suspension ISUZU TROOPER 1995 Service Manual
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: ISUZU, Model Year: 1995, Model line: TROOPER, Model: ISUZU TROOPER 1995Pages: 1928
Page 194 of 1928

30-8 REAR SUSPENSION
CENTER LINK
2
Removal steps
1. Speed sensor cable
• If equipped with Antilock Brake System (ABS)
2. Speed sensor
cable bracket (If equipped with ABS)
3.
Bolt and nut 4. Center link
Installation
steps
To
install, follow the removal steps in the reverse order.
1•+1 REMOVAL
Fig. 30-11
NOTE:
1.
2.
3.
Speed sensor cable (If equipped with ABS)
• Remove the speed sensor cable from the
center
link.
Speed sensor cable bracket (If equipped with
ABS)
• Remove the speed sensor cable bracket from
the frame.
Bolt and nut
4. Center link
~ INSPECTION AND REPAIR
Make necessary correction or parts replacement if
wear, damage, corrosion or any other abnormal
condition are found through inspection.
1. Center link
2. Rubber bushing
• Remove the rubber bushing (Fig. 30-12).
1®1 Remover : J-39214
• Install the rubber bushing (Fig. 30-13).
!®..I Installer : J-39214
When mounting rubber bushings, be sure not to use
grease on bushings
or any other nearby part.
J-39214-2
J-39214·1
Fig. 30-12
..
Page 195 of 1928

r-:::::1 )--~
Fig. 30-13
I•+ I INSTALLATION
4. Center link
r=l • Make sure that the center link is in its correct
1.=.1 position (Fig. 30-14).
NOTE:
When mounting center link, be sure not to use grease
bushings
or any other nearby part.
3. Bolt and nut
NOTE:
Tighten the bolts and nuts lightly, and retighten to the
specified torque after the
vehicle is at curb height.
~~~ Torque N·m (lb·ft) /
2. Speed sensor cable bracket
1. Speed sensor cable
UP
Fig. 30-14 137
(101)
REAR SUSPENSION 30-9
Page 196 of 1928

30-10 REAR SUSPENSION
LATERAL ROD
3. Latera I rod
1. Nut
and washer
Fig. 30-15
EJ REMOVAL
1. Nut and washer
2. Bolt and nut
3. Lateral rod
~ INSPECTION AND REPAIR
Make necessary correction or parts replacement if
wear, damage, corrosion or any other abnormal
condition are found through inspection.
1.
Lateral rod
2. Rubber bushing (Frame side)
• Remove the rubber bushing (Frame side) (Fig.
30-16).
1®..1 Remover: J-39215
• Install the rubber bushing (Frame side) (Fig. 30-
17).
l®..llnstaller: J-39215
NOTE:
When mounting rubber bushings, do not use grease on
bushings
or any other nearby parts. Fig.
30-16
J-39215-2
J-39215·1
Fig. 30-17
3. Rubber bushing (Axle side)
• Remove the rubber bushing (Axle side) (Fig.
30-18).
1®..1 Remover: J-39792
• Install the rubber bushing (Axle side) (Fig. 30-
19).
l®..llnstaller: J-39792
Fig. 30-18
Page 197 of 1928

J-39792-1
Fig. 30-19
1•+1 INSTALLATION
3. Lateral rod
~ • Make sure that the lateral rod is in its correct
~ position (Fig. 30-20).
Frame side
Axle side
Fig. 30-20
NOTE:
When mounting lateral rod, be sure not to use grease
on bushings
or any other nearby part.
2. Bolt and nut
NOTE:
Tighten the bolt and nut lightly, and retighten to the
specified torque after the
vehicle is at curb height.
~~~ Torque N·m (lb·ft)
1. Nut and washer
NOTE:
137 (101)
Tighten the nut lightly, and retighten to the specified
torque after the
vehicle is at curb height.
1~1 Torque N·m (lb·ft) 78 (58)
REAR SUSPENSION 30-11
STABILIZER BAR
2. Link
Fig. 30-21
EJ REMOVAL
Preparation: • Raise the vehicle and support the
frame
with suitable safety stands.
• Remove wheel and tire assembly.
Refer
to "Wheels and tires" in
section
3E.
1. Nut and washer
2. Link
\fl CAUTION:
VI Be careful not to break the ball joint boot.
3. Bracket
4. Rubber bushing
5. Stabilizer bar
[!] INSPECTION AND REPAIR
Make necessary correction or parts replacement if
wear, damage, corrosion or any other abnormal
condition are found through inspection.
• Stabilizer bar
• Rubber bushing
• Link ball joint
Page 198 of 1928

3D -12 REAR SUSPENSION
l+•liNSTALLATION
5. Stabilizer bar
4. Rubber bushing
3. Bracket
~~~ Torque N·m (lb.ft) I 22 (16)
2. Link
1. Nut and washer (Fig. 30-22)
~~~ Torque N-m (lb·ft) I 50 (37)
Fig.
30-22
MAIN DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS
GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS
Rear suspension
Type 4-Link, coil spring type with stabilizer bar.
Coil spring LWB SWB
Free
length mm(in) 402 (15.83) 408.5 (16.08)
Spring diameter mm(in) 12.7 (0.5) 10.2-13.4 (0.40-0.53)
Coil diameter (inner) mm(in) 105 (4.13) 105(4.13)
Effective No.
of turns 5.32 7.52
Total No. of turns 6.82 9.02
Shock absorber
Type Hydraulic, double acting, telescopic
Piston diameter mm(in) 25.0
(0.98)
Stroke
mm(in) 175 (6.89) I 170 (6.69)
Extended
length mm(in) 489 (19.25)
Compressed length mm(in) 314 (12.36) I 319 (12.56)
Stabilizer bar
Diameter 19.0 (0.75)
•
Page 199 of 1928

REAR SUSPENSION 30-13
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
1 1s (sa) 1
Fig. 30-23
SPECIAL TOOLS
ILLUSTRATION TOOL NO.
TOOL NAME ILLUSTRATION TOOL NO.
TOOL NAME
EJ ~
J-39214
Remover and Installer:
Trailing
center link bushing B u
J-39215
Remover and Installer:
Lateral
rod bushing
B u
J-39792
Remover and Installer:
Lateral
rod bushing (axle side)
Page 204 of 1928

3E-4 WHEELS AND TIRES
Typical examples of abnormal tire tread wear and major causes:
CAUTION: Similar wear patterns can be caused by worn suspension parts, misalignment or wheels and
tires, and other suspension
related problems.
I
Tire or wheel out of
round or distorted.
I
Rotating parts
balance
-
10
Spotty wear -wear localized
, on shoulder sections, and in an
extreme cases. the tire
'
becomes polygonal in shape.
I
I I
I
Hub or knuckle out of Play in hub bearings or Rotating parts
round or distorted.
ball joint
-
ro
out of
Tread wear one-sided
Tire or wheel out of round
Localized tread wear
Once spotty wear develops in
tread due to hard braking
or
abrupt starting, localized wear
tends to be promoted.
Fig. 3E-6
balance
I
Hub or knuckle out of round
or distorted
out of
•
Page 245 of 1928

REAR AXLE 48-3
DIAGNOSIS OF REAR AXLE NOISE
Many noises that seem to come from the rear axle
actually
originate from other sources such as tires,
road surface, wheel bearings, engine, transmission,
muffler,
or body drumming. Investigate to find the
source
ofthe noise before disassembling the rear axle.
Rear axles,
like any other mechanical device, are not
absolutely quiet but should be considered quiet unless
some abnormal noise is present.
To make a systematic check
for axle noise, observe the
following:
1. Select a level asphalt road to reduce tire noise and
body drumming.
2. Check rear axle lubricant level to assure correct
level, and then drive the vehicle far enough to
thoroughly warm up the rear axle lubricant.
3. Note the speed at which noise occurs. Stop the
vehicle and put the transmission in neutral. Run
the engine speed
slowly up and down to
determine if the noise is caused by exhaust,
muffler noise, or other engine conditions.
4. Tire noise changes with different road surfaces;
axle noises do not. Temporarily inflate all tires to
344
kPa (50 psi) (for test purposes only). This will
change noise caused by tires but will not affect
noise caused by the rear
axle.
Rear axle nose usually stops when coasting at
speeds under
48 km/h (30 mph); however, tire
noise continues
with a lower tone. Rear axle noise
usually changes when comparing pull and coast,
but tire noise stays about the same.
Distinguish between tire noise and rear
axle noise
by noting
if the noise changes with various
speeds
or sudden acceleration and deceleration.
Exhaust and
axle noise vary under these
conditions,
while tire noise remains constant and
is more pronounced at speeds
of 32 to 48 km/h
(20 to 30 mph). Further check for tire noise by
driving the vehicle
over smooth pavements or dirt
roads (not gravel) with the tires at normal
pressure.
If the noise is caused by tires, it will
change noticeably with changes in road surface.
5. Loose or rough front wheel bearings will cause
noise
which may be confused with rear axle
noise; however, front wheel bearing noise does
not change when comparing drive and coast.
Light application
of the brake while holding
vehicle speed steady
will often cause wheel
bearing noise to diminish. Front wheel bearings
may be checked for noise by jacking up the
wheels and spinning them
or by shaking the
wheels
to determine if bearings are loose.
6. Rear suspension rubber bushings and spring
insulators dampen
out rear axle noise when
correctly installed. Check to see that there is no
link or rod loosened or metal-to-metal contact.
7. Make sure that there is no metal-to-metal contact
between the
floor and the frame.
After the noise has been determined to be in the axle,
the type of axle noise should be determined, in order to
make any necessary repairs.
GEAR NOISE
Gear noise (whine) is audible from 32 to 89 km/h (20 to
55 mph) under four driving conditions.
1. In drive under acceleration or heavy pull.
2. Driving under load or under constant speed.
3. When using enough throttle to keep the vehicle
from driving the engine while the vehicle slows
down gradually (engine still pulls slightly).
4. When coasting with the vehicle in gear and the
throttle closed. The gear noise is
usually more
noticeable between 48 and 64
km/h (30 and 40
mph) and 80 and 89 km/h (50 and 55 mph).
BEARING NOISE
Bad bearings generally produce a rough growl or
grating sound, rather than the whine typical of gear
noise. Bearing noise frequently
"wow-wows" at
bearing rpm, indicating a bad pinion
or rear axle side
bearing. This noise can
be confused with rear wheel
bearing noise.
REAR WHEEL BEARING NOISE
Rear wheel bearing noise continues to be heard while
coasting at low speed with transmission in the neutral.
Noise may diminish by gentle braking. Jack up the rear
wheels, spin them by hand and
listen for noise at the
hubs. Replace any faulty
wheel bearings.
KNOCK AT LOW SPEEDS
Low speed knock can be caused by worn universal
joints or a side gear hub counter bore in the cage that is
worn oversize. Inspect and replace universal joints or
cage and side gears as required.
BACKLASH CLUNK
Excessive clunk on acceleration and deceleration can
be caused by a worn rear axle pinion shaft, a worn
cage, excessive clearance between the axle and the
side gear splines, excessive clearance between the
side gear hub and the counterbore in the cage,
worn
pinion and side gear teeth, worn thrust washers, or
excessive drive pinion and ring gear backlash.
Remove
worn parts and replace as required. Select
close-fitting parts when possible. Adjust pinion and
ring gear backlash.
Page 248 of 1928

48-6 REAR AXLE
1••1 INSTALLATION
17. Differential assembly
• Refer to "DIFFERENTIAL ASSEMBLY" in this
section.
16.
Axle shaft assembly
• Tighten the bearing holder mounting nut to the
specified torque.
~~~ Torque N·m (lb·ft) 74 (54)
• Be sure not to damage the oil seal by the spline
of the shaft.
15. Brake
pipe
14. Antilock brake system (ABS) speed sensor and
harness
• Refer to Section 5A4 "4-WHEEL ANTI-LOCK
BRAKE SYSTEM (ABS)".
13. Brake disc
12. Brake
caliper
• Refer to Section 5A2 "DISC BRAKES".
11.
Axle housing assembly
10. Coil spring and insulator
9. Bolt and nut
• For the procedures in Items 9-5, refer to Section
3D "REAR SUSPENSION".
8. Bolt and nut
7. Nut
6. Nut
5. Nut
4. Brake tube flare nut
• Refer to Section 5A2 "DISC BRAKES".
3a. Rear Wheel Antilock (RWAL) speed sensor,
bracket and harness connector
• Tighten the speed sensor bolt to the specified
torque.
1~1 Torque N-m (lb·ft) j 24 (18)
3. ABS connector and bracket
2. Breather hose
1. Parking brake cable
• Refer to Section 5C "PARKING BRAKES".
Page 280 of 1928

4C-2 FRONT DRIVING AXLE
DIAGNOSIS OF FRONT DRIVING AXLE
PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
Oil
Leak At Front 1. Worn or defective oil seal. 1. Replace the oil seal.
Axle 2. Front axle housing cracked. 2. Repair or replace.
Oil Leak At Pinion 1. Too much gear oil. 1. Correct the oil level.
Shaft 2. Oil seal worn or defective. 2. Replace the oil seal.
3. Pinion flange loose or damaged. 3. Tighten or replace.
Noises In Front Axle Broken or worn drive shaft joints and Replace
the drive shaft joints and
Drive Shaft Joint bellows (BJ and DOJ) bellows.
"Clank" When Ac-1. Loose drive shaft joint to output shaft 1. Tighten.
celerating From bolts.
"Coast" 2. Damaged inner drive shaft joint. 2. Replace.
Shudder or Vibration 1. Excessive drive shaft joint angle. 1. Repair.
During Acceleration 2. Worn or damaged drive shaft joints. 2. Replace.
3. Sticking spider assembly (inner drive 3. Lubricate or replace.
shaft joint).
4. Sticking joint assembly (outer drive 4. Lubricate or replace.
shaft joint).
Vibration At 1. Out of balance or out of round tires. 1. Balance or replace.
Highway Speeds 2. Front end out of alignment. 2. Align.
Noises in Front Axle 1. Insufficient gear oil. 1. Replenish the gear oil.
2. Wrong or poor grade gear oil. 2. Replace the gear oil.
3. Drive pinion to ring gear backlash 3. Adjust the backlash.
incorrect.
4. Worn or chipped ring gear, pinion 4. Replace the ring gear, pinion gear
gear
or side gear. or side gear.
5. Pinion shaft bearing worn. 5. Replace the pinion shaft bearing.
6. Wheel bearing worn. 6. Replace the wheel bearing.
7. Differential bearing loose or worn. 7. Tighten or replace.
Wanders and Pulls 1. Wheel bearing preload too tight. 1. Adjust the wheel bearing preload.
2. Incorrect front alignment. 2. Adjust the front alignment.
3. Steering linkage loose or worn. 3. Tighten or replace.
4. Steering gear out of adjustment. 4. Adjust or replace the steering
gear.
5. Tire worn or improperly inflated. 5. Adjust the inflation or replace.
6. Front or rear suspension parts loose 6. Tighten or replace.
or broken.
Front Wheel Shimmy 1. Wheel bearing worn or improperly 1. Adjust or replace.
adjusted.
2. Incorrect front alignment. 2. Adjust the front alignment.
3. Worn ball joint or bush. 3. Replace the ball joint or bush.
4. Steering linkage loose or worn. 4. Tighten or replace.
5. Steering gear out of adjustment. 5. Tighten or replace.
6. Tire worn or improperly inflated. 6. Replace or adjust the inflation.
7. Shock absorber worn. 7. Replace the shock absorber.
..