battery FORD GRANADA 1985 Service Owner's Guide

4Remove the auxiliary drivebelts.
5Remove the fan and viscous clutch if fitted).
6Jam the crankshaft, either by engaging 5th
gear and applying the handbrake, or by
removing the starter motor and having an
assistant jam a screwdriver in the starter ring
gear teeth. Unbolt the crankshaft pulley. When
the pulley is secured to a vibration damper,
also remove the damper central bolt.
7Remove the pulley or damper, using a puller
if necessary.
8Disconnect the coolant hoses from the front
of the engine, including the water pump
bypass hose.
9Disconnect the heater connecting pipe from
the timing cover and unbolt the two clips
which secure the pipe to the cover of the
cylinder block (see illustration).
10If not already done, remove the starter motor.11Remove the sump.
12Remove the nine securing bolts and
remove the timing cover complete with water
pump and thermostat.
13Turn the crankshaft to bring the marks on
the timing gears into alignment as shown (see
illustration). Note that there are two marks on
the crankshaft gear - do not get them
confused.
14Remove the bolt which secures the
camshaft gear. It should now be possible to
remove the camshaft gear by hand.
15Draw off the crankshaft gear using a puller.
Recover the Woodruff keys if they are loose.
16Clean the old gasket off the timing cover
and the cylinder block. Remove the oil seal
from the timing cover.2.4 & 2.9 litre engines
17Using the crankshaft damper centre bolt,
turn the engine until No 1 piston is at its firing
point (12°BTDC). This can be verified by
removing the distributor cap and checking that
the rotor arm is aligned with the No 1 HT lead
contact.
18Disconnect the battery negative terminal.
19Unclip the air cleaner cover and remove it
complete with air flow sensors and air hoses.
Remove the oil filler cap.
20Drain the cooling system, disconnect the
radiator upper hose from the thermostat housing.
21Disconnect the hose which runs between
the water pump and the expansion tank.
22Remove the radiator upper shroud, then
the radiator (see illustrations).
23Remove the fan from the water pump hub
noting that it has a left-hand thread.
24Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
timing cover/water pump hose stubs.
25Remove the alternator and power steering
pump drivebelts (as applicable)
26Unscrew the four bolts and remove the
crankshaft pulley.
27Lock the crankshaft by jamming the starter
ring gear teeth, and unscrew the vibration
damper centre bolt. Withdraw the damper
from the front of the crankshaft. A puller will be
required for this, preferably one which has two
screws for the tapped holes provided (see
illustrations).
28Using an engine support bar or hoist, take
the weight of the engine then unscrew the nuts
2C•10V6 engines
10.9 Heater connecting pipe clip bolts
(arrowed)
10.27a Unscrewing the vibration damper
centre bolt
10.22b Removing radiator upper shroud10.22c Manoeuvre the radiator out from
under the vehicle
10.27b Using a puller to withdraw the
vibration damper10.28a Using an engine support bar to
support the engine
10.13 Camshaft and crankshaft gear marks
in alignment (engine inverted)
Disregard the other mark on the crankshaft gear10.22a Radiator upper shroud plastic clip
and centre pin
procarmanuals.com

3Recover the oil pump driveshaft, noting
which way round it is fitted.
4Recover the oil pump-to-block gasket.
2.4 & 2.9 litre engines
5Remove the sump.
6Unbolt the oil pump/inlet pipe assembly and
remove it then extract the driveshaft, which is
splined into the distributor shaft (see illustration).
1Remove the cylinder heads,the sump and
the oil pump.
2Check that the big-end bearing caps and
connecting rods have identification marks. This
is to ensure that the correct caps are fitted to the
correct connecting rods and at reassembly are
fitted in their correct cylinder bores. Note that
the pistons have an arrow (or notch) marked on
the crown to indicate the forward facing side.
3Remove the big-end nuts and place to one
side in the order in which they are removed.
4Pull off the big-end caps, taking care to
keep them in the right order and the correct
way round. Also ensure that the shell bearings
are kept with their respective connecting rods
unless they are being renewed.5To remove the shell bearings, press the
bearing on the side opposite the groove in
both the connecting rod and the cap, and the
bearing will slide out.
6Withdraw the pistons and connecting rods
upwards out of the cylinder bores.
1Remove the cylinder heads and pushrods.
2Remove the tappets from their bores, using
a pencil magnet or by inserting a piece of bent
brass wire through the lubrication holes (see
illustration).
3Remove the timing cover and the camshaft
gear.
4Remove the two bolts which secure the
camshaft thrust plate. Withdraw the camshaft,
thrust plate and spacer ring.
5The intermediate plate may now be
removed after removing the retaining bolts.
Note the oil seals on the timing cover locating
dowels, which must also be removed.
1The engine must be removed from the
vehicle for this task.
2Remove the flywheel/driveplate, timing
cover and crankshaft gear, and the pistons
and connecting rods, as described in the
preceding Sections. (If no work is to be done
on the pistons, they need not actually be
pushed out of their bores.)
3Make sure that the main bearing caps carry
identification marks, then remove the bolts
and lift off the caps. Tap the caps with a soft-
faced mallet if necessary to free them.
4Note that the rear main bearing cap also
retains the crankshaft rear oil seal, and that the
shells for No 3 main bearing have thrust
flanges to control crankshaft endfloat.
5Lift out the crankshaft. Do not drop it, it is
heavy.
6Recover the upper half main bearing shells
from their seats in the crankcase, again
keeping them in order if they are to be re-
used.
7Remove the old oil seal from the rear of the
crankshaft.
Refer to Part A, Section 23 of this Chapter.1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the crankshaft pulley (and damper,
when fitted).
3Extract the old oil seal by levering it out with
a hooked tool.
4Clean out the seal seat in the timing cover.
Lubricate the new seal and fit it, lips inwards. Seat
the seal with a piece of tube or a large socket. (If
available, Ford tool 21-063 and a non-damper
type pulley may be used to seat the seal.)
5Lubricate the sealing surface of the pulley or
damper and refit it.
6The remainder of refitting is a reversal of the
removal procedure. Check the engine oil level
on completion.
Refer to Part A, Section 18 of this Chapter.
Refer to Part A, Section 25 of this Chapter.
New cylinder head bolts are not required if
they are of the hexagon head type. Torx type
bolts must be renewed. The two types of
cylinder head bolt must not be mixed on the
same engine.
1Tap out the roll pin from one end of the
rocker shaft and remove the spring washer
(see illustration).
2Slide the rocker arms, rocker supports and
springs off the rocker shaft. Keep them in the
correct order so that they can be reassembled
in the same position (see illustration).
20Rocker shaft - dismantling,
examination and reassembly
19Examination and renovation -
general information
18Crankshaft rear oil seal -
renewal
17Crankshaft front oil seal -
renewal
16Engine mountings - renewal
15Crankshaft and main
bearings - removal
14Camshaft and intermediate
plate - removal
13Pistons and connecting rods
- removal
2C•12V6 engines
12.6 Removing the oil pump and driveshaft
20.1 Rocker shaft roll pin (arrowed)14.2 Using a piece of wire to remove the
tappets
If the big-end caps are
difficult to remove they can
be tapped lightly with a soft
faced hammer.
Keep the bearing shells with
their caps if they are to be re-
used.
If a rocker support sticks it
can be removed by tapping it
with a soft-faced hammer.
procarmanuals.com

29Fit the sump and the retaining nuts and
bolts. Tighten them progressively in two stages.
30Oil the lip of the timing cover oil seal and
the contact surface of the crankshaft damper.
31Fit the damper to the crankshaft, being
careful not to dislodge the Woodruff key. Draw
the damper into position using the retaining
bolt and washer.
32Remove the bolt and apply sealant to the
faces of the washer. Refit the bolt and washer
then jam the starter gear ring teeth and tighten
the bolt to the specified torque.
33Refit the crankshaft pulley and tighten the
retaining bolts to the specified torque.
34Refit the crossmember side brackets and
brake pipes.
35Reconnect the engine mountings and
remove the engine hoist or axle stands (see
“Jacking”).36Connect the steering shaft coupling with
the steering wheel and front roadwheels in the
straight-ahead position. Fit the pinch-bolt and
tighten it to the specified torque.
37Fit the starter motor and connect the leads.
38Bolt the coolant distributor pipe to the
timing cover.
39Refit the alternator and power steering
pump drivebelts and tension them (see
illustrations).
40Fit the fan and radiator, connect all coolant
hoses, and fit the radiator upper shroud.
41Fit the air cleaner cover with attachments.
42Fill the engine with oil and coolant and
connect the battery.
2.8 litre engine
1Clean the mating faces of the crankcase
and sump. Ensure that the grooves in the seal
carriers are clean.
2Fit the rubber seals in the grooves.
3Apply sealing compound on the crankcase
and slide the tabs of the gasket under the cut-
outs in the rubber seals (see illustration).
4Ensure that the gasket hole lines up with the
holes in the gasket crankcase and fit the
sump. Take care not to dislodge the gasket.
5Fit the 24 securing bolts. Tighten them in
the sequence shown to the Stage 1 specified
torque starting at point A (see illustration),then to the Stage 2 torque starting at point B.
6Fit the sump drain plug, using a new
washer, and tighten it to the specified torque.
7If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
steps taken to gain access.
2.4 & 2.9 litre engines
8Refer to paragraphs 28 to 29, Section 36.
2.8 litre engine
1Lubricate the valve tappets with clean
engine oil and insert them in the cylinder
block. Ensure that they are fitted in their
original locations (see illustration).
2Ensure that the mating faces of the cylinder
block and the cylinder heads are clean.
3Position the new cylinder head gaskets over
the guide bushes on the cylinder block. Check
that they are correctly located. The right and
left-hand gaskets are different. The gaskets
are marked FRONT TOP (see illustration).
4Carefully lower the cylinder heads onto the
cylinder block. Oil the threads and contact
faces of the cylinder head bolts and insert
them into their holes.
5Tighten the cylinder head bolts, in the
correct order(see illustration),to the Stage 1
specified torque. Repeat in the same order for
Stages 2 and 3. Final tightening, when
required, is done after warm-up.
38Cylinder heads - refitting
37Sump - refitting
V6 engines 2C•19
2C
36.39a Alternator drivebelt tensioner strap
bolt36.39b Power steering pump drivebelt
tensioner bolt37.3 Slide the sump gasket tab into the seal
cut-out
38.1 Fitting a tappet in the block
37.5 Sump bolt tightening sequence
For A and B see text
38.3 Cylinder head gasket markings38.5 Cylinder head bolt tightening
sequence
procarmanuals.com

6Lubricate the pushrods with engine oil and
insert them in the cylinder block.
7Place the oil splash shields in position on
the cylinder heads and fit the rocker shaft
assemblies. Guide the rocker arm adjusting
screws into the pushrod sockets (see
illustrations).
8Tighten the rocker shaft securing bolts
progressively to the specified torque.
9Refit the inlet manifold, using a new gasket.
Do not refit the rocker covers yet.
10Adjust the valve clearances (Section 39).
11Refit the spark plugs.
12Refit the rocker covers, using new
gaskets. The adhesive side of the gaskets
should face the rocker cover.
13If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
preliminary steps.2.4 & 2.9 litre engines
14Refitting the cylinder heads to these
engines is essentially a reversal of the removal
procedure but also refer to information given
for the 2.8 litre engine whilstnoting the
following points.
15Always use new Torx type cylinder head
bolts. Oil them and allow them to drain. When
fitted the word OBEN should be visible on the
new gaskets.
16Tighten the bolts in the specified
sequence (as for the 2.8 litre engine) to the
correct torque. The final stage in the tightening
procedure is by the angular method. Use a
disc similar to the one shown or make a paint
mark at the same point on each bolt head to
ensure that each bolt is turned through exactly
the same number of degrees (see
illustration).17As a result of the bolt tightening torque
used and the elasticity of the bolts, no further
tightening is required after the initial running-in
period.
18Apply jointing compound to the areas
where the inlet manifold and cylinder heads
meet and locate a new gasket in position.
Make sure that it is the correct way around.
Tighten the inlet manifold bolts to the specified
torque and in the sequence shown (see
illustrations).
19Check that No 1 piston is still at the firing
point (12°BTDC) and fit the distributor.
20Adjust the valve clearances.
21Fit new rocker cover gaskets, peeling off
the self-adhesive shield before sticking the
gaskets to the covers. Note the aluminium
spacers in the gaskets to prevent
overtightening (see illustration).
22Use a new gasket at the plenum chamber
and tighten the fixing bolts to the specified
torque (see illustration).
23Refit the alternator and power steering
pump (where removed) and tension the
drivebelts.
24Reconnect the fuel lines and secure them
in position with new clips. Reconnect all
coolant and vacuum hoses and electrical
connectors. Refill the engine with coolant and
reconnect the battery.
25Switch on the ignition and bleed the fuel
system by operating the vent valve on the fuel rail.
26Run the engine up to normal operating
temperature and then check the ignition
timing.
2C•20V6 engines
38.7a Fitting the pushrods and oil splash
shields
38.18a Inlet manifold gasket correctly
located38.18b Fitting inlet manifold complete with
fuel rail and injectors
38.22 Lowering the plenum chamber into
position38.18c Inlet manifold tightening sequence
Arrow indicates the front of the engine38.21 Peeling off rocker cover gasket
protective shield
38.7b Fitting an assembled rocker shaft38.16 Tightening a cylinder head bolt using
an angular tightening disc
procarmanuals.com

27The inlet manifold bolts should be
retightened to the specified torque in the correct
sequence. This will mean disconnecting the air
hoses from the throttle valve housing, the
vacuum hose from the left-hand rocker cover,
and the wiring connector from the idle speed
control valve and throttle valve potentiometer.
Remove the plenum chamber, place it to one
side, then release the fuel rail bolts but do not
disconnect the fuel pipes. It may also be
necessary to remove the distributor again to
gain access to one of the bolts.
See Chapter 1, Section 23.
1Refer to Section 7 and refit the items listed.
2If the oil cooler and its threaded bush were
removed, refit them as follows (see
illustration).
3Screw the new bush into the cylinder block.
Apply Omnifit Activator “Rapid” (to Ford
specification SSM-99B-9000-AA) to the
exposed threads of the bush and to the inside
of the threaded sleeve.
4Apply one drop of Omnifit Sealant “300
Rapid” (to Ford specification SSM-4G-9003-
AA) to the leading threads of the bush.Do not
use more than one drop, otherwise sealant
may get into the lubrication circuit.
5Fit the cooler, using a new gasket, and
secure with the threaded bush. Make sure that
the coolant pipes are positioned at the correct
angle (see illustration),then tighten the
threaded sleeve to the specified torque.
6Fit a new oil filter element, oiling its sealing
ring prior to installation. Tighten the filter
approximately three-quarters of a turn beyond
the point where the seal contacts the cooler
face. Do not use any tool to tighten the filter.
Refer to Part A, Section 49, paragraphs 1 to
9 of this Chapter. Before starting the engine,
refer to the following Section.1Refer to Part A, Section 51 of this Chapter.
2When conventional (hexagon-headed)
cylinder head bolts are fitted, they must be re-
tightened after the engine has warmed up.
Proceed as follows.
3Stop the engine and remove the rocker covers.
4Working in the sequence used for
tightening, slacken one cylinder head bolt a
quarter turn, then re-tighten it to the Stage 4
specified torque. Repeat in sequence for all
the cylinder head bolts.
5Tighten the inlet manifold bolts.
6Check the valve clearances.
7Refit the rocker covers and other disturbed
components.
1When engine performance is down, or if
misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to
the ignition or fuel system, a compression test
can provide diagnostic clues. If the test is
performed regularly it can give warning of
trouble before any other symptoms become
apparent.
2The engine must be at operating
temperature, the battery must be fully charged
and the spark plugs must be removed. The
services of an assistant will also be required.3Disable the ignition system by dismantling
the coil LT feed. Fit the compression tester to
No 1 spark plug hole. (The type of tester which
screws into the spark plug hole is to be
preferred.)
4Have the assistant hold the throttle wide
open and crank the engine on the starter.
Record the highest reading obtained on the
compression tester.
5Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders,
recording the pressure developed in each.
6Desired pressures are given in the
Specifications. If the pressure in any cylinder
is low, introduce a teaspoonful of clean engine
oil into the spark plug hole and repeat the test.
7If the addition of oil temporarily improves
the compression pressure, this indicates that
bore or piston wear was responsible for the
pressure loss. No improvement suggests that
leaking or burnt valves, or a blown head
gasket, may be to blame.
8A low reading from two adjacent cylinders is
almost certainly due to the head gasket
between them having blown.
9On completion of the test, refit the spark
plugs and reconnect the coil LT feed.
43Compression test -
description and interpretation
42Initial start-up after overhaul
or major repair
41Engine - refitting
40Ancillary components - refitting
39Valve clearances - checking
and adjustment
V6 engines 2C•21
2C
40.2 Oil cooler components
A Threaded bush
B Seal
C CoolerD Sleeve
E Oil filter
40.5 Oil cooler installation angle
A Rear face of cylinder block
procarmanuals.com

See Chapter 1, Section 46.
See Chapter 1, Section 46.
See Chapter 1, Section 46.
1Drain the radiator. There is no need to drain
the cylinder block. On DOHC engines the
electric cooling fan assembly must be removed
to gain the clearance to remove the radiator.
2Disconnect the top and bottom hoses from
the radiator by slackening the hose clips and
pulling off the hoses with a twisting motion
(see illustrations). Do not use excessive force
- the radiator side tanks are made of plastic.
3On OHCmodels, disconnect the small hose
running from the expansion tank to the radiator.
4On automatic transmission models, clean
around the transmission fluid cooler unions on
the radiator and disconnect them (seeillustration). Be prepared for fluid spillage;
plug or cap the cooler lines to keep dirt out.
5On models with air conditioning, disconnect
the auxiliary fan thermo-switch. If the thermo-
switch is mounted in the radiator, remove It.
6Remove the upper half of the fan shroud by
removing the two bolts and two clips (see
illustration), and the lower half which is
secured by two bolts.
7Release the two radiator top mounting clips
by pulling out the plastic plugs (see illustration).
8Raise and support the front of the vehicle.
Support the radiator and remove the two
bottom mounting bolts (see illustration).
9Carefully lower the radiator slightly to free
the top mountings, then remove it from under
the vehicle.
10If a new radiator is being fitted, transfer the
fan shrouds and mountings from the old one.
11Refit by reversing the removal operations,
then refill the cooling system.
12On automatic transmission models, check
the transmission fluid level.
1If the radiator has been removed because of
suspected blockage, reverse-flush it.
2Clean dirt and debris from the radiator fins,
using an air jet, or water and a soft brush. Be
careful not to damage the fins, or cut your
fingers. 3A radiator specialist can perform a “flow
test” on the radiator to establish whether an
internal blockage exists.
4A leaking radiator must be referred to a
specialist for permanent repair. Do not attempt
to weld or solder a leaking radiator, as
damage to the plastic parts may result.
5In an emergency, minor leaks from the
radiator can be cured by using a radiator
sealant while the radiator is in situ.
SOHC engines
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Drain the cooling system. As it is not
necessary to completely drain the radiator, the
bottom hose can be disconnected from the
water pump.
3Disconnect the top hose from the
thermostat housing at the front of the cylinder
head (see illustration).
4Unscrew the bolts and remove the housing
and gasket (see illustration).
5Using a screwdriver, prise the retaining clip
from the housing, and extract the thermostat
and sealing ring (see illustrations).
6Clean the thermostat housing and cylinder
head mating surfaces. Obtain a new gasket for
reassembly, and if necessary a new sealing
ring too.
7Refit by reversing the removal operations.
7Thermostat - removal and
refitting
6Radiator - inspection and repair
5Radiator - removal and refitting
4Cooling system - filling
3Cooling system - flushing
2Cooling system - draining
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3•3
3
5.2a Radiator top hose5.2b Radiator bottom hose (A)
Also shown are automatic transmission fluid
cooler lower union (B) and hose to expansion
tank (C)5.4 Transmission fluid cooler upper union
5.6 Fan shroud clip5.7 Pull out the plug to release the radiator
top mounting5.8 One of the radiator bottom mounting
bolts (arrowed)
procarmanuals.com

Make sure that the thermostat is the right way
round - the wax capsule fits into the cylinder
head, with the direction of flow arrow facing
forwards (see illustration).
8Refill the cooling system.
DOHC engines
9Disconnect the battery negative lead.
10Drain the cooling system.
11On fuel-injection models, for access to the
thermostat housing, loosen the clips and
remove the air inlet tube which connects the
plenum chamber to the inlet manifold.
12Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
thermostat housing (see illustrations).
13Disconnect the wiring plug from the
cooling fan switch mounted in the thermostat
housing (see illustration).
14Unscrew the three securing bolts, andwithdraw the thermostat housing (see
illustration).
15Manoeuvre the thermostat away from the
inlet manifold and recover the O-ring. If it is
necessary to prise the thermostat out, take
care not to damage the surface of the housing
in the inlet manifold.
16Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points:
a)Ensure that the O-ring seal is correctly
fitted around the edge of the thermostat.
b)When fitting the thermostat to the inlet
manifold ensure that the relief valve is
located in the 12 o’clock position (see
illustration).
c)Tighten the thermostat housing bolts to
the specified torque.
d)Refill the cooling system.
3•4Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
7.3 Top hose attachment to the thermostat
housing
7.12b . . . from the thermostat housing
7.5b . . . extract the thermostat . . .7.5c . . . and the sealing ring7.7 Thermostat direction of flow arrow
7.12a Disconnecting the coolant hoses . . .
7.13 Disconnect the cooling fan switch
wiring plug . . .7.14 . . . and remove the thermostat
housing
7.4 Removing the thermostat housing7.5a Remove the retaining clip . . .
procarmanuals.com

V6 engines
17The thermostat is removed in the course
of water pump removal.
1A rough test of the thermostat may be made
by suspending it with a piece of string in a
saucepan full of water(see illustration).Bring
the water to the boil. The thermostat most
open by the time the water boils. If not, renew
it.
2If a thermometer is available, the precise
opening temperature of the thermostat may be
determined and compared with that given in
the Specifications.
3A thermostat which fails to close as the
water cools must also be renewed.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the upper half of the fan shroud
(two bolts, four clips).
3Undo the nut which secures the fan clutch
to the water pump.This nut has a left-hand
thread, ie it is undone in a clockwise direction.
A thin cranked spanner, 32 mm (OHC) or 36
mm (V6) AF is needed(see illustration);
alternatively, if two of the pulley bolts are
removed, a normal thickness or even anadjustable spanner can be used (see
illustrations). Tap the spanner with a mallet if
need be to release the nut.
4The fan can now be unbolted from the
viscous clutch if required. Do not overtighten
the bolts when refitting.
5Refit by reversing the removal operations.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2To provide additional clearance when
removing the cooling fan shroud assembly
(which is removed from below the vehicle),
apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of
the vehicle and support it securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking”).
3Disconnect the wiring plug(s) from the
motor(s), and where applicable, unclip the
wiring from the fan shroud.
4Unclip the expansion tank hose from the fan
shroud.
5Unscrew the two nuts securing the fan shroud
to the top of the radiator, then tilt the top of theshroud away from the radiator, and lift the
shroud to release the lower securing clips.
Withdraw the assembly from below the vehicle.
6To remove the fan blades, prise the
securing clip from the end of the motor shaft.
7The motor can be separated from the fan
shroud by unscrewing the three securing nuts
and bolts.
8Note that two cooling fans may be fitted,
depending on model. Both fans are secured to
the shroud in the same manner.
9Refitting is a reversal of removal, but when
fitting the fan blades, ensure that the drive dog
on the motor shaft engages with the slot in the
rear of the fan blades.
SOHC engines
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Drain the cooling system.
3Remove the fan and viscous coupling.
4If not already done, remove the pump
drivebelt(s), then unbolt and remove the water
pump pulley (see illustration).
5Disconnect the radiator bottom hose and
the heater return hose from the pump.
6Remove the timing belt cover, which is
secured by three bolts.
11Water pump - removal and
refitting
10Electric cooling fan(s) -
removal and refitting
9Viscous-coupled fan - removal
and refitting
8Thermostat - testing
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3•5
3
7.16 Thermostat relief valve (arrowed)
positioned in the 12 o’clock position8.1 Checking the thermostat opening
temperature9.3a Dimensions of spanner for undoing
fan clutch nut. Spanner thickness must not
exceed 5 mm (0.2 in)
9.3b Undoing the viscous fan clutch nut9.3c Removing the fan and clutch11.4 Undoing a water pump pulley bolt
X = 10 mm (0.4 in)
Y = 10 mm (0.4 in)Z = 50 mm (2.0 in)
If problems are experienced
with the pulley turning as the
nut is undone, remove the
drivebelt and clamp an old
drivebelt round the pulley to restrain it,
using self-locking pliers.
procarmanuals.com

7Remove the three securing bolts and
withdraw the water pump (see illustrations).
8A leaking, noisy or otherwise defective
pump must be renewed.
9Clean the mating faces and obtain a new
gasket for reassembly (see illustration).
10Refit by reversing the removal operation,
tightening all fastenings to the correct torque
(where specified).
11Refill the cooling system.
DOHC engines
12Disconnect the battery negative lead.
13On fuel-injection models, for access to the
water pump, remove the air inlet hose, plenum
chamber, and air cleaner lid as an assembly.
14Drain the cooling system.
15Remove the water pump/alternator
drivebelt.16If the pump pulley is to be removed, it is
easiest to do this with the pump in position as
follows. Prevent the pulley from rotating using
a strap wrench (which can be improvised
using an old drivebelt and a large socket and
wrench), and unscrew the four pulley securing
bolts. Withdraw the pulley.
17Position a suitable container beneath the
water pump to catch the coolant which will be
released as the pump is removed, then
unscrew the five securing bolts and withdraw
the pump from the housing in the cylinder
block (see illustration). Recover the O-ring
seal and discard it; a new one must be used
on refitting.
18Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points:
a)Ensure that the mating faces of the water
pump and cylinder block are clean and fit
a new O-ring to the pump (see
illustration).
b)Tighten the water pump bolts and where
applicable the pump pulley bolts to the
specified torque.
c)On completion refill the cooling system.
19Note that on models up to May 1990, the
coolant hoses were connected to the water
pump housing as shown(see illustration).
20On models from May 1990, the heater
hose (A) and the expansion tank hose (B)
connections were swapped over.21If the hoses are disconnected on earlier
models, such as during engine removal, they
should be reconnected as on later models, ie
connect the heater hose to connection B and
connect the expansion tank hose to connection
A. This will reduce the possibility of noises from
the heater matrix due to air in the system.
V6 engines
22Disconnect the battery negative lead.
23Drain the cooling system.
24Remove the fan and viscous coupling.
25If not already done, remove the pump
drivebelt(s), then unbolt and remove the water
pump pulley.
26Disconnect the radiator bottom hose and the
heater return hose from the thermostat housing.
27Remove the three bolts which secure the
thermostat housing to the water pump.
Remove the housing and the thermostat.
28Remove the twelve securing bolts and
withdraw the water pump. Note that on some
models it will be necessary to remove the
crankshaft pulley and damper to gain access
to the lower water pump bolts (see
illustration).
29A leaking, noisy or otherwise defective
pump must be renewed.
30Clean the mating faces and obtain a new
gasket for reassembly. Use a new thermostat
housing gasket also.
31Refit by reversing the removal operation,
tightening all fastenings to the correct torque
(where specified).
32Refill the cooling system.
3•6Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
11.7a This water pump bolt also secures
the alternator strap
11.18 On refitting, renew the water pump
O-ring (arrowed)
11.17 Withdrawing the water pump from
the cylinder block (engine removed)
11.19 Water pump housing hose
connections
A Heater hose connection - up to May 1990
B Expansion tank hose connection - up to
May 1990
C Bottom radiator hose
11.28 Removing the water pump
11.7b Water pump removed11.9 Fitting a new gasket to the water
pump
procarmanuals.com

See Chapter 1, Section 21.
1On 2.0 litre DOHC engines only, remove the
water pump/alternator drivebelt as described
in the previous Section.
2Loosen the alternator lower mounting
through-bolt, then remove the alternator upper
mounting bolt, and swing the alternator away
from the engine.
3Unscrew the central securing bolt, and
withdraw the drivebelt tensioner assembly.
4Commence refitting by positioning the
tensioner on the cylinder block, ensuring that
the lug on the rear of the tensioner bracket
engages with the corresponding hole in the
cylinder block (see illustration). Tighten the
securing bolt.
5Swing the alternator into position to align
the upper mounting bolt hole with the
corresponding hole in the drivebelt tensioner
assembly, then refit and tighten the upper
mounting bolt, then the lower throughbolt.
6Check the full length of the drivebelt for cracks
and deterioration and renew if necessary.
7Fit the drivebelt using a reversal of the
removal procedure, and release the tensioner
to tension the drivebelt.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Depressurize the cooling system by
unscrewing the expansion tank cap. Take
precautions against scalding if the system
is hot.
3Slacken the hose clips on all the hoses
which are connected to the tank. Pull off and
plug those hoses which are above the
waterline.4Remove the two screws which secure the
tank. Tilt the tank so that the coolant lies away
from the outlets, then disconnect and plug the
remaining hose.
5Disconnect the coolant level sensor, when
fitted, and remove the tank.
6Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Top-up the cooling system on completion.
1The temperature gauge sender is located
towards the front of the engine. On SOHC
models it is just below the inlet manifold (see
illustration); on V6 models it is just below the
top hose connection on the front of the left-
hand cylinder head, and on DOHC models it is
located at the front of the inlet manifold (see
illustration).
2Slacken the expansion tank cap to release
pressure in the cooling system, taking
precautions against scalding if the system
is hot.Tighten the cap again to minimise
coolant loss.
3Disconnect the wiring from the sender unit.
Unscrew and remove it, being prepared for
some coolant spillage.
4Smear sealant on the sender unit threads
before refitting, then insert and tighten it.
Reconnect the wiring.
5Top-up the cooling system if necessary,
then run the engine and check the operation of
the temperature gauge.The cooling fan switch is located in the end
of the thermostat housing.
Removal and refitting of the switch is as
described for the temperature gauge sender in
the previous Section.
Models before April 1992
Front
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the instrument cluster (Chapter 13).
3Remove the facia top (Chapter 12).
4Unclip the two control cables from the
control levers (see illustration).
5On air conditioned models, disconnect the
hoses from the vacuum switch.
6Remove the four screws which secure the
heater control assembly. Withdraw the
assembly from the facia.
7When refitting, secure the control assembly
with the four screws. Reconnect the vacuum
switch (when applicable) and the control
cables. Adjust the control cables if necessary
by altering the positions of the cable clips.
8When satisfied with the operation of the
cables, refit the other disturbed components.
Rear
9Remove the centre console (Chapter 12).
10Unclip the control cables and remove the
control unit.
11Refit in the reverse order to removal.
Models from April 1992
12Undo the two instrument panel surround
retaining screws, then carefully release the
retaining clips and remove the surround from
the facia.
13Pull off the three knobs from the heater
and ventilation controls to gain access to the
two hidden central vent panel retaining
screws. Slacken and remove the four panel
retaining screws and partially withdraw the
17Heater controls - removal and
refitting
16Cooling fan switch - removal
and refitting
15Temperature gauge sender -
removal and refitting
14Expansion tank - removal and
refitting
13Water pump/alternator
drivebelt tensioner - removal
and refitting
12Water pump/alternator
drivebelt(s) - inspection,
renewal and adjustment
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3•7
3
13.4 On refitting, ensure the drivebelt
tensioner lug (A) engages with hole in the
mounting bracket (B)15.1a Temperature gauge sender (manifold
removed)15.1b Temperature gauge sender unit
location (arrowed)
17.4 Heater control cable clip (arrowed)
viewed through windscreen
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