ECU JAGUAR XJ6 1997 2.G Repair Manual

whenever a fault is suspected), the assembly
itself should be visually inspected.
2Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the rear of the
vehicle and place it securely on axle stands.
Remove the rear wheels.
3Remove the rear brake calipers and discs
(see Sections 3, 4 and 5). Support the caliper
assemblies with a coat hanger or heavy wire
and do not disconnect the brake line from the
caliper.4With the disc removed, the handbrake
components are visible and can be inspected
for wear and damage. The linings should last
the life of the vehicle. However, they can wear
down if the handbrake system has been
improperly adjusted. There is no minimum
thickness specification for the handbrake
shoes, but as a rule of thumb, if the shoe
material is less 1/32-inch thick, you should
renew them. Also check the springs andadjuster mechanism and inspect the drum for
deep scratches and other damage.
Renewal
5Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the rear of the
vehicle and place it securely on axle stands.
Remove the rear wheels. Remove the brake
discs (see Section 5). Follow the
accompanying photo sequence beginning
with illustration 12.5a. Work on only one side 1 Adjuster
2 Hold down springs and
washers3 Upper return spring
4 Lower return spring
5 Handbrake shoes
9•12 Braking system
12.5a Wash down the handbrake
assembly with brake cleaner before
dismantling12.5b Back off the star wheel on the
adjuster, then disengage the adjuster
mechanism from the handbrake shoes12.5c Remove the front hold-down spring,
washers and pin; note that one washer
goes below the spring and one above it
12.5d Remove the rear hold-down spring,
washers and pin; put the parts in a plastic
bag so you don’t lose them12.5e Push the shoes together and
disengage the upper return spring
from the rear shoe . . .12.5f . . . and from the front shoe
3261 Jaguar XJ6 12.5g Pull the shoes apart and remove them with the lower spring
attached as shown, then disengage the lower return spring
from both shoes
12.5h The handbrake shoe assembly

1 General information
Warning: Whenever any of the
suspension or steering fasteners
are loosened or removed, they
must be inspected and if
necessary, replaced with new ones of the
same part number or of original equipment
quality and design. Torque wrench settings
must be followed for proper reassembly
and component retention. Never attempt
to heat, straighten or weld any suspension
or steering component. Instead, renew any
bent or damaged part.
The front suspension (see illustrations)
consists of unequal-length upper and lower
control arms, shock absorbers and coil
springs. The upper ends of the shocks are
attached to the body; the lower ends
are attached to the lower control arms. The
upper ends of the coil springs are seated
against the suspension crossmember; the
lower ends are seated against removable
plates which are bolted to the lower control
arms. The steering knuckles are attached to
balljoints in the upper and lower control arms.
An anti-roll bar is attached to the suspension
crossmember with a pair of bushing brackets
and to the lower control arms via a connecting
link at each end.The independent rear suspension (see
illustration)uses control arms and integral
shock absorber/coil spring units. The upper
ends of the shocks are attached to the body;
the lower ends are connected to the control
arms.
The steering system consists of the
steering wheel, a steering column, a universal
joint on the lower end of the steering shaft, a
rack-and-pinion power steering gear, a power
steering pump and a pair of tie-rods which
connects the steering gear to the steering
knuckles (see illustration).
2 Self-levelling rear
suspension system
1988 to 1992 models were equipped with a
system that provided hydraulic power for the
rear suspension and for the power brakes. As
the vehicle is loaded or unloaded, the rear
suspension is automatically adjusted to
maintain a constant ride height.
The system was discontinued on 1993 and
later models, which are equipped with
conventional shock absorber/coil spring units.
A kit is available from your Jaguar dealer
should you decide to retrofit the later,
conventional shocks to a pre-1993 vehicle.
Complete instructions for refitting the kit are
included in Section 10.
3 Anti-roll bar (front)-
removal and refitting
2
1Raise the front of the vehicle and support it
securely on axle stands.
2Remove the bolts from the anti-roll bar
brackets that attach the anti-roll bar to the
suspension crossmember (see illustration).
3Remove the nuts that attach the anti-roll
bar to the links (see illustration). If you’re
replacing the links themselves, or removing
the control arm, remove the nuts attaching the
links to the lower control arms.
Suspension and steering systems 10•3
10
1.3 Rear suspension
1 Hub carrier 2 Control arms 3 Crossmember mounting brackets 4 Crossmember
3.2 To detach the anti-roll bar from the
suspension crossmember, remove these
two bolts (arrowed) from each bushing
bracket
3261 Jaguar XJ6

4Remove the anti-roll bar from the vehicle.
5Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Be sure to tighten all fasteners to
the torque listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications.
4 Shock absorber (front)-
removal and refitting
2
Note: Always renew both left and right shocks
at the same time to prevent handling
peculiarities and abnormal ride quality.
1Loosen but do not remove the front wheel
nuts. Raise the front of the vehicle and
support it on axle stands. Remove the wheels.
2Support the lower control arm with a trolley
jack (see illustration). Place a block of wood
between the jack head and the control arm to
protect the arm and spring plate.
3Remove the nut and bolt that attach the
lower end of the shock absorber to the lower
control arm (see illustration).
4Remove the nut that attaches the upper
end of the shock to the body (see
illustration).
5Remove the shock absorber.
6Refitting is the reverse of removal. Tighten
the fasteners to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications.
5 Balljoints- check and renewal
3
Check
1Raise the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands.
2Visually inspect the rubber boot between
the balljoints and the steering knuckle for
cuts, tears or leaking grease. If you note any
of these conditions, renew the balljoint.
3Place a large crowbar between eachcontrol arm and the steering knuckle. If you
can see or feel any movement during either
check, a worn-out balljoint is indicated.
4Have an assistant grasp the tyre at the top
and bottom and shake the top of the tyre with
an in-and-out motion. Touch the balljoint stud
nut. If any looseness is felt, suspect a worn-
out balljoint stud or a widened hole in the
steering knuckle. If the latter problem exists,
the steering knuckle should be replaced as
well as the balljoint.
Renewal
5Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the vehicle
and support it securely on axle stands.
Remove the wheel.
6Support the lower control arm with a trolley
jack (see illustration 4.2). Place a block of
wood between the jack head and the control
arm as shown to protect the arm and spring
plate.
Upper balljoint
7Loosen - but don’t remove - the ball stud
nut, fit a small puller (see illustration)and
pop the ball stud loose from the steering
knuckle.
8Remove the two bolts that attach the
balljoint to the upper arm (see illustration).
Count the number of shims installed and set
them aside.
9Refitting is the reverse of removal. Don’t
forget to refit the same number of shims.
Tighten the bolts to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications.
10Remove the jack from under the control
arm, refit the front wheel, lower the vehicle
and tighten the wheel nuts to the torque listed
in the Chapter 1 Specifications. Drive the
vehicle to an alignment workshop to have the
wheel alignment checked, and if necessary,
adjusted.
Lower balljoint
11Loosen - but don’t remove - the ball stud
nut, then give the steering knuckle a few
sharp raps with a hammer to pop the ball stud
loose (see illustration). Remove the ball stud
nut.
10•4 Suspension and steering systems
3.3 To disconnect the anti-roll bar from the
link, remove the upper nut (arrowed); to
disconnect the link from the lower control
arm, remove the lower nut (arrowed)4.2 Support the lower control arm with a
jack; put a block of wood between the jack
head and the control arm to protect the
arm and coil spring plate
4.3 To disconnect the lower end of the
shock absorber from the lower control
arm, remove this nut and bolt4.4 To disconnect the upper end of the
shock absorber from the body, remove this
nut (arrowed)
5.7 To detach the upper balljoint from the
steering knuckle, loosen the ballstud nut,
fit a small puller and break the ballstud
loose from the knuckle5.8 Remove the bolts and shims from the
upper balljoint; be sure to put the shims
back when refitting the new balljoint
3261 Jaguar XJ6

12Remove the four balljoint retaining bolts
(see illustration).
13If the dust boot is damaged, pry it out
(see illustration).
14Remove the balljoint.
15Refitting is the reverse of removal. Tighten
the balljoint bolts and the ball stud nut to the
torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
16Remove the jack from under the control
arm, refit the front wheel. Lower the vehicle
and tighten the wheel nuts to the torque listed
in the Chapter 1 Specifications.
6 Steering knuckle-
removal and refitting
3
1Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the front of the
vehicle and place it securely on axle stands.
Remove the wheel.
2Remove the front brake caliper and
mounting bracket (see Chapter 9). Do not
disconnect the brake hose. Hang the caliper
out of the way with a piece of wire.
3Remove the brake disc (see Chapter 9).
4Remove the ABS sensor (see illustration).
5Remove the brake shield (see illustration).
6Disconnect the tie-rod end from the
steering knuckle (see Section 15).
7Disconnect the upper and lower balljoints
from the steering knuckle (see Section 5).
8Remove the steering knuckle.
9Refitting is the reverse of removal. Tighten
the balljoint nuts and the tie-rod end nuts to the
specified torque. Tighten the brake fasteners to
the torque values listed in the Chapter 9
Specifications.
7 Upper control arm-
removal and refitting
3
1Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the vehicle
and support it securely on axle stands.
Remove the wheel.
2Support the lower control arm with a trolley
jack (see illustration 4.2).
3Disconnect the upper balljoint from the
steering knuckle (see Section 5).4If you’re removing the right upper control
arm on a vehicle equipped with the power
hydraulic system, remove the three Torx
screws which attach the accumulator (see
illustration)and push the assembly aside just
far enough to clear the pivot bolt.
5Remove the upper control arm pivot bolt
and nut (see illustration). When removing the
nut, note the number of washers used and the
order in which they’re installed. Put these
parts in a plastic bag.
6Remove the upper control arm. Inspect the
bushings at either end of the arm and renew
them if they’re damaged or worn.
7Refitting is the reverse of removal. Be sure
to refit the washers in the same order in which
they were removed. Raise the suspensionwith the trolley jack to simulate normal ride
height, then tighten the upper control arm
pivot bolt and nut to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications.
8 Coil spring (front)-
removal and refitting
3
Warning: The coil springs cannot
be removed without a special
spring compressor tool (Jaguar
tool JD115). Do not try to remove
a coil spring without this special tool. If you
do, you could be seriously injured.
1Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the vehicle
Suspension and steering systems 10•5
10
5.11 Strike the steering knuckle in this
area to pop the lower ball stud loose from
the steering knuckle5.12 To detach the lower balljoint from the
lower control arm, remove these four bolts
(arrowed)5.13 To detach the dust boot from the
steering knuckle, pry the lower lip of the
boot out of its groove in the knuckle
6.5 To detach the brake shield from the
steering knuckle, remove these three
screws (arrowed)6.4 To detach the ABS sensor from the
steering knuckle, remove this bolt
7.4 Remove these three Torx screws
(arrowed) and move the accumulator
assembly to the side a little to provide
clearance for pulling out the pivot bolt7.5 To detach the upper control arm from
the crossmember, remove the nut (at the
rear) and pull the bolt out from the front;
note the fitted order of the spacer washers
3261 Jaguar XJ6

and support it securely on axle stands.
Remove the wheel.
2Refit the special spring compressor tool
(JD115) as shown (see illustrations).
3Tighten the tool until the spacer is tight
against the spring pan, then remove the
spring pan bolts (see illustration).
4Slowly back off the wingnut on the special
tool until all tension is relieved from the spring.
Remove the tool, remove the pan, and remove
the coil spring.
5Refitting is the reverse of removal. Place the
coil spring in position with the spring pan
below it, refit the special tool and carefully
tighten the wingnut until the spring is
compressed enough to allow the pan to be
positioned and bolted to the lower control
arm. Be sure to tighten the pan bolts to the
torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
9 Lower control arm-
removal and refitting
3
Warning: The lower control arms
cannot be removed without a
special spring compressor tool
(Jaguar tool JD115). Do not try to
remove a lower control arm without this
tool, or you could be seriously injured.1Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the vehicle
and support it securely on axle stands.
Remove the wheel.
2Remove the spring pan and the coil spring
(see Section 8).
3Detach the steering gear (see Section 17)
and lower it far enough to provide clearance
for the lower control arm pivot bolt.
4Remove the pivot bolt and nut (see
illustration). Note any washers behind the nut
and store them in a plastic bag.
5Remove the lower control arm.
6Refitting is the reverse of removal. Be sure
to refit any washers removed. Raise the
suspension with the trolley jack to simulate
normal ride height, then tighten the pivot bolt
and nut to the torque listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications. Refer to Section 8 for coil
spring refitting.
10 Shock absorber/coil spring
(rear)- removal and refitting
3
Note 1: Always renew both left and right
shocks at the same time to prevent handling
peculiarities and abnormal ride quality.
Note 2:If you’re replacing the shock absorbers
on an earlier vehicle with the self-levelling
system, we strongly recommend (and so doesJaguar) that you renew the self-levelling units
with conventional units (available at the dealer
as a retrofit kit for older vehicles equipped with
the self-levelling system).
1Loosen the rear wheel nuts. Raise the rear
of the vehicle and support it securely on axle
stands. Remove the rear wheels. Support the
control arm with a trolley jack. Place a block of
wood on the jack head to serve as a cushion.
2If you are removing/replacing the shocks on
a vehicle equipped with the self-levelling rear
suspension system, depressurise the system
by pumping the brake pedal until it feels hard
to push (this dissipates the pressure inside the
accumulator), then locate the hydraulic line
valve block just in front of the upper end of the
left rear shock (see illustration). Attach a
plastic hose to the bleeder screw (see
illustration), put the other end of the hose in a
catch bottle, crack the bleeder and drain off
as much fluid as possible. Disconnect the
hydraulic line that connects the left shock to
the valve block. Now locate the other valve
block just in front of the right rear shock;
disconnect the hydraulic line that connects
the right shock to this valve block too.
3Remove the lower shock absorber-to-
control arm nut and bolt (see illustration).
4Remove the upper mounting bolts (see
illustration)and remove the shock
absorber/coil spring assembly.
10•6 Suspension and steering systems
9.4 To detach the lower control arm from
the crossmember, remove this nut and bolt
(arrowed) (unbolt and lower the steering
gear before you can pull out the pivot bolt)10.2a On a vehicle equipped with self-
levelling rear suspension, the valve block
(arrowed) for the left rear shock is located
just in front of the shock absorber10.2b After depressurising the system,
attach a bleed hose to the bleed screw on
the left valve block, open the bleed and
drain any residual fluid into a catch bottle
3261 Jaguar XJ6 8.2a When refitting the spring compressor
tool (JD115), insert the upper end of the
rod into the cross-shaped slot in the
suspension crossmember, then rotate the
rod 90° so this pin on the upper end of the
tool locks into the crossmember
8.2b This is how the spring compressor
tool (JD115) looks when it’s installed; note
how the offset collet is oriented so that it’s
flush with the coil spring pan8.3 To detach the coil spring pan from the
lower control arm, compress the spring
and remove these six bolts (arrowed)

11If you installed another pair of self-
levelling shocks, or removed and installed the
same pair of self-levelling shocks, be sure to
top up the power hydraulic system reservoir
(see Chapter 1).
11 Hub carrier (rear)-
removal and refitting
4
1Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the rear of the
vehicle and support it securely on axle stands.
Remove the wheel.
2Remove the rear caliper and brake pads,
the caliper bracket, the brake disc, the
handbrake cable and the handbrake shoe
assembly (see Chapter 9).
3Disconnect the outer end of the propshaft
from the hub carrier (see Chapter 8).
4Remove the ABS sensor, the ABS harness
clip and cut off the cable tie which secures the
ABS harness to the carrier (see illustration).
5Remove the nut and bolt which attach the
carrier to the control arm (see illustration).
6Remove the hub carrier assembly.
7Refitting is the reverse of removal. Be sure
to tighten all fasteners to the torque values
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
12 Hub and bearing (rear)-
renewal
4
If you want to renew the rear hub and
bearing assembly (or the ABS trigger wheel),
remove the hub carrier (see Section 11), then
take the carrier to a Jaguar dealer service
department or to an automotive machine
workshop. These parts require a hydraulic
press and special fixtures to dismantle and
reassemble.
13 Control arm (rear)-
removal and refitting
4
1Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the rear of the
vehicle and support it securely on axle stands.
Remove the wheel.
2Remove the rear caliper and brake pads,
the caliper bracket, the brake disc, the
handbrake cable and the handbrake shoe
assembly (see Chapter 9).
3Disconnect the outer end of the propshaft
from the hub carrier (see Chapter 8).
4Disconnect the lower end of the shock
absorber/coil spring assembly from the
control arm (see Section 10).
5Remove the hub carrier (see Section 11).
6Remove the control arm pivot bolt nut (see
illustration).
7Support the differential/crossmember
assembly with a trolley jack. Place a block of
wood between the jack head and the
differential to protect the differential.
Disconnect the lower end of the differential
tie-bar (see illustration)and carefully lower
the differential crossmember just enough toallow the control arm pivot bolt to be pulled
out to the rear without hitting the boot well.
8Remove the control arm.
9Inspect the control arm pivot bolt bushings.
If they’re cracked, dried out or torn, take the
arm to an automotive machine workshop and
have them replaced.
10Refitting is the reverse of removal. Tighten
all suspension fasteners to the torque listed in
this Chapter’s Specifications. Tighten all
brake fasteners to the torque listed in the
Chapter 9 Specifications.
14 Steering wheel-
removal and refitting
1
Warning: If your car is equipped
with an airbag, do not attempt
this procedure. Have it done by a
dealer service department or
other qualified repair workshop.
1Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Caution: If the radio in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
10•8 Suspension and steering systems
13.6 Hold the pivot bolt and unscrew
the nut13.7 Remove this nut (arrowed) and bolt
from the lower end of each tie-bar (right
above the control arm pivot)
3261 Jaguar XJ6 11.4 Before detaching the hub carrier from the rear control arm,
remove the ABS sensor (left arrow), detach the ABS harness clip
(right arrow) and cut the cable tie securing the harness
11.5 To detach the hub carrier from the rear control arm, remove
the carrier-to-control arm nut and bolt

sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
2Pry off the centre pad (see illustration).
3Remove the steering wheel nut and mark
the relationship of the steering wheel hub to
the shaft (see illustration).
4Slide the steering wheel off the steering
shaft (see illustration).
5Refitting is the reverse of removal. Make
sure you align the match marks you made on
the steering wheel and the shaft. Tighten the
steering wheel nut to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications.
15 Tie-rod ends-
removal and refitting
2
1Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the front of the
vehicle and support it securely on axle stands.
Remove the front wheel.
2Back off the locknut that locks the tie-rod
end to the tie-rod, then paint an alignment
mark on the threads to ensure the new tie-rod
end is installed in the same position (see
illustration).
3Loosen the nut on the tie-rod ball stud, then
fit a small puller and pop the ball stud loose
(see illustration). Remove the nut and
separate the ball stud from the steering
knuckle. Unscrew the tie-rod end from the tie-
rod.
4Refitting is the reverse of removal. Make
sure you thread the tie-rod end all the way up
to the mark on the threads, but no further.
Tighten the ball stud nut to the torque listed in
this Chapter’s Specifications. Tighten the
locknut securely.
5Have the toe-in checked and, if necessary,
adjusted at a dealer service department or
alignment workshop.
16 Steering gear boots- renewal
2
1Remove the tie-rod ends (see Section 15).
2Cut the boot clamps at both ends of the old
boots (see illustration)and slide off the
boots.3While the boots are removed, inspect the
seals in the end of the steering gear. If they’re
leaking, have them replaced by a dealer
service department or other qualified repair
workshop, or replace the steering gear with a
new or rebuilt unit (see Section 17).
4Slide the new boots into place and refit new
boot clamps.
5Refit the tie-rod ends (see Section 15).
Suspension and steering systems 10•9
10
14.4 To remove the steering wheel,
simply pull it straight off15.2 Back off this locknut and mark the
threads to ensure that the new tie-rod end
is installed properly
15.3 Loosen the ball stud nut, fit a small
puller and pop the ball stud loose from the
steering knuckle
3261 Jaguar XJ6 14.2 To remove the centre pad from the steering wheel,
simply pry it off
14.3 After removing the steering wheel nut, make a pair of
alignment marks on the steering wheel and steering shaft to
ensure proper reassembly
16.2 Cut off the boot clamps (arrowed)
and slide the boot off the steering gear

17 Steering gear-
removal and refitting
3
Warning: On models with an
airbag, do not apply excessive
force or severe shock to the
steering column shaft, or
accidental deployment of the airbag could
occur.
1Using a large syringe or hand pump, empty
the power steering fluid reservoir.
2Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the vehicle
and support it securely on axle stands.
Remove the wheels.
3Mark the relationship of the steering shaft
U-joint to the steering gear pinion shaft (see
illustration)to ensure proper alignment when
they’re reassembled. Remove the nut and bolt
that clamp the U-joint to the pinion shaft.
4Disconnect the power steering pressure
and return lines from the steering gear. Place
a container under the lines to catch spilledfluid. Plug the lines to prevent excessive fluid
loss and contamination. Discard the sealing
washers (new ones should be used when
reassembling).
5Disconnect the tie-rod ends from the
steering knuckle arms (see Section 17).
6Remove the nuts and bolts from the steering
gear mounting brackets (see illustration).
7Remove the steering gear assembly,
detaching the U-joint as you lower it. Don’t
damage the steering gear dust boots.
8Refitting is the reverse of removal. Ensure the
marks you made on the U-joint and the pinion
shaft are aligned before you tighten the U-joint
clamp bolt and nut. Tighten the mounting bolts,
the tie-rod end nuts and the U-joint shaft
clamping bolts to the specified torque.
9After lowering the vehicle, fill the reservoir
with the recommended fluid (see Chapter 1).
10Bleed the power steering system (see
Section 19).
11Have the front wheels aligned by a dealer
service department or alignment workshop
after reassembly.
18 Power steering pump-
removal and refitting
3
1Raise the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands. Remove the engine under-cover.
2Loosen the hose clamp and disconnect the
fluid return hose from the top of the pump
(see illustration)and drain the power steering
fluid from the reservoir into a clean container.
Unscrew the pressure line fitting from the
back of the pump. Plug the return hose and
the pressure line to prevent fluid from leaking
and to protect the power steering system
from contamination.
3Remove the bolts (see illustration)that
attach the power steering pump adapter to
the auxiliary shaft housing.
4Remove the power steering pump and
adapter.
5Take the power steering pump and adapter
to a Jaguar dealer service department and
have the adapter removed from the old pump
10•10 Suspension and steering systems
18.2 Disconnect the steering fluid return hose from the upper
pipe (arrowed) and disconnect the pressure line
from the back of the pump18.3 To detach the pump adapter from the auxiliary shaft
housing, remove these bolts
3261 Jaguar XJ6 17.3 Mark the relationship of the steering shaft U-joint to the
steering gear pinion shaft, then unscrew the pressure and return
line fittings (arrowed) - plug the lines to prevent contamination
from entering the system
17.6 To detach the steering gear from the vehicle, remove these
nuts and bolts (arrowed) from the mounting brackets (right
bracket shown, left bracket similar)

and installed on a new or rebuilt pump. (This
procedure requires special tools, and the
height of the driven coupling on the shaft
must be set with a depth gauge.)
6Refitting is the reverse of removal. Study
the accompanying photos carefully before
reattaching the adapter to the auxiliary shaft
housing (see illustrations). Be sure to tighten
the fasteners securely.
7Top up the fluid level in the reservoir (see
“Weekly checks” for vehicles with a separate
power steering system, or Chapter 1 for
vehicles with a power hydraulic system) and
bleed the system (Section 19).
19 Power steering system-
bleeding
1
1To bleed the power steering system, begin
by checking the power steering fluid level and
adding fluid if necessary (see “Weekly checks”
or Chapter 1, dependent on system fitted).
2Raise and support the front of the vehicle
on axle stands.
3Turn the steering wheel from lock-to-lock
several times and recheck the fluid level.
4Start the engine. Turn the steering wheel
from lock-to-lock again (three or four times)
and recheck the fluid level one more time.
5Lower the car to the ground. Run the
engine and again turn the wheels from lock-
to-lock several more times. Set the wheels
straight ahead and recheck the fluid level.
20 Wheels and tyres-
general information
1All vehicles covered by this manual are
equipped with steel belted radial tyres. Use ofother size or type of tyres may affect the ride
and handling of the vehicle. Don’t mix
different types of tyres, such as radials and
bias belted, on the same vehicle as handling
may be seriously affected. It’s recommended
that tyres be replaced in pairs on the same
axle, but if only one tyre is being replaced, be
sure it’s the same size, structure and tread
design as the other.
2Because tyre pressure has a substantial
effect on handling and wear, the pressure on
all tyres should be checked at least once a
month or before any extended trips (see
Chapter 1).
3Wheels must be replaced if they are bent,
dented, leak air, have elongated bolt holes,
are heavily rusted, out of vertical symmetry or
if the wheel nuts won’t stay tight. Wheel
repairs that use welding or peening are not
recommended.
4Tyre and wheel balance is important in the
overall handling, braking and performance of
the vehicle. Unbalanced wheels can adversely
affect handling and ride characteristics as well
as tyre life. Whenever a tyre is installed on a
wheel, the tyre and wheel should be balanced
by a workshop with the proper equipment.
21 Wheel alignment-
general information
A wheel alignment refers to the adjustments
made to the wheels so they are in proper
angular relationship to the suspension and the
ground. Wheels that are out of proper
alignment not only affect vehicle control, but
also increase tyre wear. The alignment angles
normally measured are camber, caster and
toe-in (see illustration). Front-wheel toe-in and
caster are adjustable; camber is not adjustable.
Suspension and steering systems 10•11
10
3261 Jaguar XJ6 18.6a This driven coupling is the reason
you can’t remove the adapter from the
pump at home; this requires special tools,
and the coupling must be installed on the
shaft of the new or rebuilt pump at a very
precise height - if you try to pry off the
coupling, you will damage it
18.6b The coupling disc fits onto the
driven coupling on the pump side . . .18.6c . . . and on the drive coupling on the
auxiliary shaft side; note that the two lugs on
each drive coupling fit into their
corresponding slots in the coupling disc,
180° apart - all four lugs must be properly
engaged or you won’t be able to bolt the
adapter to the auxiliary shaft housing
21.1 Front end alignment details
A minus B = C (degrees camber)
E minus F = toe-in (measured in inches)
G - toe-in (expressed in degrees)

spray painting technique is mastered. Cover
the repair area with a thick coat of primer. The
thickness should be built up using several thin
layers of primer rather than one thick one.
Using 600-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper, rub
down the surface of the primer until it is very
smooth. While doing this, the work area
should be thoroughly rinsed with water and
the wet-or-dry sandpaper periodically rinsed
as well. Allow the primer to dry before
spraying additional coats.
21Spray on the top coat, again building up
the thickness by using several thin layers of
paint. Begin spraying at the top of the repair
area and then, using a side-to-side motion,
work down until the whole repair area and
about two inches of the surrounding original
paint is covered. Remove all masking material
10 to 15 minutes after spraying on the final
coat of paint. Allow the new paint at least two
weeks to harden, then use a very fine rubbing
compound to blend the edges of the new
paint into the existing paint. Finally, apply a
coat of wax.
6 Body repair- major damage
5
1Major damage must be repaired by an auto
body workshop specifically equipped to
perform unibody repairs. These workshops
have the specialised equipment required to
do the job properly.
2If the damage is extensive, the body must
be checked for proper alignment or the
vehicle’s handling characteristics may be
adversely affected and other components
may wear at an accelerated rate.
3Due to the fact that most of the major body
components (bonnet, front wings, etc.) are
separate and replaceable units, any seriously
damaged components should be replaced
rather than repaired. Sometimes thecomponents can be found in a scrapyard that
specialises in used vehicle components, often
at considerable savings over the cost of new
parts.
7 Hinges and locks-
maintenance
1
Once every 3000 miles, or every three
months, the hinges and latch assemblies on
the doors, bonnet and boot should be given a
few drops of light oil or lock lubricant. The
door latch strikers should also be lubricated
with a thin coat of grease to reduce wear and
ensure free movement. Lubricate the door
and boot locks with spray-on graphite
lubricant.
8 Windscreen and fixed glass-
replacement
5
Replacement of the windscreen and fixed
glass requires the use of special fast-setting
adhesive/caulk materials and some
specialised tools. It is recommended that
these operations be left to a dealer or a
workshop specialising in glass work.
9 Bonnet and boot lid support
struts- removal and refitting
1
1Open the bonnet or boot lid and support it
securely.
2Using a small screwdriver, detach the
retaining clips at both ends of the support
strut. Then pry or pull sharply to detach it from
the vehicle(see illustrations).
3Refitting is the reverse of removal.
10 Bonnet- removal,
refitting and adjustment
2
Note:The bonnet is heavy and somewhat
awkward to remove and refit - at least two
people should perform this procedure.
Removal and refitting
1Use blankets or pads to cover the wings
and the area in front of the bonnet. This will
protect the body and paint as the bonnet is
lifted off.
2Make marks or scribe a line around the
bonnet hinge to ensure proper alignment
during refitting.
3Disconnect any cables or wires that will
interfere with removal.
4Have an assistant support the bonnet.
Remove the hinge-to-bonnet screws or bolts
(see illustration).
5Lift off the bonnet.
6Refitting is the reverse of removal.
Adjustment
7Before the bonnet can be adjusted
properly, both bonnet striker assemblies
Bodywork and fittings 11•3
1110.4 With the help of an assistant to hold
the bonnet, remove the retaining bolts
(arrowed) from each hinge plate, then lift
off the bonnet
3261 Jaguar XJ69.2b The boot lid support strut requires prising out a locking pin
to detach it from the locating stud
9.2a Use a small screwdriver to prise the clip out of its locking
groove, then detach the end of the strut from the mounting stud