air condition FORD MUSTANG 1969 Volume One Chassis

02-01-03
Brakes

02-01-03

vacuum system is operating, the pedal

will tend to fall away under foot pres-

sure and less pressure will be required

to hold the pedal in the applied posi-

tion. If no action is felt, the vacuum

booster system is not functioning.

If the brake pedal movement feels

spongy, bleed the hydraulic system to

remove air from the system. Refer to

Hydraulic System Bleeding, Part 1,

Section 2.

VACUUM TESTS—VACUUM

RELEASE PARKING BRAKES

Visually check the operation of the

brake linkage as the brake pedal is

depressed. Then, check the operation

of the brake linkage when the manual

release lever is activiated. These

checks should indicate whether the

manual parking brake control linkage

is operating properly or requires re-

pair or adjustment due to inability of

the parking brake to hold against

moderate vehicle movement. Perform

tests of the parking brake system and

controls after making certain the link-

age and manual controls operate

properly.

When testing a parking brake vacu-

um release system, a minimum of 10

inches of vacuum (Hg.) should be

available at all points where vacuum is

applied. This can be checked with a

Rotunda Fuel Pump Tester Gauge

(ARE345) and two Distributor Tester

hose adapters (Marked Q) connected

together with a coupling. This allows

the Fuel Pump Tester Gauge hose to
be adapted to any other vacuum hose

or rubber connector in the vacuum

systems.

Failure to maintain 10 inches of

vacuum (Hg.) during vacuum system

tests could be caused by a loose hose

connection, resulting in a vacuum

leak. When checking for vacuum be-

tween two points, trace the hose along

the entire routing to be sure it is not

crossed with another hose and con-

nected to the wrong connection.

All of the vacuum parking brake

control checks are to be performed

with the engine running at idle speed.

Leaks in the parking brake hoses or

a disconnected or improperly con-

nected hose can usually be found by

listening for a hissing sound along the

hose routings. Under no circumstances

should air pressure be applied to the

vacuum system as the actuator dia-

phragm in the parking brake vacuum

motor may be damaged.

1.
Start the engine and run it at

idle speed. With the transmission shift

control in neutral, depress the parking

brake pedal to apply the parking

brake. Move the transmission shift

control to D range and observe the

parking brake pedal to see that the

pedal moves upward and the parking

brake releases. If the parking brake

releases, the parking brake vacuum

control is working properly.

2.
If the parking brake does not re-

lease, test for vacuum at the steering

column neutral switch port in the

junction block, vacuum lines and the

parking brake release vacuum motor.

Use the Rotunda Vacuum and Fuel
Pump Tester 345. This can be accom-

plished by removing the hose from

each component and attaching it to

the vacuum gauge. Connect two dis-

tributor tester vacuum hose adapters

together with a coupling as a connec-

tor to attach the gauge. A minimum

of ten inches of vacuum is required to

actuate the parking brake vacuum

motor. Do not remove any of the vac-

uum hoses from the junction block

unless the junction block is being re-

placed, as the plastic nipples are thin

and very brittle and damage may re-

sult. If a minimum reading is not

present when checking each of the

aforementioned components, they

must be replaced.

ROAD TEST

A road test should be conducted

only when the operator is sure the

brakes will stop the vehicle.

If the road test reveals one or more

problem conditions, correct all mal-

functions of the vacuum system, brake

booster and hydraulic system prior to

removing brake drums, brake calipers,

brake shoes and linings or backing

plates.

ANTI-SKID CONTROL

SYSTEM TESTS

No adjustments or repairs are to be

performed on the skid control system.

Damaged or worn parts are to be re-

placed.

Refer to Ford Car and Truck Diag-

nosis Manual for Testing procedures.

COMMON ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS

PARKING BRAKE LINKAGE

ADJUSTMENT

FORD, MERCURY, METEOR,

FAIRLANE, MONTEGO,

FALCON, MUSTANG

AND COUGAR

Check the parking brake cables

when the brakes are fully released. If1

the cables are loose, adjust them as

follows:

1.
Fully release the parking brake

pedal by pulling the release lever.

2.
Depress the parking brake pedal

until it is engaged in the first notch of

the control. On a vacuum release

brake, the first notch will be approxi-

mately two inches of pedal travel.

3.
Raise the vehicle. With the

transmission in neutral, turn the ad-

justing nut forward against the equal-

izer (Figs. 3 and 4) until there is 100
L.H. REAR WHEEL CABLE -2A809> 2A791 (2 REQUIRED)

EQUALIZER-TO-ACTUATOR CABLE-2A815

R.H. REAR WHEEL CABLE-2A635

ADJUSTING NUT-2A812

H 1537-C

FIG. 3—Parking Brake Adjustment—Ford, Mercury, Meteor,

Thunderbird and Continental Mark IIIprocarmanuals.com

02-02-19
Brake System

02-02-19

that the tabs on the shoe flanges seat

fully against the caliper bridges (Fig.

25).

2.
Install the caliper splash shield

and secure the shield to the caliper

with two retaining bolts (Fig. 4).

3.
Pump the brake pedal several

times until a firm pedal is obtained

and the shoe and lining assemblies are

properly seated.

4.
Install the wheel and tire assem-

bly on the hub and rotor assembly.

5.
Check and refill the master cyl-

inder reservoir with specified brake

fluid as required.

6. Road test the car.

It should not be necessary to bleed

the system after a shoe and lining re-

placement.

FRONT WHEEL HUB AND

ROTOR ASSEMBLY-

DISC BRAKES

REMOVAL

1.
Remove the wheel and tire from

the hub (Figs. 23 and 24). Be careful

to avoid damage or interference with

the bleeder screw fitting. On Lincoln

Continental models be careful to avoid

damage to the caliper splash shield or

transfer tube.

2.
Remove the caliper assembly

from the spindle and the rotor. If the

caliper does not require servicing, it is

not necessary to disconnect the brake

hose or remove the caliper from the

vehicle. Position the caliper out of the

way, and support it with a wire to

avoid damaging the caliper or stretch-

ing the hose. Insert a clean cardboard

spacer between the linings to prevent

the piston from coming out of the cyl-

inder bore while the caliper is re-

moved.

Handle the rotor and caliper assem-

blies in such a way as to avoid defor-

mation of the rotor and nicking,

scratching or contamination of the

brake linings.

3.
Remove the grease cap from the

hub.
Remove the cotter pin, nut lock,

adjusting nut, and flat washer from

the spindle. Remove the outer bearing

cone and roller assembly.

4.
Remove the hub and rotor as-

sembly from the spindle.

INSTALLATION

1.
If the rotor is being replaced, re-

move the protective coating from the

new rotor with carburetor degreaser.

Pack a new set of bearings with speci-
fied grease (M-1C75B), and install the

inner bearing cone and roller assembly

in the inner cup. Pack grease lightly

between the lips of a new grease seal

and install the seal (Figs. 23 and 24).

If the original rotor is being in-

stalled, make sure that the grease in

the hub is clean and adequate, that

the inner bearing and grease seal are

lubricated and in good condition, and

that the rotor braking surfaces are

clean.

2.
Install the hub and rotor assem-

bly on the spindle.

3.
Lubricate and install the outer

wheel bearing, washer and adjusting

nut.

4.
Adjust the wheel bearings to

specification, and then install the nut

lock, cotter pin, and grease cap. The

wheel bearing adjustment is especially

important with disc brakes.

5. Mount the caliper assembly on

the spindle following the Disc Brake

Caliper Assembly Installation proce-

dure in this section.

DISC BRAKE ROTOR

SPLASH SHIELD

REMOVAL

1.
Remove the caliper and the hub

and rotor assembly as outlined under
Removal in the foregoing procedure

(it is not necessary to disconnect hy-

draulic connections).

2.
Remove the three bolts that at-

tach the splash shield to the spindle,

and remove the shield (Figs. 23 and

24).

3.
Remove and discard the splash

shield to spindle gasket.

INSTALLATION

1.
Install a new splash shield to

spindle gasket.

2.
If the shield is bent, straighten it

out before installation. Position the

shield to the mounting bracket, install

the attaching bolts, nuts and torque

them to specification.

3.
Install the hub and rotor assem-

bly and the caliper as outlined under

Installation in the foregoing proce-

dure.

DUAL MASTER CYLINDER—

NON POWER BRAKES

FORD, MERCURY

AND METEOR

Removal

Refer to Fig. 26.

BUSHING

HAIRPIN

RETAINER

BUSHING

STOPLIGHT SWITCH

13480
HI 637-A

FIG. 26—Dual Master Cylinder Installation— Non Power Brakes

Ford,
Mercury, and Meteorprocarmanuals.com

02-02-21
Brake System

02-02-21

INSTALLATION

CLUTCH ASSIST

SPRING

MASTER CYLINDER

2140

FIG. 28 —Dual Master Cylinder Installation—

Non Power Brake—Mustang and Cougar

inch of the top of the dual reservoirs.

Use Ford Brake Fluid- Extra Heavy

Duty-Part Number C6AZ-19542-A

for all brake applications. The brake

fluid is colored blue for identification.

Do not mix low temperature brake

fluids with the specified fluid for the

brake system.

8. Bleed the dual-master cylinder

and the primary and secondary brake

systems. Centralize the pressure dif-

ferential valve. Refer to Hydraulic

System Bleeding and Centralizing of

the Differential Valve, Part 2-1, Sec-

tion 2 for the proper procedure.

9. Operate the brakes several times,

then check for external hydraulic

leaks.

DUAL MASTER CYLINDER-

POWER BRAKES

REMOVAL

1.
Remove the brake tubes from

the primary and secondary outlet

ports of the master cylinder (Figs. 29

thru 33).

2.
Remove the two nuts and two

lock washers attaching the master cyl-

inder to the brake booster assembly.

3.
Slide the master cylinder forward

and upward from the vehicle.
SHAFT

AUTOMATIC

TRANSMISSION

CLUTCH PEDAL

BUMPER STOP
H1638-A
1.
Before installing the mater cyl-

inder, check the distance t; m the

outer end of the booster ass;. ,ihi\

push rod to the master .>',nder

mounting surface. Turn the nu->h rod

adjusting screw in or out as required

to obtain the specified length. Refer to

Part 2-1, Section 2. Power Brake

Master Cylinder Push Rod Adjust-

ment for the proper procedure.

2.
Position the master cylinder as-

sembly over the booster push rod and

onto the two studs on the booster as-

sembly (Figs. 29 thru 37).

3.
Install the attaching nuts and

lock washers and torque them to spec-

ifications.

4.
Install the front and rear brake

tubes to the master cylinder outlet fit-

tings.

5.
Fill the master cylinder with the

specified brake fluid to within 1/4

inch of the top o\ the dual reservoirs.

Use Ford Brake Fluid Fxtra Heavy

Duty Part Number C6AZ-19542-A

(ESA-M6C25-A) for all brake appli-

cations. The extra htaw duty brake

fluid is colored blue for identification.

Do not mix low temperature brake

fluids with the specified fluids for the

disc brake svstem.

CLIP

W
'0 AIR CONDITIONING

BUSHING

SHAFT

BUSHING

BRAKE PEDAL

SPACER

H 1642-A

FIG. 29—Master Cylinder Installation-

Ford,
Mercury and Meteor
-Power Brake-procarmanuals.com

02-02-39
Brake System

02-02-39

MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS

BRAKE DRUM REFINISHING

Minor scores on a brake drum can

be removed with sandpaper. A drum

that is excessively scored or shows a

total indicator runout of over 0.007

inch should be turned down. Remove

only enough stock to eliminate the

scores and true up the drum. The refi-

nished diameter must not exceed 0.060

inch oversize.

Check the inside diameter of the

brake drum with a brake drum mi-

crometer (Tool FRE-14^1).

If the drum diameter is less than

0.030 inch oversize after refinishing^

standard lining may be installed. If

the drum diameter is 0.030—0.060

inch oversize after refinishing, oversize

lining must be installed.

After a drum is turned down, wipe

the refinished surface with a cloth

soaked in clean denatured alcohol. If

one drum is turned down, the opposite

drum on the same axle should also be

cut down to the same size.

ROTOR REFINISHING

Rotunda Disc Brake Attachment,

FRE-2249-2, is the only recommended

tool to refinish the disc brake rotors.

The step-by-step resurfacing procedure

provided with the tool must be ad-

hered to.

The finished braking surfaces of the

rotor must be flat and parallel within

0.0007 inch; lateral runout must not

exceed 0.003 inch total indicator read-

ing, and the surface finish of the brak-

ing surfaces are to be 80/15 micro

inches. The minimum limiting dimen-

sions (Figs. 11 and 12, Part 2-1) from

the inboard bearing cup to the out-

board rotor face and from the inboard

bearing cup to the inboard rotor face

must be observed when removing ma-

terial from the rotor braking surfaces.

On all models except Lincoln Con-

tinental, the limiting dimensions are to

be measured with a ball and gage bar

(Rotunda Kit FRE-70160).

BRAKE SHOE RELINING

Brake linings that are worn to with-

in 1/32 inch of the rivet head or are

less than 0.030 inch thick (bonded lin-

ing) or have been contaminated with

brake fluid, grease or oil must be re-

placed. Failure to replace worn linings

will result in a scored drum. When it
is necessary to replace linings, they

must also be replaced on the wheel on

the opposite side of the vehicle.

Inspect brake shoes for distortion,

cracks, or looseness. If this condition

exists,
the shoe must be discarded. Do

not attempt to repair a defective brake

shoe.

1.
Wash the brake shoes thoroughly

in a clean solvent. Remove all burrs

or rough spots from the shoes.

2.
Check the inside diameter of the

brake drum with a brake drum mi-

crometer (tool FRE-1431). If the di-

ameter is less than 0.030 inches over-

size,
standard lining may be installed.

If the diameter is 0.030—0.060 inches

oversize, oversize lining should be in-

stalled.

3.
Position the new lining on the

shoe.
Starting in the center, insert and

secure the rivets, working alternately

towards each end. Replacement lin-

ings are ground and no further grind-

ing is required.

4.
Check the clearance between the

shoe and lining. The lining must seat

tightly against the shoe with not more

than 0.008 inch clearance between any

two rivets.

RETAINER - 2B245
DUAL MASTER CYLINDER

DISASSEMBLY

1.
Clean the outside of the master

cylinder and remove the filler cover

and diaphragm. Pour out any brake

fluid that remains in the cylinder. Dis-

card the old brake fluid.

2.*
Remove the secondary piston

stop bolt from the bottom of the cyl-

inder (Figs. 40 and 41).

3.
Remove the bleed screw, iL re-

quired.

4.
Depress the primary piston and

remove the snap ring from the retain-

ing groove at the rear of the master

cylinder bore (Fig. 42). Remove the

push rod and the primary piston as-

sembly from the master cylinder bore.

Do not remove the screw that retains

the primary return spring retainer, re-

turn spring, primary cup and protec-

tor on the primary piston. This assem-

bly is factory pre-adjusted and should

not be disassembled.

5.
Remove the secondary piston as-

sembly. Do not remove the outlet tube

seats,
outlet check valves and outlet

SECONDARY SYSTEM

BRAKE OUTLET
COVER -2166

GASKET-2167

MASTER CYLINDER -2155

SNAP RING -7821

BOOT

PUSH ROD

PRIMARY PISTON

ASSEMBLY - 2169

tTUBE SEAT-

2B220
* SECONDARY PISTON

ASSEMBLY - 2A502

• NOT USED ON POWER BRAKE EQUIPPED VEHICLES

fNOT SERVICED

•REPLACE AS AN ASSEMBLY ONLY

H 1499-B

FIG. 40— Dual Master Cylinder Disassembled—Except Disc Brakesprocarmanuals.com

02-02-42
Brake System

02-02-42

CALIPER
ABUTMENTS

OUTBOARD
CALIPER HOUSING

DUST
BOOT RETAINING GROOVE

DUST
BOOT (4)
PISTON
SEAL (4)

EXTERNAL

TRANSFER
TUBE

SCREW

INBOARD
CALIPER HOUSING

FLEXIBLE
HOSE-^
H1367-C

FIG. 46—Caliper Assembly — Disassembled—Lincoln Continental

9. Remove the rubber piston seals

from the grooves in the cylinder bores

by carefully inserting the point of a

small knife or other pointed instru-

ment under the seal and raising the

seal up far enough to be pulled out

with the fingers.

Cleaning and Inspection

Clean all metal parts with isopropyl

alcohol or a suitable solvent (Fig. 46).

Use clean, dry, compressed air to

clean out and dry the grooves and

passage ways. Be sure that the caliper
bore and component parts are com-

pletely free of any foreign material.

Check the cylinder bores and pis-

tons for damage or excessive wear.

Replace the piston if it is pitted,

scored, or the chrome plating is worn

off. Check the caliper dust boot re-

tainer for wear or damage.

Assembly

1.
Clamp the caliper in a vise and

secure it by the mounting flange on

the inboard housing.

2.
Apply a film of clean brake fluid
to new caliper piston seals and install

them in the grooves of the cylinder

bore.
The seal should be positioned at

one area in the groove and gently

worked around. Do not use the origi-

nal seals.

3.
Install the new dust boots by set-

ting the flanges squarely in the outer

grooves of the caliper bores.

4.
Coat the pistons with the speci-

fied fluid and install the pistons inPthe

cylinder bores. Spread the dust boots

over the pistons as they are installed.

Seat the dust boots in the piston

grooves.

5.
Coat the outside diameter of the

pistons with brake fluid and install

them in the cylinder bores so that the

open end of the piston and ihe boot

retaining groove face out of the bore.

To avoid cocking, locate the piston

squarely in the bore and apply a slow

steady pressure. If a piston will not

easily go all the way into the bore, re-

move it and thoroughly inspect the

cylinder bore, the piston seal and the

installation of the seal. If the piston

still will not go in with bore in good

condition and the piston seal properly

installed, use the tool shown in Fig.

45.
Rotate the piston with the tool

while pushing it inward at the same

time.

6. Carefully install four new dust

boots on the caliper housings and pis-

tons.
Be sure that each boot is fully

seated in the groove of its respective

caliper housing and piston (Fig. 46).

Do not use the original dust boots.

7.
Install the external transfer tube.

8. Install the flexible brake hose to

the caliper.

9. Install the caliper assembly on

the spindle, and install the shoe and

lining assemblies and the splash shield

as outlined in Section 2. Check the

caliper for fluid leaks under maximum

pedal pressures. Do not move the car

until a firm brake pedal is obtained.procarmanuals.com

03-01-02
Suspension — Steering, Wheels And Tires — General Service

03-01-02

1 TESTING

POWER STEERING-

PRELIMINARY TESTS

The following preliminary checks

should always be made before per-

forming any operations.

AIR BLEEDING

Air in the power steering system

(shown by bubbles in the fluid) should

be bled. After making sure that the

reservoir is filled to specification (the

fluid must be at normal operating

temperature when the check is made),

turn the steering wheel through its full

travel three or four times. Do not hold

the wheels against their stops. Re-

check the fluid level.

CHECK FLUID LEVEL

Run the engine until the fluid is at

normal operating temperature. Then

turn the steering wheel all the way to

the left and right several times, and

shut off the engine.

Check the fluid level in the power

steering reservoir. The level must show

on the cross hatching between the bot-

tom of the dipstick and the full mark

(Fig. 1). If the level is low, add

enough automatic transmission fluid

C1AZ-19582-A to raise the level to

the F mark on the dipstick. Do not

overfill the reservoir.

CHECK PUMP BELT

If the pump belt is broken, glazed,

or worn, replace it with a new belt.

Use only the specified type of belt.

Refer to Part 3-13 for belt adjustment

procedure.

CHECK FOR FLUID

LEAKS

With the engine idling, turn the

steering wheel from stop to stop sever-

al times. Check all possible leakage

points. Tighten all loose fittings, and

replace any damaged lines or defective

seats.

CHECK TURNING EFFORT

With the front wheels properly al-

igned and tire pressures correct, check

the effort required to turn the steering

wheel.
G 1508- A

FIG.
1—Power
Steering Pump

Dipstick

1.
With the vehicle on dry concrete,

set the parking brakes.

2.
With the engine warmed up and

running at idle speed, turn the steering

wheel to the left and right several

times to warm the fluid.

3.
Attach a pull scale to the rim of

the steering wheel. Measure the pull

required to turn the wheel one com-

plete revolution in each direction. The

effort required to rotate the steering

wheel should not exceed specifications

given in Part 3-13.

POWER STEERING PUMP FLOW

AND PRESSURE TESTS—

EXCEPT LINCOLN CONTINENTAL

AND CONTINENTAL MARK III

The power steering flow and pres-

sure tests will show whether the pump,

steering gear or power assist control

RETURN LINE

POWER

STEERING PUMP

Sr
valve is causing the trouble. Steps out-

lined below should be followed to de-

termine the cause of the trouble.

PUMP FLOW TEST

1.
Depending on the equipment

present on the vehicle (air condition-

ing, power brakes, standard transmis-

sion),
one of the following options

may be used to connect the pump

pressure and return hoses to the test

tool (T56L-3361O-D and T68L-

33610-A):

a. Disconnect the pressure and re-

turn lines at the power steering pump

(Fig. 2). Obtain a power steering re-

turn hose from stock and connect the

end with the fitting to the output fit-

ting of the tool using the
5/8-18
SAE

female, 1/4 N.P. thread male fitting

provided. The end of the stock hose

(without the fitting) should be con-

nected to the return tube of the pump.

Connect the pressure hose from the

tool to the outlet fitting of the pump.

b.
Disconnect the pressure line at

the pump and connect the pressure

line from the test tool to the outlet fit-

ting of the pump. Disconnect the re-

turn line at the gear and connect it to

the output fitting of the tool, using the

5/8-18
SAE female, 1/4 N.P. thread

male fitting provided.

2.
After installing the lines by the

most advantageous method, proceed

as follows:

3.
Open the manual valves A and B

fully (Fig. 2).

CALIBRATED FLOW

DETERMINING ORIFICE

PRESSURE LINE

FIG. 2—Power Steering Pump Test Circuit Diagram
PRESSURE GAGE

G1611-Aprocarmanuals.com

03-01-05
Suspension — Steering, Wheels And Tires — General Service

03-01-05

type of equipment is used, follow the

installation and inspection instructions

provided by the equipment manufactu-

rer.

CASTER

Check the caster angle at each front

wheel.

The caster is the forward or rear-

ward tilt of the top of the wheel

spindle (Fig. 12). If the spindle tilts to

the rear, caster is positive. If the

spindle tilts to the front, caster is neg-

ative. The correct caster angle, or tilt,

is specified in Part 3-13.

On Mustang, Cougar, Fairlane,

Falcon and Montego vehicles, the

maximum caster difference for check-

ing purposes must not exceed one de-

gree.
If setting is necessary, then the

maximum difference must not exceed

1/2 degree. On all other vehicles, the

maximum caster difference must never

exceed 1/2 degree.

CAMBER

Check the camber angle at each

front wheel.

Camber is the amount the front

wheels are tilted at the top (Fig. 12).

If a wheel tilts outward, camber is

positive. If a wheel tilts inward, cam-

ber is negative. The correct camber

angle, or outward (positive) tilt is

specified in Part 3-13.

On Mustang, Cougar, Fairlane,

Falcon and Montego vehicles, the

maximum camber difference for

checking purposes must not exceed

one degree. If setting is necessary,
then the maximum difference must

not exceed 1/2 degree. On all other

vehicles, the maximum camber differ-

ence must never exceed 1/2 degree.

TOE-IN

Alignment height spacers should not

be used to check and adjust toe-in.

Toe-in should only be checked and ad-

justed after the caster and camber

have been adjusted to specifications.

Check the toe-in with the front

wheels in the straight-ahead position.

Run the engine so that the power

steering control valve will be in the

center (neutral) position (if so

equipped). Measure the distance be-

tween the extreme front and also be-

tween the extreme rear of both front

wheels. The difference between these

two distances is the toe-in or toe-out.

Correct toe-in, or inward pointing

of both front wheels at the front is

specified in Part 3-13.

FRONT WHEEL

TURNING ANGLE

When the inside wheel is turned 20

degrees, the turning angle of the out-

side wheel should be as specified in

Part 3-13. The turning angle cannot

be adjusted directly, because it is a re-

sult of the combination of caster,

camber, and toe-in adjustments and

should, therefore, be measured only

after these adjustments have been

made. If the turning angle does not

measure to specifications, check the

spindle or other suspension parts for a

bent condition.
ALIGNMENT
MARKS

G-1496-A

FIG. I?—Straight Ahead Position

Marks—Typical

POSITIVE

CAMBER

• •
NEGATIVE-*!
| ^*—

CASTER

ICL
OF TIRE
POSITIVE

CASTER

5r\

CA&U

ANGlE
F1216-A

FIG. 72—Caster and Camber

Angles

COMMON ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS

After front wheel alignment factors

have been checked, make the neces-

sary adjustments. Do not attempt to

adjust front wheel alignment by bend-

ing the suspension or steering parts.

CASTER AND CAMBER

ADJUSTMENTS

FORD, MERCURY, METEOR,

THUNDERBIRDAND

CONTINENTAL MARK III

Caster and camber is adjusted by

loosening the bolts that attach the

upper suspension arm inner shaft to

the frame side rail, and moving the

inner shaft in or out in the elongated

bolt holes with the tool shown in Fig.
13.
The tool should be installed with

the tool pins in the frame holes and

the hooks over the upper arm inner

shaft. Then, tighten the tool hook nuts

snug before loosening the upper arm

inner shaft attaching bolts.

Caster

To adjust the caster angle, tighten

the tool front hook nut or loosen the

rear hook nut (Fig. 14) as required to

increase caster to the desired angle.

To decrease caster, tighten the tool

rear hook nut or loosen the front

hook nut as required (Fig. 14). The

caster angle can be checked without

tightening the inner shaft attaching

bolts.
Check the camber adjustment to

be sure it did not change during the

caster adjustment and adjust if neces-
FIG. 73—Camber and Caster

Adjusting Toolprocarmanuals.com

03-01-08
Suspension
—
Steering,
Wheels
And
Tires
—
General Service

03-01-08

3.
Remove the lower (upper on

Mustang and Cougar) cover- to-

housing attaching bolt.

4.
With a clean punch or like in-

strument, clean out or push inward

the loose lubricant in the filler plug

hole and cover to housing attaching

bolt hole.
5.
Slowly turn the steering wheel to

the left stop, lubricant should rise

within the lower cover bolt hole; then

slowly turn the steering wheel to the

right stop, lubricant should rise within

the filler plug hole. If lubricant does

not rise in both the cover bolt hole
and the filler plug hole, add lubricant

until it comes out both holes during

this check.

6. Install the lower (upper on

Mustang and Cougar) cover- to-

housing attaching bolt and the filler

plug.

CLEANING
AND
INSPECTION

FRONT
END
GENERAL

INSPECTION

Do not check and adjust front

wheel alignment without first making

the following inspection for front-end

damage, or wear.

1.
Check for specified air pressures

in all four tires.

2.
Raise the front of the vehicle off

the floor. Shake each front wheel

grasping the upper and lower surfaces

of the tire. Check the front suspension

ball joints and mountings for loose-

ness,
wear, and damage. Check the

brake backing plate mountings. Tor-

que all loose nuts and bolts to specifi-

cation. Replace all worn parts as out-

lined in Part 3-2.

3.
Check the steering gear mount-

ings and all steering linkage connec-

tions for looseness. Torque all mount-

ings to specifications. If any of the

linkage is worn or bent, replace the

parts as outlined in Part 3-5.

4.
Check the front wheel bearings.

If any in-and-out free play is noticed,

adjust the bearings to specifications.

Replace worn or damaged bearings as

outlined in Part 3-12.

5.
Spin each front wheel with a

wheel spinner, and check and balance

each wheel as required.

6. Check the action of the shock

absorbers. If the shock absorbers are

not in good condition, the vehicle may

not settle in a normal, level position,

and front wheel alignment may be af-

fected.

WHEEL INSPECTION

Wheel hub nuts should be inspected

and tightened to specification at pre-

delivery. Loose wheel hub nuts may

cause shimmy and vibration. Elongat-

ed stud holes in the wheels may also

result from loose hub nuts.

Keep the wheels and hubs clean.

Stones wedged between the wheel and

drum and lumps of mud or grease can

unbalance a wheel and tire.
Check for damage that would affect

the runout of the wheels. Wobble or

shimmy caused by a damaged wheel

will eventually damage the wheel bear-

ings.
Inspect the wheel rims for dents

that could permit air to leak from the

tires.

UPPER BALL JOINT

INSPECTION

Ford,
Mercury,
Meteor,

Thunderbird,

Lincoln Continental
and

Continental Mark
III

1.
Raise the vehicle and place floor

jacks beneath the lower arms.

2.
Ask an assistant to grasp the

lower edge of the tire and move the

wheel in and out.

3.
As the wheel is being moved in

and out, observe the upper end of the

spindle and the upper arm.

4.
Any movement between the

upper end of the spindle and the upper

arm indicates ball joint wear and loss

of preload. If any such movement is

observed, replace the upper ball joint.

During
the
foregoing
check,
the

lower ball joint will
be
unloaded
and

may
move.
Disregard
all
such
move-

ment
of the
lower ball
joint.
Also,
do

not mistake loose wheel bearings
for a

worn ball
joint.

Cougar,
Fairlane,
Falcon,

Montego
and
Mustang

1.
Raise the vehicle on a frame

contact hoist or by floor jacks placed

beneath the underbody until the wheel

falls to the full down position as

shown in Fig. 18. This will unload the

upper ball joint.

2.
Adjust the wheel bearings as de-

scribed in Part 3-12.

3.
Attach a dial indicator to the

upper arm and position the indicator
so that the plunger rests against the

inner side of the wheel rim adjacent to

the upper arm ball joint.

4.
Grasp the tire at the top and

bottom, and slowly move the tire in

and out (Fig. 18). Note the reading

(radial play) on the dial indicator. If

MAXIMUM TOLERANCE

F
1500-A

FIG.
T8—Measuring Upper Ball

Joint Radial Play

MAXIMUM TOLERANCE

F14
35-A

FIG.
79—Measuring Lower Ball

Joint Radial Playprocarmanuals.com

03-01-10
Suspension — Steering, Wheels And Tires — General Service

03-01-10

The following procedure should be

followed when cleaning the relief valve

which is a part of the pump valve as-

sembly.

1.
Using a punch or rod of suitable

diameter, apply an even pressure in a

straight line to the tip of the relief

valve pin (Fig. 20). Depress the valve

two or three times to exhaust the oil

which is trapped in the assembly. Do

not hammer on the valve pin or hous-

ing.

2.
Submerge the assembly in a con-

tainer of clean solvent. Again applying

an even pressure to the tip of the relief

valve pin, (a sudden strong force could

push the pin through the relief valve

spool) move the valve in and out sev-

eral times, thereby thoroughly flushing

the assembly. Pressure created within

the valve bore when the valve is moved

inward should force the cleaning fluid

out through the sensing orifice. If this

does not occur, the sensing orifice

should be cleaned with a piece of wire.

The valve must move freely and even-

ly. If the pin is bent or damaged, or if

the valve binds, the pump valve must

be replaced.

INSPECTION

The following describes the compo-

nents of the power steering pump

which must be replaced regardless of

condition and how to determine when

other components should be replaced.

The outlet fitting hex nut may be

reused if the corners of the hex are

not rounded. The housing bolts may

be reused if the threads are not dam-

aged.

All gaskets and seals must be re-

placed with new components except

the rotor shaft seal which should be

reused unless it was leaking.

The reservoir assembly may be

reused if the reservoir seal and gasket

areas are not damaged (dents, scratch-

es,
etc.). The soldered joints of the re-

turn and fill tubes must not be loose

or bent. Be sure to check for a broken

baffle.

The housing or housing assembly

may be reused if there is no damage

(scratches, etc.) at reservoir gasket,

outlet fitting or cover seal areas.

If the outlet fitting is damaged, the

pump housing must be replaced. The

pressure plate springs may be reused

providing they are not bent, broken or

have not taken a set.

Do not reuse the retainer end plate

if it is burred or damaged. The upper

pressure plate may be reused if there

is no scoring on the wear surface. It is

acceptable to polish the phosphate

coating.
The rotor and cam assembly can be

reused if there is no wear other than

the removal of the phosphate coating

on the cam contour. Do not disas-

semble the rotor and cam assembly.

Push the rotor part way out the cam

insert taking care not to let the slip-

pers and springs fall out. Check the

cam ID for scoring and burning.

Check the rotor faces and OD for

scoring and chipping. Do not attempt

to repair or refinish the lower and

upper pressure plates, cam or rotor

assembly. When wear or burning is

encountered, replace, them with new

components.

Install a new rotor and cam assem-

bly if the slippers are worn. Replace

the springs if they are bent or broken.

Polishing the phosphate coating of the

slipper sealing surface is permissable.

The rotor shaft can be reused if the

front and rear thrust faces, the bush-

ing diameter and the shaft seal diame-

ter are not excessively worn or scored.

The housing plate and bushing as-

sembly may be reused if all of the

threaded holes are not damaged

beyond repair and the bushing diame-

ter is not scored or worn .0005 inch

over the maximum dimension of .6897

inch. Threaded holes can be repaired

by drilling out the damaged threads

and installing a helicoil insert. If the

bushing is scored or excessively worn,

a new plate and bushing assembly

must be installed.

With Tool T69P-3D608-A (using a

dial indicator) check the squareness of

the fixed dowel pin in the plate (Fig.

21).
The pin must be square with the

adjacent surface within .001 inch per

inch through a 180 degree arch.

A bent or broken dowel pin can be

replaced as follows:
1.
Hold the plate assembly in a

horizontal position and grip at least

an inch of the dowel pin in a vise. Tap

the plate with a plastic or a rubber

hammer to pull the pin from the

plate.

2.
Insert the support guide (Tool

T69P-3D608-B) over a dowel pin (Fig.

22) and press the pin into the plate to

a height of 1.68 inch (See Fig. 23).

The support guide tool will serve as a

stop guide. Be careful not to bend the

new dowel pin during installation.

3.
Again use Tool T69P-3D608-A

(with a dial indicaator) to check the

dowel pin squareness as outlined

above.

POWER STEERING PUMP

INSPECTION—LINCOLN

CONTINENTAL AND

CONTINENTAL MARK III

1.
Wash all parts in clean solvent

and dry them with clean cloths or

compressed air.

2.
Inspect the rotor shaft for wear,

scoring, nicks, or burrs. Replace the

shaft if it is damaged or if the inner

keyway is damaged.

Tool
T69P-3D608-B

G1609-A

FIG. 22—Dowel Pin Insertion

Tool
T69P-3D608-A

G1608-A

FIG. 21—Dowel Pin Squareness

Check
FIG. 23 — Replacing Dowel Pinprocarmanuals.com

03-01-11
Suspension — Steering, Wheels And Tires — General Service

03-01-11

3.
Inspect the rotor, rollers, cam

ring, pressure plate, cover, and bush-

ing in the pressure plate for wear or

scoring. If damaged, replacement of

the pump (less housing) is required.

4.
Make sure the inner faces of the

cover and the housing are free of

paint, nicks, or burrs. Check all fluid

passages for restrictions.

5.
Inspect the valving surfaces

(areas where the rotor and rollers con-

tact) for wear or scoring. Replace the

pressure plate or the cover if worn or

scored. Inspect the bushing in the

pressure plate for wear or scoring, and

replace the plate if necessary.

6. Inspect the control valve for

scores, nicks, or burred edges. Re-

place the valve if damaged. Do not dis-

assemble the valve. Check the valve

for free movement in the housing

bore.

7.
Inspect the tube seat in the hous-

ing. If damaged, remove it with an

E-Z-Out and install a new seat.

SHOCK ABSORBER CHECKS

All vehicles are equipped with hy-

draulic shock absorbers of the direct-

acting type and are nonadjustable and

nonrefillable. They cannot be repaired.
Before replacing a shock absorber,

check the action of the shock absor-

bers as follows:

ON VEHICLE TESTS

1.
Check the shock absorber to be

sure it is securely and properly in-

stalled. Check the shock absorber in-

sulators for damage and wear.

Replace any defective insulators and

tighten attachments to the specified

torque (on a shock absorber which in-

corporates integral insulators, replace

the shock absorbers).

2.
Inspect the shock absorber for

evidence of fluid leakage. A light film

of fluid is permissible. Be sure any

fluid observed is not from sources

other than the shock absorber.

Replace the shock absorber if leak-

age is severe.

3.
Disconnect the lower end of the

shock absorber. Extend and compress

the shock absorber as fast as possible,

using as much travel as possible.

Action should become smooth and

uniform throughout each stroke.

Higher resistance on extension than

on compression is a normal condition.

Faint swish noises are also normal.

Remove the shock absorber for a

bench test if action is erratic. If the
action is smooth, but the shock absor-

bers are suspected of being weak fol-

low step 4:

4.
Repeat step 3 on the mating

shock absorber installed on the oppo-

site side of the vehicle, and compare

results of both tests. If the action is

similar, it is unlikely that either shock

absorber is defective. Reconnect both

shock absorbers.

Replace the shock absorber having

the lower resistance. Ensure that the

part number of the replacement is the

same as that of the original shock ab-

sorber. The replacement shock absor-

ber resistance will appear to be higher

than either original due to initial fric-

tion of the rod seal.

BENCH TEST

With the shock absorber right side

up (as installed in vehicle), extend it

fully. Then turn the shock absorber

upside down and fully compress it.

Repeat this procedure at least three

times to ensure that any entrapped air

has been expelled. Now place the

shock absorber right side up in a vise,

and hand stroke the shock absorber as

described in On Vehicle Tests, step 3.

If action is not now smooth and uni-

form, install a new shock absorber.procarmanuals.com