o2 location JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE 2002 WJ / 2.G Workshop Manual

REAR CASE
(1) Support transfer case so rear case is facing
upward.
(2) Remove bolts holding front case to rear case.
The case alignment bolt require flat washers (Fig.
13).
(3) Loosen rear case with flat blade screwdriver to
break sealer bead. Insert screwdriver blade only into
notches provided at each end of case (Fig. 14).
(4) Remove rear case (Fig. 15).
PROGRESSIVE COUPLING
(1) Remove oil pump locating snap-ring and pro-
gressive coupling thrust washer from the mainshaft
(Fig. 16).
(2) Remove progressive coupling from mainshaft
(Fig. 16).
Fig. 13 Rear Case Alignment Bolt Locations
1 - ALIGNMENT BOLT AND WASHER (AT EACH END OF CASE)
Fig. 14 Loosening Rear Case
1 - REAR CASE
2 - PRY TOOL (IN CASE SLOT)
3 - FRONT CASE
Fig. 15 Rear Case Removal
1 - REAR HOUSING
2 - MAINSHAFT
3 - TRANSFER CASE
Fig. 16 Progressive Coupling Removal
1 - SNAP-RING
2 - PROGRESSIVE COUPLING
21 - 320 TRANSFER CASE - NV247WJ
TRANSFER CASE - NV247 (Continued)

INPUT AND LOW RANGE GEARS
Inspect the low range gear pinions and pinion pins.
Replace the low range gear if any of the pins or pin-
ions are worn or damaged.
Inspect the thrust washers, retainer, and snap-
ring. Replace the snap-ring if bent, or distorted.
Replace the thrust washers and retainer if worn,
cracked or damaged in any way.
Examine the input gear carefully. Be sure the gear
teeth and bearing surfaces are in good condition.
Replace the gear if wear or damage is evident.
Check the input gear pilot bearing. Rotate the
bearing and check for roughness or noise. Also check
bearing position in the bore. The bearing should be
recessed approximately 2.5 mm (0.100 in.) below the
top edge of the bore. The bearing should not be
seated at the bottom of the bore. Replace the bearing
if worn, or roughness is evident. Replace both the
gear and bearing if the bearing is a loose fit in the
bore.
GEAR CASE AND RETAINERS
Examine both case halves and retainers carefully.
Replace any retainer or case half if wear, cracks, or
other damage is evident.
Check condition of the low range annulus gear and
the shift rail bushing in the front case (Fig. 32). The
low range annulus gear is not a serviceable part.
Replace the gear and case as an assembly if the gear
is loose, worn, or damaged. The shift rail bushing is
a serviceable part and can be replaced if necessary.
Check the bushing in the rear retainer. Replace the
bushing if worn or scored.
Examine the sealing surfaces of both case halves
and retainers. Small burrs, or scratches on these sur-
faces can be reduced with crocus cloth or a fine tooth
file.
Examine condition of the shift rail bushing in the
front case. If the bushing is worn or damaged, it can
be removed with a blind hole type puller. A replace-
ment bushing can be installed with a suitable size
driver. Recess the bushing slightly below the edge of
the bore but do not seat it all the into the case.
GEARTRAIN
Inspect the mainshaft splines, gear teeth and bear-
ing surfaces carefully for evidence of wear, or dam-
age. Replace the shaft if necessary. do not attempt to
salvage it if damaged.
The shift rail and range fork are an assembly.
Replace both parts if either is damaged. However, the
nylon pads in the fork can be replaced if worn, or
cracked.
Inspect the transfer case snap-rings closely. Do not
attempt to salvage a distorted snap-ring by straight-ening or reshaping it. Replace any snap-ring that is
distorted, or worn.
Inspect the low range gear, input gear and the gear
thrust washers retainer, and snap-ring. The low
range gear is serviced as an assembly only. Replace
the gear if the case or pinions are damaged.
During inspection, also make sure the seal surface
of the input gear is in good condition. Minor nicks on
this surface can be reduced with crocus cloth. How-
ever, replace the gear if the seal surface is severely
scored or worn.
OIL PUMP AND PROGRESSIVE COUPLING
The oil pump and progressive coupling are not ser-
viceable components. Replace the coupling as an
assembly if it is damaged. Replace the oil pump as
an assembly if the gear teeth are worn, or if the
pump has become damaged.
BEARINGS AND SEALS
The transfer case seals should be replaced during
overhaul. Use new seals in the input gear bearing
retainer, front case and rear retainer. Also replace
the yoke seal washer and the detent plug O-ring.
Check condition of each transfer case bearing.
Replace any bearing exhibiting signs of roughness,
wear, or damage.
Fig. 32 Low Range Annulus Gear Location
1 - LOW RANGE ANNULUS GEAR
2 - SHIFT RAIL BUSHING
WJTRANSFER CASE - NV247 21 - 325
TRANSFER CASE - NV247 (Continued)

FLUID
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FLUID DRAIN/
REFILL
The fill and drain plugs are both in the rear case
(Fig. 72).
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Position drain pan under transfer case.
(3) Remove drain and fill plugs and drain lubri-
cant completely.
(4) Install drain plug. Tighten plug to 20-34 N´m
(15-25 ft. lbs.).
(5) Remove drain pan.(6) Fill transfer case to bottom edge of fill plug
opening with MopartTransfer Case Lubricant.
(7) Install and tighten fill plug to 20-34 N´m
(15-25 ft. lbs.).
(8) Lower vehicle.
FRONT OUTPUT SHAFT SEAL
REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(2) Remove front propeller shaft. (Refer to 3 - DIF-
FERENTIAL & DRIVELINE/PROPELLER SHAFT/
PROPELLER SHAFT - REMOVAL)
(3) Remove front output shaft companion shaft.
(4) Remove seal from front case with pry tool (Fig.
73).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install new front output seal in front case with
Installer Tool 6952-A as follows:
(a) Place new seal on tool. Garter spring on seal
goes toward interior of case.
(b) Start seal in bore with light taps from ham-
mer (Fig. 74). Once seal is started, continue tap-
ping seal into bore until installer tool seats against
case.
(2) Install companion flange and torque nut to
122-176 N´m (90-130 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install front propeller shaft. (Refer to 3 - DIF-
FERENTIAL & DRIVELINE/PROPELLER SHAFT/
PROPELLER SHAFT - INSTALLATION)
Installer, Bearign - 8128
Installer, Seal - 7884
Fig. 72 Fill/Drain Plug and I.D. Tag Location -
Typical
1 - I.D. TAG
2 - FILL PLUG
3 - DRAIN PLUG
Fig. 73 Remove Front Output Shaft Seal
1 - OUTPUT SHAFT SEAL
2 - PRYBAR
21 - 338 TRANSFER CASE - NV247WJ
TRANSFER CASE - NV247 (Continued)

(1) Remove tire from wheel and mount wheel on
service dynamic balance machine.
(2) Check wheel radial runout (Fig. 2) and lateral
runout (Fig. 3).
²STEEL WHEELS: Radial runout 0.040 in., Lat-
eral runout 0.045 in. (maximum)
²ALUMINUM WHEELS: Radial runout 0.030 in.,
Lateral runout 0.035 in. (maximum)
(3) If point of greatest wheel lateral runout is near
original chalk mark, remount tire 180 degrees.
Recheck runout,(Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS -
STANDARD PROCEDURE) .
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - TIRE AND WHEEL
BALANCE
It is recommended that a two plane service
dynamic balancer be used when a tire and wheel
assembly require balancing. Refer to balancer opera-
tion instructions for proper cone mounting proce-
dures. Typically use front cone mounting method for
steel wheels. For aluminum wheel use back cone
mounting method without cone spring.
NOTE: Static should be used only when a two plane
balancer is not available.
NOTE: Cast aluminum and forged aluminum wheels
require coated balance weights and special align-
ment equipment.
Wheel balancing can be accomplished with either
on or off vehicle equipment. When using on-vehiclebalancing equipment, remove the opposite wheel/tire.
Off-vehicle balancing is recommended.
For static balancing, find the location of the heavy
spot causing the imbalance. Counter balance wheel
directly opposite the heavy spot. Determine weight
Fig. 1 Checking Tire/Wheel/Hub Runout
1 - RADIAL RUNOUT
2 - LATERAL RUNOUT
Fig. 2 Radial Runout
1 - MOUNTING CONE
2 - SPINDLE SHAFT
3 - WING NUT
4 - PLASTIC CUP
5 - DIAL INDICATOR
6 - WHEEL
7 - DIAL INDICATOR
Fig. 3 Lateral Runout
1 - MOUNTING CONE
2 - SPINDLE SHAFT
3 - WING NUT
4 - PLASTIC CUP
5 - DIAL INDICATOR
6 - WHEEL
7 - DIAL INDICATOR
22 - 2 TIRES/WHEELSWJ
TIRES/WHEELS (Continued)

required to counter balance the area of imbalance.
Place half of this weight on theinnerrim flange and
the other half on theouterrim flange (Fig. 4).For dynamic balancing, the balancing equipment is
designed to locate the amount of weight to be applied
to both the inner and outer rim flange (Fig. 5).
Fig. 4 Static Unbalance & Balance
1 - HEAVY SPOT
2 - CENTER LINE OF SPINDLE
3 - ADD BALANCE WEIGHTS HERE4 - CORRECTIVE WEIGHT LOCATION
5 - TIRE OR WHEEL TRAMP, OR WHEEL HOP
Fig. 5 Dynamic Unbalance & Balance
1 - CENTER LINE OF SPINDLE
2 - ADD BALANCE WEIGHTS HERE3 - CORRECTIVE WEIGHT LOCATION
4 - HEAVY SPOT WHEEL SHIMMY AND VIBRATION
WJTIRES/WHEELS 22 - 3
TIRES/WHEELS (Continued)

STANDARD PROCEDURE - MATCH MOUNTING
Tires and wheels are currently not match mounted
at the factory. Match mounting is a technique used to
reduce runout in the wheel/tire assembly. This means
that the high spot of the tire is aligned with the low
spot on the wheel rim. The high spot on the tire is
marked with a paint mark or a bright colored adhe-
sive label on the outboard sidewall. The low spot on
the rim is identified with a label on the outside of the
rim and a dot on the inside of the rim. If the outside
label has been removed the tire will have to be
removed to locate the dot on the inside of the rim.
Before dismounting a tire from its wheel, a refer-
ence mark should be placed on the tire at the valve
stem location. This reference will ensure that it is
remounted in the original position on the wheel.
(1) Use a dial indicator to locate the high spot of
the tire on the center tread rib (Fig. 6). Record the
indicator reading and mark the high spot on the tire.
Place a mark on the tire at the valve stem location
(Fig. 7).
(2) Break down the tire and remount it 180
degrees on the rim (Fig. 8).
(3) Measure the total runout again and mark the
tire to indicate the high spot.
(4) If runout is still excessive use the following
procedures.
(a) If the high spot is within 101.6 mm (4.0 in.)
of the first spot and is still excessive, replace the
tire.
(b) If the high spot is within 101.6 mm (4.0 in.)
of the first spot on the wheel, the wheel may be out
of specifications,(Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
(c) If the high spot is NOT within 101.6 mm (4.0
in.) of either high spot, draw an arrow on the tread
from second high spot to first. Break down the tire
and remount it 90 degrees on rim in that direction
(Fig. 9). This procedure will normally reduce the
runout to an acceptable amount.
Fig. 6 Dial Indicator
Fig. 7 First Measurement On Tire
1 - REFERENCE MARK
2 - 1ST MEASUREMENT
HIGH SPOT MARK TIRE AND RIM
3 - WHEEL
4 - VALVE STEM
Fig. 8 Remount Tire 180 Degrees
1 - VALVE STEM
2 - REFERENCE MARK
22 - 4 TIRES/WHEELSWJ
TIRES/WHEELS (Continued)

TIRE PRESSURE MONITORING
DESCRIPTION
The EVIC will monitor the tire pressure signals
from the five tire sensors and determine if any tire
has gone below the low pressure threshold or raised
above the high pressure threshold. Refer to the table
below.
LOW TIRE PRESSURE THRESHOLDS
SYSTEM STATUS
INDICATORTIRE PRESSURE
ON 179 kPa (26 PSI)
OFF 214 kPa (31 PSI)
HIGH TIRE PRESSURE THRESHOLDS
SYSTEM STATUS
INDICATORTIRE PRESSURE
ON 310 kPa (45 PSI)
OFF 276 kPa (40 PSI)
The Remote Tire Pressure Monitors (RTPM) are
not internally serviceable. For a Sensor Failure or
Low Battery fault, the RTPM must be replaced.
OPERATION
If equipped with the Tire Pressure Monitoring Sys-
tem, each of the vehicle's five wheels will have a
valve stem with a pressure sensor and radio trans-
mitter built in. Signals from the tire pressure sensors
are received and interpreted by the Electronic Vehi-
cle Information Center (EVIC). A sensor in a
mounted wheel will broadcast its detected pressure
once per minute when the vehicle is moving faster
than 40 km/h (25 mph). The spare tire sensor will
broadcast once every hour. Each sensor's broadcast is
uniquely coded so that the EVIC can determine loca-
tion. The individual tire pressures can be displayed
graphically on the EVIC
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - TIRE PRESSURE
MONITORING SYSTEM
All Tire Pressure Monitoring System Faults are
specific to one location. If a9BATTERY LOW9or
9SENSOR FAILURE9fault is detected, the location
will be displayed. The appropriate sensor/transmitter
can then be replaced. If a single sensor/transmitter
cannot be detected by the EVIC, replace that sensor
transmitter. If none of the sensors/transmitters can
be detected, refer to symptoms in the EVIC section.
For additional system description and diagnosis,
refer to Tire Pressure Monitoring in the Body Diag-
nostic manual.
SENSOR
REMOVAL - TIRE PRESSURE SENSOR/
TRANSMITTER
(1) Remove the tire/wheel from the vehicle.
CAUTION: When removing the stick on balancing
weights from the wheel, do not use an abrasive
cleaner or a cleaner which will damage the protec-
tive finish on the wheel.
(2) Remove the balancing weights from the wheel.
NOTE: The cap used on this valve stem contains an
O-ring seal to prevent contamination and moisture
from entering the valve stem. Retain this valve stem
cap for re-use. Do not substitute a regular valve
stem cap in its place.
(3) Remove the cap from the valve stem.
NOTE: The valve stem used on this vehicle is made
of aluminum and the core is nickel plated brass.
The original valve stem core must be reinstalled
and not substituted for a valve stem core made of a
different material. This is required to prevent corro-
sion in the valve stem caused by the different met-
als.
(4) Using the appropriate tool, remove the core
from the valve stem (Fig. 20).
(5) Let the tire fully deflate.
Fig. 20 REMOVING VALVE STEM CORE - TYPICAL
1 - WHEEL
2 - VALVE STEM
3 - TIRE
4 - VALVE STEM CORE TOOL
22 - 12 TIRES/WHEELSWJ

BODY
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
BODY
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
WATER LEAKS........................1
WIND NOISE..........................2
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BODY
LUBRICATION.........................2
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DRILLING AND
WELDING............................3
SPECIFICATIONS
BODY LUBRICANTS....................3
SPECIFICATIONS - TORQUE.............4
SPECIAL TOOLS
BODY...............................4DECKLID/HATCH/LIFTGATE/TAILGATE........5
DOOR - FRONT.........................11
DOORS - REAR.........................19
EXTERIOR.............................25
HOOD.................................33
INSTRUMENT PANEL SYSTEM.............36
INTERIOR..............................69
PAINT.................................81
SEATS................................83
STATIONARY GLASS.....................93
SUNROOF.............................96
WEATHERSTRIP/SEALS..................105
BODY STRUCTURE.....................112
BODY
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
WATER LEAKS
Water leaks can be caused by poor sealing,
improper body component alignment, body seam
porosity, missing plugs, or blocked drain holes. Cen-
trifugal and gravitational force can cause water to
drip from a location away from the actual leak point,
making leak detection difficult. All body sealing
points should be water tight in normal wet-driving
conditions. Water flowing downward from the front of
the vehicle should not enter the passenger or luggage
compartment. Moving sealing surfaces will not
always seal water tight under all conditions. At
times, side glass or door seals will allow water to
enter the passenger compartment during high pres-
sure washing or hard driving rain (severe) condi-
tions. Overcompensating on door or glass
adjustments to stop a water leak that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After completing
a repair, water test vehicle to verify leak has stopped
before returning vehicle to use.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE WATER LEAK TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place, body
drains are clear, and body components are properly
aligned and sealed. If component alignment or seal-
ing is necessary, refer to the appropriate section of
this group for proper procedures.
WATER LEAK TESTS
WARNING: DO NOT USE ELECTRIC SHOP LIGHTS
OR TOOLS IN WATER TEST AREA. PERSONAL
INJURY CAN RESULT.
When the conditions causing a water leak have
been determined, simulate the conditions as closely
as possible.
²If a leak occurs with the vehicle parked in a
steady light rain, flood the leak area with an open-
ended garden hose.
²If a leak occurs while driving at highway speeds
in a steady rain, test the leak area with a reasonable
velocity stream or fan spray of water. Direct the
spray in a direction comparable to actual conditions.
²If a leak occurs when the vehicle is parked on an
incline, hoist the end or side of the vehicle to simu-
late this condition. This method can be used when
the leak occurs when the vehicle accelerates, stops or
turns. If the leak occurs on acceleration, hoist the
front of the vehicle. If the leak occurs when braking,
hoist the back of the vehicle. If the leak occurs on left
turns, hoist the left side of the vehicle. If the leak
occurs on right turns, hoist the right side of the vehi-
cle. For hoisting recommendations refer to Group 0,
Lubrication and Maintenance, General Information
section.
WATER LEAK DETECTION
To detect a water leak point-of-entry, do a water
test and watch for water tracks or droplets forming
on the inside of the vehicle. If necessary, remove inte-
rior trim covers or panels to gain visual access to the
WJBODY 23 - 1

leak area. If the hose cannot be positioned without
being held, have someone help do the water test.
Some water leaks must be tested for a considerable
length of time to become apparent. When a leak
appears, find the highest point of the water track or
drop. The highest point usually will show the point of
entry. After leak point has been found, repair the
leak and water test to verify that the leak has
stopped.
Locating the entry point of water that is leaking
into a cavity between panels can be difficult. The
trapped water may splash or run from the cavity,
often at a distance from the entry point. Most water
leaks of this type become apparent after accelerating,
stopping, turning, or when on an incline.
MIRROR INSPECTION METHOD
When a leak point area is visually obstructed, use
a suitable mirror to gain visual access. A mirror can
also be used to deflect light to a limited-access area
to assist in locating a leak point.
BRIGHT LIGHT LEAK TEST METHOD
Some water leaks in the luggage compartment can
be detected without water testing. Position the vehi-
cle in a brightly lit area. From inside the darkened
luggage compartment inspect around seals and body
seams. If necessary, have a helper direct a drop light
over the suspected leak areas around the luggage
compartment. If light is visible through a normally
sealed location, water could enter through the open-
ing.
PRESSURIZED LEAK TEST METHOD
When a water leak into the passenger compart-
ment cannot be detected by water testing, pressurize
the passenger compartment and soap test exterior of
the vehicle. To pressurize the passenger compart-
ment, close all doors and windows, start engine, and
set heater control to high blower in HEAT position. If
engine can not be started, connect a charger to the
battery to ensure adequate voltage to the blower.
With interior pressurized, apply dish detergent solu-
tion to suspected leak area on the exterior of the
vehicle. Apply detergent solution with spray device or
soft bristle brush. If soap bubbles occur at a body
seam, joint, seal or gasket, the leak entry point could
be at that location.
WIND NOISE
Wind noise is the result of most air leaks. Air leaks
can be caused by poor sealing, improper body compo-
nent alignment, body seam porosity, or missing plugs
in the engine compartment or door hinge pillar areas.
All body sealing points should be airtight in normal
driving conditions. Moving sealing surfaces will notalways seal airtight under all conditions. At times,
side glass or door seals will allow wind noise to be
noticed in the passenger compartment during high
cross winds. Over compensating on door or glass
adjustments to stop wind noise that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After a repair pro-
cedure has been performed, test vehicle to verify
noise has stopped before returning vehicle to use.
Wind noise can also be caused by improperly fitted
exterior moldings or body ornamentation. Loose
moldings can flutter, creating a buzzing or chattering
noise. An open cavity or protruding edge can create a
whistling or howling noise. Inspect the exterior of the
vehicle to verify that these conditions do not exist.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place and
body components are aligned and sealed. If compo-
nent alignment or sealing is necessary, refer to the
appropriate section of this group for proper proce-
dures.
ROAD TESTING WIND NOISE
(1) Drive the vehicle to verify the general location
of the wind noise.
(2) Apply 50 mm (2 in.) masking tape in 150 mm
(6 in.) lengths along weatherstrips, weld seams or
moldings. After each length is applied, drive the vehi-
cle. If noise goes away after a piece of tape is applied,
remove tape, locate, and repair defect.
POSSIBLE CAUSE OF WIND NOISE
²Moldings standing away from body surface can
catch wind and whistle.
²Gaps in sealed areas behind overhanging body
flanges can cause wind-rushing sounds.
²Misaligned movable components.
²Missing or improperly installed plugs in pillars.
²Weld burn through holes.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BODY LUBRICATION
All mechanisms and linkages should be lubricated
when necessary. This will maintain ease of operation
and provide protection against rust and excessive
wear. The weatherstrip seals should be lubricated to
prolong their life as well as to improve door sealing.
All applicable exterior and interior vehicle operat-
ing mechanisms should be inspected and cleaned.
Pivot/sliding contact areas on the mechanisms should
then be lubricated.
(1) When necessary, lubricate the operating mech-
anisms with the specified lubricants.
23 - 2 BODYWJ
BODY (Continued)

(4) Close flip up glass panel and verify proper
operation.
(5)
Install liftgate trim panel, refer to (Refer to 23 -
BODY/DECKLID/HATCH/LIFTGATE/TAILGATE/TRIM
PANEL - INSTALLATION).
FLIP-UP GLASS LATCH
STRIKER
REMOVAL
(1) Raise flip up glass panel.
(2) Mark the position of the handle/striker on the
glass panel.
(3) Remove the screws attaching the handle/striker
to the glass.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the handle/striker on the glass panel
and align the reference marks.
(2) Install the screws attaching the handle/striker
to the glass panel. Tighten the fasteners to 6 N´m (60
in. lbs.).
FLIP-UP GLASS SWITCH
REMOVAL
(1) Remove license plate lamp housing/trim panel
from liftgate, refer to (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/LICENSE PLATE
LAMP UNIT - REMOVAL).
(2) Squeeze the locking tabs inward to release the
switch from the housing.
(3) Disconnect the switch harness connector,
remove the switch from the housing.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install switch harness connector.(2) Position switch in housing, snap switch into
place.
(3) Install license plate lamp housing/trim panel
onto liftgate, refer to (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/LICENSE PLATE
LAMP UNIT - INSTALLATION).
HINGE
REMOVAL
NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the liftgate to
replace one or both hinges. The hinges can be
replaced one at a time.
(1) Open the liftgate. Support the liftgate for ease
of repair.
(2) Remove the liftgate header trim panel.
(3) Mark the hinge location with a grease pencil or
other suitable device.
(4) Remove the hinge screws (Fig. 5).
(5) Remove hinge.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the liftgate to
replace one or both hinges. The hinges can be
replaced one at a time.
(1) Position the hinge on the roof panel and on the
liftgate. (Use 3MŸ Fast and Firm or equivalent on
the hinge to body mating surfaces as a sealant.
(2) Install and tighten hinge screws at roof panel
to 28N´m (21 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install hinge screws at liftgate. Tighten screws
to 28N´m (21 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install liftgate header trim panel.
(5) Check the liftgate for proper alignment and
operation.
WJDECKLID/HATCH/LIFTGATE/TAILGATE 23 - 7
FLIP-UP GLASS LATCH (Continued)