battery FORD GRANADA 1985 Service Workshop Manual

6If necessary, dismantle the automatic choke
unit (see illustration).
7Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure noting the following points.
a)Ensure that the pull-down diaphragm is
correctly seated prior to refitting the cover.
b)Ensure that the O-ring is correctly seated
in the choke housing prior to refitting.
c)With the choke housing installed check
and, if necessary, adjust the vacuum pull-
down diaphragm.
d)Refit the heat shield ensuring that the hole
in the shield engages with choke housing
peg.
e)Engage the bi-metal spring with the choke
lever and refit the bi-metal housing. Align
the marks made, or noted, on removal and
securely tighten the housing retaining
screws.
f)On completion check and, if necessary,
adjust the fast idle speed.
Vacuum pull-down adjustment
8This procedure is as described in Section 18,
referring to the Specifications at the start of this
Chapter for the specified pull-down setting.
Fast idle speed adjustment
9Check the idle speed and mixture adjustment
as described earlier in this Chapter and leave
the tachometer connected. Note that the idle
speed must be correct before attempting to
check or adjust the fast idle speed.
10Warm the engine up to normal operating
temperature and remove the air cleaner.
11Partially open the throttle valve then close
the choke valve until the fast idle adjustment
screw is positioned on the third (middle) step
of the fast idle cam(see illustration)and
release the throttle valve.
12Start the engine without touching the
throttle pedal and check that the engine speed
is within the speed range given in the
Specifications at the start of this Chapter.
13If this is not the case, adjust the engine
speed by rotating the fast idle adjusting screw
until the speed is within the specified range.
Operate the throttle pedal and check that the
engine returns to the specified idle speed.
14Stop the engine then disconnect the
tachometer and refit the air cleaner.1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the air cleaner assembly.
3Disconnect the throttle kicker vacuum hose.
4Withdraw the plastic shield from the throttle
kicker(see illustration).
5Remove the two securing screws, then
disconnect the operating rod from the throttle
linkage, and withdraw the assembly from the
carburettor.
6The assembly can be dismantled by
removing the four securing screws and lifting
off the diaphragm cover. Recover the spring.
7Carefully withdraw the diaphragm and the
operating rod assembly from the housing.
Examine the condition of the diaphragm, and
renew it if necessary.
8Clean the mating faces of the housing and
the diaphragm cover.9Commence reassembly by inserting the
diaphragm and operating rod assembly into
the housing.
10Refit the spring, and the cover, ensuring
that the spring is correctly located, and tighten
the securing screws progressively to avoid
distorting the diaphragm.
11Further refitting is a reversal of removal,
but before refitting the plastic shield, check
the throttle kicker adjustment as described in
the following paragraphs.
Adjustment
12Warm the engine up to normal operating
temperature, and check the idle speed and
mixture settings as described earlier in this
Chapter.
13Remove the air cleaner assembly.
14Withdraw the plastic shield from the
throttle kicker, if not already done.
15Disconnect the throttle kicker vacuum
hose, and connect the throttle kicker directly
to the inlet manifold using a length of tubing.
27Weber 2V TLD carburettor -
throttle kicker removal, refitting
and adjustment
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•13
4
26.11 Fast idle speed adjustment - Weber
2V TLD carburettor
A Fast idle cam
B Fast idle screw shown on middle step of cam26.6 Exploded view of the automatic choke mechanism - Weber 2V TLD carburettor
A Upper choke operating link
B Fast idle cam return spring
C Spindle sleeveD Connecting rod and lever assembly
E Pulldown link
F Actuating lever
27.4 Throttle kicker assembly - Weber 2V TLD carburettor
1 Fuel inlet
2 Choke plate
3 Accelerator pump cover
4 Throttle kicker pivot lever5 Plastic cover
6 Throttle kicker
7 Secondary throttle valve vacuum
diaphragm
procarmanuals.com

20Checking and adjustment should be
completed within 30 seconds of the meter
readings stabilising. If this has not been
possible, run the engine at 3000 rpm for 15
seconds, then allow the engine to idle. Re-
check the CO content and carry out further
adjustments if necessary.
21On completion of adjustment, stop the
engine and disconnect the tachometer and the
exhaust gas analyser. Refit the cover to the
adjustment screw.
2.4 & 2.9 litre V6 engines
22As with the 2.8 V6, idle speed is
electronically controlled. Basic idle speed
adjustment can only be carried out by a Ford
dealer using special equipment.
23On models not equipped with a catalytic
converter, mixture adjustment can be carried
out as described above.
24On models equipped with a catalytic
converter, the mixture is controlled by the EEC IV
module and no manual adjustment is possible.
SOHC and V6 engines
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Free the throttle position sensor multi-plug
from its clip. On the OHCmodels this is below
the idle speed control valve, on the underside
of the inlet manifold; on V6 engines it is
located below the throttle valve housing.
3Relieve the locktabs and unbolt the throttle
position sensor (see illustration). Pull the
sensor off the throttle valve shaft, disconnect
the multi-plug and remove the sensor.
4Do not rotate the centre part of the sensor
beyond its normal range of movement, or
damage may result.
5When refitting, line up the flat on the throttle
valve shaft with the flat on the centre of the
sensor. Make sure that the sensor is the right
way round and fit it over the shaft.
6Fit and tighten the two bolts and secure it
with the locktabs.
7Reconnect and secure the multi-plug, then
reconnect the battery.
DOHC engine
8Disconnect the battery negative lead.
9Free the throttle position sensor wiring plug
from the retaining clip located on the
underside of the throttle body. Disconnect the
wiring plug halves by releasing the locktabs
and pulling on the plug halves, not the wiring
(see illustration).
10Unscrew the two sensor securing screws,
and withdraw the sensor from the throttle
shaft.
11Refitting is a reversal of removal, noting
that the sensor fits with the wiring at the
bottom, and ensuring that the sensor
actuating arm engages correctly with the
throttle spindle.1On DOHC models, disconnect the battery
negative lead.
2Free the throttle position sensor wiring plug
from the retaining clip located on the
underside of the throttle body. Disconnect the
wiring plug halves by releasing the locktabs
and pulling on the plug halves, not the wiring.
3Disconnect the throttle cable and (where
necessary) the speed control cable from the
throttle linkage.
4Loosen the securing clip, and disconnect
the air inlet hose from the throttle body.
5Unscrew the four securing bolts and
withdraw the throttle body from the inlet
manifold along with the gasket.
6Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in
mind the following points.
a)Ensure that the mating faces of the
throttle body and the inlet manifold are
clean, and fit a new gasket.
b)On completion, adjust the throttle cable
and where necessary, adjust the speed
control cable so that there is only a small
amount of slack in the cable.
c)Where applicable, check and if necessary
adjust the idle mixture.
SOHC and all V6 engines
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Disconnect the multi-plug from the idle
speed control valve by prising up the retaining
lug and pulling the plug, not the wires (see
illustration).
3Remove the two securing nuts (OHC) or
bolts (V6) and withdraw the valve (see
illustration). Recover the gasket.
4If necessary, the solenoid can be separated
from the valve block by removing the two
screws to enable the parts to be cleaned.
Contamination or air leaks in this area will
cause unstable idling. After careful cleaning,
the parts can be reassembled.
5Refit the valve, using a new gasket, and
tighten the retaining nuts or bolts. Reconnect
the multi-plug and the battery.
6Start the engine and check that the idle is
steady. Bring the engine to operating
temperature, then switch on all possible electrical
loads (headlights, heated screens, heater blower
etc) and check that the idle remains steady. This
confirms that the valve is working.
DOHC engine
7Disconnect the battery negative lead.
8Loosen the securing clip, and disconnect
the air inlet hose from the throttle body.
34Idle speed control valve -
removal and refitting33Throttle body - removal and
refitting
32Throttle position sensor -
removal and refitting
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•15
4
32.3 Throttle position sensor retaining bolts
(arrowed)32.9 Throttle position sensor (A) and wiring
plug (B)
34.2 Disconnecting the idle speed control
valve34.3 Removing the idle speed control valve
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9Unscrew the securing nut, and release the
air inlet tube from the bracket on the engine
compartment front panel.
10Disconnect the wiring plug from the idle
speed control valve.
11Release the air cleaner lid securing clips,
then remove the air inlet tube, plenum
chamber, and air cleaner lid as an assembly,
disconnecting the breather hose from the air
inlet tube.
12Unscrew the two securing bolts, and
withdraw the valve from the air inlet tube (see
illustration). Recover the gasket.
13Clean the valve and air inlet tube mating
faces before refitting, taking care not to allow
dirt to enter the air inlet tube.
14Refitting is a reversal of removal, using a
new gasket.15On completion, start the engine and check
that the idle speed is stable - if not, check for
air leaks around the valve. Switch on all
available electrical loads and check that the
idle speed is maintained - if not, suspect a
faulty valve.
OHC engines
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Release the locking clip and disconnect the
multi-plug from the meter (see illustration).
3Release the hose clip and disconnect the air
trunking from the meter.
4Unclip the air cleaner cover and remove it
with the meter. Do not drop or jar it.
5To separate the meter from the cover,
remove the four retaining bolts.
6Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Make sure that the seal in the air cleaner cover
is correctly located and align the hose clip
(seeillustration).
7Check the exhaust CO level on completion.
V6 engines
8Proceed as described above, noting that
there are two meters instead of one.
SOHC and 2.8 litre V6 engines
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2On V6 models, remove the throttle linkage
cover, which is secured by three screws.
3Remove the trunking which connects the
airflow meter(s) to the inlet manifold.
4On OHCmodels, release the distributor cap
and place it clear of the fuel rail. It will be
necessary to disconnect the cap-to-coil HT
lead at the coil.
5Disconnect the multi-plugs from the idle
speed control valve, the throttle position
sensor and the coolant temperature sensor.
6On V6 models, unclip the HT leads from the
fuel pressure regulator bracket.
7Disconnect the vacuum and fuel pipes from
the fuel pressure regulator, and the fuel feed
union from the fuel rail (see illustration). Be
prepared for fuel spillage.
8On V6 models, disconnect the throttle
cable(s). Remove the plenum chamber and
throttle body.
9Disconnect the injector wiring harness.
10Unbolt the fuel rail and remove it with the
injectors (see illustrations). It will be
necessary to pull on the rail in order to free the
injectors from the manifold.
11Disconnect the multi-plugs from the
injectors (see illustration).
36Fuel-injectors - removal and
refitting
35Vane airflow meter(s) -
removal and refitting
4•16Fuel and exhaust systems
34.12 Withdrawing the idle speed control
valve
36.7 Fuel feed union (arrowed) on fuel rail
36.10a Fuel rail and injectors36.10b Fuel rail retaining bolts (arrowed) on
V6 inlet manifold36.11 Disconnecting a fuel injector multi-
plug
35.2 Disconnecting the airflow meter multi-
plug. Meter is inverted to show locking clip
(arrowed)35.6 Correct alignment of air inlet trunking
and hose clip
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12Extract the retaining clips and pull the
injectors out of the fuel rail(see illustration).
13The sealing rings and retaining clips on all
injectors must be renewed, even if only one
injector has been removed from the rail. The
lower seal fits between the thick and thin
washers at the tip of the injector (see
illustration).
14Commence refitting by coating the injector
sealing rings with silicone grease to Ford spec
ESEM 1C171A.
15Press the injectors into the fuel rail and
secure them with the new retaining clips.
Press the clips home.
16Reconnect the multi-plugs to the injectors.
17Place the assembled fuel rail on the inlet
manifold and press the injectors into their
holes.
18On V6 models, fit and tighten the fuel rail
bolts. Refit the plenum chamber, using new
gaskets, and tighten the bolts to the specified
torque. Reconnect the throttle cable(s).
19On OHCmodels, fit the fuel rail bolts but
do not tighten them yet.
20On all models, reconnect the fuel and
vacuum pipes. Tighten the fuel pipe unions.
21On OHCmodels, tighten the fuel rail bolts
to the specified torque.
22Reconnect the multi-plugs which were
displaced during removal. On V6 models,
secure the HT leads to the pressure regulator
bracket.
23On OHCmodels, refit the distributor cap.
24Refit the air inlet trunking.
25On V6 models, refit the throttle linkage
cover.
26Reconnect the battery. Run the engine
and check that there are no fuel leaks.
27Check the exhaust CO level.
DOHC engine
28Disconnect the battery negative lead.
29If desired, to improve access, disconnect
the wiring from the inlet air temperature sensor
in the inlet manifold. Similarly, the throttle
cable can be moved to one side by
disconnecting the cable from the throttle
linkage and the spark plug HT leads can be
disconnected and moved to one side, noting
their locations and routing to aid refitting.
30Slowly loosen the fuel rail fuel feed unionto relieve the pressure in the system. Be
prepared for fuel spillage, and take adequate
fire precautions.
31Disconnect the fuel feed hose from the
fuel rail (see illustration).
32Disconnect the fuel return hose from the
fuel pressure regulator. Again, be prepared for
fuel spillage.
33Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the top
of the fuel pressure regulator.
34Disconnect the wiring plugs from the fuel
temperature sensor and the fuel-injectors,
noting their locations to assist with refitting.
35Unscrew the two securing bolts, and
withdraw the fuel rail.
36Lift the fuel-injectors from their locations in
the cylinder head (see illustration).
37Overhaul of the fuel-injectors is not
possible, as no spares are available. If faulty,
an injector must be renewed.
38Commence refitting by fitting new seals to
both ends of each fuel-injector. It is advisable
to fit new seals to all the injectors, even if only
one has been removed. Lubricate the seals
with clean engine oil.
39Further refitting is a reversal of removal,
ensuring that all hoses, pipes and wiring plugs
are correctly connected.
40On completion, where applicable, check
and if necessary adjust the idle mixture.
2.4 & 2.9 litre V6 engines
41Disconnect the battery.
42Remove the air inlet pipes from the throttle
housing.43Disconnect the link arm from the throttle
housing and unscrew the two bolts which
retain the throttle cable bracket.
44Disconnect the vacuum pipes from the
throttle housing, crankcase vent valve and the
fuel pressure regulator.
45Disconnect the wiring connectors from the
throttle position sensor, engine and coolant
temperature sensors and the idle speed
control valve.
46Extract the six Torx bolts which hold the
air inlet chamber in position.
47Carefully disconnect the fuel-injector
wiring connectors (see illustration).
48Depressurise the fuel system.
49Disconnect the fuel rail feed pipe and the
fuel return pipe. This is best done at the wing
valance and will require cutting the crimped
hose clips.
50The crimped-type clips must then be
replaced with standard worm drive hose clips
on refitting.
51Unscrew the fuel rail retaining bolts and
remove the fuel rail.
52Extract the retaining clips and remove the
injectors from the fuel rail.
53Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure bearing in mind the following.
54Renew all the upper and lower injector
seals, even if only one injector has been
disturbed. Lubricate all new seals with clean
engine oil.
55On models fitted with an early level fuel
pressure regulator, it is necessary to fit a new
fuel inlet pipe to the fuel rail, the new
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•17
4
36.12 Removing a fuel injector from the rail
A Retaining clip36.13 Injector with seals removed36.31 Disconnecting the fuel feed hose
from the fuel rail
36.36 Lifting a fuel injector from the
cylinder head36.47 Disconnecting a fuel injector wiring
connector
procarmanuals.com

connector is supplied with a captive “tell-tale”
ring, the purpose being to hold the connector
teeth retracted. When the two halves of the
connector are pressed together, the ring is
ejected to show that the connection has been
successfully made. Fit the fuel pipe connector
clip (see illustrations).
56As soon as the injectors and fuel rail are
installed and the fuel pipes are connected,
connect the battery and switch the ignition on
and off twice, without cranking the engine, to
pressurise the fuel system. With the system
pressurised check all disturbed fuel unions for
leaks.
57Refit and reconnect all other removed and
disconnected components.
58Reconnect the battery.
SOHC and 2.8 litre V6 engines
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2On V6 models, unclip the HT leads from the
fuel pressure regulator bracket.
3Place a drain pan or plenty of rags beneath the
regulator, then disconnect the fuel return pipe
(see illustration). Be prepared for fuel spillage.
4Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the
regulator (see illustration).
5Slacken the fuel feed union nut (see
illustration). Wait until any residual fuel
pressure has decayed, then unscrew the nut.
6Unscrew the nut from the base of the
regulator. Remove the regulator.
7When refitting, only tighten the regulator
base nut lightly at first. Secure the fuel feed
union and tighten its nut, then fully tighten the
base nut.
8Reconnect the vacuum and fuel return pipes.
9Remove the drain pan or rags. On V6
models, secure the HT leads to their clip.
10Reconnect the battery. Switch the ignition
on and off five times (without cranking the
engine) and check that there are no fuel leaks
from the regulator.
DOHC engine
11Disconnect the battery negative lead.
12Slowly loosen the fuel rail feed union to
relieve the pressure in the system. Beprepared for fuel spillage, and take adequate
fire precautions.
13Disconnect the fuel return hose from the
pressure regulator (see illustration). Again, be
prepared for fuel spillage.
14Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the top
of the pressure regulator.
15Unscrew the two securing bolts, and
withdraw the regulator from the fuel rail along
with the O-ring seal. Discard the O-ring.
16Fit a new O-ring to the regulator, and
lubricate it with a smear of clean engine oil.
17Fit both the securing bolts to the regulator,
then position the regulator on the fuel rail, and
tighten the securing bolts.
18Further refitting is a reversal of removal,
but if the fuel return line was originally secured
with a crimped-type clip, discard this and use
a new worm drive hose clip.
19On completion, check the fuel line
connections for leaks, pressurising the system
by switching the ignition on and off several times.
2.4 & 2.9 litre V6 engines
20Disconnect the battery negative lead.
21Depressurise the fuel system.
22On models equipped with an aluminium
fuel rail and late level fuel pressure regulator,
remove the fuel return pipe retaining collar
from the top of the regulator.
23On all models, place a suitable container
below the engine to catch any spilt fuel, then
disconnect the fuel return pipe and the
vacuum pipe from the fuel pressure regulator
(see illustration).
37Fuel pressure regulator -
removal and refitting
4•18Fuel and exhaust systems
36.55a Pressing connector together to
eject “tell-tale” ring
37.4 Disconnecting the vacuum pipe from
the fuel pressure regulator
37.5 Slackening the fuel pressure regulator
feed union nut37.13 Disconnect the fuel return hose
(arrowed) from the fuel pressure regulator37.23 Disconnecting the vacuum hose from
the fuel pressure regulator
36.55b Fitting fuel rail connector clip37.3 Disconnecting the fuel return pipe
from the fuel pressure regulator
procarmanuals.com

24Unbolt and remove the regulator from the
fuel rail. Remove the sealing O-ring and
discard it; a new one must be used on
refitting.
25Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure applying a smear of clean engine oil
to the new regulator O-ring. On models
equipped with a late level regulator, ensure
that the return pipe is securely held in position
by the retaining collar.
26On completion, switch the ignition on and
off five times without cranking the engine to
pressurise the fuel system.
27With the system pressurised check all
disturbed fuel unions for signs of leakage.
1The potentiometer is located on the right-
hand side of the engine compartment, behind
the MAP sensor.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Remove the securing screw, then withdraw
the potentiometer and disconnect the wiring
plug.
4Refitting is a reversal of removal. On
completion adjust the idle mixture.1On 2.4 & 2.9 litre V6 engines, disconnect the
battery.
2Disconnect the switch wiring connector.
3Slacken and remove the switch from the
fuel rail (see illustration).
4Refitting is a reverse of removal, tightening
the switch to the specified torque setting.
Carburettor models
All engines except DOHC
1Remove the carburettor or, if preferred, the
final removal of the carburettor from the
manifold can be left until the manifold has
been removed).
2Drain the cooling system.
3Disconnect the coolant and vacuum pipes
from the manifold, noting their positions if
there is any possibility of confusion.
4Disconnect the wires from the manifold
heater and the coolant temperature sender
unit.
5Disconnect the crankcase ventilation hose
from the manifold.
6Unscrew the six nuts and bolts which
secure the manifold and withdraw it. Recover
the gasket.
7Before refitting the manifold, make sure that
the mating surfaces are perfectly clean.
8Apply a bead of sealant at least 5 mm (0.2 in)
wide around the central coolant aperture on
both sides of a new gasket.
9Place the gasket over the studs, then fit the
manifold and secure it with the six nuts and
bolts. Tighten the nuts and bolts evenly to the
specified torque.
10The remainder of refitting is a reversal of
the removal procedure. Refill the cooling
system on completion.
DOHC engine
11Disconnect the battery negative lead.
12Drain the cooling system.13Remove the air cleaner.
14Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
thermostat housing and the inlet manifold,
noting the locations to assist with refitting.
15Disconnect the fuel supply and return
hoses from the carburettor. Plug their ends to
minimise petrol spillage.
16Release the coolant hose from the bracket
under the automatic choke housing.
17Disconnect the HT leads from the spark
plugs, and move them to one side.
18Disconnect all relevant wiring and vacuum
pipes from the carburettor, thermostat
housing and inlet manifold, noting the
locations as an aid to refitting.
19Disconnect the crankcase breather hose
from the inlet manifold.
20Disconnect the throttle cable from the
throttle linkage.
21Make a final check to ensure that all
relevant wires, pipes and hoses have been
disconnected to facilitate removal of the
manifold.
22Unscrew the ten bolts and two nuts
securing the manifold to the cylinder head.
23Lift the manifold clear of the cylinder head
and recover the gasket.
24Recover the two plastic spark plug spacers
from the recesses in the cylinder head.
25If desired, the carburettor can be removed
from the manifold by unscrewing the securing
screws.
26Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
a)Ensure that all mating faces are clean and
renew all gaskets.
b)Ensure that the spark plug spacers are in
position in the cylinder head recesses
before refitting the manifold.
c)Tighten all manifold securing nuts and
bolts progressively to the specified torque.
d)Make sure that all hoses, pipes and wires
are securely reconnected in their original
positions. Replace all crimp-type hose
clips (where fitted) with standard worm
drive hose clips.
e)On completion, refill the cooling system,
check the adjustment of the throttle cable,
then check, and if necessary adjust the
idle speed and mixture.
Fuel-injection models
SOHC engine
27Disconnect the battery negative lead.
28Drain the cooling system.
29Disconnect the vacuum pipe(s) from the
manifold. The number of pipes varies
according to equipment. Label the pipes if
necessary (see illustration).
30Disconnect the fuel-injection harness
multi-plugs at the bulkhead end of the
manifold (see illustration).
31Disconnect the oil pressure warning light
sender wire from below the manifold.
32Release the hose clips and move the
airflow meter-to-manifold trunking clear of the
manifold.
40Inlet manifold - removal and
refitting
39Fuel rail temperature switch -
removal and refitting
38Mixture adjustment
potentiometer - removal and
refitting
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•19
4
39.3 Fuel rail components
A Fuel pressure regulator
B Fuel temperature switch
C Fuel rail
D Fuel injectors
40.29 Manifold vacuum pipe T-piece
(arrowed)40.30 Fuel-injection wiring harness plugs
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33Remove the distributor cap,unclip the HT
leads and move the cap out of the way.
34Remove the strut which runs from the
manifold to the right-hand side of the cylinder
head. It is secured by two nuts (see
illustration).
35Remove the bracket which joins the base
of the manifold to the left-hand side of the
block. It is secured by four bolts (see
illustration).
36Unbolt the throttle cable bracket. Unhook
the cable inner and move the bracket and
cable(s) aside (see illustration).
37Disconnect the fuel feed pipe from the
injector rail, and the return pipe from the fuel
pressure regulator. Be prepared for fuel
spillage.
38Disconnect the coolant pipe from the baseof the manifold. Be prepared for coolant
spillage.
39Remove the six nuts and bolts which
secure the manifold to the cylinder head.
There may be an earth strap attached to one
of the studs by an extra nut.
40Carefully withdraw the manifold from the
cylinder head, complete with its associated
fuel-injection components (see illustration). If
the distributor obstructs removal, extract the
manifold front stud by locking two nuts
together on it and thus unscrewing the stud
(see illustration). Alternatively, remove the
distributor.
41Recover the gasket from the cylinder
head.
42With the manifold removed, items such asthe fuel-injector rail and the throttle body
housing can be removed if required (see
illustrations).
43Clean the mating faces of the manifold
and cylinder head. Keep dirt out of the ports
and other orifices.
44Commence refitting by applying a bead of
sealant at least 5 mm (0.2 in) wide around the
central coolant aperture on both sides of a
new gasket.
45Fit the gasket over the studs, refit the
manifold and secure with the six nuts and bolts.
Tighten them evenly to the specified torque.
46The remainder of refitting is a reversal of
the removal procedure. Refill the cooling
system on completion.
DOHC engine
47Disconnect the battery negative lead.
48Drain the cooling system.
49Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
thermostat housing and the inlet manifold.
50Disconnect the air inlet hose from the front
of the inlet manifold.
51Disconnect the breather hoses and the
vacuum hoses from the inlet manifold.
52Disconnect the throttle cable and (where
necessary) the speed control cable from the
throttle linkage (see illustration).
53Disconnect the HT leads from the spark
plugs, noting the locations to aid refitting, and
move them to one side.
54Disconnect the wiring from the cooling fan
switch, the engine coolant temperature
sensor, and the temperature gauge sender.
4•20Fuel and exhaust systems
40.34 Inlet manifold-to-cylinder head
bracing strut
40.42a Removing the fuel rail and injectors
from the manifold
40.40a Removing the inlet manifold40.40b Use two nuts locked together
(arrowed) to remove the stud
40.42b Removing the throttle body housing40.52 Disconnect the throttle cable from
the linkage. Speed control cable (arrowed)
40.35 Two bolts (arrowed) secure the
bracket to the manifold; the bolts securing
it to the block are hidden40.36 Unbolting the throttle cable bracket
procarmanuals.com

55Release the throttle position sensor wiring
connector from the clip under the throttle
body, and separate the two halves of the
connector.
56Remove the fuel-injectors.
57Check that all relevant wiring, hoses and
pipes have been disconnected to facilitate
removal of the manifold.
58Unscrew the ten bolts and two nuts
securing the inlet manifold to the cylinder
head, and carefully withdraw the manifold.
Recover the gasket.
59Recover the two plastic spark plug
spacers from the recesses in the cylinder head
(see illustration).
60If desired, the manifold can be dismantled
with reference to the relevant paragraphs of
this Chapter.
61Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
a)Ensure that the spark plug spacers are in
position in the cylinder head recesses
before refitting the manifold.
b)Ensure manifold and cylinder head mating
surfaces are clean and dry and fit a new
gasket.
c)Tighten the manifold retaining nuts and
bolts evenly and progressively to the
specified torque.
d)Refit the fuel-injectors.
e)Make sure that all hoses, pipes and wires
are securely reconnected in their original
positions.
f)On completion, refill the cooling system.
g)Check the adjustment of the throttle cable
and where necessary, adjust the speed
control cable so that only a small amount
of slack is present in the cable.
h)Where applicable, check and if necessary
adjust the idle speed and mixture.
V6 engines
62Disconnect the battery negative lead.
63Drain the cooling system.
64Remove the throttle linkage cover.
65Release the hose clips and move the
airflow meter-to-manifold trunking aside.
Unclip or remove the crankcase ventilation
hose.
66Disconnect the radiator top hose and the
heater hose from the outlet at the front of the
manifold. Be prepared for some coolant spillage.67Disconnect the multi-plugs from the idle
speed control valve, the temperature gauge
sender unit; the coolant temperature sensor
and the throttle position sensor. Also
disconnect the injector wiring harness.
68Disconnect the throttle cable from the
linkage, unclip it and move it aside. On
automatic transmission models, also
disconnect the downshift cable or multi-plug,
as applicable.
69Disconnect the fuel feed and return pipes.
Be prepared for fuel spillage.
70Remove the HT leads and the distributor.
71Remove the plenum chamber, which is
secured by eight bolts.
72Remove the rocker covers, which are each
secured by seven bolts.
73Disconnect the water pump bypass hose
from the inlet manifold.
74Remove the eight bolts which secure the
inlet manifold to the cylinder heads.
75Lift off the manifold complete with fuel
pressure regulator, fuel rail, throttle body
housing etc. If it is stuck, carefully lever it free.
Do not apply leverage at the mating faces.
Recover the gasket.
76Clean all mating faces, being careful to
keep dirt out of ports and other orifices.
Obtain new gaskets for both the cylinder head
and plenum chamber sides of the manifold,
and for the rocker covers.
77Commence refitting by applying sealant
(Ford part No A70X-19554-BA, or equivalent)
around the ports and coolant passages on the
cylinder head.
78Apply sealant around the apertures on
both sides of the gasket. then fit the gasket to
the cylinder heads.
79Refit the manifold and insert the securing
bolts. Tighten the bolts, in the order shown
(see illustration),through the first four stages
given in the Specifications.
80Refit the water pump bypass hose.
81Refit the rocker covers, using new
gaskets. The adhesive sides of the gaskets
must face the covers.
82Reverse the remaining removal
operations, but do not refit the throttle linkage
cover yet.
83When the cooling system has beenrefilled, reconnect the battery and start the
engine. Check for fuel and other leaks.
84Bring the engine to operating temperature,
then stop it and carry out the final tightening of
the inlet manifold bolts as follows.
85Release the air inlet trunking. Unplug the
idle speed control valve and the throttle
position sensor. Unbolt the plenum chamber
and move it aside, disconnecting vacuum and
breather hoses as necessary.
86Slacken, but do not remove, the two bolts
which secure the fuel rail to the manifold.
87Tighten the inlet manifold bolts to the
Stage 5 specified torque, again following the
sequence shown. A special cranked spanner
(Ford tool No 21-079, or equivalent)(see
illustration)will be needed to tighten No 4
bolt when the distributor is fitted. In the
absence of such a spanner, remove the
distributor again.
88Tighten the fuel rail securing bolts.
89Refit the disturbed components. Run the
engine again and check the ignition timing and
the exhaust CO level .
90Refit the throttle linkage cover.
SOHC and all V6 engines
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Apply copious quantities of penetrating oil
to the manifold and exhaust pipe flange nuts
and bolts.
3On carburettor models, remove the air
cleaner and the hot air pick-up pipe.
4Unbolt any heat shields or shrouds from the
manifold.
5Unbolt the exhaust pipe(s) from the manifold
flange. Support the exhaust system if
necessary.
6Unbolt the manifold from the cylinder head
and remove it. Recover the gasket.
7Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Use a new gasket, and apply anti-seize
compound to the various nuts and bolts.
Tighten the manifold fastenings to the
specified torque.
41Exhaust manifold(s) - removal
and refitting
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•21
4
40.59 Removing a spark plug spacer from
the cylinder head recess40.79 Inlet manifold bolt tightening
sequence
Arrow points to front of engine40.87 Cranked spanner needed for
tightening V6 inlet manifold bolt with
distributor fitted
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DOHC carburettor engine
8This procedure is essentially as described
above, noting the following points:
a)Note the plastic bush which is fitted to the
rear manifold stud. This must be removed
before the gasket can be withdrawn.
b)On refitting ensure that the mating
surfaces are clean and dry and fit new
gaskets.
c)Apply a thin coat of anti-seize compound
to the manifold studs to aid future
removal.
d)Tighten the manifold nuts to the specified
torque settings.
DOHC fuel-injection engine
9Disconnect the battery negative lead.
10Disconnect the wiring plug from the idle
speed control valve at the front of the plenum
chamber.
11Loosen the clamp, and detach the air inlet
hose from the air inlet tubing.
12Unscrew the securing nut, and release the
air inlet tube from the bracket on the engine
compartment front panel.
13Release the air cleaner lid securing clips,
then lift away the air inlet tube, plenum
chamber and air cleaner lid as an assembly,
disconnecting the breather hose from the air
inlet tube.
14On models fitted with a catalytic
converter, disconnect the exhaust gas oxygen
sensor wiring plug.
15Unscrew the securing nuts and disconnect
the exhaust downpipe from the manifold.
Recover the gasket. Support the exhaust
downpipe from underneath the vehicle (eg
with an axle stand) to avoid placing
unnecessary strain on the exhaust system.
16Unscrew the six securing nuts, and lift the
manifold from the cylinder head. Recover the
gasket.
17Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
a)Ensure that all mating faces are clean, and
use a new gasket.
b)Tighten the manifold securing nuts and
the downpipe securing nuts progressively
to the specified torque (where given).
SOHC and 2.8 litre V6 engines
1Periodically inspect the exhaust system for
freedom from corrosion and security of
mountings. Large holes will be obvious; small
holes may be found more easily by letting the
engine idle and partly obstructing the tailpipe
with a wad of cloth.
2Check the condition of the rubber
mountings by applying downward pressure on
the exhaust system and observing the
mountings for splits or cracks. Renew
deteriorated mountings.
3The exhaust systems fitted in production
have fewer sections than those available for
repair. Repair sections may be fitted to
production systems by cutting at the
appropriate point.
4The production exhaust systems are made
of aluminised and stainless steel. Repair
systems are available to the same standard, or
in standard quality (SQ) painted mild steel.
5It is recommended that the whole exhaust
system be removed even if only part requires
renewal, since separation of old joints, cutting
pipes etc is much easier away from the
vehicle. Proceed as follows.
6Disconnect the battery negative lead. Raise
and support the vehicle.
7Unbolt the manifold-to-downpipe flanged
joint(s).
8On V6 models, unbolt the left-hand front
silencer mounting.
9Release any earth straps.
10With the help of an assistant, unhook the
system from its mountings and remove it.
11Renew sections as necessary. Apply
exhaust jointing compound to sliding and
flanged joints, but do not tighten their clamps
yet. Use new sealing rings where necessary
(see illustration).
12Offer the system to the vehicle and hook it
onto the mountings.
13Refit any earth straps. On V6 models, also
refit the left-hand front silencer mounting.
14Loosely fit the manifold flange nuts.
Correct the alignment of the system, then
tighten all clamp nuts and bolts, starting at the
manifold flange(s) and working rearwards.
15Check that the system alignment is still
satisfactory then reconnect the battery. Run
the engine and check for leaks.
16When the system has warmed up, stop the
engine and carefully check the tightness of the
clamp nuts and bolts.
DOHC and 2.4 & 2.9 litre V6
engines
17Follow the above procedure, noting that
flanged joints incorporating gaskets may be
used to join exhaust sections on these
models. Where applicable, renew the gaskets
on refitting.
18On models fitted with a catalyticconverter, disconnect the battery negative
terminal and disconnect the exhaust gas
oxygen (HEGO) sensor wiring plug before
removing the downpipe.
DOHC engine
Note: The exhaust gas oxygen (HEGO) sensor
is delicate and will not work if it is dropped or
knocked, if the power supply is disrupted, or if
any cleaning materials are used on it. Never
touch the tip of the sensor as this can also
damage it.
1Ensure that the engine and the exhaust
system are cold.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle, and support it securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking”).
4Disconnect the sensor wiring plug halves by
releasing the locktabs and pulling on the plug
halves, not the wiring.
5Slide the heat shield (where fitted) from the
sensor.
6Bearing in mind the note made at the start
of this operation, unscrew the sensor from the
exhaust downpipe, and recover the sealing
ring (see illustration).
7Commence refitting by ensuring that the
sensor threads and the corresponding threads
in the downpipe are clean.
8Refit the sensor using a new sealing ring,
and tighten it to the specified torque.
9Further refitting is a reversal of removal, but
on completion start the engine, and check for
leaks around the sensor sealing ring.
V6 engines
10The sensors fitted to these models can be
removed and refitted using the information
given above, noting that on early models there
was only one sensor, which was fitted at the
point where the two downpipes meet below
the engine, and on some later models there
are two sensors, one in each downpipe.
43Exhaust gas oxygen (HEGO)
sensor (models with catalytic
converter) - removal and
refitting
42Exhaust system - inspection,
repair and renewal
4•22Fuel and exhaust systems
43.6 Exhaust gas oxygen (HEGO) sensor
(viewed from underneath)
42.11 Exhaust pipe flanged joint
A Sealing ring
B Flange
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Models up to July 1990
1The carbon canister is situated in the engine
compartment where it is mounted onto the
right-hand valance next to the suspension
strut mounting.
2To remove the canister first disconnect the
battery negative terminal. If necessary, undo
the two coolant expansion tank retaining
screws and position the tank clear of the
canister to improve access.
3Disconnect the vacuum hose from the top
of the canister.
4Slacken and remove the mounting bolt and
withdraw the canister from the engine
compartment.
5Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure.
Models from July 1990
6The carbon canister is situated behind the
right-hand rear wheel where it is mounted onto
the vehicle underbody (see illustration).
7To gain access to the canister, chock the
front wheels then jack up the rear of the
vehicle and support it securely on axle stands
(see “Jacking”).
8Disconnect the battery negative terminal.
9Disconnect the vacuum hose from the top
of the canister and remove the canister
retaining screw.
10Lift the canister upwards to disengage it
from the mounting bracket and remove it from
under the car.
11Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure ensuring that the canister retaining
clip is correctly located in the mounting
bracket.1The purge solenoid is located on the right-
hand side of the engine compartment next to the
suspension strut mounting (see illustration).
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Disconnect the solenoid wiring plug halves
by releasing the locktabs and pulling on the
plug halves, not the wiring.
4Note the locations of the two solenoid
pipes, and the orientation of the solenoid to
assist with refitting.
5Disconnect the two pipes from the solenoid,
and withdraw the solenoid from the location.
6Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring
that the solenoid pipes are correctly
reconnected, and that the solenoid is correctly
orientated as noted before removal.
SOHC and 2.8 litre V6 engines
1It is generally believed that continuous use
of unleaded fuel can cause rapid wear of
conventional valve seats. Valve seat inserts
which can tolerate unleaded fuel are fitted to
some engines. These engines are identified as
follows:
1.8 litre - S stamped adjacent to No 4 spark
plug
2.0 litre - A, L, P, PP or R stamped adjacent
to No 4 spark plug
2.8 litre - D or E stamped in centre of
cylinder head exhaust flange
2Engines which are marked as above can be
run entirely on unleaded fuel.
3Engines which are not fitted with the specialvalve seat inserts can still be run on unleaded
fuel, but one tankful of leaded fuel should be
used for every three tankfuls of unleaded. This
will protect the valve seats.
4On all models, the ignition timing may have
to be retarded when unleaded fuel is used. For
up to date information consult a Ford dealer.
DOHC engines
5All models can be operated on unleaded
petrol without the need for any adjustments.
Note that models fitted with a catalytic
converter must only be operated on unleaded
petrol, and leaded petrol must notbe used.
2.4 & 2.9 litre V6 engines
6All engines can be run on 95 octane
unleaded fuel (ie Premium grade unleaded).
7On 2.9 litre models equipped with a manual
gearbox produced after approximately
December 1988 and models equipped with
automatic transmission which were produced
after approximately July 1988, there is no
need to adjust the ignition timing to run on
unleaded petrol. These models can be
identified by their ignition module number
suffixes; on manual gearbox models the
module should have a JA suffix and on models
equipped with automatic transmission the
module should have a BD suffix. Refer to your
Ford dealer for further information.
8On all other earlier models, the ignition
timing must be adjusted before the engine can
be run on unleaded petrol. On these models
the timing must be adjusted by the fitment of
an octane adjustment lead, described in
Chapter 5, Section 23. On both the 2.4 & 2.9
litre engines, the lead should be fitted and the
red terminal earthed; this retards the ignition
timing by 4°from the initial setting of 12°
BTDC, to the correct setting of 8°BTDC.
9Models which are equipped with a catalytic
converter must be run on unleaded fuel only.
46Unleaded fuel - general
45Carbon canister purge
solenoid (models with
catalytic converter) - removal
and refitting44Carbon canister (models with
catalytic converter) - removal
and refitting
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•23
4
44.6 Carbon canister location (arrowed) -
models from July 199045.1 Carbon canister purge valve
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