sensor FORD MONDEO 1993 Service Manual PDF

the specified mileage (or time) since the last
service has been reached.
4To reset the service interval system and
turn off the light, a switch inside the glovebox
must be depressed for a minimum of 4
seconds with the ignition switched on. This
should be carried out by a Ford dealer if the
vehicle is still in the warranty period.
Component renewal
5The following paragraphs describe brief
removal procedures for the auxiliary warning
system components. Disconnect the battery
negative (earth) lead before commencing
work (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1). Refitting
procedures are a reversal of removal.
Display warning bulb
6Remove the control assembly.
7Prise off the cover, and pull out the relevant
bulb and bulbholder.
Low air temperature warning sender
unit
8Remove the front bumper.
9Unclip the sender unit and disconnect the
multi-plug (see illustration).
Engine oil level sensor
10Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
11Place a container beneath the oil level
sensor, to catch any spilt oil.12Unscrew the screws and remove the
cover from the sensor.
13Disconnect the multi-plug.
14Unscrew and remove the sensor, and
remove the seal (see illustration).
Door ajar sensor
15Remove the door lock as described in
Chapter 11, Section 14.
16Unclip the sensor and disconnect the
multi-plug.
Low coolant warning switch
17Refer to Chapter 3, Section 6.
Low washer fluid switch
18Disconnect the multi-plug from the
washer fluid reservoir.
19Drain or syphon out the fluid from the
reservoir.
20Using a screwdriver, lever out the switch
from the reservoir (see illustration).
Service indicator reset switch
21Remove the glove compartment lid as
described in Chapter 11, Section 32.
22Carefully lever out the switch using a
small screwdriver.
23Remove the rear cover and disconnect
the wiring (see illustration).
Control assembly
24Remove the instrument panel surround,
referring to Section 10.25Unscrew the mounting screws,
disconnect the multi-plugs and remove the
assembly.
Bulb failure module
26Remove the lower facia panel from under
the steering wheel.
27Unclip the bulb failure module and
disconnect the multi-plug.
Note: From November 1993, for added
security, a complex Bosch immobiliser system
was fitted to some models. For further details,
refer to your Ford dealer.
1All UK models are fitted with an anti-theft
alarm system, incorporating movement
sensors and an ignition immobiliser. The
system is activated when the vehicle is
locked.
2The system includes a start inhibitor circuit,
which makes it impossible to start the engine
with the system armed.
3The movement sensors consist of two
ultrasonic units, located in the “B” pillars,
incorporating transmitters and receivers (see
illustrations). The receivers check that the
echo frequency matches the original
frequency. If there is any significant
difference, the system triggers the alarm.
20 Anti-theft alarm system- general
information
12•18 Body electrical system
19.9 Low air temperature sender unit
removal
1 Clip 2 Sender unit 3 Multi-plug19.14 Engine oil level sensor removal
1 Cover 2 Multi-plug 3 Sensor 4 Seal19.20 Removing the low washer fluid
switch
19.23 Service indicator switch removal
1 Lever out the switch 2 Cover 3 Wiring20.3A Disconnecting a movement sensor
multi-plug20.3B Removing a movement sensor
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4The system module is located on a bracket
beneath the right-hand side of the facia. The
set and reset switches are located in a
housing by the lock barrel holder in the doors,
tailgate or bootlid.
5To allow temporary opening of the tailgate
or bootlid, an inhibit switch is fitted to the lock
barrel. This suppresses the alarm system until
the tailgate or bootlid is closed again.
6Where remote central locking is fitted, an
infra-red receiver is located on the exterior
door handle (see illustration). Note that
excessive heat can destroy this receiver;
therefore, it should be covered with aluminium
tape if (for instance) a paint-drying heat
process is to be used.
7The alarm system is fitted with its own horn.
On Hatchback and Saloon models, it is
located on the left-hand side of the luggage
compartment; on Estate models, it is located
on the right-hand side of the luggage
compartment (see illustration).
8The alarm system incorporates a self-test
function, which can be activated by operating
the bonnet switch or one of the lock position
switches eight times within 10 seconds.
During the check, the horn or buzzer issues
acoustic signals which should occur every
time a door, bonnet or tailgate is opened. If
the doors are double-locked, the signal will
occur when something is moved within the
passenger compartment. A more
comprehensive test can be made using the
Ford FDS 2000 diagnostic tester.
9The door lock switches associated with the
alarm system are located behind the door trim
panels (see illustration).
1Cruise control is available as an option on
some models.
2The cruise control system components are
shown in the accompanying illustration (see
illustration). The system is active at road
speeds between 25 mph and 125 mph.
3The system comprises an electronic speed
control unit with integral actuator and
21 Cruise control system -
general information
Body electrical system 12•19
12
21.2 Cruise control component location on left-hand drive models
1 Speed control unit
2 Vehicle speed sensor (VSS)
3 Throttle valve actuator
4 Interrupt relay (vehicles with traction control
system only)5 Stop-light switch, brake and clutch pedal-
operated disable switches
6 Driver’s controls (buttons on steering wheel)
20.6 Infra-red receiver location on the
door handle
1 Receiver 2 Infra-red eye on the door handle20.7 Alarm system horn location on
Hatchback and Saloon models20.10 Alarm system door lock switch
removal
1 Clips (arrowed) 2 Multi-plug
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switches mounted in the engine compartment
with a control cable connected to the throttle
valve actuator, driver-operated switches,
brake and clutch pedal switches, an indicator
light, and a road speed sensor.
4The driver-operated switches are mounted
on the steering wheel, and allow the driver to
control the various functions.
5The vehicle speed sensor uses the
speedometer cable drive pinion to generate
pulses which are fed to the speed control unit.
6The stop-light switch, brake pedal switch
and (when applicable) clutch pedal switch are
used to disable the cruise control system. The
stop-light switch is activated when the brake
pedal is applied gently, and the brake pedal
switch is activated when the brake pedal is
applied forcibly.
7An indicator light on the instrument panel is
illuminated when the system is in operation.
8The following paragraphs describe brief
removal procedures for the cruise control
system components. The battery negative
(earth) lead should be disconnected before
commencing work (refer to Chapter 5, Sec-
tion 1). Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Speed control switch
9Remove the steering column upper and
lower shrouds, with reference to Chapter 10.
10Remove the air bag module as described
in Section 29.11Disconnect the multi-plugs, then unscrew
the screws and remove the switch.
Disable switches
12Remove the lower facia panel from under
the steering column.
13Disconnect the multi-plugs from the
clutch switch, brake pedal switch and stop-
light switch.
14To remove the clutch and brake pedal
switches, twist them anti-clockwise. To
remove the stop-light switch, twist it
clockwise (see illustration).
15Refitting is the reverse of removal. To
ensure correct operation of the brake pedal
switches, reset the switch by fully extending
its plunger (see illustration).Depress the
pedal until the distance between it and the
mounting bracket is as shown in Chapter 9,
illustration 25.6. Hold the pedal in this
position, clip the switch securely into position
and gently raise the pedal to the at-rest
position. This will automatically set the
position of the switch.
Speed control actuator
16Remove the air cleaner as described in
Chapter 4.
17Disconnect the actuator cable from the
throttle linkage on the throttle housing, by
releasing the inner cable end fitting from the
segment and unclipping the outer cable from
the bracket.
18Unscrew the actuator mounting bolt, thenslide the actuator out of the mounting pin
holes.
19Disconnect the multi-plug and remove the
assembly.
20Depress the actuating cable cap locking
arm, and remove the cap by turning it anti-
clockwise (see illustration).
21Gently raise the cable retaining lug by a
maximum of 0.5 mm, and push the cable end
out of the slot in the pulley.
22When refitting, make sure that the cable
end locks into the slot in the pulley.
23To locate the cable cap onto the actuator
pulley, keep the cable taut and in the pulley
groove, and pull the throttle linkage end of the
cable to draw the cable cap onto the pulley.
24To refit the cable cap, keep the cable taut
and the pulley still, then refit the cable cap
tabs into the actuator slots; turn the cap
clockwise until the locking arm locates on the
locking stop. Note:Incorrect assembly of the
cable onto the pulley may result in a high idle
speed. Check that the throttle lever is in its
idle position after refitting the actuator.
Removal
Washer reservoir and pump
1Unscrew the bolts, and release the clips to
remove the radiator lower cover.
2Unscrew the mounting bolts, and pull the
reservoir forwards slightly (see illustration).
For better access, it may be necessary to
remove the front bumper.
3Disconnect the multi-plugs for the
windscreen washer pump and fluid level
sensor (see illustration).
4Disconnect the hoses from the windscreen
washer pump and (where applicable) from the
headlamp washer pump. Anticipate some loss
of fluid by placing a container beneath the
reservoir.
5Withdraw the reservoir from the vehicle.
6Pull the level sensor, the windscreen
washer pump, and (where applicable) the
22 Windscreen/tailgate washer
system components -
removal and refitting
12•20 Body electrical system
21.14 Removal of the speed control
disable switches
1 Clutch switch 3 Stop-light switch
2 Brake pedal switch21.15 Resetting the brake pedal and stop-
light switches21.20 Removing the actuator cable
locking arm
22.2 Washer reservoir mounting bolts
(arrowed)22.3 Disconnecting the washer pump and
level sensor multi-plugs
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12•26 Wiring diagrams
Diagram 2: Engine management – sensor inputs (manual transmission models)
procarmanuals.com

Wiring diagrams 12•29
12
Diagram 5: Engine management – sensor inputs (automatic transmission models)
procarmanuals.com

REF•7
Engine fails to rotate when attempting to start
m mBattery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 5).
m mBattery discharged or faulty (Chapter 5).
m mBroken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit
(Chapter 5).
m mDefective starter solenoid or switch (Chapter 5).
m mDefective starter motor (Chapter 5).
m mStarter pinion or flywheel ring gear teeth loose or broken (Chap-
ter 5).
m mEngine earth strap broken or disconnected (Chapter 5).
m mAutomatic transmission not in Park/Neutral position, or selector
lever position sensor faulty (Chapter 7, Part B).
Engine rotates but will not start
m mFuel tank empty.
m mBattery discharged (engine rotates slowly) (Chapter 5).
m mBattery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 5).
m mIgnition components damp or damaged (Chapters 1 and 5).
m mBroken, loose or disconnected wiring in the ignition circuit
(Chapters 1 and 5).
m mWorn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m mMajor mechanical failure (eg camshaft drive) (Chapter 2, Part A).
Engine difficult to start when cold
m
mBattery discharged (Chapter 5).
m mBattery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 5).
m mWorn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m mOther ignition system fault (Chapters 1 and 5).
m mEngine management system fault (Chapters 1, 4, 5 and 6)
m mLow cylinder compressions (Chapter 2, Part A).
Engine difficult to start when hot
m
mAir filter element dirty or clogged (Chapter 1).
m mEngine management system fault (Chapters 1, 4, 5 and 6)
m mLow cylinder compressions (Chapter 2, Part A).
m mFaulty hydraulic tappet(s) (Chapter 2, Part A).
Starter motor noisy or excessively-rough in
engagement
m mStarter pinion or flywheel ring gear teeth loose or broken (Chapter 5).
m mStarter motor mounting bolts loose or missing (Chapter 5).
m mStarter motor internal components worn or damaged (Chapter 5).
Engine starts but stops immediately
m
mLoose or faulty electrical connections in the ignition circuit
(Chapters 1 and 5).
m mEngine management system fault (Chapters 1, 4, 5 and 6)
m mVacuum leak at the inlet manifold (Chapters 1, 4 and 6).
Engine idles erratically
m
mIdle speed control valve faulty (Chapter 4).
m mEngine management system fault (Chapters 1, 4, 5 and 6)
m mAir filter element clogged (Chapter 1).
m mVacuum leak at the inlet manifold or associated hoses (Chap-
ters 1, 4 and 6).
m mWorn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m mFaulty hydraulic tappet(s) (Chapter 2, Part A).
m mUneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2, Part A).
m mCamshaft lobes worn (Chapter 2).
m mTiming belt incorrectly-tensioned (Chapter 2, Part A).
Engine misfires at idle speed
m
mWorn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m mFaulty spark plug HT leads (Chapter 1).
m mIdle speed control valve faulty (Chapter 4).
m mIncorrect ignition timing (Chapters 5 and 6).
m mEngine management system fault (Chapters 1, 4, 5 and 6)
m mVacuum leak at the inlet manifold or associated hoses (Chap-
ters 1, 4 and 6).
m mFaulty hydraulic tappet(s) (Chapter 2, Part A).
m mUneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2, Part A).
m mDisconnected, leaking or perished crankcase ventilation hoses
(Chapters 1 and 6).
Fault Finding
The vehicle owner who does his or her own maintenance according
to the recommended service schedules should not have to use this
section of the manual very often. Modern component reliability is such
that, provided those items subject to wear or deterioration are inspected
or renewed at the specified intervals, sudden failure is comparatively
rare. Faults do not usually just happen as a result of sudden failure, but
develop over a period of time. Major mechanical failures in particular are
usually preceded by characteristic symptoms over hundreds or even
thousands of miles. Those components which do occasionally fail
without warning are often small and easily carried in the vehicle.
With any fault-finding, the first step is to decide where to begin
investigations. Sometimes this is obvious, but on other occasions, a
little detective work will be necessary. The owner who makes half a
dozen haphazard adjustments or replacements may be successful in
curing a fault (or its symptoms), but will be none the wiser if the fault
recurs, and ultimately may have spent more time and money than was
necessary. A calm and logical approach will be found to be more
satisfactory in the long run. Always take into account any warning
signs or abnormalities that may have been noticed in the period
preceding the fault - power loss, high or low gauge readings, unusual
smells, etc - and remember that failure of components such as fuses
or spark plugs may only be pointers to some underlying fault.
The pages which follow provide an easy reference guide to the
more common problems which may occur during the operation of the
vehicle. These problems and their possible causes are grouped underheadings denoting various components or systems, such as Engine,
Cooling system, etc. The Chapter and/or Section which deals with the
problem is also shown in brackets. Whatever the fault, certain basic
principles apply. These are as follows:
Verify the fault. This is simply a matter of being sure that you know
what the symptoms are before starting work. This is particularly
important if you are investigating a fault for someone else, who may
not have described it very accurately.
Don’t overlook the obvious. For example, if the vehicle won’t start, is
there petrol in the tank? (Don’t take anyone else’s word on this
particular point, and don’t trust the fuel gauge either!) If an electrical
fault is indicated, look for loose or broken wires before digging out the
test gear.
Cure the disease, not the symptom. Substituting a flat battery with a
fully-charged one will get you off the hard shoulder, but if the underlying
cause is not attended to, the new battery will go the same way. Similarly,
changing oil-fouled spark plugs for a new set will get you moving again,
but remember that the reason for the fouling (if it wasn’t simply an
incorrect grade of plug) will have to be established and corrected.
Don’t take anything for granted. Particularly, don’t forget that a
“new” component may itself be defective (especially if it’s been
rattling around in the boot for months), and don’t leave components
out of a fault diagnosis sequence just because they are new or
recently fitted. When you do finally diagnose a difficult fault, you’ll
probably realise that all the evidence was there from the start.
1 Engine
Introduction
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Engine misfires throughout the driving speed range
m mFuel filter choked (Chapter 1).
m mFuel pump faulty or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4).
m mFuel tank vent blocked or fuel pipes restricted (Chapter 4).
m mVacuum leak at the inlet manifold or associated hoses (Chap-
ters 1, 4 and 6).
m mWorn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m mFaulty spark plug HT leads (Chapter 1).
m mFaulty ignition coil (Chapter 5).
m mEngine management system fault (Chapters 1, 4, 5 and 6)
m mUneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2, Part A).
Engine hesitates on acceleration
m
mWorn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m mEngine management system fault (Chapters 1, 4, 5 and 6).
m mVacuum leak at the inlet manifold or associated hoses (Chap-
ters 1, 4 and 6).
Engine stalls
m mIdle speed control valve faulty (Chapter 4).
m mEngine management system fault (Chapters 1, 4, 5 and 6).
m mVacuum leak at the inlet manifold or associated hoses (Chap-
ters 1, 4 and 6).
m mFuel filter choked (Chapter 1).
m mFuel pump faulty or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4).
m mFuel tank vent blocked or fuel pipes restricted (Chapter 4).
Engine lacks power
m
mIncorrect ignition timing (Chapters 5 and 6).
m mEngine management system fault (Chapters 1, 4, 5 and 6).
m mTiming belt incorrectly fitted or incorrectly tensioned (Chapter 2,
Part A).
m mFuel filter choked (Chapter 1).
m mFuel pump faulty or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4).
m mUneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2, Part A).
m mWorn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m mVacuum leak at the inlet manifold or associated hoses (Chap-
ters 1, 4 and 6).
m mBrakes binding (Chapters 1 and 9).
m mClutch slipping (Chapter 8).
m mAutomatic transmission fluid level incorrect (Chapter 1).
Engine runs-on after switching off
m
mIdle speed excessively high (Chapters 4 and 6).
m mEngine management system fault (Chapters 1, 4, 5 and 6).
m mExcessive carbon build-up in engine (Chapter 2, Part A).
m mHigh engine operating temperature (Chapter 3).
Engine backfires
m
mIgnition timing incorrect (Chapters 5 and 6).
m mEngine management system fault (Chapters 1, 4, 5 and 6).
m mTiming belt incorrectly fitted or incorrectly tensioned (Chapter 2,
Part A).
m mVacuum leak at the inlet manifold or associated hoses (Chap-
ters 1, 4 and 6).
Oil pressure warning light illuminated with engine
running
m mLow oil level or incorrect oil grade (Chapter 1).
m mFaulty oil pressure warning light switch (Chapter 2, Part A).
m mWorn engine bearings and/or oil pump (Chapter 2).
m mHigh engine operating temperature (Chapter 3).
m mOil pressure relief valve defective (Chapter 2, Part A).
m mOil pick-up strainer clogged (Chapter 2, Part A).
Engine noises
Pre-ignition (pinking) or knocking during acceleration or under
load
m mIgnition timing incorrect (Chapters 5 and 6).
m mIncorrect grade of fuel (Chapter 4).
m mVacuum leak at the inlet manifold or associated hoses (Chap-
ters 1, 4 and 6).
m mExcessive carbon build-up in engine (Chapter 2, Part A).
Whistling or wheezing noises
m mLeaking inlet manifold gasket (Chapter 2, Part A).
m mLeaking exhaust manifold gasket or downpipe-to-manifold joint
(Chapters 1, 2 Part A, and 4).
m mLeaking vacuum hose (Chapters 1, 4, 6 and 9).
m mBlowing cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2, Part A).
Tapping or rattling noises
m mFaulty hydraulic tappet(s) (Chapter 2, Part A).
m mWorn valve gear or camshaft (Chapter 2, Part A).
m mWorn timing belt or tensioner (Chapter 2, Part A).
m mAncillary component fault (water pump, alternator, etc) (Chap-
ters 3 and 5).
Knocking or thumping noises
m mWorn big-end bearings (regular heavy knocking, perhaps less
under load) (Chapter 2, Part B).
m mWorn main bearings (rumbling and knocking, perhaps worsening
under load) (Chapter 2, Part B).
m mPiston slap (most noticeable when cold) (Chapter 2, Part B).
m mAncillary component fault (water pump, alternator, etc) (Chap-
ters 3 and 5).
REF•8Fault Finding
2 Cooling system
Overheating
m mInsufficient coolant in system (Chapter 1).
m mThermostat faulty (Chapter 3).
m mRadiator core blocked or grille restricted (Chapter 3).
m mRadiator electric cooling fan(s) or coolant temperature sensor faulty
(Chapter 3).
m mEngine management system fault (Chapters 1, 4, 5 and 6).
m mPressure cap faulty (Chapter 3).
m mAuxiliary drivebelt worn or slipping (Chapter 1).
m mIgnition timing incorrect (Chapters 5 and 6).
m mInaccurate coolant temperature gauge sender (Chapter 3).
m mAir-lock in cooling system (Chapter 1).
Overcooling
m
mThermostat faulty (Chapter 3).
m mInaccurate coolant temperature gauge sender (Chapter 3).
External coolant leakage
m
mDeteriorated or damaged hoses or hose clips (Chapter 1).
m mRadiator core or heater matrix leaking (Chapter 3).
m mPressure cap faulty (Chapter 3).
m mWater pump seal leaking (Chapter 3).
m mBoiling due to overheating (Chapter 3).
m mCore plug leaking (Chapter 2, Part B).
procarmanuals.com

6 Automatic transmission
REF•10Fault Finding
Note:Due to the complexity of the automatic transmission and its
electronic control system, it is difficult for the home mechanic to
properly diagnose and service this unit. For problems other than the
following, the vehicle should be taken to a dealer service department
or automatic transmission specialist.
Fluid leakage
m mAutomatic transmission fluid is usually deep red in colour. Fluid
leaks should not be confused with engine oil, which can easily be
blown onto the transmission by airflow.
m mTo determine the source of a leak, first remove all built-up dirt and
grime from the transmission housing and surrounding areas, using
a degreasing agent, or by steam-cleaning. Drive the vehicle at low
speed, so airflow will not blow the leak far from its source. Raise
and support the vehicle, and determine where the leak is coming
from. The following are common areas of leakage:
(a) Housing joints (Chapters 1 and 7, Part B).
(b) Dipstick tube (Chapters 1 and 7, Part B).
(c) Transmission-to-fluid cooler pipes/unions (Chapters 3 and 7,
Part B).
(d) Speedometer drive pinion O-ring (Chapter 7, Part B).
(e) Differential side gear oil seals (Chapter 7, Part B).
Transmission fluid brown, or has burned smell
m mTransmission fluid level low, or fluid in need of renewal (Chapter 1).
Transmission will not downshift (kickdown) with
accelerator pedal fully depressed
m mLow transmission fluid level (Chapter 1).
m mIncorrect selector cable adjustment (Chapter 7, Part B).
m mEngine management system fault (Chapters 1, 4, 5 and 6).
General gear selection problems
m
mChapter 7, Part B, deals with checking and adjusting the selector
cable on automatic transmissions. The following are common
problems which may be caused by a poorly-adjusted cable:
(a) Engine starting in gears other than Park or Neutral.
(b) Indicator on gear selector lever pointing to a gear other than the
one actually being used.
(c) Vehicle moves when in Park or Neutral.
(d) Poor gear shift quality or erratic gear changes.
Refer to Chapter 7, Part B for the selector cable adjustment
procedure.
Engine will not start in any gear, or starts in gears
other than Park or Neutral
m mIncorrect selector lever position sensor adjustment (Chapter 7,
Part B).
m mIncorrect selector cable adjustment (Chapter 7, Part B).
Transmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy, or has no
drive in forward or reverse gears
m mThere are many probable causes for the above problems, but the
home mechanic should be concerned with only one possibility -
fluid level. Before taking the vehicle to a dealer or transmission
specialist, check the fluid level and condition of the fluid as
described in Chapter 1. Correct the fluid level as necessary, or
change the fluid if needed. If the problem persists, professional
help will be necessary.
7 Driveshafts
Clicking or knocking noise on turns (at slow speed
on full-lock)
m mLack of constant velocity joint lubricant (Chapter 8).
m mWorn outer constant velocity joint (Chapter 8).
Vibration when accelerating or decelerating
m
mWorn inner constant velocity joint (Chapter 8).
m mBent or distorted driveshaft (Chapter 8).
8 Braking system
Note:Before assuming that a brake problem exists, make sure that the tyres are in good condition and correctly inflated, that the front wheel
alignment is correct, and that the vehicle is not loaded with weight in an unequal manner. Apart from checking the condition of all pipe and hose
connections, any faults occurring on the Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) should be referred to a Ford dealer for diagnosis - the same applies to the
components of the Traction Control System (TCS).
Vehicle pulls to one side under braking
m mWorn, defective, damaged or contaminated front or rear brake
pads/shoes on one side (Chapter 1).
m mSeized or partially-seized front or rear brake caliper/wheel cylinder
piston (Chapter 9).
m mA mixture of brake pad/shoe lining materials fitted between sides
(Chapter 1).
m mBrake caliper mounting bolts loose (Chapter 9).
m mRear brake backplate mounting bolts loose (Chapter 9).
m mWorn or damaged steering or suspension components (Chap-
ter 10).
Noise (grinding or high-pitched squeal) when brakes
applied
m mBrake pad or shoe friction lining material worn down to metal
backing (Chapter 1).
m mExcessive corrosion of brake disc or drum (may be apparent after
the vehicle has been standing for some time) (Chapter 1).
m mForeign object (stone chipping, etc) trapped between brake disc
and splash shield (Chapter 1).
Excessive brake pedal travel
m mInoperative rear brake self-adjust mechanism (Chapter 9).
m mFaulty master cylinder (Chapter 9).
m mAir in hydraulic system (Chapter 9).
procarmanuals.com

REF•15Glossary of Technical Terms
GGapThe distance the spark must travel in
jumping from the centre electrode to the side
electrode in a spark plug. Also refers to the
spacing between the points in a contact
breaker assembly in a conventional points-
type ignition, or to the distance between the
reluctor or rotor and the pickup coil in an
electronic ignition.
GasketAny thin, soft material - usually cork,
cardboard, asbestos or soft metal - installed
between two metal surfaces to ensure a good
seal. For instance, the cylinder head gasket
seals the joint between the block and the
cylinder head.
GaugeAn instrument panel display used to
monitor engine conditions. A gauge with a
movable pointer on a dial or a fixed scale is an
analogue gauge. A gauge with a numerical
readout is called a digital gauge.
HHalfshaftA rotating shaft that transmits
power from the final drive unit to a drive
wheel, usually when referring to a live rear
axle.
Harmonic balancerA device designed to
reduce torsion or twisting vibration in the
crankshaft. May be incorporated in the
crankshaft pulley. Also known as a vibration
damper.
HoneAn abrasive tool for correcting small
irregularities or differences in diameter in an
engine cylinder, brake cylinder, etc.
Hydraulic tappetA tappet that utilises
hydraulic pressure from the engine’s
lubrication system to maintain zero clearance
(constant contact with both camshaft and
valve stem). Automatically adjusts to variation
in valve stem length. Hydraulic tappets also
reduce valve noise.
IIgnition timingThe moment at which the
spark plug fires, usually expressed in the
number of crankshaft degrees before the
piston reaches the top of its stroke.
Inlet manifoldA tube or housing with
passages through which flows the air-fuel
mixture (carburettor vehicles and vehicles with
throttle body injection) or air only (port fuel-
injected vehicles) to the port openings in the
cylinder head.
JJump startStarting the engine of a vehicle
with a discharged or weak battery by
attaching jump leads from the weak battery to
a charged or helper battery.
LLoad Sensing Proportioning Valve (LSPV)A
brake hydraulic system control valve that
works like a proportioning valve, but also
takes into consideration the amount of weight
carried by the rear axle.
LocknutA nut used to lock an adjustment
nut, or other threaded component, in place.
For example, a locknut is employed to keep
the adjusting nut on the rocker arm in
position.
LockwasherA form of washer designed to
prevent an attaching nut from working loose.
MMacPherson strutA type of front
suspension system devised by Earle
MacPherson at Ford of England. In its original
form, a simple lateral link with the anti-roll bar
creates the lower control arm. A long strut - an
integral coil spring and shock absorber - is
mounted between the body and the steering
knuckle. Many modern so-called MacPherson
strut systems use a conventional lower A-arm
and don’t rely on the anti-roll bar for location.
MultimeterAn electrical test instrument with
the capability to measure voltage, current and
resistance.
NNOxOxides of Nitrogen. A common toxic
pollutant emitted by petrol and diesel engines
at higher temperatures.
OOhmThe unit of electrical resistance. One
volt applied to a resistance of one ohm will
produce a current of one amp.
OhmmeterAn instrument for measuring
electrical resistance.
O-ringA type of sealing ring made of a
special rubber-like material; in use, the O-ring
is compressed into a groove to provide the
sealing action.
Overhead cam (ohc) engineAn engine with
the camshaft(s) located on top of the cylinder
head(s).Overhead valve (ohv) engineAn engine with
the valves located in the cylinder head, but
with the camshaft located in the engine block.
Oxygen sensorA device installed in the
engine exhaust manifold, which senses the
oxygen content in the exhaust and converts
this information into an electric current. Also
called a Lambda sensor.
PPhillips screwA type of screw head having a
cross instead of a slot for a corresponding
type of screwdriver.
PlastigageA thin strip of plastic thread,
available in different sizes, used for measuring
clearances. For example, a strip of Plastigage
is laid across a bearing journal. The parts are
assembled and dismantled; the width of the
crushed strip indicates the clearance between
journal and bearing.
Propeller shaftThe long hollow tube with
universal joints at both ends that carries
power from the transmission to the differential
on front-engined rear wheel drive vehicles.
Proportioning valveA hydraulic control
valve which limits the amount of pressure to
the rear brakes during panic stops to prevent
wheel lock-up.
RRack-and-pinion steeringA steering system
with a pinion gear on the end of the steering
shaft that mates with a rack (think of a geared
wheel opened up and laid flat). When the
steering wheel is turned, the pinion turns,
moving the rack to the left or right. This
movement is transmitted through the track
rods to the steering arms at the wheels.
RadiatorA liquid-to-air heat transfer device
designed to reduce the temperature of the
coolant in an internal combustion engine
cooling system.
RefrigerantAny substance used as a heat
transfer agent in an air-conditioning system.
R-12 has been the principle refrigerant for
many years; recently, however, manufacturers
have begun using R-134a, a non-CFC
substance that is considered less harmful to
the ozone in the upper atmosphere.
Rocker armA lever arm that rocks on a shaft
or pivots on a stud. In an overhead valve
engine, the rocker arm converts the upward
movement of the pushrod into a downward
movement to open a valve.
Adjusting spark plug gap
Plastigage
Gasket
procarmanuals.com

REF•17Index
A
A pillar trim - 11•20
ABS - 9•14
Accelerator cable - 4•4
Accelerator pedal - 4•5
Accumulator - 3•9
Acknowledgements - 0•4
Adaptive damping switch - 12•8
Aerial - 12•22
Air bag - 0•5, 1•22, 12•22
Air cleaner - 4•3, 6•19
Air conditioning - 1•15, 3•2, 3•8, 3•9, 6•11
Air distribution control - 3•8
Air induction system - 4•9
Air intake components - 4•3
Air mass meter - 4•3, 6•10, 6•11, 6•12
Air temperature warning sender unit -
12•18
Alarm - 11•17, 12•18
Alternator - 5•5, 5•6
Amplifier - 12•21
Anti-lock Braking System - 9•14
Anti-roll bar - 10•8, 10•12, 10•15
Anti-theft alarm system - 12•18
Antifreeze - 1•2, 1•22, 3•2
Asbestos - 0•5
ATF - 1•2
Automatic transmission- 1•11, 1•17,
2A•24, 2B•3, 2B•4, 6•11, 7B•1et seq,
12•11
Automatic transmission fault finding -
REF•10
Automatic transmission fluid - 1•2
Auxiliary drivebelt - 1•13
Auxiliary warning system - 12•17
B
B pillar trim - 11•20
Backfire - REF•8
Backrest - 11•18
Battery - 0•5, 1•8, 1•11, 5•2, 5•3
Battery fault - REF•12
Big-end bearings - 2B•18, 2B•21
Bleeding brakes - 9•12
Bleeding power steering - 10•21
Blower/air conditioning control - 3•8Body corrosion - 0•10
Body electrical system- 12•1et seq
Bodywork and fittings- 11•1et seq
Bonnet - 1•20, 11•5, 11•6
Booster battery (jump) starting - 0•12
Boot - 11•14, 11•15
Brake check - 1•19
Brake fluid - 1•2, 1•8, 1•26
Brake line check - 1•19
Braking system- 0•7, 0•8, 0•9, 1•20, 9•1et
seq
Braking system fault finding - REF•10
Brush renewal - 5•8
Bulb failure module - 12•18
Bulbs - 12•8, 12•11, 12•18
Bumpers - 11•4, 11•5
Burning - 0•5
C
C pillar trim - 11•20, 11•21
Cables - 4•4, 7B•2, 8•2, 9•16, 11•6, 12•15
Calipers - 9•4, 9•9
Camshaft - 2A•13, 2A•14, 6•11, 6•12
Cassette player - 12•21
Catalytic converter - 6•19
CD player - 12•22
Central locking system - 11•17
Central locking system fault - REF•12
Centre console - 11•21
Charcoal canister - 6•14
Charging - 1•12, 5•5
Check strap - 11•13
Clock - 12•11, 12•15
Clutch and driveshafts- 1•17, 1•20, 8•1et
seq
Clutch fault finding - REF•9
CO emissions (mixture) - 0•10
Coil spring - 10•15
Compact disc player - 12•22
Compression test - 2A•5
Compressor - 3•9
Condenser - 3•9
Connecting rods - 2B•12, 2B•17, 2B•21,
2B•22
Console - 11•21, 11•22
Contents - 0•2
Conversion factors - 0•14Coolant - 1•2, 1•6, 1•7, 1•21
Coolant leakage - REF•9
Coolant low level switch - 3•5
Coolant temperature gauge sender - 3•4
Coolant temperature sensor - 3•5, 6•11,
6•13
Coolant warning switch - 12•18
Cooling, heating, and air conditioning
systems- 1•22, 3•1et seq
Cooling, heating, and air conditioning
systems fault finding - REF•8
Corrosion - REF•9
Courtesy light - 12•8
Crankcase - 2B•13
Crankshaft - 2A•9, 2A•13, 2A•22, 2B•13,
2B•18, 2B•20, 5•4, 6•10, 6•11, 6•12
Crossmember - 10•13, 10•17
Cruise control system - 12•19
Crushing - 0•5
Cushion - 11•18
CV joints - 1•18, 8•7, 8•9
Cylinder block - 2B•13
Cylinder head - 2A•6, 2A•17, 2B•9, 2B•10,
2B•11, 6•19
D
D pillar trim - 11•21
Damping switch - 12•8
Dehydrator - 3•9
Dents in bodywork - 11•3
Depressurisation - 4•2
Diagnosis system - 6•4
Differential - 7A•2, 7B•3
Dimensions - 0•6
Dipped beam switch - 12•7
Direction indicators - 12•7, 12•9, 12•12
Discs - 1•19, 9•5, 9•10
Display warning bulb - 12•18
Doors - 0•8, 1•20, 11•6, 11•7, 11•8, 11•9,
11•10, 11•11, 11•13, 12•7, 12•8, 12•11,
12•18
Drivebelts - 1•13
Driveplate - 2A•24
Driveshafts - 0•9, 1•18, 8•5, 8•6, 8•7, 8•9,
8•10
Driveshafts fault finding - REF•10
Drivetrain - 1•20
Drums - 1•19, 9•6 Note: References throughout this index relate to Chapter•page number
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