alternator FORD FIESTA 1989 Service Repair Manual

Ignition system
Firing order:HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 1-2-4-3 (No 1 cylinder at timing chain end of engine)
All other engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . 1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end of engine)
Spark plugs*:
HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . Champion RS9YCC or RS9YC
1.4 and 1.6 litre CVH (carburettor) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RC7YCC or RC7YC
1.6 litre CVH (EFi fuel injection) and PTE engines Non-turbo models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . Champion RC7YCC4 or RC7YC4
Turbo models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . Champion C61YC
1.6 and 1.8 litre Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RE7YCC
Electrode gap*:
HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 1.0 mm
1.4 litre CVH (carburettor) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 mm
1.4 litre CVH (CFi fuel injection) and PTE engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm
1.6 litre CVH (carburettor) engines: With Champion RC7YCC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 mmWith Champion RC7YC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.7 mm
1.6 litre CVH (EFi fuel injection) engines: Non-turbo models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 1.0 mm
Turbo models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . 0.7 mm
1.6 and 1.8 litre Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.3 mm
Spark plug (HT) leads: HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . Champion LS-28
1.4 and 1.6 litre CVH (carburettor) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-14
1.4 litre CVH (CFi fuel injection) and PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-14
1.6 litre CVH (EFi fuel injection) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-26
1.6 and 1.8 litre Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion type not available
Maximum resistance per lead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 000 ohms * Information on spark plug types and electrode gaps is as recommended b\
y Champion Spark Plug. Where alternative types are used, refer to their
manufacturer’s recommendations.
Braking system
Minimum front brake pad lining thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 mm
Minimum rear brake shoe lining thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm
Tyres
Tyre pressures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . See “Weekly Checks”
Wiper blades
Windscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . Champion X-4803Tailgate/rear window . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . Champion X-4103
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Auxiliary drivebelt cover fasteners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6
Auxiliary drivebelt adjustment: Adjusting bolt (sliding arm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2216
Central (locking) bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 2216
Pinion (adjuster) nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 129
Alternator mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2418
Tensioner pulley centre bolt (HCS engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2015
Engine oil drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . 2418
Manual transmission filler/level plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2015
Spark plugs: HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 1813
CVH and PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
2418
Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . 1511
Roadwheel nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . 71 to 100 52 to 74
Servicing Specifications1•3
1
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Maintenance – component location1•5
1 Engine oil filler cap
2 Engine oil level dipstick
3 Cooling system expansion tank
4 Brake fluid reservoir
5 Windscreen/tailgate washer fluid reservoircap
6 Battery
7 Vehicle identification plate
8 Thermostat housing
9 Pre-heat tube
10 Timing belt cover
11 Distributor
12 Fuel filter
13 Heater blower motor cover
14 Windscreen wiper motor mounting bracket
15 Jack and wheelbrace retaining bolt
16 Top of suspension strut mounting
assembly
17 EEC IV engine management module cover
18 CFi unit
19 Fuel injector
20 Fuel pressure regulator
21 Throttle plate control motor
22 Carbon canister
23 Manifold absolute pressure sensor
24 Ignition module
1.1 litre HCS carburettor engine (air cleaner removed for clarity)
1
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
1.4 litre CVH CFi fuel injection engine (air cleaner removed for clarity)
1 Engine oil filler cap
2 Engine oil level dipstick
3 Cooling system expansion tank
4 Brake fluid reservoir
5 Windscreen/tailgate washer fluid reservoir
cap
6 Battery
7 Vehicle identification plate
8 Thermostat housing
9 Radiator cooling fan thermal switch multi- plug
10 Alternator
11 Starter motor solenoid
12 CTX automatic transmission fluid level
dipstick
13 Exhaust heatshield/airbox
14 Brake pressure control valves
15 Top of suspension strut mounting
assembly
16 Carburettor
17 Fuel feed hose
18 Anti-dieselling (fuel-cut off) solenoid
connection
19 Throttle kicker
20 Throttle kicker control solenoid
21 Ignition module
22 Heater blower motor cover
23 Windscreen wiper motor mounting bracket
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Maintenance – component location1•7
1
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Front underside view of the 1.4 litre CVH CFi fuel injection model
1 Engine oil sump
2 Front suspension lower arm
3 Brake caliper assembly
4 Driveshaft
5 Alternator
6 Auxiliary drivebelt cover
7 Steering rack gaiter
8 Windscreen/tailgate washer pump
9 Carbon canister
10 Oxygen sensor
11 Catalytic converter (exhaust) rubber
insulator mounting
12 Catalytic converter assembly
13 Underbody heatshields
14 Gearchange mechanism shift rod
15 Gearchange mechanism stabiliser bar
Front underside view of the 1.8 litre (XR2i) Zetec SEFi fuel injection model
1 Engine oil drain plug
2 Front suspension lower arm
3 Brake caliper assembly
4 Driveshaft
5 Alternator
6 Auxiliary drivebelt cover
7 Horn
8 Windscreen/tailgate washer pump
9 Carbon canister
10 Oxygen sensor
11 Front suspension crossmember
12 Catalytic converter
13 Underbody heat shields
14 Gearchange mechanism shift rod
15 Gearchange mechanism stabiliser bar
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4 Auxiliary drivebelt check andrenewal
2
General
1The number of auxiliary drivebelts fitted and
their type depends on engine, and on whether
the vehicle is equipped with power steering.
The drivebelt(s) are located on the right-hand
end of the engine and will be either of the V-
belt type or the flat, multi-ribbed (or “polyvee”)
type. The belt drives the alternator, water
pump and, on CVH and Zetec engines with
power steering, the power steering pump
from the engine’s crankshaft pulley. On HCS
engines with power steering, one belt drives
the alternator and water pump and a separate
belt drives the power steering pump.
2 The good condition and proper tension of
the auxiliary drivebelt is critical to the
operation of the engine. Because of their
composition and the high stresses to which
they are subjected, drivebelts stretch and
deteriorate as they get older. They must,
therefore, be regularly inspected.
Check
3 With the engine switched off, open and
support the bonnet, then locate the auxiliary
drivebelt(s) on the right-hand end of the
engine (Be very careful, and wear protective
gloves to minimise the risk of burning your
hands on hot components, if the engine has
recently been running). For improved access,
jack up the front right-hand side of the
vehicle, support it securely on an axle
stand, remove the roadwheel, then (where
fitted) remove the auxiliary drivebelt lower
cover from inside the wheel arch (see
illustration) .
4 Using an inspection light or an electric
torch, and rotating the engine when necessary
with a spanner applied to the crankshaft
pulley bolt, check the whole length of the drivebelt(s) for cracks, separation of the
rubber, and torn or worn ribs
(see
illustration) . Also check for fraying and
glazing, which gives the drivebelt a shiny
appearance. Both sides of the drivebelt(s)
should be inspected, which means you will
have to twist the drivebelt(s) to check the
underside. Feel the relevant drivebelt where
you can’t see it. If you are in any doubt as to
the condition of the drivebelt(s), renewal is
necessary (go to paragraph 23).
Drivebelt tension
5 The tension must be adjusted manually on
all V-belt type drivebelts, on flat “polyvee”
type drivebelts fitted to early Zetec engines,
and on “polyvee” type drivebelts fitted to HCS
engines to drive the power steering pump.
The “polyvee” type drivebelts used on later
Zetec engines and PTE engines are fitted with
an automatic tensioner to maintain the correct
belt adjustment.
6 For models on which the tension can be
adjusted manually, open the bonnet. Jack up the front right-hand side of the vehicle, and
support it securely on an axle stand. Remove
the roadwheel, then (where fitted) remove the
auxiliary drivebelt lower cover from inside the
wheel arch.
7
Ford technicians use a special tension gauge
and various other special tools for checking
drivebelt adjustment, but for DIY purposes,
checking the belt tension using finger pressure
gives a good indication of correct adjustment.
Apply firm finger pressure midway between the
pulleys on the longest run of the belt, and look
for a deflection of approximately 2.0 mm (i.e. a
total drivebelt “swing” of approximately
4.0 mm) (see illustration) .
8 If adjustment is necessary, proceed as
follows according to belt type.
V-belt with sliding arm type adjuster
9 Loosen off the alternator mounting bolts
and sliding arm adjustment bolts, pivot the
alternator as required to provide the correct
drivebelt tension, then retighten the bolts to
secure (see illustration) .
10 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt cover (where
applicable) and roadwheel, then lower the
vehicle to the ground.
11 Run the engine for about five minutes,
then recheck the tension.
Every 10 000 miles (16 000 km) or 12 months,
whichever comes first
Every 10 000 miles or 12 months1•11
4.9 Alternator sliding arm adjustment
bolt (A) and sliding arm mounting bolt (B) - V-belt with sliding arm type adjuster
4.7 Checking drivebelt adjustment - V-belt types
Note that the 4 mm dimension is the total belt swing and is equal to 2 mm of deflection
4.3 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt lower cover from inside the wheel arch
1
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
4.4 Check the auxiliary drivebelt forsigns of wear like these. Very small
cracks across the drivebelt ribs are acceptable. If the cracks are deep, or if the drivebelt looks worn or
damaged in any other way, renew it. This is the “polyvee” type belt, butthe checks on the V-belt type are the same
Turning the engine will be
much easier if the spark
plugs are removed first
(Section 21).
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V-belt and flat “polyvee” type
drivebelt with rack-and-pinion type
adjuster
12Loosen off the alternator mounting bolts
and the adjusting arm mounting bolt. Slacken
the pinion central locking bolt, and turn the
pinion nut as required to take up the tension
of the drivebelt. Hold it at the required setting,
and tighten the central bolt securely to lock
the adjuster arm and set the tension (see
illustrations) .
13 Tighten the alternator mounting and
adjusting arm bolts securely.
14 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt cover (where
applicable) and roadwheel, then lower the
vehicle to the ground.
15 Run the engine for about five minutes,
then recheck the tension.
Flat “polyvee” type drivebelt with
tensioner pulley adjuster (HCS engine
power steering pump drivebelt)
16 Slacken the tensioner pulley centre bolt
then turn the adjuster bolt at the base of the
tensioner pulley bracket, as required, to take
up the tension of the drivebelt. When the belt
deflection is correct, tighten the adjuster
pulley centre retaining bolt.
17 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt cover (where
applicable) and roadwheel, then lower the
vehicle to the ground.
18 Run the engine for about five minutes,
then recheck the tension.
Flat “polyvee” type drivebelt with
automatic adjuster
19 As mentioned above, this type of drivebelt
is tensioned by an automatic tensioner;
regular checks are not required, and manual
“adjustment” is not possible.
20 If you suspect that the drivebelt is slipping
and/or running slack, or that the tensioner is
otherwise faulty, it must be renewed. To do
this, remove the drivebelt as described below,
then unbolt and remove the tensioner. On
fitting the new tensioner, ensure that it is
aligned correctly on its mountings, and
tightened to the specified torque wrench
setting.
Renewal
21 Open the bonnet. Jack up the front right-
hand side of the vehicle, and support it
securely on an axle stand. Remove the
roadwheel, then remove the auxiliary drivebelt
lower cover (where fitted) from inside the
wheel arch.
22 The routing of the drivebelt around the
pulleys is dependent on the drivebelt type,
and on whether power steering is fitted.
Before removing the drivebelt, it’s a good idea
to sketch the belt run around the pulleys; this
will save a lot of frustration when it comes to
refitting. Note that on HCS engines with
power steering, to renew the alternator/
water pump drivebelt it will be necessary to
remove the power steering pump drivebelt
first.
23 If the existing drivebelt is to be refitted,
mark it, or note the maker’s markings on its
flat surface, so that it can be installed the
same way round.
24 To renew a drivebelt with manual
adjustment, slacken the belt tension fully as
described above, according to type. Slip the
belt off the pulleys, then fit the new belt,
ensuring that it is routed correctly. If fitting a
flat “polyvee” type drivebelt, arrange it on the
grooved pulleys so that it is centred in
their grooves, and not overlapping their raised
sides. With the belt in position, adjust the
tension as previously described.
25 To renew the flat, “polyvee” type drivebelt
with automatic adjuster, reach up between
the body and the engine (above the
crankshaft pulley), and apply a spanner to the
hexagon in the centre of the automatic
tensioner’s pulley. Rotate the tensioner pulley
clockwise to release its pressure on the
drivebelt, then slip the drivebelt off the
crankshaft pulley, and release the tensioner
again (see illustration) . Note that on certain
models, a self-cocking tensioner is fitted, and
that this will remain in the released position.
Working from the wheel arch or engine
compartment as necessary, and noting its
routing, slip the drivebelt off the remaining
pulleys and withdraw it.
26 Check all the pulleys, ensuring that their
grooves are clean, and removing all traces of oil and grease. Check that the tensioner
works properly, with strong spring pressure
being felt when its pulley is rotated clockwise,
and a smooth return to the limit of its travel
when released.
27
If the original drivebelt is being refitted,
use the marks or notes made on removal, to
ensure that it is installed to run in the same
direction as it was previously. To fit the
drivebelt, arrange it on the grooved pulleys so
that it is centred in their grooves, and not
overlapping their raised sides, and is routed
correctly. Start at the top, and work down to
finish at the crankshaft pulley; rotate the
tensioner pulley clockwise, slip the drivebelt
onto the crankshaft pulley, then release the
tensioner again.
28 Using a spanner applied to the crankshaft
pulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft through at
least two full turns clockwise to settle the
drivebelt on the pulleys, then check that
the drivebelt is properly installed.
29 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt cover (where
applicable) and roadwheel, then lower the
vehicle to the ground.
5 Underbonnet check for fluid leaks and hose condition
1
General
1High temperatures in the engine
compartment can cause the deterioration of
the rubber and plastic hoses used for engine,
accessory and emissions systems operation.
Periodic inspection should be made for
cracks, loose clamps, material hardening and
leaks.
2 Carefully check the large top and bottom
radiator hoses, along with the other smaller-
diameter cooling system hoses and metal
pipes; do not forget the heater hoses/pipes
which run from the engine to the bulkhead.
Inspect each hose along its entire length,
replacing any that is cracked, swollen or
shows signs of deterioration. Cracks may
become more apparent if the hose is
1•12Every 10 000 miles or 12 months
4.25 Automatic drivebelt tensioner - “polyvee” type drivebelt
Turn tensioner clockwise to release tension4.12b When the tension is correct, hold
the adjuster nut, and tighten the central bolt securely to lock the adjuster arm4.12a Rack-and-pinion type auxiliary drivebelt adjuster
A Adjuster arm
B Pinion (adjuster) nut
C Central (locking) bolt
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Torque wrench settingsNmlbf ft
Cylinder head cover bolts: Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . 2 1.5
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5
Camshaft sprocket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
6850
Camshaft bearing cap bolts: Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . 1914
Cylinder head bolts: Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . 2418
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . 4533
Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 105º
Timing belt cover fasteners: Upper-to-middle (outer) cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 3
Cover-to-cylinder head or block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5
Cover studs-to-cylinder head or block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7
Timing belt tensioner bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
3828
Timing belt tensioner backplate locating peg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7
Timing belt tensioner spring retaining pin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7
Timing belt guide pulley bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3828
Water pump pulley bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. 9 7
Auxiliary drivebelt idler pulley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4735
Front engine lifting eye bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1612
Exhaust manifold heat shield bolts: Shield-to-cylinder head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5
Shield/dipstick tube . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 9 7
Shield/coolant pipe-to-manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2317
Crankshaft pulley bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . 115 85
Oil pump-to-cylinder block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107
Oil pick-up pipe-to-pump screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107
Oil baffle/pump pick-up pipe nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1914
Oil filter adapter-to-pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
2216
Oil pressure warning light switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2720
Sump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . 2015
Coolant pipe-to-sump bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7
Flywheel/driveplate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
110 81
Crankshaft left-hand oil seal carrier bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2216
Engine mountings: Engine front right-hand mounting:Alternator mounting bracket-to-cylinder block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . 41 to 58 30 to 43
Mounting bracket-to-alternator mounting bracket bolts . . . . . . . . Not available Not available
Mounting through-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Not available Not available
Outer bracket-to-mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 to 79 43 to 58
Inner bracket-to-body bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 to 79 43 to 58
Outer bracket-to-body bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 to 79 43 to 58
Engine rear right-hand mounting: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bracket-to-cylinder block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 to 104 56 to 77
Mounting-to-(cylinder block) bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 to 98 52 to 72
Mounting-to-body bolt and nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 to 138 75 to 102
Transmission mounting fasteners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Refer to Chapter 7A or 7B
Note: Refer to Part D of this Chapter for remaining torque wrench settings.
2C•2 Zetec engine in-car repair procedures
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
1 General information
How to use this Chapter
This Part of Chapter 2 is devoted to repair
procedures possible while the engine is still
installed in the vehicle, and includes only the
Specifications relevant to those procedures.
Similar information concerning the 1.3 litre
HCS engines, and the 1.4 and 1.6 litre CVH
and PTE engines, will be found in Parts A
and B of this Chapter respectively. Since these procedures are based on the
assumption that the engine is installed in the
vehicle, if the engine has been removed from
the vehicle and mounted on a stand, some
of the preliminary dismantling steps outlined
will not apply.
Information concerning engine/transmission
removal and refitting, and engine overhaul, can
be found in Part D of this Chapter, which also
includes the Specifications relevant to those
procedures.
Engine description
The Zetec engine, (formerly Zeta), is of
sixteen-valve, double overhead camshaft (DOHC), four-cylinder, in-line type, mounted
transversely at the front of the vehicle, with
the transmission on its left-hand end.
Apart from the plastic timing belt covers
and the cast-iron cylinder block/crankcase, all
major engine castings are of aluminium alloy. The crankshaft runs in five main bearings,
the centre main bearing’s upper half
incorporating thrustwashers to control
crankshaft endfloat. The connecting rods
rotate on horizontally-split bearing shells at
their big-ends. The pistons are attached to the
connecting rods by gudgeon pins which are
an interference fit in the connecting rod small-
end eyes. The aluminium alloy pistons are
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fitted with three piston rings: two
compression rings and an oil control ring.
After manufacture, the cylinder bores and
piston skirts are measured and classified into
three grades, which must be carefully
matched together, to ensure the correct
piston/cylinder clearance; no oversizes are
available to permit reboring.The inlet and exhaust valves are each
closed by coil springs; they operate in guides
which are shrink-fitted into the cylinder head,
as are the valve seat inserts. Both camshafts are driven by the same
toothed timing belt, each operating eight
valves via self-adjusting hydraulic tappets,
thus eliminating the need for routine checking
and adjustment of the valve clearances. Each
camshaft rotates in five bearings that are line-
bored directly in the cylinder head and the
(bolted-on) bearing caps; this means that the
bearing caps are not available separately from
the cylinder head, and must not be
interchanged with caps from another engine. The water pump is bolted to the right-hand
end of the cylinder block, inboard of the
timing belt, and is driven with the power
steering pump and alternator by a flat
“polyvee”-type auxiliary drivebelt from the
crankshaft pulley.
When working on this engine, note that
Torx-type (both male and female heads) and
hexagon socket (Allen head) fasteners are
widely used; a good selection of bits, with the
necessary adapters, will be required, so that
these can be unscrewed without damage and,
on reassembly, tightened to the torque
wrench settings specified. Lubrication is by means of an eccentric-
rotor trochoidal pump, which is mounted on
the crankshaft right-hand end, and draws oil
through a strainer located in the sump. The
pump forces oil through an externally-
mounted full-flow cartridge-type filter - on
some versions of the engine, an oil cooler is
fitted to the oil filter mounting, so that clean oil
entering the engine’s galleries is cooled by the
main engine cooling system.
Repair operations possible with
the engine in the car
The following work can be carried out with
the engine in the car:
a) Compression pressure - testing.
b) Cylinder head cover - removal and
refitting.
c) Timing belt covers - removal and refitting.
d) Timing belt - renewal.
e) Timing belt tensioner and sprockets - removal and refitting.
f) Camshaft oil seals - renewal.
g) Camshafts and hydraulic tappets - removal and refitting.
h) Cylinder head - removal and refitting.
i) Cylinder head and pistons - decarbonising.
j) Sump - removal and refitting.
k) Crankshaft oil seals - renewal.
l) Oil pump - removal and refitting. m)
Flywheel/driveplate - removal and
refitting.
n) Engine/transmission mountings - removal and refitting.
Note: It is possible to remove the pistons and
connecting rods (after removing the cylinder
head and sump) without removing the engine.
However, this is not recommended. Work of
this nature is more easily and thoroughly
completed with the engine on the bench, as
described in Chapter 2D.
2 Compression test -
description and interpretation
2
Refer to Section 2 in Part A of this Chapter.
3 Top Dead Centre (TDC) for No 1 piston - locating
2
1Top dead centre (TDC) is the highest point
of the cylinder that each piston reaches as the
crankshaft turns. Each piston reaches its TDC
position at the end of its compression stroke,
and then again at the end of its exhaust
stroke. For the purpose of engine timing, TDC
on the compression stroke for No 1 piston is
used. No 1 cylinder is at the timing belt end of
the engine. Proceed as follows.
2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
3 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the right-hand roadwheel.
4 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt cover (see
Chapter 1) to expose the crankshaft pulley
and timing marks.
5 Fit a spanner onto the crankshaft pulley
bolt, and turn the crankshaft in its normal
direction of rotation (clockwise, viewed from
the pulley end). 6
Note the two pairs of notches in the inner
and outer rims of the crankshaft pulley. In the
normal direction of crankshaft rotation the first
pair of notches are irrelevant to the vehicles
covered in this manual, while the second pair
indicate TDC when aligned with the rear edge
of the raised mark on the sump. Rotate the
crankshaft clockwise until the second pair of
notches align with the edge of the sump mark;
use a straight edge extended out from the
sump if greater accuracy is required (see
illustrations) .
7 Nos 1 and 4 cylinders are now at TDC, one
of them on the compression stroke. Remove
the oil filler cap; if No 4 cylinder exhaust cam
lobe is pointing to the rear of the vehicle and
slightly downwards, it is No 1 cylinder that is
correctly positioned. If the lobe is pointing
horizontally forwards, rotate the crankshaft
one full turn (360º) clockwise until the pulley
notches align again, and the lobe is pointing
to the rear and slightly down. No 1 cylinder
will then be at TDC on the compression
stroke.
8 Once No 1 cylinder has been positioned at
TDC on the compression stroke, TDC for any
of the other cylinders can then be located by
rotating the crankshaft clockwise 180º at a
time and following the firing order (see
Specifications).
9 With the engine set at No 1 piston on TDC
compression, refit the drivebelt cover and the
roadwheel, then lower the vehicle and refit the
spark plugs.
4 Cylinder head cover -
removal and refitting
1
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Remove the air inlet components as
necessary for access as described in the
Chapter 4D.
3 Disconnect the accelerator cable from the
throttle linkage as described in Chapter 4D.
4 On models equipped with power steering,
release the high pressure fluid pipe from the
Zetec engine in-car repair procedures 2C•3
3.6b . . . use a straight edge extended out from the sump (arrowed) if greater
accuracy is required3.6a Do not use crankshaft pulley’s first
pair of notches “A” - align second pair of
notches “B” with raised rib on sump “C” . . .
2C
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Turning the engine will be
easier if the spark plugs are
removed first - see Chapter 1.
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clamp brackets and disconnect the pipe joint
union over the top of the cylinder head cover.
Place absorbent rags beneath the union as it
is disconnected to soak up escaping fluid and
plug the open unions to prevent dirt entry and
further fluid loss. Move the pipe(s) clear just
sufficiently to allow removal of the cylinder
head cover.
5Remove the timing belt upper cover (see
Section 7).
6 Disconnect the crankcase breather hose
from the cylinder head cover union (see
illustration) .
7 Unplug the HT leads from the spark plugs
and withdraw them, unclipping the leads from
the cover.
8 Working progressively, unscrew the
cylinder head cover retaining bolts, noting the
spacer sleeve and rubber seal at each, then
withdraw the cover (see illustration).
9 Discard the cover gasket; this mustbe
renewed whenever it is disturbed. Check that
the sealing faces are undamaged, and that the
rubber seal at each retaining bolt is
serviceable; renew any worn or damaged
seals.
Refitting
10 On refitting, clean the cover and cylinder
head gasket faces carefully, then fit a new
gasket to the cover, ensuring that it locates
correctly in the cover grooves (see illustration).
11 Refit the cover to the cylinder head, then
insert the rubber seal and spacer sleeve at
each bolt location (see illustration). Start allbolts finger-tight, ensuring that the gasket
remains seated in its groove.
12
Working in a diagonal sequence from the
centre outwards, and in two stages (see
Specifications), tighten the cover bolts to the
specified torque wrench setting.
13 Refit the HT leads, clipping them into
place so that they are correctly routed; each is
numbered, and can also be identified by the
numbering on its respective coil terminal.
14 Reconnect the crankcase breather hose,
and refit the timing belt upper cover.
Reconnect and adjust the accelerator cable,
then refit the air inlet components (see
Chapter 4B).
15 On models with power steering,
reconnect the high pressure fluid pipe then
bleed the system as described in Chapter 10.
5 Valve clearances -
general information
Refer to Section 5 in Part B of this Chapter.
6 Crankshaft pulley -
removal and refitting
1
Removal
1 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt - either
remove the drivebelt completely, or just secure it clear of the crankshaft pulley,
depending on the work to be carried out (see
Chapter 1).
2
If necessary, rotate the crankshaft until the
timing marks align (see Section 3).
3 The crankshaft must now be locked to
prevent its rotation while the pulley bolt is
unscrewed. To do this, remove the starter
motor (Chapter 5A) and lock the starter ring
gear teeth using a suitable screwdriver.
4 It should now just be possible to reach
between the crankshaft pulley and the body
side member to undo and remove the pulley
bolt and withdraw the pulley. However, if
additional working clearance is needed,
proceed as follows.
5 If not already done, chock the rear wheels
then jack up the front of the car and support it
on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle
Support” ). Remove the front right-hand
roadwheel.
6 Support the weight of the
engine/transmission using a trolley jack, with
a wooden spacer to prevent damage to the
sump.
7 From above, unscrew the three bolts
securing the engine’s front right-hand (Y-
shaped) mounting bracket to the alternator
mounting bracket. Unfasten the engine’s rear
right-hand mounting from the body by
unscrewing first the single nut (and washer)
immediately to the rear of the timing belt
cover, then the bolt in the wheel arch
8 With the engine’s right-hand mountings
unfastened from the body, lower the
engine/transmission on the jack until a socket
spanner can be fitted to the crankshaft pulley
bolt.
9 With the starter ring gear teeth locked,
unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt and
withdraw the pulley (see illustration).
Refitting
10Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure; ensure that the pulley’s keyway is
aligned with the crankshaft’s locating key, and
tighten the pulley bolt to the specified torque
wrench setting. If the engine mountings were
disturbed, use the jack to adjust the height of
the engine/transmission until the bolts (and
nut, with washer) can be refitted and screwed
2C•4 Zetec engine in-car repair procedures
6.9 Unscrew pulley bolt to release
crankshaft pulley4.11 Ensure rubber seal is fitted to eachcover bolt spacer, as shown
4.10 Ensure gasket is located correctly in cover groove4.8 Removing cylinder head cover
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
4.6 Disconnecting crankcase breather
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4Check the mountings to see if the rubber is
cracked, hardened or separated from the
metal components. Sometimes, the rubber
will split right down the centre.
5 Check for relative movement between each
mounting’s brackets and the engine/
transmission or body (use a large screwdriver
or lever to attempt to move the mountings). If
movement is noted, lower the engine and
check-tighten the mounting fasteners.
Renewal
6 The engine mountings can be removed if
the weight of the engine/transmission is
supported by one of the following alternative
methods.
7 Either support the weight of the assembly
from underneath using a jack and a suitable
piece of wood between the jack saddle and
the sump or transmission (to prevent
damage), or from above by attaching a hoist
to the engine. A third method is to use a
suitable support bar with end pieces which
will engage in the water channel each side of
the bonnet lid aperture. Using an adjustable
hook and chain connected to the engine, the
weight of the engine and transmission can
then be taken from the mountings.
Engine front right-hand mounting
8 This mounting consists of a two-piece
bracket bolted to the inner wing panel,
connected by the bonded-rubber mounting
itself to a (Y-shaped) bracket, bolted (via the
alternator mounting bracket) to the cylinder
block (see illustration) .
9 Unscrew the three bolts securing the front
right-hand mounting bracket to the alternator
mounting bracket.
10 Unscrew the bolts securing the mounting
bracket to the inner wing panel and chassis
rail and withdraw the mounting assembly.
Engine rear right-hand mounting
11 This mounting consists of the bonded-
rubber mounting secured to the inner wing
panel by a (horizontal) bolt, accessible from
within the wheel arch, and a (vertical) stud, the
retaining nut of which is accessible from the
engine compartment. The mounting is bolted
to a bracket, which is in turn bolted to the
cylinder block.
12 Unbolt the mounting from the body by
unscrewing first the single nut (and washer)
immediately to the rear of the timing belt
cover, then the bolt in the wheel arch.
13 Unbolt the mounting from the cylinder
block bracket and withdraw the mounting
assembly.
Transmission bearer and mountings
14 On XR2i models, remove the front
suspension crossmember as described in
Chapter 10.
15 Unscrew and remove the two nuts
securing the mountings (front and rear) to the
transmission bearer
16 Support the transmission bearer, then
undo and remove the four retaining bolts from
the floorpan, two at the front and two at the
rear, and lower the transmission bearer from
the vehicle. Note plate fitment, as applicable,
for reassembly.
17 To remove the mountings from the
transmission, unscrew the upper bolt and
lower stud (front mounting) or the three nuts
(rear mounting) and withdraw the relevant
mounting and bracket assembly from the
transmission.
All mountings
18 Refitting of all mountings is a reversal of
removal. Make sure that the original sequence
of assembly of washers and plates is
maintained.
19 Do not fully tighten any mounting bolts
until they are all located. As the mounting
bolts and nuts are tightened, check that the
mounting rubbers do not twist.
17 Flywheel/driveplate -
removal, inspection and
refitting
3
Removal
1 Remove the transmission (see the relevant
Part of Chapter 7).
2 Where appropriate, remove the clutch
(Chapter 6).
3 Use a centre-punch or paint to make alignment marks on the flywheel/driveplate
and crankshaft, to ensure correct alignment
during refitting.
4
Prevent the flywheel/driveplate from turning
by locking the ring gear teeth, or by bolting a
strap between the flywheel/driveplate and the
cylinder block/crankcase. Slacken the bolts
evenly until all are free.
5 Remove each bolt in turn, and ensure that
new replacements are obtained for
reassembly; these bolts are subjected to
severe stresses, and so must be renewed,
regardless of their apparent condition,
whenever they are disturbed.
6 Noting the reinforcing plate (automatic
transmission models only), withdraw the
flywheel/driveplate; do not drop it - it is very
heavy.
Inspection
7 Clean the flywheel/driveplate to remove
grease and oil. Inspect the surface for cracks,
rivet grooves, burned areas and score marks.
Light scoring can be removed with emery
cloth. Check for cracked and broken ring gear
teeth. Lay the flywheel/driveplate on a flat
surface, and use a straight edge to check for
warpage.
8 Clean and inspect the mating surfaces of
the flywheel/driveplate and the crankshaft. If
the crankshaft left-hand seal is leaking, renew
it (see Section 15) before refitting the
flywheel/driveplate.
9 While the flywheel/driveplate is removed,
clean carefully its inboard (right-hand) face,
particularly the recesses which serve as the
reference points for the crankshaft speed/
position sensor. Clean the sensor’s tip, and
check that the sensor is securely fastened.
Refitting
10 On refitting, ensure that the engine/
transmission adapter plate is in place (where
necessary), then fit the flywheel/driveplate to
the crankshaft so that all bolt holes align - it
will fit only one way - check this using the
marks made on removal. Do not forget the
reinforcing plate (automatic transmission
models).
11 Lock the flywheel/driveplate by the
method used on dismantling. Working in a
diagonal sequence to tighten them evenly,
and increasing to the final amount in two or
three stages, tighten the new bolts to the
specified torque wrench setting.
12 The remainder of reassembly is the
reverse of the removal procedure, referring to
the relevant text for details where required.
2C•16 Zetec engine in-car repair procedures
16.8 Engine front right-hand mounting
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7Refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 4 for
details, and disconnect the accelerator cable
from the throttle linkage and support/adjuster
bracket. Where applicable, also disconnect
the choke cable. Position the cable(s) out of
the way.
8 On carburettor models, disconnect the fuel
supply hose from the fuel pump, and the
return hose from the carburettor.
9 On CFi models, detach the fuel hose at the
injector/pressure regulator unit, and the return
line, by compressing the couplings whilst
pulling the hoses free from their connections.
On EFi and SEFi models, unscrew the union
nut to detach the fuel line from the fuel rail;
release the retaining clip to detach the return
pipe from the pressure regulator. Plug the
exposed ends of the hoses and connections,
to prevent fuel spillage and the ingress of dirt.
Position the hoses out of the way.
10 Press the clamp ring inwards, and
simultaneously pull free the brake servo hose from the inlet manifold. Position it out of the
way.
11
On CFi and EFi models, detach the
vacuum hose from the MAP sensor, and the
hose between the carbon canister and the fuel
injection unit (see illustration) .
12 Note their connections and routings, and
detach the following wiring connections,
according to model (see illustrations):
a) Coolant temperature sender unit.
b) Oil pressure switch.
c) E-DIS ignition coil unit. or distributor.
d) Coolant temperature sensor.
e) Cooling fan thermostatic switch.
f) Carburettor.
g) Earth lead (radio).
h) Reversing light switch (from transmission).
i) Crankshaft position sensor.
j) Earth leads from the transmission and engine.
13 Disconnect the wiring at the following
additional items specific to fuel injection
models only.
a) Inlet air temperature sensor.
b) Vehicle speed sensor.
c) Throttle plate control motor (CFi models).
d) Throttle position sensor.
e) Injector harness connector.
f) Idle speed control valve (EFi and SEFi models).
14 Unscrew the retaining bolt and detach the
bracket locating the wiring and coolant hoses
above the transmission. 15
Disconnect the speedometer drive cable
from the transmission.
16 On manual transmission models,
disconnect the clutch cable from the release
lever at the transmission (see Chapter 6 for
details). Position the cable out of the way.
17 On vehicles fitted with the anti-lock
braking system, refer to Chapter 9 and release
the left-hand modulator from its mounting
bracket, without disconnecting the rigid brake
pipes or return hose. Tie the modulator
securely to the bulkhead.
18 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Allow
sufficient clearance under the vehicle to
withdraw the engine and transmission units
from under the front end.
19 On XR2i models, refer to Chapter 10 and
remove the front suspension crossmember.
20 Where applicable on catalytic converter-
equipped vehicles, release the multi-plug from
the bracket and disconnect the wiring
connector from the oxygen sensor in the
exhaust downpipe.
21 Undo the three retaining bolts, detach the
exhaust downpipe from the manifold, and
collect the gasket from the flange joint. Now
disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the
rest of the system, and remove it from the
vehicle.
22 Where fitted, undo the four retaining nuts
and two bolts securing the front part of the
exhaust heat shield to the floor, then remove
the heat shield.
23 Refer to Chapter 5A and remove the
alternator and starter motor. On models with
power steering, refer to Chapter 10 and
remove the power steering pump.
Manual transmission models
24 On 4-speed models, select 2nd gear; on
5-speed models, select 4th gear, to assist in
correct adjustment of the gearchange during
reassembly. If it is likely that the gear lever will
be moved from this position before refitting,
mark the relative position of the transmission
shift rod and the selector shaft before
separating them. Undo the clamp bolt, and
then pull free and detach the shift rod from the
selector shaft (see illustration) .
Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2D•9
4.12b . . . the oil pressure switch . . .4.12a Disconnect the wiring at the
temperature gauge sender unit . . .4.11 Vacuum hose to MAP sensor (A) and brake servo (B)
4.24 Manual transmission shift rod clamp
bolt (A), stabiliser-to-transmission bolt (B)
and washer (C)4.12c . . . and the crankshaft position sensor
2D
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Whenever you disconnect
any vacuum lines, coolant or
emissions hoses, wiring
connectors and fuel lines,
always label them clearly, so that they
can be correctly reassembled. Masking
tape and/or a touch-up paint applicator
work well for marking items. Take
instant photos, or sketch the locations
of components and brackets.
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