four or five smaller bolts, according to
model (see illustration Job
3-4,
arrowed) close to the spark
plug holes, and tighten to their specified torque. See Chapter

3, Facts
and Figures.
G Step 7: All items previously removed in Job 2 can now be
fitted in reverse order. When connecting the exhaust always

use a
new flange gasket.
G Step 8: Ensure that all connections are sound and secure.
G Step 9: All items previously removed in Job 2 can now be
fitted in reverse order. Refer to Job
1
when fitting the timing

belt.
When connecting the exhaust always use a new flange
gasket.
G Step 10: Ensure that all connections are sound and
secure.
G Step 11: Top up the cooling system with the correct

50/50
solution of FL 'Tutela' anti-freeze solution. Check the

oil
level.
• Step 5: Clean and check all components for wear and
signs of 'scuffing'.
B INSIDE INFORMATION! If the camshaft is changed, the
followers should be changed as well. If the bores in the
housing have 'picked up', these cannot be machined and
the housing should be replaced together with new cam
followers. B
• Step 6: Refit the camshaft to the cam housing and insert
the cam followers and shims in their correct bores, using
grease to keep them in place. For adjustment of valve clear-
ances see Job 7.
2 ZeASt, s * when re'inserti"9the
nfW^c/ !X J?^ camshaft, it can be difficult
to get the camshaft fully in
to its end seal. DON'T try hammering it in
-
all you'll
do is damage the seal. Lubricate the seal with fresh
engine oil, insert the camshaft until it is aligned with
and just touching the seal. Push the camshaft with a
twisting motion until it eases its way into the seal.
Job 4. Petrol engine.
Cylinder head - dismantling and
overhauling.
G Step 3: Remove the

cam
followers and shims

from
the housing,
keeping them in the
correct order for refitting

in the
same positions.
Refer to the illustration Job
2-1
for the components covered

in this
Job.
G Step 1: Remove the camshaft housing from the cylinder
head. See Job 2.
G Step 2: Remove the
camshaft housing end

plate
(or the distributor
mounted in the same

place on
certain models).
G Step 4: Slide the
camshaft out, taking
care not to damage the
camshaft bearings with

the cam
lobes.
• Step 7: Use a suitable valve spring compressor to
compress each spring in turn to allow the removal of the split
collets from the valve stems. Inexpensive valve spring
compressors are readily available from auto, accessory stores.
Take care not to lose the collets when releasing the spring
compressor.
Q Step 9: The valve spring caps, springs and spring seats
can all be lifted clear and the valves withdrawn from their
guides.
• Step 8:
These are the
items to be
removed once
the valve is
withdrawn.
1 - flat washer 2 - lower cap 3 - inner spring
4 - outer spring 5 - upper cap 6 - collets Job 4-8

&CASU / # Q StGP 101 The ValV6S i* (/ should slide freely out of
their guides. Any resistance
may be caused by a build up of carbon, or a slight burr
on the stem where the collets engage. This can usually
be removed by careful use of fine wet-or-dry paper,
allowing you to
withdraw the valves
without scoring their
guides. Keep the valves
in their correct order by
wrapping a numbered
piece of masking tape
around each stem.
• Step 12: Clean the
carbon from the valves with
a rotary wire brush and
wash them in paraffin.
Wash the valve springs,
caps, seats and collets and
dry.
/ • Before grinding-in the
valves, clean the tops of the
valve heads back to shiny
metal. Now the sucker on the end of your valve
grinding stick won't keep falling off when you grind-
in the valves!
head. Don't hesitate to seek the advice of your local agent if
you have any doubts.
• Step 14: Examine the valve seats for pitting or burning.
Also, check the valve seats in the cylinder head. Small pits can
be removed by grinding the valves onto their seats. The seats
in the cylinder head will have to be recut (again, by your local
FIAT agent if the pitting is too deep), and new valves fitted.
B INSIDE INFORMATION! These cylinder heads use
hardened valves and seats for use with unleaded petrol.
We advise you to consult your FIAT agent or engine
specialist for machining if anything other than light
valve grinding is required. B
FACT FILE: VALVE GRINDING
• Step 15: Apply a small quantity of
coarse grinding paste evenly round the valve
seat. A valve grinding stick with a suction pad
slightly smaller than the valve head should
be selected. Put a dab of moisture onto the suction pad and
press the grinding stick to the first valve.
• Step 16: Lower
the valve stem into its
guide and, holding the
grinding stick
between the palms of
your hands, rub your
hands together (like a
bushman making a
fire), rotating the
valve and grinding the
two seats together.
Lift the valve
regularly, say every
ten or so turns, to
allow the grinding
paste to be redis-
tributed. When you
can feel the paste
wearing smooth,
remove the valve and
wipe all the surfaces
clean. A complete ring
of grey contact area
should be visible on
the valve head and its
seat in the cylinder head. If necessary, start off with coarse
paste to remove the deeper pits, and finally use fine paste to
obtain a smooth finish.
• Make sure that no paste is allowed to enter the guide. This
would cause a lot of wear to the valve stem and guide.
• A narrow contact band means more seat pressure and
longer life. A wide band allows rapid valve burning.
• A complete ring of grey contact area should be visible on
the valve head and its seat in the cylinder head.
• If necessary, start off with coarse paste to remove the
deeper pits, and finally use fine paste to obtain a smooth
finish.
• If pitting is too bad, you could have the valve face and the
valve seats resurfaced or, in worst cases, the valve and/or valve
seat (in the cylinder head) will have to be replaced.
• Consult your FIAT dealer or engine specialist if in doubt.
LJ Step 11: The cylinder head is made of light alloy and is
easily damaged when being cleaned. Use a rotary wire brush
for the combustion chambers and ports, but no sharp objects
such as screwdrivers should be used. The machined surfaces
must have all traces of old gasket removed by use of a straight
edge. Then wash down with paraffin to remove old oil and
dirt and dry with clean rag.
At all costs, avoid gouging
the cylinder head. This can
be very expensive to have
put right.
• Step 13: The cylinder
head can be checked for
distortion by use of a
straight edge and feeler
gauge. At the same time check for excessive corrosion. If you
are in doubt, or if the old gasket had blown, have the cylinder
head refaced by your FIAT agent or engine specialist. The
valves should be checked for side movement in their guides.
Anything but the very slightest tells you that the valve guides
are in need of replacement. Your local FIAT agent or engine
specialist should do this job. Examine the valve seats for
pitting or burning, also check their mating seats in the cylinder
72

G Step 17: Now repeat this operation on the remaining
valves.
G Step 18: Wash the whole cylinder head again using
paraffin and an old brush, making sure that all traces of
grinding paste are removed, then dry off. Use compressed air

if
available.
SAFETY FIRST!
•
Treat
compressed air with respect. Always wear

goggles
to protect your eyes.
•
Never
allow the airline nozzle near any of the body Sep apertures.
H INSIDE INFORMATION! Check the height of the valve
springs against new ones if possible, but if not, compare
them with each other. If any are shorter than the others,
play safe and replace the complete set. They are bound
to have suffered fatigue which could cause premature
valve failure. H
G Step 19: To install the valves, start from one end.
Lubricate a valve stem with fresh engine oil and slide it in to its
guide.
G Step 20: Locate a new valve stem seal over the stem of

the valve
(if applicable) and push down into contact with the
guide. Position the seal on its seat using a suitable metal tube.
G Step 21: Refit the flat washer and spring seat.
G Step 22: Position the inner and outer springs and the

spring
cap.
G Step 23: Re-apply the valve spring compressor and

compress
the springs enough to allow you to engage the split
collets
in
the stem grooves.
D INSIDE INFORMATION! Grease the grooves so that the
collets will 'stick' in place. The collets are easily fitted by
'sticking' the backs of them onto the end of a screw-
driver with some grease and feeding them into
position. B
G Step 24: Carefully release the spring compressor and

check
that the collets are correctly located. Tap the end of the

stem with
a hammer, to bed them in.
G Step 25: Fit the remaining valves.
Job 5. Petrol engine -
dismantling.
G Step 1: Familiarise yourself with the layout of the engine.

Refer to
illustration Job
2-1
for an exploded view of the

engine
components.
G Step 2: Drain the engine oil. Remove the cylinder head.
See
Job 2.

G Step 3: Remove the distributor. See PART D: IGNITION
• Step 4:
Remove the petrol
pump and spacer
block, if the
mechanical type
(a). (Electric fuel
pumps are in the
fuel tank.)
• Step 5:
Remove and
discard the oil filter
illustration Job
5-4,

• Step 6: Remove the water pump complete with its distri-
bution pipe, and the power steering pump (if fitted).
Q Step 7: Remove the alternator, the crankshaft pulley, the
crankshaft and camshaft sprockets, the cam belt tensioner
and the cam belt cover backplate.
• Step 8:
Remove the
auxiliary shaft
sprocket...
• Step 9: ...the
end plate and
seal, and remove
the auxiliary shaft.
• Step 10:
Undo and remove
the clutch, and
then the flywheel.
• Step 11: Turr
engine assembly c
remove the sump
and remove the crankcase breather (see
part b) with its pipe.

• Step 24:
Remember to retrieve

the
two thrust
washers from the

end
main bearing in
the block. There are
none in the cap.
If so, you will probably need a new housing. If you are
replacing the camshaft, fit new followers as well.
IMPORTANT NOTE: All bearings, shells, piston rings and
ALL seals that bear on moving parts MUST be copiously
lubricated with fresh engine oil as the engine is being
reassembled. Work ONLY in clean conditions, with clean
components and clean hands. Re-assemble in the reverse
order of the dismantling procedure and take note of the
following steps which will help you carry out a smooth
operation.
Engine Reassembly lob 6. Petrol engine -
checking and reassembly.
Q INSIDE INFORMATION: It is good policy to change the
oil pump when carrying out an engine overhaul. A
replacement engine supplied by your FIAT agent would
include a new pump. D
Checking for Wear
GENERAL
All parts must be thoroughly cleaned for inspection
-
still
keeping them in the right order for reassembly in case they

are to
be re used. Check each component as follows:
CYLINDER BLOCK

Look
for any cracks in the casting, particularly at bolt holes

and
between cylinders. Check the bores for score marks,
caused by burned pistons or broken rings. Check for a wear

ridge just
below the top of the bore where the top piston ring

ends its
travel. If any of these defects are present in any of the
cylinders, they will have to be rebored. Ask your FIAT dealer or

engine
specialist to inspect and measure the bores for wear if

you
are unsure. It is sometimes possible to 'glaze bust' the

bores and
fit new piston rings, assuming the pistons and bores

to be in
reasonable condition. All of this work can be carried

out by
your FIAT dealer.
CRANKSHAFT
Check
all
the mains journals and crankpins for any signs of
wear ridges round the circumference or scoring of the surface.

Check
for ovality with a suitable micrometer, 0.005 mm being

the maximum
permissible amount. Check the shell bearings,

which
should have an even, dull grey finish. If this has worn

through
to the copper coloured backing, or if the crankshaft

has any
of the previously mentioned faults, the crankshaft

should
be reground by your specialist who will also supply the

new shell
bearings and thrust washers.

Check
the crankshaft end float by using a feeler gauge
between the thrust washer and the crankshaft. Thicker

washers
are available if required, see Chapter
3,
Facts and
Figures.
CAMSHAFT
Check each cam lobe for wear, which can be quite rapid once
started. The cam followers should also be checked, particularly

where
they contact the cam lobe. Check the five camshaft

bearings
and their corresponding surfaces in the housing for a

smooth
shiny surface without wear ridges. Check the cam
follower bores in the camshaft housing for pitting or scoring.
Job 6-1
Q Step 1: Make sure you have all the necessary gaskets,
available from your FIAT dealership.
CRANKSHAFT
• Step 2: Apply some
grease to the smooth side of
the thrust washers and 'stick'
them in position either side of
No. 1 main bearing.