ECO mode FORD FIESTA 1989 Service Manual PDF

windows (early models) and the tailgate
remote release mechanism, where fitted.
19Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
20 To remove a switch, carefully prise it from
its location using a thin flat-bladed
screwdriver, then disconnect the multi-plug
(see illustrations) .
21 To refit, connect the multi-plug then push
home to secure.
Heater fan motor control switch
22 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
23 Pull the heater fan motor control knob off,
then move the air distribution and
temperature controls fully to the right. Unclip
and remove the heater slide facia towards the
left-hand side of the vehicle, removing the
slide control knobs only as necessary, and
disconnecting its bulbholder (bayonet type) as
it is withdrawn (see illustration) .
24 Squeeze the two release tabs together on
the heater fan motor control switch, and
remove it, disconnecting its multi-plug as it is
withdrawn.
25 Refit by reversing the removal procedure.
Brake stop-light switch
26The brake stop-light switch is attached to
the brake pedal mounting bracket.
27 Detach the wiring multi-plug from the
switch, then twist the switch through a quarter
of a turn (90º) anticlockwise and withdraw it
from the bracket. 28
Insert the switch into its retainer, press it
lightly against the brake pedal until all free
play is just taken up, then turn the switch
clockwise to secure. Reconnect the switch
wiring connector and the battery.
Handbrake warning light
switch
29 Push the carpet mounding down as
necessary to gain access to the switch,
located on the handbrake lever.
30 Remove the cover, then disconnect the
warning light switch wiring multi-plug (see
illustration) . Undo the two screws securing
the switch to the handbrake lever assembly
and remove the switch.
31 Refit by reversing the removal procedure.
Low brake fluid level warning
light switch
32This is incorporated into the brake fluid
reservoir cap, and senses fluid level in the
reservoir. It cannot be renewed separately
from the cap.
33 To remove, disconnect the warning
indicator loom multi-plug and unscrew the
reservoir cap.
34 Refit by reversing the removal procedure.
Courtesy light switches
35Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
36 With the door open, undo the retaining
screw and withdraw the switch from the door
pillar. Pull out the wiring slightly, and tie a piece of string to it, so that it can be retrieved
if it drops down into the door pillar.
37
Disconnect the wiring from the switch.
38 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Reversing light switch
39Refer to Chapter 7A, Section 6.
Starter inhibitor switch
(automatic transmission)
40Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
41 The starter inhibitor switch is located on
the transmission housing, and prevents the
engine from being started with the selector
lever in any position except “P” or “N”.
Access to the switch is gained after raising
and supporting the vehicle at the front end on
axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle
support” ).
42 Detach the switch multi-plug, then
unscrew and remove the switch from the
transmission, together with its O-ring. As the
switch is removed, catch any fluid spillage in a
suitable container, and plug the switch
aperture in the transmission to prevent any
further loss.
43 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Use a new O-ring, and tighten the
switch securely. Ensure that the wiring
connection is securely made. On completion,
check and if necessary top-up the automatic
transmission fluid (see Chapter 1) then check
that the engine only starts when the selector
is in the “P” or “N” position.
Luggage area contact plate
44 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
45 Open the tailgate and release the contact
plate side retaining clips using a thin-bladed
screwdriver. Push the contact plate from its
location in the body.
46 Disconnect the wiring multi-plug and
remove the plate (see illustration).
47 Refit in the reverse order of removal.
Luggage area contact switch
48Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
49 Open the tailgate and remove its inner
trim panel (see Chapter 11).
12•6 Body electrical systems
4.46 Withdrawing the luggage area
contact plate for access to disconnect the
multi-plug4.30 Removing the cover from thehandbrake warning light switch
4.23 Heater fan motor control switch removal4.20b . . . then disconnect its multiplugand remove the switch4.20a Prise the centre console switch up from its location . . .
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Windscreen washer jets and hoses
10Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
11 With the bonnet raised and supported on
its stay, release the fasteners securing its
insulation panel (where fitted). Remove the
insulation panel.
12 Carefully press in the retaining lugs on the
washer jets using a flat-bladed screwdriver,
then raise the washer jets from the exterior
surface of the bonnet and separate them from
their hoses
13 The windscreen washer jet hose may have
been fitted with a one-way (non-return) valve.
If this is the case, the main hose run sections
can be removed from either side of the valve
as required.
14 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support” ).
15 Disconnect the windscreen washer hose
(marked with adhesive tape) from the washer
pump (see illustration 19.2) . Withdraw the
hose from the reservoir guide, and into the
engine compartment.
16 Release the hose from its clips in the
engine compartment, including the bonnet
hinge clip, release the hose grommet from the
bonnet (where fitted) and withdraw the hoses
from the bonnet (see illustration) .
Tailgate washer jet and hose
17Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
18 On XR2i models, remove the tailgate
spoiler as described in Chapter 11.
19 Remove the central blanking plug from
the upper interior surface of the tailgate, to
expose the washer jet base.
20 Depress the washer jet retaining lug using
a flat-bladed screwdriver, then push the
washer jet out through the panel. From the
outside, fully withdraw the washer jet and
disconnect it from its hose. Note washer jet
seal fitment.
21 Remove the left-hand sun visor.
22 Remove the left-hand A-pillar trim as
described in Chapter 11. 23
Release the left-hand side of the
headlining by removing the retaining
clips/grab handles/coat hooks, as applicable.
24 In the engine compartment, disconnect
the tailgate washer hose from its valve. The
forward hose run may be removed, if required,
in a manner similar to that described in
paragraphs 15 and 16 above, releasing it from
its clips in the engine compartment.
25 Remove the tailgate washer hose
grommet, then withdraw the hose through the
bulkhead into the passenger compartment.
26 Release the hose from its A-pillar and roof
frame locations. Release the grommet (hose
protector) from its tailgate and body locations,
and withdraw the hose from the vehicle.
Refitting
27 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Always
renew the pump-to-reservoir seal washer, and
ensure that all connections are securely
made. When reconnecting the pump hoses,
ensure that the hose marked with tape is
connected to the correspondingly marked
connection on the pump.
28 On completion, top-up the washer
reservoir ( “see Weekly checks” ) and check
that the operation of the washers is
satisfactory. If necessary, adjust the
windscreen washer jets by inserting a pin into
the centre of the jet and directing the flow at
the top part of the windscreen.
20 Electric window regulator motor - removal and refitting
3
Removal
1Remove the window regulator from the
vehicle, as described in Chapter 11.
2 To remove the motor from the regulator
mechanism, undo and remove the two Torx
head bolts securing it, then carefully separate
by unscrewing (see illustration) .
Refitting
3Carefully screw the motor shaft into the
regulator mechanism.
4 Temporarily connect the multi-plug, switch on the ignition and activate the motor, to
engage and pull the motor fully into the
regulator mechanism.
5
Ensure that the multi-plug connection is
located on top of the motor (as if the window
regulator is in position in the door), before
securing the motor to the regulator
mechanism with its two Torx-head bolts.
6 Switch off the ignition and disconnect the
multi-plug.
7 Refit the window regulator to the vehicle, in
accordance with Chapter 11.
21 Tailgate remote release motor - removal and refitting
2
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Remove the tailgate inner trim panel as
described in Chapter 11.
3 Remove the two motor securing screws,
then twist the operating rod retaining clip and
withdraw the operating rod from it.
4 Disconnect the wiring and remove the
motor assembly.
5 The motor may be separated from its
bracket by removing two further screws.
Refitting
6 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
22 Radio/cassette player -
removal and refitting
3
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Unscrew the four hexagonal head securing
pins from the corners of the unit with an Allen
key (see illustration) .
3 In order to release the radio retaining clips,
two U-shaped rods must be inserted into the
special holes on each side of the radio (see
Body electrical systems 12•15
19.16 Routing of washer hoses in the
engine compartment
A Windscreen washer hose
B Tailgate washer hose
C Tailgate washer hose one-way valve
22.2 Unscrewing the securing pins from the radio/cassette player20.2 Electrically operated window motor-securing bolts (A), and multi-plug
connection (B)
12
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illustration). If possible, it is preferable to
obtain purpose-made rods from an audio
specialist, as these have cut-outs which snap
firmly into the clips so that the radio can be
pulled out. Pull the unit squarely from its
aperture, or it may jam.
4 With the radio/cassette sufficiently
withdrawn, disconnect the feed, earth, aerial
and speaker leads.
5 Remove the tools from the unit by gently
wiggling and pulling.
Refitting
6 Refitting is a reversal of removal. When the
leads are reconnected to the rear of the unit,
press it into position to the point where the
retaining clips are felt to engage. Reactivate
the unit in accordance with the code and the
instructions given in the Ford Audio Operating
Manual supplied with the vehicle.
23 Speakers -
removal and refitting
3
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
Front speaker
2 Remove the side door inner trim panel as
described in Chapter 11.
3 Remove the four screws securing the
speaker assembly to the door and withdraw the speaker from the door. Disconnect its
multi-plug as it is withdrawn
(see illustration).
Rear speaker
4The rear speakers are suspended beneath
the parcel shelf supports and are secured in
position by locating tags and screws.
5 Remove the securing screws then lower the
speaker, disengaging its locating tags from
the parcel shelf support (see illustrations).
Disconnect its multi-plug as it is withdrawn.
Refitting
6 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
24 Speaker balance control
joystick - removal and refitting
1
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Using a thin flat-bladed screwdriver, carefully
prise the joystick assembly out of the facia. Use
a piece of card or similar to prevent damage to
the facia. Withdraw the assembly so that its
multi-plug may be disconnected, then remove it
from the vehicle (see illustration) .
Refitting
3To refit, first connect its multi-plug then
push home to secure.
4 Reconnect the battery negative lead.
25 Radio aerial -
removal and refitting
2
Note : The roof-mounted aerial mast section
should be removed prior to using an
automatic carwash. This is achieved by
unscrewing it from the aerial base.
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Unscrew the aerial mast section, then
remove the base section as follows. Insert a
thin flat-bladed screwdriver into the slot in the
interior (courtesy) light assembly and carefully
lever the assembly out.
3 Through the resultant opening, the aerial
base securing screw is accessible. Remove
the screw and detach the aerial base from the
roof of the vehicle, having noted the aerial
lead fitment.
Refitting
4 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, ensuring that the aerial base sits
squarely on the roof. Insert the switch end of
the light assembly to its aperture first, then
pivot the light upwards and push home to
secure.
26 “Lights-on” warning module
- removal and refitting
1
Removal
The “lights-on” warning feature is fitted to
certain models from 1993 onwards. The
warning module, which resembles an ordinary
relay, is located behind the facia, between the
steering column and radio/cassette player. It
can be removed by reaching up behind the
facia and unclipping it from its mounting.
Refitting
Refitting is a reversal of removal.
12•16 Body electrical systems
24.2 Carefully prise the speaker balance control joystick from its location23.5b . . . then disengage the locating
tags (A) from their location on the parcel
shelf support (B)23.5a Remove the rear speaker securing screws . . .
23.3 Remove the screws securing thespeaker assembly to the front door22.3 Radio/cassette player extractor tool
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27 Anti-theft systems-
general information
Anti-theft alarm system
1 This system provides an added form of
vehicle security. When the system is
activated, the alarm will sound if the vehicle is
broken into through any one of the doors, the
bonnet, or tailgate. The alarm will also be
triggered if the ignition system is turned on or
the radio/cassette disconnected whilst the
system is activated.
2 This system is activated/de-activated
whenever one of the front doors is
locked/unlocked by the key. The system
operates on all doors, the bonnet and tailgate
whenever each door is individually locked (or,
in the case of central locking, when the central
locking is engaged). In addition, the
ignition/starting system is also immobilised
when the system is activated.
3 A further security feature included is that
even though the battery may be disconnected
whilst the system is activated, the alarm
activation continues as soon as the battery is
reconnected. Because of this feature, it is
important to ensure that the system is de-
activated before disconnecting the battery at
any time, such as when working on the
vehicle.
4 The system incorporates a diagnostic mode
to enable Ford technicians to quickly identify
any faults in the system. In the event of a
system malfunction, any testing or
component removal and refitting should be
entrusted to a Ford dealer.
Passive Anti-Theft System
(PATS)
5 From 1994 model year onwards, a Passive
Anti-Theft System (PATS) is fitted. This
system, (which works independently of the
standard alarm system) is a vehicle
immobiliser which prevents the engine from
being started unless a specific code,
programmed into the ignition key, is
recognised by the PATS transceiver.
6 The PATS transceiver, fitted around the
ignition switch, decodes a signal from the
ignition key as the key is turned from position
“O” to position “II”. If the coded signal
matches that stored in the memory of the
PATS module, the engine will start. If the
signal is not recognised, the engine will crank
on the starter but will not fire.
28 Air bag (driver’s side) -
removal and refitting
4
Warning: Handle the air bag
with extreme care as a
precaution against personal
injury, and always hold it with the cover facing away from your body. If in
doubt concerning any proposed work
involving the air bag or its control circuitry,
consult a Ford dealer or other qualified
specialist.
Removal
1
Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1). Warning: Before proceeding,
wait a minimum of 15 minutes,
as a precaution against
accidental firing of the air bag.
This period ensures that any stored energy
in the back-up capacitor is dissipated.
2 Undo the screws, and remove the steering
column lower shroud.
3 Undo the two external screws and the two
internal screws and remove the steering
column upper shroud.
4 Turn the steering wheel as necessary so
that one of the air bag module retaining bolts
becomes accessible from the rear of the
steering wheel. Undo the bolt, then turn the
steering wheel again until the second bolt is
accessible. Undo this bolt also.
5 Withdraw the air bag module from the
steering wheel far enough to access the
wiring multi-plug. Some force may be needed
to free the module from the additional steering
wheel spoke retainers.
6 Disconnect the multi-plug from the rear of
the module, and remove the module from the
vehicle. Warning: Position the air bag
module in a safe place, with the
mechanism facing downwards
as a precaution against
accidental operation.
Warning: Do not attempt to
open or repair the air bag unit,
or apply any electrical current to
it. Do not use any air bag which
is visibly damaged or which has been
tampered with.
Refitting
7 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
29 Air bag (passenger’s side) -
removal and refitting
4
Warning: Handle the air bag
with extreme care as a
precaution against personal
injury, and always hold it with
the cover facing away from your body. If in
doubt concerning any proposed work
involving the air bag or its control circuitry,
consult a Ford dealer or other qualified
specialist.
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1). Warning: Before proceeding,
wait a minimum of 15 minutes,
as a precaution against
accidental firing of the air bag.
This period ensures that any stored energy
in the back-up capacitor is dissipated.
2 Remove the facia as described in Chap-
ter 11.
3 Undo the air bag module retaining nuts and
remove the unit from the facia. Warning: Position the air bag
module in a safe place, with the
mechanism facing downwards
as a precaution against
accidental operation.
Warning: Do not attempt to
open or repair the air bag unit,
or apply any electrical current to
it. Do not use any air bag which
is visibly damaged or which has been
tampered with.
Refitting
4 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
30 Air bag control module -
removal and refitting
4
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1). Warning: Before proceeding,
wait a minimum of 15 minutes,
as a precaution against
accidental firing of the air bag
unit. This period ensures that any stored
energy in the back-up capacitor is
dissipated.
2 Remove the module access cover from the
rear of the glovebox.
3 Press the module wiring multi-plug locking
tag upwards then pivot the retaining strap
over and disconnect the multi-plug.
4 Remove the facia as described in Chap-
ter 11.
5 Undo the three retaining bolts and remove
the module from its location.
Refitting
6 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
31 Air bag clock spring -
removal and refitting
4
Removal
1 Remove the steering wheel as described in
Chapter 10.
2 Undo the three retaining screws, and
remove the clock spring from the steering
wheel. As the unit is withdrawn, note which
aperture in the steering wheel the air bag
Body electrical systems 12•17
12
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Introduction
A selection of good tools is a fundamental
requirement for anyone contemplating the
maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle.
For the owner who does not possess any,
their purchase will prove a considerable
expense, offsetting some of the savings made
by doing-it-yourself. However, provided that
the tools purchased meet the relevant national
safety standards and are of good quality, they
will last for many years and prove an
extremely worthwhile investment. To help the average owner to decide which
tools are needed to carry out the various tasks
detailed in this manual, we have compiled
three lists of tools under the following
headings: Maintenance and minor repair,
Repair and overhaul , and Special. Newcomers
to practical mechanics should start off with
the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit, and
confine themselves to the simpler jobs around
the vehicle. Then, as confidence and
experience grow, more difficult tasks can be
undertaken, with extra tools being purchased
as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a
Maintenance and minor repair tool kit can be
built up into a Repair and overhaul tool kit over
a considerable period of time, without any
major cash outlays. The experienced do-it-
yourselfer will have a tool kit good enough for
most repair and overhaul procedures, and will
add tools from the Specialcategory when it is
felt that the expense is justified by the amount
of use to which these tools will be put.
Maintenance and minor repair
tool kit
The tools given in this list should be
considered as a minimum requirement if
routine maintenance, servicing and minor
repair operations are to be undertaken. We
recommend the purchase of combination
spanners (ring one end, open-ended the
other); although more expensive than open-
ended ones, they do give the advantages of
both types of spanner.
M Combination spanners: 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13,
14, 15, 16, 17, 19, 21, 22, 24 & 26 mm
M Adjustable spanner - 35 mm jaw (approx)
M Engine sump/gearbox drain plug key
(where applicable)
M Set of feeler gauges
M Spark plug spanner (with rubber insert)
M Spark plug gap adjustment tool
M Brake bleed nipple spanner
M Screwdrivers: Flat blade and cross blade –
approx 100 mm long x 6 mm dia
M Combination pliers
M Hacksaw (junior)
M Tyre pump
M Tyre pressure gauge
M Grease gun
M Oil can
M Oil filter removal tool
M Fine emery cloth
M Wire brush (small)
M Funnel (medium size)
Repair and overhaul tool kit
These tools are virtually essential for
anyone undertaking any major repairs to a
motor vehicle, and are additional to those
given in the Maintenance and minor repair list.
Included in this list is a comprehensive set of
sockets. Although these are expensive, they
will be found invaluable as they are so
versatile - particularly if various drives are
included in the set. We recommend the half-
inch square-drive type, as this can be used
with most proprietary torque wrenches. If you
cannot afford a socket set, even bought
piecemeal, then inexpensive tubular box
spanners are a useful alternative. The tools in this list will occasionally need
to be supplemented by tools from the Special
list:
M Sockets (or box spanners) to cover range in
previous list (including Torx sockets)
M Reversible ratchet drive (for use with
sockets) (see illustration)
M Extension piece, 250 mm (for use with
sockets)
M Universal joint (for use with sockets)
M Torque wrench (for use with sockets)
M Self-locking grips
M Ball pein hammer
M Soft-faced mallet (plastic/aluminium or
rubber)
M Screwdrivers:
Flat blade - long & sturdy, short (chubby),
and narrow (electrician’s) types
Cross blade - Long & sturdy, and short
(chubby) types
M Pliers:
Long-nosed
Side cutters (electrician’s)
Circlip (internal and external)
M Cold chisel - 25 mm
M Scriber
M Scraper
M Centre-punch
M Pin punch
M Hacksaw
M Brake hose clamp
M Brake bleeding kit
M Selection of twist drills M
Steel rule/straight-edge
M Allen keys (inc. splined/Torx type) (see
illustrations)
M Selection of files
M Wire brush
M Axle stands
M Jack (strong trolley or hydraulic type)
M Light with extension lead
Special tools
The tools in this list are those which are not
used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which
need to be used in accordance with their
manufacturers’ instructions. Unless relatively
difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken
frequently, it will not be economic to buy
many of these tools. Where this is the case,
you could consider clubbing together with
friends (or joining a motorists’ club) to make a
joint purchase, or borrowing the tools against
a deposit from a local garage or tool hire
specialist. It is worth noting that many of the
larger DIY superstores now carry a large
range of special tools for hire at modest rates. The following list contains only those tools
and instruments freely available to the public,
and not those special tools produced by the
vehicle manufacturer specifically for its dealer
network. You will find occasional references
to these manufacturers’ special tools in the
text of this manual. Generally, an alternative
method of doing the job without the vehicle
manufacturers’ special tool is given. However,
sometimes there is no alternative to using
them. Where this is the case and the relevant
tool cannot be bought or borrowed, you will
have to entrust the work to a franchised
garage.
M Valve spring compressor (see illustration)
M Valve grinding tool
M Piston ring compressor (see illustration)
M Piston ring removal/installation tool (see
illustration)
M Cylinder bore hone (see illustration)
M Balljoint separator
M Coil spring compressors (where applicable)
M Two/three-legged hub and bearing puller
(see illustration)
Sockets and reversible ratchet driveSpline bit set
Tools and working facilities REF•7
REF
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1595 Ford Fiesta Remake
MOT test checksREF•13
REF
MExamine the handbrake mechanism,
checking for frayed or broken cables,
excessive corrosion, or wear or insecurity of
the linkage. Check that the mechanism works
on each relevant wheel, and releases fully,
without binding.
M It is not possible to test brake efficiency
without special equipment, but a road test can
be carried out later to check that the vehicle
pulls up in a straight line.
Fuel and exhaust systems
M Inspect the fuel tank (including the filler
cap), fuel pipes, hoses and unions. All
components must be secure and free fr om
leaks.
M Examine the exhaust system over its entire
length, checking for any damaged, broken or
missing mountings, security of the retaining
clamps and rust or corrosion.
Wheels and tyres
M Examine the sidewalls and tread area of
each tyre in turn. Check for cuts, tears, lumps,
bulges, separation of the tread, and exposure
of the ply or cord due to wear or damage.
Check that the tyre bead is correctly seated
on the wheel rim, that the valve is sound and pr
operly seated, and that the wheel is not
distorted or damaged.
M Check that the tyres are of the correct size
for the vehicle, that they are of the same size
and type on each axle, and that the pressur es
ar e correct.
M Check the tyre tread depth. The legal
minimum at the time of writing is 1.6 mm over
at least three-quarters of the tread width.
Abnormal tread wear may indicate incorrect
fr ont wheel alignment.
Body corrosion
M Check the condition of the entire vehicle
structur e for signs of corrosion in load-bearing
ar eas. (These include chassis box sections,
side sills, cross-members, pillars, and all
suspension, steering, braking system and
seat belt mountings and anchorages.) Any
corrosion which has seriously reduced the
thickness of a load-bearing area is likely to
cause the vehicle to fail. In this case
pr ofessional repairs are likely to be needed.
M Damage or corrosion which causes sharp
or otherwise dangerous edges to be exposed
will also cause the vehicle to fail.
Petrol models
M Have the engine at normal operating
temperatur e, and make sure that it is in good
tune (ignition system in good order, air filter
element clean, etc).
M Befor e any measurements are carried out,
raise the engine speed to around 2500 rpm,
and hold it at this speed for 20 seconds. Allow the engine speed to return to idle, and watch
for smoke emissions from the exhaust
tailpipe. If the idle speed is obviously much
too high, or if dense blue or clearly-visible
black smoke comes from the tailpipe for more
than 5 seconds, the vehicle will fail. As a rule
of thumb, blue smoke signifies oil being burnt
(engine wear) while black smoke signifies
unbur nt fuel (dirty air cleaner element, or other
carbur ettor or fuel system fault).
M An exhaust gas analyser capable of
measuring carbon monoxide (CO) and
hydr ocarbons (HC) is now needed. If such an
instrument cannot be hired or borrowed, a
local garage may agree to perform the check
for a small fee.
CO emissions (mixture)
M At the time of writing, the maximum CO
level at idle is 3.5% for vehicles first used after
August 1986 and 4.5% for older vehicles.
Fr om January 1996 a much tighter limit
(ar ound 0.5%) applies to catalyst-equipped
vehicles first used from August 1992. If the
CO level cannot be reduced far enough to
pass the test (and the fuel and ignition
systems are otherwise in good condition) then
the carburettor is badly worn, or there is some
pr oblem in the fuel injection system or
catalytic converter (as applicable).
HC emissionsM With the CO emissions within limits, HC
emissions must be no more than 1200 ppm
(parts per million). If the vehicle fails this test
at idle, it can be re-tested at around 2000 rpm;
if the HC level is then 1200 ppm or less, this
counts as a pass.
M Excessive HC emissions can be caused by
oil being burnt, but they are more likely to be
due to unburnt fuel.
Diesel models
M The only emission test applicable to Diesel
engines is the measuring of exhaust smoke
density . The test involves accelerating the
engine several times to its maximum
unloaded speed.
Note: It is of the utmost importance that the
engine timing belt is in good condition before
the test is carried out.
M
Excessive smoke can be caused by a dirty
air cleaner element. Otherwise, professional
advice may be needed to find the cause.
4Checks carried out on
YOUR VEHICLE’S EXHAUST
EMISSION SYSTEM
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The vehicle owner who does his or her own
maintenance according to the recommended
service schedules should not have to use this
section of the manual very often. Modern
component reliability is such that, provided
those items subject to wear or deterioration
are inspected or renewed at the specified
intervals, sudden failure is comparatively rare.
Faults do not usually just happen as a result of
sudden failure, but develop over a period of
time. Major mechanical failures in particular are usually preceded by characteristic
symptoms over hundreds or even thousands
of miles. Those components which do
occasionally fail without warning are often
small and easily carried in the vehicle.
With any fault-finding, the first step is to
decide where to begin investigations.
Sometimes this is obvious, but on other
occasions, a little detective work will be
necessary. The owner who makes half a
dozen haphazard adjustments or replacements may be successful in curing a
fault (or its symptoms), but will be none the
wiser if the fault recurs, and ultimately may
have spent more time and money than was
necessary. A calm and logical approach will
be found to be more satisfactory in the long
run. Always take into account any warning
signs or abnormalities that may have been
noticed in the period preceding the fault -
power loss, high or low gauge readings,
unusual smells, etc - and remember that
Engine
m
m
Engine backfires
m
m Engine difficult to start when cold
m
m Engine difficult to start when hot
m
m Engine fails to rotate when attempting to start
m
m Engine hesitates on acceleration
m
m Engine idles erratically
m
m Engine lacks power
m
m Engine misfires at idle speed
m
m Engine misfires throughout the driving speed range
m
m Engine noises
m
m Engine rotates, but will not start
m
m Engine runs-on after switching off
m
m Engine stalls
m
m Engine starts, but stops immediately
m
m Oil pressure warning light illuminated with engine running
m
m Starter motor noisy or excessively-rough in engagement
Cooling system
m
mCorrosion
m
m External coolant leakage
m
m Internal coolant leakage
m
m Overcooling
m
m Overheating
Fuel and exhaust systems
m
mExcessive fuel consumption
m
m Excessive noise or fumes from exhaust system
m
m Fuel leakage and/or fuel odour
Clutch
m
mClutch fails to disengage (unable to select gears)
m
m Clutch slips (engine speed increases, with no increase in vehicle
speed)
m m Judder as clutch is engaged
m
m Noise when depressing or releasing clutch pedal
m
m Pedal travels to floor - no pressure or very little resistance
Manual transmission
m
mJumps out of gear
m
m Lubricant leaks
m
m Noisy in neutral with engine running
m
m Noisy in one particular gear
m
m Vibration
Automatic transmission
m
mEngine will not start in any gear, or starts in gears other than Park
or Neutral
m m Fluid leakage
m
m General gear selection problems
m
m Transmission fluid brown, or has burned smell
m
m Transmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy, or has no drive in
forward or reverse gears
m m Transmission will not downshift (kickdown) with accelerator fully
depressed
Driveshafts
m mClicking or knocking noise on turns (at slow speed on full-lock)
m
m Vibration when accelerating or decelerating
Braking system
m
mBrake pedal feels spongy when depressed
m
m Brakes binding
m
m Excessive brake pedal effort required to stop vehicle
m
m Excessive brake pedal travel
m
m Judder felt through brake pedal or steering wheel when braking
m
m Noise (grinding or high-pitched squeal) when brakes applied
m
m Rear wheels locking under normal braking
m
m Vehicle pulls to one side under braking
Suspension and steering systems
m
mExcessive pitching and/or rolling around corners, or during
braking
m m Excessive play in steering
m
m Excessively-stiff steering
m
m Lack of power assistance
m
m Tyre wear excessive
m
m Vehicle pulls to one side
m
m Wandering or general instability
m
m Wheel wobble and vibration
Electrical system
m
mBattery will not hold a charge for more than a few days
m
m Electric windows inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
m
m Horn inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
m
m Ignition warning light fails to come on
m
m Ignition warning light remains illuminated with engine running
m
m Instrument readings inaccurate or erratic
m
m Lights inoperative
m
m Windscreen/tailgate washers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation
m m Windscreen/tailgate wipers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation
REF•14Fault finding
1595 Ford Fiesta Remake
Introduction
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1595 Ford Fiesta Remake
Glossary of technical termsREF•25
REF
JJump startStarting the engine of a vehicle
with a discharged or weak battery by
attaching jump leads from the weak battery to
a charged or helper battery.
LLoad Sensing Proportioning Valve (LSPV) A
brake hydraulic system control valve that
works like a proportioning valve, but also
takes into consideration the amount of weight
carried by the rear axle.
Locknut A nut used to lock an adjustment
nut, or other threaded component, in place.
For example, a locknut is employed to keep
the adjusting nut on the rocker arm in
position.
Lockwasher A form of washer designed to
pr event an attaching nut from working loose.
MMacPherson strut A type of front
suspension system devised by Earle
MacPherson at Ford of England. In its original
form, a simple lateral link with the anti-roll bar
cr eates the lower control arm. A long strut - an
integral coil spring and shock absorber - is
mounted between the body and the steering
knuckle. Many modern so-called MacPherson
strut systems use a conventional lower A-arm
and don’t rely on the anti-roll bar for location. Multimeter An electrical test instrument with
the capability to measure voltage, current and
resistance.
NNOx Oxides of Nitrogen. A common toxic
pollutant emitted by petrol and diesel engines
at higher temperatures.
OOhm The unit of electrical resistance. One
volt applied to a resistance of one ohm will
pr oduce a current of one amp.
Ohmmeter An instrument for measuring
electrical resistance.
O-ring A type of sealing ring made of a
special rubber-like material; in use, the O-ring
is compressed into a groove to provide the
sealing action. Overhead cam (ohc) engine
An engine with
the camshaft(s) located on top of the cylinder
head(s).
Overhead valve (ohv) engine An engine with
the valves located in the cylinder head, but
with the camshaft located in the engine block.
Oxygen sensor A device installed in the
engine exhaust manifold, which senses the
oxygen content in the exhaust and converts
this information into an electric current. Also
called a Lambda sensor.
PPhillips screw A type of screw head having a
cr oss instead of a slot for a corresponding
type of screwdriver.
Plastigage A thin strip of plastic thread,
available in different sizes, used for measuring clearances. For example, a strip of Plastigage
is laid across a bearing journal. The parts areassembled and dismantled; the width of the
crushed strip indicates the clearance between
jour nal and bearing.
Pr opeller shaft The long hollow tube with
universal joints at both ends that carries
power from the transmission to the differential on front-engined rear wheel drive vehicles.
Pr oportioning valve A hydraulic control
valve which limits the amount of pressure to
the rear brakes during panic stops to prevent
wheel lock-up.
RRack-and-pinion steering A steering system
with a pinion gear on the end of the steering
shaft that mates with a rack (think of a geared
wheel opened up and laid flat). When the
steering wheel is turned, the pinion turns,
moving the rack to the left or right. This
movement is transmitted through the track
r ods to the steering arms at the wheels.
Radiator A liquid-to-air heat transfer device
designed to reduce the temperature of the
coolant in an internal combustion engine
cooling system.
Refrigerant Any substance used as a heat
transfer agent in an air-conditioning system.
R-12 has been the principle refrigerant for
many years; recently, however, manufacturers
have begun using R-134a, a non-CFC
substance that is considered less harmful to the ozone in the upper atmosphere.
Rocker arm
A lever arm that rocks on a shaft
or pivots on a stud. In an overhead valve
engine, the rocker arm converts the upward
movement of the pushrod into a downward
movement to open a valve.
Rotor In a distributor, the rotating device
inside the cap that connects the centre
electr ode and the outer terminals as it turns,
distributing the high voltage from the coil
secondary winding to the proper spark plug.
Also, that part of an alternator which rotates
inside the stator. Also, the rotating assembly
of a turbocharger, including the compressor
wheel, shaft and turbine wheel.
Runout The amount of wobble (in-and-out
movement) of a gear or wheel as it’ s rotated.
The amount a shaft rotates “out-of-true.” The
out-of-r ound condition of a rotating part.
SSealant A liquid or paste used to prevent
leakage at a joint. Sometimes used in
conjunction with a gasket.
Sealed beam lamp An older headlight design
which integrates the reflector, lens and
filaments into a hermetically-sealed one-piece
unit. When a filament burns out or the lens
cracks, the entire unit is simply replaced.
Serpentine drivebelt A single, long, wide
accessory drivebelt that’s used on some
newer vehicles to drive all the accessories,
instead of a series of smaller, shorter belts.
Serpentine drivebelts are usually tensioned by
an automatic tensioner.
Shim Thin spacer, commonly used to adjust
the clearance or relative positions between
two parts. For example, shims inserted into or
under bucket tappets control valve
clearances. Clearance is adjusted by
changing the thickness of the shim.
Slide hammer A special puller that screws
into or hooks onto a component such as a
shaft or bearing; a heavy sliding handle on the
shaft bottoms against the end of the shaft to
knock the component free.
Sprocket A tooth or projection on the
periphery of a wheel, shaped to engage with a
chain or drivebelt. Commonly used to refer to
the sprocket wheel itself.
Starter inhibitor switch On vehicles with an
O-ring
Serpentine drivebelt
Plastigage
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