brake light ISUZU TROOPER 1995 Workshop Manual

OB-6 MAINTENANCE AND LUBRICATION
BRAKE SYSTEMS OPERATION
Watch for the "BRAKE" light coming on. Other
signs of possible brake trouble are such things as
repeated pulling to one side when braking, unusual
sounds
when braking or between brake
applications,
or increased brake pedal travel. If you
note one of these conditions, repair the system at
once.
For convenience, the
following should be done
when wheels are removed for rotation: Inspect lines
and hoses
for proper hookup, bindings, leaks, crack,
chafing etc.
Inspect disc brake pads for wear and
rotors
for surface condition.
Inspect other brake parts, including parking brake
drums, linings etc., at the same time. Check parking
brake adjustment.
Inspect brakes more often if habit or
conditions
result in frequent braking.
PARKING BRAKE AND TRANSMISSION
PARK MECHANISM OPERATION
Park on a fairly steep hill and hold the vehicle with
the parking brake only. This checks holding ability.
On
automatic transmission vehicles, shifting from
"P" position to the other positions cannot be made
unless
the brake pedal is depressed when the key
switch is in
"ON" position or the engine running.
WARNING
•
Before checking starter safety switch
operation below,
be sure to have enough
room around the
vehicle. Then firmly apply
both the parking brake and the regular brake.
Do not
use the accelerator pedal. If the engine
starts, be ready
to turn off the key promptly.
Take these precautions because the vehicle
could move
without warning and possibly
cause personal injury
or property damage.
STARTER SAFETY SWITCH OPERATION
(AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION)
Check by trying to start the engine in each gear
while setting the parking brake and the foot brake.
The starter
should crank only in "P" (Park) or "N"
(Neutral).
STARTER SAFETY SWITCH OPERATION
(MANUAL TRANSMISSION)
To check, place the shift lever in "Neutral", push
the clutch pedal halfway and try to start. The starter
should not crank. The starter should crank only
when the clutch pedal is fully depressed.
ACCELERATOR LINKAGE LUBRICATION
Lubricate the accelerator pedal fulcrum pin with
chassis grease.
STEERING AND SUSPENSION
INSPECTION
Inspect front and rear suspension and steering
system
for damaged, loose or missing parts or signs
of wear. Inspect power steering lines and hoses for
proper hookup, binding, leaks, cracks, chafing, etc.
BODY AND CHASSIS LUBRICATION
Lubricate the key lock cylinders, the hood latch, the
hood and door hinges, the door check link, the
parking cable guides,
the underbody contact points,
and the linkage.
PROPELLER SHAFT INSPECTION AND
LUBRICATION
Lubricate sliding yoke and universal joints with
grease containing MOS2 (disulfide molybdenum
type grease) at the interval shown in the
Maintenance Schedule. Check for play in normal
direction of rotation of sliding yoke and universal
joints. Also check
propeller shaft flange-to-pinion
bolts for proper torque of 63 N·m (46 lb·ft) for front
and rear propeller shaft.
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID
INSPECTION
Check the lubricant level every 7,500 miles (12,000
km) and add lubricant
if necessary.
Under harsh operating conditions, such as constant
driving in heavy city traffic during
hot weather, or in
hilly or mountainous terrain, change the transmission
fluid and service the
sump filter after every 20,000
miles (32,000 km) of operation.
AUTO CRUISE CONTROL INSPECTION
Check to see if the clearance between cruise link and
accelerator is normal. Also check that the vacuum
hoses are routed and connected properly.
CLUTCH LINES AND HOSES INSPECTION
Check lines and hoses for proper attachment,
binding, leaks, cracks, chafing, deterioration, etc.
Any questionable parts should be replaced or
repaired at once. When abrasion or wear is evident
on lines or hoses, the cause must be corrected.
..

DIAGNOSIS 3-5
POWER STEERING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
HISSING NOISE
There is some noise in all power steering systems. One of the most common is a hissing sound when the steering
wheel is fully turned and the car is not moving. This noise will be most evident when the wheel is operated while
the brakes are applied. There is no relationship between this noise and steering performance. Do not replace the
valve unless the "hissing" noise is extremely objectionable. A replacement valve will also have a slight noise, and
is
not always a cure for the condition.
Condition
Possible Cause Correction
Rattle or Chucking 1. Pressure
hose touching other parts of vehicle. Adjust hose position. Do not
Noise bend
tubing by hand.
2. Tie rod ends loose. Tighten or replace tie rod
end.
3. Loose steering gear mounting. Tighten
steering gear
mounting.
4. Steering gear misadjustment. Check and adjust steering
gear
preload.
Poor Return of Steering 1. Improper front wheel alignment. Adjust front wheel
Wheel
to Center alignment.
2. Wheel bearing worn. Replace front wheel
bearing.
3. Tie rod end binding. Replace tie rod end.
4. Ball joint binding. Replace ball joint.
5. Tight or frozen steering shaft bearing. Replace steering assembly.
6. Steering gear misadjustment. Adjust the steering gear.
7. Sticky or plugged steering gear valve. Repair or replace steering
gear
valve.
8. Entry of air in the power steering system. Bleed the system.
Momentary Increase In 1. High internal leakage. Repair steering gear.
Effort When Turning
2. Power steering fluid level low. Replenish
fluid.
Wheel
Fast To Right or
Left
Steering
Wheel Surges 1. Insufficient pump pressure. Repair pump assembly.
or Jerks
When Turning 2. Sticky steering gear valve. Repair or replace steering
Especially During gear.
Parking
3. Power steering fluid level low. Replenish
fluid.
Excessive Wheel Kick 1. Air in system. Bleed hydraulic system.
Back
or Loose Steering 2. Tie rod end loose. Tighten tie rod end.
3. Wheel bearing worn. Replace wheel bearing.
Hard Steering
or Lack 1. Sticky steering gear valve. Repair or replace steering
or Power Assist gear valve.
2. Insufficient pump pressure.
Repair pump assembly.
3. Excessive internal pump leakage. Repair
pump assembly.
4. Excessive internal steering gear leakage. Repair steering gear
5. Power steering fluid level low. Replenish
fluid.

30-4 REAR SUSPENSION
I••IINSTALLATION
5. Coil spring
• Make surethatthecoil spring is installed in the
proper position (Fig. 30-3).
1~41 • Fit the end of the coil spring to the coil spring
seat and
mount the coil spring on the rear axle
case (Fig. 30-4).
UP
t
Paint
SWB LWB
Fig. 30-3
Fig. 30-4
4. Insulator
• Install the insulator on the coil spring. Jack up
the axle case gently with the top of the coil
spring set to the spring seat on the frame side
(Fig.
30-5).
Fig. 30-5
3. Shock absorber
• Tighten the nut lightly, and retighten to the
specified
torque after the vehicle is at curb
height.
NOTE:
When mounting shock absorber, be sure not to use
grease on
bushings or any other nearby part.
~~~ Torque N·m (lb.ft) I 78 (58)
2. Stabilizer bar
~~~ Torque N·m (lb·ft) I 50 (37)
1. Parking brake cable bracket
•

J-39214-2 J-39214-1
Fig. 30-9
1••1 INSTALLATION
3. Trailing link
~ • Make sure that the trailing link is in its correct
1.=.1 position (Fig. 30-1 0).
NOTE:
When mounting trailing link, be sure not to use grease
on bushings or any other nearby part.
2. Bolt and nut
NOTE:
Tighten the bolts and nuts lightly, and retighten to the
specified torque after the
vehicle is at curb height.
1~1 Torque N·m (lb·ft)
1. Parking brake cable
W CAUTION:
137 (101)
VI The parking brake cable should not be
overstrained or
slackened.
UP
Fig. 30-10
REAR SUSPENSION 30-7

REAR AXLE 48-3
DIAGNOSIS OF REAR AXLE NOISE
Many noises that seem to come from the rear axle
actually
originate from other sources such as tires,
road surface, wheel bearings, engine, transmission,
muffler,
or body drumming. Investigate to find the
source
ofthe noise before disassembling the rear axle.
Rear axles,
like any other mechanical device, are not
absolutely quiet but should be considered quiet unless
some abnormal noise is present.
To make a systematic check
for axle noise, observe the
following:
1. Select a level asphalt road to reduce tire noise and
body drumming.
2. Check rear axle lubricant level to assure correct
level, and then drive the vehicle far enough to
thoroughly warm up the rear axle lubricant.
3. Note the speed at which noise occurs. Stop the
vehicle and put the transmission in neutral. Run
the engine speed
slowly up and down to
determine if the noise is caused by exhaust,
muffler noise, or other engine conditions.
4. Tire noise changes with different road surfaces;
axle noises do not. Temporarily inflate all tires to
344
kPa (50 psi) (for test purposes only). This will
change noise caused by tires but will not affect
noise caused by the rear
axle.
Rear axle nose usually stops when coasting at
speeds under
48 km/h (30 mph); however, tire
noise continues
with a lower tone. Rear axle noise
usually changes when comparing pull and coast,
but tire noise stays about the same.
Distinguish between tire noise and rear
axle noise
by noting
if the noise changes with various
speeds
or sudden acceleration and deceleration.
Exhaust and
axle noise vary under these
conditions,
while tire noise remains constant and
is more pronounced at speeds
of 32 to 48 km/h
(20 to 30 mph). Further check for tire noise by
driving the vehicle
over smooth pavements or dirt
roads (not gravel) with the tires at normal
pressure.
If the noise is caused by tires, it will
change noticeably with changes in road surface.
5. Loose or rough front wheel bearings will cause
noise
which may be confused with rear axle
noise; however, front wheel bearing noise does
not change when comparing drive and coast.
Light application
of the brake while holding
vehicle speed steady
will often cause wheel
bearing noise to diminish. Front wheel bearings
may be checked for noise by jacking up the
wheels and spinning them
or by shaking the
wheels
to determine if bearings are loose.
6. Rear suspension rubber bushings and spring
insulators dampen
out rear axle noise when
correctly installed. Check to see that there is no
link or rod loosened or metal-to-metal contact.
7. Make sure that there is no metal-to-metal contact
between the
floor and the frame.
After the noise has been determined to be in the axle,
the type of axle noise should be determined, in order to
make any necessary repairs.
GEAR NOISE
Gear noise (whine) is audible from 32 to 89 km/h (20 to
55 mph) under four driving conditions.
1. In drive under acceleration or heavy pull.
2. Driving under load or under constant speed.
3. When using enough throttle to keep the vehicle
from driving the engine while the vehicle slows
down gradually (engine still pulls slightly).
4. When coasting with the vehicle in gear and the
throttle closed. The gear noise is
usually more
noticeable between 48 and 64
km/h (30 and 40
mph) and 80 and 89 km/h (50 and 55 mph).
BEARING NOISE
Bad bearings generally produce a rough growl or
grating sound, rather than the whine typical of gear
noise. Bearing noise frequently
"wow-wows" at
bearing rpm, indicating a bad pinion
or rear axle side
bearing. This noise can
be confused with rear wheel
bearing noise.
REAR WHEEL BEARING NOISE
Rear wheel bearing noise continues to be heard while
coasting at low speed with transmission in the neutral.
Noise may diminish by gentle braking. Jack up the rear
wheels, spin them by hand and
listen for noise at the
hubs. Replace any faulty
wheel bearings.
KNOCK AT LOW SPEEDS
Low speed knock can be caused by worn universal
joints or a side gear hub counter bore in the cage that is
worn oversize. Inspect and replace universal joints or
cage and side gears as required.
BACKLASH CLUNK
Excessive clunk on acceleration and deceleration can
be caused by a worn rear axle pinion shaft, a worn
cage, excessive clearance between the axle and the
side gear splines, excessive clearance between the
side gear hub and the counterbore in the cage,
worn
pinion and side gear teeth, worn thrust washers, or
excessive drive pinion and ring gear backlash.
Remove
worn parts and replace as required. Select
close-fitting parts when possible. Adjust pinion and
ring gear backlash.

HYDRAULIC BRAKES SA-1
BRAKES
w CAUTION:
• All
brake attaching fasteners are an important attaching part in that they could affect performance of vital
parts and systems, and/or could result in major repair expense. They must be replaced with one of the same
part
number or with an equivalent part if replacement becomes necessary. Do not use replacement parts of
lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to assure
proper retention
of these parts.
CONTENTS
Hydraulic Brakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Section SA
Brake Booster System ........................................................ Section 5A1
Disc Brakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Section 5A2
Rear
Wheel Antilock Brake System (RWAL) .................................... Section 5A3
4-Wheel Antilock Brake System (ABS) ......................................... Section 5A4
Parking Brakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Section 5C
SECTION 5A
HYDRAULIC BRAKES
CONTENTS
Brake System Diagnosis ................ SA-2
Road
Testing the Brakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SA-2
Brake
Fluid Leaks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SA-2
Warning Light Operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . SA-2
Antilock Brake System (RWAL or ABS) . SA- 2
Diagnosis of Brake System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SA-3
On-Vehicle Service .................... SA- S
Filling Master Cylinder Reservoir . . . . . . . SA-S
Deterioration of Brake Fluid . . . . . . . . . . . SA-S
Leakage
of Brake Fluid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SA-S
Bleeding Brake Hydraulic System . . . . . . SA-S
Flushing Brake Hydraulic System . . . . . . SA-6
Brake Pipes
and Hoses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SA-6
Brake Hose
Inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SA-6
Brake Hose
Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . SA-7
Brake Pipe
Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SA-8
Combination Valve/P & B Valve . . . . . . . SA-9
Valve Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SA-1 0
Inspection of Brake Pad Lining . . . . . . . . SA-11
Inspection of Brake Rotors . . . . . . . . . . . . SA-11
Brake Pedal Assembly .................. SA-13 •
Checking Pedal Height ................ SA-13
Checking Pedal Travel ................ SA-13
Brake
Pedal Replacement ............. SA-14
Stoplight Switch Replacement ......... SA-1S
Master Cylinder Assembly ............... SA-16
General Description .................. SA-16
On-Vehicle Service ................... SA-17
Unit Repair .......................... SA-19
Main Data and Specifications ............ SA-21
General Specifications ................ SA-21
Torque Specifications ................ SA-21
Special Tools .......................... SA-22

SA-2 HYDRAULIC BRAKES
BRAKE SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
ROAD TESTING THE BRAKES
Brake Test
Brakes should be tested on a dry, clean, reasonably
smooth and
level roadway. A true test of brake
performance cannot be made
if the roadway is
wet, greasy
or covered with loose dirt so that all
tires do not grip the road equally. Testing will also
be adversely affected if the roadway is crowned so
as to throw the weight of the vehicle toward
wheels on one side or if the roadway is so rough
that wheels tend to bounce. Test the brakes at dif­
ferent vehicle speeds with both light and heavy
pedal pressure; however, avoid locking the wheels
and sliding the tires. Locked wheels and sliding
tires do not indicate brake efficiency, since heavily
braked but turning wheels will stop the vehicle in
less distance than locked wheels. More tire-to-road
friction is present
with a heavily braked turning tire
then
with a sliding tire.
The standard brake system is designed and
balanced
to avoid locking the wheels except at very high
deceleration
levels.
It
is designed this way because the shortest stopping
distance and best
control is achieved without brake
lock-up.
Because of high deceleration capability, a firmer pedal
may be felt at higher deceleration levels.
External Conditions That Affect Brake
Performance
1.
2.
3.
Tires: Tires having unequal contact and grip on
the road
will cause unequal braking. Tires must
be equally inflated, identical in size, and the tread
pattern
of right and left tires must be approxi­
mately equal.
Vehicle loading:
A heavily loaded vehicle requires
more braking effort.
Wheel Alignment: Misalignment of the wheels,
particularly
in regard to excessive camber and
caster,
will cause the brakes to pull to one side.
BRAKE FLUID LEAKS
With engine running at idle and the transmission in
"Neutral", depress the brake pedal and hold a constant
foot pressure on the pedal. If pedal gradually falls
away with the constant pressure, the hydraulic system
may be leaking.
Check the master cylinder fluid level. While a slight
drop in reservoir level will result from normal lining
wear, an abnormally low level in reservoir indicates a
leak in the system. The hydraulic system may be
leaking internally as well as externally. Refer to
"Master Cylinder Inspection". Also, the system may
appear
to pass this test but still have slight leakage. If
fluid level
is normal, check the vacuum booster
push rod
length. If an incorrect length push rod is
found, adjust
or replace the push rod. Check the
brake
pedal travel and the parking brake adjust­
ment.
When checking the
fluid level, the master cylinder fluid
level
may be low from the "MAX" mark if the front and
rear
linings are worn. This is not abnormal.
WARNING LIGHT OPERATION
When the ignition switch is in the START position,
the
"BRAKE" warning light should glow and go off
when the ignition switch returns to the ON position.
The
following conditions will activate the "BRAKE"
light:
1. Parking brake applied. The light should be on
whenever the parking brake is applied and the
ignition switch is on.
2. Low fluid level. A low fluid level in the master
cylinder will turn the "BRAKE" light on (Except
Rear
Wheel Antilock Brake System (RWAL)
model).
3. During engine cranking the "BRAKE" light
should
remain on. This notifies the driver that
the warning circuit is operating properly.
4. In the event of a front or rear system malfunc­
tion (RWAL model only).
5. In the event of RWAL malfunction (RWAL
model only. Refer to Section 5A3).
ANTILOCK BRAKE SYSTEM (RWAL or
ABS}
Refer to Section 5A3 or 5A4 for inspection and di­
agnosis procedure of the hydraulic unit.
..

HYDRAULIC BRAKES 5A-3
DIAGNOSIS OF BRAKE SYSTEM
Condition
Possible Cause Correction
Brake
Pull 1. Tire inflation pressures unequal. 1. Adjust
2. Front wheel alignment incorrect. 2. Adjust
3. Unmatched tires on same axle. 3. Tires with approx. the same amount of
tread should be used on the same axle.
4. Restricted brake pipes or hoses. 4. Check for soft hoses and damaged
lines. Replace with new hoses and new
double-walled steel brake piping.
5. Water or oil on brake pads. 5. Clean or replace.
6. Brake pads hardened. 6. Replace.
7. Brake pads worn excessively. 7. Replace.
8. Brake rotor worn or scored. 8. Grind or replace.
9. Disc brake caliper malfunctioning. 9. Clean or replace.
10. Front hub bearing preload incorrect. 10. Adjust or replace.
11. Loose suspension parts. 11. Check all suspension mountings.
12. Loose
calipers. 12. Check and tighten bolts to specifi-
cations.
Brake 1. Excessive lateral runout. 1. Check per instructions.
Roughness-or If not within specifications, replace or
Chatter machine the rotor.
(Pulsates) 2. Parallelism not within specifications. 2. Check per instructions.
If not within specifications, replace or
machine the rotor.
3. Wheel bearings not adjusted. 3. Adjust wheel bearings to correct
specifications.
4. Pad reversed (steel against iron). 4. Replace brake pad and machine rotor
to within specifications.
Excessive Pedal 1. Malfunctioning vacuum booster. 1. Check vacuum booster operation and
Effort repair, if necessary.
2. Partial system failure. 2. Check front and rear brake system for
failure and repair. Also, check brake
warning
light. If a failed system
is
found, the
light should indicate a
failure.
3. Excessively worn pad. 3. Check and replace pads in sets.
4. Piston in caliper stuck or sluggish. 4. Remove caliper and rebuild.
5. Fading brakes due to incorrect pad. 5. Remove and replace with original
equipment pad or equivalent.
6. Vacuum leak to vacuum booster. 4. Check for ruptured or loose hose.
7. Check direction of check valve within 5. Correct vacuum hose direction.
vacuum hose.
8. Grease on the brake pads. 6. Replace or clean.
Excessive Brake 1. Air in hydraulic circuit. 1. Bleed hydraulic circuit.
Pedal Travel 2. Level of brake fluid in reservoir too low. 2. Replenish brake fluid reservoir to speci-
fied
level and bleed hydraulic circuit as
necessary.
3. Master cylinder push rod clearance ex-3. Adjust.
cessive.
4. Leakage in hydraulic system. 4. Correct or replace defective parts.

SA-4 HYDRAULIC BRAKES
Condition Possible Cause Correction
Brake Drag
1. Master cylinder pistons not returning 1. Adjust stop light switch and vacuum
correctly. booster operating rod. If necessary,
rebuild.
2. Restricted brake pipes or hoses. 2. Check for soft hoses or damaged pipes,
and
replace with new hoses and new
double-walled steel brake piping.
3. Parking brake maladjusted. 3. Adjust.
4. Parking brake lining clearance 4. Adjust
insufficient.
5. Brake pedal free play insufficient. 5. Adjust brake pedal height or power
cylinder operating rod.
6. Piston in master cylinder sticking. 6. Replace.
7. Piston in disc brake caliper sticking. 7. Replace piston seals.
8. Brake pads sticking in caliper. 8. Clean.
9. Return spring weakened. 9. Replace.
10. Praking brake binding. 10. Overhaul parking brakes and correct.
11. Front hub bearing preload incorrect. 11.
Adjust or replace.
12. Parking brake shoes not returning. 12.
Correct or replace brake back plate and
brake shoe
as necessary.
13. Obstructions in hydraulic circuit. 13. Clean.
14. Rotor warped excessively. 14.
Grind or replace.
15. Rear brake drum distorted. 15.
Grind or replace.
16. Check valve; vacuum hose faulty. 16. Replace.
17. Parking cable sticking. 17. Clean or replace.
Grabbing
or 1. Malfunctioning vacuum booster. 1. Check operation and correct as
Uneven Braking necessary.
Action
(All 2. Binding brake pedal mechanism. 2. Check and lubricate, if necessary.
conditions
3. Corroded caliper assembly. 3. Clean and lubricate.
listed
under
"Pulls")
Brake Noisy 1 . Brake pads worn. 1. Replace.
2. Brake pads hardened. 2. Replace.
3. Brake pads in poor contact with rotor. 3. Correct.
4. Brake disc(s) warped, worn or 4. Grind or replace.
damaged.
5. Disc brake anti-squeak shims fatigued. 5. Replace.
6. Front hub bearings loose or preload is 6. Adjust or replace.
incorrect.
7. Brake disc rusted. 7. Grind or replace.
Poor Brake 1. Master cylinder faulty. 1. Correct or replace.
Action 2. Vacuum booster faulty. 2. Correct or replace.
3. Level of brake fluid in reservoir too 3. Replenish and bleed.
low.
4. Air in hydraulic circuit. 4. Bleed.
5. Disc brake caliper faulty. 5. Clean or replace.
6. Water or oil on brake pads. 6. Clean or replace.
7. Brake pads in poor contact with rotor. 7. Correct.
8. Brake pads worn. 8. Replace.
9. Brake disc rusted. 9. Grind or replace.
10. Check valve in vacuum hose faulty. 10. Correct or replace.
•

5A-6 HYDRAULIC BRAKES
NOTE:
Do not allow the fluid level in the reservoir to go below
the half-way mark.
12. Reconnect the brake pipe
(j) to the master
cylinder and tighten the pipe.
13. Depress the brake pedal
slowly once and hold it
depressed.
14. Loosen the rear wheel brake pipe (j) at the master
cylinder (Fig. 5A-1).
15. Retighten the brake pipe, then release the brake
pedal
slowly.
16. Repeat steps 13 through 15 until no air comes out
from the port when the brake pipe is loosened.
NOTE:
Be very careful not to allow the brake fluid to come in
contact
with painted surfaces.
17. Bleed the air from the front wheel brake pipe
connection
® by repeating steps 7 through 16
(Fig.
5A-1 ).
Fig. 5A-1
Bleeding the caliper
18. Bleed the air from each wheel in the order listed
below.
• Right rear caliper
• Left rear caliper
• Right front caliper
• Left front caliper
If brake fluid does not come out or brake fluid does
not remain in the master cylinder while bleeding
each
caliper in the order listed above, the master
cylinder may contain air in its bore. First bleed the
master cylinder
as described in step 7 through 17.
19.
Place the proper size box end wrench over the
bleeder screw.
20. Cover the bleeder screw with a transparent tube,
and submerge the free end
of the transparent
tube in a transparent container containing brake
fluid.
21. Pump the brake pedal slowly three (3) times
(once/sec), then
hold it depressed.
22. Loose the bleeder screw until fluid flows through
the tube.
23. Retighten the bleeder screw.
24. Release the brake pedal slowly.
25. Repeat step 21 through 24 until the air is com­
pletely removed.
It may be necessary to repeat
the bleeding procedure
10 or more times for front
wheels and 15 or more times for rear wheels.
26. Go to the next wheel in the sequence after each
wheel is bled.
Be sure to monitor reservoir fluid
level.
27. Depress the brake pedal to check if you feel
"sponginess" after the air has been removed from
all wheel cylinders and calipers. If the pedal feels
"spongy", the entire bleeding procedure must be
repeated.
28. After the bleeding operation is completed on each
individual wheel, check the level
of brake fluid in
the reservoir and replenish up to the
"MAX" level
if necessary.
29. Attach the reservoir cap.
• If the diaphragm inside the cap is deformed,
reform
it and install.
30. Stop the engine.
FLUSHING BRAKE HYDRAULIC SYSTEM
It is recommended that the entire hydraulic system be
thoroughly flushed with clean brake fluid whenever
new parts are
installed in the hydraulic system.
Approximately one quart
of fluid is required to flush the
hydraulic system.
The system
must be flushed if there is any doubt as to
the grade
of fluid in the system or iffluid has been used
which contains the
slightest trace of mineral oil. All
rubber parts that have been subjected to a con­
taminated fluid
must be replaced.
BRAKE PIPES AND HOSES
The hydraulic brake system components are inter­
connected
by special steel piping and flexible hoses.
Flexible hoses are used between the frame and the
front calipers, the frame and rear axle case and the rear
axle and the rear calipers.
When the hydraulic pipes have been disconnected
for
any reason, the brake system must be bled after
reconnecting the pipe; refer to
"Bleeding the Brake
Hydraulic
System" in this section.
BRAKE HOSE INSPECTION
The brake hoses should be inspected at least twice a
year. The brake hose assembly should
be checked for
road hazard, cracks and chafing ofthe outer cover, and
for leaks and blisters. Inspect for proper routing and
mounting
of the hose. A brake hose that rubs on
suspension components
will wear and eventually fail.
A light and mirror may be needed for an adequate
inspection.
If any of the above conditions are observed
on the brake hose, adjust
or replace the hose as
necessary.
\fl CAUTION:
'V Never allow brake components such as calipers
to hang from the brake hoses, as damage to the
hoses may occur.