light OPEL FRONTERA 1998 Workshop Manual

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THIS MALUAL INCLUDES THE FOLLOWING SECTIONS:
SECTION No. CONTRNTS
8A LIGHTING SYSTEM
8B WIPER / WASHER SYSTEM
8C ENTERTAINMENT
8D WIRING SYSTEM
8E METER AND GAUGE
8F BODY STRUCTURE
8G SEATS
8H SECURITY AND LOCKS
8I SUN ROOF/CONVERTIBLE TOP
8J EXTERIOR / INTERIOR TRIM
HOME
8A
8B
8C
8D
8E
8F
8G
8H
8I
8J

B-18
FL-1 Main
80A
0.5G/R16
107 8
I-32
I-32 C-16
10A0.3R/W
0.5BRBackup
Power supply (12V)
Unit ground
Automatic heater/air conditioner control unit
B-18B-36H-14
C-20
10A A/C
Relay:
Heater and air
conditioner
0.5B
1.25B 2B
Lighting switchLighting switch
H-141H-269
H-2614
H-2720
H-1614 2
14
3 B-36
H-16
H-26H-27I-32
D08RY00175

HD6 TYPE COMPRESSOR
Metric Thread Size Information
Compressor to mounting bracket bolts (Front)
M10
1.5 – 6H
Compressor to mounting bracket bolts (Rear)
M8
1.25 – 6H
Suction-discharge port screw
M10
1.5 – 6HCompressor shaft
M9
1.25 – 6H
Internal hub-clutch drive assembly
M22
1.5 – 6H
COMPRESSOR CLUTCH PLATE AND HUB
ASSEMBLY
Removal
1. Clamp the holding fixture J-33026 in a vise and
attach compressor to holding fixture with thumb
screws J-33026-1.
2. With center screw forcing tip in place to thrust
against the end of the shaft, thread the Clutch Plate
and Hub Assembly Installer-Remover J-33013-B into
the hub. Hold the body of the remover with a wrench
and turn the center screw into the remover body to
remove the clutch plate and hub assembly (1).
CAUTION: Do not drive or pound on the clutch hub
or shaft. Internal damage to compressor may
result. The forcing tip on J-33013-B remover-
installer center screw must be flat or the end of the
shaft/axial plate assembly will be damaged.
3. Remove the shaft key and retain for reassembly.
Installation
1. Install the shaft key into the hub key groove. Allow
the key to project approximately 3.2 mm (1/8 in) out
of the keyway. The shaft key is curved slightly to
provide an interference fit in the hub key groove.2. Be sure the frictional surface of the clutch plate and
the clutch rotor (2) are clean before installing the
clutch plate and hub assembly (1).
3. Align the shaft key (4) with the shaft keyway (3) and
place the clutch plate and the hub assembly onto
the compressor shaft.
4. Remove the forcing tip on J-33013-B clutch plate
and hub assembly installer-remover center screw
and reverse the body direction on the center screw,
as shown in Figure.
5. Install the clutch plate and hub installer-remover J-
33013-B with bearing as shown in Figure.
The body of the J-33013-B installer-remover should
be backed off sufficiently to allow the center screw to
be threaded onto the end of the compressor shaft.
6. Hold the center screw with a wrench. Tighten the
hex portion of the installer-remover J-33013-B body
to press the hub onto the shaft. Tighten the body
several turns, remove the installer and check to see
that the shaft key is still in place in the keyway
before installing the clutch plate and hub
assembly to its finial position.The air gap (2)
between frictional surfaces of the clutch plate and
clutch rotor should be 0.50–0.76 mm (.020–.030 in).
1
J-33013-B
J-33026-1
J-33026
901RW001
4
31
2
871RW003

CAUTION: If the center screw is threaded fully onto
the end of the compressor shaft. or if the body of
the installer is held and the center screw is rotated,
the key will wedge and will break the clutch hub.7. Remove installer J-33013-B, check for proper
positioning of the shaft key (even or slightly above
the clutch hub).
8. Spin the pulley rotor by hand to see that the rotor is
not rubbing the clutch drive plate.
COMPRESSOR CLUTCH ROTOR AND/OR
BEARING
Removal
1. Remove the clutch plate and hub assembly as
described previously.
2. Remove rotor (1) and bearing assembly retaining
ring (2), using snap ring pliers.
3. Install pulley rotor and bearing puller guide J-33023-A
to the front head and install J-41552 pulley rotor and
bearing puller down into the inner circle of slots (1) in
the rotor. Turn the J-41552 puller clockwise in the
slots in the rotor.4.Hold the J-41552 puller in place and tighten the
puller screw against the puller guide to remove the
pulley rotor and bearing assembly.
Installation
1. With the compressor mounted to the J-34992
holding fixture, position the rotor and bearing
assembly on the front head.
2. Position the J-33017 pulley, rotor and bearing
installer and J-33023-A puller pilot directly over the
inner race of the bearing.
1
2 J-33013-B
901RW002
1
2
901RW003
J-41552
1
871RW007

DIFFERENTIAL (REAR 220mm)
4A2A–3
Diagnosis
Many noises that seem to come from the rear axle
actually originate from other sources such as tires, road
surface, wheel bearings, engine, transmission, muffler, or
body drumming. Investigate to find the source of the
noise before disassembling the rear axle. Rear axles, like
any other mechanical device, are not absolutely quiet but
should be considered quiet unless some abnormal noise
is present.
To make a systematic check for axle noise, observe the
following:
1. Select a level asphalt road to reduce tire noise and
body drumming.
2. Check rear axle lubricant level to assure correct level,
and then drive the vehicle far enough to thoroughly
warm up the rear axle lubricant.
3. Note the speed at which noise occurs. Stop the
vehicle and put the transmission in neutral. Run the
engine speed slowly up and down to determine if the
noise is caused by exhaust, muffler noise, or other
engine conditions.
4. Tire noise changes with different road surfaces; axle
noises do not. Temporarily inflate all tires to 344 kPa
(3.5kg/cm
2, 50 psi) (for test purposes only). This will
change noise caused by tires but will not affect noise
caused by the rear axle.
Rear axle noise usually stops when coasting at
speeds under 48 km/h (30 mph); however, tire noise
continues with a lower tone. Rear axle noise usually
changes when comparing pull and coast, but tire
noise stays about the same.
Distinguish between tire noise and rear axle noise by
noting if the noise changes with various speeds or
sudden acceleration and deceleration. Exhaust and
axle noise vary under these conditions, while tire
noise remains constant and is more pronounced at
speeds of 32 to 48 km/h (20 to 30 mph). Further check
for tire noise by driving the vehicle over smooth
pavements or dirt roads (not gravel) with the tires at
normal pressure. If the noise is caused by tires, it will
change noticeably with changes in road surface.
5. Loose or rough front wheel bearings will cause noise
which may be confused with rear axle noise; however,
front wheel bearing noise does not change when
comparing drive and coast. Light application of the
brake while holding vehicle speed steady will often
cause wheel bearing noise to diminish. Front wheel
bearings may be checked for noise by jacking up the
wheels and spinning them or by shaking the wheels to
determine if bearings are loose.
6. Rear suspension rubber bushings and spring
insulators dampen out rear axle noise when correctly
installed. Check to see that there is no link or rod
loosened or metal–to–metal contact.
7. Make sure that there is no metal–to–metal contact
between the floor and the frame.
After the noise has been determined to be in the axle, the
type of axle noise should be determined, in order to make
any necessary repairs.
Gear Noise
Gear noise (whine) is audible from 32 to 89 km/h (20 to 55
mph) under four driving conditions.
1. Driving under acceleration or heavy pull.
2. Driving under load or under constant speed.
3. When using enough throttle to keep the vehicle from
driving the engine while the vehicle slows down
gradually (engine still pulls slightly).
4. When coasting with the vehicle in gear and the throttle
closed. The gear noise is usually more noticeable
between 48 and 64 km/h (30 and 40 mph) and 80 and
89 km/h (50 and 55 mph).
Bearing Noise
Bad bearings generally produce a rough growl or grating
sound, rather than the whine typical of gear noise.
Bearing noise frequently “wow–wows” at bearing rpm,
indicating a bad pinion or rear axle side bearing. This
noise can be confused with rear wheel bearing noise.
Rear Wheel Bearing Noise
Rear wheel bearing noise continues to be heard while
coasting at low speed with transmission in neutral. Noise
may diminish by gentle braking. Jack up the rear wheels,
spin them by hand and listen for noise at the hubs.
Replace any faulty wheel bearings.
Knock At Low Speeds
Low speed knock can be caused by worn universal joints
or a side gear hub counter bore in the cage that is worn
oversize. Inspect and replace universal joints or cage and
side gears as required.
Backlash Clunk
Excessive clunk on acceleration and deceleration can be
caused by a worn rear axle pinion shaft, a worn cage,
excessive clearance between the axle and the side gear
splines, excessive clearance between the side gear hub
and the counterbore in the cage, worn pinion and side
gear teeth, worn thrust washers, or excessive drive pinion
and ring gear backlash. Remove worn parts and replace
as required. Select close–fitting parts when possible.
Adjust pinion and ring gear backlash.

DIFFERENTIAL (REAR 220mm)
4A2A–27
Pressure ring
425RS057
Legend
(3) Sliding surface with the friction disc. When
nicks or scratches are found, polish with an oil
stone and repair on a level block using a
compound.
(4) Sliding spherical surface with the pinion gear.
(5) Sliding surface with the side gear.
(6) V–shaped groove of the pressure ring and V
–shaped section of the pinion shaft.
(7) Fitting section with the case.
(8) Face contacting the inner surface of the
differential case. Repair burrs and nicks using
an oil stone.
Thrust washer
425RS058
Legend
(9) Sliding surface with the side gear or case.
(10) Peripheral groove of the side gear.
Repair light nicks and burrs using an oil stone.
Case
425RS059
Legend
(11) Contact surface with the spring disc.
(12) Inner groove of the differential cage B.
Repair light nicks and burrs using an oil stone.
425RS060

DIFFERENTIAL (REAR 244mm)
4A2B–3
Diagnosis
Many noises that seem to come from the rear axle
actually originate from other sources such as tires, road
surface, wheel bearings, engine, transmission, muffler, or
body drumming. Investigate to find the source of the
noise before disassembling the rear axle. Rear axles, like
any other mechanical device, are not absolutely quiet but
should be considered quiet unless some abnormal noise
is present.
To make a systematic check for axle noise, observe the
following:
1. Select a level asphalt road to reduce tire noise and
body drumming.
2. Check rear axle lubricant level to assure correct level,
and then drive the vehicle far enough to thoroughly
warm up the rear axle lubricant.
3. Note the speed at which noise occurs. Stop the
vehicle and put the transmission in neutral. Run the
engine speed slowly up and down to determine if the
noise is caused by exhaust, muffler noise, or other
engine conditions.
4. Tire noise changes with different road surfaces; axle
noises do not. Temporarily inflate all tires to 344 kPa
(3.5kg/cm
2, 50 psi) (for test purposes only). This will
change noise caused by tires but will not affect noise
caused by the rear axle.
Rear axle noise usually stops when coasting at
speeds under 48 km/h (30 mph); however, tire noise
continues with a lower tone. Rear axle noise usually
changes when comparing pull and coast, but tire
noise stays about the same.
Distinguish between tire noise and rear axle noise by
noting if the noise changes with various speeds or
sudden acceleration and deceleration. Exhaust and
axle noise vary under these conditions, while tire
noise remains constant and is more pronounced at
speeds of 32 to 48 km/h (20 to 30 mph). Further check
for tire noise by driving the vehicle over smooth
pavements or dirt roads (not gravel) with the tires at
normal pressure. If the noise is caused by tires, it will
change noticeably with changes in road surface.
5. Loose or rough front wheel bearings will cause noise
which may be confused with rear axle noise; however,
front wheel bearing noise does not change when
comparing drive and coast. Light application of the
brake while holding vehicle speed steady will often
cause wheel bearing noise to diminish. Front wheel
bearings may be checked for noise by jacking up the
wheels and spinning them or by shaking the wheels to
determine if bearings are loose.
6. Rear suspension rubber bushings and spring
insulators dampen out rear axle noise when correctly
installed. Check to see that there is no link or rod
loosened or metal–to–metal contact.
7. Make sure that there is no metal–to–metal contact
between the floor and the frame.
After the noise has been determined to be in the axle, the
type of axle noise should be determined, in order to make
any necessary repairs.
Gear Noise
Gear noise (whine) is audible from 32 to 89 km/h (20 to 55
mph) under four driving conditions.
1. Driving under acceleration or heavy pull.
2. Driving under load or under constant speed.
3. When using enough throttle to keep the vehicle from
driving the engine while the vehicle slows down
gradually (engine still pulls slightly).
4. When coasting with the vehicle in gear and the throttle
closed. The gear noise is usually more noticeable
between 48 and 64 km/h (30 and 40 mph) and 80 and
89 km/h (50 and 55 mph).
Bearing Noise
Bad bearings generally produce a rough growl or grating
sound, rather than the whine typical of gear noise.
Bearing noise frequently “wow–wows” at bearing rpm,
indicating a bad pinion or rear axle side bearing. This
noise can be confused with rear wheel bearing noise.
Rear Wheel Bearing Noise
Rear wheel bearing noise continues to be heard while
coasting at low speed with transmission in neutral. Noise
may diminish by gentle braking. Jack up the rear wheels,
spin them by hand and listen for noise at the hubs.
Replace any faulty wheel bearings.
Knock At Low Speeds
Low speed knock can be caused by worn universal joints
or a side gear hub counter bore in the cage that is worn
oversize. Inspect and replace universal joints or cage and
side gears as required.
Backlash Clunk
Excessive clunk on acceleration and deceleration can be
caused by a worn rear axle pinion shaft, a worn cage,
excessive clearance between the axle and the side gear
splines, excessive clearance between the side gear hub
and the counterbore in the cage, worn pinion and side
gear teeth, worn thrust washers, or excessive drive pinion
and ring gear backlash. Remove worn parts and replace
as required. Select close–fitting parts when possible.
Adjust pinion and ring gear backlash.

4A2B–24DIFFERENTIAL (REAR 244mm)
4. Remove Differential shaft (2) using hammer and
punch.
Place shop towel behind case to prevent differential
shaft from dropping out of case.
425RW005
5. Assemble clutch pack unloading tool
5–8840–2586–0 .
a. Install cap (1) to the bottom differential side gear.
b. Install threaded screw cap (2) to top differential
side gear. Thread forcing screws (3) into threaded
screw cap until it becomes centered into the
bottom cap.
425RW064
c. Tighten forcing screw until tight enough to collapse
dished spacers and allow looseness between side
and pinion mate gears.6. Both pinion mate gear thrust washers using a shim
stock (1) of 0.51 mm (0.020 in.) or equivalent tool to
push out washers.
425RW007
7. Relieve tension of dished spacers by loosening
forcing screw.
NOTE:
You may have to adjust the forcing screw slightly to
allow the case to rotate.
8. Insert differential shaft into its hole of case. Pull on
shaft and rotate case until pinion mate gears can be
removed.
9. Remove pinion mate gears.
10. Hold side gear top clutch pack (1) with one hand and
remove positraction unloading tools.
425RW008

4B1–25 DRIVE LINE CONTROL SYSTEM (SHIFT ON THE FLY)
Diagnosis of the Faults Based on the
Status of 4WD Indicator Lamp, 4WD
Switch and T/F Change Lever
Diagnosis charts are shown on below. If troubles can not
be solved after every chart was traced, troubles may
occur in the 4WD control unit. In this case, replace the
4WD control unit and trace every chart again.
Fault on switching from 2WD to 4WD
1.In case that 4WD indicator’s blinking changes
from 2Hz to 4Hz after Solution 1 is carried out.
Faults occur in the motor actuator or the transfer case
assembly. Remove the motor actuator and check
function. If problem was found and it was repaired, try
Solution 1 again. After that, disassemble the
transfer case assembly for check and repair or
replace. If incident is not improved after above
mentioned actions were taken, replace the 4WD
control unit.
2.In case that 4WD indicator does not blink nor
light, when switching from 2WD to 4WD.
Step
ActionYe sNo
1Is ignition turned on?
Go to Step 2
Turn on the
ignition and trace
this chart from
start.
2
Does the indicator light comes on when the engine is not started?
Go to Step 3
Burning out of
indicator lamp or
disconnection of
harness wire.
Trace this chart
from the start
after repair or
replace.
3Start the engine.
Is the 4WD switch turned from 2WD to 4WD?Short-circuit
(body short) on
harness of the
4WD switch.
Fault of the 4WD
switch (holding
the closed
condition).
Trace this chart
from the start
after repair or
replace.
Push the 4WD
switch to 4WD.

4B1–30
DRIVE LINE CONTROL SYSTEM (SHIFT ON THE FLY)
Front Axle Diagnosis
When the 4WD switch is operated from 4H to 2H,
indicator light does not go out.
Step
ActionYe sNo
1Drive slow 100 — 200m after a few minutes” idling.
Has indicator light gone out?
All right.Go to Step 2
2Jack up front tires.
Does the right side of front wheel rotate when the left side of f r o n t
wheel is rotated?
Go to Step 4Go to Step 3
31. Check the actuator switch.
2. Check the circuit to indicator.
Was a problem found?
Trace this chart
from the start
after repair or
replace.
Disassemble axle
ASM for check.
Trace this chart
from the start
after repair or
replace.
41. Check the VSV valve.
2. Check the circuit to VSV valve.
Was a problem found?Trace this chart
from the start
after repair or
replace.
Go to Step 5
5I s v a c u u m p i p i n g a l l r i g h t ? ( t a n k , h o s e , & p i p e d a m a g e o r t r o u ble)
Go to Step 6
Trace this chart
from the start
after repair or
replace.
6Does actuator work all right?
Trace this chart
from the start.
Disassemble axle
ASM for check.
Trace this chart
from the start
after repair or
replace.