seats FORD MUSTANG 1969 Volume One Chassis

03-07-06
Ford Design Non-Integral Power Steering System

03-07-06

VALVE HOUSING

VALVE SPOOL

G
1659-
A

FIG. 70—Inserting Valve Spool

13.
Pick up the housing, and slide

the spool back and forth in the hous-

ing to check for free movement.

14.
Place the valve sleeve on the

housing so that the ball stud is on the

same side of the housing as the ports

for the two power cylinder lines. In-

stall the two bolts in the sleeve, and

torque them to specifications.

15.
Place the adapter on the cen-

tering spring end of the housing, and

install the bushing, washers, spacers,

and centering spring on the valve

spool bolt.

16.
Compress the centering spring,

and install the nut on the bolt. Tight-

en the nut snug (90-100 in-lbs); then

loosen it not more than 1/4 turn (Fig.

11).
Make sure that the nut turns (90

degrees) on the threads of bolt. Exces-

sive tightening of the nut may break

the stop pin at the travel regulator

stop.

TIGHTEN NUT SNUG

(90-100 IN -LBS) THEN

LOOSEN % TURN ON

THREADS OF BOLT

ADJUSTING

NUT

CENTERING SPRING

ADAPTER

G 1034 -C

FIG. 11—Adjusting Centering

Spring

17.
Move the ball stud back and

forth in the sleeve slot to check the

spool for free movement. See Part

3-13 for the specified travel. Apply
COAZ-19553-A (silicone) grease at

the sealing areas.

18.
Lubricate the two cap attaching

bolts.
Install the centering spring cap

on the valve housing, and torque the

two cap bolts to specification.

19.
Install the nut on the ball stud

so that the valve can be positioned in

a vise as shown in Fig. 12. Then push

forward on the cap end of the valve to

check the valve spool for free move-

ment.

20.
Turn the valve around in the

vise,
and push forward on the sleeve

end to check the spool for free move-

ment.

PUSH FORWARD TO CHECK

VALVE SPOOL MOVEMENT

G 1660-A

FIG. 12—Inspecting Valve Spool

Movement

POWER CYLINDER SEAL

REMOVAL

1.
Clamp the power cylinder in a

vise,
and remove the snap ring from

the end of the cylinder. Be careful not

to distort or crack the cylinder in the

vise.

2.
Pull the piston rod out all the

way to remove the scraper, bushing,

and seals. If the seals cannot be re-
moved in this manner, remove them

from the cylinder with a sharp pick.

Take care, when using a pick, not to

damage the shaft or seal seat.

INSTALLATION

When replacing the power cylinder

seals,
install all of the parts supplied

in the repair kit for the cylinder being

repaired.

1.
Coat the new seals with lubricant

COAZ-19553-A and place the parts

(Fig. 13) on the piston rod which has

been coated with the same grease.

2.
Push the rod in all the way, and

install the parts in the cylinder with a

deep socket slightly smaller than the

cylinder opening (Fig. 14).

15/16"
O.D. X6" STEEL

ELECTRICAL CONDUIT

POWER

CYLINDER

G 1662-A

FIG. 14—Installing Power

Cylinder Seals

POWER STEERING PUMP

RESERVOIR REPLACEMENT

Refer to Group 3-10, Section 3 for

detailed instructions.

INSERT

RUBBER WIPER

SCRAPER

SEATS'

FIG. 73—Power Cylinder
SNAP RING

G 1661-Aprocarmanuals.com

03-08-06

Ford Design Integral Power Steering Gear

03-08-06

VALVE HOUSING

7W-T65P

C1239 -A

FIG. 7—Removing or Installing Lock

Nut

drain the remaining fluid from the

gear.

2.
Mount the gear in a soft-jawed

vise.

3.
Remove the lock nut and the

brass washer from the adjusting screw.

4.
Turn the input shaft to either

stop then, turn it back approximately

1 3/4 turns to center the gear.

5.
Remove the two sector shaft

cover attaching screws and the
identif-

ication tag.

6. Tap the lower end of the sector

shaft with a soft-hammer to loosen it,

then lift the cover and shaft from the

housing as an assembly. Discard the

O-ring.

7.
Turn the sector shaft cover coun-

terclockwise off the adjuster screw.

8. Remove the four valve housing

attaching bolts. Lift the valve housing

from the steering gear housing while

holding the piston to prevent it from

rotating off the worm shaft. Remove

the valve housing and the lube passage

O-rings and discard them.

9. Stand the valve body and piston

on end with the piston end down. Ro-

tate the input shaft counterclockwise

out of the piston allowing the ball

bearings to drop into the piston.

10.
Place a cloth over the open end

of the piston and turn it upside down

to remove the balls.

11.
Remove the two screws that at-

tach the ball guide clamp (Fig. 6) to

the ball nut and remove the clamp and

the guides.

12.
Install the valve body assembly

in the holding fixture (do not clamp

in a vise) and remove the lock nut and

the attaching nut as shown in Fig. 7.

13.
Carefully slide the input shaft,

worm and valve assembly out of the

valve housing. Due to the close diame-

trical clearance between the spool and

housing, the slightest cocking of the

spool may cause it to jam in the hous-

ing.

14.
Remove the shim from the

valve housing bore.
OIL SEAL

INLET TUBE SEAT

OUTLET TUBE SEAT
DUST SEAL

G1549-A

FIG.
8—Valve Housing Disassembled

Too/-T<

Tool-

T57L-500-A ,^^^

G1364-A

FIG. 9—Removing Bearing and Oil

Seal

PARTS REPAIR

OR REPLACEMENT

Valve Housing

1.
Remove the dust seal (Fig. 8)

from the rear of the valve housing

with Tools T59L-100-B and T58L-

101-A and discard the seal.

2.
Remove the snap ring from the

valve housing.

3.
Turn the fixture to place the

valve housing in an inverted position.

4.
Insert special tool in the valve

body assembly opposite the seal end

and gently tap the bearing and seal

out of the housing as shown in Fig.

9. Discard the seal. Caution must be

exercised when inserting and removing

the tool to prevent damage to the

valve bore in the housing.

5.
Remove the fluid inlet and outlet

tube seats with an EZ-out if they are

damaged.
Press Ra
Tool-

T65P-3524-A7

G1363-A

FIG. 10—Installing Valve Housing

Bearing

6. Coat the fluid inlet and outlet

tube seats with vaseline and position

them in the housing. Install and tight-

en the tube nuts to press the seats to

the proper location.

7.
Coat the bearing and seal surface

of the housing with a film of vaseline.

8. Position the bearing in the valve

housing. Seat the bearing in the valve

housing with the tool shown in Fig.

10.
Make sure that the bearing is

free to rotate.

9. Dip the new oil seal in gear lu-

bricant; then, place it in the housing

with the metal side of the seal facing

outward. Drive the seal into the hous-

ing until the outer edge of seal does

not quite clear the snap ring groove

(Fig. 11).

10.
Place the snap ring in the hous-

ing; then, drive on the ring with the

tool shown in Fig. 11 until the snap

ring seats in its groove to properly lo-

cate the seal.procarmanuals.com

03-10-07
Ford-Thompson Power Steering Pump

03-10-07

15.
Place small amounts of vaseline

on the pump housing plate to hold the

cover gasket in place. Install the gas-

ket on the pump housing plate.

16.
Insert the pressure plate springs

into the pockets in the pump valve as-

sembly. Vaseline may be placed in the

spring pockets to hold the springs in

position (Fig. 17).

17.
Using Tool T69P-3B586-A,

plug the intake hole in the housing

(Fig. 17).

18.
Lubricate the inside of the

housing and the housing cover seal

with C1AZ-19582-A lubricant. Fabri-

cate two studs (3/8-16x1.55 ) to be

used as positioning guides. Install one

in the housing plate bolt hole closest

to the drain hole and one in the bolt

hole diametrically opposite.

19.
Align the small diameter lube

hole in the housing rim with the lube

hole in the housing plate.

20.
Install the housing, applying an

even, downward pressure. The pres-
sure plate springs must not be jarred

and moved out of position. Remove

the guide studs.

21.
Install the housing retaining

bolts finger tight.

22.
Remove Tool T69P-3B586-A.

23.
Torque the retaining bolts even-

ly to 28-32 ft-lbs until the housing

flange contacts the gasket.

24.
Install a 3/8x16 hex head

screw, finger tight, into the end of the

rotor shaft. Using a torque wrench,

check the input torque of the shaft

(Fig. 18). The torque should not ex-

ceed 15 in-lbs. If it does, loosen the

retaining bolts slightly, rotate the

rotor shaft, retorque the bolts evenly

and again check the shaft torque. The

pump must not be used if the shaft

torque exceeds 15 in-lbs.

25.
Release the pin in the bench

holding fixture and agitate the pump

assembly back and forth. If there is a

rattle, the pressure plate springs have
fallen out of their seats and must be

reinstalled.

26.
Install the reservoir O-ring on

the housing plate being careful not to

twist the O-ring. Apply vaseline to the

seal and to the ID of the reservoir

flange.

27.
Install the reservoir, aligning

the notch in the reservoir flange with

the notch in the OD of the pump

housing plate and bushing assembly.

Using only a plastic or rubber ham-

mer, tap at the rear on the outer cor-

ners of the reservoir to avoid damage.

28.
Inspect the assembly to deter-

mine if the reservoir is seated on the

housing plate.

29.
Install the service identification

tag on the outlet valve fitting.

30.
Install the outlet valve fitting

nut and torque to 43-47 ft-lbs.

31.
Invert the pump assembly.

32.
If the pulley was removed, in-

stall the correct pulley using Tool

T65P-3A733-A.procarmanuals.com

04-02-04
Rear Axle — Removable Carrier Type
04-02-04

IN-VEHICLE ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS

REAR AXLE SHAFT, WHEEL

BEARING AND OIL SEAL

REPLACEMENT

The rear axle shafts, wheel bear-

ings,
and oil seal can be replaced

without removing the differential as-

sembly from the axle housing.

REMOVAL OF

AXLE SHAFT

Synthetic wheel bearing seals are

used in production only. Removal and

insertion of rear axle shafts must be

performed with caution. The entire

length of the shaft (including spline)

up to the seal journal must pass

through the seal without cutting of the

seal element during axle removal or

installation will result in early seal fai-

lure.
Leather seals only will be used as

service replacement for synthetic

wheel bearing seals.

1.
Remove the wheel cover, wheel

and tire from the brake drum.

2.
Remove the nuts that secure the

brake drum to the axle shaft flange,

then remove the drum from flange.

3.
Working through the hole pro-

vided in each axle shaft flange, re-

move the nuts that secure the wheel

bearing retainer plate. Then pull the

axle shaft assembly out of the axle

housing (Fig. 4). The brake backing

plate must not be dislodged. Install

one nut to hold the plate in place after

the axle shaft is removed.

Too/-4235-C

E1032-D

FIG. 4—Removing Axle Shaft

REMOVAL OF REAR

WHEEL BEARING AND

SEAL

Synthetic seals must not be cleaned,

soaked or washed in cleaning solvents.

Removal of the wheel bearings from

the axle shaft makes them unfit for

further use.

1.
On all models except Ford, Mer-

cury or Meteor, if the rear wheel

bearing is to be replaced, loosen the

inner retainer ring by nicking it deeply

with a cold chisel in several places

(Fig. 5). It will then slide off easily.
E 1731-A

FIG. 5—Removing Rear Wheel

Bearing Retainer Ring

On Ford, Mercury and Meteor mo-

dels,
it is necessary to first drill a 1/4

inch hole not more than 5/16 inch

deep in the retainer ring surface bef-

ore using the cold chisel.

2.
Remove the bearing from the

axle shaft with the tool shown in Fig.

6 or Fig. 7.

3.
Whenever a rear axle shaft is re-

placed, the oil seal must be replaced.

Remove the seal with Tool 1175-AB

and a slide hammer (Fig. 8). If new

leather-type wheel bearing service

seals are to be installed, soak new oil

seals in SAE 10 oil for 1/2 hour

before installing.

INSTALLATION OF REAR

WHEEL BEARING AND

SEAL

1.
Inspect the machined surface of

the axle shaft and the axle housing for

rough spots or other irregularities

which would affect the sealing action

of the oil seal. Check the axle shaft

splines for burrs, wear or twist. Care-

fully remove any burrs or rough spots.

Replace worn or damaged parts.

2.
Lightly coat wheel bearing bores

with axle lubricant.

3.
Place the retainer plate on the

axle shaft, and press the new wheel

bearing on the shaft with the tool

shown in Fig. 6 or Fig. 9. Do not at-

tempt to press on both the bearing

and the inner retainer ring at the same

time.

4.
Using the bearing installation

tool (Tool 4621-A or 4234-4), press

the bearing inner retainer ring on the

shaft until the retainer seats firmly

against the bearing. On Ford, Mercu-

ry, or Meteor models, before assem-

bling the retainer onto the axle shaft,

the shaft journal and the inside di-
ameter of the retainer should be wiped

clean with a dry cloth. These parts

must not be degreased or lubricated.

5. Rear wheel oil seals with synthe-

tic sealing elements have been incor-

porated in production only. However,

leather seals only will be used as re-

placements for the synthetic sealing

elements. Install the new oil seal with

the tools shown in Figs. 10 and 12. Be

sure the new seal has been soaked in

SAE 10 oil for 1/2 hour before in-

stalling it. Wipe a small amount of oil

resistant sealer on the outer edge of

the seal before it is installed. Do not

put sealer on the sealing lip.

INSTALLATION OF

AXLE SHAFT

1.
Carefully slide the axle shaft into

the housing so that the rough forging

of the shaft will not damage the oil

seal. Start the axle splines into the

side gear, and push the shaft in until

the bearing bottoms in the housing.

2.
Install the bearing retainer plate

and the nuts that secure it. Torque the

nuts to specifications.

3.
Install the brake drum and the

drum attaching (Tinnerman) nuts.

4.
Install the wheel and tire on the

drum. Install the wheel cover.

DRIVE PINION OIL SEAL

REPLACEMENT

COLLAPSIBLE SPACER

Synthetic seals must not be cleaned,

soaked or washed in cleaning solvent.

The drive pinion oil seal can be re-

placed without removing the differen-

tial carrier assembly from the axle

housing.

1.
Raise the vehicle and install

safety stands. Remove both rear wheels

and brake drums.

2.
Make scribe marks on the drive

shaft end yoke and the axle U-joint

flange to insure proper position of the

drive shaft at assembly (Fig. 11). Dis-

connect the drive shaft from the axle

U-joint flange. Be careful to avoid

dropping the loose universal joint

bearing cups. Hold the cups on the

spider with tape. Mark the cups so

that they will be in their original posi-

tion in relation to the flange when

they are assembled. Remove the drive

shaft from the transmission extension

housing. Install an oil seal replacer

tool in the transmission extension

housing to prevent transmission fluidprocarmanuals.com

04-03-04
Rear Axles — Integral Carrier Type

04-03-04

1.
Remove the wheel cover, wheel

and tire from the brake drum.

2.
Remove the Tinnerman nuts that

secure the brake drum to the axle

housing flange, and then remove the

drum from the flange.

3.
Working through the hole pro-

vided in each axle shaft flange, re-

move the nuts that secure the wheel

bearing retainer plate. Then pull the

axle shaft assembly out of the axle

housing (Fig. 2). The brake backing

plate must, not be dislodged. Install

one nut to hold the plate in place after

the axle shaft is removed.

4.
If the rear wheel bearing is to be

replaced, loosen the inner retainer

ring by nicking it deeply with a cold

chisel in several places (Fig. 3). It will

then slide off easily.

5.
Remove the bearing from the

axle shaft with the tool shown in Fig.

4 or 5. If the push-puller operation

shown in Fig. 5 is used, be sure that

the puller arms contact the flat sur-

face of the axle shaft flange rather

than the bolt heads. Also with this

method, be careful not to damage or

burr the oil seal journal as the bearing

breaks loose.

6. Whenever a rear axle shaft is re-

placed the oil seal must be replaced.

Remove the seal with the tools shown

in Fig. 8. Soak new oil seals in SAE

10 oil for 1/2 hour before installing.

7.
Inspect the machined surfaces of

the axle shaft and the axle housing for

rough spots or other irregularities

which would affect the sealing action

of the oil seal. Check the axle shaft

splines for burrs, wear or damage.

Carefully remove any burrs or rough

spots.
Replace worn or damaged

parts.

8. Lightly coat wheel bearing bores

with axle lubricant.

9. Place the retainer plate on the

axle shaft, and press the new wheel

bearing on the shaft with the tool

shown in Fig. 4 or 5. The bearing

should seat firmly against the shaft

shoulder. Do not attempt to press on

both the bearing and the inner retain-

er ring at the same time.

10.
Using the bearing installation

tool, press the bearing inner retainer

ring on the shaft until the retainer

seats firmly against the bearing.

11.
Wipe all lubricant from the in-

side of the axle housing in the area of

the oil seal before installing the new

seal.

12.
Wipe a small amount of oil res-

istant sealer on the outer edge of the

seal before it is installed. Do not put

sealer on the sealing lip.

13.
Rear wheel oil seals with syn-
thetic sealing elements have been in-

corporated in production. However,

only leather seals will be used as re-

placements for the synthetic sealing

element seals. Install the new oil seal

with the tools shown in Fig. 8. Instal-

lation without use of the proper tool

will distort the seal and cause leakage.

Be sure the new seal has been soaked

in SAE 10 oil for 1/2 hour.

14.
Carefully slide the axle shaft

into the housing so that the rough

forging of the shaft will not damage

the oil seal. Start the axle splines into

the side gear, and push the shaft in

until the bearing bottoms in the housing.

15.
Install the bearing retainer plate

on the mounting bolts at the axle

housing, and install the attaching nuts.

Torque the nuts to specifications.

16.
Install the brake drum and the

drum retaining nuts.

17.
Install the wheel and tire on the

drum, and install the wheel cover.

REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT

OF DRIVE PINION OIL SEAL

Synthetic seals must not be cleaned,

soaked or washed in cleaning solvent.

Replacement of the pinion oil seal

involves removal and installation of

only the pinion shaft nut and the uni-

versal joint flange. However, this op-

eration disturbs the pinion bearing
preload, and this preload must be

carefully reset when assembling.

1.
Raise the vehicle and install safe-

ty stands. Remove the rear wheels and

brake drums.

2.
Make scribe marks on the drive

shaft end yoke and the axle U-joint

flange to insure proper position of the

drive shaft at assembly (Fig. 14). Dis-

connect the drive shaft from the axle

U-joint flange. Be careful to avoid

dropping the loose universal joint

bearing cups. Hold the cups on the

spider with tape. Mark the cups so

that they will be in their original posi-

tion in relation to the flange when

they are assembled. Remove the drive

shaft from the transmission extension

housing. Install an oil seal replacer

tool in the transmission extension

housing to prevent transmission leak-

age.
Refer to the transmission group

for the appropriate tool.

3.
Install an in-lb torque wrench on

the pinion nut Fig. 6. Record the tor-

que required to maintain rotation of

the pinion shaft through several revo-

lutions. \

4.
While holding the flange with the

tool shown in Fig. 9, remove the inte-

gral pinion nut and washer.

5.
Clean the pinion bearing retainer

around the oil seal. Place a drain pan

under the seal, or raise the front of

the vehicle higher than the rear.

KJ
E
I582-A
Tool - 1175-AB

and T50T-100-A

^___ or
J
775-
AE

Torque Wrench

^ mm i e
icot
A

E 1681-A

FIG. 6—Checking Pinion FiG 7_Removing
pjnjon
Sea,

Bearing Preload

,Tool-T58L-101-A or U75-AE

Tool-T50T-100-A

REMOVAL
Tool-60K-1177-B

or 1177-BorC

INSTALLATION E1214-D

FIG. 8—Removing and Installing Axle Shaft Sealprocarmanuals.com

04-04-04
Rear Axle — Ford Light-Duty (WER)

04-04-04

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

AXLE HOUSING

Refer to Fig. 7.

REMOVAL

1.
Raise the vehicle on a hoist.

2.
Remove the wheels and tires

from the brake drums.

3.
Position a drain pan and loosen

the rear axle cover to housing attach-

ing bolts. Drain the housing.

4.
Remove the attaching (Tinner-

man) nuts that secure the brake drums

to the axle shaft flanges, and then re-

move the drums (Fig. 7).

5.
Remove the axle housing cover

bolts,
cover and gasket. Discard the

gasket. Remove the drain pan.

6. Disconnect the drive shaft at the

drive pinion companion flange. Re-

move the drive shaft from the trans-

mission extension housing. Install an

oil seal replacer tool in the transmis-

sion housing to prevent leakage. Refer

to the transmission group for the ap-

propriate tool.

7.
Disconnect the lower end of the

shock absorbers at the mounting

brackets.

8. Disconnect the track bar from

the axle housing stud. If the axle

housing is to be replaced, transfer the

stud to the new housing.

9. Position safety stands under the

rear frame members. Lower the vehi-

cle with the hoist and allow the axle

to lower far enough to relieve rear

spring tension.

10.
Remove the pinion shaft lock

bolt and pinion shaft (Fig. 2), differ-

ential pinion gears and thrust washers.

11.
Push the axle shaft(s) inward

toward the center of the axle housing.

Remove the C-locks from the inner

ends of the axles (Fig. 3). Remove the

axle shafts from the housing. Extreme

care must be used to avoid contacting

the axle shaft seal lip with any portion

of the axle shaft other than the seal

journal.

12.
Disconnect the vent hose from

the rear vent tube and remove all

brake lines from the axle housing re-

taining clips.

13.
Remove the brake backing

plate attaching nuts and the plates

from the axle housing. Suspend the

plates above the axle housing with

mechanics wire. The hydraulic brake

lines and the parking brake cables will

remain attached to the brake backing

plates.
14.
Support the rear axle housine

on a jack.

15.
Remove the right and left rear

springs and insulators.

16.
Remove the nuts, washers and

pivot bolts that connect the suspension

lower arms to the axle housing. Dis-

connect both arms from the axle

housing.

17.
Disconnect the upper suspen-

sion arm from the axle housing by re-

moving the pivot bolt, nut, lock wash-

er and two eccentric washers.

18.
Lower the rear axle to the floor

with the jack and remove the axle

from under the vehicle.

19.
Remove the wheel bearings and

oil seals with the tool shown in Fig. 4.

20.
If the axle housing is being re-

placed, transfer all the differential and

pinion parts to the new housing. Refer

to Section 4, Major Repair Operation

for the procedure.

INSTALLATION

1.
Lightly coat the wheel bearing

rollers with axle lubricant. Install

wheel bearings in the axle housing

with the tool shown in Fig. 5. The

bearings should seat firmly against the

shoulder.

2.
Wipe all lubricant from the oil

seal bore before installing the seal. If

axle housing is being replaced, new

seals must be installed.

3.
Inspect the original seal for

nicks,
scuffs or abnormal wear, and

replace if necessary. New seals are

pre-packed with lubricant and do not

require an oil soak.

4.
Install the seal with the tool

shown in Fig. 6. Installation without

the use of the proper tool will distort

the seal and cause leakage.

5. Raise the rear axle into position

under the vehicle with a hoist or floor

jack. Connect the suspension lower

arms to their mounting brackets on

the axle housing with pivot bolts and

nuts.
Do not tighten the mounting

bolts at this point.

6. Position the suspension upper

arm in its mounting bracket on the

axle housing and install the adjusting

bolt, eccentric washers, lock washer

and nut. Do not tighten the mounting

bolt at this point.

7.
Place the rear coil springs and

insulators into position in the pockets

provided.
8. Place the brake backing plates

on the axle housing flanges, install 4

attaching bolts and nuts and torque

them to specifications.

9. Position the brake lines to the

axle housing and secure them with the

retaining clips. If the axle housing is

new, install a new vent. When install-

ing the new axle vent apply a small

amount of Locktite (C5AZ-19554-B)

to prevent oil leakage between vent

and axle housing. Connect the vent

tube to the vent.

10.
Install the pinion side gears and

thrust washer.

11.
Slide the axle shafts into place

in the axle housing. Exercise care that

splines or any portion of the axle

shafts do not damage the oil seals and

that they engage with the splines of

the differential side gears.

12.
Install the axle shaft C-lock O-

ring and C-lock on the inner end of

the shaft and push the shaft outward

so that the shaft lock seats in the

counterbore of the differential side

gear.

13.
Position the pinion differential

gears and thrust washers 180 degrees

apart to the differential side gears.

Revolve the gear assembly until the

holes in the differential case are al-

igned with the pinion gears.

14.
Position the differential pinion

shaft through the case and pinions, al-

igning the hole in the shaft with the

lock bolt hole. Install the lock bolt

and tighten it to specification.

15.
Clean the gasket mounting sur-

face of the rear axle housing and the

cover. Install a new cover gasket,

cover and the attaching bolts. Torque

the bolts to specification.

16.
Raise the rear axle on a hoist

and remove the safety stands.

17.
Connect the track bar to the

mounting stud. Install the washer and

nut. Torque the nut to specification.

18.
Connect the two rear shock ab-

sorbers to the mounting brackets on

the axle housing and torque the at-

taching nuts to specification.

19.
Make sure that both the front

and rear pivot bolts of the upper and

the two lower arms are loose, then

raise the axle assembly to the con-

trolled height (Fig. 8). Hold the axle

at the controlled height by placing

blocks or pieces of steel pipe between

the axle housing and the bumper rear

screw on the side rail.procarmanuals.com

05-03-03
Clutch
05-03-03

CLUTCH PEDAL

ADJUSTMENTS

Adjust
the
clutch pedal free travel

whenever
the
clutch does
not
disen-

gage properly,
or
when
new
clutch

parts
are
installed. Improper adjust-

ment
of the
clutch pedal
is one of the

most frequent causes
of
clutch failure

and
can be a
contributing factor
in

some transmission failures.

FREE TRAVEL

1.
Disconnect
the
clutch return

spring from
the
release lever.

2.
Loosen
the
release lever
rod

locknut
and
adjusting
nut
(Figs.
1, 2

and
3).

3.
Move
the
clutch release lever

rearward until
the
release bearing

lightly contacts
the
clutch pressure

plate release fingers.

4.
Adjust
the rod
length until
the

rod seats
in the
release lever pocket.

5.
Insert
the
specified feeler gauge

between
the
adjusting
nut and the

swivel sleeve. Then tighten
the
adjust-

ing
nut
against
the
gauge finger tight.

6. Tighten
the
locknut against
the

adjusting
nut,
being careful
not to di-

sturb
the
adjustment. Torque
the
lock-

nut
to
specification
and
remove
the

feeler gauge.

7.
Install
the
clutch return spring.

8. Check
the
free travel
at the
pedal

for conformance
to
specification.
Re-
adjust
if
necessary.

9.
As a
final check, measure
the

pedal free travel with
the
transmission

in neutral
and the
engine running
at

about 3000
rpm. If the
pedal free

travel
at
this speed
is not a
minimum

of
1/2
inch, readjust
the
clutch pedal

free travel. Otherwise,
the
release
fin-

gers
may
contact
the
release bearing

continuously, resulting
in
premature

bearing
and
clutch failure. Free travel

must
be
exactly
to
specification.

CLUTCH ASSIST

SPRING REPLACEMENT

(FAIRLANE, FALCON,

MONTEGO)

1.
Remove
the
cotter
pin
from
the

clutch
rod at the
clutch pedal lever
as-

sembly inside
the
passenger compart-

ment.

2.
Grasp
the
clutch pedal lever

firmly
to
prevent slipping
and
remove

the clutch
rod
from
the
lever. Allow

the clutch pedal lever
to
rest
on the

floor panel.

3.
Remove
the
forward bolt secur-

ing
the
assist spring bracket
to the

brake pedal bracket
and
loosen
the

rear bolt
two or
three turns.
Do not

remove
the
rear bolt.

4.
Grasp
the
assist spring bracket

with pliers
and
rotate upward until
the

spring
can be
separated from
the

bracket.

BRAKE PEDAL

BRACKET

CLUTCH ASSIST SPRING

BRACKET
-
7535

CLUTCH PEDAL

7519
5.
Position
the
assist spring
in the

clutch pedal spring bracket
and the

assist spring bracket. Rotate
the

spring bracket downward until
the

forward bolt holes
in the
assist spring

bracket line
up
with
the
holes
in the

brake pedal bracket
(Fig. 4).

6. Install
the
forward bolt retaining

the assist spring bracket
to the
brake

pedal bracket
and
torque
the
forward

and rear bolts
to
specification.

7.
Install
the
clutch
rod to the

clutch pedal lever
and
insert
the
cotter

pin.

CLUTCH PEDAL, PEDAL

ASSIST SPRING AND/OR

BUSHING REMOVAL

AND INSTALLATION

FORD, MERCURY,

METEOR

1.
Remove
the pin
that secures
the

clutch pedal-to-equalizer
rod to the

clutch pedal.

2.
Grasp
the
clutch pecal lever

firmly
to
prevent slipping
and
remove

the clutch
rod
from
the
lever. Allow

the clutch pedal lever
to
rest
on the

floor.

3.
Loosen
the
lower bolt securing

the assist spring bracket
to the
pedal

support bracket
two or
three turns.

Then, remove
the
upper bolt from
the

bracket.
Do not
remove
the
lower

bolt.

4.
Grasp
the
assist spring bracket

with pliers
and
rotate
it
counterclock-

wise until
the
spring
is
free
(Fig 5).

5.
Remove
the
retaining ring from

the
end of the
clutch pedal shaft. Then

remove
the
shaft, bushings
and
clutch

pedal from
the
support.

6. Remove
the
bushings from
the

pedal shaft
and
pedal support
and

transfer
the
rubber pedal
pad.

7.
After lubricating
the
pedal shaft

ASSIST SPRING

LOWER BOLT

ASSIST SPRING BRACKET-

UPPER
BOL"

C 1769-B

FIG. 4—Clutch Pedal Assembly
—
Fairlane, Montego, Falcon
C2058-A

;. 5—Removing Clutch Assist

Spring
—
Ford,
Mercury and Meteorprocarmanuals.com

06-02-03
Ford Design Three Speed Transmission

06-02-03

STOP
PIN

GROMMET

Tool -
T67P.7347.A

GROMMET

LEVER

CONTROL ROD REMOVAL
^S.
GROMMET INSTALLATION

SET STOP PIN SO THAT THE GROMMET

Tool
-
T67P.734LA
AND
SHIFT ROD ARE PROPERLY SEATED
OMMET—^

SEATED
\

CONTROL ROD INSTALLATION

CONTROL ROD

STOP
PIN

FIG. 4—Removing
or
Installing Shift Linkage Grommet

GEAR SHIFT LINKAGE

ADJUSTMENT—FLOOR MOUNTED

1.
Loosen
the
three shift linkage

adjustment nuts. Install
a 1/4
inch
di-

ameter alignment pin through the con-

trol bracket and lever alignment holes

shown
in Fig. 18.

2.
Tighten
the
three linkage adjust-

ment nuts
and
then remove
the
align-

ment
pin.

3.
Check
the
gear shift lever
for a

smooth crossover.

COLUMN-MOUNTED

SHIFT LINKAGE

GROMMET REMOVAL
AND

INSTALLATION

The column-mounted shift lever
as-
sembly incorporates
an oil
impregnat-

ed plastic grommet
in the
end
of
each

lever
arm. A
special tool T67P-

7341-A
is
required
to
install the grom-

met
in the
shift lever,
and to
install

the shift linkage
rod
into
the
grom-

met. Remove
and
install
the
grommet

as follows:

1.
Place
the
lower
jaw of the
tool

between
the
shift lever
and the
shift

rod.
Position
the
stop
pin
against
the

end
of the
shift
rod
(Fig.
4)
and force

the
rod out of the
grommet. Remove

the grommet from
the
shift lever
by

cutting
off the
large shoulder with
a

sharp knife. The groin met must
be re-

moved from
the
shift lever
and a new

one installed each rime
'he rod is
dis-

connected.

2.
Before installing
a
new grommet,
C 2090-A

adjust
the
stop
pin as
necessary
to

properly install
the
grommet and coat

the outside
of
the grommet with lubri-

cant. Then, place
the
grommet
on the

stop
pin and
force
it
into
the
shift

lever hole. Turn
the
grommeit several

times
to be
sure
it is
properly seated.

3.
Readjust
the
stop
pin to a
length

which
is
sufficient
to
install
the
shift

rod into
the
grommet
(Fig.
4).
If
the

pin height
is not
adjusted,
the
shift

rod
may be
pushed
too far
through

the grommet causing damage
to the

grommet retaining
lip.

4.
With
the pin
height properly
ad-

justed, position
the
shift
rod on the

tool
and
force
the rod
into
the
grom-

met until
the
groove
in the rod
seats

on
the
inner retaining
lip of
the grom-

met.

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

REMOVAL

1.
Raise
the
vehicle
on a
hoist.

2.
Mark
the
drive shaft
so
that
it

may
be
installed
in the
same relative

position. Disconnect
the
drive shaft

from
the
rear U-joint flange.

3.
Slide
the
front
of the
drive shaft
out
of the
transmission extension

housing
and off the
output shaft
In-

sert
the
tool shown
in (Fig. 2),
Part

6-1 into the extension housing
to
pre-

vent
the
lubricant from leaking
out of

the transmission.

4.
Remove
the cap
screw
and
lock

washer that secures
the
speedometer
cable retainer
to the
extension hous-

ing. Pull
the
speedometer cable
out of

the extension housing.

5.
On
vehicles equipped with
a

column-mounted gear shift selector,

remove
the
shift rods from
the
shift

levers
at
the transmission. On vehicles

equipped with
a
floor-mounted gearprocarmanuals.com

07-01-11
General Transmission Service

07-01-11

STOP
PIN

GROMMET

Tool - T67P-734LA

GROMMET

LEVER

CONTROL ROD REMOVAL
GROMMET INSTALLATION

Tool - T67P-734LA

r

CONTROL ROD INSTALLATION
3/16"-1/4'

CONTROL ROD

STOP
PIN

FIG. 18—Removing
or
Installing Shift Linkage Grommet
D 1742-A

MANUAL SHIFT LINKAGE

GROMMET REPLACEMENT-

COLUMN SHIFT

The manual lever assembly
on ve-

hicles equipped with
a
column shift
in-

corporates
an oil
impregnated plastic

grommet
in the end of the
lever
arm.

A special tool T67P-7341-A
is re-

quired
to
install
the
grommet
in the

manual lever,
and to
install
the
manu-

al linkage
rod
into
the
grommet.
Re-

move
and
install
the
grommet
as fol-

lows:

1.
Place
the
lower
jaw of the
tool

between
the
manual lever
and the con-

trol
rod.
Position
the
stop
pin
against
the
end of the
control
rod (Fig. 18)

and force
the rod out of the
grommet.

Remove
the
grommet from
the
manu-

al lever
by
cutting
off the
large shoul-

der with
a
sharp knife.
The
grommet

must
be
removed from
the
manual

lever
and a new one
installed each

time
the rod is
disconnected.

2.
Before installing
a
new grommet,

adjust
the
stop
pin to 1/2
inch
and

coat
the
outside
of the
grommet with

lubricant. Then, place
the
grommet
on

the stop
pin and
force
it
into
the
man-

ual lever hole. Turn
the
grommet
sev-

eral times
to be
sure
it is
properly

seated.

3.
Readjust
the
stop
pin to the
height shown
in Fig. 18. The pin

height
is
determined
by the
length
of

the
rod end
which
is to be
installed

into
the
grommet.
If the pin
height
is

not adjusted,
the
control
rod may be

pushed
too far
through
the
grommet

causing damage
to the
grommet
re-

taining
lip.

4.
With
the pin
height properly
ad-

justed, position
the
control
rod on the

tool
and
force
the rod
into
the
grom-

met until
the
groove
in the rod
seats

on
the
inner retaining
lip of the
grom-

met.
Be
sure
the rod
protrudes

through
the
grommet approximately

1/4 inch after installation.

CLEANING
AND
INSPECTION

CLEANING

TRANSMISSION

Clean
the
parts with suitable solvent

and
use
moisture-free
air to dry off all

the parts
and
clean
out oil
passages.

The composition clutch plates,

bands
and
synthetic seals should
not

be cleaned
in a
vapor degreaser
or
with
any
type
of
detergent solution.

To clean these parts, wipe them
off

with
a
lint-free cloth.
New
clutch

plates
or
bands should
be
soaked
in

transmission fluid
for
fifteen minutes

before
the
plates
or
bands
are as-

sembled.

CONVERTER

The converter cannot
be
disas-

sembled
for
cleaning.
If
there
is rea-
son
to
believe that
the
converter
con-

tains
an
excessive amount
of
foreign

material,
it
should
be
thoroughly

cleaned.
See the
instructions provided

with
the
Rotunda Automatic Trans-

mission Torque Converter
and
Cooler

Cleaner LRE-60081.

OIL COOLER

When
a
clutch
or
band failure
or

other internal trouble
has
occurred
inprocarmanuals.com

07-04-25

C-6 Automatic Transmission

07-04-25

FRONT

PUMPSEAL-7A24&
DRIVEN

GEAR-7C011

FIG. 42—Front Pump Disassembled
STATOR SUPPORT-7A109

SELECTIVE THRUST

WASHER

7D014

GASKET

7A136
SEAL

RINGS

7D429

D 1619-B

2.
Remove the pressure plate and

the drive and driven clutch plates (Fig.

45).

3.
Install Tool T65L-77515-A (Fig.

46) on the reverse-high clutch drum.

Make sure that the legs clear the

snap ring enough to permit expanding

it enough for removing it. Remove the

snap rings and remove the tool.

4.
Remove the spring retainer and

the piston return springs.

5.
Apply air pressure to the piston

apply hole in the clutch hub (Fig. 47)

and remove the piston.

6. Remove the piston outer seal

from the piston and the inner seal

from the clutch drum (Fig. 45).

7.
Remove the front and rear bush-

ings from the clutch drum if they are

worn or damaged. To remove the

front bushing, use a cape chisel and

cut along the bushing seam until the

chisel breaks through the bushing

wall. Pry the loose ends of the bushing

up with an awl and remove the bush-

ing.

To remove the rear bushing, use the

tool shown in Fig. 48, and press the

bushing from the drum.

Assembly

1.
If the clutch drum bushings were

removed, position the drum in a press

and press new bushings into the drum

with the tools shown in Figs. 48 or 49.

2.
Dip the new seals in transmission

fluid and install one on the drum and

one on the piston.

3.
Install the piston in the clutch

drum.

4.
Position the piston return springs

in the piston sockets. Place the spring

retainer on the springs.
5.
Install Tool T65L-77515-A (Fig.

46) and compress the springs. Make

certain that the spring retainer is cen-

tered while compressing the springs.

Install the snap ring. Before releasing

the pressure on the tool, make certain

that the snap ring is positioned inside

of the four snap ring guides on the

spring retainer.

6. Clutch plate usage varies with

each model, refer to the Specifications

Section for the number of plates re-

quired. Dip the clutch plates in clean

transmission fluid. Install the clutch

plates alternately starting with a steel

drive plate (Fig. 45).

7.
After all clutch plates have been

installed, position the pressure plate in

the clutch drum. Install the pressure

plate snap ring.

8. With a feeler gauge, check the

clearance between the pressure plate

and snap ring (Fig. 50).

9. The pressure plate should be held

downward as the clearance is checked.

Refer to the Specification Section for

the proper clearance. If the clearance

is not within specifications, selective

thickness snap rings are available in

the following thicknesses: 0.065-0.069,

0.074-0.078, and 0.083-0.087 inch. In-

stall the correct size snap ring and re-

check the clearance.

FORWARD CLUTCH

Disassembly

1.
Remove the clutch pressure plate

retaining snap ring (Fig. 51).

2.
Remove the rear pressure plate,

the drive and driven plates and the

forward pressure plate from the clutch

hub (Fig. 52).
3.
Remove the snap ring (Fig. 53)

that secures the disc spring in the

clutch cylinder. Remove the disc

spring.

4.
Apply air pressure to the clutch

apply passage in the cylinder (Fig. 54)

to remove the piston.

5.
Remove the seal from the piston

and the seal from the clutch hub (Fig.

52).

Assembly

1.
Dip two new seals in transmis-

sion fluid. Install the smaller seal on

the clutch hub and the other seal on

the clutch piston.

2.
Install the clutch piston in the

cylinder.

3.
Make sure that the steel pressure

ring is in the groove on the piston.

Position the disc spring in the cylinder

with the dished face downward. Install

the spring as shown in Fig. 56. Secure

the disc with the retaining snap ring.

4.
Install the forward pressure plate

with the flat side up and the beveled

side downward. Install first a compos-

ition driven plate and a steel drive

plate (Fig. 52). Install the remaining

plates in this sequence. Refer to the

Specification Section for the number

of plates required. The last plate in-

stalled will be the rear pressure plate.

Install the snap ring and make certain

that it seats fully in the groove.

5.
With a feeler gauge, check the

clearance between the snap ring and

the pressure plate (Fig. 55). Down-

ward pressure on the plate should be

maintained when making this check.

Refer to the Specifications Section for

the proper clearance.procarmanuals.com