lock FORD SIERRA 1993 2.G Bodywork And Fittings Workshop Manual

Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Front seat belt stalk-to-seat bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 to 28 18 to 22
Seat belt anchor bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 to 41 22 to 30
Seat belt inertia reel securing bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 to 41 22 to 30
Seat mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 to 32 18 to 24
Cab safety grille securing bolts (P100 models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 27 15 to 20
Rear bump stop securing nuts (P100 models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 11 6 to 8
Cargo area-to-chassis bolts (P100 models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 to 50 29 to 37
Tailboard hinge securing screws (P100 models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 25 15 to 18
Chapter 12
Bodywork and fittings
Bonnet - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Bonnet lock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Bonnet lock release cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Boot lid (Saloon models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Boot lid lock (Saloon models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Bumper - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
Bumper trim moulding - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31
Cab air vent panel (P100 models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . .35
Cab interior trim panels (P100 models) - removal and refitting . . . . .42
Cargo area (P100 models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Centre console - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44
Door - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
Door check arm - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
Door exterior handle - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Door inner trim panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Door interior handle - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Door lock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Door lock barrel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Door mirror - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Door window - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
Door window regulator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28
Exterior rear pillar trim panel (Saloon models) - removal and refitting .34
Facia panels - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
Front seat air cushion assembly - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . .49
Fuel filler flap - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1Headlining - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46
Inner gutter weatherstrip (Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models)-
removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38
Interior pillar trim panels - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41
Interior trim panels - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
Maintenance - bodywork, underside and fittings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Maintenance - upholstery and carpets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Major body damage - repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Minor body damage - repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Overhead console - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45
Opening rear quarter window - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Radiator grille panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
Rear seat catch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48
Seats - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47
Seat belts - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50
Sunroof - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39
Tailboard (P100 models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Tailgate/boot lid/fuel filler flap release cable - removal and refitting .14
Tailgate/boot lid spoiler - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Tailgate (Hatchback and Estate models) - removal and refitting . . . .11
Tailgate lock (Hatchback and Estate models) - removal and refitting . .12
Tailgate strut (Hatchback and Estate models) - removal and refitting .13
Wheel arch liners - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
Windscreen cowl panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33
Windscreen, rear window and fixed rear quarter windows - removal
and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
12•1
Specifications Contents
12
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Degrees of difficulty

The model range includes 4-door Saloon, 3
and 5-door Hatchback, 5-door Estate, and 2-
door Pick-up body styles.
Each body is of all-steel welded energy-
absorbing monocoque construction, with a
separate load-bearing rear chassis frame on
P100 Pick-up models. Corrosion protection is
applied to all new vehicles, and includes zinc
phosphate dipping of the body panels, and
wax injection of box sections and doors.
All models have flush direct-glazed fixed glass
panels, and integrated polycarbonate bumpers.
All body panels are welded, including the
front wings, so it is recommended that major
body damage repairs are entrusted to a dealer.
A wide range of interior equipment and trim
options are available depending on model.
The procedures given in this Chapter apply to
original equipment fitments, and do not cover
after-market products.
The general condition of a vehicle’s
bodywork is the one thing that significantly
affects its value. Maintenance is easy but
needs to be regular. Neglect, particularly after
minor damage, can lead quickly to further
deterioration and costly repair bills. It is
important also to keep watch on those parts of
the vehicle not immediately visible, for instance
the underside, inside all the wheel arches and
the lower part of the engine compartment.
The basic maintenance routine for the
bodywork is washing - preferably with a lot of
water, from a hose. This will remove all the
loose solids which may have stuck to the
vehicle. It is important to flush these off in
such a way as to prevent grit from scratching
the finish. The wheel arches and underframe
need washing in the same way to remove any
accumulated mud which will retain moisture
and tend to encourage rust. Oddly enough,
the best time to clean the underframe and
wheel arches is in wet weather when the mud
is thoroughly wet and soft. In very wet
weather the underframe is usually cleaned of
large accumulations automatically and this is
a good time for inspection.
Periodically, except on vehicles with a wax-
based underbody protective coating, it is a
good idea to have the whole of the underframe
of the vehicle steam cleaned, engine
compartment included, so that a thorough
inspection can be carried out to see what
minor repairs and renovations are necessary.
Steam cleaning is available at many garages
and is necessary for removal of the
accumulation of oily grime which sometimes is
allowed to become thick in certain areas. If
steam cleaning facilities are not available,
there are one or two excellent grease solvents
available, which can be brush applied. The dirt
can then be simply hosed off. Note that thesemethods should not be used on vehicles with
wax-based underbody protective coating or
the coating will be removed. Such vehicles
should be inspected annually, preferably just
prior to winter, when the underbody should be
washed down and any damage to the wax
coating repaired using a proprietry brand
undershield. Ideally, a completely fresh coat
should be applied. It would also be worth
considering the use of such wax-based
protection for injection into door panels, sills,
box sections, etc, as an additional safeguard
against rust damage where such protection is
not provided by the vehicle manufacturer.
After washing paintwork, wipe off with a
chamois leather to give an unspotted clear
finish. A coat of clear protective wax polish, will
give added protection against chemical
pollutants in the air. If the paintwork sheen has
dulled or oxidised, use a cleaner/polisher
combination to restore the brilliance of the
shine. This requires a little effort, but such
dulling is usually caused because regular
washing has been neglected. Care needs to be
taken with metallic paintwork, as special non-
abrasive cleaner/polisher is required to avoid
damage to the finish. Always check that the
door and ventilator opening drain holes and
pipes are completely clear so that water can be
drained out. Bright work should be treated in
the same way as paint work. Windscreens and
windows can be kept clear of the smeary film
which often appears by the use of a proprietary
glass cleaner. Never use any form of wax or
other body or chromium polish on glass.
At the specified intervals, check the
operation of the door locks and check straps
and lubricate the hinges with a little oil. Also
lubricate the hinges of the bonnet and boot lid
or tailgate, as applicable, and the bonnet
release mechanism.
Mats and carpets should be brushed or
vacuum cleaned regularly to keep them free of
grit. If they are badly stained remove them
from the vehicle for scrubbing or sponging and
make quite sure they are dry before refitting.
Seats and interior trim panels can be kept
clean by wiping with a damp cloth and a
proprietry wax polish. If they do become
stained (which can be more apparent on light
coloured upholstery) use a little liquid
detergent and a soft nail brush to scour the
grime out of the grain of the material. Do not
forget to keep the headlining clean in the same
way as the upholstery. When using liquid
cleaners inside the vehicle do not over-wet the
surfaces being cleaned. Excessive damp
could get into the seams and padded interior
causing stains, offensive odours or even rot. If
the inside of the vehicle gets wet accidentally it
is worthwhile taking some trouble to dry it out
properly, particularly where carpets are
involved. Do not leave oil or electric heaters
inside the vehicle for this purpose.Repair of minor scratches in
bodywork
If the scratch is very superficial, and does not
penetrate to the metal of the bodywork, repair is
very simple. Lightly rub the area of the scratch
with a paintwork renovator, or a very fine cutting
paste, to remove loose paint from the scratch
and to clear the surrounding bodywork of wax
polish. Rinse the area with clean water.
Apply touch-up paint to the scratch using a
fine paint brush; continue to apply fine layers
of paint until the surface of the paint in the
scratch is level with the surrounding
paintwork. Allow the new paint at least two
weeks to harden: then blend it into the
surrounding paintwork by rubbing the scratch
area with a paintwork renovator or a very fine
cutting paste. Finally, apply a good wax polish.
Where the scratch has penetrated right
through to the metal of the bodywork, causing
the metal to rust, a different repair technique is
required. Remove any loose rust from the
bottom of the scratch with a penknife, then
apply rust inhibiting paint, to prevent the
formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber or
nylon applicator fill the scratch with bodystopper
paste. If required, this paste can be mixed with
cellulose thinners to provide a very thin paste
which is ideal for filling narrow scratches. Before
the stopper-paste in the scratch hardens, wrap
a piece of smooth cotton rag around the top of a
finger. Dip the finger in cellulose thinners; and
then quickly sweep it across the surface of the
stopper-paste in the scratch; this will ensure that
the surface of the stopper-paste is slightly
hollowed. The scratch can now be painted over
as described earlier in this Section.
Repair of dents in bodywork
When deep denting of the vehicle’s
bodywork has taken place, the first task is to
pull the dent out, until the affected bodywork
almost attains its original shape. There is little
point in trying to restore the original shape
completely, as the metal in the damaged area
will have stretched on impact and cannot be
reshaped fully to its original contour. It is better
to bring the level of the dent up to a point which
is about 1/8 in (3 mm) below the level of the
surrounding bodywork. In cases where the dent
is very shallow anyway, it is not worth trying to
pull it out at all. If the underside of the dent is
accessible, it can be hammered out gently from
behind, using a mallet with a wooden or plastic
head. Whilst doing this, hold a suitable block of
wood firmly against the outside of the panel to
absorb the impact from the hammer blows and
thus prevent a large area of the bodywork from
being “belled-out”.
Should the dent be in a section of the
bodywork which has a double skin or some
other factor making it inaccessible from
behind, a different technique is called for. Drill
several small holes through the metal inside
the area particularly in the deeper section.
4Minor body damage - repair
3Maintenance - upholstery and
carpets
2Maintenance - bodywork,
underside and fittings
1General information
12•2Bodywork and fittings

Then screw long self-tapping screws into the
holes just sufficiently for them to gain a good
purchase in the metal. Now the dent can be
pulled out by pulling on the protruding heads
of the screws with a pair of pliers.
The next stage of the repair is the removal of
the paint from the damaged area, and from an
inch or so of the surrounding “sound”
bodywork. This is accomplished most easily by
using a wire brush or abrasive pad on a power
drill, although it can be done just as effectively
by hand using sheets of abrasive paper. To
complete the preparation for filling, score the
surface of the bare metal with a screwdriver or
the tang of a file, or alternatively, drill small
holes in the affected area. This will provide a
really good “key” for the filler paste.
To complete the repair see the Section on
filling and re-spraying.
Repair of rust holes or gashes in
bodywork
Remove all paint from the affected area and
from an inch or so of the surrounding “sound”
bodywork, using an abrasive pad or a wire brush
on a power drill. If these are not available a few
sheets of abrasive paper will do the job just as
effectively. With the paint removed you will be
able to gauge the severity of the corrosion and
therefore decide whether to renew the whole
panel (if this is possible) or to repair the affected
area. New body panels are not as expensive as
most people think and it is often quicker and
more satisfactory to fit a new panel than to
attempt to repair large areas of corrosion.
Remove all fittings from the affected area
except those which will act as a guide to the
original shape of the damaged bodywork (eg
headlamp shells etc). Then, using tin snips or a
hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal and
any other metal badly affected by corrosion.
Hammer the edges of the hole inwards in order
to create a slight depression for the filler paste.
Wire brush the affected area to remove the
powdery rust from the surface of the
remaining metal. Paint the affected area with
rust inhibiting paint; if the back of the rusted
area is accessible treat this also.
Before filling can take place it will be
necessary to block the hole in some way. This
can be achieved by the use of aluminium or
plastic mesh, or aluminium tape.
Aluminium or plastic mesh or glass fibre
matting is probably the best material to use for
a large hole. Cut a piece to the approximate
size and shape of the hole to be filled, then
position it in the hole so that its edges are
below the level of the surrounding bodywork. It
can be retained in position by several blobs of
filler paste around its periphery.
Aluminium tape should be used for small or
very narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll and
trim it to the approximate size and shape
required, then pull off the backing paper (if
used) and stick the tape over the hole; it can
be overlapped if the thickness of one piece is
insufficient. Burnish down the edges of the
tape with the handle of a screwdriver or
similar, to ensure that the tape is securely
attached to the metal underneath.
Bodywork repairs - filling and re-
spraying
Before using this Section, see the Sections on
dent, deep scratch, rust holes and gash repairs.
Many types of bodyfiller are available, but
generally speaking those proprietary kits
which contain a tin of filler paste and a tube of
resin hardener are best for this type of repair. A
wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will be
found invaluable for imparting a smooth and
well contoured finish to the surface of the filler.
Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card or
board measure the hardener carefully (follow
the maker’s instructions on the pack) otherwise
the filler will set too rapidly or too slowly.
Alternatively, a no-mix filler can be used straight
from the tube without mixing, but daylight is
required to cure it. Using the applicator apply
the filler paste to the prepared area; draw the
applicator across the surface of the filler to
achieve the correct contour and to level the filler
surface. As soon as a contour that
approximates to the correct one is achieved,
stop working the paste - if you carry on too long
the paste will become sticky and begin to “pick
up” on the applicator. Continue to add thin
layers of filler paste at twenty-minute intervals
until the level of the filler is just proud of the
surrounding bodywork.
Once the filler has hardened, excess can be
removed using a metal plane or file. From then
on, progressively finer grades of abrasive
paper should be used, starting with a 40
grade production paper and finishing with 400
grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrap the
abrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork, or
wooden block - otherwise the surface of the
filler will not be completely flat. During the
smoothing of the filler surface the wet-and-dry
paper should be periodically rinsed in water.
This will ensure that a very smooth finish is
imparted to the filler at the final stage.
At this stage the “dent” should be
surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in
turn should be encircled by the finely
“feathered” edge of the good paintwork.
Rinse the repair area with clean water, until all
of the dust produced by the rubbing-down
operation has gone.
Spray the whole repair area with a light coat
of primer, this will show up any imperfections
in the surface of the filler. Repair these
imperfections with fresh filler paste or
bodystopper, and once more smooth the
surface with abrasive paper. If bodystopper is
used, it can be mixed with cellulose thinners
to form a really thin paste which is ideal for
filling small holes.
Repeat this spray and repair procedure until
you are satisfied that the surface of the filler,
and the feathered edge of the paintwork are
perfect. Clean the repair area with clean water
and allow to dry fully.
The repair area is now ready for final
spraying. Paint spraying must be carried out
in a warm, dry, windless and dust free
atmosphere. This condition can be created
artificially if you have access to a large indoor
working area, but if you are forced to work in
the open, you will have to pick your day verycarefully. If you are working indoors, dousing
the floor in the work area with water will help
to settle the dust which would otherwise be in
the atmosphere. If the repair area is confined
to one body panel, mask off the surrounding
panels; this willhelp to minimise the effects of
a slight mis-match in paint colours. Bodywork
fittings (eg chrome strips, door handles etc)
will also need to be masked off. Use genuine
masking tape and several thicknesses of
newspaper for the masking operations.
Before commencing to spray, agitate the
aerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area
(an old tin, or similar) until the technique is
mastered. Cover the repair area with a thick coat
of primer; the thickness should be built up using
several thin layers of paint rather than one thick
one. Using 400 grade wet-and-dry paper, rub
down the surface of the primer until it is really
smooth. While doing this, the work area should
be thoroughly doused with water, and the wet-
and-dry paper periodically rinsed in water. Allow
to dry before spraying on more paint.
Spray on the top coat, again building up the
thickness by using several thin layers of paint.
Start spraying in the centre of the repair area
and then work outwards, with a side-to-side
motion, until the whole repair area and about 2
inches of the surrounding original paintwork is
covered. Remove all masking material 10 to 15
minutes after spraying on the final coat of paint.
Allow the new paint at least two weeks to
harden, then, using a paintwork renovator or a
very fine cutting paste, blend the edges of the
paint into the existing paintwork. Finally, apply
wax polish.
Plastic components
With the use of more and more plastic body
components by the vehicle manufacturers (eg
bumpers, spoilers, and in some cases major
body panels), rectification of more serious
damage to such items has become a matter of
either entrusting repair work to a specialist in this
field, or renewing complete components. Repair
of such damage by the DIY owner is not really
feasible owing to the cost of the equipment and
materials required for effecting such repairs. The
basic technique involves making a groove along
the line of the crack in the plastic using a rotary
burr in a power drill. The damaged part is then
welded back together by using a hot air gun to
heat up and fuse a plastic filler rod into the
groove. Any excess plastic is then removed and
the area rubbed down to a smooth finish. It is
important that a filler rod of the correct plastic is
used, as body components can be made of a
variety of different types (eg polycarbonate,
ABS, polypropylene).
Damage of a less serious nature (abrasions,
minor cracks etc) can be repaired by the DIY
owner using a two-part epoxy filler repair
material. Once mixed in equal proportions,
this is used in similar fashion to the bodywork
filler used on metal panels. The filler is usually
cured in twenty to thirty minutes, ready for
sanding and painting.
If the owner is renewing a complete
component himself, or if he has repaired it with
epoxy filler, he will be left with the problem of
finding a suitable paint for finishing which is
Bodywork and fittings 12•3
12

compatible with the type of plastic used. At one
time the use of a universal paint was not
possible owing to the complex range of plastics
encountered in body component applications.
Standard paints, generally speaking, will not
bond to plastic or rubber satisfactorily.
However, it is now possible to obtain a plastic
body parts finishing kit which consists of a pre-
primer treatment, a primer and coloured top
coat. Full instructions are normally supplied with
a kit, but basically the method of use is to first
apply the pre-primer to the component
concerned and allow it to dry for up to 30
minutes. Then the primer is applied and left to
dry for about an hour before finally applying the
special coloured top coat. The result is a
correctly coloured component where the paint
will flex with the plastic or rubber, a property
that standard paint does not normally possess.
Where serious damage has occurred or large
areas need renewal due to neglect, it means
certainly that completely new sections or panels
will need welding in and this is best left to
professionals. If the damage is due to impact, it
will also be necessary to completely check the
alignment of the bodyshell structure. Due to the
principle of construction, the strength and shape
of the whole car can be affected by damage to
one part. In such instances the services of a
Ford agent with specialist checking jigs are
essential. If a body is left misaligned, it is first of
all dangerous as the car will not handle properly,
and secondly uneven stresses will be imposed
on the steering, engine and transmission,
causing abnormal wear or complete failure. Tyre
wear may also be excessive.
Removal
1Support the bonnet in its open position,
and place protective covers (old rags or
cardboard) beneath the corners of the bonnet,
and over the front wings to prevent damage to
the paintwork.
2Remove the screw and disconnect the earth
strap from the rear left-hand edge of the bonnet
(see illustration). Where applicable, disconnect
the wiring from the underbonnet lamp.
3Mark the location of the hinges on the sides
of the bonnet with a soft pencil or masking
tape, then loosen the four hinge bolts.
4With the help of an assistant, remove the
bolts and lift the bonnet from the vehicle (see
illustration).
5If required, the underbonnet insulation can
be removed by prising out the two-piece
plastic securing clips.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in
mind the following points.7Adjust the hinges to their original marked
positions before tightening the bolts.
8On completion, check that the bonnet is
central within its aperture and aligned with the
surrounding bodywork. Re-adjust the hinges
to give satisfactory alignment if necessary.
9Check that the bonnet lock striker engages
fully in the lock, and if necessary adjust the
position of the lock striker and/or the height of
the bonnet rubber bump stops (see
illustration).
Removal
1Working inside the vehicle, remove the
three retaining screws, and withdraw the
lower steering column shroud.
2Remove the retaining screw, and withdraw
the release cable bracket from the steering
column.
3Working in the engine compartment, pull
the cable sheath end fitting from its bracket,
and release the cable end fitting from the lock
lever (see illustration).
4Release the cable from the clips in the
engine compartment.
5Pull the cable through the bulkhead into the
passenger compartment, taking care not to
lose the bulkhead grommet.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure
that the grommet is correctly located in thebulkhead, and that the cable is free from
sharp bends and kinks. There should be a
small amount of free play at the lock end of
the cable if necessary re-route the cable to
achieve this condition.
7Note that should the release cable snap
while the bonnet is shut, the bonnet may be
opened as follows.
8Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the vehicle and support on axle stands (see
“
Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
9Using an inspection lamp or torch, look up
between the radiator and the radiator grille
panel and locate the circular hole below the
bonnet lock (see illustration).
10Insert a screwdriver through the hole so
that it passes to the right of the lock striker.
Twist or lever the lock sliding plate to the right
until the striker is released. The bonnet can
now be opened.
7Bonnet lock release cable -
removal and refitting
6Bonnet - removal and refitting
5Major body damage - repair
12•4Bodywork and fittings
6.2 Remove the screw and disconnect the
bonnet earth cable
6.9 Adjustable bonnet rubber bump stop
7.9 Access hole (arrowed) below bonnet
lock7.3 Bonnet lock release cable end fittings -
models up to 1987
6.4 Lifting the bonnet from the vehicle

Models up to 1987
1Working in the engine compartment,
disconnect the cable from the bonnet lock by
pulling the cable sheath end fitting from its
bracket, then releasing the end fitting from the
lock lever.
2Remove the three securing screws and
withdraw the lock from the front panel.
3Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Models from 1987
4Remove the radiator grille panel.
5Disconnect the cable from the bonnet lock
by pulling the cable sheath end fitting from its
bracket, then releasing the end fitting from the
lock lever.
6Detach the bracing strut from the lock by
removing the screw, then remove the two
securing screws and withdraw the lock from
the front panel.
7Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Removal
1Open the boot lid, and place protective
covers (old rags or cardboard) beneath the
corners of the lid, and over the rear wings to
prevent damage to the paintwork.
2Where applicable, disconnect the wiring
from the lock solenoid and “boot lid ajar”
sensor, after disconnecting the battery
negative lead.
3Release the wiring loom grommets, taking
care not to lose them, then tie string to the
wiring loom(s), and pull the loom(s) through
the boot lid. Leave the string(s) in position in
the boot lid to aid refitting of the loom(s).
4Mark the location of the hinges on the
underside of the lid using a soft pencil or
masking type, then loosen the four hinge bolts.5With the help of an assistant, remove the
bolts and lift the boot lid from the vehicle.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in
mind the following points.
7Adjust the hinges to their original marked
positions before tightening the bolts.
8On completion, check that the boot lid is
central within its aperture and aligned with the
surrounding bodywork. Re-adjust the hinges
to give satisfactory alignment if necessary.
9Check that the lock striker engages fully in
the lock, and if necessary adjust the position
of the lock striker.
Removal
1With the boot lid raised, remove the lock
barrel retaining clip.
2Where applicable, disconnect the operating
lever from the central locking solenoid/motor,
then withdraw the lock barrel.
3Remove the three retaining screws from the
lock assembly, if necessary loosening the
reinforcing plate (see illustration).
4Where applicable, disconnect the battery
negative lead, the earth lead from the bootlid
and the “boot lid ajar” sensor wiring plug.
Unclip the luggage compartment light switch
from the lock assembly, where applicable.
5Withdraw the lock assembly from the boot
lid.
Refitting
6Commence refitting by inserting the lock
assembly and loosely refitting the retaining
screws.
7Insert the lock barrel, where applicable
reconnecting the operating lever to the
solenoid, and refit the retaining clip.
8Tighten the lock assembly retaining screws,
and where applicable reconnect the earth
lead and “boot lid ajar” sensor wiring plug,
and the battery negative lead.
9If the reinforcing plate was loosened during
removal, tighten the retaining screws.Note: On Hatchback models made before
1990 with an integral heated rear
window/radio aerial, note that the radio aerial
lead is routed through different openings to
that of other models in the rear bodywork and
the tailgate. If a new, later-specification
tailgate is to be fitted to an earlier vehicle, a
new opening must be made in the bodywork
for the aerial lead. Ideally, this work should be
carried out by a Ford dealer, who will have the
necessary template available to ensure that
the opening is positioned accurately.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Open the tailgate and prise out the trim
panel using a wide-bladed screwdriver.
3Disconnect the wiring from the heated rear
window, rear wash/wipe, interior light, lock
solenoid and “tailgate ajar” sensor, as
applicable. Disconnect the washer fluid hose
where applicable; be prepared for fluid
spillage.
4Release the wiring loom/hose grommet(s)
taking care not to lose it/them, then tie string
to the wiring loom(s)/hose, and pull the
loom(s)/hose through the tailgate. Leave the
string(s) in position in the tailgate to aid
refitting of the loom(s)/hose.
5Have an assistant support the tailgate, then
disconnect the support struts by prising out
the retaining clips. Do not remove the clips
completely, just raise them by a maximum of
4.0 mm (0.16 in) and then pull the struts off
their mountings (see illustration).
6Prise out the hinge fixing covers from the
headlining, unscrew the hinge nuts and
washers, and with the aid of the assistant,
withdraw the tailgate from the vehicle (see
illustration).
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of removal, but do not
fully tighten the hinge nuts until the tailgate is
positioned centrally in its aperture. If
necessary, adjust the position of the lock
striker so that it engages fully in the lock.
11Tailgate (Hatchback and
Estate models) - removal and
refitting
10Boot lid lock (Saloon models)
- removal and refitting
9Boot lid (Saloon models) -
removal and refitting
8Bonnet lock - removal and
refitting
Bodywork and fittings 12•5
12
11.6 Tailgate hinge assembly - Hatchback
and Estate models
11.5 Prising out a tailgate strut retaining
clip10.3 Boot lid lock - Saloon models
A Lock retaining
screws
B Earth leadC Reinforcing plate
screws

Removal
1Open the tailgate and prise out the trim
panel using a wide-bladed screwdriver(see
illustration).
2Remove the lock barrel retaining clip, and
where applicable disconnect the operating
lever from the central locking solenoid/motor,
then withdraw the lock barrel (see
illustration). Central locking solenoid/motor
removal and refitting is covered in Chapter 13.
3Remove the two securing screws and
detach the lock barrel support bracket from
the tailgate.
4Where applicable, disconnect the battery
negative lead, the earth lead from the tailgate
and the “tailgate ajar” sensor wiring plug.
Unclip the luggage compartment light switch
from the lock assembly, where applicable.
5Remove the securing screws and withdraw
the lock assembly.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal, but do not
tighten the lock barrel support bracket screws
until the lock barrel has been fitted.
Removal
1Support the tailgate in the open position
using a prop, or with the aid of an assistant.
2Disconnect the strut from the tailgate by
prising out the retaining clip. Do not remove
the clip completely, just raise it by a maximum
of 4.0 mm (0.16 in) and then pull the strut off
its mounting.
3Pull the strut from the pivot stud on the
body.
Refitting
4Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Removal
1Operate the control lever to open the
tailgate/boot lid and the fuel filler flap (see
illustration).
2Remove the driver’s side centre pillar lower
trim panel and the sill trim panel.
3Withdraw the cover from the control lever.
4Unscrew the two securing bolts, and
detach the control lever assembly from the
body panel. Detach the cable from the control
assembly.
5Fold the rear seat cushion forwards or
remove it, as applicable, and remove the rear
seat side cushion for access to the wheel arch
trim panel.
6Detach the trim panel from the wheel arch
by removing the two securing screws from the
parcel shelf bracket. Free the cable up to the
wheel arch.
7Working inside the luggage compartment,
remove the trim panels for access to the
petrol flap lock and tailgate/boot lid lock.
8Disengage the petrol flap catch from the
housing by twisting and pulling out (see
illustration). Carefully pull the cable through into
the luggage compartment, noting its routing.
9Remove the securing screws, and withdraw
the tailgate/boot lid lock striker from the bodypanel. Withdraw the striker and cable
assembly.
Refitting
10Commence refitting by installing the
tailgate/boot lid striker and cable assembly.
Secure the cable to the body with tape.
11Route the cable back to the petrol flap
housing, and refit the petrol flap catch.
12Route the cable into the interior of the
vehicle, and refit the luggage compartment
trim panels.
13Route the cable to the control lever,
securing the cable with tape to the body, then
refit the wheel arch trim panel, and refit the
seat cushions.
14Reconnect the cable to the control lever
assembly, then refit the assembly.
15Refit the control lever cover and the trim
panels.
Models up to 1990
1Open the tailgate/boot lid.
2Prise the four screw covers from the
spoiler, then remove the screws, and
withdraw the spoiler.
3Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Models from 1990
4Open the tailgate/boot lid.
5Remove the inner tailgate/boot lid trim
panel for access to the spoiler securing nuts.
6Unscrew the central spoiler securing nut,
then unscrew the four outer securing nuts
(two on each side), and withdraw the spoiler.
7Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Front door
1On models with electric mirrors, electric
windows, central-locking, door-mounted
speakers, or “door ajar” sensors, remove the
trim panel and disconnect the wiring inside
the door. Withdraw the wiring loom(s) through
the grommet(s) in the front edge of the door.
16Door - removal and refitting
15Tailgate/boot lid spoiler -
removal and refitting
14Tailgate/boot lid/fuel filler
flap release cable - removal
and refitting
13Tailgate strut (Hatchback
and Estate models) - removal
and refitting
12Tailgate lock (Hatchback and
Estate models) - removal and
refitting
12•6Bodywork and fittings
14.1 Tailgate/boot lid/fuel filler flap control
lever assembly14.8 Disengaging the petrol flap catch
from the housing
12.2 Tailgate lock assembly - Hatchback
and Estate models
A Lock barrel support
bracket
B Lock barrel
retaining clipC Lock barrel
D Torx screw
E Lock assembly
F Screws
12.1 Tailgate trim panel fixings -
Hatchback and Estate models

2Unscrew and remove the bolt securing the
check arm to the body pillar (see illustration).
3Remove the two securing screws, and
withdraw the side trim panel from the footwell.
4If working on the driver’s side, remove the
lower facia panels and disconnect the face
level vent hose.
5If working on the passenger side, remove
the face level vent cover.
6Support the door on blocks of wood.
7Working through the body pillar aperture,
unscrew the two securing nuts and remove
the reinforcing plate from the lower hinge.
Repeat the procedure for the upper hinge
(see illustration).
8Withdraw the door from the vehicle.
9Refitting is a reversal of removal, but do not
fully tighten the hinge bolts until the door is
positioned centrally in the body aperture and
aligned with the surrounding bodywork. If
necessary, remove the lock striker from the
body centre pillar before adjusting the door,
then refit it and adjust its position so that the
lock operates correctly.
Rear door
10On models equipped with electric
windows, central-locking, or “door ajar”
sensors, remove the trim panel and
disconnect the wiring inside the door.
Withdraw the wiring loom(s) through the
grommet(s) in the front edge of the door.11Unscrew and remove the bolt securing
the check arm to the body centre pillar.
12Remove the centre pillar trim panel.
13Proceed as described in paragraphs 6 to
9 inclusive.
Rear door (late model Estate)
14The door internal components have been
modified on later Estate models. If a new,
later-specification rear door is to be fitted to
an earlier vehicle, the door panels must be
modified as follows to enable refitting of the
original components.
15Remove all the serviceable components
and fasteners from the original door.
16Working on the new door, use a small
round file to elongate the door interior handle
mounting hole “A” (see illustration)vertically
downwards so that it will align with the
mounting hole in the handle/ashtray bezel.
Refit the original retaining clip.17The earlier type of trim fasteners (located
at “B”) are no longer used, and must be
replaced with the latest type of fasteners,
available from a Ford dealer.
Front door
Models up to 1987
1On models with manually-operated
windows, prise the cover from the window
regulator handle, note the position of the
handle with the window fully shut, then
remove the securing screw and withdraw the
handle and bezel (see illustrations).
2Remove the securing screw and withdraw
the trim panel from behind the door grip (see
illustration).
17Door inner trim panel -
removal and refitting
Bodywork and fittings 12•7
12
16.16 Later-type rear door -
Estate models
A Internal handle mounting hole
B Early-type ashtray/handle mounting holes
C Revised mounting holes17.1a Prise the cover from the window
handle, remove the securing screw . . .17.1b . . . then withdraw the window handle
and bezel (arrowed)
16.2 Remove the door check arm-to-body
pillar bolt (arrowed)
1 Nut
2 Reinforcing plate3 Hinge pin
4 Bush5 Hinge assembly
16.7 Exploded view of the front door hinge (A) and rear door hinge (B)

then lift the trim panel to disengage it from the
top retaining clips, and withdraw the panel
from the door (see illustrations).
16Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Rear door
Models up to 1987
17Proceed as shown in paragraphs 1 to 3.
18On models fitted with electric windows,
disconnect the battery negative lead, then
prise the switch from the armrest and
disconnect the wiring plug.
19Proceed as described in paragraph 6.
20Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
ensure that all the retaining clips are correctly
aligned before pressing them into the door.
Models from 1987
21Proceed as described in paragraph 1.
22Remove the securing screw from the
interior door handle, then pull out the ashtray,
and remove the two now exposed screws.23Lift the interior door handle, and withdraw
the handle/ashtray surround.
24Prise out the armrest trim panel, remove
the three securing screws and withdraw the
armrest.
25Remove the two trim panel securing
screws from each side of the door, then lift the
trim panel to disengage it from the top
retaining clips, and withdraw the panel from
the door.
26Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Removal
1Remove the door inner trim panel.
2Where necessary for improved access, peel
back the waterproof plastic sheet from the
door.
3Remove the two securing screws in the
case of models up to 1987, or the single
securing screw on models from 1987, and
slide the handle assembly from the door
aperture, if necessary unclipping the remote
control rods from their guides (see
illustrations).
4Disconnect the remote control rods from
the handle assembly, and withdraw the
handle assembly.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, but check
that the remote control rods are correctly
located in their guides (see illustration).
Removal
1Remove the door inner trim panel.
2Where necessary for improved access, peel
back the waterproof plastic sheet from the door.
3If working on a front door, remove the
window channel extension screw from the
bottom rear corner of the door, and withdraw
the channel through the lower door aperture
(see illustration).
4Disconnect the handle operating rod at the
lock.
5Remove the two handle securing screws
and withdraw the handle and operating rod
from the door.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal, but if
working on a front door, ensure that the
window channel extension is correctly
located.
Removal
1Remove the door inner trim panel.
2Where necessary for access, peel back the
waterproof plastic sheet from the door.
20Door lock barrel - removal
and refitting
19Door exterior handle -
removal and refitting
18Door interior handle - removal
and refitting
Bodywork and fittings 12•9
12
18.5 Remote control rods correctly located
in their guides
19.3 Front door window channel extension
A Remove the retaining screw (arrowed)
B Withdraw the channel through the lower
door aperture18.3b . . . and slide the handle assembly
from the door aperture
18.3a Remove the securing screws . . .
17.15b Trim panel securing screw at top
edge of door pocket17.15a Trim panel securing screw at
bottom rear edge of door17.12b . . . and withdraw the mirror control
panel

3Remove the window channel extension
screw from the bottom rear corner of the
door, and withdraw the channel through the
lower door aperture.
4Working inside the door aperture, pull out
the lock barrel retaining clip using pliers, then
unhook the lock operating rod from the barrel,
and withdraw the barrel from outside the door
(see illustration).
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Models up to 1990
1Remove the door inner trim panel.
2Where necessary for improved access, peel
back the waterproof plastic sheet from the
door.
3Withdraw the window channel extension
through the lower rear door aperture after
removing the single securing screw if working
on a front door or the two securing screws if
working on a rear door.
4Remove the three securing screws from the
rear edge of the door, then reach inside the
door and turn the lock to disconnect it from
the control rods.
5Where applicable, disconnect the “door
ajar” sensor wiring plug and the central
locking component wiring plug(s). Central
locking component removal and refitting is
covered in Chapter 13.
6Withdraw the lock from inside the door.
7Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure
that the window channel extension is correctly
located.
Models from 1990
8From 1990, cable-operated door locks have
been fitted to all Sierra models. To remove the
later type of lock, proceed as follows. Do not
bend or stretch the cable during removal and
refitting, as the operation of the lock will be
impaired.
9Remove the door inner trim panel.
10Where necessary for improved access,
peel back the waterproof plastic sheet from
the door.11Remove the securing screw, and
withdraw the window channel extension
through the door’s lower aperture.
12Disconnect the door outer handle and the
lock barrel (front doors) operating rods at the
lock assembly.
13Disconnect the battery negative lead, and
disconnect the door lock motor and the alarm
system wiring plugs (where applicable).
14Remove the screw securing the door
interior handle to the door panel.
15Remove the three lock securing screws
from the rear edge of the door, then withdraw
the lock assembly complete with the
operating cable and the door interior handle.
16To disconnect the cable from the lock,
proceed as follows.
17Carefully prise the cover plate from the
lock, using a screwdriver(see illustration).
18Using a suitable pair of pliers, carefully
remove the outer cable from the groove in the
lock assembly casing.
19Extend the inner cable until the flats on
the plastic end piece align with the guide, then
withdraw the cable (see illustration).
20Commence reassembly and refitting as
follows.
21Align the flats on the inner cable end piece
with the cable guide, and refit the inner cable.
22Using a suitable pair of pliers, carefully
refit the outer cable to the groove in the lock
assembly casing.
23Refit the lock cover plate.
24Insert the lock, cable and interior handle
into the door, and refit the three lock securing
screws. 25Push the interior handle assembly
towards the lock to adjust the cable, and
when adjustment is correct, refit and tighten
the interior handle securing screw.
26Further refitting is a reversal of removal,
ensuring that the window channel extension is
correctly located.
Removal
1Remove the door inner trim panel.
2Unscrew and remove the bolt securing the
check arm to the body pillar.
3Unscrew and remove the two bolts
securing the check arm to the door, and
withdraw the check arm from inside the door.
Peel back the waterproof plastic sheet where
necessary for improved access.
Refitting
4Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Note: A suitable lifting crane and tackle will be
required for this operation.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the fuel filler cap, then drain the
fuel tank.
3Remove the two securing screws and
detach the fuel filler pipe from the cargo area.
4Disconnect the number plate lamp and the
rear lamp wiring plugs, and release the wiring
from the cargo area.
5Disconnect the earth lead from the right-
hand front cargo area mounting bracket
underneath the vehicle.
6Working underneath the vehicle, remove
the three Torx bolts on each side securing the
cargo area to the chassis (see illustration).
7Make up a cradle to lift the cargo area from
the chassis, using suitable ropes or chains
attached to the tonneau tie-down points.
23Cargo area (P100 models) -
removal and refitting
22Door check arm - removal
and refitting
21Door lock - removal and
refitting
12•10Bodywork and fittings
21.17 Prising the cover plate from a cable-
operated door lock
23.6 Cargo area-to-chassis Torx bolt
locations (arrowed) - one side shown for
clarity
21.19 Disconnecting the operating cable
from a cable-operated door lock
A Removing outer cable
B Disconnecting inner cable
20.4 Door lock barrel location. Retaining
clip arrowed

7On models with remote control mirrors,
insert a thin screwdriver through the hole in
the bottom of the mirror assembly, and whilst
supporting the glass, release the locking ring
(see illustration).
8Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure
that the front edge of the mirror is correctly
located under the window surround.
Electric mirror
9Disconnect the battery negative lead.
10If working on the driver’s side of models
up to 1987, prise the mirror switch assembly
from the door trim panel and disconnect the
wiring plug.
11If working on the driver’s side of models
from 1987, prise the securing screw cover
from the mirror control panel, then remove the
screw and withdraw the control panel.
Disconnect the wiring plug.
12On models up to 1987, and when working
on the passenger side of models from 1987,
prise out the mirror trim panel.
13Remove the three mirror securing screws,
and withdraw the mirror by tilting its rear edge
outwards and disengaging its front edge from
under the window surround. Withdraw the
wiring through the door.
14To remove the mirror glass proceed as
described in paragraph 7.
15Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
ensure that the front edge of the mirror is
correctly located under the window surround.
Front bumper
Models up to 1987
1Remove the radiator grille panel.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead, then
disconnect the wiring plugs from the
indicators, and where applicable the
foglamps.
3Working under the front wing, release the
single bumper fastener from each side of the
vehicle by turning the plastic clip through 90º
(quarter of a turn).
4On Ghia models, unclip the support strap
between each front wing and the bumper.
5Unscrew the single bolt securing each
bumper fixing bracket to the body front panel,
then pull the bumper forwards away from the
body, disengaging the retaining pegs from the
clips in each wing.
6Refitting is a reversal of removal; ensure that
all fixings are correctly located and secure.
Models from 1987
7If foglamps are fitted, disconnect the
battery negative lead, then disconnect the
wiring plugs from the foglamps.
8Working under the front wings, unscrew the
single bolt from each side of the bumper.
9Release the plastic retaining screws and
pull the wheel arch liners away from the ends
of the bumper.
10Pull the bumper forwards away from the
body, releasing the front mounting spigots
from their sockets.11Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
ensure that the reinforcing plate and O-ring are
located on the right-hand mounting spigot.
12The bumper height can be adjusted by
turning the adjusters located on the front
mounting spigots using a suitable Torx
screwdriver with a length of at least 150.0 mm
(6.0 in) (see illustrations).
Rear bumper - Saloon, Hatchback
and Estate models
13Disconnect the battery negative lead, then
prise the number plate lamps from the bumper,
and disconnect the wiring plugs. Withdraw the
wiring through the bumper assembly.
14Working inside the luggage compartment,
unscrew the two bumper securing bolts.
15Working under the rear wings, release the
single bumper fastener from each side of the
vehicle by turning the plastic clip through 90º
(quarter of a turn) (see illustration).
16Pull the bumper rearwards away from the
body, disengaging the retaining pegs from the
clips in each wing.
17Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
ensure that all fixings are correctly located
and secure.
18On some later models, the bumper height
can be adjusted by means of the adjusters
located on the mounting brackets - see
paragraph 12 (see illustration).
Rear bump stop - P100 models
19Working underneath the vehicle, unscrew
the two securing nuts and washers from the
bump stop studs, and withdraw the bump
stop (see illustration).
20Refitting is a reversal of removal.
30Bumper - removal and refitting
Bodywork and fittings 12•13
12
30.15 Rear bumper plastic fastener30.19 Rear bump stop securing nut
locations (arrowed) - P100 models30.18 Adjusting the height of a rear
bumper
30.12b Front bumper height adjusting
screw - models from 198730.12a Adjusting the height of a front
bumper - models from 198729.7 Manual remote control and electric
door mirror glass removal
A Locking operation
B Unlocking
operationC Locating pegs
D Locking slots
E Locking ring