boot JAGUAR XJ6 1997 2.G Workshop Manual

3261 Jaguar XJ6
0•8Roadside repairs
The spare wheel and tools are stored in
the boot. Remove the carpet cover then
unscrew the retainer and lift out the spare
wheel from the boot.
Wheel changing
Some of the details shown here will vary
according to model. For instance, the location
of the spare wheel and jack is not the same
on all cars. However, the basic principles
apply to all vehicles.Warning: Do not change a wheel in a situation where you risk being hit by
other traffic. On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by or a gateway. Be wary of
passing traffic while changing the wheel – it is easy to become distracted by
the job in hand.
Finally...
MRemove the wheel chocks.
MCheck the tyre pressure on the wheel just
fitted. If it is low, or if you don’t have a
pressure gauge with you, drive slowly to
the nearest garage and inflate the tyre to
the right pressure.
MHave the damaged tyre or wheel repaired
as soon as possible.
Remove the plastic cover from the end of
the vehicle jack lifting point tube, nearest
to the wheel that is being changed.Slide the lifting bracket of the jack fully
into the lifting point tube. Make sure the
jack is located on firm ground.Raise the jack until the wheel is raised
clear of the ground. Unscrew the wheel
nuts and remove the wheel. Fit the spare
wheel and screw on the nuts. Lightly tighten
the nuts then lower the vehicle to the ground.
With the vehicle on the ground, remove
the trim cap (where fitted) and slacken
each wheel nut by half a turn.Remove the jack and wheelbrace its
holder which is located behind the spare
wheel.123
4
Securely tighten the wheel nuts in a
diagonal sequence then (where necessary)
refit the wheel trim cap. Stow the tolls and
punctured wheel and back in the luggage
compartment and secure them in position.
Note that the wheel nuts should be slackened
and retightened to the specified torque at the
earliest possible opportunity.7
56
Preparation
MWhen a puncture occurs, stop as soon as
it is safe to do so.
MPark on firm level ground, if possible,
and well out of the way of other traffic.
MUse hazard warning lights if necessary. MIf you have one, use a warning triangle to
alert other drivers of your presence.
MApply the handbrake and engage first or
reverse gear (or Park on models with
automatic transmission.MChock the wheel diagonally opposite the
one being removed – a couple of large
stones will do for this.
MIf the ground is soft, use a flat piece of
wood to spread the load under the jack.
Changing the wheel

Maintenance - component location 1•5
1
3261 Jaguar XJ6
Front underbody view
1 Air conditioning compressor
2 Drivebelts
3 Anti-roll bar
4 Alternator
5 Lower radiator hose
6 Lower control arm
7 Steering gear boot
8 Steering gear
9 Engine sump drain plug
10 Exhaust system
11 Outer tie-rod end
Rear underbody view (typical)
1 Rear suspension control arms
2 Differential drain plug
3 Differential filler plug
(not visible)
4 Exhaust pipe
5 Driveshaft
6 Silencers
7 Handbrake cable
8 Fuel filter

3Inspect each of the new plugs for defects. If
there are any signs of cracks in the porcelain
insulator of a plug, don’t use it.
4Check the electrode gaps of the new plugs.
Check the gap by inserting the wire gauge of
the proper thickness between the electrodes
at the tip of the plug (see illustration). The
gap between the electrodes should be
identical to that listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications or on the VECI label (as
applicable). If the gap is incorrect, use the
notched adjuster on the feeler gauge body to
bend the curved side electrode slightly (see
illustration).
5If the side electrode is not exactly over the
centre electrode, use the notched adjuster to
align them.Caution: If the gap of a new plug must be
adjusted, bend only the base of the earth
electrode - do not touch the tip.
Removal
6To prevent the possibility of mixing up
spark plug leads, work on one spark plug at a
time. Remove the lead and boot from one
spark plug. Grasp the boot - not the lead - as
shown, give it a half twisting motion and pull
straight up (see illustration).
7If compressed air is available, blow any dirt
or foreign material away from the spark plug
area before proceeding (a common bicycle
pump will also work).
8Remove the spark plug (see illustration).9Whether you are replacing the plugs at this
time or intend to re-use the old plugs,
compare each old spark plug with the chart
shown on the inside back cover of this manual
to determine the overall running condition of
the engine.
Refitting
10Prior to refitting, apply a coat of anti-seize
compound to the plug threads (see
illustration). It’s often difficult to insert spark
plugs into their holes without cross-threading
them. To avoid this possibility, fit a short piece
of 3/8-inch internal diameter (ID) rubber hose
over the end of the spark plug (see Haynes
Hint). The flexible hose acts as a universal
joint to help align the plug with the plug hole.
Should the plug begin to cross-thread, the
hose will slip on the spark plug, preventing
thread damage. Tighten the plug to the torque
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. In the
absence of a torque wrench, tighten each
plug until you feel it seat, and then by a further
quarter-turn only. Do not overtighten the
spark plugs.
11Attach the plug lead to the new spark
plug, again using a twisting motion on the
boot until it is firmly seated on the end of the
spark plug.
12Follow the above procedure for the
remaining spark plugs, replacing them one at
a time to prevent mixing up the spark plug
leads.
1•8Every 7500 miles or 6 months
4.4a Spark plug manufacturers
recommend using a wire-type gauge when
checking the gap - if the wire does not
slide between the electrodes with a slight
drag, adjustment is required4.4b To change the gap, bend the side
electrode only, as indicated by the arrows,
and be very careful not to crack or chip the
porcelain insulator surrounding the
centre electrode4.6 When removing the spark plug leads,
grasp only the boot and use a
twisting/pulling motion
4.8 Use a spark plug socket with a long
extension to unscrew the spark plugs
3261 Jaguar XJ6
4.1 Tools required for changing
spark plugs
1 Spark plug socket - This will have special
padding inside to protect the spark plug
porcelain insulator
2 Torque wrench - Although not mandatory,
use of this tool is the best way to ensure
that the plugs are tightened properly
3 Ratchet - to fit the plug socket
4 Extension - Depending on model and
accessories, you may need special
extensions and universal joints to reach
one or more of the plugs
5 Spark plug gap gauge - This gauge for
checking the gap comes in a variety of
styles. Make sure the gap for your engine
is included
4.10 Apply a coat of anti-seize compound
to the spark plug threads
A length of 3/8-inch ID rubber hose will
save time and prevent damaged
threads when refitting the spark plugs

position, a worn or weak shock absorber is
probably the reason.
4Repeat the above check at each of the
three remaining corners of the vehicle.
Under the vehicle
5Raise the vehicle with a trolley jack and
support it securely on axle stands. See
“Jacking and towing”for proper jacking
points.
6Check the shock absorbers for evidence of
fluid leakage. Make sure that any fluid noted is
from the shocks and not from any other
source. Also check the rubber mounts at each
end for deterioration If the shock absorbers
fail any of the tests above replace the shocks
as a set.
7Check the tyres for irregular wear patterns
and proper inflation. See “Weekly checks”for
information regarding tyre wear.
8Inspect the universal joint between the
steering shaft and the steering gear housing.
Check the steering gear housing for grease
leakage. Make sure that the dust seals and
boots are not damaged and that the boot
clamps are not loose (see illustration). Check
the steering linkage for looseness or damage.
Look for loose bolts, broken or disconnected
parts and deteriorated rubber bushings on all
suspension and steering components (see
illustration). While an assistant turns the
steering wheel from side to side, check the
steering components for free movement,
chafing and binding. If the steering
components do not seem to be reacting with
the movement of the steering wheel, try to
determine where the slack is located.
9Check the balljoints moving each lower arm
up and down with a crowbar to ensure that its
balljoint has no play. If any balljoint does have
play, replace it. See Chapter 10 for the front
balljoint renewal procedure. Check the tie-rod
ends for excessive play.
10Inspect the balljoint and tie-rod end boots
for damage and leaking grease (see
illustration. Replace the balljoints and tie-rod
ends with new ones if they are damaged (see
Chapter 10).
13 Seat belt check
1
1Check the seat belts, buckles, latch plates
and guide loops for any obvious damage or
signs of wear.
2Make sure the seat belt reminder light
comes on when the key is turned on.
3The seat belts are designed to lock up
during a sudden stop or impact, yet allow free
movement during normal driving. The
retractors should hold the belt against your
chest while driving and rewind the belt when
the buckle is unlatched.
4If any of the above checks reveal problems
with the seat-belt system, replace parts as
necessary.Note:Check with your local dealer
service department; the seat belt system
should be covered under the factory warranty.
14 General lubrication
2
1Obtain a good quality, multi-purpose
lithium-base grease. You’ll also need a grease
gun and other materials to properly lubricate
the chassis (see illustration). Occasionallyplugs will be installed rather than grease
fittings. If so, grease fittings will have to be
purchased and installed.
2Look under the car and see if grease fittings
or plugs are installed. If there are plugs,
remove them and buy grease fittings, which
will thread into the component. A dealer or
motor factors will be able to supply the
correct fittings. Straight, as well as angled,
fittings are available.
3For easier access under the car, raise it with
a jack and place axle stands under the
chassis. Make sure it’s safely supported by
the stands. If the wheels are to be removed at
this interval for tyre rotation or brake
inspection, loosen the wheel nuts slightly
while the car is still on the ground.
4Before beginning, force a little grease out of
the nozzle to remove any dirt from the end of
the gun. Wipe the nozzle clean with a rag.
5With the grease gun and plenty of clean
rags, crawl under the car and begin
lubricating all the front suspension parts that
are equipped with a grease fitting.
6Lubricate the rear driveshafts (see
illustration). Wipe each fitting clean and push
the nozzle firmly over it. Pump the gun until
grease is expelled from the U-joint cap seal.
7Wipe away any excess grease from the
components and the grease fitting. Repeat
the procedure for the remaining fittings.
Every 7500 miles or 6 months 1•13
1
14.1 Materials required for chassis
and body lubrication
3261 Jaguar XJ6 12.8a Check the steering gear dust boots
for cracks and leaking steering fluid
12.8b Check the anti-roll bar bushings
(arrowed) for deterioration at the front and
the rear of the vehicle12.10 Inspect the balljoint and tie-rod end
boots for tears - tears or damage in either
boot will allow contamination of the grease
which will lead to premature failure
1 Engine oil - Light engine oil in a can like
this can be used for door and bonnet
hinges
2 Graphite spray - Used to lubricate lock
cylinders
3 Grease - Grease, in a variety of types and
weights, is available for use in a grease
gun.
4 Grease gun - A common grease gun,
shown here with a detachable hose and
nozzle, is needed for chassis lubrication.
After use, clean it thoroughly

hand tools to remove. Simply slide back the
locking collars and remove the inlet and outlet
fuel lines (see illustration). Detach the filter
mounting bracket and discard the old filter in
a proper container.
5Note the direction of the arrow on the
outside of the filter; it should be pointed
towards the front of the car. Make sure the
new filter is installed so that it’s facing the
proper direction. Note:Always refit new
copper washers where equipped.
6Refit the inlet and outlet fittings then tighten
the filter mounting bracket. Reconnect the
battery cable, start the engine and check for
leaks.
19 Ignition system check
2
1The spark plug leads should be checked
whenever new spark plugs are installed.
2Begin this procedure by making a visual
check of the spark plug leads while the engine
is running. In a darkened garage (make sure
there is adequate ventilation) start the engine
and observe each plug lead. Be careful not to
come into contact with any moving engine
parts. If there is a break in the lead, you will
see arcing or a small spark at the damaged
area. If arcing is noticed, make a note to
obtain new leads, then allow the engine to
cool and check the distributor cap and rotor.
3The spark plug leads should be inspected
one at a time to prevent mixing up the order,
which is essential for proper engine operation.
Each original plug lead should be numbered
to help identify its location. If the number is
illegible, a piece of tape can be marked with
the correct number and wrapped around the
plug lead.
4Disconnect the plug lead from the spark
plug. A removal tool can be used for this
purpose or you can grasp the rubber boot,
twist the boot half a turn and pull the boot
free. Do not pull on the lead itself.
5Check inside the boot for corrosion, which
will look like a white crusty powder.6Push the lead and boot back onto the end
of the spark plug. It should fit tightly onto the
end of the plug. If it doesn’t, remove the lead
and use pliers to carefully crimp the metal
connector inside the lead boot until the fit is
snug.
7Using a clean rag, wipe the entire length of
the lead to remove built-up dirt and grease.
Once the lead is clean, check for burns,
cracks and other damage. Do not bend the
lead sharply, because the conductor might
break.
8Disconnect the spark plug lead from the
distributor cap. Again, pull only on the rubber
boot. Check for corrosion and a tight fit.
Reinsert the lead in the distributor cap.
9Inspect the remaining spark plug leads,
making sure that each one is securely
fastened at the distributor and spark plug
when the check is complete.10If new spark plug leads are required,
purchase a set for your specific engine model.
Remove and replace the leads one at a time
to avoid mix-ups in the firing order.
11Detach the distributor cap by unsnapping
the cap retaining clips. Look inside it for
cracks, carbon tracks and worn, burned or
loose contacts (see illustrations).
12Pull the rotor off the distributor shaft and
examine it for cracks and carbon tracks (see
illustrations). Replace the cap and rotor if any
damage or defects are noted.
13It is common practice to refit a new cap
and rotor whenever new spark plug leads are
installed. When refitting a new cap, remove
the leads from the old cap one at a time and
attach them to the new cap in the exact same
location Note:If an accidental mix-up occurs,
refer to the firing order Specifications at the
beginning of this Chapter.
Every 15 000 miles or 12 months 1•15
1
19.11a Unsnap the distributor cap
retaining clips - pull the cap up and away
to access the rotor
19.11b Shown here are some of the
common defects to look for when
inspecting the distributor cap (typical cap
shown). If in doubt about its condition,
fit a new one
19.12a Pull off the rotor (arrowed) and
inspect it thoroughly
19.12b Check the ignition rotor for wear
and corrosion as indicated here (if in doubt
about its condition, buy a new one)
3261 Jaguar XJ6 18.3 Remove the banjo bolt from the
outlet side (B), detach the fitting from the
inlet side (A) and unscrew the filter
mounting bolt (C)
18.4 On 1991 to 1994 models, slide back
the locking collars and remove the inlet
and outlet fuel lines

attached to the bolt threaded into the
front of the crankshaft. Apply pressure on
the bolt in a clockwise direction only.
Never turn the bolt anti-clockwise.
b) A remote starter switch, which may save
some time, can also be used. Follow the
instructions included with the switch.
Once the piston is close to TDC, use a
socket and ratchet as described in the
previous paragraph.
c) If an assistant is available to turn the
ignition switch to the Start position in
short bursts, you can get the piston close
to TDC without a remote starter switch.
Make sure your assistant is out of the car,
away from the ignition switch, then use a
socket and ratchet as described in
Paragraph a) to complete the procedure.
5Note the position of the terminal for the
number one spark plug lead on the distributor
cap. If the terminal isn’t marked, follow the
plug lead from the number one cylinder spark
plug to the cap.
6Use a felt-tip pen or chalk to make a mark
on the distributor body directly under the
number one terminal (see Chapter 5).
7Detach the cap from the distributor and set
it aside (see Chapter 1 if necessary).
8Turn the crankshaft until the small triangle
cast into the front edge of the crankshaft
sensor ring is aligned with the bottom edge of
the timing pointer located at the front of the
engine(see illustration).
9Look at the distributor rotor - it should be
pointing directly at the mark you made on the
distributor body. If so, you are at TDC for
number 1 cylinder.
10If the rotor is 180° off, the number one
piston is at TDC on the exhaust stroke.
11To get the piston to TDC on the
compression stroke, turn the crankshaft one
complete revolution (360°) clockwise. The
rotor should now be pointing at the mark
on the distributor. When the rotor is pointing
at the number one spark plug lead terminal in
the distributor cap and the ignition timing
marks are aligned, the number one piston is atTDC on the compression stroke. Note:If it’s
impossible to align the ignition timing marks
when the rotor is pointing at the mark on the
distributor body, the timing chain may have
jumped the teeth on the pulleys or may have
been installed incorrectly.
12After the number one piston has been
positioned at TDC on the compression stroke,
TDC for any of the remaining cylinders can be
located by turning the crankshaft and
following the firing order. Mark the remaining
spark plug lead terminal locations on the
distributor body just like you did for the
number one terminal, then number the marks
to correspond with the cylinder numbers. As
you turn the crankshaft, the rotor will also
turn. When it’s pointing directly at one of the
marks on the distributor, the piston for that
particular cylinder is at TDC on the
compression stroke.
4 Valve cover-
removal and refitting
1
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative cable.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, makesure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
2Detach the PCV hose from the valve cover
(see illustration).
3Remove the spark plug leads from the
spark plugs, handling them by the boots and
not pulling on the wires.
4Remove the valve cover mounting screws,
then detach the valve cover and gasket from
the cylinder head. If the valve cover is stuck
to the cylinder head, bump the end with a
wood block and a hammer to jar it loose. If
that doesn’t work, try to slip a flexible putty
knife between the cylinder head and valve
cover to break the seal.
Caution: Don’t pry at the valve cover-to-
cylinder head joint or damage to the
sealing surfaces may occur, leading to oil
leaks after the valve cover is reinstalled.
Refitting
5The mating surfaces of the cylinder head
and valve cover must be clean when the valve
cover is installed. If there’s residue or oil on
the mating surfaces when the valve cover is
installed, oil leaks may develop.
6Apply RTV sealant around the two half-
circle rubber plugs at the rear of the cylinder
head (see illustration).
7Using a new gasket and spark plug tube
seals, refit the valve cover (see illustration).
Engine in-car repair procedures 2A•3
2A
4.6 Apply RTV sealant to the half-circle
plugs and insert them into the cylinder
head before refitting the valve cover4.7 Press the valve cover gasket into the
groove around the valve cover and fit a
new set of spark plug tube seals (arrowed)
3261 Jaguar XJ6 3.8 Align the mark on the crankshaft sensor ring (arrowed) with
the bottom edge of the pointer on the front cover
4.2 Disconnect the PCV hose (arrowed) from the valve cover, then
pull the spark plug leads out by their boots, not the leads

special electrical device that provides circuit
protection by switching off the ignition and
fuel pump upon impact in the event of vehicle
collision. Later Jaguar models are equipped
with an additional specialised inertia switch.
This later device switches OFF all ignition fed
circuits, locks the fuel filler cap, locks the boot
(only if doors are locked) and unlocks the
doors if they are locked during the accident.
All these functions are directed by the inertia
switch. The inertia switch is located behind
the left kick panel. Refer to Chapter 12 for
more information.
Exhaust system
The exhaust system includes an exhaust
manifold equipped with an exhaust oxygen
sensor, a catalytic converter, an exhaust pipe,
and a silencer.
The catalytic converter is an emission
control device added to the exhaust system to
reduce pollutants. A single-bed converter is
used in combination with a three-way
(reduction) catalyst. See Chapter 6 for more
information regarding the catalytic converter.
2 Fuel pressure relief
1
Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when you work on
any part of the fuel system.
Don’t smoke or allow open flames or bare
light bulbs near the work area, and don’t
work in a garage where a natural gas-type
appliance (such as a water heater or a
clothes dryer) with a pilot light is present.
Since petrol is carcinogenic, wear latex
gloves when there’s a possibility of being
exposed to fuel, and, if you spill any fuel on
your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap
and water. Mop up any spills immediately
and do not store fuel-soaked rags wherethey could ignite. The fuel system is under
constant pressure, so, if any fuel lines are
to be disconnected, the fuel pressure in
the system must be relieved first. When
you perform any kind of work on the fuel
system, wear safety glasses and have a
Class B type fire extinguisher on hand.
1Before servicing any fuel system
component, you must relieve the fuel pressure
to minimise the risk of fire or personal injury.
2Remove the fuel filler cap - this will relieve
any pressure built up in the tank.
3Remove the fuel pump relay from the main
relay panel (see illustrations). Note:These
models are equipped with a fuel pump relay
that is located in various areas of the vehicle
depending on the year. On 1988 and 1989
models, the fuel pump relay is under the
glovebox. On 1990 to 1992 models, the fuel
pump relay is in the engine compartment on
the left side, attached to the brake pedal
hanger. On 1993 models, the fuel pump relay
is in the boot. On 1994 models, it’s in the
engine compartment on the right side of the
bulkhead. Refer to the relay location charts in
Chapter 12 for additional information.
4Start the engine and wait for the engine to
stall, then turn the ignition key to Off.
Disconnect the cable from the negativeterminal of the battery before beginning any
work on the fuel system.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
5The fuel system is now depressurised.
Note:Place a rag around the fuel line before
removing any hose clamp or fitting to prevent
any residual fuel from spilling onto the engine.
3 Fuel pump/fuel pressure-
check
2
Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when you work on
any part of the fuel system. See
the Warning in Section 2.
Note: To perform the fuel pressure test, you
will need to obtain a fuel pressure gauge and
adapter set (fuel line fittings).
Note: On 1988 to 1990 models, the fuel pump
may chatter excessively and the engine may
stall frequently during hot weather. If stalling
occurs, the engine will restart after a cool-
down period. Dual fuel pumps can be installed
by a dealer service department or other
qualified repair facility to remedy this problem.
Preliminary inspection
1Should the fuel system fail to deliver the
proper amount of fuel, or any fuel at all,
inspect it as follows. Remove the fuel filler
cap. Have an assistant turn the ignition key to
the ON position (engine not running) while you
listen at the fuel filler opening. You should
hear a whirring sound that lasts for a couple of
seconds. On 1988 to 1990 models, listen
behind the left rear wheel (external fuel pump)
for the fuel pump sound.
2If you don’t hear anything, check the fuel
pump relay (see illustration 2.3a, b or c)and
4•2 Fuel and exhaust systems
2.3c On 1992 models, the fuel pump relay
is located in the left rear corner of the
engine compartment
3261 Jaguar XJ6 2.3a Relay locations on a 1988 model
2.3b Relay locations on a 1989 model

circuit. If all circuits are intact and not
damaged, check the inertia switch. Note: The
inertia switch is a special device that shuts
down power to the ignition and the fuel pump
in the event of an accident. See Chapter 12 for
checking and resetting procedures for the
inertia switch.
3Remove the relay and check for battery
voltage to the fuel pump relay connector (see
illustration). If there is battery voltage
present, check the relay for proper operation.
Refer to the relay checking procedure in
Chapter 12. Note:If battery voltage is not
available, check for battery voltage to the main
relay(see illustration). Refer to the relay
location diagrams in Chapter 12. The main
relay, which is located next to the fuel pump
relay, supplies voltage to the fuel pump and
ignition system.
4If battery voltage is present, check for
battery voltage directly at the fuel pump
electrical connector (see illustrations), within
two seconds of the ignition key being turned
On. If there is no voltage, check the fuel pump
circuit. If there is voltage present, renew the
pump (see Section 4). Note:It will be
necessary to raise the vehicle and support it
securely on axle stands to gain access to the
fuel pump electrical connectors. Have an
assistant operate the ignition key and be sure
to block the front wheels to avoid any
movement of the vehicle.
Operating pressure check
5Relieve the fuel system pressure (see
Section 2). Detach the cable from the negative
battery terminal.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
6Detach the fuel line from the fuel rail and
connect a fuel pressure gauge(see
illustrations)between the fuel pulsationdamper and the fuel rail. Tighten the hose
clamps securely.
7Attach the cable to the negative battery
terminal. Start the engine.
8Note the fuel pressure and compare it with
the pressure listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications.
9Disconnect the vacuum hose from the fuelpressure regulator and hook up a hand-held
vacuum pump (see illustration)to the port on
the fuel pressure regulator.
10Read the fuel pressure gauge with vacuum
applied to the pressure regulator and also with
no vacuum applied. The fuel pressure should
decrease as vacuum increases (and increase
as vacuum decreases).
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•3
4
3261 Jaguar XJ6 3.3a Checking for battery voltage at the fuel pump relay
connector ( 1989 model)
3.3b Checking for battery voltage to the main relay (1989 model)
3.6a Remove the fuel line from the fuel
pulsation damper . . .
3.4b Check for battery voltage to the
fuel pump on the harness connector near
the fuel tank on models with in-tank
fuel pumps3.4a Remove the rubber boot from the fuel
pump electrical connector and check for
voltage while an assistant turns the
ignition key (1989 model shown)
3.6b . . . then refit the fuel pressure gauge
between the fuel rail and the fuel pressure
damper using a T-fitting

11Reconnect the vacuum hose to the
regulator and check the fuel pressure at idle,
comparing your reading with the value listed
in this Chapter’s Specifications. Disconnect
the vacuum hose and watch the gauge - the
pressure should jump up considerably as
soon as the hose is disconnected. If it
doesn’t, check for a vacuum signal to the fuel
pressure regulator (see Step 14).
12If the fuel pressure is low, pinch the fuel
return line shut (see illustration)and watch
the gauge. If the pressure doesn’t rise, the
fuel pump is defective or there is a restriction
or leak in the fuel feed line, or the pump is
faulty. If the pressure rises sharply, renew the
pressure regulator.
13If the fuel pressure is too high, turn the
engine off. Disconnect the fuel return line and
blow through it to check for a blockage. If
there is no blockage, renew the fuel pressure
regulator.
14Connect a vacuum gauge to the pressure
regulator vacuum hose. Start the engine and
check for vacuum (see illustration). The fuel
pressure regulator receives manifold vacuum
that decreases (increases fuel pressure) when
the engine speed is raised (acceleration). If
there isn’t vacuum present, check for a
clogged hose or vacuum port. If the amount ofvacuum is adequate but the pressure is too
high, renew the fuel pressure regulator.
15Turn the ignition switch to OFF, wait five
minutes and recheck the pressure on the
gauge. Compare the reading with the
specified hold pressure. If the hold pressure is
less than specified:
a) The fuel lines may be leaking.
b) The fuel pressure regulator may be
allowing the fuel pressure to bleed
through to the return line.
c) A fuel injector (or injectors) may be
leaking.
d) The fuel pump may be defective.
4 Fuel pump-
removal and refitting
3
Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when you work on
any part of the fuel system. See
the Warning in Section 2.
Note 1:On early models (1988 to 1990), an
electric fuel pump is attached to the chassis
next to the fuel tank. On later models (1991 to
1994), the fuel pump is inside the fuel tank.
Note 2: On 1988 to 1990 models, the fuel
pump may chatter excessively and the engine
may stall frequently during hot weather. If
stalling occurs, the engine will restart after a
cool-down period. Dual fuel pumps can be
installed by a dealer service department or
other qualified repair facility to remedy this
problem.
1Remove the fuel tank filler cap to relieve
any pressure in the fuel tank. Relieve the fuel
pressure (see Section 2).
2Disconnect the cable from the negative
terminal of the battery.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
External fuel pumps
3Raise the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands.
4Disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel pump.
5Disconnect the electrical connectors from
the fuel pump (see illustration 3.4a).
6Remove the fuel pump bracket retaining
nuts (see illustration).
7Carefully withdraw the fuel pump from the
rubber case inside the fuel pump bracket and
angle the fuel pump over the rear suspension
and out near the wheel on the left side of the
vehicle.
8Refitting is the reverse of removal.
In-tank fuel pumps
9Raise the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands.
10Disconnect the fuel pump and fuel level
sender unit electrical connectors and the fuel
lines.
11Remove the fuel tank from the boot (see
Section 7).
12Disconnect the fuel lines from the evap-
orative flange (see illustration). Remove the
lock ring with a hammer and brass punch,
tapping the lock ring anti-clockwise.
13Withdraw the fuel pump module from the
fuel tank. Note: The fuel pump module is
4•4 Fuel and exhaust systems
3.14 Connect a vacuum gauge to the
vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure
regulator and check the vacuum source4.6 Remove the fuel pump mounting nuts
(arrowed) and slide the fuel pump out of
the rubber casing (1989 model shown)
3261 Jaguar XJ6 3.9 Check fuel pressure without vacuum applied to the fuel
pressure regulator, then with vacuum applied; fuel pressure
should DECREASE as vacuum INCREASES
3.12 Using a pair of pliers, squeeze the return line and observe
the fuel pressure increase (wrap a rag around the fuel line so you
don’t damage it)

indexed near the bottom, therefore it will be
necessary to turn the module slightly to unlock
it from the rubber holder mounted on the
bottom of the fuel tank.
14Renew the fuel pump module as a single
unit.
15Refitting is the reverse of removal.
5 Fuel level sender unit- check
and renewal
3
Warning: Petrol is highly
flammable, so take precautions
when you work on any part of
the fuel system. See the
Warning in Section 2.
Note:Some 1994 models may be equipped
with faulty fuel level sender units. A tight float
rod bushing may cause the float to stick and
indicate high fuel levels while the tank is
almost empty.
Check
1Before performing any tests on the fuel
level sender unit, completely fill the tank with
fuel.
2Remove the boot liner (see Chapter 12) to
expose the fuel level sender unit access
cover.
3Disconnect the fuel level sender unit
electrical connector located on the accesscover.Note:1991 to 1994 models are
equipped with a fuel pump module and a
sender unit assembly while 1988 and 1989
models are equipped with only the fuel level
sender unit inside the tank.
4Position the ohmmeter probes on the
electrical connector terminals (see
illustration)and check for resistance. Use the
200 ohm scale on the ohmmeter.
5With the fuel tank completely full, the
resistance should be about 18 to 20 ohms.
6Reconnect the electrical connector and
drive it until the tank is nearly empty.
7Check the resistance. The resistance of the
sender unit should be about 190 to 200 ohms.8If the readings are incorrect, renew the
sender unit. Note:The test can also be
performed with the fuel level sender unit
removed from the fuel tank. Using an
ohmmeter, check the resistance of the sender
unit with the swing arm completely down (tank
empty) and with the arm up (tank full) (see
illustration). The resistance should change
steadily from 200 ohms to around 18 ohms.
Renewal
Warning: The fuel level in the
tank must be less than half full
to safely remove the fuel
pump/sender unit assembly from the fuel
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•5
4
5.4 Connect the probes of the ohmmeter
to the fuel level sender unit terminals and
check the resistance of the float assembly5.8 An accurate check of the sender unit
can be made by removing it from the fuel
tank and observing the resistance with the
float down (empty) and then extended (full)
3261 Jaguar XJ6
4.12 Exploded view of the in-
tank fuel pump and the fuel tank
on 1991 to 1994 models