cooling FORD FIESTA 1989 Service Owner's Manual

25Unscrew the retaining bolt, and detach
the shift rod stabiliser from the transmission.
As it is detached, note the washer located
between the stabiliser and the transmission.
Tie the stabiliser and the shift rod up out of
the way.
Automatic transmission models
26 Unclip and detach the wiring connector
from the starter inhibitor switch (on the
transmission housing).
27 Referring to the relevant Part of Chapter 4
for details, unhook the accelerator (cam plate)
cable from the carburettor or fuel injection unit
(as applicable) at the transmission end of
the cable. Undo the retaining bolt and
detach the cable sheath bracket from the
transmission. Detach the cam plate cable
from the link.
28 Undo the two nuts from the selector cable
bracket which connects it to the lever on the
selector shaft. Disconnect the yoke from the
lever on the selector shaft and the cable from
the lever.
29 Unscrew the union nuts, and disconnect
the oil cooler feed and return pipes from the
transmission. Allow for a certain amount of
spillage, and plug the connections to prevent
the ingress of dirt.
All models
30 Unscrew the retaining nut and withdraw
the Torx-type clamp bolt securing the lower
suspension arm to the spindle carrier on each
side.
31 Refer to Chapter 10 for details, and
detach the right-hand and left-hand track rod
end balljoints from the spindle carriers.
32 On vehicles fitted with the anti-lock
braking system, refer to Chapter 9 and release
the right-hand modulator from its mounting
bracket without disconnecting the rigid brake
pipes or return hose. Tie the modulator
securely to the bulkhead. Additionally, undo
the three bolts securing the modulator
bracket.
33 Insert a suitable lever between the right-
hand driveshaft inner joint and the
transmission housing, and prise free the
driveshaft from the transmission; be prepared
for oil spillage from the transmission case
through the vacated driveshaft aperture. As it
is being prised free, simultaneously pull the
roadwheel outwards on that side, to enable
the driveshaft inboard end to separate
from the transmission. Once it is free,
suspend and support the driveshaft from the
steering gear, to prevent unnecessary strain
being placed on the driveshaft joints.
34 Insert a suitable plastic plug (or if
available, an old driveshaft joint), into the
transmission driveshaft aperture, to
immobilise the gears of the differential unit.
35 Proceed as described above in
paragraphs 33 and 34, and disconnect the
left-hand driveshaft from the transmission.
36 Connect a suitable lift hoist and sling to
the engine, connecting to the lifting eyes. When securely connected, take the weight of
the engine/transmission unit so that the
tension is relieved from the mountings.
37
Undo the retaining bolts and nuts and
detach the right-hand engine mounting from
the vehicle body.
38 Undo the four bolts securing the
transmission bearer to the underside of the
vehicle body. The transmission bearer is
removed with the engine/transmission
assembly.
39 Unscrew the three retaining bolts, and
remove the auxiliary drivebelt cover from
under the crankshaft pulley.
40 The engine/transmission unit should now
be ready for removal from the vehicle. Check
that all of the associated connections and
fittings are disconnected from the engine and
transmission, and positioned out of the way.
41 Enlist the aid of an assistant to help
steady and guide the power unit down
through the engine compartment as it is
removed. If available, position a suitable
engine trolley or crawler board under the
engine/transmission so that when lowered,
the power unit can be withdrawn from the
front end of the vehicle, and then moved to
the area where it is to be cleaned and
dismantled. On automatic transmission
models, particular care must be taken not to
damage the transmission fluid pan (sump)
during the removal and subsequent refitting
processes.
42 Carefully lower the engine and
transmission unit, ensuring that no fittings
become snagged. Detach the hoist and
remove the power unit from under the vehicle.
43 Referring to the relevant Part of Chapter 7,
separate the transmission from the engine.
44 While the engine/transmission is removed,
check the mountings; renew them if they are
worn or damaged. Similarly, check the
condition of all coolant and vacuum hoses
and pipes (see Chapter 1). Components that
are normally hidden can now be checked
properly, and should be renewed if there is
any doubt at all about their condition. Where
the vehicle is fitted with manual transmission,
take the opportunity to inspect the clutch
components (see Chapter 6). It is regarded by
many as good working practice to renew the
clutch assembly as a matter of course,
whenever major engine overhaul work is
carried out. Check also the condition of all
components (such as the transmission oil
seals) disturbed on removal, and renew any
that are damaged or worn.
Refitting
45 Refitting is a reversal of removal, however
note the following additional points:
a) Refer to the applicable Chapters and Sections as for removal.
b) Fit new spring clips to the grooves in the
inboard end of the right- and left-hand
driveshaft joints. Lubricate the splines
with transmission oil prior to fitting. c) Renew the exhaust flange gasket when
reconnecting the exhaust. Ensure that all
wires are routed clear of the exhaust
system and, on catalytic converter
models, ensure that the heat shields are
securely and correctly fitted.
d) Ensure that all earth lead connections are
clean and securely made.
e) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified torque.
f) Fit a new oil filter, and refill the engine and transmission with oil, with reference to
Chapter 1.
g) Refill the cooling system with reference to Chapter 1.
h) Refit the alternator and starter motor with reference to Chapter 5A.
i) Where applicable, refit the power steering pump with reference to Chapter 10.
46 When engine and transmission refitting is
complete, refer to the procedures described
in Section 19 before restarting the engine.
5 Engine/transmission -
removal and refitting
(Zetec engines)
3
Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when disconnecting
any part of the fuel system.
Don’t smoke, or allow naked flames or
bare light bulbs, in or near the work area,
and don’t work in a garage where a
natural-gas appliance (such as a clothes
dryer or water heater) is installed. If you
spill petrol on your skin, rinse it off
immediately. Have a fire extinguisher rated
for petrol fires handy, and know how to
use it.
Note: Read through the entire Section, as well
as reading the advice in Section 2, before
beginning this procedure. The engine and
transmission are removed as a unit, lowered to
the ground and removed from underneath,
then separated outside the vehicle.
Removal
1 Park the vehicle on firm, level ground, apply
the handbrake firmly, and slacken the nuts
securing both front roadwheels.
2 Depressurise the fuel system as described
in Chapter 4D.
3 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
4 Place protective covers on the wings, then
remove the bonnet (see Chapter 11).
5 Drain the cooling system and the engine oil
(see Chapter 1).
6 Remove the air inlet components and the
complete air cleaner assembly as described in
Chapter 4D.
7 Equalise the pressure in the fuel tank by
removing the filler cap, then release the fuel
feed and return quick-release couplings, and
pull the hoses off the fuel pipes. Plug or cap
all open fittings.
2D•10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
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8Disconnect the accelerator cable from the
throttle linkage as described in Chapter 4D.
Secure the cable clear of the
engine/transmission.
9 Releasing its wire clip, unplug the wiring
connector from the power steering pressure
switch (where fitted), then disconnect the
earth cable from the engine lifting eye. Refit
the bolt after disconnecting the cable.
10 Marking or labelling all components as
they are disconnected, disconnect the
vacuum hoses as follows:
a) From the rear of the inlet manifold.
b) The braking system vacuum servo unit
hose - from the inlet manifold (see
Chapter 9 for details).
c) While you are there, trace the vacuum line
from the pulse-air filter housing, and
disconnect it from the pulse-air solenoid
valve.
d) Secure all these hoses so that they won’t
get damaged as the engine/transmission
is removed.
11 Unbolt the engine/transmission-to-body earth lead from the transmission
(see
illustration) . Disconnect the speedometer
drive cable (see Chapter 12) and secure it
clear of the engine/transmission.
12 Disconnect the earth strap at the top of
the engine/transmission flange, and the
adjacent bolt securing the wiring harness clip.
13 Where the vehicle is fitted with manual
transmission, disconnect the clutch cable (see
Chapter 6).
14 Marking or labelling all components as
they are disconnected, disconnect the engine
wiring connectors as follows (see
illustrations) :
a) The multi-plug from the E-DIS ignition
coil.
b) The radio interference suppressor from
the DIS ignition coil.
c) The reversing light switch multi-plug.
d) The engine main wiring loom multi-plug
behind the E-DIS ignition coil.
e) The crankshaft speed/position sensor and vehicle speed sensor multi-plugs.
f) The oxygen sensor multi-plug.
15 Unbolt the exhaust manifold heat shield,
and lift it clear.
16 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt (see
Chapter 1).
17 Marking or labelling all components as
they are disconnected and catching as much
as possible of the escaping coolant in the
drain tray, disconnect the cooling system
hoses and pipes as follows:
a) The coolant hoses at the thermostat housing. b)
The coolant hose at the metal cross pipe
lower connection.
c) The radiator top and bottom hoses.
18 Where applicable, detach the power
steering pump pressure pipe clips, release the
unions and disconnect the pump pressure
and return lines. Collect the fluid in a
suitable container, and plug the disconnected
unions.
19 On vehicles fitted with the anti-lock
braking system, refer to Chapter 9 and release
the left-hand modulator from its mounting
bracket, without disconnecting the rigid brake
pipes or return hose. Tie the modulator
securely to the bulkhead.
20 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the front roadwheels.
21 Refer to Chapter 5 if necessary, and
disconnect the wiring from the starter motor
and alternator.
22 Disconnect the oil pressure switch wiring
connector.
23 On automatic transmission models,
disconnect the starter inhibitor switch wiring
and disconnect the selector cable (see
Chapter 7B). Secure the cable clear of the
engine/transmission.
24 Where the vehicle is fitted with manual
transmission, disconnect the gearchange
linkage and transmission support rod from the
rear of the transmission - make alignment
marks as they are disconnected (see
illustrations) .
Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2D•11
5.14b . . . the radio interference
suppressor . . .5.14a Disconnect the wiring multi-plugfrom the ignition coil . . .5.11 Unbolt the engine/transmission-to-body earth lead from the transmission
5.24b . . . and transmission support rod5.24a Disconnect the gearchange linkage . . .5.14c . . . and the reversing light switch
2D
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Whenever you disconnect
any vacuum lines, coolant or
emissions hoses, wiring
connectors and fuel lines,
always label them clearly, so that they
can be correctly reassembled. Masking
tape and/or a touch-up paint applicator
work well for marking items. Take
instant photos, or sketch the locations
of components and brackets.
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25On automatic transmission models, clean
around the unions, then disconnect the fluid
pipes from the transmission. Plug the
openings in the transmission and the pipe
unions after removal.
26 Refer to Chapter 10 and remove the front
suspension crossmember.
27 Unscrew the nuts to disconnect the
exhaust system front downpipe from the
manifold. Undo the nuts securing the catalytic
converter to the rear part of the exhaust
system, and remove the converter and
downpipe assembly.
28 On vehicles fitted with the anti-lock braking
system, refer to Chapter 9 and release the
right-hand modulator from its mounting
bracket without disconnecting the rigid brake
pipes or return hose. Tie the modulator
securely to the bulkhead. Additionally, undo
the three bolts securing the modulator bracket.
29 Disconnect both anti-roll bar links from
their respective suspension struts, and both
track rod end ball joints from their spindle
carriers (see Chapter 10).
30 Unscrew the retaining nut and withdraw
the Torx-type clamp bolt securing the lower
suspension arm to the spindle carrier on each
side.
31 Insert a suitable lever between the right-
hand driveshaft inner joint and the
transmission housing, and prise free the
driveshaft from the transmission; be prepared
for oil spillage from the transmission case
through the vacated driveshaft aperture. As it
is being prised free, simultaneously pull the
roadwheel outwards on that side to enable the
driveshaft inboard end to separate from the
transmission. Once it is free, suspend and
support the driveshaft from the steering gear,
to prevent unnecessary strain being placed on
the driveshaft joints.
32 Insert a suitable plastic plug (or if
available, an old driveshaft joint), into the
transmission driveshaft aperture, to
immobilise the gears of the differential unit.
33 Proceed as described above in
paragraphs 31 and 32, and disconnect the
left-hand driveshaft from the transmission.
34 Remove the oil filter, referring to Chapter 1
if necessary.
35 Connect a suitable lift hoist and sling to
the engine, connecting to the lift eyes. When
securely connected, take the weight of the
engine/transmission unit so that the tension is
relieved from the mountings.
36 Unbolt the engine rear right-hand
mounting from the body (one bolt in the wheel
arch, one nut in the engine compartment),
then unbolt the engine front right-hand
mounting from the alternator mounting
bracket. Unbolt the transmission bearer from
the underbody.
37 The engine/transmission unit should now
be hanging on the hoist only, with all
components which connect it to the rest of
the vehicle disconnected or removed, and
secured well clear of the unit. Make a final
check that this is the case. 38
Lower the engine/transmission to the
ground, and withdraw it from under the
vehicle.
39 Referring to the relevant Part of Chapter 7,
separate the transmission from the engine.
40 While the engine/transmission is removed,
check the mountings; renew them if they are
worn or damaged. Similarly, check the
condition of all coolant and vacuum hoses
and pipes (see Chapter 1); components that
are normally hidden can now be checked
properly, and should be renewed if there is
any doubt at all about their condition. Where
the vehicle is fitted with manual transmission,
take the opportunity to overhaul the clutch
components (see Chapter 6). It is regarded by
many as good working practice to renew the
clutch assembly as a matter of course,
whenever major engine overhaul work is
carried out. Check also the condition of all
components (such as the transmission oil
seals) disturbed on removal, and renew any
that are damaged or worn.
Refitting
41 Refitting is a reversal of removal, however
note the following additional points:
a) Refer to the applicable Chapters and Sections as for removal.
b) Fit new spring clips to the grooves in the
inboard end of the right- and left-hand
driveshaft joints. Lubricate the splines
with transmission oil prior to fitting.
c) Renew the exhaust flange gaskets when reconnecting the exhaust. Ensure that all
wires are routed clear of the exhaust
system, and that the heat shields are
securely and correctly fitted.
d) Ensure that all earth lead connections are
clean and securely made.
e) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified
torque.
f) Fit a new oil filter, and refill the engine and transmission with oil, with reference to
Chapter 1.
g) Refill the cooling system with reference to
Chapter 1.
h) Bleed the power steering system with reference to Chapter 10.
42 When engine and transmission refitting is
complete, refer to the procedures described
in Section 19 before restarting the engine.
6 Engine overhaul - preliminary information
It is much easier to dismantle and work on
the engine if it is mounted on a portable
engine stand. These stands can often be hired
from a tool hire shop. Before the engine is
mounted on a stand, the flywheel/driveplate
should be removed so that the stand bolts
can be tightened into the end of the cylinder
block/crankcase. If a stand is not available, it is possible to
dismantle the engine with it suitably supported on a sturdy, workbench or on the
floor. Be careful not to tip or drop the engine
when working without a stand.
If you intend to obtain a reconditioned
engine, all ancillaries must be removed first, to
be transferred to the replacement engine (just
as they will if you are doing a complete engine
overhaul yourself). These components include
the following:
a) Alternator/power steering pump and
mounting brackets.
b) DIS/E-DIS ignition coil unit (and mounting
bracket), distributor, HT leads and spark
plugs.
c) The thermostat and housing cover.
d) Carburettor/fuel injection system
components.
e) Inlet and exhaust manifolds.
f) Oil filter.
g) Fuel pump.
h) Engine mountings.
i) Flywheel/driveplate.
j) Water pump.
Note: When removing the external
components from the engine, pay close
attention to details that may be helpful or
important during refitting. Note the fitted
positions of gaskets, seals, washers, bolts and
other small items. If you are obtaining a “short” engine
(cylinder block/crankcase, crankshaft, pistons
and connecting rods all assembled), then the
cylinder head, timing chain/belt (together with
tensioner, tensioner and idler pulleys and
covers) sump and oil pump will have to be
removed also. If a complete overhaul is planned, the
engine can be dismantled in the order given
below, referring to Part A, B or C of this
Chapter unless otherwise stated.
a) Inlet and exhaust manifolds.
b) Timing chain/belt, tensioner and
sprockets.
c) Cylinder head.
d) Flywheel/driveplate.
e) Sump.
f) Oil pump.
g) Pistons (with connecting rods).
h) Crankshaft.
i) Camshaft and tappets (HCS engines).
7 Cylinder head - dismantling
4
Note:New and reconditioned cylinder heads
are available from the manufacturers, and from
engine overhaul specialists. Due to the fact
that some specialist tools are required for the
dismantling and inspection procedures, and
new components may not be readily available,
it may be more practical and economical for
the home mechanic to purchase a
reconditioned head, rather than to dismantle,
inspect and recondition the original head.
1 Remove the cylinder head as described in
Part A, B or C of this Chapter (as applicable).
2D•12 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
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12After removal, reassemble the big-end
bearing caps and shells on their respective
connecting rods, and refit the bolts finger-
tight. Leaving the old shells in place until
reassembly will help prevent the bearing
recesses from being accidentally nicked or
gouged. New shells should be used on
reassembly.
Inspection
13 Before the inspection process can begin,
the piston/connecting rod assemblies must
be cleaned, and the original piston rings
removed from the pistons.
14 Carefully expand the old rings over the top
of the pistons. The use of two or three old feeler
blades will be helpful in preventing the rings
dropping into empty grooves (see illustration).
Be careful not to scratch the piston with the
ends of the ring. The rings are brittle, and will
snap if they are spread too far. They are also
very sharp - protect your hands and fingers.
Note that the third ring may incorporate an
expander. Always remove the rings from the top
of the piston. Keep each set of rings with its
piston if the old rings are to be re-used.
15 Scrape away all traces of carbon from the
top of the piston. A hand-held wire brush (or a
piece of fine emery cloth) can be used, once
the majority of the deposits have been
scraped away.
16 Remove the carbon from the ring grooves
in the piston using an old ring. Break the ring
in half to do this (be careful not to cut your
fingers - piston rings are sharp). Be careful to
remove only the carbon deposits - do not
remove any metal, and do not nick or scratch
the sides of the ring grooves.
17 Once the deposits have been removed,
clean the piston/connecting rod assembly
with paraffin or a suitable solvent, and dry
thoroughly. Make sure that the oil return holes
in the ring grooves are clear.
18 If the pistons and cylinder liners/bores are
not damaged or worn excessively, the original
pistons can be refitted. Normal piston wear
shows up as even vertical wear on the piston
thrust surfaces, and slight looseness of the
top ring in its groove. New piston rings should
always be used when the engine is
reassembled. 19
Carefully inspect each piston for cracks
around the skirt, around the gudgeon pin
holes, and at the piston ring “lands” (between
the ring grooves).
20 Look for scoring and scuffing on the
piston skirt, holes in the piston crown, and
burned areas at the edge of the crown. If the
skirt is scored or scuffed, the engine may
have been suffering from overheating, and/or
abnormal combustion which caused
excessively high operating temperatures. The
cooling and lubrication systems should be
checked thoroughly. Scorch marks on the
sides of the pistons show that blow-by has
occurred. A hole in the piston crown, or
burned areas at the edge of the piston crown,
indicates that abnormal combustion (pre-
ignition, knocking, or detonation) has been
occurring. If any of the above problems exist,
the causes must be investigated and
corrected, or the damage will occur again.
The causes may include incorrect ignition
timing, or a carburettor or fuel injection
system fault.
21 Corrosion of the piston, in the form of
pitting, indicates that coolant has been
leaking into the combustion chamber and/or
the crankcase. Again, the cause must be
corrected, or the problem may persist in the
rebuilt engine.
22 Check the piston-to-rod clearance by
twisting the piston and rod in opposite
directions. Any noticeable play indicates
excessive wear, which must be corrected. The
piston/connecting rod assemblies should be
taken to a Ford dealer or engine
reconditioning specialist to have the pistons,
gudgeon pins and rods checked, and new
components fitted as required.
23 Don’t attempt to separate the pistons
from the connecting rods (even if non-genuine
replacements are found elsewhere). This is a
task for a Ford dealer or similar engine
reconditioning specialist, due to the special
heating equipment, press, mandrels and
supports required to do the job. If the
piston/connecting rod assemblies do require
this sort of work, have the connecting rods
checked for bend and twist, since only such
engine repair specialists will have the facilities
for this purpose. 24
Check the connecting rods for cracks and
other damage. Also on CVH engines, check
that the oilway in the base of the connecting
rod is clear by probing with a piece of wire
(see illustration) . Temporarily remove the
big-end bearing caps and the old bearing
shells, wipe clean the rod and cap bearing
recesses, and inspect them for nicks, gouges
and scratches. After checking the rods,
replace the old shells, slip the caps into place,
and tighten the bolts finger-tight.
12 Crankshaft -
removal and inspection
4
Removal
Note: The crankshaft can be removed only
after the engine has been removed from the
vehicle. It is assumed that the transmission,
flywheel/driveplate, timing belt/chain, cylinder
head, sump, oil pump pick-up/strainer, oil
baffle, oil pump, and piston/connecting rod
assemblies, have already been removed. The
crankshaft left-hand oil seal carrier/housing
must be unbolted from the cylinder
block/crankcase before proceeding with
crankshaft removal.
1 Before the crankshaft is removed, check
the endfloat. Mount a DTI (Dial Test Indicator,
or dial gauge) with the stem in line with the
crankshaft and just touching the crankshaft
(see illustration) .
2 Push the crankshaft fully away from the
gauge, and zero it. Next, lever the crankshaft
towards the gauge as far as possible, and
check the reading obtained. The distance that
the crankshaft moved is its endfloat; if it is
greater than specified, check the crankshaft
thrust surfaces for wear. If no wear is evident,
new thrustwashers should correct the
endfloat.
3 If no dial gauge is available, feeler gauges
can be used. Gently lever or push the
crankshaft all the way towards the right-hand
end of the engine. Slip feeler gauges between
the crankshaft and the main bearing
incorporating the thrustwashers to determine
the clearance.
2D•18 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
12.1 Checking crankshaft endfloat with a dial gauge11.24 Check that the connecting rodoilway on CVH engines is clear11.14 Using feeler gauge blades to remove piston rings
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HCS engines
4Check that the main bearing caps have
marks to indicate their respective fitted
positions in the block. They also have arrow
marks pointing towards the timing chain cover
end of the engine to indicate correct
orientation (see illustration) .
5 Unscrew the retaining bolts, and remove
the main bearing caps. If the caps are
reluctant to separate from the block face,
lightly tap them free using a plastic- or
copper-faced hammer. If the bearing shells
are likely to be used again, keep them with
their bearing caps for safekeeping. However,
unless the engine is known to be of low
mileage, it is recommended that they be
renewed.
6 Lift the crankshaft out from the crankcase,
then extract the upper bearing shells and side
thrustwashers. Keep them with their
respective caps for correct repositioning if
they are to be used again.
7 Remove the crankshaft oil seals from the
timing cover and the rear oil seal housing.
CVH and PTE engines
8 Check that each main bearing cap is
numerically marked for position. Each cap
should also have an arrow marking to indicate
its direction of fitting (arrow points to the
timing belt end).
9 Unscrew the retaining bolts, and remove
the main bearing caps. As they are removed,
keep each bearing shell with its cap (in case
they are to used again). Note that the bearing
shells in the main bearing caps are plain (no
groove). It is recommended that the shells be
renewed, unless the engine is known to be of
low mileage.
10 Lift out the crankshaft from the crankcase.
11 Remove each bearing shell in turn from
the crankcase, and keep them in order of
fitting. Note that the upper shell halves are
grooved. Also remove the semi-circular
thrustwasher from each side of the central
main bearing web, and keep them in their
order of fitting.
Zetec engines
12 Check the main bearing caps, to see if they are marked to indicate their locations
(see illustration)
. They should be numbered
consecutively from the timing belt end of the
engine - if not, mark them with number-
stamping dies or a centre-punch. The caps
will also have an embossed arrow pointing to
the timing belt end of the engine. Noting the
different fasteners (for the oil baffle nuts) used
on caps 2 and 4, slacken the cap bolts a
quarter-turn at a time each, starting with the
left- and right-hand end caps and working
toward the centre, until they can be removed
by hand.
13 Gently tap the caps with a soft-faced
hammer, then separate them from the cylinder
block/crankcase. If necessary, use the bolts
as levers to remove the caps. Try not to drop
the bearing shells if they come out with the
caps.
14 Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the
engine.
15 Remove each bearing shell in turn from
the cylinder block/crankcase, and keep them
in order of fitting.
Inspection
16 Clean the crankshaft, and dry it with
compressed air if available.
Warning: Wear eye protection
when using compressed air! Be
sure to clean the oil holes with a
pipe cleaner or similar probe.
17 Check the main and crankpin (big-end)
bearing journals for uneven wear, scoring,
pitting and cracking.
18 Big-end bearing wear is accompanied by
distinct metallic knocking when the engine is
running (particularly noticeable when the
engine is pulling from low speed) and some
loss of oil pressure.
19 Main bearing wear is accompanied by
severe engine vibration and rumble - getting
progressively worse as engine speed
increases - and again by loss of oil pressure.
20 Check the bearing journal for roughness
by running a finger lightly over the bearing
surface. Any roughness (which will be
accompanied by obvious bearing wear)
indicates that the crankshaft requires
regrinding (where possible) or renewal. 21
Remove all burrs from the crankshaft oil
holes with a stone, file or scraper.
22 Using a micrometer, measure the
diameter of the main bearing and crankpin
(big-end) journals, and compare the results
with the Specifications at the beginning of this
Chapter (see illustration) .
23 By measuring the diameter at a number of
points around each journal’s circumference,
you will be able to determine whether or not
the journal is out-of-round. Take the
measurement at each end of the journal, near
the webs, to determine if the journal is
tapered.
24 If the crankshaft journals are damaged,
tapered, out-of-round, or worn beyond the
limits specified in this Chapter, the crankshaft
must be taken to an engine overhaul
specialist, who will regrind it, and who can
supply the necessary undersize bearing
shells.
25 Check the oil seal journals at each end of
the crankshaft for wear and damage. If either
seal has worn an excessive groove in its
journal, consult an engine overhaul specialist,
who will be able to advise whether a repair is
possible, or whether a new crankshaft is
necessary.
13 Cylinder block/crankcase -
cleaning and inspection
2
Cleaning
1 Prior to cleaning, remove all external
components and senders. On HCS engines,
make sure that the camshaft and tappets are
removed before carrying out thorough
cleaning of the block. On the CVH and PTE
engines, remove the engine ventilation cap
from the recess in the rear corner of the
cylinder block and if still fitted, undo the
retaining screw and withdraw the engine
speed sensor from the bellhousing face. On
Zetec engines, unbolt the piston-cooling oil
jets or blanking plugs (as applicable); note
that Ford state that the piston-cooling oil jets
(where fitted) must be renewed whenever the
Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2D•19
12.22 Measure the diameter of each
crankshaft journal at several points, to
detect taper and out-of-round conditions12.12 Crankshaft main bearing cap arrows point to timing belt end of engine (A), and
bearing numbers (B) are consecutive from timing belt end12.4 Connecting rod big-end bearing capand main bearing cap markings
2D
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engine is dismantled for full overhaul (see
illustrations) .
2 Remove all oil gallery plugs (where fitted).
The plugs are usually very tight - they may
have to be drilled out, and the holes re-
tapped. Use new plugs when the engine is
reassembled. Drill a small hole in the centre of
each core plug, and pull them out with a car
bodywork dent puller.
Caution: The core plugs (also known as
freeze or soft plugs) may be difficult or
impossible to retrieve if they are driven
into the block coolant passages.
3 If any of the castings are extremely dirty, all
should be steam-cleaned.
4 After the castings are returned from steam-
cleaning, clean all oil holes and oil galleries
one more time. Flush all internal passages
with warm water until the water runs clear,
then dry thoroughly, and apply a light film of
oil to all machined surfaces, to prevent
rusting. If you have access to compressed air,
use it to speed the drying process, and to
blow out all the oil holes and galleries.
Warning: Wear eye protection
when using compressed air!
5 If the castings are not very dirty, you can do
an adequate cleaning job with hot soapy
water (as hot as you can stand!) and a stiff
brush. Take plenty of time, and do a thorough
job. Regardless of the cleaning method used,
be sure to clean all oil holes and galleries very thoroughly, and to dry all components
completely; protect the machined surfaces as
described above, to prevent rusting.
6
All threaded holes must be clean and dry,
to ensure accurate torque readings during
reassembly; now is also a good time to clean
and check the threads of all principal bolts -
however, note that some, such as the cylinder
head and flywheel/driveplate bolts, are to be
renewed as a matter of course whenever they
are disturbed. Run the proper-size tap into
each of the holes, to remove rust, corrosion,
thread sealant or sludge, and to restore
damaged threads (see illustration). If
possible, use compressed air to clear the
holes of debris produced by this operation; a
good alternative is to inject aerosol-applied
water-dispersant lubricant into each hole,
using the long spout usually supplied. Warning: Wear eye protection
when cleaning out these holes
in this way, and be sure to dry
out any excess liquid left in the
holes.
7 When all inspection and repair procedures
are complete (see below) and the block is
ready for reassembly, apply suitable sealant
to the new oil gallery plugs, and insert them
into the holes in the block. Tighten them
securely. After coating the sealing surfaces of
the new core plugs with suitable sealant,
install them in the cylinder block/crankcase.
Make sure they are driven in straight and seated properly, or leakage could result.
Special tools are available for this purpose,
but a large socket with an outside diameter
that will just slip into the core plug, used with
an extension and hammer, will work just as
well.
8
On Zetec engines, refit the blanking plugs
or (new) piston-cooling oil jets (as applicable),
tightening their Torx screws to the torque
wrench setting specified. On all engines, refit
all other external components removed,
referring to the relevant Chapter of this
manual for further details where required.
Refit the main bearing caps, and tighten the
bolts finger-tight.
9 If the engine is not going to be reassembled
right away, cover it with a large plastic bag to
keep it clean; protect the machined surfaces
as described above, to prevent rusting.
Inspection
10 Visually check the castings for cracks and
corrosion. Look for stripped threads in the
threaded holes. If there has been any history
of internal coolant leakage, it may be
worthwhile having an engine overhaul
specialist check the cylinder block/crankcase
for cracks with special equipment. If defects
are found, have them repaired, if possible, or
renew the assembly.
11 Check each cylinder bore for scuffing and
scoring.
12 The cylinder bores must be measured
with all the crankshaft main bearing caps
bolted in place (without the crankshaft and
bearing shells), and tightened to the specified
torque wrench settings. Measure the diameter
of each cylinder at the top (just under the
ridge area), centre and bottom of the cylinder
bore, parallel to the crankshaft axis. Next,
measure each cylinder’s diameter at the same
three locations across the crankshaft axis
(see illustration) . Note the measurements
obtained.
13 Measure the piston diameter at right-
angles to the gudgeon pin axis, just above the
bottom of the skirt; again, note the results
(see illustration) .
14 If it is wished to obtain the piston-to-bore
clearance, measure the bore and piston skirt
as described above, and subtract the skirt
2D•20 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
13.13 Measure the piston skirt diameter at
right-angles to the gudgeon pin axis, just
above the base of the skirt13.12 Measure the diameter of each
cylinder just under the wear ridge (A), at
the centre (B) and at the bottom (C)
13.6 All bolt holes in the block should be cleaned and restored with a tap13.1b . . . but note that piston-cooling oiljets (where fitted) must be renewed
whenever engine is overhauled - Zetec engines13.1a Unbolt blanking plugs (where fitted)to clean out oilways . . .
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3
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Coolant
Mixture type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Cooling system capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
See Chapter 1
System pressure
Pressure test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . 1.2 bars - should hold this pressure for at least 10 seconds
Expansion tank filler cap
Pressure rating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 1.0 to 1.4 bars approximately - see cap for actual value
Thermostat
Starts to open . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . 85ºC to 89ºC
Coolant temperature sensor
Resistance:At 0ºC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 to 102 kilohms
At 20ºC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . 35 to 40 kilohms
At 100ºC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . 1.9 to 2.5 kilohms
At 120ºC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 to 1.4 kilohms
Chapter 3
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
Antifreeze - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Coolant level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See
“Weekly Checks”
Cooling system - draining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Cooling system - filling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Cooling system - flushing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Cooling system electrical switches and sensors - testing, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 6
Cooling system hoses - disconnection and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Heater/ventilation components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Radiator and expansion tank - removal, inspection and refitting . . . 7
Radiator electric cooling fan assembly - testing, removal and
refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . 5
Thermostat - removal, testing and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Underbonnet check for fluid leaks and hose condition . .See Chapter 1
Water pump (CVH and PTE engines) - removal and refitting . . . . . . 9
Water pump (HCS engines) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Water pump (Zetec engines) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
3•1
Specifications Contents
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience Fairly easy,
suitable
for beginner with
some experience Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,
suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321
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Torque wrench settingsNmlbf ft
Thermostat housing to cylinder head: HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 17 to 21 13 to 16
CVH engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 9 to 12 7 to 9
PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 9 7
Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . 17 to 21 13 to 16
Water outlet to thermostat housing (Zetec engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 12 7 to 9
Water pump pulley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . 107.5
Water pump retaining bolts: HCS, CVH and PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6
Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . 1813
Coolant temperature gauge sender . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4
Coolant temperature sensor: HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 2317
CVH engines: 1.4 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . 1914
1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . 1511
PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 1511
Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . 1511
Radiator mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. 20 to 27 15 to 20
Radiator cooling fan shroud retaining bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 to 5 2 to 4
Radiator cooling fan motor to shroud nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 12 7 to 9
Automatic transmission fluid cooling pipe connections to radiator . . . . 17 to 21 13 to 16
3•2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
1 General information and
precautions
Engine cooling system
The cooling system is of the pressurised
type consisting of a belt-driven pump,
aluminium crossflow radiator, expansion tank,
electric cooling fan and a thermostat. The
system functions as follows. Cold coolant in
the bottom of the radiator passes through the
bottom hose to the water pump, where it is
pumped around the cylinder block and head
passages. After cooling the cylinder bores,
combustion surfaces and valve seats, the
coolant reaches the underside of the
thermostat, which is initially closed. The
coolant passes through the heater and
inlet manifold and is returned to the water
pump. When the engine is cold, the coolant
circulates through the cylinder block, cylinder
head, heater and inlet manifold. When the
coolant reaches a predetermined tempera-
ture, the thermostat opens, and the coolant
then passes through the top hose to
the radiator. As the coolant circulates
through the radiator, it is cooled by the inrush
of air when the car is in forward motion.
Airflow is supplemented by the action of the
electric cooling fan when necessary. Upon
reaching the bottom of the radiator, the
coolant is now cooled, and the cycle is
repeated. When the engine is at normal operating
temperature, the coolant expands, and some
of it is displaced into the expansion tank. This
coolant collects in the tank, and is returned to
the radiator when the system cools.
The electric cooling fan, mounted behind
the radiator, is controlled by a thermostatic switch. At a predetermined coolant
temperature, the switch contacts close, thus
actuating the fan.
Heating/ventilation system
The heating system consists of a blower fan
and heater matrix (radiator) located in the
heater unit, with hoses connecting the heater
matrix to the engine cooling system. Hot
engine coolant is circulated through the
heater matrix. Air is forced through the matrix
by the three-speed fan, dispersing the heat
into the vehicle interior. Fresh air enters the
vehicle through the grille slats between the
windscreen and the rear edge of the bonnet,
and passes through to the heater casing.
Depending on the position of the heater slide
controls, which actuate cable-controlled flap
valves within the heater casing, the air is
distributed, either heated or unheated, via the
ducting to outlet vents. The main outlet vents
in the facia are adjustable. The airflow passes
through the passenger compartment to exit at
the rear of the vehicle.
Precautions
Warning: DO NOT attempt to
remove the expansion tank filler
cap, or to disturb any part of the
cooling system, while it or the
engine is hot, as there is a very great risk
of scalding. If the expansion tank filler cap
must be removed before the engine and
radiator have fully cooled down (even
though this is not recommended) the
pressure in the cooling system must first
be released. Cover the cap with a thick
layer of cloth, to avoid scalding, and slowly
unscrew the filler cap until a hissing sound
can be heard. When the hissing has
stopped, showing that pressure is
released, slowly unscrew the filler cap
further until it can be removed; if more
hissing sounds are heard, wait until they have stopped before unscrewing the cap
completely. At all times, keep well away
from the filler opening.
Warning: Do not allow antifreeze
to come in contact with your
skin, or with the painted
surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off
spills immediately with plenty of water.
Never leave antifreeze lying around in an
open container, or in a puddle in the
driveway or on the garage floor. Children
and pets are attracted by its sweet smell,
but antifreeze can be fatal if ingested. Warning: If the engine is hot, the
electric cooling fan may start
rotating even if the engine is not
running, so be careful to keep
hands, hair and loose clothing well clear
when working in the engine compartment.
2 Antifreeze -
general information
Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1
of this Chapter before proceeding. The cooling system should be filled with a
water/ethylene glycol-based antifreeze
solution, of a strength which will prevent
freezing down to at least -25ºC, or lower if the
local climate requires it. Antifreeze also
provides protection against corrosion, and
increases the coolant boiling point. The cooling system should be maintained
according to the schedule described in
Chapter 1. If antifreeze is used that is not to
Ford’s specification, old or contaminated
coolant mixtures are likely to cause damage,
and encourage the formation of corrosion and
scale in the system. Use distilled water with the
antifreeze, if available - if not, be sure to use
only soft water. Clean rainwater is suitable.
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Before adding antifreeze, check all hoses
and hose connections, because antifreeze
tends to leak through very small openings.
Engines don’t normally consume coolant, so if
the level falls regularly, find the cause and
correct it. The exact mixture of antifreeze-to-water
which you should use depends on the relative
weather conditions. The mixture should
contain at least 40% antifreeze, but not more
than 70%. Consult the mixture ratio chart on
the antifreeze container before adding
coolant. Hydrometers are available at most
automotive accessory shops to test the
coolant. Use only good-quality ethylene-
glycol-based antifreeze which meets the
vehicle manufacturer’s specifications.
3 Cooling system hoses -
disconnection and renewal
1
Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1
of this Chapter before starting work.
1 If the checks described in Chapter 1 reveal
a faulty hose, it must be renewed as follows.
2 First drain the cooling system (see Chap-
ter 1); if the antifreeze is not due for renewal,
the drained coolant may be re-used, if it is
collected in a clean container.
3 To disconnect any hose, use a pair of pliers
to release the spring clamps (or a screwdriver
to slacken screw-type clamps), then move
them along the hose clear of the union.
Carefully work the hose off its stubs. The
hoses can be removed with relative ease
when new - on an older car, they may have
stuck.
4 If a hose proves stubborn, try to release it
by rotating it on its unions before attempting
to work it off. Gently prise the end of the hose
with a blunt instrument (such as a flat-bladed
screwdriver), but do not apply too much force,
and take care not to damage the pipe stubs or
hoses. Note in particular that the radiator hose
unions are fragile; do not use excessive force
when attempting to remove the hoses.
5 When refitting a hose, first slide the clamps
onto the hose, then work the hose onto its
unions. 6
Work each hose end fully onto its union,
then check that the hose is settled correctly
and is properly routed. Slide each clip along
the hose until it is behind the union flared end,
before tightening it securely.
7 Refill the system with coolant (see Chap-
ter 1).
8 Check carefully for leaks as soon as
possible after disturbing any part of the
cooling system.
4 Thermostat -
removal, testing and refitting
1
Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1
of this Chapter before starting work.
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
3 Refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 4 and
remove the air cleaner or air inlet hoses,
according to engine type as necessary, to
gain access to the thermostat housing.
HCS, CVH and PTE engines
4 Loosen the clips, and disconnect the
radiator top hose, expansion tank hose and,
where applicable, the heater hose from the
thermostat housing (see illustrations).5
Disconnect the thermostatic switch wire
multi-plug from the thermostat housing.
6 Unscrew the retaining bolts, and remove
the thermostat housing (see illustration).
7 Remove the gasket from the mating face of
the thermostat housing, then using suitable
pliers, compress the thermostat retaining clip
(where applicable) and remove it from the
housing. Extract the thermostat from
the housing (noting its direction of fitting) and
where applicable, remove the O-ring seal (see
illustrations) .
Zetec engines
8Disconnect the expansion tank hose and
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3•3
4.4b Disconnecting the expansion tank
top hose from the thermostat housing
(HCS engine). Radiator cooling fan thermal switch (arrowed)4.4a Thermostat housing hose
attachments on the CVH engine
4.7b Exploded view of thermostat and housing (CVH and PTE engines)
A Sealing ring C Retaining clip
B Thermostat
4.7a Removing the gasket and thermostat from an HCS engine4.6 Removing the thermostat housingfrom a CVH engine
3
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
If all else fails, cut the hose
with a sharp knife, then slit
it so that it can be peeled off
in two pieces. Although this
may prove expensive if the hose is
otherwise undamaged, it is preferable
to buying a new radiator.
If the hose is stiff, use a little
soapy water as a lubricant,
or soften the hose by
soaking it in hot water. Do
not use oil or grease, which may attack
the rubber.
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the radiator top hose from the thermostat
housing’s water outlet (see illustration).
9 Unscrew the retaining bolts, and remove
the water outlet from the thermostat housing.
10 Withdraw the thermostat from the housing
noting the position of the air bleed valve, and
how the thermostat is installed (which end is
facing outwards) (see illustration).
Testing
General check
11Before assuming the thermostat is to
blame for a cooling system problem, check
the coolant level, auxiliary drivebelt tension
and condition (see Chapter 1) and
temperature gauge operation.
12 If the engine seems to be taking a long
time to warm up (based on heater output or
temperature gauge operation), the thermostat
is probably stuck open. Renew the thermostat.
13 If the engine runs hot, use your hand to
check the temperature of the radiator top
hose. If the hose isn’t hot, but the engine is,
the thermostat is probably stuck closed,
preventing the coolant inside the engine from
escaping to the radiator - renew the
thermostat.
Caution: Don’t drive the vehicle without a
thermostat. The lack of a thermostat will
slow warm-up time. The engine
management system’s ECU will then stay
in warm-up mode for longer than
necessary, causing emissions and fuel
economy to suffer. 14
If the radiator top hose is hot, it means
that the coolant is flowing and the thermostat
is open. Consult the “Fault finding” section at
the end of this manual to assist in tracing
possible cooling system faults.
Thermostat test
15 If the thermostat remains in the open
position at room temperature, it is faulty, and
must be renewed as a matter of course.
16 To test it fully, suspend the (closed)
thermostat on a length of string in a container
of cold water, with a thermometer beside it;
ensure that neither touches the side of the
container (see illustration) .
17 Heat the water, and check the temperature
at which the thermostat begins to open;
compare this value with that specified. It’s not
possible to check the fully-open temperature,
because this occurs above the boiling point of
water at normal atmospheric pressure. If the
temperature at which the thermostat began to
open was as specified, then it is most likely
that the thermostat is working properly at all
temperatures. Remove the thermostat, and
allow it to cool down; check that it closes fully.
18 If the thermostat does not open and close
as described, if it sticks in either position, or if
it does not open at the specified temperature,
it must be renewed.
Refitting
All models
19 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Clean
the mating surfaces carefully, and renew the thermostat’s O-ring seal or housing gasket, as
applicable.
20
On Zetec engines, ensure that the
thermostat is fitted with its air bleed valve
uppermost.
21 Tighten the thermostat housing/water
outlet bolts to the specified torque.
22 Refill the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
23 Refit the air cleaner or air inlet components,
as applicable, if removed for access.
24 Start the engine and allow it to reach
normal operating temperature, then check for
leaks and proper thermostat operation.
5 Radiator electric cooling fan assembly - testing, removal
and refitting
2
Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1
of this Chapter before starting work.
Testing
1 If it is suspected that the cooling fan is not
operating when high engine temperature
would normally require it to do so, first check
the relevant fuses and relays (see Chapter 12).
2 Detach the wiring multi-plug from the
thermostatic switch, which is located either in
the thermostat housing or at the right-hand end
of the radiator, next to the bottom hose (see
illustration) . Using a suitable piece of wire,
bridge the two connections within the plug.
Switch the ignition on and check if the cooling
fan operates. If the fan now operates, the
thermostatic switch is at fault, and should be
renewed as described in Section 6. Remove the
bridging wire from the plug, and reconnect the
wiring connector to complete the test.
3 If the fan failed to operate in the previous
test, either the fan motor is at fault, or there is
a fault in the wiring loom (see Chapter 12 for
testing details).
Removal
All models except Turbo
4 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
5 Detach the wiring multi-plug from the fan
motor and unclip the wiring from the retaining
clips on the shroud (see illustration).
3•4 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
5.5 Disconnecting the multi-plug from the
radiator cooling fan motor5.2 Radiator cooling fan thermostatic
switch location on CVH engine thermostat
housing
4.16 Testing the thermostat4.10 Zetec engine thermostat removal4.8 Disconnect the coolant hoses from thewater outlet on a Zetec engine
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