Ref 1 JAGUAR XJ6 1997 2.G Owner's Manual

20 Crankcase ventilation
system check
1
Refer to Chapter 6.
21 Drivebelt check and renewal
2
Check
1The drivebelts, or V-belts as they are
sometimes called, are located at the front of
the engine and play an important role in the
overall operation of the vehicle and its
components. Due to their function and
material make-up, the belts are prone to
failure after a period of time and should be
inspected and adjusted periodically to prevent
major engine damage.
2The number of belts used on a particular
vehicle depends on the accessories installed.
The main belt transmits power from the
crankshaft to the water pump, alternator and
the power steering pump. The second belt
transmits power from the crankshaft to the air
conditioning compressor.
3With the engine off, open the bonnet and
locate the drivebelts. With a flashlight, check
each belt for separation of the adhesive
rubber on both sides of the core, core
separation from the belt side, a severed core,
separation of the ribs from the adhesive
rubber, cracking or separation of the ribs, and
torn or worn ribs or cracks in the inner ridges
of the ribs (see illustrations). Also check for
fraying and glazing, which gives the belt a
shiny appearance. Both sides of the belt
should be inspected, which means you will
have to twist the belt to check the underside.
Use your fingers to feel the belt where you
can’t see it. If any of the above conditions are
evident, replace the belt (go to paragraph 7).
4Check the belt tension by pushing firmly on
the belt with your thumb at a distance halfway
between the pulleys and note how far the beltcan be pushed (deflected). Measure this
deflection with a ruler (see illustration). As a
rule of thumb, if the distance from pulley
centre-to- pulley centre is between 7 and
11 inches, the belt should deflect 1/4-inch. If
the belt travels between pulleys spaced 12 to
16 inches apart, the belt should deflect
1/2-inch for a V-belt or 1/4-inch for a
serpentine belt.
Adjustment
5There are two belt tensioning mechanisms.
The first one adjusts the air conditioning
compressor belt, which is accessible from
underneath the car. The second tensioning
mechanism is above the alternator - it adjusts
the tension on the main belt (the water pump,
alternator and power steering pump belt).
6The air conditioning compressor and the
alternator each have a belt tensioning
mechanism and pivot bolt(s) which must be
loosened slightly to enable you to move the
component (see illustrations).
7After the bolts have been loosened, belt
tension can be adjusted by either loosening or
tightening the locknuts on the belt tensioning
adjustment rod (see illustration 21.6a and b).
Move the component away from the engine totighten the belt or toward the engine to loosen
the belt.
8Measure the belt tension using the method
described in paragraph 4. Repeat this
procedure until the drivebelt is adjusted
properly.
Renewal
9To replace a belt, loosen the drivebelt
adjustment rod and pivot bolt as described
above, slip the belt off the crankshaft pulley
and remove it. If you are replacing the
alternator/power steering pump belt, you’ll
have to remove the air conditioning
1•16Every 15 000 miles or 12 months
21.3a Small cracks in the underside of a
serpentine belt are acceptable -
lengthwise cracks, or missing pieces, are
cause for replacement
21.3b Here are some of the more common
problems associated with V-belts (check
the belts very carefully to prevent an
untimely breakdown)
21.4 Measuring drivebelt deflection with a
straightedge and ruler
21.6a To adjust the alternator/power
steering drivebelt, loosen the outer locknut
(arrowed) and the alternator pivot bolt -
turn the inner locknut anti-clockwise to
loosen or clockwise to tighten the belt21.6b To adjust the air conditioning
compressor drivebelt, loosen the outer
locknut (arrowed) and the compressor
pivot bolts - turn the inner locknut anti-
clockwise to loosen or clockwise to
tighten the belt
3261 Jaguar XJ6

compressor belt first because of the way they
are arranged on the crankshaft pulley.
Because of this and because belts tend to
wear out more or less together, it is a good
idea to replace both belts at the same time.
Mark each belt and its appropriate pulley
groove so the new belts can be installed in
their proper positions.
10Take the old belts to the parts store in
order to make a direct comparison for length,
width and design.
11After replacing a ribbed drivebelt, make
sure that it fits properly in the ribbed grooves
in the pulleys (see illustration). It is essential
that the belt be properly centred.
12Adjust the belt(s) in accordance with the
procedure outlined above.
22 Front wheel bearing check
and adjustment
3
Check and repack
1In most cases the front wheel bearings will
not need servicing until the brake pads are
changed. However, the bearings should be
checked whenever the front of the vehicle is
raised for any reason. Several items, including
a torque wrench and special grease, are
required for this procedure (see illustration).2With the vehicle securely supported on axle
stands, spin each wheel and check for noise,
rolling resistance and freeplay.
3Grasp the top of each tyre with one hand
and the bottom with the other. Move the
wheel in-and-out on the spindle. If there’s any
noticeable movement, the bearings should be
checked and then repacked with grease or
renewed if necessary.
4Remove the wheel.
5Remove the brake caliper (see Chapter 9)
and hang it out of the way on a piece of wire.
A wood block of the appropriate width can be
slid between the brake pads to keep them
separated, if necessary. Also remove the
brake disc.
6Pry the dust cap out of the hub using a
screwdriver or a hammer and chisel (see
illustration).
7Straighten the bent ends of the cotter pin,
then pull the cotter pin out of the nut lock (see
illustration).Discard the cotter pin and use a
new one during reassembly.
8Remove the locknut, nut and washer from
the end of the spindle.
9Pull the hub out slightly, then push it back
into its original position. This should force theouter bearing off the spindle enough so it can
be removed (see illustration).
10Pull the hub off the spindle. Note:
Sometimes the inner wheel bearing and
grease seal remain attached to the spindle.
Grasp the back of the seal with both hands
and pull forward to remove them.
11If the grease seal is not already detached
from the hub, use a screwdriver to pry the seal
out of the rear of the hub. As this is done, note
how the seal is installed.
12If the inner wheel bearing is not already
detached from the hub, remove it at this time.
13Use solvent to remove all traces of the old
grease from the bearings, hub and spindle. A
small brush may prove helpful; however make
sure no bristles from the brush embed
themselves inside the bearing rollers. Allow
the parts to air dry.
14Carefully inspect the bearings for cracks,
heat discoloration, worn rollers, etc. Check
the bearing races inside the hub for wear and
damage. If the bearing races are defective,
the hubs should be taken to a machine
workshop with the facilities to remove the old
races and press new ones in. Note that the
bearings and races come as matched sets
Every 15 000 miles or 12 months 1•17
1
22.1 Tools and materials needed for front
wheel bearing maintenance
1 Hammer
2 Grease - High-temperature grease that is
formulated specially for front wheel
bearings should be used
3 Wood block - If you have a scrap piece
of 2x4, it can be used to drive the new
seal into the hub
4 Needle-nose pliers - Used to straighten
and remove the cotter pin in the spindle
5 Torque wrench - This is very important in
this procedure; if the bearing is too tight,
the wheel won’t turn freely - if it’s too
loose, the wheel will “wobble” on the
spindle. Either way, it could mean
extensive damage
6 Screwdriver - Used to remove the seal
from the hub (a long screwdriver is
preferred)
7 Socket/breaker bar - Needed to loosen the
nut on the spindle if it’s extremely tight
8 Brush - Together with some clean
solvent, this will be used to remove old
grease from the hub and spindle
22.6 Dislodge the dust cap by working
around the outer circumference with a
hammer and chisel
22.7 Remove the cotter pin and discard it -
use a new one when the hub is reinstalled22.9 Pull the hub assembly forward
slightly - then push it back into position to
dislodge the outer wheel bearing
3261 Jaguar XJ6 21.11 When refitting ribbed (serpentine)
drivebelts, make sure the belt is centred
between the pulley edges (arrowed) - it
must not overlap either edge of the pulley

and old bearings should never be installed on
new races.
15Use high-temperature front wheel bearing
grease to pack the bearings. Work the grease
completely into the bearings, forcing it
between the rollers, cone and cage from the
back side (see illustration).
16Apply a thin coat of grease to the spindle
at the outer bearing seat, inner bearing seat,
shoulder and seal seat.
17Put a small quantity of grease inboard of
each bearing race inside the hub. Using your
finger, form a dam at these points to provide
extra grease availability and to keep thinned
grease from flowing out of the bearing (see
illustration).
18Place the grease-packed inner bearing
into the rear of the hub and put a little more
grease outboard of the bearing.
19Place a new seal over the inner bearing
and tap the seal evenly into place until it’s
flush with the hub (see illustration).
20Carefully place the hub assembly onto the
spindle and push the grease-packed outer
bearing into position (see illustration).
Adjustment
21Refit the washer and spindle nut. Tighten
the nut only slightly (no more than 16Nm/12
lbf ft of torque).
22Rotate the hub slowly in a forward
direction while tightening the spindle nut toapproximately 27Nm (20 lbf ft) to seat the
bearings. Remove any grease or burrs which
could cause excessive bearing play later.
23Loosen the spindle nut 1/4-turn, then
using your hand (not a spanner of any kind),
tighten the nut until it’s snug. Refit the nut lock
and a new cotter pin through the hole in the
spindle and the slots in the nut lock. If the
nut lock slots don’t line up, remove the nut
lock and turn it slightly until they do (see
illustration).
24Bend the ends of the cotter pin until
they’re flat against the nut. Cut off any extra
length which could interfere with the dust cap.
25Refit the dust cap, tapping it into place
with a hammer.
26Refit the brake disc and caliper in the
reverse order of removal (see Chapter 9).
27Refit the wheel on the hub and tighten the
wheel nuts.
28Grasp the top and bottom of the tyre and
check the bearings in the manner described
earlier in this Section.
29Lower the vehicle and tighten the wheel
nuts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications.
23 Propshaft check
2
1Referring to Chapter 8, check the propshaft
centre bearing, universal joint and flexible
coupling for signs of wear or damage and
check that the propshaft fixings are tightened
to the specified torque.
24 Front wheel alignment check
5
1Accurate wheel alignment requires access
to specialised test equipment and as such
should be entrusted to a suitably equipped
Jaguar dealer or a tyre specialist (refer to
Chapter 10).
25 Headlight beam check
5
1Accurate adjustment of the headlight beam
is only possible using optical beam-setting
equipment, and this work should therefore be
carried out by a Jaguar dealer or garage with
the necessary facilities (see Chapter 12).
1•18Every 15 000 miles or 12 months
22.15 Work the grease completely into the
bearing rollers22.17 Apply a thin layer of grease to the
inner and outer bearing races22.19 After refitting the inner wheel
bearing into the hub - press the grease
seal into place
22.20 Refit the hub assembly onto the
spindle - then push the grease-packed
outer bearing into position22.23 Position the nut lock on the spindle
nut so that it lines up with the cotter pin
hole - DO NOT loosen the spindle nut from
its snug position
3261 Jaguar XJ6

26 Automatic transmission fluid
and filter renewal
2
1At the specified time intervals, the
transmission fluid should be drained and
renewed. Since the fluid will remain hot long
after driving, perform this procedure only after
the engine has cooled down completely.
2Before beginning work, purchase the
specified transmission fluid and a new filter.
3Other tools necessary for this job include
axle stands to support the vehicle in a raised
position, a drain pan capable of holding at
least eight pints, newspapers and clean rags.4Raise the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands.
5Place the drain pan under the drain plug in
the bottom of the transmission sump pan.
Remove the plug and allow the fluid to drain
(see illustration).
6Refit the drain plug, then move the drain
pan underneath the dipstick tube. Loosen the
dipstick tube collar and let the remaining fluid
drain (see illustrations).
7Remove the sump pan mounting bolts and
brackets (see illustration).
8Detach the sump pan from the transmission
and lower it, keeping it as horizontal as
possible in order not to spill too much of the
remaining fluid (see illustration).9Drain the remaining fluid from the
transmission sump pan, clean it with solvent
and dry it with compressed air. Be sure to
clean the metal filings from the magnet, if
equipped.
10Remove the screws and detach the filter
from the valve body (see illustrations).
11Refit the new O-ring and filter, being sure
to tighten the bolts securely.
12Carefully clean the fluid pan-to-
transmission sealing surface.
13Make sure the gasket surface on the
transmission sump pan is completely clean,
then refit the gasket. Put the sump pan in
place against the transmission and refit the
brackets and bolts. working around the sump
pan, tighten each bolt a little at a time until the
torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications
is reached. Don’t overtighten the bolts!
Connect the dipstick tube and tighten the
collar securely.
14Lower the vehicle and add the specified
amount of fluid through the filler tube (see
Section 8).
15With the transmission in Park and the
handbrake set, run the engine at fast idle, but
don’t race it.
16Move the gear selector through each
position, and then back to Park. Check the
fluid level.
17Be sure to check underneath the car for
any leaks after the first few miles of driving.
Every 30 000 miles (48 000 km) or 2 years
Every 30 000 miles or 2 years 1•19
1
26.6a Unscrew the dipstick tube collar26.6b Detach the tube and let the
remaining fluid drain
26.7 Use a socket and extension to
remove the transmission sump pan bolts
and brackets26.8 Lower the sump pan from the
transmission
26.10a Use a Torx-head driver to remove
the filter bolts (arrowed) . . .
3261 Jaguar XJ6
26.5 Using an Allen spanner remove the
drain plug located in the bottom of the
transmission sump pan
26.10b . . . then remove the fluid filter from
the transmission26.10c Be sure to remove the old O-ring
from the transmission - always use a new
O-ring when replacing the filter

30 Coolant renewal
2
Warning: Do not allow engine
coolant (antifreeze) to come in
contact with your skin or painted
surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off
spills immediately with plenty of water.
Antifreeze is highly toxic if ingested. Never
leave antifreeze laying around in an open
container or in puddles on the floor;
children and pets are attracted by it’s
sweet smell and may drink it. Check with
local authorities about disposing of used
antifreeze. Your local authority may have
collection centres which will see that
antifreeze is disposed of safely.1Periodically, the cooling system should be
drained, flushed and refilled to replenish the
antifreeze mixture and prevent formation of
rust and corrosion, which can impair the
performance of the cooling system and
cause engine damage. When the cooling
system is serviced, all hoses and the radiator
cap should be checked and renewed if
necessary.
Draining
2Apply the handbrake and block the wheels.
If the vehicle has just been driven, wait several
hours to allow the engine to cool down before
beginning this procedure.
3Remove the expansion tank pressure cap
(see illustration).
4Move a large container under the radiator
drain to catch the coolant. Then using a largescrewdriver, open the radiator drain plug and
direct the coolant into the container (see
illustration).
27 Differential oil renewal
2
1Drive the car for several miles to warm up
the differential lubricant, then raise the car
and support it securely on axle stands.
2Move a drain pan, rags, newspapers and
the required tools under the car.
3Remove the check/fill plug from the
differential. If necessary refer to Section 9 for
the check/fill plug location.
4With the drain pan under the differential,
use a ratchet and socket to loosen the drain
plug (see illustration). Note:A special pipe
plug socket may be required to complete this
procedure.
5Once loosened, carefully unscrew it with
your fingers until you can remove it from the
case. Since the lubricant will be hot, wear a
rubber glove to prevent burns.
6Allow all of the oil to drain into the pan, then
replace the drain plug and tighten it securely.
7Refer to Section 9 and fill the differential
with lubricant.
8Refit the fill plug and tighten it securely.
9Lower the vehicle. Check for leaks at the
drain plug after the first few miles of driving.
28 Brake fluid renewal
2
Warning: Brake fluid can harm
your eyes and damage painted
surfaces, so use extreme
caution when handling or
pouring it. Do not use brake fluid that has
been standing open or is more than oneyear old. Brake fluid absorbs moisture from
the air. Excess moisture can cause a
dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.
1At the specified time intervals, the brake
fluid should be drained and renewed. Since
the brake fluid may drip or splash when
pouring it, place plenty of rags around the
master cylinder to protect any surrounding
painted surfaces.
2Before beginning work, purchase the
specified type of brake fluid.
3Remove the cap from the master cylinder
reservoir.
4Using a hand suction pump or similar
device, withdraw the fluid from the master
cylinder reservoir.
5Add new fluid to the master cylinder until it
rises to the base of the filler neck.
6Bleed the brake system as described in
Chapter 9 at all four brakes until new and
uncontaminated fluid flows from the bleed
screw.
7Refill the master cylinder with fluid and
check the operation of the brakes. The pedal
should feel solid when depressed, with no
sponginess.
Warning: Do not drive the car if
you are in any doubt about the
braking system.
1•20Every 30 000 miles or 2 years
27.4 The differential drain plug (arrowed)
is accessible through a hole located in the
middle of the differential support brace
30.3 Push the expansion tank pressure
cap downward and rotate anti-clockwise -
never remove it when the engine is hot!
3261 Jaguar XJ6
Every 60 000 miles (96 000 km)
29 Handbrake shoes check
2
1Remove the rear discs and inspect the
handbrake shoes as described in Chapter 9. If
the shoes are worn or damaged they must be
renewed.Warning: The dust created by
the brake system may contain
asbestos, which is harmful to
your health. Never blow it out
with compressed air and don’t inhale any
of it. An approved filtering mask should be
worn when working on the brakes. Do not,
under any circumstances, use petroleum-
based solvents to clean brake parts. Usebrake system cleaner only! Try to use non-
asbestos replacement parts whenever
possible.
Every 2 years, regardless of mileage

5After the coolant stops flowing out of the
radiator, move the container under the engine
block drain plug. Remove the plug and let the
coolant in the block to drain (see illustration).
6While the coolant is draining from the
engine block, check the condition of the
radiator hoses, heater hoses and clamps
(refer to Section 7 if necessary).
7Replace any damaged clamps or hoses
(see Chapter 3).
Flushing
8Once the system is completely drained,
flush the radiator with fresh water from agarden hose until water runs clear at the drain.
The flushing action of the water will remove
sediments from the radiator but will not
remove more serious rust and scale from the
engine and cooling tube surfaces.
9These deposits can be removed by using
proprietary chemical cleaners. It should be
stressed, however, that these should only
need to be used if the system has been
neglected. Follow the procedure outlined in
their manufacturer’s instructions. If the
radiator is severely corroded, damaged or
leaking, it should be removed (see Chapter 3)
and taken to a radiator repair workshop.10On 1988 and 1989 models remove the
overflow hose from the coolant recovery
reservoir. Drain the reservoir and flush it with
clean water, then reconnect the hose (see
Chapter 3).
Refilling
11Close and tighten the radiator drain. Refit
and tighten the engine block drain plugs.
12Make sure the heater temperature control
is in the maximum heat position.
13Slowly refill the expansion tank with a
mixture of antifreeze and water until the
coolant reaches the base of the filler neck.
14Leave the expansion tank pressure cap
off and run the engine in a well-ventilated area
until the thermostat opens (coolant will begin
flowing through the radiator and the upper
radiator hose will become hot). Race the
engine two or three times under no load.
15Turn the engine off and let it cool. Add
more coolant mixture to bring the level back
up to the base of the filler neck.
16Squeeze the upper radiator hose to expel
air, then add more coolant mixture if
necessary. Refit the expansion tank pressure
cap.
17Start the engine, allow it to reach normal
operating temperature and check for leaks.
Every 2 years 1•21
1
3261 Jaguar XJ6
30.4 The radiator drain fitting (arrowed)
located at the bottom of the radiator30.5 The block drain plug (arrowed) is
located on the right side of the block

3261 Jaguar XJ6
2A
Chapter 2 Part A
Engine in-car repair procedures
General
Cylinder numbers (front to rear) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-2-3-4-5-6
Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-5-3-6-2-4
Displacement:
3.2 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3239 cc
3.6 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3590 cc
4.0 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3980 cc
Bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91.0 mm (3.583 inches)
Stroke:
3.2 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83.0 mm (3.268 inches)
3.6 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92.0 mm (3.622 inches)
4.0 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102.0 mm (4.016 inches)
Camshafts and lifters
Journal diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26.9370 to 26.9494 mm (1.0605 to 1.0610 inches)
Bearing oil clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.037 to 0.063 mm (0.0014 to 0.0024 inch)
Runout limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.0406 mm (0.0016 inch)
Lobe lift (maximum variation between lobes) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.0127 mm (0.005 inch)
Valve lifter
Diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33.34 to 33.35 mm (1.3126 to 1.3130 inches)
Oil clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.020 to 0.050 mm (0.0008 to 0.0020 inch)
Valve clearances . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 to 0.36 mm (0.012 to 0.014 inch)
Oil pump
Outer rotor to body clearance, maximum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.2 mm (0.0079 inch)
Outer rotor OD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69.774 to 69.825 mm (2.7470 to 2.7490 inches)
Rotor thickness, inner and outer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27.962 to 27.975 mm (1.1008 to 1.1013 inches)
Clearance over rotors, maximum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.1 mm (0.0039 inch) Auxiliary shaft - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Camshafts and lifters - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . 10
CHECK ENGINE light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 6
Crankshaft front oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Crankshaft rear oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Cylinder compression check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2B
Cylinder head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Drivebelt check, adjustment and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Driveplate - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Engine mounts - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Engine oil and filter change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Engine overhaul - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2B
Engine - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2BExhaust manifolds - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Intake manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Oil pump - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle . . . . . . . . 2
Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Timing chains and sprockets - removal, inspection and refitting . . . 8
Top Dead Centre (TDC) for number one piston - locating . . . . . . . . . 3
Valve cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Valves - servicing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2B
Water pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 3
2A•1
Specifications Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321

Torque wrench settings*Nm lbf ft
Camshaft bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 to 27 16 to 20
Camshaft sprocket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 to 27 16 to 20
Crankshaft damper-to-crankshaft bolt
3.2 and 3.6 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204 151
4.0 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180 to 220 133 to 162
Crankshaft pulley to damper bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 to 27 16 to 20
Crankshaft rear oil seal retainer bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 to 27 16 to 20
Crankshaft sensor bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 to 27 16 to 20
Cylinder head bolts
Step 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 44
Step 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tighten an additional 90° (1/4 turn)
Driveplate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123 to 149 91 to 110
Engine mounts
To engine block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 to 66 36 to 39
To chassis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 24 16 to 18
Exhaust manifold heat shield fasteners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 to 27 16 to 20
Exhaust manifold nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 to 27 16 to 20
Intake manifold nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 to 27 16 to 20
Oil pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 to 27 16 to 20
Sump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 to 27 16 to 20
Sump bolts, adapter to pan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 to 54 36 to 40
Timing chain cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 to 27 16 to 20
Valve cover screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 to 12 7 to 9
*Note:Refer to Part B for additional specifications
2A•2 Engine in-car repair procedures
3261 Jaguar XJ6
1 General information
This Part of Chapter 2 is devoted to in-car
repair procedures for the in-line six-cylinder
engines. All information concerning engine
removal and refitting and engine block and
cylinder head overhaul can be found in Part B
of this Chapter.
The following repair procedures are based
on the assumption that the engine is installed
in the car. If the engine has been removed
from the car and mounted on a stand, many of
the steps outlined in this Part of Chapter 2 will
not apply. We have photographed some in-
car engine procedures with the engine on a
stand for photographic purposes.
The Specifications included in this Part of
Chapter 2 apply only to the procedures
contained in this Part. Part B of Chapter 2
includes the Specifications necessary for
cylinder head and engine block rebuilding.
2 Repair operations possible
with the engine in the car
Many repair operations can be
accomplished without removing the engine
from the car.
Clean the engine compartment and the
exterior of the engine with some type of
degreaser before any work is done. It will
make the job easier and help keep dirt out of
the internal areas of the engine.
Depending on the components involved, itmay be helpful to remove the bonnet to
improve access to the engine as repairs are
performed (refer to Chapter 11 if necessary).
Cover the wings to prevent damage to the
paint. Special pads are available, but an old
bedspread or blanket will also work.
If vacuum, exhaust, oil or coolant leaks
develop, indicating a need for gasket or seal
renewal, the repairs can generally be made
with the engine in the car. The intake and
exhaust manifold gaskets, crankshaft oil seals
and cylinder head gasket are all accessible
with the engine in place (although rear oil seal
renewal involves removal of the transmission).
The sump is difficult for a home mechanic to
replace without a hoist and other specialised
equipment, since the front suspension,
steering and crossmember must be lowered
to allow enough clearance for sump removal.
If such equipment is not available, the
alternative would be to remove the engine for
renewal of the sump or oil pump. Note:We
assume that the home mechanic does not
have access to the specialised equipment,
and have photographed our subject engine
out of the car for some procedures.
Exterior engine components, such as the
intake and exhaust manifolds, the water
pump, the starter motor, the alternator, the
distributor and the fuel system components
can be removed for repair with the engine in
place.
Since the cylinder head can be removed
with the engine in-car, camshaft and valve
component servicing can also be
accomplished. Renewal of the timing chains
and sprockets is also possible with the engine
in-car.
3 Top Dead Centre (TDC) for
number one piston- locating
1
Note:The following procedure is based on the
assumption that the distributor is correctly
installed. If you are trying to locate TDC to refit
the distributor correctly, piston position must
be determined by feeling for compression at
the number one spark plug hole, then aligning
the ignition timing marks (see paragraph 8).
1Top Dead Centre (TDC) is the highest point
in the cylinder that each piston reaches as it
travels up the cylinder bore. Each piston
reaches TDC on the compression stroke and
again on the exhaust stroke, but TDC
generally refers to piston position on the
compression stroke.
2Positioning the piston(s) at TDC is an
essential part of many procedures such as
camshaft and timing chain/sprocket removal
and distributor removal.
3Before beginning this procedure, be sure to
place the transmission in Neutral and apply
the handbrake or block the rear wheels. Also,
disable the ignition system by detaching the
coil wire from the centre terminal of the
distributor cap and grounding it on the engine
block with a jumper wire. Remove the spark
plugs (see Chapter 1).
4In order to bring any piston to TDC, the
crankshaft must be turned using one of the
methods outlined below. When looking at the
timing chain end of the engine, normal
crankshaft rotation is clockwise.
a) The preferred method is to turn the
crankshaft with a socket and ratchet

attached to the bolt threaded into the
front of the crankshaft. Apply pressure on
the bolt in a clockwise direction only.
Never turn the bolt anti-clockwise.
b) A remote starter switch, which may save
some time, can also be used. Follow the
instructions included with the switch.
Once the piston is close to TDC, use a
socket and ratchet as described in the
previous paragraph.
c) If an assistant is available to turn the
ignition switch to the Start position in
short bursts, you can get the piston close
to TDC without a remote starter switch.
Make sure your assistant is out of the car,
away from the ignition switch, then use a
socket and ratchet as described in
Paragraph a) to complete the procedure.
5Note the position of the terminal for the
number one spark plug lead on the distributor
cap. If the terminal isn’t marked, follow the
plug lead from the number one cylinder spark
plug to the cap.
6Use a felt-tip pen or chalk to make a mark
on the distributor body directly under the
number one terminal (see Chapter 5).
7Detach the cap from the distributor and set
it aside (see Chapter 1 if necessary).
8Turn the crankshaft until the small triangle
cast into the front edge of the crankshaft
sensor ring is aligned with the bottom edge of
the timing pointer located at the front of the
engine(see illustration).
9Look at the distributor rotor - it should be
pointing directly at the mark you made on the
distributor body. If so, you are at TDC for
number 1 cylinder.
10If the rotor is 180° off, the number one
piston is at TDC on the exhaust stroke.
11To get the piston to TDC on the
compression stroke, turn the crankshaft one
complete revolution (360°) clockwise. The
rotor should now be pointing at the mark
on the distributor. When the rotor is pointing
at the number one spark plug lead terminal in
the distributor cap and the ignition timing
marks are aligned, the number one piston is atTDC on the compression stroke. Note:If it’s
impossible to align the ignition timing marks
when the rotor is pointing at the mark on the
distributor body, the timing chain may have
jumped the teeth on the pulleys or may have
been installed incorrectly.
12After the number one piston has been
positioned at TDC on the compression stroke,
TDC for any of the remaining cylinders can be
located by turning the crankshaft and
following the firing order. Mark the remaining
spark plug lead terminal locations on the
distributor body just like you did for the
number one terminal, then number the marks
to correspond with the cylinder numbers. As
you turn the crankshaft, the rotor will also
turn. When it’s pointing directly at one of the
marks on the distributor, the piston for that
particular cylinder is at TDC on the
compression stroke.
4 Valve cover-
removal and refitting
1
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative cable.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, makesure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
2Detach the PCV hose from the valve cover
(see illustration).
3Remove the spark plug leads from the
spark plugs, handling them by the boots and
not pulling on the wires.
4Remove the valve cover mounting screws,
then detach the valve cover and gasket from
the cylinder head. If the valve cover is stuck
to the cylinder head, bump the end with a
wood block and a hammer to jar it loose. If
that doesn’t work, try to slip a flexible putty
knife between the cylinder head and valve
cover to break the seal.
Caution: Don’t pry at the valve cover-to-
cylinder head joint or damage to the
sealing surfaces may occur, leading to oil
leaks after the valve cover is reinstalled.
Refitting
5The mating surfaces of the cylinder head
and valve cover must be clean when the valve
cover is installed. If there’s residue or oil on
the mating surfaces when the valve cover is
installed, oil leaks may develop.
6Apply RTV sealant around the two half-
circle rubber plugs at the rear of the cylinder
head (see illustration).
7Using a new gasket and spark plug tube
seals, refit the valve cover (see illustration).
Engine in-car repair procedures 2A•3
2A
4.6 Apply RTV sealant to the half-circle
plugs and insert them into the cylinder
head before refitting the valve cover4.7 Press the valve cover gasket into the
groove around the valve cover and fit a
new set of spark plug tube seals (arrowed)
3261 Jaguar XJ6 3.8 Align the mark on the crankshaft sensor ring (arrowed) with
the bottom edge of the pointer on the front cover
4.2 Disconnect the PCV hose (arrowed) from the valve cover, then
pull the spark plug leads out by their boots, not the leads

8Tighten the screws to the torque listed in
this Chapter’s Specifications in three or four
equal steps.
9Refit the remaining components, start the
engine and check for oil leaks.
5 Intake manifold-
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1Disconnect the negative cable from the
battery.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
2Refer to Chapter 4 to remove the
accelerator and cruise-control linkage, safely
relieve the fuel system pressure, and
disconnect the fuel supply lines.
3Label or mark and detach the PCV and
vacuum hoses connected to the intake
manifold, (see illustration).
4The intake manifold can be removed with
the injectors and fuel rail still in place.
Disconnect the electrical connectors at
each injector (label them first for reassembly).
If the injectors are to be removed from the
intake manifold, refer to Chapter 4.
5Refer to Chapter 4 and remove the throttle
body.6Remove the three nuts retaining the oil filler
tube bracket, then pull the tube up as far as
possible (see illustrations).
7Remove the ground strap and intake
manifold mounting nuts/bolts, then detach the
intake manifold from the engine (see
illustrations).
Refitting
8Clean the mating surfaces of the intake
manifold and the cylinder head mounting
surface with lacquer thinner or acetone. If the
gasket shows signs of leaking, have the
manifold checked for warpage at an
automotive machine workshop and
resurfaced if necessary.
9Refit a new gasket, then position the intake
manifold on the cylinder head and refit the
nuts/bolts (see illustration).
10Tighten the nuts/bolts in three or four
equal steps to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications. Work from the
centre out towards the ends to avoid warping
the manifold.
11Refit the remaining parts in the reverse
order of removal.
12Before starting the engine, check the
throttle linkage for smooth operation.
13Run the engine and check for coolant and
vacuum leaks.
14Road test the car and check for proper
operation of all accessories, including the
cruise control system.
6 Exhaust manifolds-
removal and refitting
2
Warning: The engine must be
completely cool before beginning
this procedure.
Removal
1Disconnect the negative cable from the
battery.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
2On 1990 and later models, disconnect the
EGR pipe and remove the EGR valve from the
top of the exhaust manifold (see Chapter 6).
3Apply penetrating oil to the exhaust
manifold mounting nuts/bolts, and the nuts
retaining the exhaust pipes to the manifolds.
After the nuts have soaked, remove the nuts
retaining the exhaust pipes to the manifolds
and the lower bolt from the heat shield (see
illustration).
4Remove the heat shield from the exhaust
manifolds(see illustration).
5Disconnect the electrical connector to the
oxygen sensor. Unless the oxygen sensor is
being renewed, leave the sensor in place.
6Remove the nuts/bolts and detach the
manifolds and gaskets (see illustration).
2A•4 Engine in-car repair procedures
5.3 The various hoses should be marked
to ensure correct refitting5.6a Remove the oil filler tube bracket
nuts (arrowed) . . .5.6b . . . pull the tube up to dislodge it
from the housing - it won’t come out, but
can be removed with the intake manifold
5.7a Remove the ground strap from the
front stud (arrowed), and the engine wiring
harness clips from the other studs5.7b Remove the intake manifold bolts/
nuts and remove the intake manifold - the
upper fasteners are studs/nuts, while the
lower row are bolts (two arrowed)5.9 Refit the new intake manifold gasket
over the studs (arrowed) refit the manifold
3261 Jaguar XJ6