battery FORD GRANADA 1985 Service Service Manual

panel. Disconnect the wiring connectors from
the heated window switches and fuel
computer (where fitted) and remove the panel
from the car.
14Undo the two retaining screws then
manoeuvre the control panel out of the facia
and disconnect the wiring connector (see
illustration).
15Unclip the central fan switch from the
panel then, using a small flat-bladed
screwdriver, bend back the retaining tabs and
remove the cover from the panel base plate
(see illustration).
16Cut the cable retaining clips then release
the cables from the toothed guides and
remove the base plate.
17Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure securing the cables to the base
plate using new retaining clips.
Models before April 1992
Front
1Remove the heater controls as described in
the previous Section.
2Remove the centre console as described in
Chapter 12. Also remove the console bracket
and the gear lever inner gaiter.
3Unclip the under-dash trim on both sides.
Remove the glovebox lid.
4Remove the radio (Chapter 13).
5Remove the ABS and (when applicable) the
EEC IV modules (Chapters 10 and 13).
6Remove the remaining lower trim on the
passenger side to expose the heater casing.
7Remove the two securing screws and
release the cables from the heater.
8When refitting, place the air distribution and
temperature control valve levers in their
uppermost positions, then connect the cables.
9The remainder of refitting is a reversal of the
removal procedure.
Rear
10Remove the centre console (Chapter 12).
11Remove the front seat on the side
concerned. Also remove the rear seat cushion. 12Remove the front seat belt lower anchor bolt.
13Remove the front scuff plate, which is
secured by three screws. Remove the front
screw from the rear scuff plate.
14Roll back the front carpet from the scuff
plates to expose the heater cable. Release the
cable from its ties and disconnect it from the
control unit and the nozzle (see illustration).
15Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Models from April 1992
16Remove the facia undercovers, the right-
hand lower facia panel and the glovebox .
17Undo the two retaining nuts, then release
the retaining clips and remove the trim panel
from the glovebox aperture.
18Remove the heater control panel.
19Slacken and remove the control cable
retaining screws then release the retaining
clips (one screw and one clip for each cable).
Detach the cables from the heater assembly
and withdraw them from the facia whilst noting
the correct routing (see illustration).
20Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure noting the following points.
a)Ensure that the cables are correctly routed
prior to connecting them to the heater
housing.
b)Prior to refitting the glovebox aperture trim
panel, check that the panel controls
function correctly and that the cables
move the relevant operating lever
smoothly from the fully open to the fully
closed position without any trace of undue
friction.
Models before April 1992
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Depressurise the cooling system by
slackening the expansion tank cap. Take
precautions against scalding if the system is
hot.3Disconnect the two heater hoses from the
stubs on the bulkhead. Be prepared for some
coolant spillage: catch the coolant in a clean
container if it is fit for re-use. Plug the hoses,
or tie them up with their open ends raised.
4Expel as much coolant as possible from the
heater matrix by blowing through it.
5Remove the matrix connector plate and
gasket from the bulkhead.
6Working inside the vehicle, remove the
centre console and other trim as described for
access to the heater control cables .
7Remove the instrument cluster surround,
which is secured by four screws. Also pull out
the heater louvre panel.
8Remove the facia panel top, which is
secured by five screws and four clips.
9Detach the air trunking from the heater
casing. Release the trunking from the
bulkhead when necessary.
10Remove the two nuts which secure the
heater unit. Pull the unit into the vehicle until
the pipe stubs are clear of the bulkhead, then
remove it sideways. Be prepared for coolant
spillage.
11Check the condition of the foam gasket on
the bulkhead and renew it if necessary.
12Refit by reversing the removal operations.
13Top-up the cooling system on completion,
and check the level again after the engine has
been run.
Models from April 1992
14Disconnect the battery negative terminal.
15Drain the cooling system.
19Heater assembly - removal
and refitting
18Heater control cables -
removal and refitting
3•8Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
17.14 Heater control panel retaining screws
(arrowed)
18.19 Heater control cable retaining screw
and clip (arrowed)
17.15 Exploded view of the heater control
panel
A Control cable retaining clips
B Cover
C Fan switch
D Base plate18.14 Rear heater control cable at nozzle
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16Locate the heater matrix feed and return
hoses on the engine compartment bulkhead.
Slacken the retaining clips and disconnect
both hoses from the matrix unions. Be
prepared for some coolant spillage. Plug the
matrix unions to prevent residual coolant
being spilt as the assembly is removed.
17Slacken and remove the two retaining
screws then remove the matrix cover plate
and gasket from the bulkhead; discard the
gasket as a new one should be used on
refitting.
18Remove the facia panel.
19Release the facia wiring loom from the
bulkhead to gain access to the demister
nozzle fasteners (see illustration).
20Remove the retaining nut and screw then
detach each windscreen demister nozzle from
the heater assembly. Undo the two retaining
nuts and detach the centre face level nozzle
from the heater.
21Slacken and remove the two retaining nuts
then detach the right-hand face level nozzle
from the heater and remove it from the vehicle.
Repeat the procedure for the left-hand nozzle.
22To detach each rear footwell nozzle from
the heater unit, remove the pin from the nozzle
retaining clip whilst supporting the outer part
of the retaining clip from the rear (see
illustration). Note: If the rear of the clip is not
supported when the pin is removed it will drop
down into the nozzle. To retrieve the clip will
require the removal of the vent which first
requires the front seat to be removed and
carpet lifted.
23Disconnect the wiring connector from the
heater control panel.
24Undo the two nuts securing the heater
assembly to the bulkhead then carefully
manoeuvre the assembly out of the vehicle
whilst being prepared for the possibility of
coolant spillage from the matrix unions.
25Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure noting the following points.
a)Tighten all retaining nuts and screws
securely and ensure that all nozzles are
securely connected to the heater
assembly so that there are no air gaps or
leaks.b)Check the operation of all heater cables
before refitting the facia, ensuring that the
relevant component moves smoothly from
the fully open to the fully closed position.
c)Ensure that the heater hoses are correctly
reconnected and are securely held by the
retaining clips.
d)Use a new gasket when refitting the matrix
cover plate.
e)Refill the cooling system.
1Remove the heater assembly as described
in the previous Section.
2Remove the two screws which secure the
heater matrix. Withdraw the matrix.
3If the matrix is leaking it is best to obtain a
new or reconditioned unit; home repairs are
seldom successful.4To dismantle, release the clips which secure
the casing halves together by using a
screwdriver. Carefully prise the halves apart
and separate them.
5Remove the flap valves and operating levers
from the casing halves, noting how they are
fitted for reference when reassembling.
6Flush the matrix with clean water to remove
any debris.
7Reassembly is a reversal of dismantling.
Additional clips may be needed to secure the
casing halves once they have been separated.
1Drain the cooling system.
2Noting the correct fitted positions, slacken
the retaining clips and disconnect the coolant
hoses from the valve.
3Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the top of
the valve then unclip the valve and remove it
from the retaining bracket.
4Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure ensuring that the coolant hoses are
reconnected to their original unions on the
valve and are securely held in position with the
retaining clips.
1Only those items which can be renewed
without discharging the system are described
here. Other items must be dealt with by a Ford
dealer or air conditioning specialist (see
illustration).
Compressor drivebelt
2Disconnect the battery earth lead.
3On OHC engines, remove the radiator
cooling fan.
4Slacken the compressor strap and pivot
bolts (see illustration),move the compressor
22Air conditioning system -
component renewal
21Heater coolant valve -
removal and refitting
20Heater matrix - dismantling
and reassembly
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3•9
3
19.19 Release the facia wiring loom from
the bulkhead to gain access to the
demister nozzle retaining nut and screw
(arrowed)19.22 Detach the rear footwell nozzles from
the heater assembly
If the heater matrix is blocked
it can sometimes be cleared
by reverse-flushing using a
garden hose and a proprietary
radiator cleaning product if necessary.
22.1 Air conditioning system
component locations
1 De-ice thermostat
2 Evaporator
3 Expansion valve
4 Compressor
5 Compressor clutch
6 Pressure switch
7 Sight glass
8 Dehydrator
9 Cooling fan
10 Condenser
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towards the engine and remove the old
drivebelt.
5Fit the new drivebelt, position the
compressor to achieve the correct belt tension
and tighten the strap and pivot bolts.
6Refit and secure the fan, when applicable,
and reconnect the battery.
7Recheck the belt tension after it has run for
at least 10 minutes under load.
Condenser fan and motor
8Disconnect the battery earth lead and
remove the radiator grille.
9Disconnect the fan wiring connector at the
right-hand side of the condenser.
10Remove the three securing bolts andremove the fan and motor(see illustration).
Turn the frame to position the fan wiring on the
dehydrator side to avoid damaging the wiring.
Take care also not to damage the condenser
fins or tube.
11Unclip the fan guard from the top of the
frame.
12To remove the fan blades from the motor,
remove the retaining nut and circlip. The nut
has a left-hand threadie it is undone
clockwise.
13With the blades removed, the motor can
be unscrewed from the frame.
14Reassemble and refit in the reverse order
of dismantling and removal.
De-ice thermostat
15Disconnect the battery negative lead.
16Disconnect the vacuum hoses from the
plenum chamber cover. Pull off the rubber seal
and remove the plenum chamber cover; it is
secured by four screws and one nut.
17Disconnect the thermostat from the
evaporator casing and remove it. Also remove
the thermostat probe.
18Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Heater water valve
19The heater water valve used with air
conditioning is vacuum-operated. It is located
on the right-hand side of the engine bay, near
the bulkhead. 20Drain the cooling system.
21Slacken the hose clips and detach the
coolant hoses from the valve, noting how they
are connected.
22Disconnect the vacuum hose from the top
of the valve.
23Unclip the valve from its bracket and
remove it.
24Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Refill the cooling system.
3•10Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
22.4 Air conditioning compressor adjuster
strap bolts (arrowed)22.10 Condenser fan securing bolts
(arrowed)
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4With the engine cold, disconnect the cold
air inlet trunking from the spout. Look into the
spout and check that the flap valve is covering
the hot air inlet.
5Start the engine and allow it to idle. Check
that the flap moves to cover the cold air inlet. If
the flap does not move, check the diaphragm
and heat sensor as follows.
6Stop the engine. Disconnect the diaphragm
vacuum pipe from the heat sensor. Apply
vacuum to the diaphragm, using a vacuum
head pump or by connecting the pipe directly
to manifold vacuum. If the flap now moves, the
heat sensor or vacuum line was faulty. If the
flap still does not move, the diaphragm is
faulty or the flap is jammed.
7On completion reconnect the vacuum pipe
and the cold air trunking.
Mechanical
1Carburettor models without air conditioning
are fitted with a mechanical fuel pump, located
on the left-hand side of the engine block.
2To test the pump, disconnect the ignition
coil LT lead. Disconnect the outlet hose from
the pump and place a wad of rag next to the
pump outlet. Take appropriate fire
precautions.
3Have an assistant crank the engine on the
starter. Well-defined spurts of fuel must beejected from the pump outlet - if not, the pump
is probably faulty (or the tank is empty).
Dispose of the fuel-soaked rag safely.
4To remove the fuel pump, first disconnect
the battery negative lead.
5Disconnect and plug the pump inlet and
outlet hoses. Be prepared for fuel spillage.
6Unscrew the two bolts and withdraw the
pump from the cylinder block. Remove the
gasket. If necessary extract the pushrod (see
illustrations).
7Clean the exterior of the pump in paraffin
and wipe dry. Clean all traces of gasket from
the cylinder block and pump flange.
8If the fuel pump has a removable cover,
remove the screw and withdraw the cover and
nylon mesh filter with seal (see illustrations).
Clean the filter, cover and pump in fuel. Locate
the filter in the cover and fit the cover to the
pump so that the pipe and indentation are
aligned. Tighten the screw.
9Refitting is a reversal of removal, but fit a
new gasket and tighten the bolts to the
specified torque. If necessary discard the
crimped type hose clips and fit screw type
clips.
Electrical
SOHC and 2.8 litre V6 engines
10All fuel-injection models, and carburettor
models when fitted with air conditioning, have
an electric fuel pump. The two types of pump
are not the same, although both are mounted
under the vehicle next to the fuel tank.11If the fuel pump appears to have failed
completely, check the appropriate fuse and
relay. On fuel-injection models, also check the
inertia switch (when fitted).
12To test the carburettor type pump,
disconnect the fuel supply hose from the
pressure regulator or vapour separator in the
engine compartment. Lead the hose into a
measuring cylinder.
13Take appropriate fire precautions. Switch
on the ignition for 30 seconds and measure
the quantity of fuel delivered: it should be at
least 400 cc (0.7 pint).
14To test the fuel-injection type pump,
special equipment is required. Consult a Ford
dealer or other fuel-injection specialist. The
problem may be due to a clogged filter.
15To remove a pump, first disconnect the
battery negative lead. Take appropriate fire
precautions.
16Raise and support the rear of the vehicle.
Clean the fuel pump and its surroundings.
17Clamp the tank-to-pump hose, or make
arrangements to collect the contents of the
fuel tank which will otherwise be released.
18Place a drain pan beneath the pump.
Disconnect the inlet and outlet hoses; be
prepared for fuel spillage. Caution: Fuel under
pressure may spray out of the outlet hose
union as it is slackened.
19Disconnect the wiring plug from the pump.
20Slacken the pump bracket clamp bolt and
slide the pump out of the bracket.
21Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Make sure that all hoses and unions are in
good condition.
22On2.4 & 2.9 litre V6 engines up to mid-
1990, switch the ignition on and off five times,
without cranking the engine, to pressurise the
fuel system then check the pump unions for
signs of leakage.
23Run the engine and check for leaks.
DOHC engine
24On these models the fuel pump is
mounted in the fuel tank, on the same
mounting as the fuel level sender unit(see
illustration).To test the pump specialist
equipment is required, therefore this task must
be entrusted to a Ford dealer.
4Fuel pump - testing, removal
and refitting
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•5
4
4.6a Removing the mechanical fuel pump4.6b Fuel pump pushrod
4.8a Removing the fuel pump cover - note
alignment indentations4.8b Fuel pump cover and filter screenA Fuel pumpB Fuel level sender unit
4.24 Combined fuel pump/fuel level sender
unit
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25To remove the pump, first remove the fuel
tank.
26Unscrew the fuel pump/fuel level sender
unit by engaging two crossed screwdrivers in
the slots on either side of the unit mounting
flange. Recover the seal.
27Refitting is a reversal of removal. It is
necessary to fit a new seal.
1Run the fuel level as low as possible before
removing the tank.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Remove the fuel filler cap. Siphon or pump
the remaining fuel out of the tank. Store the
fuel in a suitable sealed container.
4Remove the two screws on either side of the
filler neck.
5Raise and support the rear of the vehicle.
6Remove the shield from the right-hand rear
inner wheel arch. Also remove the rear bumper
undershield. which is secured by six screws.
7Disconnect the fuel supply and return lines
from the tank (see illustration). Drain the fuel
in the lines into a suitable container and
remove it.
8Support the fuel tank. Remove the two bolts
which secure the rear ends of the fuel tank
supporting straps.
9Lower the tank and supporting straps,unhooking the front ends of the straps from
their locations. Disconnect the wiring and the
vent hose from the tank. Remove the tank with
filler pipe attached.
10Fuel tank repairs including soldering or
welding must be left to specialists. Even when
empty, the tank may contain explosive vapour.
Proprietary compounds are available for
making temporary “cold” repairs.
11Refit the fuel tank in the reverse order to
removal. Check for leaks on completion.
1Remove the fuel tank.
2Unscrew the sender unit from the tank.
There is a Ford tool (No 23-014) which
engages with the lugs on the unit, but with
patience a pair of crossed screwdrivers or
similar items can be used instead.
3Remove the sender unit, taking care not to
damage the float or bend the float arm(see
illustration).Recover the seal.
4A defective sender unit must be renewed;
spares are not available. Renew the seal in any
case.
5Refit by reversing the removal operations.
1Fitted to DOHC and 2.4 & 2.9 litre V6
engined models, this device is designed to cutoff pressurised fuel to the fuel-injection system
in the event of an accident. It does this by
interrupting the electrical supply to the fuel
pump.
2To remove the switch, first disconnect the
battery negative lead.
3Open up the tailgate and locate the switch
which is mounted near the tailgate lock striker.
On Estate models the switch is located behind
a trim panel in the rear right-hand corner of the
luggage compartment (see illustration).
4Remove the trim panel and disconnect the
switch wiring connector (see illustrations).
5Extract the two retaining screws and
remove the switch.
6Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure. On completion, depress the switch
button to ensure that the switch has been
reset.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Unclip the under-dash insulation on the
driver’s side.
3Disconnect the cable from the pedal. The
cable may be secured by a clip, or it may slot
into a “keyhole” fitting (see illustration).
4Remove the two nuts which secure the
throttle pedal bracket to the bulkhead.
Remove the pedal and bracket.
5Refit by reversing the removal operations.
8Throttle pedal - removal and
refitting
7Fuel cut-off inertia switch -
removal and refitting
6Fuel gauge sender unit -
removal and refitting
5Fuel tank - removal and refitting
4•6Fuel and exhaust systems
5.7 Fuel tank supply (left) and return hoses
7.4a On early models it will be necessary to
remove the luggage compartment rear trim
panel to gain access to the fuel cut-off
inertia switch . . .
7.4b . . . on later models an access cover in
the trim panel is provided8.3 Throttle pedal showing “keyhole” cable
fitting (arrowed)
6.3 Removing the fuel gauge sender unit7.3 Fuel cut-off inertia switch location -
Estate models
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1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Disconnect the cable from the pedal.
3Working under the bonnet, free the cable
outer from the bulkhead and pull the cable into
the engine bay.
4On carburettor models, remove the air cleaner.5On V6 models, remove the throttle linkage
cover, which is secured by three screws (see
illustrations).
6Disconnect the cable inner from the throttle
lever on the carburettor or fuel-injection linkage.
The cable may be secured by a spring clip, or by
a simple barrel and slot arrangement (see
illustration).
7Disconnect the cable outer from its bracket.
It may be secured by a spring clip, or by four
plastic lugs. The lugs are most easily released
with a tool (see illustration).
8Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Adjust the threaded sleeve on the cable outer
so that there is a small amount of slack with
the pedal released; have an assistant operate
the throttle pedal and check that the throttle
lever moves over its full range of travel.
9On automatic transmission models, check
the adjustment of the kickdown cable.
1All carburettor models are fitted with a
vapour separator, mounted on the left-hand
inner wing. On 1.8 litre models the separator
incorporates a pressure regulator (see
illustrations).2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Identify the three hoses connected to the
separator. Disconnect the hoses, cutting off
the hose clips if they are of the crimped type.
4Remove the two securing screws and lift out
the separator. Remember it is full of fuel.
5Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Make sure that the different hoses are
connected to the correct stubs on the
regulator. Use new hose clips when
necessary.
See Chapter 1, Sections 15 and 16.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the air cleaner.
3Disconnect the automatic choke electrical
lead from the manifold thermo-switch.
4Unclip the throttle arm from the throttle lever
(see illustration).
5Disconnect the fuel hose from the
carburettor and plug it. If a crimped hose clip
is fitted, cut it off and use a worm drive clip
when refitting (see illustration).
6Depressurise the cooling system by
removing the expansion tank filler cap. Take
precautions against scalding if the system is
hot.
12Pierburg 2V carburettor -
removal and refitting
11Pierburg 2V carburettor - idle
speed and mixture adjustments
10Vapour separator - removal
and refitting9Throttle cable - removal and
refitting
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•7
4
9.5a Three screws (arrowed) secure the
throttle linkage cover9.5b Throttle linkage with cover removed9.6 Removing a throttle cable inner - barrel
and slot type
12.4 Throttle arm-to-lever clip (arrowed)
9.7 Tool for releasing accelerator cable
lugs
A 25 mm (1 in)
B Centrepunch indentsC 16 mm (0.63 in)
10.1a Fuel vapour separator without
pressure regulator
A Fuel return
B Fuel supplyC Carburettor supply
10.1b Fuel vapour separator and pressure
regulator
A Fuel supply
B Carburettor supplyC Fuel return
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1Check the cost and availability of spare parts
before deciding to dismantle the carburettor. If
the unit has seen much service, fitting a new or
reconditioned carburettor may prove more
satisfactory than any attempt at overhaul.
2Obtain a carburettor repair kit, which will
contain the necessary gaskets, diaphragms
and other renewable items.
3With the carburettor removed from the
vehicle, clean it thoroughly externally and
place it on a clean worksurface.
4 Referringto the exploded view of the
carburettor(see illustration),remove each
component part whilst making a note of its
fitted position. Make alignment marks on
linkages etc.
5Reassemble in the reverse order to
dismantling, using new gaskets, O-rings etc.
6To check the choke pull-down after
reassembly, position the fast idle screw on the
highest step of the cam. Press the pull-down
adjusting screw towards the pull-down
diaphragm and measure the choke valve
opening with a twist drill or gauge rod of the
specified diameter. Adjust if necessary using
a 2 mm Allen key (see illustration).
7After refitting the throttle damper, adjust its
position in the bracket so that with a 2 mm
(0.08 in) feeler blade inserted between the idle
speed adjusting screw and the throttle lever,
the damper plunger is just touching the
actuating lever(see illustration).
8Adjust the idle speed and mixture, and if
necessary the fast idle speed, after refitting the
carburettor.
9Recheck the throttle damper adjustment,
when applicable.
1This is not a routine operation. It should only
be necessary after overhaul, or when a new
carburettor is fitted.
2The idle speed and mixture must be
correctly set and the engine must be at
operating temperature.3Remove the air cleaner and plug the
manifold vacuum connection.
4With the engine running, position the fast
idle screw on the second highest step of the
fast idle cam(see illustration).Measure the
engine speed and compare it with that given in
the Specifications.
5If adjustment is necessary, remove the
tamperproof plug from the fast idle screw by
crushing it with pliers. Stop the engine and
open the throttle to gain access to the screw
with a small screwdriver. Turn the screw a
small amount clockwise to increase the speed,
anti-clockwise to reduce it, then reseat the
screw on the second highest step of the cam
and recheck the engine speed. Repeat as
necessary.
6Fit a new tamperproof cap where this is
required by law, then refit the air cleaner.
Idle speed cannot be adjusted in the usual
way on this carburettor, as it is controlled by
the ESC ll module.
If mixture adjustment is required, proceed
as described in Chapter 1, Section 16.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the air cleaner.3Disconnect the choke and stepper motor
wiring. The stepper motor multi-plug locking
device must be depressed to release the plug
(seeillustration).
4Unclip the throttle arm from the throttle lever
and remove the throttle cable bracket.
5Disconnect the fuel hose from the
carburettor and plug it. If a crimped type hose
clip is fitted, cut it off and use a worm drive
clip when refitting.
6Disconnect the vacuum pipe(s) from the
carburettor, noting their connecting points if
there is any possibility of confusion.
7Remove the four carburettor-to-manifold
nuts. Check that nothing has been overlooked,
then lift off the carburettor. Recover the
gasket.
8Clean the carburettor and manifold mating
faces, being careful not to sweep dirt into the
manifold.
9Refit by reversing the removal operations. If
the stepper motor has been disturbed, refer to
Chapter 5, Section 19 for the initial
adjustment.
1Check the cost and availability of spare
parts before deciding to dismantle the
carburettor. If the unit has seen much service,
fitting a new or reconditioned carburettor may
prove more satisfactory than any attempt at
overhaul.
2Obtain a carburettor repair kit, which will
contain the necessary gaskets, diaphragms
and other renewable items.
3With the carburettor removed from the
vehicle, clean it thoroughly externally and
place it on a clean worksurface.
4 Referringto the exploded view of the
carburettor(see illustration),remove each
component part whilst making a note of its
fitted position. Make alignment marks on
linkages etc.
5Reassemble in the reverse order to
dismantling, using new gaskets, O-rings etc.
Be careful not to kink the diaphragms.
17Weber 2V carburettor -
dismantling and reassembly
16Weber 2V carburettor -
removal and refitting
15Weber 2V carburettor - idle
speed and mixture adjustments
14Pierburg 2V carburettor - fast
idle adjustment
13Pierburg 2V carburettor -
dismantling and reassembly
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•9
4
14.4 Fast idle adjustment - Pierburg 2V
Tip of fast idle screw is arrowed
13.6 Choke pull-down adjustment13.7 Throttle damper adjustment - Pierburg
2V carburettor
A Actuating lever
B Damper plungerC Damper locknut
D Feeler blade
16.3 Depress locking clip (arrowed) when
disconnecting stepper motor multi-plug
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6Check the float level as follows. Hold the
top cover vertically so that the needle valve is
closed by the float. Measure the dimension
from the gasket face of the cover (with the
gasket fitted) to the top rib on the float(seeillustration).The correct value is given in the
Specifications. Correct if necessary by
bending the tag on the float arm.
7For adjustment of the automatic choke,
refer to the next Section.1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the air cleaner.
3Disconnect the feed wire from the choke bi-
metal housing.
4Make alignment marks if necessary, then
remove the three screws which secure the bi-
metal housing. Detach thehousing and
recover the heat shield.
5Fit a rubber band over the choke valve lever
and tension the rubber band to hold the choke
valve closed(see illustration).
6Using a small screwdriver, press the vacuum
pull-down rod into the pull-down housing as far
as it will go. Hold the rod in this position and use
a drill shank or similar item to measure the
clearance between the choke valve and the wall
of the primary venturi. Measure the clearance on
the down side of the valve. The desired pull-
down clearance is given in the Specifications.
7If adjustment is necessary, remove the end
plug from the pull-down diaphragm cover.
Turn the adjusting screw located under the
plug (see illustration).Refit the plug when
adjustment is correct.
18Weber 2V carburettor -
automatic choke adjustment
4•10Fuel and exhaust systems
17.6 Float level adjustment - Weber 2V
carburettor
A Rib on float
B Adjusting tagX Level measurement
18.5 Choke vacuum pull-down check -
Weber 2V carburettor
A Pull-down
diaphragm rodB Rubber band
C Screwdriver
18.7 Adjusting the vacuum pull-down -
Weber 2V carburettor
A Twist drill
B Rubber bandC Screwdriver
17.4 Exploded view of Weber 2V
carburettor
A Top cover
B Choke lever housing
C Choke bi-metal housing
D Secondary idle jet
E Secondary throttle vacuum unit
F Stepper motor
G Idle mixture adjustment screw
H Accelerator pump diaphragm
J Power valve diaphragm
K Low vacuum enrichment diaphragm
L Float
M Primary emulsion tube
N Primary idle jet
P Needle valve
Q Fuel inlet filter
R Secondary emulsion tube
procarmanuals.com

8Remove the drill and the rubber band.
9Refit the heat shield, making sure it is
properly located.
10Refit the bi-metal housing, engaging the
end of the spring with the choke valve lever.
Fit the three screws, position the housing in its
original alignment (paragraph 4) and tighten
the screws.
11If the bi-metal housing alignment has been
lost, refer to the Specifications(see
illustration).Small deviations from the
specified setting may be made to correct over
or under-choking.
12Reconnect the choke feed wire, refit the
air cleaner and reconnect the battery.
13Check the idle mixture adjustment.
To adjust idle speed, refer to Chapter 1,
Section 15.
To adjust idle mixture, refer to Chapter 1,
Section 16.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the air cleaner.
3Disconnect the wiring from the anti-
dieselling (anti-run-on) valve.
4Disconnect the wiring from the automatic
choke heater.
5Disconnect the fuel supply and return hoses,
noting their locations to aid refitting. Plug the
ends of the hoses to minimise petrol spillage and
prevent the ingress of dirt into the fuel system.
6Disconnect the link arm from the throttle
linkage.
7Disconnect the vacuum pipe.
8Release the coolant hose from the bracket
under the automatic choke housing.
9Unscrew the four Torx screws, and lift the
carburettor from the inlet manifold. Recover
the gasket.10Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
a)Ensure that the mating faces of the inlet
manifold and the carburettor are clean,
and use a new gasket.
b)Ensure that all hoses, pipes and wiring are
correctly routed, and free from
restrictions. If any of the hoses were
originally secured with crimped-type clips,
discard these and replace them with
standard worm drive hose clips.
c)On completion check and if necessary,
adjust the idle speed and mixture settings.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the air cleaner.
3Thoroughly clean all external dirt from the
carburettor.
4Disconnect the fuel supply and return hoses
from the carburettor, noting their locations to
aid refitting, and plug their ends to minimise
petrol spillage (see illustration).
5Disconnect the wiring from the automatic
choke.
6Disconnect the wiring from the anti-
dieselling (anti-run-on) valve.
7Remove the four Torx screws securing the
carburettor to the inlet manifold.
8Remove the two securing screws, and lift off
the carburettor top cover, leaving the
carburettor main body in place on the inlet
manifold.
9Slide the float retaining pin from the carburettor
top cover, tapping it gently if necessary, then lift
out the float and needle valve.
10If desired, the needle valve housing can be
unscrewed from the top cover. Recover the
washer and discard it; a new one must be
fitted on reassembly.
11Inspect the components for damage, and
renew as necessary. Check the needle valve
for wear, and check the float assembly for
leaks by shaking it to see if it contains petrol.12Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
a)Use a new washer when refitting the
needle valve housing.
b)When refitting the float and needle valve,
ensure that the tag on the float locates
under the spring clip on the needle valve.
Check that the float and needle valve
operate smoothly.
c)Check and, if necessary, adjust the float
level as described below.
d)Ensure that the carburettor mating
surfaces are clean then fit a new gasket
onto the main body and refit the
carburettor top cover.
e)If the fuel hoses were originally secured
with crimped clips, discard these and
secure the hoses in position with new
worm drive hose clips.
f)On completion, check and if necessary
adjust the idle speed and mixture.
13With the carburettor top cover removed as
described above, proceed as follows.
14Fit a new gasket to the top cover, then hold
the carburettor top cover in a vertical position,
with the needle valve uppermost and shut.
15Measure the distance between the top
cover gasket and the bottom of the float(see
illustration).
16If the distance is not as specified, adjust
by bending the tag on the float assembly.
17Refit the carburettor top cover by
reversing the removal operations.
1Disconnect the battery negative terminal.
2Remove the air cleaner assembly.
3Disconnect the diaphragm operating rod
from the throttle linkage by pulling the lower
section of the rod downwards and twist the
end of the rod from the socket.
4Remove the four cover retaining screws
then remove the cover and withdraw the
spring (see illustration).
22Weber 2V TLD carburettor -
secondary throttle valve
vacuum diaphragm renewal
21Weber 2V TLD carburettor -
needle valve and float removal,
refitting and adjustment
20Weber 2V TLD carburettor -
removal and refitting
19Weber 2V TLD carburettor -
idle speed and mixture
adjustments
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•11
4
18.11 Bi-metal housing alignment marks -
Weber 2V carburettor
A Rich
B IndexC Lean
21.4 Float and needle valve locations in
carburettor top cover - Weber 2V TLD
carburettor
A Fuel hose
connectionsB Float
C Needle valve
21.15 Float level adjustment - Weber 2V
TLD carburettor
A Check dimensionB Adjustment tag
procarmanuals.com

5Carefully remove the diaphragm and
operating rod assembly from the housing.
Examine the diaphragm for signs of splits or
holes and renew if necessary.
6Ensure that the diaphragm housing and
cover mating surfaces are clean, then insert
the diaphragm into the housing, aligning the
hole in the diaphragm with the housing
vacuum gallery.
7Ensure that the diaphragm is not kinked or
distorted in any way then locate the spring in
diaphragm centre. Refit the cover, aligning the
cover port with the housing gallery, and
securely tighten the retaining screws.
8Reconnect the operating rod to the throttle
linkage, then refit the air cleaner and
reconnect the battery negative terminal.
1Disconnect the battery negative terminal.
2For improved access, remove the air cleaner.
3Thoroughly clean all external dirt from
around the power valve housing.
4Remove the three retaining screws then lift off
the power valve cover and remove the spring.5Withdraw the diaphragm from the housing
flange. Inspect the diaphragm for cracks or
holes and renew if necessary.
6Ensure that the diaphragm and housing
flange mating surfaces are clean then insert
the diaphragm into the housing, aligning the
hole in the diaphragm with the corresponding
hole in the housing flange.
7Ensure that the diaphragm is not kinked or
distorted in any way, then locate the spring in
diaphragm centre. Refit the cover and tighten
the retaining screws securely.
8Refit the air cleaner and reconnect the
battery.
1This procedure is as describedfor the
power valve. Note the following points.
a)If necessary disconnect the vacuum pipe
from the diaphragm cover, and ensure it is
securely reconnected on completion.
b)The diaphragm cover is retained by four
screws.1This procedure is as described for the
power valve. Note the following points.
a)The accelerator pump cover is secured by
four screws.
b)The diaphragm return spring is fitted
between the pump housing and the
diaphragm, not between the diaphragm
and the cover.
c)When removing the return spring, the
supply valve should come out on the end
of the spring, complete with the O-ring
seal. Check the valve and the O-ring for
damage, and renew them if necessary.
When refitting, ensure that the O-ring seal
is correctly fitted to the end of the valve.
1Remove the carburettor top cover.
2Note the position of the alignment marks on
the choke housing and bi-metal housing and,
if necessary, make additional alignment marks
to aid refitting. Remove the three screws and
lift off the bi-metal housing and retaining plate.
3Remove the internal heat shield.
4Remove the three choke housing screws,
noting that it may be necessary to disconnect
the fast idle cam return spring to access one
of the screws, then disconnect the choke link
from the operating lever and remove the
automatic choke unit. Recover the O-ring from
the rear of the unit.
5 Undo the three retaining screws then
remove the vacuum pulldown diaphragm
cover and withdraw the diaphragm. Examine
the diaphragm for signs of splits or holes and
renew if necessary.
26Weber 2V TLD carburettor -
automatic choke unit removal,
refitting and adjustment
25Weber 2V TLD carburettor -
accelerator pump diaphragm
renewal
24Weber 2V TLD carburettor -
low vacuum enrichment
diaphragm renewal
23Weber 2V TLD carburettor -
power valve diaphragm renewal
4•12Fuel and exhaust systems
A Anti-dieselling valve
B Emulsion tubes
C Air correction jets
D Choke pull-down diaphragm assembly
E Choke linkage
F Needle valve
G Float
H Fast idle adjustment screw
J Idle speed adjustment screw
K Idle mixture adjustment screw
L Throttle valves
M Power valve assembly
N Accelerator pump assembly
P Low vacuum enrichment drive
Q Throttle kicker
R Gasket
S Main jet
22.4 Exploded view of Weber 2V TLD
carburettor
procarmanuals.com