height FORD FESTIVA 1991 User Guide

Like other circuits, injector circuits can be wired in one of two fundamental directions. The first method is to steadily power the injectors and
have the computer driver switch the ground side of the circuit. Conversely, the injectors can be steadily grounded while the driver switches the
power side of the circuit.
There is no performance benefit to either method. Voltage controlled and current controlled drivers have been successfully implemented both
ways.
However, 95% percent of the systems are wired so the driver controls the ground side of the circuit. Only a handful of systems use the drivers
on the power side of the circuit. Some examples of the latter are the 1970's Cadillac EFI system, early Jeep 4.0 EFI (Renix system), and
Chrysler 1984-87 TBI.
INTERPRETING INJECTOR WAVEFORMS
INTERPRETING A VOLTAGE CONTROLLED PATTERN
See Fig. 2 for pattern that the following text describes.
Point "A" is where system voltage is supplied to the injector. A good hot run voltage is usually 13.5 or more volts. This point, commonly
known as open circuit voltage, is critical because the injector will not get sufficient current saturation if there is a voltage shortfall. To obtain a
good look at this precise point, you will need to shift your Lab Scope to five volts per division.
You will find that some systems have slight voltage fluctuations here. This can occur if the injector feed wire is also used to power up other
cycling components, like the ignition coil(s). Slight voltage fluctuations are normal and are no reason for concern. Major voltage fluctuations
are a different story, however. Major voltage shifts on the injector feed line will create injector performance problems. Look for excessive
resistance problems in the feed circuit if you see big shifts and repair as necessary.
Note that circuits with external injector resistors will not be any different because the resistor does not affect open circuit voltage.
Point "B" is where the driver completes the circuit to ground. This point of the waveform should be a clean square point straight down with no
rounded edges. It is during this period that current saturation of the injector windings is taking place and the driver is heavily stressed. Weak
drivers will distort this vertical line.
Point "C" represents the voltage drop across the injector windings. Point "C" should come very close to the ground reference point, but not
quite touch. This is because the driver has a small amount of inherent resistance. Any significant offset from ground is an indication of a
resistance problem on the ground circuit that needs repaired. You might miss this fault if you do not use the negative battery post for your Lab
Scope hook-up, so it is HIGHLY recommended that you use the battery as your hook-up.
The points between "B" and "D" represent the time in milliseconds that the injector is being energized or held open. This line at Po int "C"
should remain flat. Any distortion or upward bend indicates a ground problem, short problem, or a weak driver. Alert readers will catch that
this is exactly opposite of the current controlled type drivers (explained in the next section), because they bend upwards at this point.
How come the difference? Because of the total circuit resistance. Voltage controlled driver circuits have a high resistance of 12+ ohms that
slows the building of the magnetic field in the injector. Hence, no counter voltage is built up and the line remains flat.
On the other hand, the current controlled driver circuit has low resistance which allows for a rapid magnetic field build-up. This causes a
slight inductive rise (created by the effects of counter voltage) and hence, the upward bend. You should not see that here with voltage
controlled circuits.
Point "D" represents the electrical condition of the injector windings. The height of this voltage spike (inductive kick) is proportional to the
number of windings and the current flow through them. The more current flow and greater number of windings, the more potential fo r a
greater inductive kick. The opposite is also true. The less current flow or fewer windings means less inductive kick. Typically you should see a
min imu m 3 5 vo l t s at t h e t o p o f Po in t "D".
If you do see approximately 35 volts, it is because a zener diode is used with the driver to clamp the voltage. Make sure the beginning top of
the spike is squared off, indicating the zener dumped the remainder of the spike. If it is not squared, that indicates the spike is not strong
enough to make the zener fully dump, meaning the injector has a weak winding.
If a zener diode is not used in the computer, the spike from a good injector will be 60 or more volts.
Point "E" brings us to a very interesting section. As you can see, the voltage dissipates back to supply value after the peak of the inductive kick.
Notice the slight hump? This is actually the mechanical injector pintle closing. Recall that moving an iron core through a magnetic field will
create a voltage surge. The pintle is the iron core here.
This pintle hump at Point "E" should occur near the end of the downward slope, and not afterwards. If it does occur after the slope has ended
and the voltage has stabilized, it is because the pintle is slightly sticking because of a faulty injector NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. For m odel-specific inform ation see appropriate articles where
available.
NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. For m odel-specific inform ation see appropriate articles where
available.
NOTE:Voltage controlled drivers are also known as "Saturated Switch" drivers. T hey typically require injector
circuits with a total leg resistance of 12 ohm s or m ore.
NOTE:T his exam ple is based on a constant power/switched ground circuit.
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If you see more than one hump it is because of a distorted pintle or seat. This faulty condition is known as "pintle float".
It is important to realize that it takes a good digital storage oscilloscope or analog lab scope to see this pintle hump clearly. Unfortunately, it
cannot always be seen.

Fig. 2: Identifying Voltage Controlled Type Injector Pattern

INTERPRETING A CURRENT CONTROLLED PATTERN
See Fig. 3 for pattern that the following text describes.
Point "A" is where system voltage is supplied to the injector. A good hot run voltage is usually 13.5 or more volts. This point, commonly
known as open circuit voltage, is critical because the injector will not get sufficient current saturation if there is a voltage shortfall. To obtain a
good look at this precise point, you will need to shift your Lab Scope to five volts per division.
You will find that some systems have slight voltage fluctuations here. This could occur if the injector feed wire is also used to power up other
cycling components, like the ignition coil(s). Slight voltage fluctuations are normal and are no reason for concern. Major voltage fluctuations
are a different story, however. Major voltage shifts on the injector feed line will create injector performance problems. Look for excessive
resistance problems in the feed circuit if you see big shifts and repair as necessary.
Point "B" is where the driver completes the circuit to ground. This point of the waveform should be a clean square point straight down with no
rounded edges. It is during this period that current saturation of the injector windings is taking place and the driver is heavily stressed. Weak
drivers will distort this vertical line.
Point "C" represents the voltage drop across the injector windings. Point "C" should come very close to the ground reference point, but not
quite touch. This is because the driver has a small amount of inherent resistance. Any significant offset from ground is an indication of a
resistance problem on the ground circuit that needs repaired. You might miss this fault if you do not use the negative battery post for your Lab
Scope hook-up, so it is HIGHLY recommended that you use the battery as your hook-up.
Right after Point "C", something interesting happens. Notice the trace starts a normal upward bend. This slight inductive rise is created by the
effects of counter voltage and is normal. This is because the low circuit resistance allowed a fast build-up of the magnetic field, which in turn
created the counter voltage.
Point "D" is the start of the current limiting, also known as the "Hold" time. Before this point, the driver had allowed the curren t t o free-fl o w
("Peak") just to get the injector pintle open. By the time point "D" occurs, the injector pintle has already opened and the computer has just
significantly throttled the current back. It does this by only allowing a few volts through to maintain the minimum current required to keep the
pintle open.
The height of the voltage spike seen at the top of Point "D" represents the electrical condition of the injector windings. The height of this
voltage spike (inductive kick) is proportional to the number of windings and the current flow through them. The more current flow and greater
NOTE:Current controlled drivers are also known as "Peak and Hold" drivers. T hey typically require injector
circuits with a total leg resistance with less than 12 ohm .
NOTE:T his exam ple is based on a constant power/switched ground circuit.
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GENERAL INFORMATION
Wheel Alignm ent T heory & Operation
* PLEASE READ THIS FIRST *
PRE-ALIGNMENT INSTRUCTIONS
GENERAL ALIGNMENT CHECKS
Before adjusting wheel alignment, check the following:
Each axle uses tires of same construction and tread style, equal in tread wear and overall diameter. Verify that radial and axial runout is
not excessive. Inflation should be at manufacturer's specifications.
Steering linkage and suspension must not have excessive play. Check for wear in tie rod ends and ball joints. Springs must not be
sagging. Control arm and strut rod bushings must not have excessive play. See Fig. 1
.

Fig. 1: Checking Steering Linkage

Vehicle must be on level floor with full fuel tank, no passenger load, spare tire in place and no load in trunk. Bounce front and rear end
of vehicle several times. Confirm vehicle is at normal riding height.
Steering wheel must be centered with wheels in straight ahead position. If required, shorten one tie rod adjusting sleeve and lengthen
opposite sleeve (equal amount of turns). See Fig. 2
.
Wheel bearings should have the correct preload and lug nuts must be tightened to manufacturer's specifications. Adjust camber, caster
and toe-in using this sequence. Follow instructions of the alignment equipment manufacturer. NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. For m odel-specific inform ation see appropriate articles where
available.
NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. For m odel-specific inform ation see appropriate articles where
available.
CAUT ION: DO NOT attem pt to correct alignm ent by straightening parts. Dam aged parts MUST be replaced.
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Fig. 4: Determining Caster Angle

TOE-IN ADJUSTMENT
Toe-in is the width measured at the rear of the tires subtracted by the width measured at the front of the tires at about spindle height. A
positive figure would indicate toe-in and a negative figure would indicate toe-out. If the distance between the front and rear of the tires is the
same, toe measurement would be zero. To adjust:
1) Measure toe-in with front wheels in straight ahead position and steering wheel centered. To adjust toe-in, loosen clamps and turn adjusting
sleeve or adjustable end on right and left tie rods. See Fig. 2
and Fig. 5 .
2) Turn equally and in opposite directions to maintain steering wheel in centered position. Face of tie rod end must be parallel with machined
surface of steering rod end to prevent binding.
3) When tightening clamps, make certain that clamp bolts are positioned so there will be no interference with other parts throughout the entire
travel of linkage.

Fig. 5: Wheel Toe
-In (Dimension A Less Dimension B)
TOE-OUT ON TURNS
1. Toe-out on turns (turning radius) is a check for bent or damaged parts, and not a service adjustment. With caster, camber, and toe-in
properly adjusted, check toe-out with weight of vehicle on wheels.
2. Use a full floating turntable under each wheel, repeating test with each wheel positioned for right and left turns. Incorrect toe-out
generally indicates a bent steering arm. Replace arm, if necessary, and recheck wheel alignment.
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and left brake lines in place. Install rear suspension struts and wheels. Block wheels and lower vehicle to load suspension to normal ride
height. Tighten torsion beam pivot bolts at body brackets to 69-87 ft. lbs. (93-118 N.m).
4. Check rear suspension alignment. Place an alignment mark at the center of the underbody, at a point of equal distance from the right and
left body bracket inboard mounting bolts. From this alignment mark, measure distance to centers of right and left strut lower mounting
bolts.
5. Both measurements must be within .20" (5 mm) of being the same. If not, shift torsion beam body brackets from side-to-side to center
suspension. Once centered, tighten upper body bracket mounting bolts to 40-50 ft. lbs. (54-68 N.m) and lower bolt to 69-87 ft. lbs. (93-
118 N.m). Bleed brakes.
TORSION BEAM BUSHINGS
Removal
1. Raise and support vehicle to fully extended rear struts. Remove wheels. Remove retaining clip at right brake line routing bracket and
disconnect brake line. Remove clip from left brake line and disconnect at body crossmember.
2. Remove torsion beam pivot bolt bolts and nuts at right and left body brackets. Swing torsion beam trailing arm downward to clear body
brackets.
3. Using piece of wood, block beam in disengaged position. Using Bushing Remover/Replacer (D80L-1002-L), remove bushings from
inboard side of torsion beam arm. See Fig. 6
.

Fig. 6: Removing Torsion Beam Bushing

Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.
Installation
1. Place bushings on outboard sides of torsion beam arms with marks "F" and "R" aligned parallel to arm axis. To ease installation,
lubricate bushings with soapy water. Press in bushings using bushing remover/installer.
2. Remove wood block holding torsion beam out of body pivot brackets. Place bushing flange washers on outboard faces of bushings.
Raise torsion beam arms into brackets until pivot bolt holes align.
3. Install pivot bolts through brackets from inboard side but do not tighten nuts at this time. Connect brake lines at routing brackets.
Reinstall brake line retaining clips. Reinstall wheels. Lower vehicle and block wheels. Jounce vehicle until suspension is fully loaded in
its normal riding position. Tighten torsion beam pivot bolt nuts to 69-87 ft. lbs. (93-118 N.m). Bleed brakes.
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
NOTE:Bushings have "F" (front) and "R" (rear) stam ped on bushing face. Ensure these m arks are right side
up when "F" is toward front of vehicle.
ApplicationFt. Lbs. (N.m)
Capri
Control Arm Bolt-To-Spindle45-55 (61-75)
Inner Control Arm Bolts69-86 (93-117)
Rear Hub Lock Nut18-21 (25-29)
Rear Stabilizer Bracket32-39 (43-55)
Spindle-To-Strut Bolts69-86 (93-117)
Strut Rod Upper Flanged Nut40-50 (54-68)
Strut-To-Strut Tower17-22 (23-29)
Wheel Bearing Lock Nut18-21 (25-29)
Wheel Lug Nuts67-88 (90-120)
Festiva
Brake Backing Plate Spindle Support Bolts32-45 (43-61)
Lower Body Bracket Mounting Bolts69-87 (93-118)
Page 6 of 7 MITCHELL 1 ARTICLE - SUSPENSION - REAR 1991-92 SUSPENSION Rear
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1983-95 WHEEL ALIGNMENT
Pre-Alignm ent Inspection Procedures
PRE-ALIGNMENT CHECKS
Before making wheel alignment adjustment, perform the following checks:
1. Tires should be equal in size and runout must not be excessive. Tires and wheels should be in balance, and inflated to manufacturer's
specifications.
2. Wheel bearings must be properly adjusted. Steering linkage and suspension must not have excessive looseness. Check for wear in tie rod
ends and ball joints.
3. Steering gear box must not have excessive play. Check and adjust to manufacturer's specifications.
4. Vehicle must be at curb height with full fuel load and spare tire in vehicle. No extra load should be on vehicle.
5. Vehicle must be level with floor and with suspension settled. Jounce front and rear of vehicle several times and allow it to settle to
normal curb height.
6. If steering wheel is not centered with front wheels in straight-ahead position, correct by shortening one tie rod adjusting sleeve and
lengthening opposite sleeve equal amounts.
7. Ensure wheel lug nuts are tightened to torque specifications.
Copyr ight 2009 Mitchell Repair Information Company, LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Article GUID: A00060347
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RIDING HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT
1991-92 WHEEL ALIGNMENT Ford Motor Co. - Riding Height Adjustm ent
RIDING HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT
1. Examine vehicle and ensure front or rear end is not higher or lower than normal. Ensure vehicle is level from side to side. Remove any
unusual heavy items before checking suspension.
2. If loading is normal but vehicle is not level, check for spring damage, spring set, or non-standard replacement springs. Repair or replace
as necessary. If in doubt, compare with a new vehicle (if possible).
3. Measure height of fender cutout rim above wheel center at all 4 wheels. Compare left and right side measurements at both front and
rear. See Fig. 1
. On Festiva, side-to-side variation should not exceed 0.4" (10 mm). These measurements should not be made from
floor, but from center of wheel only, as unequal tire wear could cause a variance.

Fig. 1: Measuring Riding Height

Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO. NOTE:Before adjusting alignm ent, check riding height. Riding height m ust be checked with vehicle on level
floor and tires properly inflated. Bounce vehicle several tim es and allow suspension to settle.
NOTE:Specifications for Capri suspension height are not available.
Copyr ight 2009 Mitchell Repair Information Company, LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Article GUID: A00061366
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WHEEL ALIGNMENT SPECIFICAT IONS & PROCEDURES
1991-92 WHEEL ALIGNMENT Ford Motor Co. - Specifications & Procedures
ADJUSTMENTS
CASTER
Caster is permanently set at factory and is not adjustable. Caster should be checked however as a possible cause of suspension complaint.
CAMBER
To adjust camber on Festiva, see Fig. 1
. Camber adjustment on Capri is similar. Instead of 2 strut mount studs, Capri has 4 studs.

Fig. 1: Adjusting Front Camber

Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.
FRONT TOE-IN NOTE:Before adjusting alignm ent, check riding height. Riding height m ust be checked with vehicle on level
floor and tires properly inflated. Bounce vehicle several tim es and allow suspension to settle.
NOTE:See Fig. 2 for toe-in adjustm ent procedures.
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Fig. 2: Checking Release Lever Clearance
Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.
CLUTCH PEDAL SPECIFICATIONS
CLUTCH PEDAL HEIGHT
1. Disconnect clutch cable from release lever at transaxle. Measure distance from upper center of pedal to firewall. See Fig. 1
. If not
within specifications, check pedal mounting for wear or damage. See CLUTCH PEDAL SPECIFICATIONS
.
2. If adjustment is required, remove instrument panel bracket and air duct located under steering column. Loosen clutch pedal switch lock
nut and rotate switch until correct clutch pedal height is obtained.
3. Install clutch cable at transaxle. Recheck pedal height. If connecting clutch cable changes pedal height, check cable for improper
routing, binding or adjustment. If connecting push rod changes pedal height, check for proper push rod adjustment. Install carpet and
insulation to complete adjustment.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
Removal
1. Disconnect negative battery cable. Loosen clutch cable adjuster nut and disengage cable from release lever.
2. Remove starter. Disconnect back-up light switch and neutral switch. Disconnect ground cable/strap and supporting brackets. Disconnect
speedometer cable from transaxle.
3. Install Three Bar Engine Support (D88L-6000-A ) to engine hanger. See Fig. 3
. Remove top transaxle-to-engine bolts. Raise vehicle.
Remove bolt and nut retaining shift rod to input shift rail. Drain transaxle fluid. Remove all support brackets attached to transaxle.
Remove front wheels.

Fig. 3: Installing Engine Support Bar (Festiva Similar)

Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.
4. Remove engine splash shields. Remove front stabilizer bar. Disengage right and left side drive axle shafts from transaxle and support out
of the way. See the AXLE SHAFTS
- FRONT article in the DRIVE AXLES section.
5. Remove exhaust hanger from crossmember. Remove crossmember bolts in sequence, and remove crossmember. On Festiva, remove
crossmember mounting bracket and crossmember. Remove transaxle end plate bolts.
6. Place transmission jack under transaxle, ensuring it is secure. Remove remaining flywheel housing bolts. Lower transaxle by loosening
engine bracket bar hook bolt. Pull transaxle away from engine and lower from vehicle.
7. If reusing pressure plate, mark pressure plate-to-flywheel position for installation reference. Remove pressure plate retaining bolts
evenly. See Fig. 4
. To avoid dropping clutch assembly while removing bolts install clutch aligner. Remove pressure plate, clutch disc
and clutch aligner. Remove flywheel. Remove pilot bearing from flywheel (if replacing).
Inspection
ApplicationIn. (mm)
Pedal Height8.2-8.4 (208.2-213.2)
Free Play.35-.59 (9-15)
Release Lever-To-Pin.06-.10 (1.5-2.5)
Disengagement Height3.3 (84)
CAUT ION: DO NOT allow oil or grease to contact clutch disc face or m ating surfaces. Handle disc by edges.
DO NOT touch face.
Page 2 of 5 MITCHELL 1 ARTICLE - CLUTCH 1988-93 Clutch
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1. Check pressure plate surfaces for scoring, cracks or discoloration. Remove minor scratches or discoloration with fine emery cloth. Check
pressure plate diaphragm spring fingers for discoloration, scoring, broken or bent segments. Ensure all spring ends are the same height.
2. Check clutch disc lining surface for hardening or presence of oil. Check for worn clutch disc lining. Check for loose lining rivets.
Measure depth of rivet heads. Minimum allowable rivet depth is .012" (0.3 mm). Check for wear or rust on splines. Rust may be
removed with emery cloth.
3. Check flywheel surface for marks, scoring or discoloration. Minor surface repairs may be removed with fine emery cloth. Flywheel must
be machined if scoring, runout, or discoloration is excessive. Maximum flywheel runout is .008" (0.2 mm). Check for damaged or worn
ring gear teeth.
4. Check pilot bearing for wear. Check clutch release/throw out bearing for damage or wear at contact points. Rotate bearing in both
directions and check for binding or abnormal noise.
Installation
1. Replace release bearing and/or pilot bearing as necessary. Clean sealant from flywheel attaching bolt threads. Replace bolts if sealant
cannot be removed. Coat bolt threads with Stud/Bearing Mount Sealer (EOAZ-19554-B ), and install flywheel. Tighten bolts in a
diagonal sequence to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
at the end of this article.
2. Position clutch disc on flywheel with damper springs facing away from flywheel. Hold clutch disc in place with Clutch Aligner (T77F-
7137-A ). Position pressure plate over clutch disc. See Fig. 4
.
3. If reusing original pressure plate, align marks made during removal. Install pressure plate retaining bolts. Alternately tighten bolts to
specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
at the end of this article. Remove clutch aligner. Place transaxle on transmission jack.
4. Lightly coat input shaft splines with Clutch Grease (C1AZ-19590-B ). Install transaxle, taking care to align input shaft through the
clutch disc spline. Align clutch housing onto engine guide bushings.
5. Install transaxle lower attaching bolts and tighten to specification. Using transaxle jack, raise transaxle to correct height and tighten
engine bracket bar hook. Install front engine mount and bracket and tighten to specification. Install starter and lower mounting b o l t s,
tighten to specification.
6. Install control rod to transaxle and tighten bolts and nuts to specification. On Festiva, install crossmember and support braces. Install
support braces. On all models, install exhaust hanger to crossmember. Remove transaxle jack.
7. Install new circlips on each half-shaft with gap at top of clip grove and slide into transaxle differential. After circlip snaps into place,
pull outward on hubs to confirm half-shafts are retained by circlip. Install front suspension components, wire harness, underbody and
fender splash shields and front tire assemblies.
8. Connect neutral and back-up light switch and ground wire. Fill transaxle with Mercon ATF transmission fluid to specification. In st al l
and adjust clutch cable or slave cylinder line bracket. Lower vehicle and remove engine support bar. Install speedometer cable into
transaxle.
9. Install battery and/or connect battery cable. Install air cleaner. Adjust pedal free play. See CLUTCH PEDAL FREE PLAY
under
ADJUSTMENTS. Recheck transaxle fluid level and road test vehicle.

Fig. 4: Exploded View Of Clutch Assembly

Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.
CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING & FORK
Removal
Remove transaxle. Remove release lever bolt and slide release bearing off. See Fig. 4 . Remove release lever shaft and remove release lever. CAUT ION: T ransaxle alum inum alloy construction requires precise tightening of m ounting bolts. T orque
specifications m ust be strictly adhered to. See T ORQUE SPECIFICAT IONS
.
NOTE:T he clutch release bearing is pre-lubricated and perm anently sealed. DO NOT clean release bearing in
solvent.
Page 3 of 5 MITCHELL 1 ARTICLE - CLUTCH 1988-93 Clutch
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