Light JEEP LIBERTY 2002 KJ / 1.G Owner's Manual

SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However, thin brake drums or substandard
brake lines and hoses can also cause a spongy pedal.
The proper course of action is to bleed the system,
and replace thin drums and substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster or check valve could
also be faulty.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation, or out of round brake drums. Other causes are
loose wheel bearings or calipers and worn, damaged
tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake shoe release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface char-
ring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in
rotors and drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and
tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is
stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors and
drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires
and brake components will be extremely hot. In
severe cases, the lining may generate smoke as it
chars from overheating.
Common causes of brake drag are:
²Seized or improperly adjusted parking brake
cables.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper or wheel cylinder piston.
²Caliper binding on corroded bushings or rusted
slide surfaces.
²Loose caliper mounting.
²Drum brake shoes binding on worn/damaged
support plates.
²Mis-assembled components.²Long booster output rod.
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem
may be related to a blocked master cylinder return
port, or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake shoes
²Damaged rotor
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEKJ
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or wheel cylinders, worn seals, driv-
ing through deep water puddles, or lining that has
become covered with grease and grit during repair.
Contaminated lining should be replaced to avoid fur-
ther brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors and drums can become so scored that replace-
ment is necessary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causesof chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise. In addition, worn out,
improperly adjusted, or improperly assembled rear
brake shoes can also produce a thump noise.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PRESSURE
BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
Do not pump the brake pedal at any time while
bleeding. Air in the system will be compressed into
small bubbles that are distributed throughout the
hydraulic system. This will make additional bleeding
operations necessary.
Do not allow the master cylinder to run out of fluid
during bleed operations. An empty cylinder will allow
additional air to be drawn into the system. Check the
cylinder fluid level frequently and add fluid as
needed.
Bleed only one brake component at a time in the
following sequence:
²Master Cylinder
²Combination Valve
²Right Rear Wheel
²Left Rear Wheel
²Right Front Wheel
²Left Front Wheel
Follow the manufacturers instructions carefully
when using pressure equipment. Do not exceed the
tank manufacturers pressure recommendations. Gen-
erally, a tank pressure of 15-20 psi is sufficient for
bleeding.
Fill the bleeder tank with recommended fluid and
purge air from the tank lines before bleeding.
Do not pressure bleed without a proper master cyl-
inder adapter. The wrong adapter can lead to leak-
age, or drawing air back into the system. Use
adapter provided with the equipment or Adapter
6921.
KJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 5
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

Examine the lining contact pattern to determine if
the shoes are bent or the drum is tapered. The lining
should exhibit contact across its entire width. Shoes
exhibiting contact only on one side should be
replaced and the drum checked for runout or taper.
Inspect the adjuster screw assembly. Replace the
assembly if the star wheel or threads are damaged,
or the components are severely rusted or corroded.
Discard the brake springs and retainer components
if worn, distorted or collapsed. Also replace the
springs if a brake drag condition had occurred. Over-
heating will distort and weaken the springs.
Inspect the brake shoe contact pads on the support
plate, replace the support plate if any of the pads are
worn or rusted through. Also replace the plate if it is
bent or distorted.
(1) Clean support plate with brake cleaner.
(2) If new drums are being installed, remove pro-
tective coating with carburetor cleaner followed by
final rinse with brake cleaner.
(3) Clean and lubricate anchor pin with light coat
of Mopar multi-mileage grease.
(4) Apply Mopar multi-mileage grease to brake
shoe contact surfaces of support plate (Fig. 10).
(5) Lubricate the adjuster screw threads and pivot
with spray lube.
(6) Attach parking brake lever to secondary brake
shoe. Use new washer and U-clip to secure lever.
(7) Attach the parking brake cable to lever (if
removed).
(8) Install the brake shoes on support plate.
Secure shoes with new hold-down springs, pins and
retainers.
(9) Install the parking brake strut and spring.(10) Install the guide plate and adjuster cable on
anchor pin.
(11) Install the adjuster cable guide on the shoe.
(12) Install the primary and secondary return
springs.
(13) Lubricate and assemble adjuster screw.
(14) Install the adjuster screw, spring and lever
and connect to adjuster cable.
(15) Adjust the shoes to the drum (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/BRAKE
PADS/SHOES - ADJUSTMENTS).
(16) Install the brake drum.
(17) Install the wheel/tire assemblies and lower
vehicle (Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(18) Verify firm brake pedal before moving vehicle.
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT - REAR DRUM BRAKE
The rear drum brakes are equipped with a self-ad-
justing mechanism. Under normal circumstances, the
only time adjustment is required is when the shoes
are replaced, removed for access to other parts, or
when one or both drums are replaced.
Adjustment can be made with a standard brake
gauge or with adjusting tool. Adjustment is per-
formed with the complete brake assembly installed
on the backing plate.
ADJUSTMENT WITH BRAKE GAUGE
(1) Be sure parking brakes are fully released.
(2) Raise rear of vehicle and remove wheels and
brake drums.
(3) Verify that left and right automatic adjuster
levers and cables are properly connected.
(4) Insert brake gauge in drum. Expand gauge
until gauge inner legs contact drum braking surface.
Then lock gauge in position (Fig. 11).
(5) Reverse gauge and install it on brake shoes.
Position gauge legs at shoe centers as shown (Fig.
12). If gauge does not fit (too loose/too tight), adjust
shoes.
(6) Pull shoe adjuster lever away from adjuster
screw star wheel.
(7) Turn adjuster screw star wheel (by hand) to
expand or retract brake shoes. Continue adjustment
until gauge outside legs are light drag-fit or 30 thou-
sands of an inch clearence on the shoes.
(8) Install brake drums and wheels and lower
vehicle.
(9) Drive vehicle and make one forward stop fol-
lowed by one reverse stop. Repeat procedure 8-10
times to operate automatic adjusters and equalize
adjustment.
Fig. 10 Shoe Contact Surfaces
1 - ANCHOR PIN
2 - SUPPORT PLATE
3 - SHOE CONTACT SURFACES
5 - 12 BRAKES - BASEKJ
BRAKE PADS / SHOES (Continued)

NOTE: Bring vehicle to complete standstill at each
stop. Incomplete, rolling stops will not activate
automatic adjusters.
ADJUSTMENT WITH ADJUSTING TOOL
(1) Be sure parking brake lever is fully released.
(2) Raise vehicle so rear wheels can be rotated
freely.
(3) Remove plug from each access hole in brake
support plates.
(4) Loosen parking brake cable adjustment nut
until there is slack in front cable.
(5) Insert adjusting tool through support plate
access hole and engage tool in teeth of adjusting
screw star wheel (Fig. 13).(6) Rotate adjuster screw star wheel (move tool
handle upward) until slight drag can be felt when
wheel is rotated.
(7) Push and hold adjuster lever away from star
wheel with thin screwdriver.
(8) Back off adjuster screw star wheel until brake
drag is eliminated.
(9) Repeat adjustment at opposite wheel. Be sure
adjustment is equal at both wheels.
(10) Install support plate access hole plugs.
(11) Adjust parking brake cable and lower vehicle.
(12) Drive vehicle and make one forward stop fol-
lowed by one reverse stop. Repeat procedure 8-10
times to operate automatic adjusters and equalize
adjustment.
NOTE: Bring vehicle to complete standstill at each
stop. Incomplete, rolling stops will not activate
automatic adjusters.DISC BRAKE CALIPERS
DESCRIPTION
The calipers are a single piston type. The calipers
are free to slide laterally, this allows continuous com-
pensation for lining wear.
Fig. 11 ADJUSTING GAUGE ON DRUM
1 - BRAKE GAUGE
2 - BRAKE DRUM
Fig. 12 ADJUSTING GAUGE ON BRAKE SHOES
1 - BRAKE GAUGE
2 - BRAKE SHOES
Fig. 13 Brake Adjustment
1 - STAR WHEEL
2 - LEVER
3 - BRAKE SHOE WEB
4 - SCREWDRIVER
5 - ADJUSTING TOOL
6 - ADJUSTER SPRING
KJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 13
BRAKE PADS / SHOES (Continued)

OPERATION
When the brakes are applied fluid pressure is
exerted against the caliper piston. The fluid pressure
is exerted equally and in all directions. This means
pressure exerted against the caliper piston and
within the caliper bore will be equal (Fig. 14).
Fluid pressure applied to the piston is transmitted
directly to the inboard brake shoe. This forces the
shoe lining against the inner surface of the disc
brake rotor. At the same time, fluid pressure within
the piston bore forces the caliper to slide inward on
the mounting bolts. This action brings the outboard
brake shoe lining into contact with the outer surface
of the disc brake rotor.
In summary, fluid pressure acting simultaneously
on both piston and caliper, produces a strong clamp-
ing action. When sufficient force is applied, friction
will attempt to stop the rotors from turning and
bring the vehicle to a stop.
Application and release of the brake pedal gener-
ates only a very slight movement of the caliper and
piston. Upon release of the pedal, the caliper and pis-
ton return to a rest position. The brake shoes do not
retract an appreciable distance from the rotor. In
fact, clearance is usually at, or close to zero. The rea-
sons for this are to keep road debris from gettingbetween the rotor and lining and in wiping the rotor
surface clear each revolution.
The caliper piston seal controls the amount of pis-
ton extension needed to compensate for normal lining
wear.
During brake application, the seal is deflected out-
ward by fluid pressure and piston movement (Fig.
15). When the brakes (and fluid pressure) are
released, the seal relaxes and retracts the piston.
The amount of piston retraction is determined by
the amount of seal deflection. Generally the amount
is just enough to maintain contact between the pis-
ton and inboard brake shoe.
REMOVAL
(1) Install prop rod on the brake pedal to keep
pressure on the brake system.
(2) Raise and support vehicle.
(3) Remove front wheel and tire assembly.
(4) Drain small amount of fluid from master cylin-
der brake reservoir with suction gun.
(5) Remove the brake hose banjo bolt if replacing
caliper (Fig. 16).
(6) Remove the caliper mounting slide pin bolts
(Fig. 16).
(7) Remove the caliper from vehicle.
DISASSEMBLY
(1) Remove brake shoes from caliper.
(2) Drain brake fluid out of caliper.
(3) Take a piece of wood and pad it with one-inch
thickness of shop towels. Place this piece in the out-
board shoe side of the caliper in front of the piston.
This will cushion and protect caliper piston during
removal (Fig. 17).
Fig. 14 Brake Caliper Operation
1 - CALIPER
2 - PISTON
3 - PISTON BORE
4 - SEAL
5 - INBOARD SHOE
6 - OUTBOARD SHOE
Fig. 15 Lining Wear Compensation By Piston Seal
1 - PISTON
2 - CYLINDER BORE
3 - PISTON SEAL BRAKE PRESSURE OFF
4 - CALIPER HOUSING
5 - DUST BOOT
6 - PISTON SEAL BRAKE PRESSURE ON
5 - 14 BRAKES - BASEKJ
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS (Continued)

CLEANING
Clean the caliper components with clean brake
fluid or brake clean only. Wipe the caliper and piston
dry with lint free towels or use low pressure com-
pressed air.
CAUTION: Do not use gasoline, kerosene, thinner,
or similar solvents. These products may leave a
residue that could damage the piston and seal.
INSPECTION
The piston is made from a phenolic resin (plastic
material) and should be smooth and clean.
The piston must be replaced if cracked or scored.
Do not attempt to restore a scored piston surface by
sanding or polishing.
CAUTION: If the caliper piston is replaced, install
the same type of piston in the caliper. Never inter-
change phenolic resin and steel caliper pistons.The pistons, seals, seal grooves, caliper bore and
piston tolerances are different.
The bore can belightlypolished with a brake
hone to remove very minor surface imperfections
(Fig. 22). The caliper should be replaced if the bore is
severely corroded, rusted, scored, or if polishing
would increase bore diameter more than 0.025 mm
(0.001 inch).
ASSEMBLY
CAUTION: Dirt, oil, and solvents can damage cali-
per seals. Insure assembly area is clean and dry.
(1) Lubricate caliper piston bore, new piston seal
and piston with clean brake fluid.
(2) Lubricate caliper bushings and interior of
bushing boots with silicone grease.
(3) Install bushing boots in caliper, then insert
bushing into boot and push bushing into place (Fig.
23).
(4) Install new piston seal into seal groove with
finger (Fig. 24).
(5) Install new dust boot on caliper piston and seat
boot in piston groove (Fig. 25).
(6) Press piston into caliper bore by hand, use a
turn and push motion to work piston into seal (Fig.
26).
(7) Press caliper piston to bottom of bore.
(8) Seat dust boot in caliper with Installer Tool
C-4842 and Tool Handle C-4171 (Fig. 27).
(9) Replace caliper bleed screw if removed.
Fig. 20 PISTON SEAL REMOVAL - TYPICAL
1 - REMOVE SEAL WITH WOOD PENCIL OR SIMILAR TOOL
2 - PISTON SEAL
Fig. 21 MOUNTING BOLT BUSHING AND BOOT -
TYPICAL
1 - CALIPER SLIDE BUSHING
2 - BOOT
Fig. 22 POLISHING PISTON BORE - TYPICAL
1 - SPECIAL HONE
2 - CALIPER
3 - PISTON BORE
5 - 16 BRAKES - BASEKJ
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS (Continued)

(4) Install the brake hose to the caliper withnew
seal washersand tighten fitting bolt to 31 N´m (23
ft. lbs.).
CAUTION: Verify brake hose is not twisted or
kinked before tightening fitting bolt.
(5) Remove the prop rod from the vehicle.
(6) Bleed the base brake system,(Refer to 5 -
BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE) OR (Refer to
5 - BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(7) Install the wheel and tire assemblies (Refer to
22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE).
(8) Remove the supports and lower the vehicle.
(9) Verify a firm pedal before moving the vehicle.
DISC BRAKE CALIPER
ADAPTER
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the front wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Drain a small amount of fluid from master cyl-
inder brake reservoir with acleansuction gun.
(4) Bottom the caliper pistons into the caliper by
prying the caliper over.
(5) Remove the caliper mounting bolts (Fig. 16).
(6) Remove the disc brake caliper from the mount.
CAUTION: Never allow the disc brake caliper to
hang from the brake hose. Damage to the brake
hose will result. Provide a suitable support to hang
the caliper securely.
(7) Remove the inboard and outboard brake pads.
(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/
BRAKE PADS/SHOES - REMOVAL).
(8) Remove the caliper adapter mounting bolts
(Fig. 16).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the caliper adapter mounting bolts.
Tighten the mounting bolts to 135 N´m (100 ft.lbs).
(2) Install the inboard and outboard pads. (Refer
to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/
BRAKE PADS/SHOES - INSTALLATION).
(3) Install the caliper mounting bolts.
(4) Install the tire and wheel assembly. (Refer to
22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE).
ROTORS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - DISC BRAKE
ROTOR
The rotor braking surfaces should not be refinished
unless necessary.
Light surface rust and scale can be removed with a
lathe equipped with dual sanding discs. The rotor
surfaces can be restored by machining in a disc brake
lathe if surface scoring and wear are light.
Replace the rotor under the following conditions:
²severely scored
²tapered
²hard spots
²cracked
²below minimum thickness
ROTOR MINIMUM THICKNESS
Measure rotor thickness at the center of the brake
shoe contact surface. Replace the rotor if worn below
minimum thickness, or if machining would reduce
thickness below the allowable minimum.
Rotor minimum thickness is usually specified on
the rotor hub. The specification is either stamped or
cast into the hub surface.
ROTOR RUNOUT
Check rotor lateral runout with dial indicator
C-3339 (Fig. 28). Excessive lateral runout will cause
brake pedal pulsation and rapid, uneven wear of the
brake shoes. Position the dial indicator plunger
approximately 25.4 mm (1 in.) inward from the rotor
edge. The dial indicator should be positioned in the
center of the rotor surface. Maximum allowable rotor
runout is 0.102 mm (0.004 in.).
ROTOR THICKNESS VARIATION
Variations in rotor thickness will cause pedal pul-
sation, noise and shudder.
Measure rotor thickness at 6 to 12 points around
the rotor face (Fig. 29).
Position the micrometer approximately 25.4 mm (1
in.) from the rotor outer circumference for each mea-
surement.
Thickness should notvaryby more than 0.013 mm
(0.0005 in.) from point-to-point on the rotor. Machine
or replace the rotor if necessary.
5 - 18 BRAKES - BASEKJ
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS (Continued)

JUNCTION BLOCK
DESCRIPTION
The junction block and a rear brake proportioning
valve. The valve is not repairable and must be
replaced as an assembly if diagnosis indicates this is
necessary.
OPERATION
PROPORTIONING VALVE
The proportioning valve is used to balance front-
rear brake action at high decelerations. The valve
allows normal fluid flow during moderate braking.
The valve only controls fluid flow during high decel-
erations brake stops. If the primary brake hydraulic
circuit cannot build pressure a by-pass feature is
activated allowing full flow and pressure to the rear
brakes.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - PROPORTIONING
VALVE
The valve controls fluid flow. If fluid enters the
valve and does not exit the valve the combination
valve must be replaced.
REMOVAL
(1) Install prop rod on the brake pedal to keep
pressure on the brake system.
(2) Remove the brake lines from the junction
block.
(3) Remove mounting nuts and bolt and remove
the junction block (Fig. 31).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the junction block on the mounting
studs.
(2) Install mounting nuts and bolt. Tighten to 14
N´m (125 in. lbs.).
(3) Install brake lines to the junction block and
tighten to 20 N´m (180 in. lbs.).
(4) Bleed ABS brake system (Refer to 5 - BRAKES
- STANDARD PROCEDURE).
PEDAL
DESCRIPTION
A suspended-type brake pedal is used, the pedal
pivots on a shaft mounted in the steering coloumn
support bracket. The bracket is attached to the dash
panel. The unit is serviced as an assembly, except for
the pedal pad.
OPERATION
The brake pedal is attached to the booster push
rod. When the pedal is depressed, the primary
booster push rod is depressed which move the booster
secondary rod. The booster secondary rod depress the
master cylinder piston.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the knee blocker under the steering
column,(Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/
KNEE BLOCKER - REMOVAL).
(2) Remove the retainer clip securing the booster
push rod to pedal (Fig. 32).
(3) Remove the brake lamp switch,(Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/
BRAKE LAMP SWITCH - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the nuts securing the pedal to the col-
umn bracket.
(5) Remove the pedal from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the pedal into the vehicle.
(2) Install the nuts securing the pedal to the col-
umn bracket.
(3) Tighten the nuts to 22.6 N´m (200 in. lbs.).
(4) Lubricate the brake pedal pin and bushings
with Mopar multi-mileage grease.
(5) Install the booster push rod on the pedal pin
and install a new retainer clip (Fig. 32).
(6) Install the brake lamp switch,(Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/
BRAKE LAMP SWITCH - INSTALLATION).
(7) Install the knee blocker,(Refer to 23 - BODY/
INSTRUMENT PANEL/KNEE BLOCKER - INSTAL-
LATION).
Fig. 31 JUNCTION BLOCK
1 - JUNCTION BLOCK
2 - MOUNTING NUT
5 - 20 BRAKES - BASEKJ

POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
DESCRIPTION
The booster assembly consists of a housing divided
into separate chambers by two internal diaphragms.
The outer edge of each diaphragm is attached to the
booster housing. The diaphragms are connected to
the booster primary push rod.
Two push rods are used in the booster. The pri-
mary push rod connects the booster to the brake
pedal. The secondary push rod connects the booster
to the master cylinder to stroke the cylinder pistons.
OPERATION
The atmospheric inlet valve is opened and closed
by the primary push rod. Booster vacuum supply is
through a hose attached to an intake manifold fitting
at one end and to the booster check valve at the
other. The vacuum check valve in the booster housing
is a one-way device that prevents vacuum leak back.
Power assist is generated by utilizing the pressure
differential between normal atmospheric pressure
and a vacuum. The vacuum needed for booster oper-
ation is taken directly from the engine intake mani-
fold. The entry point for atmospheric pressure is
through a filter and inlet valve at the rear of the
housing (Fig. 33).
The chamber areas forward of the booster dia-
phragms are exposed to vacuum from the intake
manifold. The chamber areas to the rear of the dia-
phragms, are exposed to normal atmospheric pres-
sure of 101.3 kilopascals (14.7 pounds/square in.).Brake pedal application causes the primary push
rod to open the atmospheric inlet valve. This exposes
the area behind the diaphragms to atmospheric pres-
sure. The resulting pressure differential provides the
extra apply force for power assist.
The booster check valve, check valve grommet and
booster seals are serviceable.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - MASTER
CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER
(1) Start engine and check booster vacuum hose
connections. A hissing noise indicates vacuum leak.
Correct any vacuum leak before proceeding.
(2) Stop engine and shift transmission into Neu-
tral.
(3) Pump brake pedal until all vacuum reserve in
booster is depleted.
(4) Press and hold brake pedal under light foot
pressure. The pedal should hold firm, if the pedal
falls away master cylinder is faulty (internal leak-
age).
(5) Start engine and note pedal action. It should
fall away slightly under light foot pressure then hold
firm. If no pedal action is discernible, power booster,
vacuum supply, or vacuum check valve is faulty. Pro-
ceed to the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST.
(6) If the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
passes, rebuild booster vacuum reserve as follows:
Release brake pedal. Increase engine speed to 1500
rpm, close the throttle and immediately turn off igni-
tion to stop engine.
(7) Wait a minimum of 90 seconds and try brake
action again. Booster should provide two or more vac-
uum assisted pedal applications. If vacuum assist is
not provided, booster is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
(1) Connect vacuum gauge to booster check valve
with short length of hose and T-fitting (Fig. 34).
(2) Start and run engine at curb idle speed for one
minute.
(3) Observe the vacuum supply. If vacuum supply
is not adequate, repair vacuum supply.
(4) Clamp hose shut between vacuum source and
check valve.
(5) Stop engine and observe vacuum gauge.
(6) If vacuum drops more than one inch Hg (33
millibars) within 15 seconds, booster diaphragm or
check valve is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER CHECK VALVE TEST
(1) Disconnect vacuum hose from check valve.
(2) Remove check valve and valve seal from
booster.
(3) Use a hand operated vacuum pump for test.
Fig. 32 BOOSTER PUSH ROD
1 - MASTER CYLINDER ASSEMBLY
2 - BRAKE BOOSTER
3 - CLIP
4 - BRAKE PEDAL
5 - BOOSTER ROD
KJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 21
PEDAL (Continued)

(4) Tighten booster mounting nuts to 22.6 N´m
(200 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install the knee blocker,(Refer to 23 - BODY/
INSTRUMENT PANEL/KNEE BLOCKER - INSTAL-
LATION).
(6) If original master cylinder is being installed,
check condition of seal at rear of master cylinder.
Replace seal if cut, or torn.
(7) Clean cylinder mounting surface of brake
booster. Use shop towel wetted with brake cleaner for
this purpose. Dirt, grease, or similar materials will
prevent proper cylinder seating and could result in
vacuum leak.
(8) Align and install master cylinder on the
booster studs. Install mounting nuts and tighten to
22.6 N´m (200 in. lbs.).
(9) Connect vacuum hose to booster check valve.
(10) Remount the HCU. Tighten bracket mounting
nuts to 22.6 N´m (200 in. lbs.).
(11) Connect and secure the brake lines to HCU or
junction block and master cylinder. Start all brake
line fittings by hand to avoid cross threading.
(12) Connect the wire to fluid level switch at the
bottom of the reservoir.
(13) Fill and bleed base brake system,(Refer to 5 -
BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(14) Verify proper brake operation before moving
vehicle.
MASTER CYLINDER
DESCRIPTION
The master cylinder has a removable nylon reser-
voir. The cylinder body is made of aluminum and
contains a primary and secondary piston assembly.
The cylinder body including the piston assemblies
are not serviceable. If diagnosis indicates an internal
problem with the cylinder body, it must be replaced
as an assembly. The reservoir and grommets are the
only replaceable parts on the master cylinder.
OPERATION
The master cylinder bore contains a primary and
secondary piston. The primary piston supplies
hydraulic pressure to the front brakes. The secondary
piston supplies hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes.
The master cylinder reservoir stores reserve brake
fluid for the hydraulic brake circuits.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - MASTER
CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER
(1) Start engine and check booster vacuum hose
connections. A hissing noise indicates vacuum leak.
Correct any vacuum leak before proceeding.(2) Stop engine and shift transmission into Neu-
tral.
(3) Pump brake pedal until all vacuum reserve in
booster is depleted.
(4) Press and hold brake pedal under light foot
pressure. The pedal should hold firm, if the pedal
falls away master cylinder is faulty (internal leak-
age).
(5) Start engine and note pedal action. It should
fall away slightly under light foot pressure then hold
firm. If no pedal action is discernible, power booster,
vacuum supply, or vacuum check valve is faulty. Pro-
ceed to the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST.
(6) If the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
passes, rebuild booster vacuum reserve as follows:
Release brake pedal. Increase engine speed to 1500
rpm, close the throttle and immediately turn off igni-
tion to stop engine.
(7) Wait a minimum of 90 seconds and try brake
action again. Booster should provide two or more vac-
uum assisted pedal applications. If vacuum assist is
not provided, booster is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
(1) Connect vacuum gauge to booster check valve
with short length of hose and T-fitting (Fig. 38).
(2) Start and run engine at curb idle speed for one
minute.
(3) Observe the vacuum supply. If vacuum supply
is not adequate, repair vacuum supply.
(4) Clamp hose shut between vacuum source and
check valve.
(5) Stop engine and observe vacuum gauge.
(6) If vacuum drops more than one inch HG (33
millibars) within 15 seconds, booster diaphragm or
check valve is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER CHECK VALVE TEST
(1) Disconnect vacuum hose from check valve.
(2) Remove check valve and valve seal from
booster.
(3) Use a hand operated vacuum pump for test.
(4) Apply 15-20 inches vacuum at large end of
check valve (Fig. 39).
(5) Vacuum should hold steady. If gauge on pump
indicates vacuum loss, check valve is faulty and
should be replaced.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MASTER CYLINDER
BLEEDING
A new master cylinder should be bled before instal-
lation on the vehicle. Required bleeding tools include
bleed tubes and a wood dowel to stroke the pistons.
Bleed tubes can be fabricated from brake line.
(1) Mount master cylinder in vise.
5 - 24 BRAKES - BASEKJ
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)