tires OPEL FRONTERA 1998 Owner's Manual

SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM9J–19
NOTE: Ensure that the pigtail adapter is firmly seated into
the air bag assembly connector. Failure to fully seat the
connectors may leave the shorting bar located in the air
bag assembly connector functioning (shorting the
deployment circuit) and may result in non deployment of
the air bag assembly.
827RW054
3. Put a tire without wheel on another, put the tire on
which the air bag is fixing, put a tire without a
wheel, and finally put a tire with a wheel on top.
Bind the tires with a rope so that the tires pile may
not collapse.
827RW050
Legend
(A) 10 m (33 feet) or more
9. Notify all people in the immediate area of your
intention to deploy the passenger air bag assembly.
The deployment will be accompanied by a substantial
noise which may startle the uninformed.
WARNING: DEPLOYED HARNESS SHALL REMAIN
SHORTED AND NOT BE CONNECTED TO A POWER
SOURCE UNTIL THE AIR BAG IS TO BE DEPLOYED.THE AIR BAG ASSEMBLY WILL IMMEDIATELY
DEPLOY THE AIR BAG WHEN A CONNECTING THE
DEPLOYMENT HARNESS TO THE POWER SOURCE
SHOULD ALWAYS BE THE LAST STEP IN THE AIR
BAG ASSEMBLY DEPLOYMENT PROCEDURE.
FAILURE TO FOLLOW PROCEDURES IN THE
ORDER LISTED MAY RESULT IN PERSONAL
INJURY.
10. Connect the Supplemental Restraint System (SRS)
deployment harness wires to the power source to
immediately deploy the air bag assembly.
Recommended application : 12 volts minimum, 2
amps minimum. A vehicle battery is suggested.
827LW011
WARNING: SAFETY PRECAUTIONS MUST BE
OBSERVED WHEN HANDING A DEPLOYED AIR BAG
ASSEMBLY. AFTER DEPLOYMENT, THE METAL
SURFACES OF THE AIR BAG ASSEMBLY WILL BE
VERY HOT. ALLOW THE AIR BAG ASSEMBLY TO
COOL BEFORE HANDLING ANY METAL PORTION
OF IT. DO NOT PLACE THE DEPLOYED INFLATOR
MODULE NEAR ANY FLAMMABLE OBJECTS.
FAILURE TO FOLLOW PROCEDURES MAY RESULT
I N F IR E O R PE RSO NAL IN JU RY. A FT ER A N A IR BAG
ASSEMBLY HAS BEEN DEPLOYED, THE METAL
CANISTER AND SURROUNDING AREAS OF THE AIR
BAG ASSEMBLY WILL BE HOT. DO NOT TOUCH THE
METAL AREAS OF THE AIR BAG ASSEMBLY FOR
ABOUT THIRTY MINUTES AFTER DEPLOYMENT. IF
THE DEPLOYED AIR BAG ASSEMBLY MUST BE
MOVED BEFORE IT IS COOL, WEAR GLOVES AND
HANDLE BY THE AIR BAG IT SELF.
11. Disconnect the pigtail adapter from the air bag
assembly as soon after deployment as possible to
avoid damage to the pigtail adapter or SRS
deployment harness from contacting the hot air bag
assembly canister. The pigtail adapter and SRS
deployment harness are designed to be reused. They
should, however, be inspected for damage after each
deployment and replaced if necessary.
12. Dispose of the deployed air bag assembly through
normal refuse channels after it has cooled for at least
30 minutes.

SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM 9J–38
6. Apply a setting mark across the steering wheel and
shaft so parts can be reassembled in their original
position.
430RS004
7. Move the tires to the straight ahead position before
removing the steering wheel. Install steering wheel
puller onto steering wheel and remove steering wheel
with 5–8521–0016–0.
430RT009
8. Feed wiring through the wheel and remove wheel.
CAUTION: Never apply force to the steering wheel
in direction of the shaft by using a hammer or other
impact tools in an attempt to remove the steering
wheel. The steering shaft is designed as an energy
absorbing unit.
Installation
1. Install the steering wheel and align the setting marks.
430RS004
2. Tighten the steering wheel fixing nut to the specified
torque.
Torque : 34 Nꞏm (3.5 Kgꞏm/25 Ib ft)
3. Connect horn lead.
4. Connect air bag to wiring harness connector.
NOTE: Pass the lead wire through the tabs on the plastic
cover (wire protector) of air bag to prevent lead wire from
being pinched.
827RT009

SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM 9J–40
3. Disconnect the yellow 2–pin connector located
behind the air bag assembly and remove air bag
assembly.Refer to “SRS Connectors” in this section
for removal and installation.
4. Disconnect horn lead connector.
827RT009
5. Remove the steering wheel attachment nut.
6. Apply a setting mark across the steering wheel and
shaft so parts can be reassembled in their original
position.
430RS004
7. Move the tires to the straight ahead position before
removing the steering wheel and remove wheel with
5–8521–0016–0.
430RT009
8. Feed wiring though the wheel and remove wheel.
9. Remove the steering lower cover and engine hood
opening lever.
10. Remove the driver knee bolster assembly.
11. Remove the steering column cover.
12. Remove air conditioning lower duct.
13. Disconnect the 12–pin wiring harness connectors
located at the base of steering column.
CAUTION: Never apply force to the steering wheel
in the direction of the shaft by using a hammer or
other impact tools in an attempt to remove the
steering wheel. The steering shaft is designed as an
energy absorbing unit.
14. Remove the combination switch assembly with SRS
coil.

SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM9J–45
3. Disconnect the yellow 2–pin connector located
behind the air bag assembly and remove air bag
assembly.Refer to “SRS Connectors” in this section
for removal and installation.
827RT009
4. Disconnect horn lead connector.
5. Remove the steering wheel attachment nut.
6. Apply a setting mark across the steering wheel and
shaft so parts can be reassembled in their original
position.
430RS004
7. Move the tires to the straight ahead position before
removing the steering wheel and removing wheel with
5–8521–0016–0.
430RT009
8. Feed wiring though the wheel and remove wheel.
9. Remove the steering lower cover and engine hood
opening lever.
10. Remove the driver knee bolster assembly.
740RT015
11. Remove the steering column cover.
12. Remove air conditioning lower duct.
13. Disconnect the wiring harness connectors located at
the base of steering column.
CAUTION: Never apply force to the steering wheel
in direction of the shaft by using a hammer or other
impact tools in an attempt to remove the steering
wheel. The steering shaft is designed as an energy
absorbing unit.
14. Remove the combination switch assembly with SRS
coil.

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THIS MALUAL INCLUDES THE FOLLOWING SECTIONS:
SECTION No. CONTRNTS
3C FRONT SUSPENSION
3D REAR SUSPENSION; COIL SPRING
3E WHEELS AND TIRES
HOME
3C
3D
3E

DIFFERENTIAL (FRONT) 4A1–2
Front Drive Axle
Diagnosis
ConditionPossible causeCorrection
Oil Leak At Front AxleWorn or defective oil seal.Replace the oil seal.
Front axle housing cracked.Repair or replace.
Oil Leak At Pinion ShaftToo much gear oil.Correct the oil level.
Oil seal worn or defective.Replace the oil seal.
Pinion flange loose or damaged.Tighten or replace.
Noises In Front Axle Drive Shaft
JointBroken or worn drive shaft joints and
bellows (BJ and DOJ).Replace the drive shaft joints and
bellows.
“Clank” When Accelerating From
“Coast”Loose drive shaft joint to output shaft
bolts.Tighten.
Damaged inner drive shaft joint.Replace.
Shudder or Vibration During
Acceleration
Excessive drive shaft joint angle.Repair.
AccelerationWorn or damaged drive shaft joints.Replace.
Sticking spider assembly (inner drive
shaft joint).Lubricate or replace.
Sticking joint assembly (outer drive
shaft joint).Lubricate or replace.
Vibration At Highway SpeedsOut of balance or out of round tires.Balance or replace.
Front end out of alignment.Align.
Noises in Front AxleInsufficient gear oil.Replenish the gear oil.
Wrong or poor grade gear oil.Replace the gear oil.
Drive pinion to ring gear backlash
incorrect.Adjust the backlash.
Worn or chipped ring gear, pinion
gear or side gear.Replace the ring gear, pinion gear or
side gear.
Pinion shaft bearing worn.Replace the pinion shaft bearing.
Wheel bearing worn.Replace the wheel bearing.
Differential bearing loose or worn.Tighten or replace.
Wanders and PullsWheel bearing preload too tight.Adjust the wheel bearing preload.
Incorrect front alignment.Adjust the front alignment.
Steering linkage loose or worn.Tighten or replace.
Steering gear out of adjustment.Adjust or replace the steering gear.
Tire worn or improperly inflated.Adjust the inflation or replace.
Front or rear suspension parts loose
or broken.Tighten or replace.
Front Wheel ShimmyWheel bearing worn or improperly
adjusted.Adjust or replace.
Incorrect front alignment.Adjust the front alignment.
Worn ball joint or bush.Replace the ball joint or bush.
Steering linkage loose or worn.Tighten or replace.
Steering gear out of adjustment.Tighten or replace.
Tire worn or improperly inflated.Replace or adjust the inflation.
Shock absorber worn.Replace the shock absorber.

DIFFERENTIAL (REAR 220mm)
4A2A–3
Diagnosis
Many noises that seem to come from the rear axle
actually originate from other sources such as tires, road
surface, wheel bearings, engine, transmission, muffler, or
body drumming. Investigate to find the source of the
noise before disassembling the rear axle. Rear axles, like
any other mechanical device, are not absolutely quiet but
should be considered quiet unless some abnormal noise
is present.
To make a systematic check for axle noise, observe the
following:
1. Select a level asphalt road to reduce tire noise and
body drumming.
2. Check rear axle lubricant level to assure correct level,
and then drive the vehicle far enough to thoroughly
warm up the rear axle lubricant.
3. Note the speed at which noise occurs. Stop the
vehicle and put the transmission in neutral. Run the
engine speed slowly up and down to determine if the
noise is caused by exhaust, muffler noise, or other
engine conditions.
4. Tire noise changes with different road surfaces; axle
noises do not. Temporarily inflate all tires to 344 kPa
(3.5kg/cm
2, 50 psi) (for test purposes only). This will
change noise caused by tires but will not affect noise
caused by the rear axle.
Rear axle noise usually stops when coasting at
speeds under 48 km/h (30 mph); however, tire noise
continues with a lower tone. Rear axle noise usually
changes when comparing pull and coast, but tire
noise stays about the same.
Distinguish between tire noise and rear axle noise by
noting if the noise changes with various speeds or
sudden acceleration and deceleration. Exhaust and
axle noise vary under these conditions, while tire
noise remains constant and is more pronounced at
speeds of 32 to 48 km/h (20 to 30 mph). Further check
for tire noise by driving the vehicle over smooth
pavements or dirt roads (not gravel) with the tires at
normal pressure. If the noise is caused by tires, it will
change noticeably with changes in road surface.
5. Loose or rough front wheel bearings will cause noise
which may be confused with rear axle noise; however,
front wheel bearing noise does not change when
comparing drive and coast. Light application of the
brake while holding vehicle speed steady will often
cause wheel bearing noise to diminish. Front wheel
bearings may be checked for noise by jacking up the
wheels and spinning them or by shaking the wheels to
determine if bearings are loose.
6. Rear suspension rubber bushings and spring
insulators dampen out rear axle noise when correctly
installed. Check to see that there is no link or rod
loosened or metal–to–metal contact.
7. Make sure that there is no metal–to–metal contact
between the floor and the frame.
After the noise has been determined to be in the axle, the
type of axle noise should be determined, in order to make
any necessary repairs.
Gear Noise
Gear noise (whine) is audible from 32 to 89 km/h (20 to 55
mph) under four driving conditions.
1. Driving under acceleration or heavy pull.
2. Driving under load or under constant speed.
3. When using enough throttle to keep the vehicle from
driving the engine while the vehicle slows down
gradually (engine still pulls slightly).
4. When coasting with the vehicle in gear and the throttle
closed. The gear noise is usually more noticeable
between 48 and 64 km/h (30 and 40 mph) and 80 and
89 km/h (50 and 55 mph).
Bearing Noise
Bad bearings generally produce a rough growl or grating
sound, rather than the whine typical of gear noise.
Bearing noise frequently “wow–wows” at bearing rpm,
indicating a bad pinion or rear axle side bearing. This
noise can be confused with rear wheel bearing noise.
Rear Wheel Bearing Noise
Rear wheel bearing noise continues to be heard while
coasting at low speed with transmission in neutral. Noise
may diminish by gentle braking. Jack up the rear wheels,
spin them by hand and listen for noise at the hubs.
Replace any faulty wheel bearings.
Knock At Low Speeds
Low speed knock can be caused by worn universal joints
or a side gear hub counter bore in the cage that is worn
oversize. Inspect and replace universal joints or cage and
side gears as required.
Backlash Clunk
Excessive clunk on acceleration and deceleration can be
caused by a worn rear axle pinion shaft, a worn cage,
excessive clearance between the axle and the side gear
splines, excessive clearance between the side gear hub
and the counterbore in the cage, worn pinion and side
gear teeth, worn thrust washers, or excessive drive pinion
and ring gear backlash. Remove worn parts and replace
as required. Select close–fitting parts when possible.
Adjust pinion and ring gear backlash.

4A2A–4
DIFFERENTIAL (REAR 220mm)
Axle Housing
Axle Housing and Associated Parts
420RW022
Legend
(1) Coil Spring and Insulator
(2) Axle Housing Assembly
(3) ABS Speed Sensor and Harness(if equipped)
(4) Nut
(5) Parking Brake Cable
(6) Bolt and Nut
(7) Antilock Brake System (ABS) Connector and
Bracket (if equipped)
(8) Bolt and Nut(9) Nut
(10) Differential Assembly
(11) Axle Shaft Assembly
(12) Brake Disc
(13) Brake Pipe
(14) Brake Caliper
(15) Nut
(16) Breather Hose
(17) Flare Nut
Removal
1. Raise the vehicle and support it with suitable safety
stands.
The hoist must remain under the rear axle housing.
2. Drain brake fluid. Refer to Hydraulic Brakes in Brake
section.
3. Remove rear wheels and tires. Refer to Wheel in
Suspension section.4. Remove propeller shaft. Refer to Rear Propeller
Shaft in this section.
5. Drain the rear axle oil into a proper container.
6. Remove parking brake cable, release the connection
between the cable fixing clip equalizer. Refer to
Parking Brakes in Brake section.
7. Move the clip aside and pull out the breather hose.

4A2A–6
DIFFERENTIAL (REAR 220mm)
11. Install the lateral rod fixing nut to the axle housing.
12. Install the stabilizer linkage mounting nut to the axle
housing.
13. Install the shock absorber fixing nut to the axle
housing.
14. Install brake tube flare nut, Refer to Disk Brakes in
Brake section.15. Install ABS connector and bracket (ABS model only).
16. Connect breather hose.
17. Install parking brake cable, Refer to Parking Brakes in
Brake section.
18. Bleed brakes. Refer to Hydraulic Brakes in Brake
section.
Axle Shaft
Axle Shaft and Associated Parts
420RY00005
Legend
(1) Brake Caliper
(2) Brake Disc
(3) Wheel Pin
(4) Axle Shaft Assembly
(5) Back Plate
(6) Parking Brake Assembly(7) Bearing Holder
(8) Bearing
(9) Retainer
(10) Snap Ring
(11) Bolt
(12) Nut
(13) Antilock Brake System (ABS) Speed Sensor
Removal
1. Raise the vehicle.
2. Remove tires and wheels. Refer to Wheel in Steering
section.3. Remove brake caliper. Use a wire to attach the brake
caliper to the frame. Refer to Disk Brakes in Brake
section.
4. Remove brake disc.
5. Remove ABS sensor.
6. Remove Parking brake assembly. Refer to Parking
Brakes in Brake section.

4A2B–4DIFFERENTIAL (REAR 244mm)
Diagnosis
Many noises that seem to come from the rear axle
actually originate from other sources such as tires, road
surface, wheel bearings, engine, transmission, muffler, or
body drumming. Investigate to find the source of the
noise before disassembling the rear axle. Rear axles, like
any other mechanical device, are not absolutely quiet but
should be considered quiet unless some abnormal noise
is present.
To make a systematic check for axle noise, observe the
following:
1. Select a level asphalt road to reduce tire noise and
body drumming.
2. Check rear axle lubricant level to assure correct level,
and then drive the vehicle far enough to thoroughly
warm up the rear axle lubricant.
3. Note the speed at which noise occurs. Stop the
vehicle and put the transmission in neutral. Run the
engine speed slowly up and down to determine if the
noise is caused by exhaust, muffler noise, or other
engine conditions.
4. Tire noise changes with different road surfaces; axle
noises do not. Temporarily inflate all tires to 344 kPa
(3.5kg/cm
2, 50 psi) (for test purposes only). This will
change noise caused by tires but will not affect noise
caused by the rear axle.
Rear axle noise usually stops when coasting at
speeds under 48 km/h (30 mph); however, tire noise
continues with a lower tone. Rear axle noise usually
changes when comparing pull and coast, but tire
noise stays about the same.
Distinguish between tire noise and rear axle noise by
noting if the noise changes with various speeds or
sudden acceleration and deceleration. Exhaust and
axle noise vary under these conditions, while tire
noise remains constant and is more pronounced at
speeds of 32 to 48 km/h (20 to 30 mph). Further check
for tire noise by driving the vehicle over smooth
pavements or dirt roads (not gravel) with the tires at
normal pressure. If the noise is caused by tires, it will
change noticeably with changes in road surface.
5. Loose or rough front wheel bearings will cause noise
which may be confused with rear axle noise; however,
front wheel bearing noise does not change when
comparing drive and coast. Light application of the
brake while holding vehicle speed steady will often
cause wheel bearing noise to diminish. Front wheel
bearings may be checked for noise by jacking up the
wheels and spinning them or by shaking the wheels to
determine if bearings are loose.
6. Rear suspension rubber bushings and spring
insulators dampen out rear axle noise when correctly
installed. Check to see that there is no link or rod
loosened or metal–to–metal contact.
7. Make sure that there is no metal–to–metal contact
between the floor and the frame.
After the noise has been determined to be in the axle, the
type of axle noise should be determined, in order to make
any necessary repairs.
Gear Noise
Gear noise (whine) is audible from 32 to 89 km/h (20 to 55
mph) under four driving conditions.
1. Driving under acceleration or heavy pull.
2. Driving under load or under constant speed.
3. When using enough throttle to keep the vehicle from
driving the engine while the vehicle slows down
gradually (engine still pulls slightly).
4. When coasting with the vehicle in gear and the throttle
closed. The gear noise is usually more noticeable
between 48 and 64 km/h (30 and 40 mph) and 80 and
89 km/h (50 and 55 mph).
Bearing Noise
Bad bearings generally produce a rough growl or grating
sound, rather than the whine typical of gear noise.
Bearing noise frequently “wow–wows” at bearing rpm,
indicating a bad pinion or rear axle side bearing. This
noise can be confused with rear wheel bearing noise.
Rear Wheel Bearing Noise
Rear wheel bearing noise continues to be heard while
coasting at low speed with transmission in neutral. Noise
may diminish by gentle braking. Jack up the rear wheels,
spin them by hand and listen for noise at the hubs.
Replace any faulty wheel bearings.
Knock At Low Speeds
Low speed knock can be caused by worn universal joints
or a side gear hub counter bore in the cage that is worn
oversize. Inspect and replace universal joints or cage and
side gears as required.
Backlash Clunk
Excessive clunk on acceleration and deceleration can be
caused by a worn rear axle pinion shaft, a worn cage,
excessive clearance between the axle and the side gear
splines, excessive clearance between the side gear hub
and the counterbore in the cage, worn pinion and side
gear teeth, worn thrust washers, or excessive drive pinion
and ring gear backlash. Remove worn parts and replace
as required. Select close–fitting parts when possible.
Adjust pinion and ring gear backlash.