park assist MITSUBISHI DIAMANTE 1900 Repair Manual

3-26 ENGINEANDENGINEOVERHAUL
18. Remove the self-locking nuts and the small
retaining bolt holding the exhaust pipe to the bottom
of the exhaust manifold. Separate the pipe from the
manifold and remove the gasket.
19. Remove the bolts holding the support brace
to the bottom of the intake manifold.
20. Use the special hex wrench (MB 998051-01)
and loosen the head bolts in the order shown in 2 or
3 passes. When all are finger loose, remove the bolts.
21. Rock the head gently to break it loose; if tap-
ping is necessary, do so with a rubber or wooden
mallet at the corners of the head. DO NOT pry the
head up by wedging tools between the head and the
block.
22. Lift the head free of the engine. It is coming
off with both manifolds and the intake plenum at-
tached; the help of an assistant is recommended for
lifting. Support the head assembly on wooden blocks
on a suitable workbench. Refer to Cleaning and In-
spection in this section for work to be done before in-
stalling the head. If the head has been removed for
work other than gasket replacement, the rocker as-
sembly and camshaft or other components may be
removed.
Before reinstallation, the head should be com-
pletely assembled on the bench. This allows proper
location and tightening of all the external items.
To install: 23. Place a new gasket on the engine so that the
identifying mark faces up (towards the head) and is at
the timing belt end of the block. Install a new gasket
on the exhaust pipe.
Do not apply sealant to the head gasket or
mating surfaces.
24. Install the head straight down onto the block.
Try to eliminate most of the side-to-side adjust-
ments as this may move the gasket out of position.
Install the bolts by hand and just start each bolt 1 or
2 turns on the threads.
25. The head bolt torque specification is 68 ft.
Ibs. (92 Nm) for a cold engine. The bolts must be
tightened in the order shown in 3 steps. On the first
pass, tighten all the bolts to about 22 ft. Ibs. (30 Nm),
then proceed through the order tightening each bolt
to about 45 ft. Ibs. (61 Nm). The final torque is
achieved on the third pass.
26. Install the intake manifold support brace to
the manifold and tighten the bolts to 16 ft. Ibs. (22
Nm). 27. Making sure the gasket is still in place, con-
nect the exhaust pipe to the base of the exhaust man-
ifold. Use new self-locking nuts; tighten the nuts and
the small bracket bolt to 26 ft. Ibs. (35 Nm).
28. Make sure the camshaft has not changed po-
sition during repalrs. Carefully install the camshaft
sprocket and belt onto the camshaft. Tighten the re-
taining bolt to 66 ft. Ibs. (91 Nm).
29. Install the upper timing belt cover, then
tighten the bolts to 8 ft. Ibs. (11 Nm).
30. Apply sealant to the contact surfaces of the
half-circle plug and install the plug in the head In-
stall the valve cover and gasket.
31. Install the engine mount bracket to the en-
gine. Tighten the mounting nuts and bolts to 42 ft.
Ibs. (57 Nm).
32. Adjust the jack (if necessary) so that the en-
gine mount bushing aligns with the bodywork
bracket. Install the through-bolt and tighten the nuts
snug.
33. Slowly release tension on the floor jack so
that the weight of the engine bears fully on the
mount. Tighten the through-bolt to 52 ft. Ibs. (71
Nm) and the small safety nut to 26 ft. tbs. (36 Nm).
34. Install the bracket holding the power steering
hose and air conditioning hose to the top of the en-
gine mount.
35. Position the control wiring harness and in-
stall the retaining bolts. Attach each electrical con-
nector to its proper location, making sure the wires
are properly routed and firmly connected.
36. Install the spark plug wires in the distributor
cap.
37. Connect the PCV hose and the vacuum
hose(s).
38. Connect the fuel return line. Connect the
brake booster vacuum hose.
39. Install the heater hose, the coolant by-pass
hose and.the upper radiator hose. Pay close attention
to the position and routing of these hoses and insure
that they are not crimped or constricted. Install the
clamps in the same location as before removal.
40. Install a new O-ring on the high pressure fuel
line and lubricate it with a coating of gasoline. Care-
fully connect the high pressure fuel line to the fuel
rail, taking care not to damage the O-ring. Tighten the
bolts only to 4 ft. Ibs. (6 Nm).
41. Connect the accelerator cable and adjust it as
necessary.
42. Install the air intake hose.
43. Fill the cooling system with coolant.
44. Changing the oil and filter is recommended
to eliminate pollutants in the oil.
Intake side
I Front of
engine
Exhaust side
Fig. 116 Cylinder head bolt removal se-
quence-l .6L and 2.OL DDHC engines intake
side
Front of
entine
Exhaust side 7923PG18
Fig. 117 Cylinder head bolt torque se-
quence-l .6L and 2.OL DDHC engines Operating the engine without the proper
amount and type of engine oil will result in
severe engine damage.
45. Connect the negative battery cable.
46. Start the engine and check for leaks of fuel,
vacuum or oil.
47. Check the operation of all engine electrical
systems as well as dashboard gauges and lights.
48. Perform necessary adjustments to the accel-
erator cable, drive belts and engine specifications.
Adjust the coolant level after the engine has cooled
Off.
1.6L and 2.OL DDHC Engines
ti See Figures 116,117, and 116
1. Relieve fuel system pressure.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Drain the cooling system.
Never open, service or drain the radiator or
cooling system when hot; serious burns can
occur from the steam and hot coolant. Also,
when draining engine coolant, keep in mind
that cats and dogs are attracted to ethylene
glycol antifreeze and could drink any that is
left in an uncovered container or in puddles
on the ground. This will prove fatal in suffi-
cient quantities. Always drain coolant into a
sealable container. Coolant should be reused
unless it is contaminated or is several years
old.
4. Disconnect the accelerator cable. There will
be 2 cables if equipped with cruise-control.
5. Remove the air cleaner with the air intake
hose.
6. Detach the electrical connectors from the the
oxygen sensor, engine coolant temperature sensor,
the engine coolant temperature gauge unit and the
engine coolant temperature switch on vehicles with
air conditioning.
7. Disconnect the wiring from the ISC motor,
throttle position sensor, crankshaft angle sensor, fuel
injectors, ignition coil, power transistor, noise filter,
knock sensor on turbocharged engines, EGR temper-
ature sensor (California vehicles), ground cable and
engine control wiring harness.
Painted mark Painted mark
Fig. 116 To ensure that the bolts are tight-
ened exactly 160 total degrees, mark the
11.6L and 2.OL DDHC engines head bolt and cylinder head as shown-

ENGINEANDENGINEOVERHAUL 3-57
Anything that generates heat and/or friction WIII
eventually burn or wear out (for example, a light bulb
generates heat, therefore its life span is limited). With
this in mind, a running engine generates tremendous
amounts of both; friction is encountered by the mov-
ing and rotating parts inside the engine and heat is
created by friction and combustion of the fuel How-
ever, the engine has systems designed to help reduce
the effects of heat and friction and provide added
longevrty. The oiling system reduces the amount of
friction encountered by the moving parts inside the
engine, while the cooling system reduces heat cre-
ated by friction and combustion If either system is
not maintained, a break-down will be inevitable.
Therefore, you can see how regular maintenance can
affect the service life of your vehicle, If you do not
drain, flush and refill your cooling system at the
proper intervals, deposits WIII begin to accumulate in
the radiator, thereby reducing the amount of heat it
can extract from the coolant The same applies to
your oil and filter; If it is not changed often enough it
becomes laden with contaminates and is unable to
properly lubricate the engine. This increases friction
and wear.
There are a number of methods for evaluating the
condition of your engine. A compression test can re-
veal the condition of your pistons, piston rings,
cylinder bores, head gasket(s), valves and valve
seats. An oil pressure test can warn you of possible
engine bearing, or oil pump failures. Excessrve oil
consumption, evidence of oil in the engine air intake
area and/or bluish smoke from the tailpipe may indi-
cate worn piston rings, worn valve guides and/or
valve seals. As a general rule, an engine that uses no
more than one quart of oil every 1000 miles is in
good condition. Engines that use one quart of oil or
more in less than 1000 miles should first be checked
for oil leaks. If any oil leaks are present, have them
fixed before determining how much oil is consumed
by the engine, especrally if blue smoke is not visible
at the tailpipe
COMPRESSION TEST
# See Figure 226
tccs3801 Fig. 226 A screw-in type compression gauge
is more accurate and easier to use without
an assistant
A noticeable lack of engine power, excessive oil
consumption and/or poor fuel mileage measured
over an extended period are all indicators of internal
engine wear. Worn piston rings, scored or worn
cylinder bores, blown head gaskets, sticking or burnt
valves, and worn valve seats are all possible culprits.
A check of each cylinders compression WIII help lo-
cate the problem.
*A screw-in type compression gauge is
more accurate than the type you simply hold
against the spark plug hole. Although it takes
slightly longer to use, it’s worth the effort to
obtain a more accurate reading.
1 Make sure that the proper amount and vis-
cosity of engine oil is in the crankcase, then ensure
the battery is fully charged.
2. Warm-up the engine to normal operating
temperature, then shut the engine
OFF. 3. Disable the ignition system.
4. Label and disconnect all of the spark plug
wires from the plugs,
5. Thoroughly clean the cylinder head area
around the spark plug ports, then remove the spark
plugs.
6. Set the throttle plate to the fully open (wide-
open throttle) position You can block the accelerator
linkage open for this, or you can have an assistant
fully depress the accelerator pedal.
7. Install a screw-in type compression gauge
into the No. 1 spark plug hole until the fitting is snug.
Be careful not to crossthread the spark plug
hole.
8. According to the tool manufacturers instruc-
tions, connect a remote starting switch to the starting
circuit.
9. With the ignition switch in the
OFF position,
use the remote starting switch to crank the engine
through at least five compression strokes (approxi-
mately 5 seconds of cranking) and record the highest
reading on the gauge
10. Repeat the test on each cylinder, cranking the
engine approximately the same number of compres-
sion strokes and/or time as the first.
11. Compare the hrghest readings from each
cylinder to that of the others. The indicated compres-
sion pressures are considered within specifications if
the lowest reading cylinder is within 75 percent of the
pressure recorded for the highest reading cylinder
For example, if your highest reading cylinder pres-
sure was 150 psi (1034 kPa), then 75 percent of that
would be 113 psi (779 kPa). So the lowest reading
cylinder should be no less than 113 psi (779 kPa).
12. If a cylinder exhibits an unusually low com-
pression reading, pour a tablespoon of clean engine
oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and
repeat the compression test. If the compression rises
after adding oil, it means that the cylinder’s piston
rings and/or cylinder bore are damaged or worn, If
the pressure remains low, the valves may not be seat-
ing properly (a valve job is needed), or the head gas-
ket may be blown near that cylinder. If compression in any two adjacent cylinders is low, and if the addi-
tion of oil doesn’t help raise compression, there is
leakage past the head gasket. Oil and coolant in the
combustion chamber, combined with blue or con-
stant white smoke from the tailpipe, are symptoms of
this problem. However, don’t be alarmed by the nor-
mal white smoke emitted from the tailpipe during en-
gine warm-up or from cold weather driving. There
may be evidence of water droplets on the engine dip-
stick and/or oil droplets in the cooling system if a
head gasket is blown.
OIL PRESSURETEST
Check for proper oil pressure at the sending unit
passage with an externally mounted mechanical oil
pressure gauge (as opposed to relying on a factory
Installed dash-mounted gauge). A tachometer may
also be needed, as some specifications may require
running the engine at a specific rpm.
1. With the engine cold, locate and remove the oil
pressure sending unit.
2. Followrng the manufacturers instructions,
connect a mechanical oil pressure gauge and, if nec-
essary, a tachometer to the engine.
3 Start the engine and allow it to idle.
4 Check the oil pressure reading when cold and
record the number. You may need to run the engine
at a specified rpm, so check the specifications,
5. Run the engine until normal operating temper-
ature is reached (upper radiator hose will feel warm)
6. Check the oil pressure reading again with the
engine hot and record the number. Turn the engine
OFF. 7. Compare your hot oil pressure reading to that
given in the chart If the reading is low, check the
cold pressure reading against the chart. If the cold
pressure IS well above the specification, and the hot
reading was lower than the specification, you may
have the wrong viscosity oil in the engine. Change
the oil, making sure to use the proper grade and
quantity, then repeat the test.
Low oil pressure readings could be attributed to
internal component wear, pump related problems, a
low oil level, or oil viscosity that is too low. High oil
pressure readings could be caused by an overfilled
crankcase, too htgh of an oil viscosity or a faulty
pressure relief valve.
Now that you have determined that your engine is
worn out, you must make some decisions. The ques-
tion of whether or not an engine IS worth rebuilding
is largely a subjective matter and one of personal
worth. Is the engine a popular one, or IS it an obso-
lete model? Are parts available? Will it get acceptable
gas mileage once It is rebuilt? Is the car its being put
into worth keeping? Would it be less expensive to
buy a new engine, have your engine rebuilt by a pro,
rebuild it yourself or buy a used engine from a sal-
vage yard? Or would It be simpler and less expensive
to buy another car? If you have considered all these
matters and more, and have still decided to rebuild
the engine, then it is time to decide how you will re-
build it.

1992-00 DIAMANTE CHASSIS SCHEMATIC 1992-95 DIAMANTE CHASSIS SCHEMATIC
KEY
REMINDER
SWITCH HOT AT ML TlMES
P FUSIBLE
LINK
:0 A
IONITIMI .
SWITCH
1996-2000 HOT AT ALL TlMES NOT AT ALL Tll’+i?S
FUSE FUSIBL2
IS LINK
15A 1. GENERATOR
WA RELAY
1992-1995 HOT IN RUN OR START HOT AT ALL TIMES
FUSIBLE
LINK
LA
ii:
2
IC EGLKATOR
HOT IN RI ALL TlflES
1996-2000 J START HOT IN RUN OR START
FUSE FUSE
I2 I3
IOA IOA
IGNITION
SWITCN
PARKI
NEUTRAL
FoslTloN
SWITCN
$
1
CHARGING
LIGHT
ASSIST
ECN .
DIAGRAM43 DIAGRAM44 93156829 93156830

I
1996-00 DIAMANTE CHASSIS SCHEMATIC
1996-00 DIAMANTE CHASSIS SCHEMATIC
TIMES
‘FUSE
LA .L TIMES
I FUSIBLE
LINK
6
Lo1 HOT AT ALL TIMES HOT b
TAILLIGHT
RELAY HOT IN RlM OR START
FUSE
I
IDA
5
PARK/NEUTRAL
PARK POSlTlON
*I SWITCH
R’f .Dmz
d
a
I,
ASSIST ELECTRONIC CONTROL cm-7
(ECU)
RADIATOR
2AY e
d
1
RADlATOR
FAN
RELAY
WI)
( lNSTRlMENT PANEL 3’*“’ CONTROL UNIT 1
* CONDENSER
FAN
HOTQR
HEADLIGHT
SWITCH
93156866
I
LEFT
REAR
SlDE
MARKER
LIGHT
LEFT
REAR
LID
LIGHT
DIAGRAM 55
DIAGRAM 56

7-10 DRIVETRAIN
The automatic transaxle allows engine torque and
power to be transmitted to the front wheels within a
narrow range of engine operating speeds. It will allow
the engine to turn fast enough to produce plenty of
power and torque at very low speeds, while keeping it
at a sensible rpm at high vehicle speeds (and it does
this job without driver assistance). The transaxle uses
a light fluid as the medium for the transmission of
power. This fluid also works in ths operation of vari-
ous hydraulic control circuits and as a lubricant. Be-
cause the transaxle fluid performs all of these func-
tions, trouble within the unit can easily travel from one
part to another For this reason, and because of the
complexity and unusual operating principles of the
transaxle, a very sound understanding of the basic
principles of operation will simplify troubleshooting
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION
Pan removal, fluid and filter
in Section 1 of this manual changes are covered
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION
1990-97 Mirage and 1990-93 Galant
# See Figure 44
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect the selector cable from the lever
3. Remove the two retaining screws and lift off
the switch.
To install: 4. Mount and position new switch. Do not tighten
the bolts until the switch is adjusted.
5. Connect selector cable and adjust switch.
6. After installation and adjustment make sure the
engine only starts in the
P and N selections. Also check
that the reverse lights operate only in the R selectlon.
1994-00 Galant and 1998-00 Mirage
e See Figure 44
93157pm Fig. 44 Typically, the park/neutral position
switch is located on the top of the transaxle
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the nut attaching the shift control ca-
ble from the transaxle manual shaft lever. Position
the control cable out of the way.
3. Place the manual shaft lever in the Neutral
position, remove the nut and the manual shaft lever.
4. Detach the park/neutral switch electrical con-
nector.
5. Remove the park/neutral switch mounting
bolts and remove the switch from the transaxle man-
ual shaft.
To install: 6. Install the park/neutral switch to the transaxle
manual shaft and install the switch mounting bolts
Do not tighten the mounting bolts unh the switch is
adjusted.
7. Install the manual shaft lever to the park/neu-
tral switch with the nut. Make sure that the shaft lever
is in the Neutral position.
8. Adjust the switch in the following manner:
turn the switch body until the hole in the body of the
switch aligns with the hole in the manual shaft lever.
Insert a drill bit or equivalent into the holes. Tighten
the switch mounting bolts to 8 ft. Ibs. (11 Nm).
9. Attach the electrical connector.
10. Install the control cable to the manual shaft
lever with the nut. Adjust the cable so that there is no
slack in the cable and that the selector lever moves
smoothly
11. Reconnect the negative battery cable Check
for proper starting and proper reverse light operatron.
Diamante
ti See Figure 44
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Wait at least 90 seconds after the negative
battery cable is disconnected to prevent pos-
sible deployment of the air bag.
2. Disconnect the selector cable from the lever.
3. Remove the two retaining screws and lift off
the switch.
To install: 4. Install the lever, tighten the bolts only hand
tight.
5. Rotate switch body so the manual control lever
0.20 inch (5mm) hole and the switch body 0.20 inch
(5mm) holes are aligned.
6. Tighten the mounting bolts to 7-8 ft. Ibs.
(10-12 Nm).
7. Connect the selector cable to the lever.
8. Connect the negative battery cable.
9. After installahon and adjustment make sure the
engine only starts in the
P and N selections. Also
check that the reverse lights operate only in the R se- lection.
ADJUSTMENT
1990-97 Mirage and 1990-93 Galant
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable and lo-
cate the neutral safety switch on the top of the
transaxle.
*Apply parking brake and chock wheels be-
fore placing transaxle into the N position
2. At the transmission, loosen the shift cable ad-
justment nut. Inside the vehicle place the gearshift
selector lever in N
3. Place the manual shift control lever in N.
4. Loosen neutral safety switch mounhng screws
and rotate switch body so the manual control lever
0.20 in. (5mm) hole and the switch body 0.20 in.
(5mm) holes are aligned.
5. Tighten switch body mounting bolts to 7-8 ft.
Ibs. (lo-12 Nm).
6. At the shift cable adjusting nut, gently pull ca-
ble to remove any slack. Tighten locknut to 8 ft. Ibs.
(12 Nm)
7. Verify that the switch lever moves to positions
corresponding to each position of the selector lever.
Connect the negative battery terminal.
8. Make sure the engine only starts in the
P and
N positions. Also make sure the reverse lights oper-
ate only in
R selection.
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION
Diamante
) See Figures 45, 46, 47, and 48
1. Properly disarm the SRS system (air bag).
Refer to Section 6.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. Remove the front wheels.
4. Remove the engine side cover and undercov-
ers.
5. Drain the transaxle assembly into a suitable
container.
6. If equipped, remove the front catalytic con-
verter.
7. Remove the exhaust pipe, main muffler and
catalytic converter.
8. Disconnect the tie rod end and ball joint from
the steering knuckle.
9. Unbolt the support bearing for the left side
halfshaft.
10. Remove the halfshafts by inserting a prybar
between the transaxle case and the driveshaft and
prying the shaft from the transaxle.
11. Remove the air cleaner assembly and adjoin-
ing duct work.
12. Detach the engine harness connection.
13. If the vehicle is equipped with Active Elec-
tronlc Controlled Suspension (Active-ECS), remove
the compressor assembly from the transaxle and sus-
pend with wire. Do not allow the compressor to hang
from the air hose.
14. If equipped, remove the roll stopper stay
bracket.
15. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the
transaxle.
16. Remove the clip that secures the shifter and
disconnect the shifter control cable from the
transaxle.
17. Disconnect and plug the oil cooler hoses
from the transaxle.
18. Detach the following: