battery FORD GRANADA 1985 Service Manual PDF

Models covered in this Manual have disc
brakes fitted all round. The footbrake operates
hydraulically on all four wheels, and the
handbrake operates mechanically on the rear
wheels. Both footbrake and handbrake are
self-adjusting in use.
Ford’s anti-lock braking system (ABS) is
fitted to all models. The system monitors the
rotational speed of each roadwheel. When a
wheel begins to lock under heavy braking, the
ABS reduces the hydraulic pressure to that
wheel, so preventing it from locking. When this
happens a pulsating effect will be noticed at
the brake pedal. On some road surfaces the
tyres may squeal when braking hard even
though the wheels are not locked.
The main components of the system are the
hydraulic unit, the calipers, pads and discs,
the wheel sensors and the “brain” or control
module. The hydraulic unit contains the
elements of a traditional master cylinder, plus
an electric motor and pump, a pressure
accumulator and control valves. The pump is
the source of pressure for the system and
does away with the need for a vacuum servo.
The hydraulic circuit is split front and rear,
as is normal practice with rear-wheel drive
vehicles. In the event that the hydraulic pump
fails, unassisted braking effort is still available
on the front calipers only.
Warning lights inform the driver of low brake
fluid level, ABS failure and (on some models)
brake pad wear. The low fluid level light
doubles as a “handbrake on” light; if it
illuminates at the same time as the ABS
warning light, it warns of low hydraulic
pressure.
ABS cannot overturn the laws of physics:
stopping distances will inevitably be greater on
loose or slippery surfaces. However, the system
should allow even inexperienced drivers to
retain directional control under panic braking.
From August 1986 the following
modifications were made to the braking
system.
a)The relays differ from earlier versions.b)The hydraulic pump is constructed of iron
rather than alloy.
c)A new pressure warning switch is used.
d)The earlier high pressure rubber hose is
replaced by a steel pipe.
To overcome the problem of excessive rear
brake pad wear, Ford introduced a differential
valve which is screwed into the ABS valve
block.The valve limits the pressure applied to
the rear brake calipers and so reduces brake
pad wear. From 1988 onwards, the valve has
been fitted during production. The differential
valve can also be fitted to earlier models. Refer
to your Ford dealer for further information.
From April 1992 onwards, the models
covered in this Manual were equipped with a
new Teves MK IV anti-lock braking system
instead of the Teves MK II system fitted to the
earlier models.
The Teves MK IV system differs from the
earlier MK II system in the following ways.
a)The source of hydraulic pressure for the
system is a conventional master cylinder
and vacuum servo assembly.
b)A valve block and pump assembly is used
instead of the hydraulic control unit. The
block contains the inlet and outlet
solenoid valves that control the hydraulic
system. There are three pairs of valves,
one for each brake circuit (paragraph c).
c)The hydraulic braking system consists of
three separate circuits; one for each front
brake (which are totally independent of
each other), and a joint circuit which
operates both rear brakes.
d)A G (gravity) switch is incorporated in the
system. This is an inertia type switch and
informs the control module when the
vehicle is decelerating rapidly.
e)A Pedal Travel Sensor (PTS) is fitted to the
vacuum servo unit. The PTS informs the
control module of the position of the brake
pedal when the anti-lock sequence starts
and ensures that a constant pedal height
is maintained during the sequence.
The MK IV system operates as follows.
During normal operation the system
functions in the same way as a non-ABS
system would. During this time the three inlet
valves in the valve block are open and theoutlet valves are closed, allowing full hydraulic
pressure present in the master cylinder to act
on the main braking circuit. If the control
module receives a signal from one of the
wheel sensors and senses that a wheel is
about to lock, it closes the relevant inlet valve
in the valve block which then isolates the
brake caliper on the wheel which is about to
lock from the master cylinder, effectively
sealing in the hydraulic pressure. If the speed
of rotation of the wheel continues to decrease
at an abnormal rate, the control module will
then open the relevant outlet valve in the valve
block; this allows the fluid from the relevant
hydraulic circuit to return to the master
cylinder reservoir, releasing pressure on the
brake caliper so that the brake is released. The
pump in the valve block also operates to assist
in the quick release of pressure. Once the
speed of rotation of the wheel returns to an
acceptable rate the pump stops, the outlet
valve closes and the inlet valve is opened,
allowing the hydraulic master cylinder
pressure to return to the caliper which then
reapplies the brake. This cycle can be carried
many times a second. The solenoid valves
connected to the front calipers operate
independently, but the valve connected to the
rear calipers operates both calipers
simultaneously.
The operation of the ABS system is entirely
dependent on electrical signals. To prevent
the system responding to any inaccurate
signals, a built-in safety circuit monitors all
signals received by the control module. If an
inaccurate signal or low battery voltage is
detected, the ABS system is automatically
shut down and the warning lamp on the
instrument cluster is illuminated to inform the
driver that the ABS system is not operational.
Whilst in this state the system functions in the
same way as a non-ABS system would. If a
fault does develop in the ABS system, the car
must be taken to a Ford dealer for fault
diagnosis and repair. The system is equipped
with a diagnostic plug into which a special
diagnostic (STAR) tester can be plugged. This
allows faults to be easily traced.
1General information
10•2Braking system
Torque wrench settingsNmlbf ft
Front caliper:
To stub axle carrier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51 to 6138 to 45
Slide bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 to 2515 to 18
Rear caliper:
Bracket to carrier plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51 to 6138 to 45
Slide bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31 to 3523 to 26
Hydraulic unit to bulkhead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 to 5130 to 38
Accumulator to pump body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35 to 4526 to 33
Pump mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 to 95 to 7
High pressure hose banjo bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 to 2412 to 18
Reservoir mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 to 63 to 4
Wheel sensor fixing bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 to 116 to 8
Vacuum servo unit retaining nuts (Teves MK IV) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35 to 4526 to 33
Master cylinder retaining nuts (Teves MK IV) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 to 2515 to 18
Valve block and pump assembly mounting nuts (Teves MK IV) . . . . . . .21 to 2815 to 21
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17Refit the washer, spring and spring cover.
Compress the spring and refit the circlip, then
release the spring compressor.
18Lubricate the caliper bore with clean
hydraulic fluid and fit a new piston seal.
19Reassemble the piston components.
Lubricate the contact face of the adjuster nut
with a little brake grease, then fit the adjuster
nut (with new seal), thrust bearing,
thrustwasher, wave washer and the second
thrustwasher. Secure with the circlip.
20Fit a new dust boot. The manufacturers
recommend that it be fitted to the caliper
groove and the piston fitted afterwards; it is
also possible to fit the boot to the piston first
and engage it in the caliper groove afterwards.
Either way it is a fiddly business.
21Refit the piston and screw it into the
caliper, then fit whichever lip of the dust boot
was left free (see illustration).22Renew the slide pin gaiters and apply a
little anti-seize compound to the slide pins
when reassembling the caliper to the bracket.
The splash shield is retained by the rear hub
bolts. Proceed as described in Chapter 11 for
removal and refitting of the rear hub.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Depressurise the hydraulic system by
pumping the brake pedal at least 20 times, or
until it becomes hard.
3Remove the under-dash trim on the driver’s
side.
4Remove the spring clip which secures the
hydraulic unit pushrod to the brake pedal. Also
remove the clip from the brake pedal shaft
(see illustration).
5Withdraw the brake pedal shaft towards the
left of the vehicle - through the clutch pedal,
when applicable - until the brake pedal is free.
6Remove the pedal, noting the fitted
sequence of bushes, spacers and washers.
7Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Check the correct functioning of the stop-light
and (if applicable) cruise control switches
before refitting the trim. See Chapter 13.1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Depressurise the hydraulic system by
pumping the brake pedal at least 20 times, or
until it becomes hard.
3Disconnect the six multi-plugs from the
hydraulic unit. They are all different, so there is
no need to label them. When a plug has a
spring clip retainer, lift the clip before pulling
out the plug. To release the pump plug, pull
back the rubber boot and the plug sleeve (see
illustrations).
4Unbolt the earth strap from the unit (see
illustration).
5Make arrangements to catch spilt hydraulic
15Hydraulic unit - removal and
refitting
14Brake pedal - removal and
refitting
13Rear disc splash shield -
removal and refitting
10•8Braking system
12.21 Dust boot fitted to caliper and piston
15.3d Disconnecting the pressure switch
multi-plug15.3e Disconnecting the pump motor plug15.4 Earth strap (arrowed) bolted to
hydraulic unit
14.4 Pushrod spring clip (A) and brake
pedal shaft clip (B)
15.3a Disconnect the valve block multi-
plug. Lift the clip and pull off the plug15.3b Disconnecting a fluid level sensor
plug15.3c Disconnecting the main valve plug
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fluid. Identify the hydraulic pipes and
disconnect them from the base of the unit.
Hint: Plug or cap the open unions to keep
fluid in and dirt out.
6Remove the under-dash trim on the driver’s
side. Disconnect the spring clip which secures
the hydraulic unit pushrod to the brake pedal.
7Have an assistant support the hydraulic
unit. Remove the four nuts which hold the unit
to the bulkhead (see illustration). Withdraw
the unit from under the bonnet.
8Recover the sealing compound from the
unit and the bulkhead.
9Drain the hydraulic fluid from the reservoir.
Do not actuate the pushrod with the unit
removed.
10Dismantling of the hydraulic unit should be
limited to the operations described in thefollowing Sections. These operations can all
be carried out without removing the unit from
the vehicle if wished.
11Refit by reversing the removal operations,
noting the following points:
a)Do not refill the reservoir until the end of
refitting
b)Use new sealing compound between the
unit and the bulkhead
c)Make sure that the hydraulic pipes are
reconnected to the correct unions
d)Bleed the complete hydraulic system on
completion - see Section 2
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Depressurise the hydraulic system by
pumping the brake pedal at least 20 times, or
until it becomes hard.
3Disconnect the multi-plugs and remove the
reservoir cap.
4Remove the reservoir securing screw, which
is located just above the valve block multi-
plug (see illustration).
5Make arrangements to catch spilt fluid, then
disconnect the low pressure hose from its
connections to the pump. The hose is secured
by a spring clip (see illustrations). Allow the
brake fluid to drain out of the hose.
6Pull the reservoir out of the seals on the
hydraulic unit and remove it (see illustration).7Note the spigot locating bush on the rear
inlet union, which may stay in the hydraulic
unit or may come out with the reservoir (see
illustration).
8Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Use new seals between the hydraulic unit and
the reservoir.
9Bleed the complete hydraulic system on
completion (Section 2). Check for leaks
around the disturbed components.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Depressurise the hydraulic system by
pumping the brake pedal at least 20 times, or
until it becomes hard.
3Wrap a clean rag round the base of the
accumulator to catch any spilt fluid.
4Unscrew the accumulator using a hexagon
key. Remove the accumulator, being prepared
for fluid spillage (see illustration).
5When refitting, fit a new O-ring to the base
of the accumulator. Fit the accumulator and
tighten it.
6Reconnect the battery. Switch on the
ignition and check that the hydraulic unit
pump stops within 60 seconds. If not, there
may be something wrong with the
accumulator.
7Bleed the complete hydraulic system as
described in Section 2.
17Hydraulic unit accumulator -
removal and refitting
16Hydraulic unit fluid reservoir -
removal and refitting
Braking system 10•9
10
15.7 Four nuts (arrowed) which hold the
hydraulic unit to the bulkhead
16.4 Undoing the reservoir securing screw16.5a Extract the spring clip . . .
16.6 Removing the hydraulic fluid reservoir
16.5b . . . and disconnect the hose
16.7 The spigot locating bush fits into this
union17.4 Removing the accumulator
Note O-ring (arrowed)
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1Remove the accumulator (Section 17).
2Disconnect the high pressure hose from the
pump. Be prepared for fluid spillage.
3Disconnect the low pressure hose from the
pump. Allow the fluid to drain out of the
reservoir through the hose.
4Disconnect the multi-plugs from the
pressure switch and the pump motor.
5Remove the pump mounting bolt (see
illustration).
6Pull the pump and motor assembly off the
mounting spigot and remove it.
7Recover the mounting bushes and renew
them if necessary.
8If a new pump is to be fitted, transfer the
pressure switch to it, using a new O-ring.
9Commence refitting by offering the pump to
the spigot, then reconnecting the low pressure
hose.
10Refit and tighten the pump mounting bolt.
11Reconnect the high pressure hose, using
new sealing washers on the banjo union.
12Refit the accumulator, using a new O-ring.
13Reconnect the multi-plugs and the
battery.
14Refill the reservoir, then switch on the
ignition and allow the pump to prime itself. Do
not let the pump run for more than two
minutes - see Section 3. Check for leaks
around the disturbed components.
15Bleed the complete system (Section 2).
Note: To remove the pressure switch from the
hydraulic unit in situ, Ford tool No 12-008, or
equivalent, will be required. The switch may be
removed without special tools after removing
the hydraulic unit complete (Section 16) or the
pump (Section 18).
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Depressurise the hydraulic system by
pumping the brake pedal at least 20 times, or
until it becomes hard.
3Disconnect the multi-plug from the switch,
then unscrew and remove it.4When refitting, use a new O-ring on the
switch. Position the plastic sleeve so that the
hole in the sleeve is facing the pump motor
(see illustration). Tighten the switch.
5Reconnect the multi-plug and the battery.
6Bleed the complete system (Section 2).
1There are two hoses on the hydraulic unit.
The low pressure hose connects the reservoir
to the pump inlet; the high pressure hose
connects the pump outlet to the booster and
valve block.
2To remove either hose, first disconnect the
battery. Depressurise the hydraulic system by
pumping the brake pedal at least 20 times, or
until it becomes hard.
Low pressure hose
3Have ready a container to catch spilt fluid.
Remove the spring clip and pull the hose off
the pump inlet. Allow the contents of the
reservoir to drain out of the hose and into the
container.
4Pull the hose off the reservoir and remove it.
5Refit by connecting the hose to the reservoir
and pump inlet. Secure the hose to the pump
with the spring clip.
6Refill the reservoir, reconnect the battery
and bleed the complete system (Section 2).
Check for leaks.
High pressure hose
7Remove the banjo bolts which secure the
hose. Be prepared for fluid spillage.
8Remove the hose and recover the sealing
washers.
9Refit by reversing the removal operations,
using new sealing washers on both sides of
each union (see illustration).
10Reconnect the battery and bleed the
complete system (Section 2). Check for leaks.
1Periodically inspect the rigid brake pipes for
rust and other damage, and the flexible hoses
for cracks, splits or “ballooning”. Have an
assistant depress the brake pedal (ignition on)
and inspect the hose and pipe unions for
leaks. Renew defective items without delay.
2Before removing any pipe or hose,
depressurise the hydraulic system by
switching off the ignition and pumping the
brake pedal 20 times, or until it becomes hard.
3To remove a flexible hose, first undo the
union nut which secures the rigid pipe to it.
The use of a split ring spanner, sold for this
purpose, is recommended (see illustration).
Be prepared for hydraulic fluid spillage, and
take precautions to keep dirt out.
4Having disconnected the rigid pipe, release
the hose from the bracket by removing the
locknut and washer (see illustration).
21Brake pipes and hoses -
inspection, removal and refitting
20Hydraulic unit hoses -
removal and refitting
19Hydraulic unit pressure
switch - removal and refitting
18Hydraulic unit pump and
motor - removal and refitting
10•10Braking system
18.5 Hydraulic unit pump mounting bolt
21.3 Undoing a rigid pipe union nut
Flexible hose locknut is just above21.4 Removing a flexible hose from its
bracket
19.4 Refitting the pressure switch
Hole (arrowed) in sleeve must face pump motor20.9 Fitting new sealing washers to a banjo
union
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5Unscrew the hose from its union on the
caliper and remove it (see illustration).
6Refit by reversing the removal operations,
then bleed the appropriate part of the
hydraulic system (Section 2). In the case of the
front hoses, check that they are not kinked or
twisted, and that they do not contact other
components when the steering is moved from
lock to lock. Reposition the hose in the
bracket if necessary.
7To remove a rigid pipe, simply undo the
union nuts at the hydraulic unit, hose bracket
or T-piece (see illustration). Free the pipe
from any retaining clips and remove it.
8New pipes can be bought ready-made, with
the unions attached. Some garages and motor
factors will make up pipes to order, using the
old pipe as a pattern. If purchasing proprietary
pipes made of copper alloy or similar material,
follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully
concerning bending, provision of extra clips
etc.
9Fit and secure the new pipe and tighten the
union nuts, bleed the appropriate part of the
hydraulic system (Section 2).
1The handbrake is normally self-adjusting in
use. Adjustment may be required to
compensate for cable stretch over a long
period, and is also necessary after fitting a
new cable.2Chock the front wheels, release the
handbrake and raise and support the rear of
the vehicle.
3Release the adjuster locknut from the
adjuster nut. Back off the adjuster nut,
slackening the cable until both handbrake
levers on the calipers are resting against their
stops (see illustration).
4Paint alignment marks between each
handbrake lever and the caliper body (see
illustration).
5Tighten the adjuster nut until either
handbrake lever just starts to move - as shown
by the alignment marks.
6Apply the handbrake and release it a few
times to equalise the cable runs.
7Tighten the locknut onto the adjuster nut
finger tight, then tighten a further three to six
clicks using self-locking pliers or a peg
spanner.
1Slacken the rear wheel nuts and chock the
front wheels. Raise and support the rear of the
vehicle and remove both rear wheels. Release
the handbrake.
2Slacken off the handbrake cable adjuster
locknut and adjuster nut.
3Free the cable from the equaliser yoke by
removing the circlip and clevis pin (see
illustration). Beware of self-tapping screws
protruding through the floor in this area.4Unhook the cable inner from the handbrake
levers on the calipers. Free the cable outer
from the caliper brackets (see illustration).
5Free the cable from the lower arm and
underbody brackets and remove it.
6Refit by reversing the removal operations,
but before refitting the rear wheels, adjust the
cable as described in the previous Section.
1Chock the front wheels and release the
handbrake. Raise and support the rear of the
vehicle.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Disconnect the handbrake cable equaliser
yoke by removing the circlip and clevis pin.
4Remove the centre console (Chapter 12).
5Remove the handbrake control lever boot.
6Disconnect the wiring from the handbrake
warning switch.
7Unbolt the handbrake lever and remove it,
complete with switch. Remove the switch if
necessary.
8Refit by reversing the removal operations.
1Remove the under-dash trim on the
passenger’s side.
2Push the module upwards and then swing it
forwards to release it from its clip.
25ABS module - removal and
refitting
24Handbrake control lever -
removal and refitting
23Handbrake cable - removal
and refitting
22Handbrake cable - adjustment
Braking system 10•11
10
21.5 Disconnecting the hose from the
caliper21.7 Brake pipe union T-piece (arrowed)22.3 Handbrake cable adjuster
Locknut previously backed off adjuster nut
22.4 Alignment marks painted on lever and
body23.3 Circlip (arrowed) on equaliser yoke
Note protruding screws in transmission tunnel23.4 Handbrake cable outer attached to
caliper bracket
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3Press the multi-plug locking lever,
disconnect the multi-plug and unhook it from
the module. Remove the module.
4Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Make sure that the multi-plug is properly
engaged before refitting the module.
Front
1Ensure that the handbrake is applied. Raise
and support the front of the vehicle.
2From under the bonnet disconnect the
wheel sensor wiring multi-plug. Unclip the
wiring, working towards the sensor.
3Remove the securing bolt and withdraw the
sensor from the stub axle carrier (see
illustration).
4Unclip the wire from the bracket on the
strut. Remove the sensor and its wiring (see
illustration).
5Clean any rust or debris from the sensor
bore in the stub axle carrier. Pack the bore
with clean wheel bearing grease.
6Renew the O-ring on the sensor and smear
it with grease.
7Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Rear
8Chock the front wheels and release the
handbrake. Slacken the rear wheel nuts, raiseand support the rear of the vehicle and remove
the rear wheel.
9Fold the rear seat cushion forwards, remove
the side kick panel and roll back the carpet to
gain access to the sensor multi-plug (see
illustration).
10Disconnect the multi-plug, release the
floor grommet and pass the cable through the
floor.
11Unclip the handbrake cable from the
suspension lower arm.
12Remove the caliper front slide bolt and
pivot the caliper rearwards to gain access to
the sensor.
13Remove the sensor securing bolt and
withdraw the sensor.
14Clean up the sensor bore, pack it with
grease and renew the sensor O-ring.
15Refit by reversing the removal operations.
1Disconnect the battery negative terminal.
2Disconnect the wiring plug then remove the
master cylinder reservoir cap; do not invert the
cap as hydraulic fluid could enter and damage
the reservoir level switch. Syphon the
hydraulic fluid from the reservoir. Note: Do not
syphon the fluid by mouth, as it is poisonous;
use a syringe or an old poultry baster.
Alternatively, open any convenient bleed
screw in the system and gently pump the
brake pedal to expel the fluid through a plastic
tube connected to the screw.
3Wipe clean the area around the brake pipe
unions on the right-hand side of the master
cylinder and place absorbent rags beneath the
pipe unions to catch any surplus fluid.
4To disconnect the plastic low pressure
hoses, use a small flat bladed screwdriver to
carefully press the flange of the collet into the
master cylinder then pull the hoses out from
the reservoir(see illustration).Unscrew the
two union nuts and disconnect the brake
pipes from master cylinder. Plug or tape over
the pipe/hose ends and master cylinder
orifices to minimise the loss of brake fluid and
to prevent the entry of dirt into the system.
Wash off any spilt fluid immediately with cold
water.5Slacken and remove the two nuts securing
the master cylinder to the vacuum servo unit
then withdraw the unit from the engine
compartment. Remove the O-ring from the
rear of master cylinder and discard it.
6If necessary remove the reservoir from the
master cylinder and withdraw the mounting
bush seals and O-rings. Note that the master
cylinder is a sealed unit with no spare parts
available separately. Therefore if it is faulty it
must be renewed as a unit.
7Fit new mounting bush seals and O-rings to
the master cylinder and refit the reservoir (if
removed). Remove all traces of dirt from the
master cylinder and servo unit mating surfaces
and fit a new O-ring onto the master cylinder
body.
8Fit the master cylinder to the servo unit
ensuring that the pushrod enters the servo unit
bore centrally. Refit the master cylinder
mounting nuts and tighten them to the
specified torque.
9Wipe clean the brake pipe/hose unions and
the master cylinder ports. Refit the pipes to
the master cylinder ports and tighten them
securely. Push the low pressure hoses into
position and check they are securely held by
their retaining collets.
10Refill the master cylinder reservoir with
new fluid and bleed the hydraulic system
1To test the operation of the servo unit
depress the footbrake several times to
exhaust the vacuum then start the engine
whilst keeping the pedal firmly depressed. As
the engine starts there should be a noticeable
“give” in the brake pedal as the vacuum builds
up. Allow the engine to run for at least two
minutes then switch it off. If the brake pedal is
now depressed it should feel normal, but
further applications should result in the pedal
feeling firmer, with the pedal stroke decreasing
with each application.
2If the servo does not operate as described,
inspect the servo unit check valve as
describedin paragraph 3 of Section 29.28Vacuum servo unit (April 1992
on) - testing, removal and
refitting
27Master cylinder (April 1992
on) - removal and refitting
26Wheel sensors - removal and
refitting
10•12Braking system
26.3 Removing a front sensor
27.4 Disconnecting the master cylinder low
pressure hoses (A) and brake pipes (B) -
models from April 1992
26.4 Unclipping the sensor wire from the
strut26.9 Rear wheel sensor multi-plug
(arrowed)
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3If the servo unit still fails to operate
satisfactorily the fault lies within the unit itself.
Repairs to the unit are not possible.
4Remove the master cylinder (Section 27).
5Disconnect the vacuum hose from the servo
unit taking care not to displace the rubber
sealing grommet. Disconnect the wiring plug
from the Pedal Travel Sensor (PTS) which is
situated on the front of the servo.
6Working from inside the vehicle, remove the
servo pushrod retaining clip from the brake
pedal. If necessary, to improve access to the
brake pedal remove the right-hand lower facia
panel .
7Slacken and remove the four nuts securing
the servo unit to the bulkhead, then return to
the engine compartment and remove the
servo unit from the vehicle. Remove the
gasket from the rear of the unit and discard it.
8Note that the vacuum servo unit is a sealed
assembly with no spare parts available
separately. Therefore if it is faulty it must be
renewed as a unit. Inspect the vacuum servo
vacuum hose sealing grommet for damage or
deterioration and renew if necessary.
9Remove all traces of dirt from the servo unit
and bulkhead mating surfaces and fit a new
gasket onto the rear of the servo.
10Manoeuvre the servo unit into position,
ensuring that the servo unit pushrod is
correctly located with the hole in the pedal.
Refit the servo unit retaining nuts and tighten
them to the specified torque setting. Secure
the pushrod in position with the retaining clip
11Carefully refit the vacuum hose to the servo
unit taking great care not to damage or displace
the sealing grommet. Reconnect the wiring
connector to the Pedal Travel Sensor (PTS).
12Refit the master cylinder as described
above. On completion start the engine and
check the operation of the servo unit.
1Disconnect the vacuum hose from the servo
unit taking care not to displace the rubber
sealing grommet.
2To disconnect the hose from the inlet
manifold, use a small flat-bladed screwdriver
to carefully press the flange of the collet into
the manifold then pull the hose out and
remove it from the vehicle (see illustration).
3Examine the vacuum hose and sealing
grommet for damage, splits, cracks or general
deterioration and renew as necessary. Make
sure that the check valve is working correctly
by blowing through the hose from the servo
unit end. Air should flow in this direction, but
not when blown through from the inlet
manifold hose end. Renew the check valve if it
is at all suspect.
4Ensure that the check valve is fitted the
correct way around then push the connector
into the manifold and check that it is securely
held by the retaining collet.5Carefully refit the vacuum hose to the servo
unit taking great care not to damage or
displace the sealing grommet.
6On completion start the engine and check
the operation of the servo unit.
1Disconnect the battery negative terminal.
2Carry out the operations described in
paragraphs 2 to 4 of Section 27.
3Remove all traces of dirt from the exterior of
the block then disconnect the motor and valve
block wiring plugs and free the diagnostic test
wiring plug from the mounting bracket.
4Position some absorbent rag beneath the
valve block then unscrew the three brake pipe
outlet unions whilst avoiding getting surplus
brake fluid in the wiring plugs. Plug the block
ports and pipe ends to minimise the loss of
fluid and prevent the entry of dirt into the
system. Wash off any spilt fluid immediately
with cold water.
5Slacken and remove the three valve block
and pump assembly mounting nuts and
remove the unit from the engine compartment.
6Note that the valve block and pump
assembly is a sealed unit and cannot be
overhauled. If it is faulty it must be renewed.
Note that if the low pressure hoses are
disconnected from the assembly, great care
must be taken when reconnecting them to
ensure that the valve block filter is not
damaged.
7Manoeuvre the assembly into position then
refit the mounting nuts and tighten them by
hand only. Taking into account the amount of
movement in the mounting rubbers, position
the assembly so that it will not contact the
mounting bracket then tighten the mounting
nuts to the specified torque setting.
8Remove the plugs then reconnect the outlet
pipes to the assembly and tighten the union
nuts securely.
9Ensure that the wiring is correctly routed
and reconnect the wiring plugs to the valve
block and pump assembly. Refit thediagnostic test wiring connector to the
mounting bracket.
10Wipe clean the brake pipe/hose unions
and the master cylinder ports. Refit the pipes
to the master cylinder ports and securely
tighten the union nuts. Push the low pressure
hoses into position and check they are
securely held by their retaining collets.
11Reconnect the battery negative terminal,
then fill the master cylinder and bleed the
complete hydraulic system using the
information given earlier in this Section.
1The anti-lock braking control module is
located behind the glovebox. To remove the
module first disconnect the battery negative
terminal.
2Open up the glovebox then, using a small
flat-bladed screwdriver, carefully prise up the
retaining clip and disconnect the glovebox
hinge arms. Withdraw the glovebox assembly
from the facia noting the plastic bushes which
are fitted to the glovebox pivot points.
3Lift the wiring plug retaining clip and
disconnect the plug to the control module. The
ABS module is the upper of the two control
modules mounted horizontally.
4Release the retaining clips and slide the
module out of the mounting bracket (see
illustration).
5Commence refitting by sliding the module
into the mounting bracket until it clips into
position.
6Connect the wiring connector to the
module, ensuring that the wiring is correctly
routed, and secure it in position with the
retaining clip.
7Ensure that the plastic bushes are correctly
fitted to the glovebox then refit the glovebox
assembly, locating the pivots in the correct
locations on the facia panel. Clip the hinge
arms onto the glovebox and check that it
opens and closes smoothly.
8Reconnect the battery negative terminal.
31Control module (April 1992
on) - removal and refitting
30Valve block and pump
assembly (April 1992 on) -
removal and refitting
29 Vacuum servo unit check
valve (April 1992 on) -
removal, testing and refitting
Braking system 10•13
10
29.2 Disconnecting brake servo vacuum
hose from the inlet manifold (DOHC engine
shown)31.4 Removing the ABS control module -
models from April 1992
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1Disconnect the battery negative terminal
then deplete the vacuum in the braking system
servo unit by depressing the footbrake several
times.
2Disconnect the wiring plug from the sensor
which is situated on the front of the vacuum
servo unit.
3Using a small flat-bladed screwdriver, prise
off the retaining circlip, then carefully withdraw
the sensor from the servo unit taking great
care not to displace the sealing O-ring (see
illustration).Note:If the O-ring becomes
displaced and falls into the servo unit it must
be recovered before the sensor is refitted.
4If the sensor is to be renewed, ensure that
the tip of the new sensor pushrod is the same
colour as that of the original.
5Fit a new O-ring to the sensor and apply asmear of clean engine oil to it to ease
installation.
6Ease the sensor into position in the servo
unit, taking care not to displace the O-ring,
and secure it in position with the circlip.
7Reconnect the sensor wiring connector and
the battery negative terminal.1Remove the driver’s seat as described in
Chapter 12.
2Carefully peel back the carpet from
immediately behind the crossmember to
reveal the G switch.
3Disconnect the wiring connector then undo
the two retaining screws and remove the
switch from the vehicle.
4Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
33G (gravity) switch (April 1992
on) - removal and refitting32Pedal Travel Sensor (PTS)
(April 1992 on) - removal and
refitting
10•14Braking system
32.3 Removing the Pedal Travel Sensor
(PTS) circlip - models from April 1992
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13Refit the track rod ends to the steering
arms. Fit the balljoint nuts and tighten them to
the specified torque, then secure with new
split pins.
14Nip up the track rod end locknuts, but do
not tighten them fully yet.
15Refit the front wheels and wheel nuts.
Lower the vehicle and tighten the wheel nuts
to the specified torque.
16Check the toe setting as described in
Section 19. When toe is correct, tighten the
track rod end locknuts fully.
Power-assisted steering
17Proceed as described for manual steering
gear, but before removing the steering gear-
to-crossmember bolts, remove the clamp
plate bolt from the steering gear valve body
(see illustration).18Pull the fluid pipes out of the valve body.
Be prepared for fluid spillage. Plug or cap the
open pipes and orifices.
19The steering gear may now be removed.
20Refit in the reverse order to removal, using
new O-rings on the fluid pipes.
21Bleed the steering gear hydraulic system
on completion.
1Remove the track rod end on the side
concerned.Also remove the locknut.
2Remove the bellows retaining clips and slide
the bellows off the track rod (see illustration).
3On manual steering racks, apply a smear of
grease to the track rod 4Fit the new bellows and secure with new
clips. Make sure that the ends of the bellows
are located in their grooves. Do not tighten the
outer clip yet - leave it slack until toe has been
checked after refitting.
5Refit the track rod end locknut, followed by
the track rod end itself.
6Repeat on the other side of the vehicle if
necessary.
Models before April 1992
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Prise off the horn push pad from the centre
of the steering wheel.
3Remove the three screws which secure the
horn switch plate. Withdraw the plate,
disconnect its wires and remove it.
4Engage the steering lock, then undo and
remove the steering wheel nut. Unlock the
steering again.
5Mark the relationship of the wheel to the
shaft, then pull the wheel off the shaft. Use a
puller if it cannot be removed by hand. Do not
use hammer blows, which may damage the
collapsible parts of the column and shaft.
6Recover the spacer from below the steering
wheel (see illustration).
7Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Tighten the steering wheel nut to the specified
torque.
Models from April 1992
8The steering wheel can be removed and
refitted as described above whilst ignoring the
5Steering wheel - removal and
refitting
4Steering rack bellows - renewal
in vehicle
11•4Steering and suspension
3.17 Clamp plate bolt (arrowed) is located
between two fluid pipes4.2 Steering rack bellows retaining clips
(arrowed)5.6 Spacer ring (arrowed) fits below
steering wheel
3.4 View of manual steering gearA Pinion nut
B Pinion
C Rack housing
D Support bush
E Track rods
F Bellows
G Slipper plug
H Spring
J Slipper
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reference to horn switch plate retaining
screws. Note that the wheel is retained by a
bolt, not a nut as on earlier models. To gain
access to the bolt, prise out the horn button
and disconnect the wiring connectors.
1This operation is for correcting small errors
in steering wheel centralisation - up to 60°. For
larger errors, remove the steering wheel and
make a rough correction by repositioning the
wheel on refitting.
2Drive the vehicle in a straight line on a level
surface. Note the angle by which the steering
wheel deviates from the desired straight-
ahead position.
3Raise the front of the vehicle by driving it
onto ramps, or with a jack and axle stands
(see “Jacking”).
4Slacken both track rod end locknuts. Also
slacken the steering rack bellows outer clips.
5Make alignment marks between each track
rod end and its rod, so that the amount of
rotation applied can be accurately determined.
6Turn both track rodsin the same direction
to correct the steering wheel position. As a
rough guide, 19°of track rod rotation will
change the steering wheel position by 1°. To
correct error at the steering wheel, rotate both
track rods anti-clockwise (viewed from the
left-hand side of the vehicle), and the reverse
to correct as anti-clockwise errors. Both track
rods must be rotated by the same amount.
7Tighten the bellows clips and the track rod
end locknuts when adjustment is correct.
Lower the vehicle.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Position the steering in the straight-ahead
position.
3Remove the steering wheel. This is not
essential, but will improve access.
4Working under the bonnet, disconnect the
intermediate shaft universal joint from the
steering column shaft.5Remove the steering column shrouds and
disconnect the switch multi-plugs. Do not
forget the ignition/starter switch.
6Disconnect the bonnet release cable from the
operating lever on the underside of the column.
7Prise out the driver’s side air vent. Remove
the under-dash insulation and trim panel on
the driver’s side, unclipping the bulb failure
module, where applicable.
8Remove the three nuts which secure the
column height adjuster to the mounting bracket
(see illustration). Remove the column assembly
by drawing it into the vehicle. Do not drop it or
otherwise mistreat it if it is to be re-used.9When refitting, have an assistant guide the
column shaft into the intermediate shaft
universal joint. Secure the column with the
three nuts inside the vehicle and adjust it to
the minimum length position, then tighten the
coupling pinch-bolt.
10Complete refitting by reversing the
removal operations.
1Remove the steering column (see
illustration).
2Insert the key into the lock and turn it to
position 1. (If the lock has failed so that the key
will not enter, destructive methods will have to
be used.)
8Steering column lock - removal
and refitting
7Steering column - removal and
refitting
6Steering wheel - centralising
Steering and suspension 11•5
11
7.8 Two of the three nuts (arrowed) which
secure the column height adjuster
8.1 View of steering wheel and column
A Steering wheel
B Mounting bracket and
spring
C Thrust washer and spring
D Lower bearingE Height adjuster
F Column shaft and spire
washer
G Multi-function switchH Ignition/steering lock
I Horn brush unit
J Upper bearing
K Multi-function switch
Make alignment marks
between the two shafts for
reference when reassembling.
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