flat tire ISUZU TROOPER 1995 User Guide

WHEELS AND TIRES 3E-5
0
Shoulder wear (generally
wear develops in outer
shoulder).
I
I I
Camber or toe-in incor- Shoulder
wear caused by
rect repeated hard-cornering
,. .........
Wear in shoulders at
points
opposed to each
other
......
""""" I
I I
Tire or wheel out of Play in bearings or ball
round or distorted joint
~
Premature wear
in
shoulders
Flexing
of tire excessive due
to under-inflation
~
One-sided feather edg-
ing
I
l -I
Wear caused
by
repe- Camber or toe-in incor-
ated hard-cornering
rect
Fig. 3E-7

WHEELS AND TIRES 3E-1
TIRES
REPLACEMENT
UNIT REPAIR
WHEELS
REPLACEMENT
When replacement is necessary, the original metric
the size should be used. Most metric tire sizes do not
have exact corresponding alphanumeric tire sizes. It
is recommended that new tires be installed in pairs on
the same axle. If necessary to replace only one tire, it
should be paired with tire having the most tread, to
equalize braking traction.
w CAUTION:
Do not mix different types of tires such as radial,
bias and bias-belted tires except in emergencies,
because
vehicle handling may be seriously
affected and may result in loss of control.
TIRE DISMOUNTING
Remove valve cap on valve step and deflate the tire.
Then use a
tire changing machine to mount or
dismount tires.
Follow the equipment manufacturer's instruction. Do
not use hand tools or tire lever alone to change tires
as they may damage the tire beads or wheel rim.
TIRE MOUNTING
Rim bead seats should be cleaned with a wire brush
....._., or coarse steel wool to remove lubricants, and light
rust. Before mounting a tire, the bead area should be
well lubricated with an approved tire lubricant.
After mounting, inflate the tire to 196kPa (28 psi) so
that beads are completely seated. Inflate the air to
specified pressure and install valve cap to the stem.
\f WARNING:
Never stand over tire when inflating. Bead may
break when bead snaps over rim's safety hump
and cause serious personal injury.
Never exceed
240 kPa (35 psi) pressure when
inflating. If 240 kPa (35 psi) pressure will not
seat beads, deflate, re-lubricate and re-inflate.
Over
inflation may cause the bead to break and
cause serious
personal injury.
TIRE REPAIR
There are many different materials on the market
used to repair tires.
Manufacturers have published detailed instructions
on how and when to repair tires. These instructions
can be obtained from the tire manufacturer if they are
not included with the repair kit. Damaged
wheels and wheels with excessive run-out
must be replaced.
Fig. 3E-10
Wheel
run-out at rim
Steel Aluminum
@ Vertical play: 1.5 (0.059) 0.7
(0.028) Less than mm(in)
@ Horizontal play: 1.5 (0.059) 0.7
(0.028) Less than mm(in)

3E-8 WHEELS AND TIRES
GENERAL BALANCE PROCEDURE
Deposits of mud, etc. must be cleaned from the inside
of the rim.
The tire should be inspected
for the following: match
mount paint marks, bent rims, bulges, irregular tire
wear, proper
wheel size and inflation pressure. Then
balance according to the equipment manufacturer's
recommendations.
There are
two types of wheel and tire balance.
Static balance is the equal distribution
of weight
around the wheel.
Assemblies
that are statically unbalanced cause a
bouncing action
called tramp. This condition will
eventually
cause uneven tire wear (Fig. 3E-11 ).
Dynamic balance is the equal distribution of weight on
each side
of the wheel center-line so that when the tire
spins there
is no tendency for the assembly to move
from side to side. Assemblies that are dynamically
unbalanced may cause shimmy (Fig. 3E-12).
Heavy spot wheel shimmy
Heavy spot wheel tramp
WARNING
Add balance weights here
Corrective weights
Fig. 3E-11
Add balance
weights here
Corrective weights
Fig. 3E-12
Stones should
be removed from the tread to
avoid operator injury during spin balancing and
to obtain a
good balance.
BALANCING WHEEL AND TIRE
ON-VEHICLE
BALANCING
On-Vehicle balancing methods vary with equipment
and tool manufacturers. Be sure to follow each
manufacturer's instructions during balancing
operation.
OFF-VEHICLE BALANCING
Most electronic off-vehicle balancers are more
accurate than the on-vehicle spin balancers. They are
easy to use and give a dynamic balance. Although
they
do not correct for drum or disc unbalance (as on­
vehicle
spin balancing does), they are very accurate
(Fig. 3E-13).
Fig. 3E-13

3F4-6 SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM ISRSI STEERING WHEEL & COLUMN
2. Horn lead
3. Steering wheel fixing nut
4. Steering wheel
• Apply a setting mark across the steering
wheel and shaft so parts can be reassembled
in
their original position (Fig. 3F4-10)
•
Use special tool. Remove the steering wheel.
Move the tires to the straight ahead position
before removing
the steering wheel (Fig. 3F4-
11 ).
1®.1 Steering wheel remover: J-29752
Setting mark
Fig. 3F4-10
Fig. 3F4-11
"fCAUTION:
Never apply force to the steering wheel in
direction
ofthe shaft by using a hammer or other
impacttools in an attemptto remove the steering
wheel. The steering shaft is designed as an
energy absorbing unit.
B INSTALLATION
4. Steering wheel
• Align the setting marks made when re­
moving.
"f CAUTION:
3.
~
2.
1.
~
Never apply force to the steering wheel in
direction
of the shaft by using a hammer or other
impacttools in an attemptto remove the steering
wheel. The steering shaft is designed as an
energy absorbing unit.
Steering wheel fixing nut
• Tighten the steering wheel fixing nut to the
specified torque.
Torque
N-m (lb·ft) 34 (25)
Horn
lead
Inflator module
• Support the module and carefully connect the
module connector.
NOTE:
Pass the lead wire through the tabs on the plastic
cover (wire protector) of inflator to prevent lead
wire from being pinches.
• Secure the module with one bolt to relieve
weight on the connector wire.
• Tighten bolts to specified sequence as figure
(Fig. 3F4-12).
Torque
N·m (lb-in) 8 (69)
• Connect the yellow 3way SRS connector located
under the steering column.
• Connect the battery"-" terminal cable.
• Set ignition to "ON• while watching warning light.
Light
should flash 7 times and then go off. If lamp
does not operate correctly, refer to Section 9J.
Fig. 3F4-12
~
•

3F4-8 SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM (SRS) STEERING WHEEL & COLUMN
W WARNING
THE INFLATOR MODULE SHOULD ALWAYS BE
CARRIED WITH THE URETHANE COVER AWAY
FROM YOUR BODY AND SHOULD ALWAYS BE
LAID ON A FLAT SURFACE WITH THE URE­
THANE SIDE UP. THIS IS NECESSARY BE­
CAUSE A FREE SPACE IS PROVIDED TO ALLOW
THE AIR CUSHION TO EXPAND IN THE UN­
LIKELY EVENT
OF ACCIDENTAL DEPLOYMENT.
OTHERWISE, PERSONAL INJURY MAY RESULT
(FIG. 3F4-16).
Fig. 3F4-16
4. Steering wheel
•
Apply a setting mark across the steering
wheel and shaft so parts can be reassembled
in
their original position (Fig. 3F4-17)
• Use special tool. Remove the steering wheel.
Move the tires
to the straight ahead position
before removing the steering wheel (Fig.
3F4-
18).
l®..l Steering wheel remover: J-29752
Setting mark
Fig. 3F4-17 Fig.
3F4-18
\V CAUTION:
Never apply force to the steering wheel in
direction
of the shaft by using a hammer or other
impact
tools in an attempt to remove the steering
wheel. The steering shaft is designed as an
energy absorbing unit.
5. Steering column cover
6. Combination switch and SRS coil assembly
•
Disconnect the wiring harness connectors
located under the steering column.
• Remove the combination switch assembly
with SRS coil (Fig. 3F4-19).
NOTE:
The
SRS coil is a part of the combination switch
assembly, which can
not be replaced separately.
Therefore, be sure
not to remove the SRS coil
from the combination switch assembly.
Fig. 3F4-19
•

3F4-10 SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM (SRS) STEERING WHEEL & COLUMN
LOCK CYLINDER REPLACEMENT
5
i
;;
9 ®
Fig. 3F4-23
E) REMOVAL
4
3
1
Removal steps
1. Front console assembly
2. Steering lower cover
3.1nflator module
4. Steering wheel
5. Steering column cover
6. Combination switch and
SRS coil assembly
7. Snap ring
8. Cushion rubber
9. Shift lock cable (for AfT)
10. Lock cylinder assembly
Installation steps
To install, follow the removal
steps in the reverse order.
• Disconnect the yellow 2way SRS connector
located behind the inflator module.
Preparation:
• Turn the steering wheel so that the
vehicle's wheels are
pointing
straight ahead.
4. Steering wheel
• Turn the ignition switch to "LOCK".
•
Disconnect the battery"-" terminal
cable, and wait at least 5 minutes.
• Disconnect the yellow 3way SRS
connector located under the steering
column.
• Apply a setting mark across the steering
wheel and
shaft so parts can be reassembled
in
their original position (Fig. 3F4-24)
• Use special tool. Remove the steering wheel.
Move the tires to the straight ahead position
before removing the steering wheel (Fig. 3F4-
25).
W CAUTION: 1®.1 Steering wheel remover: J-29752
The wheels
of the vehicle must be straight ahead
and the steering
column in the "LOCK" position
before disconnecting the steering wheel. Failure
Setting mark
to do so will cause the coil assembly to become
uncentered
which will cause damage to the coil
assembly.
1.
Front console assembly
• Remove the transmission (for Mff) and
transfer
control lever knob.
• Disconnect the wiring harness connectors.
2. Steering lower cover
• Remove the engine hood opening lever.
3. SRS module
• Loosen the inflator module fixing bolt from behind
the steering wheel assembly using a
TORXe driver
or equivalent until the inflator module can be
released from steering assembly. Fig.
3F4-24
•

3F4-14 SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM (SRS) STEERING WHEEL & COLUMN
EJREMOVAL
Preparation: • Turn the steering wheel so that the
vehicle's
wheels are pointing straight
ahead.
• Turn the ignition switch to "LOCK".
•
Disconnect the battery "-" terminal
cable,
and wait at least 5 minutes.
• Disconnect the yellow 3way SRS
connector located under the steering
column.
wcAUTION:
The wheel of the vehicle must be straight ahead
and the steering
column in the "LOCK• position
before disconnecting the steering
column from
the steering gear.
Failure to do so will cause the SRS coil assembly
to become uncentered which will cause damage
to the SRS coil assembly.
1. Front console assembly
• Disconnect the transmission (for MfT) and
transfer
control lever knob.
• Disconnect the wiring harness connectors.
2. Steering lower cover
• Remove the engine hood opening lever.
3. Driver knee bolster (reinforcement)
4. Inflator module (Fig.3F4-32)
• Loosen the inflator module fixing bolt from behind
the steering
wheel assembly using a TORX® driver
or
equivalent until the inflator module can be
released from steering assembly.
•
Disconnect the yellow 2way SRS connector
located behind the inflator module.
Fig. 3F4-32
\V WARNING
THE INFLATOR MODULE SHOULD ALWAYS BE
CARRIED WITH THE URETHANE COVER AWAY
FROM YOUR BODY AND SHOULD ALWAYS BE
LAID ON A FLAT SURFACE WITH THE URE­
THANE SIDE UP. THIS IS NECESSARY BE­
CAUSE A FREE SPACE IS PROVIDED TO ALLOW
THE AIR CUSHION TO EXPAND IN THE UN­
LIKELY EVENT OF ACCIDENTAL DEPLOYMENT.
OTHERWISE, PERSONALINJURYMAYRESULT
(FIG.3F4-33).
Fig. 3F4-33
5. Steering wheel
• Apply a setting mark across the steering
wheel and shaft so parts can be reassembled
in their original position (Fig. 3F4-34)
• Use special tool. Remove the steering wheel.
move the tires to the straight ahead position
before removing the steering
wheel (Fig. 3F4-
35).
1®.1 Steering wheel remover: J-29752
Setting mark
Fig. 3F4-34
..

REAR AXLE 48-3
DIAGNOSIS OF REAR AXLE NOISE
Many noises that seem to come from the rear axle
actually
originate from other sources such as tires,
road surface, wheel bearings, engine, transmission,
muffler,
or body drumming. Investigate to find the
source
ofthe noise before disassembling the rear axle.
Rear axles,
like any other mechanical device, are not
absolutely quiet but should be considered quiet unless
some abnormal noise is present.
To make a systematic check
for axle noise, observe the
following:
1. Select a level asphalt road to reduce tire noise and
body drumming.
2. Check rear axle lubricant level to assure correct
level, and then drive the vehicle far enough to
thoroughly warm up the rear axle lubricant.
3. Note the speed at which noise occurs. Stop the
vehicle and put the transmission in neutral. Run
the engine speed
slowly up and down to
determine if the noise is caused by exhaust,
muffler noise, or other engine conditions.
4. Tire noise changes with different road surfaces;
axle noises do not. Temporarily inflate all tires to
344
kPa (50 psi) (for test purposes only). This will
change noise caused by tires but will not affect
noise caused by the rear
axle.
Rear axle nose usually stops when coasting at
speeds under
48 km/h (30 mph); however, tire
noise continues
with a lower tone. Rear axle noise
usually changes when comparing pull and coast,
but tire noise stays about the same.
Distinguish between tire noise and rear
axle noise
by noting
if the noise changes with various
speeds
or sudden acceleration and deceleration.
Exhaust and
axle noise vary under these
conditions,
while tire noise remains constant and
is more pronounced at speeds
of 32 to 48 km/h
(20 to 30 mph). Further check for tire noise by
driving the vehicle
over smooth pavements or dirt
roads (not gravel) with the tires at normal
pressure.
If the noise is caused by tires, it will
change noticeably with changes in road surface.
5. Loose or rough front wheel bearings will cause
noise
which may be confused with rear axle
noise; however, front wheel bearing noise does
not change when comparing drive and coast.
Light application
of the brake while holding
vehicle speed steady
will often cause wheel
bearing noise to diminish. Front wheel bearings
may be checked for noise by jacking up the
wheels and spinning them
or by shaking the
wheels
to determine if bearings are loose.
6. Rear suspension rubber bushings and spring
insulators dampen
out rear axle noise when
correctly installed. Check to see that there is no
link or rod loosened or metal-to-metal contact.
7. Make sure that there is no metal-to-metal contact
between the
floor and the frame.
After the noise has been determined to be in the axle,
the type of axle noise should be determined, in order to
make any necessary repairs.
GEAR NOISE
Gear noise (whine) is audible from 32 to 89 km/h (20 to
55 mph) under four driving conditions.
1. In drive under acceleration or heavy pull.
2. Driving under load or under constant speed.
3. When using enough throttle to keep the vehicle
from driving the engine while the vehicle slows
down gradually (engine still pulls slightly).
4. When coasting with the vehicle in gear and the
throttle closed. The gear noise is
usually more
noticeable between 48 and 64
km/h (30 and 40
mph) and 80 and 89 km/h (50 and 55 mph).
BEARING NOISE
Bad bearings generally produce a rough growl or
grating sound, rather than the whine typical of gear
noise. Bearing noise frequently
"wow-wows" at
bearing rpm, indicating a bad pinion
or rear axle side
bearing. This noise can
be confused with rear wheel
bearing noise.
REAR WHEEL BEARING NOISE
Rear wheel bearing noise continues to be heard while
coasting at low speed with transmission in the neutral.
Noise may diminish by gentle braking. Jack up the rear
wheels, spin them by hand and
listen for noise at the
hubs. Replace any faulty
wheel bearings.
KNOCK AT LOW SPEEDS
Low speed knock can be caused by worn universal
joints or a side gear hub counter bore in the cage that is
worn oversize. Inspect and replace universal joints or
cage and side gears as required.
BACKLASH CLUNK
Excessive clunk on acceleration and deceleration can
be caused by a worn rear axle pinion shaft, a worn
cage, excessive clearance between the axle and the
side gear splines, excessive clearance between the
side gear hub and the counterbore in the cage,
worn
pinion and side gear teeth, worn thrust washers, or
excessive drive pinion and ring gear backlash.
Remove
worn parts and replace as required. Select
close-fitting parts when possible. Adjust pinion and
ring gear backlash.

4C-2 FRONT DRIVING AXLE
DIAGNOSIS OF FRONT DRIVING AXLE
PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
Oil
Leak At Front 1. Worn or defective oil seal. 1. Replace the oil seal.
Axle 2. Front axle housing cracked. 2. Repair or replace.
Oil Leak At Pinion 1. Too much gear oil. 1. Correct the oil level.
Shaft 2. Oil seal worn or defective. 2. Replace the oil seal.
3. Pinion flange loose or damaged. 3. Tighten or replace.
Noises In Front Axle Broken or worn drive shaft joints and Replace
the drive shaft joints and
Drive Shaft Joint bellows (BJ and DOJ) bellows.
"Clank" When Ac-1. Loose drive shaft joint to output shaft 1. Tighten.
celerating From bolts.
"Coast" 2. Damaged inner drive shaft joint. 2. Replace.
Shudder or Vibration 1. Excessive drive shaft joint angle. 1. Repair.
During Acceleration 2. Worn or damaged drive shaft joints. 2. Replace.
3. Sticking spider assembly (inner drive 3. Lubricate or replace.
shaft joint).
4. Sticking joint assembly (outer drive 4. Lubricate or replace.
shaft joint).
Vibration At 1. Out of balance or out of round tires. 1. Balance or replace.
Highway Speeds 2. Front end out of alignment. 2. Align.
Noises in Front Axle 1. Insufficient gear oil. 1. Replenish the gear oil.
2. Wrong or poor grade gear oil. 2. Replace the gear oil.
3. Drive pinion to ring gear backlash 3. Adjust the backlash.
incorrect.
4. Worn or chipped ring gear, pinion 4. Replace the ring gear, pinion gear
gear
or side gear. or side gear.
5. Pinion shaft bearing worn. 5. Replace the pinion shaft bearing.
6. Wheel bearing worn. 6. Replace the wheel bearing.
7. Differential bearing loose or worn. 7. Tighten or replace.
Wanders and Pulls 1. Wheel bearing preload too tight. 1. Adjust the wheel bearing preload.
2. Incorrect front alignment. 2. Adjust the front alignment.
3. Steering linkage loose or worn. 3. Tighten or replace.
4. Steering gear out of adjustment. 4. Adjust or replace the steering
gear.
5. Tire worn or improperly inflated. 5. Adjust the inflation or replace.
6. Front or rear suspension parts loose 6. Tighten or replace.
or broken.
Front Wheel Shimmy 1. Wheel bearing worn or improperly 1. Adjust or replace.
adjusted.
2. Incorrect front alignment. 2. Adjust the front alignment.
3. Worn ball joint or bush. 3. Replace the ball joint or bush.
4. Steering linkage loose or worn. 4. Tighten or replace.
5. Steering gear out of adjustment. 5. Tighten or replace.
6. Tire worn or improperly inflated. 6. Replace or adjust the inflation.
7. Shock absorber worn. 7. Replace the shock absorber.
..

SA-2 HYDRAULIC BRAKES
BRAKE SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
ROAD TESTING THE BRAKES
Brake Test
Brakes should be tested on a dry, clean, reasonably
smooth and
level roadway. A true test of brake
performance cannot be made
if the roadway is
wet, greasy
or covered with loose dirt so that all
tires do not grip the road equally. Testing will also
be adversely affected if the roadway is crowned so
as to throw the weight of the vehicle toward
wheels on one side or if the roadway is so rough
that wheels tend to bounce. Test the brakes at dif­
ferent vehicle speeds with both light and heavy
pedal pressure; however, avoid locking the wheels
and sliding the tires. Locked wheels and sliding
tires do not indicate brake efficiency, since heavily
braked but turning wheels will stop the vehicle in
less distance than locked wheels. More tire-to-road
friction is present
with a heavily braked turning tire
then
with a sliding tire.
The standard brake system is designed and
balanced
to avoid locking the wheels except at very high
deceleration
levels.
It
is designed this way because the shortest stopping
distance and best
control is achieved without brake
lock-up.
Because of high deceleration capability, a firmer pedal
may be felt at higher deceleration levels.
External Conditions That Affect Brake
Performance
1.
2.
3.
Tires: Tires having unequal contact and grip on
the road
will cause unequal braking. Tires must
be equally inflated, identical in size, and the tread
pattern
of right and left tires must be approxi­
mately equal.
Vehicle loading:
A heavily loaded vehicle requires
more braking effort.
Wheel Alignment: Misalignment of the wheels,
particularly
in regard to excessive camber and
caster,
will cause the brakes to pull to one side.
BRAKE FLUID LEAKS
With engine running at idle and the transmission in
"Neutral", depress the brake pedal and hold a constant
foot pressure on the pedal. If pedal gradually falls
away with the constant pressure, the hydraulic system
may be leaking.
Check the master cylinder fluid level. While a slight
drop in reservoir level will result from normal lining
wear, an abnormally low level in reservoir indicates a
leak in the system. The hydraulic system may be
leaking internally as well as externally. Refer to
"Master Cylinder Inspection". Also, the system may
appear
to pass this test but still have slight leakage. If
fluid level
is normal, check the vacuum booster
push rod
length. If an incorrect length push rod is
found, adjust
or replace the push rod. Check the
brake
pedal travel and the parking brake adjust­
ment.
When checking the
fluid level, the master cylinder fluid
level
may be low from the "MAX" mark if the front and
rear
linings are worn. This is not abnormal.
WARNING LIGHT OPERATION
When the ignition switch is in the START position,
the
"BRAKE" warning light should glow and go off
when the ignition switch returns to the ON position.
The
following conditions will activate the "BRAKE"
light:
1. Parking brake applied. The light should be on
whenever the parking brake is applied and the
ignition switch is on.
2. Low fluid level. A low fluid level in the master
cylinder will turn the "BRAKE" light on (Except
Rear
Wheel Antilock Brake System (RWAL)
model).
3. During engine cranking the "BRAKE" light
should
remain on. This notifies the driver that
the warning circuit is operating properly.
4. In the event of a front or rear system malfunc­
tion (RWAL model only).
5. In the event of RWAL malfunction (RWAL
model only. Refer to Section 5A3).
ANTILOCK BRAKE SYSTEM (RWAL or
ABS}
Refer to Section 5A3 or 5A4 for inspection and di­
agnosis procedure of the hydraulic unit.
..