brake fluid FORD MUSTANG 1969 Volume One Chassis
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Page 59 of 413

02-02-40
Brake System
02-02-40
RETAINER - 2B245
PRIMARY PISTON
ASSEMBLY-2169
GASKET-2167
RETURN SPRING
RETAINER
\ CUP
\\PROTECTOR
^\i # PISTON
fNOT SERVICED
* REPLACE AS
ASSEMBLY ONLY
*O-RING
PUMPING CUP
tVALVE
2175
SECONDARY
BRAKE SYSTEM
OUTLET
*SECONDARY PISTON
ASSEMBLY-2A502
H 1550-B
FIG. 41—Dual Master Cylinder Disassembled—Disc Brakes
check valve springs from the master
cylinder body.
open and free of foreign matter. Use
an air hose to blow out dirt and clean-
ing solvent. Place all parts on a clean
pan or paper.
3.
Inspect the master cylinder bore
for signs of etching, pitting, scoring or
rust. If it is necessary to hone the
master cylinder bore to repair dam-
age,
do not exceed allowable hone
specifications.
ASSEMBLY
1.
Dip all parts except the master
cylinder body in clean Rotunda Extra
Heavy Duty Brake Fluid.
2.
Carefully insert the complete
secondary piston and return spring as-
sembly in the master cylinder bore.
3.
Install the primary piston assem-
bly in the master cylinder bore.
4.
Depress the primary piston and
install the snap ring in the cylinder
bore groove.
5.
Install the push rod, boot and re-
tainer on the push rod, if so equipped.
Install the push rod assembly into the
primary piston. Make sure the retain-
er is properly seated and holding the
push rod securely.
6. Position the inner end of the
push rod boot (if so equipped) in the
master cylinder body retaining groove.
7.
Install the secondary piston stop
INSPECTION AND REPAIR
1.
Clean all parts in clean isopropyl
alcohol, and inspect the parts for
chipping, excessive wear or damage.
When using a master cylinder repair
kit, install all the parts supplied.
2.
Check all recesses, openings and
internal passages to be sure they are
Snap Ring Pliers
SNAP RING
H1477-C
FIG. 42—Removing Snap
Ring—Typical
INNER BRAKE
SHOE AND LINING
ASSEMBLY-2019
OUTER SHOE
RETAINING CLIPS
2066
STABILIZER
2B295
LOCATING PIN
2B296
ANCHOR PLATE
2B293(L.H.)
2B292 (R.H.)
MOVABLE CALIPER
2B119(L.H.)
2B118(R.H.)
H 1573-C
FIG. 43—Caliper Assembly—Disassembled-
All Models Except Lincoln Continentalprocarmanuals.com
Page 60 of 413

02-02-41
Brake System
02-02-41
bolt and G-ring in the bottom of the
master cylinder.
8. Install the bleed screw (if so
equipped). Install the gasket (dia-
phragm) in the master cylinder filler
cover. Position the gasket as shown in
Figs.
40 and 41. Make sure the gasket
is securely seated.
9. Install the cover and gasket on
the master cylinder and secure the
cover into position with the retainer.
DISC BRAKE CALIPER
ALL MODELS EXCEPT
LINCOLN CONTINENTAL
Disassembly
1.
Remove the caliper assembly
from the vehicle as outlined in Section
2.
2.
Remove the caliper locating pins
from the caliper assembly and lift the
anchor plate from the caliper.
3.
Slide the two outer shoe retain-
ing clips off the retaining pins (Fig.
43).
4.
Remove the two retaining pins,
then remove the outer brake shoe
from the caliper.
5.
Slide the inner brake shoe out-
ward until it is free of the hold-down
springs, then remove the brake shoe.
6. Apply air pressure to the fluid
port in the caliper with a rubber
tipped nozzle (Tool 7000-DD) as
shown in Fig. 44 to remove the piston.
Place a cloth over the piston before
applying air pressure to prevent dam-
age to the piston. If the piston is
seized and cannot be forced from the
FIBER
BLOCK
CALIPER
PISTON
H 1574-B
FIG. 44 —Removing Piston From
Caliper —
All
Models Except
Lincoln Continental
caliper, tap lightly around the piston
while applying air pressure. Care
should be taken because the piston
can develop considerable force due to
pressure build-up.
7.
Remove the dust boot from the
caliper assembly.
8. Remove the rubber piston seal
from the cylinder and discard it.
Cleaning and Inspection
Clean all metal parts with isopropyl
alcohol or a suitable solvent. Use
clean, dry, compressed air to clean out
and dry the grooves and passage ways.
Be sure that the caliper bore and com-
ponent parts are completely free of
any foreign material.
Check the cylinder bore and piston
for damage or excessive wear. Replace
the piston if it is pitted, scored, or the
chrome plating is worn off.
Assembly
1.
Apply a film of clean brake fluid
to the new caliper piston seal and in-
stall it in the cylinder bore. Be sure
the seal does not become twisted and
that it is seated fully in the groove.
2.
Install a new dust boot by setting
the flange squarely in the outer groove
of the caliper bore.
3.
Coat the piston with the speci-
fied fluid and install the piston in the
cylinder bore. Spread the dust boot
over the piston as it is installed. Seat
the dust boot in the piston groove.
4.
Position the inner brake shoe so
that the ears of the shoe rests on the
top of the anchor plate bosses and be-
neath the hold-down springs.
5.
Install new caliper locating pin
insulators in the anchor plate.
6. Position the caliper on the an-
chor plate.
7.
Apply water or isopropyl alcohol
to the caliper locating pins and install
them loosely in the anchor plate. Be
sure the guide pins are free of oil,
grease or dirt.
8. Install the caliper on the spindle
as outlined under Disc Brake Caliper
Assembly.
LINCOLN CONTINENTAL
Disassembly
Do not remove the bridge bolts that
hold the two halves of the caliper to-
gether. The two caliper housings are
shown separated in Fig. 46 for illus-
tration purposes only.
1.
Remove the caliper assembly
from the car as outlined in Section 2.
2.
Remove the two attaching bolts
and the caliper splash shield (Fig. 46).
3.
Remove the two shoe and lining
assemblies.
4.
Remove the flexible brake hose
from the caliper.
5.
Remove the external transfer
tube.
6. Remove the four dust boots from
the caliper housings and piston
grooves.
7.
Clamp the caliper in a vise and
secure it by the mounting flanges on
the inboard housing (Fig. 45).
8. Remove the four pistons from
the cylinder bores with the special tool
shown in Fig. 45. To prevent cocking
with consequent damage to the piston
or bore, rotate the piston with the tool
while pulling it outward at the same
time.
Be careful to avoid scratching or
damaging the outside diameter surface
or dust boot retaining groove of the
piston. Such damage causes poor seal-
ing.
If a piston is so completely seized in
the cylinder bore that it can not be re-
moved with the special tool, the cali-
per housing must be replaced, by posi-
tioning two screwdrivers in the piston
dust boot retaining groove and prying
outward. To prevent cocking, tap the
end of the piston lightly around the
circumference with a hammer, while
the prying force is being applied. Be
careful to avoid damaging the dust
boot retainer in the caliper housing
(Fig. 46). If this method of removal is
used, the pistons must be replaced.
If the caliper dust boot retainer or
retaining groove is damaged or
scratched, pry the retainer out of the
caliper housing with screwdrivers.
Too/-T65P-2
J
18- A
H 1652-A
FIG. 45—Removing or Installing
Pistons —
Lincoln
Continentalprocarmanuals.com
Page 61 of 413

02-02-42
Brake System
02-02-42
CALIPER
ABUTMENTS
OUTBOARD
CALIPER HOUSING
DUST
BOOT RETAINING GROOVE
DUST
BOOT (4)
PISTON
SEAL (4)
EXTERNAL
TRANSFER
TUBE
SCREW
INBOARD
CALIPER HOUSING
FLEXIBLE
HOSE-^
H1367-C
FIG. 46—Caliper Assembly — Disassembled—Lincoln Continental
9. Remove the rubber piston seals
from the grooves in the cylinder bores
by carefully inserting the point of a
small knife or other pointed instru-
ment under the seal and raising the
seal up far enough to be pulled out
with the fingers.
Cleaning and Inspection
Clean all metal parts with isopropyl
alcohol or a suitable solvent (Fig. 46).
Use clean, dry, compressed air to
clean out and dry the grooves and
passage ways. Be sure that the caliper
bore and component parts are com-
pletely free of any foreign material.
Check the cylinder bores and pis-
tons for damage or excessive wear.
Replace the piston if it is pitted,
scored, or the chrome plating is worn
off. Check the caliper dust boot re-
tainer for wear or damage.
Assembly
1.
Clamp the caliper in a vise and
secure it by the mounting flange on
the inboard housing.
2.
Apply a film of clean brake fluid
to new caliper piston seals and install
them in the grooves of the cylinder
bore.
The seal should be positioned at
one area in the groove and gently
worked around. Do not use the origi-
nal seals.
3.
Install the new dust boots by set-
ting the flanges squarely in the outer
grooves of the caliper bores.
4.
Coat the pistons with the speci-
fied fluid and install the pistons inPthe
cylinder bores. Spread the dust boots
over the pistons as they are installed.
Seat the dust boots in the piston
grooves.
5.
Coat the outside diameter of the
pistons with brake fluid and install
them in the cylinder bores so that the
open end of the piston and ihe boot
retaining groove face out of the bore.
To avoid cocking, locate the piston
squarely in the bore and apply a slow
steady pressure. If a piston will not
easily go all the way into the bore, re-
move it and thoroughly inspect the
cylinder bore, the piston seal and the
installation of the seal. If the piston
still will not go in with bore in good
condition and the piston seal properly
installed, use the tool shown in Fig.
45.
Rotate the piston with the tool
while pushing it inward at the same
time.
6. Carefully install four new dust
boots on the caliper housings and pis-
tons.
Be sure that each boot is fully
seated in the groove of its respective
caliper housing and piston (Fig. 46).
Do not use the original dust boots.
7.
Install the external transfer tube.
8. Install the flexible brake hose to
the caliper.
9. Install the caliper assembly on
the spindle, and install the shoe and
lining assemblies and the splash shield
as outlined in Section 2. Check the
caliper for fluid leaks under maximum
pedal pressures. Do not move the car
until a firm brake pedal is obtained.procarmanuals.com
Page 64 of 413

02-03-03
Specifications
02-03-03
ROTOR REFINISH
The following requirements must be met when resurfacing disc
brake rotors:
Rotunda Disc Brake Attachment FRE-2249-2 is the only approv-
ed tool to be used to ref inish the disc brake rotors. The step-by-
step resurfacing procedure provided with the tool must be adhered
t0" The finished braking surfaces of the rotor must be flat and
parallel within 0.0007
inch;
lateral runout must not exceed 0.003
inch total indicator reading, and the surface finish of the braking
surfaces are to be 15-80 micro inches.
On all models except Lincoln Continental the limiting dimen-
sion from the inner bearing cup to the inner rotor face must be
measured with a ball and gage bar (Rotunda FRE-70160).
On Lincoln Continental models the limiting dimension from the
inboard bearing cup to the inboard rotor face of 0.755 inch
mini-
mum and from the inboard bearing cup to the outboard rotor face
of 0.395 inch minimum must be observed.
TORQUE LIMITS -GENERAL -FT-LBS.
Parking Brake Control Assembly
Mounting Nuts and Bolts
Master Cylinder to Dash Panel Screw
Master Cylinder to Booster
Booster to Dash Panel
Disc Brake Caliper to Spindle Bolts
Disc Brake Rotor Splash Shield
to Spindle
Brake Hose to Caliper Connection Bolt
Caliper Locating Pins
Caliper Stabilizer to Anchor Plate
Bolt
Caliper Brake Shoe Clips
Caliper Bleeder Screws
Wheel Cylinder to Backing Plate Screws
Wheel Cylinder & Backing Plate
Anchor Pin Nut
Rear Brake Backing Plate to Axle
Housing:
Removable Carrier
Integral Type
Front Brake Backing Plate to Spindle
Wheel Cylinder Bleeder Screw
Brake Hose Connection to Front
Wheel Cylinder
Brake Line Connection to Rear Axle
Housing:
Removable Carrier
Integral Type
Hydraulic Tube Connections ®
3/8 x 24
7/16 x 24
1/2 x 20
9/16 x 18
Wheel to Hub and Drum or Hub and
Rotor Nuts
Ford-Mercury
Meteor
Cap Screw
12-19
Nuts 7-11
13-20
13-?0
13-20
Upper ©
110-140
Lower
90-120
9-14
17-25
25-35
8-11
6-10
6-15
10-20
20-30
50-70
IPo
25-40
6-15
12-20
30-40
25-35
10-15
10-15
10-17
10-17
70-115
Fair
lane-
Montego
Falcon
12-25
13-20
13-20
13-20
Upper CD
100-140
Lower
55-75
9-14
17-25
25-35
8-11
6-10
6-15
10 in. Brake
10-20
9 in. Brake
5-7
50-70
20-40
28-35
32-65 ®
Inch-lb.
12-20
12-19
12-19
10-15
10-15
10-17
10-17
4 lug
55-85
5 lug
70-115
Mustang-
Cougar
12-25
13-20
13-20
13-20
Upper ©
100-140
Lower
55-75
9-14
17-25
25-35
8-11
6-10
6-15
10 in. Brake
10-20
9 in. Brake
5-7
50-70
20-40
28-35
32-65 ®
Inch-lb.
12-20
12-19
12-19
10-15
10-15
10-17
10-17
4 lug
55-85
5 lug
70-115
Thunderbird
Continental
Mark III
1218
13-20
13-20
Upper ©
110-140
Lower
90-120
9-14
17-25
25-35
8-11
6-10
6-15
10-20
50-70
6-15
30-40
10-15
10-15
10-17
10-17
70-115
Lincoln
Continental
Dash Panel
10-20
Inst. Panel
712
13-20
13-20
100-140
9-14
7-9
6-15
10-20
30-35
6-15
10-15
10-15
10-17
10-17
70-115
® The upper bolt must be tightened first.
® On front disc brake calipers 6-15 ft-lbs.
® All hydraulic lines must be tightened to the specified torque value and be free of fluid leakage.procarmanuals.com
Page 67 of 413

03-01-02
Suspension — Steering, Wheels And Tires — General Service
03-01-02
1 TESTING
POWER STEERING-
PRELIMINARY TESTS
The following preliminary checks
should always be made before per-
forming any operations.
AIR BLEEDING
Air in the power steering system
(shown by bubbles in the fluid) should
be bled. After making sure that the
reservoir is filled to specification (the
fluid must be at normal operating
temperature when the check is made),
turn the steering wheel through its full
travel three or four times. Do not hold
the wheels against their stops. Re-
check the fluid level.
CHECK FLUID LEVEL
Run the engine until the fluid is at
normal operating temperature. Then
turn the steering wheel all the way to
the left and right several times, and
shut off the engine.
Check the fluid level in the power
steering reservoir. The level must show
on the cross hatching between the bot-
tom of the dipstick and the full mark
(Fig. 1). If the level is low, add
enough automatic transmission fluid
C1AZ-19582-A to raise the level to
the F mark on the dipstick. Do not
overfill the reservoir.
CHECK PUMP BELT
If the pump belt is broken, glazed,
or worn, replace it with a new belt.
Use only the specified type of belt.
Refer to Part 3-13 for belt adjustment
procedure.
CHECK FOR FLUID
LEAKS
With the engine idling, turn the
steering wheel from stop to stop sever-
al times. Check all possible leakage
points. Tighten all loose fittings, and
replace any damaged lines or defective
seats.
CHECK TURNING EFFORT
With the front wheels properly al-
igned and tire pressures correct, check
the effort required to turn the steering
wheel.
G 1508- A
FIG.
1—Power
Steering Pump
Dipstick
1.
With the vehicle on dry concrete,
set the parking brakes.
2.
With the engine warmed up and
running at idle speed, turn the steering
wheel to the left and right several
times to warm the fluid.
3.
Attach a pull scale to the rim of
the steering wheel. Measure the pull
required to turn the wheel one com-
plete revolution in each direction. The
effort required to rotate the steering
wheel should not exceed specifications
given in Part 3-13.
POWER STEERING PUMP FLOW
AND PRESSURE TESTS—
EXCEPT LINCOLN CONTINENTAL
AND CONTINENTAL MARK III
The power steering flow and pres-
sure tests will show whether the pump,
steering gear or power assist control
RETURN LINE
POWER
STEERING PUMP
Sr
valve is causing the trouble. Steps out-
lined below should be followed to de-
termine the cause of the trouble.
PUMP FLOW TEST
1.
Depending on the equipment
present on the vehicle (air condition-
ing, power brakes, standard transmis-
sion),
one of the following options
may be used to connect the pump
pressure and return hoses to the test
tool (T56L-3361O-D and T68L-
33610-A):
a. Disconnect the pressure and re-
turn lines at the power steering pump
(Fig. 2). Obtain a power steering re-
turn hose from stock and connect the
end with the fitting to the output fit-
ting of the tool using the
5/8-18
SAE
female, 1/4 N.P. thread male fitting
provided. The end of the stock hose
(without the fitting) should be con-
nected to the return tube of the pump.
Connect the pressure hose from the
tool to the outlet fitting of the pump.
b.
Disconnect the pressure line at
the pump and connect the pressure
line from the test tool to the outlet fit-
ting of the pump. Disconnect the re-
turn line at the gear and connect it to
the output fitting of the tool, using the
5/8-18
SAE female, 1/4 N.P. thread
male fitting provided.
2.
After installing the lines by the
most advantageous method, proceed
as follows:
3.
Open the manual valves A and B
fully (Fig. 2).
CALIBRATED FLOW
DETERMINING ORIFICE
PRESSURE LINE
FIG. 2—Power Steering Pump Test Circuit Diagram
PRESSURE GAGE
G1611-Aprocarmanuals.com
Page 201 of 413

04-02-04
Rear Axle — Removable Carrier Type
04-02-04
IN-VEHICLE ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS
REAR AXLE SHAFT, WHEEL
BEARING AND OIL SEAL
REPLACEMENT
The rear axle shafts, wheel bear-
ings,
and oil seal can be replaced
without removing the differential as-
sembly from the axle housing.
REMOVAL OF
AXLE SHAFT
Synthetic wheel bearing seals are
used in production only. Removal and
insertion of rear axle shafts must be
performed with caution. The entire
length of the shaft (including spline)
up to the seal journal must pass
through the seal without cutting of the
seal element during axle removal or
installation will result in early seal fai-
lure.
Leather seals only will be used as
service replacement for synthetic
wheel bearing seals.
1.
Remove the wheel cover, wheel
and tire from the brake drum.
2.
Remove the nuts that secure the
brake drum to the axle shaft flange,
then remove the drum from flange.
3.
Working through the hole pro-
vided in each axle shaft flange, re-
move the nuts that secure the wheel
bearing retainer plate. Then pull the
axle shaft assembly out of the axle
housing (Fig. 4). The brake backing
plate must not be dislodged. Install
one nut to hold the plate in place after
the axle shaft is removed.
Too/-4235-C
E1032-D
FIG. 4—Removing Axle Shaft
REMOVAL OF REAR
WHEEL BEARING AND
SEAL
Synthetic seals must not be cleaned,
soaked or washed in cleaning solvents.
Removal of the wheel bearings from
the axle shaft makes them unfit for
further use.
1.
On all models except Ford, Mer-
cury or Meteor, if the rear wheel
bearing is to be replaced, loosen the
inner retainer ring by nicking it deeply
with a cold chisel in several places
(Fig. 5). It will then slide off easily.
E 1731-A
FIG. 5—Removing Rear Wheel
Bearing Retainer Ring
On Ford, Mercury and Meteor mo-
dels,
it is necessary to first drill a 1/4
inch hole not more than 5/16 inch
deep in the retainer ring surface bef-
ore using the cold chisel.
2.
Remove the bearing from the
axle shaft with the tool shown in Fig.
6 or Fig. 7.
3.
Whenever a rear axle shaft is re-
placed, the oil seal must be replaced.
Remove the seal with Tool 1175-AB
and a slide hammer (Fig. 8). If new
leather-type wheel bearing service
seals are to be installed, soak new oil
seals in SAE 10 oil for 1/2 hour
before installing.
INSTALLATION OF REAR
WHEEL BEARING AND
SEAL
1.
Inspect the machined surface of
the axle shaft and the axle housing for
rough spots or other irregularities
which would affect the sealing action
of the oil seal. Check the axle shaft
splines for burrs, wear or twist. Care-
fully remove any burrs or rough spots.
Replace worn or damaged parts.
2.
Lightly coat wheel bearing bores
with axle lubricant.
3.
Place the retainer plate on the
axle shaft, and press the new wheel
bearing on the shaft with the tool
shown in Fig. 6 or Fig. 9. Do not at-
tempt to press on both the bearing
and the inner retainer ring at the same
time.
4.
Using the bearing installation
tool (Tool 4621-A or 4234-4), press
the bearing inner retainer ring on the
shaft until the retainer seats firmly
against the bearing. On Ford, Mercu-
ry, or Meteor models, before assem-
bling the retainer onto the axle shaft,
the shaft journal and the inside di-
ameter of the retainer should be wiped
clean with a dry cloth. These parts
must not be degreased or lubricated.
5. Rear wheel oil seals with synthe-
tic sealing elements have been incor-
porated in production only. However,
leather seals only will be used as re-
placements for the synthetic sealing
elements. Install the new oil seal with
the tools shown in Figs. 10 and 12. Be
sure the new seal has been soaked in
SAE 10 oil for 1/2 hour before in-
stalling it. Wipe a small amount of oil
resistant sealer on the outer edge of
the seal before it is installed. Do not
put sealer on the sealing lip.
INSTALLATION OF
AXLE SHAFT
1.
Carefully slide the axle shaft into
the housing so that the rough forging
of the shaft will not damage the oil
seal. Start the axle splines into the
side gear, and push the shaft in until
the bearing bottoms in the housing.
2.
Install the bearing retainer plate
and the nuts that secure it. Torque the
nuts to specifications.
3.
Install the brake drum and the
drum attaching (Tinnerman) nuts.
4.
Install the wheel and tire on the
drum. Install the wheel cover.
DRIVE PINION OIL SEAL
REPLACEMENT
COLLAPSIBLE SPACER
Synthetic seals must not be cleaned,
soaked or washed in cleaning solvent.
The drive pinion oil seal can be re-
placed without removing the differen-
tial carrier assembly from the axle
housing.
1.
Raise the vehicle and install
safety stands. Remove both rear wheels
and brake drums.
2.
Make scribe marks on the drive
shaft end yoke and the axle U-joint
flange to insure proper position of the
drive shaft at assembly (Fig. 11). Dis-
connect the drive shaft from the axle
U-joint flange. Be careful to avoid
dropping the loose universal joint
bearing cups. Hold the cups on the
spider with tape. Mark the cups so
that they will be in their original posi-
tion in relation to the flange when
they are assembled. Remove the drive
shaft from the transmission extension
housing. Install an oil seal replacer
tool in the transmission extension
housing to prevent transmission fluidprocarmanuals.com
Page 204 of 413

04-02-07
Rear Axle — Removable Carrier Type
04-02-07
burrs are evident, remove them with a
fine crocus cloth, working in a rota-
tional motion, then wipe clean. Apply
a small quantity of lubricant to U-
joint splines.
9. Install the U-joint flange using
the tool shown in Fig. 46.
10.
Install a new integral attaching
nut and washer on the pinion shaft.
11.
Tighten the pinion attaching
nut, rotating the pinion several times
to seat the bearing, then torque the pin-
ion nut to 180-200 ft-lbs. Hold the
flange with the tool shown in Fig. 22
or Fig. 23 while the nut is being tight-
ened.
12.
Remove the oil seal replacer
tool from the transmission extension
housing. Install the front end of the
drive shaft on the transmission output
shaft.
13.
Connect the rear end of the
drive shaft to the axle U-joint flange,
aligning the scribe marks made on the
drive shaft end yoke and the axle U-
joint flange.
14.
Check the lubricant level, and
add whatever amount of specified lu-
bricant is necessary to reach the lower
edge of the filler plug hole. Make sure
the axle is in running position when
the level is checked
ORIGINAL U-JOINT FLANGE
(IN VEHICLE REPLACEMENT)
Use procedure as outlined under
Drive Pinion Oil Seal Replacement.
Synthetic seals must not be cleaned,
soaked or washed in cleaning solvent.
INSTALLATION OF A NEW
UNIVERSAL JOINT FLANGE
COLLAPSIBLE SPACER
1.
Raise the vehicle and install
safety stands. Remove both rear wheels
and brake drums.
2.
Disconnect the drive shaft from
the axle U-joint flange. Be careful to
avoid dropping the loose universal
joint bearing cups. Hold the cups on
the spider with tape. Mark the cups so
that they will be in their original posi-
tion in relation to the flange when
they are assembled. Remove the drive
shaft from the transmission extension
housing. Install an oil seal replacer
tool in the transmission extension
housing to prevent transmission fluid
leakage. Refer to the transmission
group for the appropriate tool.
3.
Install an in-lb torque wrench on
the pinion nut. Record the torque re-
quired to maintain rotation of the pin-
ion shaft through several revolutions.
4.
While holding the flange with the
tool shown in Fig. 23 or Fig. 24, re-
move the integral pinion nut and
washer.
5.
Clean the pinion bearing retainer
around the oil seal. Place a drain pan
under the seal, or raise the front of
the vehicle higher than the rear. Syn-
thetic seals must not be cleaned,
soaked or washed in cleaning solvent.
6. Using the tool shown in Fig. 23
or Fig. 24, remove the U-joint flange.
7.
Check splines on the pinion shaft
to be sure they are free of burrs. If
burrs are evident, remove them by
using a fine crocus cloth, working in a
rotational motion, then wipe clean.
Apply a small amount of lubricant
to U-joint splines.
8. Install the U-joint flange using
the tool shown in Fig. 46.
9. Install a new integral nut and
washer on the pinion shaft. (Apply a
small amount of lubricant on the
washer side of the nut.)
10.
Hold the flange with the tool
shown in Fig. 23 or Fig. 24 while the
nut is being tightened.
11.
Tighten the pinion shaft nut,
rotating the pinion occasionally to in-
sure proper bearing seating, and take
frequent preload readings until the
preload is at the original recorded
reading established in step 3.
12.
After original preload has been
reached, tighten the pinion nut slowly,
until an additional preload of 8 to 14
in-lb over the original reading is
reached. (The preload should not ex-
ceed 8 to 14 in-lb over the original
reading, or bearing failure may result.
Under no circumstances should the
pinion nut be backed off to lessen pre-
load. If this is done, a new pinion
bearing spacer must be installed. In
addition, the U-joint flange must
never be hammered on, or power tools
used.
13.
Remove the oil seal replacer
tool from the transmission extension
housing. Install the front end of the
drive shaft on the transmission output
shaft.
14.
Connect the rear end of the
drive shaft to the axle U-joint flange,
aligning the scribe marks made on the
drive shaft end yoke and the axle U-
joint flange.
15.
Check the lubricant level. Make
sure the axle is in running position.
Add whatever amount of specified lu-
bricant is required to reach the lower
edge of the filler plug hole.
SOLID SPACER
1.
Disconnect the drive shaft from
the axle U-joint flange. Be careful to
avoid dropping the loose universal
joint bearing cups. Hold the cups on
the spider with tape. Mark the cups so
that they will be in their original posi-
tion in relation to the flange when
they are assembled. Remove the drive
shaft from the transmission extension
housing. Install an oil seal replacer
tool in the transmission extension
housing to prevent transmission leak-
age.
Refer to the transmission group
for the appropriate tool.
2.
While holding the flange with the
tool shown in Fig. 23 or Fig. 24, re-
move the integral pinion nut and
washer.
3.
Clean the pinion bearing retainer
around the oil seal. Place a drain pan
under the seal, or raise the front of
the vehicle higher than the rear.
4.
Using the tool shown in Fig. 23
or Fig. 24, remove the U-joint flange.
5.
Check splines on the pinion shaft
to be sure they are free of burrs. If
burrs are evident, remove them by
using a fine crocus cloth, working in a
rotational motion, then wipe clean.
Apply a small amount of lubricant to
U-joint splines.
6. Install the U-joint flange using
the tool shown in Fig. 46.
7.
Install integral attaching nut and
washer on the pinion shaft.
8. Tighten the pinion attaching nut,
rotating the pinion several times to
seat the bearing, then torque the pin-
ion attaching nut to 180-220 ft-lbs.
Hold the flange with the tool shown in
Fig. 23 or Fig. 24 while the nut is
being tightened.
9. Remove the oil seal replacer tool
from the transmission extension hous-
ing. Install the front end of the drive
shaft on the transmission output shaft.
10.
Connect the rear end of the
drive shaft to the axle U-joint flange.
11.
Check the lubricant level, and
add whatever amount of specified lu-
bricant is necessary to reach the lower
edge of the filler plug hole. Make sure
the axle is in running position when
the level is checked.
DRIVE SHAFT PINION ANGLE
ADJUSTMENT
Refer to Group 3, Part 3-2 for this
procedure.procarmanuals.com
Page 225 of 413

04-03-05
Rear Axles — Integral Carrier Type
04-03-05
6. Using the tool shown in Fig. 10,
remove the pinion U-joint flange.
7.
Using the tool shown in Fig. 7,
remove the drive pinion oil seal.
8. Clean the oil seal seat.
9. Pinion oil seals have pre-applied
oil resistant sealer. Install the seal in
the retainer using the tool shown in
Fig. 11.
10.
Check splines on the pinion
shaft to be sure they are free of burrs.
If burrs are evident, remove them by
using a fine crocus cloth, working in a
rotational motion. Wipe the pinion
shaft clean.
11.
Apply a small amount of lubri-
cant to the U-joint splines.
12.
Align the punch mark on the
U-joint flange with the mark on the
end of the pinion shaft, and install the
flange.
13.
Install a new integral nut and
washer on the pinion shaft. (Apply a
small amount of lubricant on the
washer side of the nut.)
14.
Hold the flange with the tool
shown in Fig. 9 while tightening the
nut.
15.
Tighten the pinion shaft nut,
rotating the pinion occasionally to in-
sure proper bearing seating, and take
frequent preload readings (Fig. 6)
until the preload is at the original rec-
orded reading established in step 3.
16.
After original preload has been
reached, tighten the pinion nut slowly,
until an additional preload of 6 to 12
in-lbs has been added.
The preload should not exceed the
amount indicated above, or bearing
failure may result. Under no circum-
stances should the pinion nut be
backed-off to lessen preload. If this is
done, a new pinion bearing spacer
must be installed. In addition, the U-
joint flange must never be hammered
on, or power tools used.
17.
Remove the oil seal replacer
tool from the transmission extension
housing. Install the front end of the
drive shaft on the transmission output
shaft.
18.
Connect the rear end of the
drive shaft to the axle U-joint flange,
aligning the punch marks made on the
drive shaft end yoke and the axle U-
joint flange (Fig. 14).
19.
Check the lubricant level. Make
sure the axle is in running position.
Add whatever amount of specified lu-
bricant is required to reach the lower
edge of the filler plug hole, located in
the carrier casting or the housing
cover.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
OF THE ORIGINAL U-JOINT
FLANGE
Use procedure as outlined under
drive pinion oil seal replacement.
Tool-T53T-4857-A
or
4851 -A
E1223-B
FIG. 10—Typical Drive Pinion
Flange Removal
El 906A
Tool-T55P-4676-A
or 4676-G
E1907A
INSTALLATION OF A NEW
UNIVERSAL JOINT FLANGE
1.
Raise the vehicle and install safe-
ty stands. Remove both rear wheels
and brake drums.
2.
Disconnect the drive shaft from
the axle U-joint flange. Be careful to
avoid dropping the loose universal
joint bearing cups. Hold the cups on
the spider with tape. Mark the cups so
that they will be in their original posi-
tion in relation to the flange when
they are assembled. Remove the drive
shaft from the transmission extension
housing. Install an oil seal replacer
tool in the transmission extension
housing to prevent transmission fluid
leakage. Refer to the transmission
group for the appropriate tool.
3.
Install an in-lb torque wrench on
the pinion nut Fig. 6. Record the tor-
que required to maintain rotation of
the pinion shaft through several revo-
lutions.
4.
While holding the flange with the
tool shown in Fig. 9, remove the inte-
gral pinion nut and washer.
5.
Clean the pinion bearing retainer
around the oil seal. Place a drain pan
under the seal, or raise the front of
the vehicle higher than the rear. Syn-
thetic seals must not be cleaned,
soaked or washed in cleaning solvents.
6. Using the tool shown in Fig. 10,
remove the U-joint flange.
7.
Check splines on the pinion shaft
to be sure they are free of burrs. If
burrs are evident, remove them by
using a fine crocus cloth, working in
rotational motion, then wipe clean.
Apply a small amount of lubricant
to U-joint splines.
8. Install the U-joint flange using
the tool shown in Fig. 12.
FIG. 9—Removing or Installing
Drive Pinion Nut
FIG.
11
— Typical Drive Pinion
Flange Seal Installation
FIG. 12—U-Joint Flange
Installationprocarmanuals.com
Page 294 of 413

07-01-03
General Transmission Service
07-01-03
COMPONENT INDEX
FMX Transmission
REAR SUPPORT (FMX)
Inspection
SHIFT POINT CHECKS
STATOR ONE-WAY CLUTCH CHECK
STATOR TO IMPELLOR INTERFERENCE
CHECK
STATOR TO TURBINE INTERFERENCE
CHECK
TRANSMISSION CLEANING
TURBINE AND STATOR END PLAY
CHECK
VACUUM DIAPHRAGM ADJUSTMENT
Altitude Compensating Type
Non-Altitude Compensating Type
VACUUM UNIT CHECK
Altitude Compensating Type
Non-Altitude Compensating Type
MODEL APPLICATION
All
Models
01-06
01-12
01-12
01-12
01-11
01-12
Ford
01-17
01-16
N/A
01-08
N/A
01-05
Mercury
N/A
N/A
N/A
01-08
N/A
01-05
Meteor
01-17
01-16
N/A
01-08
N/A
01-05
Cougar
01-17
01-16
N/A
01-08
N/A
01-05
Fairlane
01-17
01-16
N/A
01-08
N/A
01-05
Falcon
N/A
N/A
N/A
01-08
N/A
01-05
Montego
01-17
01-16
N/A
01-08
N/A
01-05
Mustang
01-17
01-16
N/A
01-08
N/A
01-05
Lincoln-
Continental
N/A
N/A
01-09
N/A
01-06
N/A
Thunderbird
N/A
N/A
01-09
N/A
01-06
N/A
Continental-
Mark
III
N/A
N/A
01-09
N/A
01-06
N/A
A page number indicates that the item is for the vehicle listed at the head of the column.
N/A indicates that the item is not applicable to the vehicle listed.
Three different three-speed trans-
missions are used. The C4 Automatic,
C6 Automatic and the FMX Auto-
matic. Part 7-1 covers testing, com-
mon adjustments and repairs, and
cleaning and inspection for the three
types of transmissions. Where there
are differences in procedures or speci-
fications, the type of transmission af-
fected will be designated.
l
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION TESTS
When diagnosing transmission
problems, refer to the Ford Car and
Truck Diagnosis Manual for the de-
tailed information on the items that
could be causing the problem.
The following preliminary checks
should be made before proceeding
with other diagnosis checks.
TRANSMISSION FLUID LEVEL
CHECK
1.
Make sure that the vehicle is
standing level. Then firmly apply the
parking brake.
2.
Run the engine at normal idle
speed. If the transmission fluid is cold
run the engine at fast idle speed
(about 1200 rpm) until the fluid reach-
es its normal operating temperature.
When the fluid is warm, slow the en-
gine down to normal idle speed.
3.
On a vehicle equipped with a
vacuum brake release, disconnect the
release line and plug the end of the
line;
otherwise the parking brake will
not hold the transmission in any drive
position.
4.
Shift the selector lever through
all positions, and place the lever at P.
Do not turn off the engine during the
fluid level checks.
5.
Clean all dirt from the transmis-
sion fluid dipstick cap before remov-
ing the dipstick from the filler tube.
6. Pull the dipstick out of the tube,
wipe it clean, and push it all the way
back into the tube. Be sure it is prop-
erly seated.
7.
Pull the dipstick out of the tube
again, and check the fluid level. The
fluid level should be above the ADD
mark. If necessary, add enough fluid
to the transmission through the filler
tube to bring the level between the
ADD and FULL marks on the dip-
stick. Do not overfill the transmission.
Install the dipstick, making sure it is
fully seated in the tube.
8. Connect the vacuum brake re-
lease line if so equipped, and test it
for proper operation.
FLUID AERATION CHECK
A fluid level that is too high will
cause the fluid to become aerated:
Aerated fluid will cause low control
pressure, and the aerated fluid may be
forced out the vent.
Check the transmission fluid level.
Low fluid level can affect the opera-
tion of the transmission, and may in-
dicate fluid leaks that could cause
transmission damage.
TRANSMISSION FLUID
LEAKAGE CHECKS
Check the speedometer cable con-
nection at the transmission. Replace
the rubber seal if necessary.
Leakage at the oil pan gasket often
can be stopped by tightening the at-
procarmanuals.com
Page 319 of 413

07-02-11
C4 Automatic Transmission
07-02-11
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
An oil impregnated plastic grommet
is incorporated in the end of the man-
ual shift linkage lever arm on all col-
umn shift vehicles. A special tool
T67P-7341-A is required to install the
grommet in the manual lever, and to
install the manual linkage rod into the
grommet. Refer to Part 7-1, Section
2,
for the grommet replacement pro-
cedures.
TRANSMISSION REMOVAL
1.
Raise the vehicle and remove the
converter cover attaching bolts, at the
lower front side of the converter hous-
ing. Remove the cover.
2.
Remove the two conveter drain
plugs (Fig. 20). Drain the fluid from
the converter. Install the two convert-
er drain plugs.
3.
Remove the drive shaft and in-
stall the extension housing seal repla-
cer tool in the extension housing.
4.
Remove the vacuum line hose
from the transmission vacuum unit.
Disconnect the vacuum line from the
retaining clip.
5.
Remove the two extension
housing-to-crossmember attaching
bolts.
6. Remove the speedometer cable
from the extension housing.
7.
Disconnect the exhaust pipe
flange from the manifolds.
8. Remove the parking brake cable
from the equalizer lever.
9. Remove the fluid filler tube from
the pan and drain the transmission
fluid on PEA models. On PEB and
PEE models, loosen the transmission
CONVERTER A
ATT,
pan bolts and drain the fluid at one
corner of the pan. Tighten the attach-
ing bolts after the fluid has drained.
10.
Disconnect the fluid cooler lines
from the transmission case.
11.
Remove the manual and kick-
down linkage rods from the transmis-
sion control levers.
On vehicles equipped with a column
shift, use tool T67P-7341-A to remove
the selector rod from the manual
lever.
12.
On a Mustang, disconnect the
neutral start switch wires from the re-
taining clamps and connectors.
13.
Disconnect the starter cable.
Remove the starter attaching bolts
and remove the starter from the con-
verter housing.
14.
On PEB and PEE models, lift
the fluid filler tube from the case.
15.
Remove the four converter-
to-flywheel attaching nuts.
16.
Position the transmission jack
to support the transmission and secure
the transmission to the jack with a
safety chain.
17.
Remove the four crossmember
attaching bolts and lower the
crossmember.
18.
Remove the five converter
housing-to-engine attaching bolts.
Lower the transmission (Fig. 21) and
remove it from under the vehicle.
TRANSMISSION
INSTALLATION
1.
With the converter properly in-
D 2043-A
FIG. 20—Converter Drain Plug
Location
FIG. 21—Transmission Mounted
on Jack
stalled, place the transmission on the
jack (Fig. 21). Secure the transmission
to the jack with the safety chain.
2.
Raise the transmission into posi-
tion and install the five converter
housing-to-engine attaching bolts.
Torque the bolts to specification. Re-
move the safety chain from the trans-
mission.
3.
Position the crossmember and
install the four attaching bolts. Torque
the bolts to specifications.
4.
Lower the transmission and in-
stall the extension housing and
crossmember attaching bolts. Torque
the bolts to specification.
5.
Install the four flywheel to con-
verter attaching nuts. Torque the nuts
to specification.
6. Remove the transmission jack.
Install the fluid filler tube in the
transmission case or pan. Install the
vacuum hose on the transmission vac-
uum unit. Install the vacuum line re-
taining clip.
7.
Connect the fluid cooling lines to
the transmission case.
8. On a Mustang, connect the neu-
tral start switch wires to their respec-
tive connectors and secure the harness
in the retaining clamps.
9. Install the linkage rods on the
transmission downshift and manual
control levers.
On vehicles equipped with a column
shift, use tool T67P-7341-A to install
a new grommet in the manual lever,
and to install the manual linkage rod
into the grommet.
10.
Connect the speedometer cable
to the extension housing.
11.
Connect the exhaust inlet pipes
to the manifolds.
12.
Install and adjust the parking
brake cable at the equalizer lever.
13.
Install the converter housing
cover and torque the attaching bolts
to specification.
14.
Install the starter and torque
the attaching bolts to specification.
Connect the starter cable.
15.
Install the drive shaft. Torque
the companion flange U-bolts attach-
ing nuts to specification.
16.
Lower the vehicle. Fill the
transmission to the proper level with
the specified fluid. Adjust the manual
and downshift linkage.procarmanuals.com