relay CHEVROLET CAMARO 1967 1.G Chassis Owner's Guide

CLUTCH AND TRANSMISSIONS 7-9

6. Connect speedometer cable.

7. Install propeller shaft assembly.

8. Fill transmission with lubricant specified in Section

O.

CORVETTE TRANSMISSION REPLACEMENT

, 1. Disconnect battery ground cable.

2.
Pisassemble transmission shift control lever by un-

screwing ball from lever, lifting out
"T"
handle re-

turn spring and "T" handle, then remove the anti-

rattle bushings.

3.
Raise front and rear of vehicle.

4.
Insert a block of wood between the top of the dif-

ferential carrier housing and the underbody (to pre-

vent upward travel of the carrier when the carrier

front support is disconnected).

5. Disconnect the differential carrier front supportfrom

its frame bracket, by removing the nut on the under-

side of the biscuit mount.

6. Pry the carrier downward to relieve load while re-

moving the two center mounting bolts from the car-

rier front support. (To pry carrier downward insert

crowfoot end of a pry bar through the opening in the

carrier front support, hooking end of bar over top of

the center mounting bolt pad cast in the underside of

the carrier.)

7. Pivot carrier support downward for access to prop

shaft "U" joint.

8.
.
Disconnect prop shaft front and then rear "U" bolts.

9. Disconnect parking brake cable from ball socket at

idler lever located near center of underbody.

10.
Remove prop shaft by moving shaft forward.

11.
Remove heat deflectors from the right and left ex-

haust pipe.

12.
Remove left bank exhaust pipe.

13.
Remove right bank exhaust pipe and heat riser.

14.
Disassemble the transmission mount, as follows:

a. Remove the two bolts that attach rear mount

cushion to the rear mount bracket.

b.
Support engine under oil pan and raise engine to

remove load from rear mount cushion.
CAUTION: To avoid damage to oil pan, a suit-

able wide base, heavy wood platform should be

placed between the jack pad and the oil pan.

c. Remove the three transmission mount bracket-

to-
crossm ember bolts and remove mount bracket.

d. Remove the two bolts from mount pad to trans-

mission case and remove rubber mount cushion

and exhaust pipe "yoke".

15.
Disconnect transmission linkage by removing the

shift levers at the transmission side cover.

16.
Disconnect speedo cable at transmission extension.

17.
Remove transmission output shaft slip yoke.

NOTE:
The yoke is removed to avoid tearing

the heat reflecting pad on the underbody, when

the transmission is being removed.

18.
Remove two bolts to disconnect the transmission

gearshift control lever and bracket assembly from

its adapter plate on side of transmission. Lower

transmission assembly from the vehicle, letting the

gearshift lever slide down and through the dust boot

in the console.

19.
Remove transmission-to-clutch housing attaching

bolts.

20.
Slide transmission assembly rearward from clutch

and rotate transmission for access to the three flat

head machine screws in the control lever bracket

adapter plate. Remove adapter plate. Rotate trans-

mission back to the upright position.

21.
To allow room for transmission removal slowly

lower the rear of engine until the tachometer drive

cable at the distributor just clears the horizontal

ledge across the front of dash.

CAUTION: The tachometer cable can be easily

damaged by heavy contact with the dash. Slide

transmission rearward out of the clutch, then

tip front end of transmission downward and

lower the assembly from vehicle.

22.
Reinstall transmission assembly by performing above

steps in reverse order.

TRANSMISSION OVERDRIVE

INDEX

Page

General
Description 7-10

Maintenance
and Adjustments 7—10

Governor
Switch and Pinion .............. 7-10

Sun
Gear Solenoid Oil Seal and Control

Cable
Bracket 7-10

Case
Rear Oil Seal 7-10

Removal
7-10

Installation
. . . . . 7-10

Control
Shaft Lever and Oil Seal 7-10

Speedometer
Driven Gear 7-10

Electrical
Unit Checks 7-11

Overdrive
Relay . 7-11
Page

Air
Gap 7-11

Point
Opening 7-11

Closing
Voltage 7-11

Solenoid
. 7-11

Closing
Coil 7-11

Engaging
Spring . - 7-11

Ignition
Grounding Contact . 7-11

Governor
Switch 7-11

Kickdown
Switch 7-11

Diagnosis
- Overdrive 7-12

Mechanical
. 7-12

Electrical
7-13

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

CLUTCH AND TRANSMISSIONS 7-10 ,

GENERAL DESCRIPTION

The overdrive unit is essentially a two-speed planetary-

transmission attached to the rear of a conventional three-

speed transmission. In overdrive, engine speed is ap-

proximately 30 per cent slower at a given road speed

since the drive train includes planetary gears which pro-

vide a lower overall gear ratio than that obtained in high

gear with the conventional transmission.

The electrical equipment which controls the automatic

action of the mechanical portion of the overdrive unit

consists of a solenoid, a speed-sensitive governor switch,

a relay and a kickdown switch. The circuit including this

equipment makes it possible to operate in overdrive above

a pre-set cut-in speed, or in .conventional drive at any

speed.

With the overdrive unit engaged, the transmission

should not be left in any forward gear with intent of lock-

ing the drive-line as the overrunning clutch is a free-

wheeling condition.
SERVICING THE OVERDRIVE

With the,overdrive assembly removed from the trans-

mission, service operations on the transmission proper

are the same as for the standard three-speed trans-

mission.

Repairs to the overdrive housing, output shaft, ring

gear assembly, clutch cam, roller retainer, pinion cage,

sun gear, shift rail, sun gear control plate, output shaft

bearing, oil seal, speedometer drive gear, solenoid pawl

and interlock plunger may be performed underneath the

car, if so desired, by removing the overdrive housing

without disturbing the transmission. Refer to Overhaul

Manual for Service Procedure.

If the transmission mainshaft, overdrive adapter or

transmission rear bearing which is retained in adapter

require replacement, the entire transmission and over-

drive assembly should be removed and overhauled on the

bench.

MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENTS

Servicing of the overdrive governor switch and pinion,

the sun gear solenoid, oil seal and cable bracket, the out-

put shaft rear oil seal, the control shaft lever, and the

speedometer driven gear may be accomplished without

removing the overdrive from the vehicle, as discussed

in the following paragraphs:

GOVERNOR SWITCH AND PINION

To remove governor switch, disconnect wires at gover-

nor switch and screw governor
out
of housing, using Tool

J-4653 on the flat hexagonal surface of governor case.

The pinion may be separated from the governor by re-

moving the snap ring on the shaft.

SUN GEAR SOLENOID, OIL SEAL AND

CONTROL CABLE BRACKET

Remove the solenoid by taking out the two mounting

bolts and lock washers, removing
the.
cable bracket with

the lower bolt. Turn the solenoid 1/4 turn and
pull,
sole-

noid plunger out of adapter. The oil seal may be pried

out of the adapter.

CASE REAR OIL SEAL

Removal

1.
Remove propeller shaft as outlined in Section 4.

2.
Using a punch against seal in housing, pry out seal

from housing.

Installation

1.
Prelubricate between sealing lips and coat outside of

new oil seal with a suitable sealant, then start seal

into bore in overdrive housing.

2.
Using Tool J-5154 drive oil seal into counterbore.

3.
Install propeller shaft as outlined in Section 4.

CONTROL SHAFT LEVER AND/OR "O" RING

OIL SEALS

To remove- the control shaft, disconnect the cpntrol
cable, remove tapered pin and pull lever out. Replace

the two "0" ring seals on the control shaft. Insert shaft

and new "O" ring seals into housing and install tapered

pin. Connect control wire to lever.

SPEEDOMETER DRIVEN GEAR

Disconnect speedometer cable, remove lock plate to

housing bolt and lock washer and remove lock plate. In-

sert screw driver in lock plate slot in fitting and pry

fitting, gear and shaft from housing. Pry "O" ring from

groove in guide.

Install new "O" ring in groove in fitting and insert

shaft.

Hold the assembly so slot in fitting is toward lock plate

boss on housing and install in housing. Push fitting into

housing until lock plate can be inserted in groove and

attached to housing.

L
dl

ZAIR GAP

km (CHECK WITH

M*= POINTS BARELY
'A

AoWER
|^

POINT

0 ADJUST

=^ i
SUPPORT

Fig. IB - Checking Relay Air Gap

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

CLUTCH AND TRANSMISSIONS 7-11

UPPER ARMATURE STOP

(BEND TO ADJUST POINT OPENING)

Fig.
2B-Adjusting Relay Point Opening

ELECTRICAL UNIT CHECKS

Overdrive Relay

Specifications and checking procedures for this relay

are as follows:

Specifications

Air Gap Oil inch minimum

Point Opening .025 inch

Closing Voltage
8.3-10.2
volts

Armature Sealing Voltage. ..... 11.2 volts maximum

Three checks and adjustments are required on the

overdrive relay; air gap, point opening and closing volt-

age.
The air gap contact point opening checks and adjust-

ments should be made with the battery disconnected.

Air Gap

The air gap should not normally require adjustment

unless the relay has been misadjusted. Check the air gap

with the points barely touching and adjust if necessary by

bending the lower point support (fig, IB).

Point Opening

Check the contact point opening and adjust by bending

the upper armature stop (fig. 2B).

Closing Voltage

To check the relay closing voltage, connect a potenti-

ometer or variable resistance of sufficient value (not less

than 50 ohms) in series with the "KD" terminal, connect a

voltmeter to the "IGN" and "KD" terminals. With the

ignition switch on, slowly decrease the amount of resist-

ance in order to check the relay closing voltage (the

overdrive solenoid and relay should click when the relay

closes). Adjust the closing voltage by bending the arma-

ture spring post (fig. 3B). Bend down to increase the

closing voltage and bend up to decrease the closing

voltage.

To check the sealing voltage, increase the voltage after

the relay closes until the armature seals against the

core.
Decrease the sealing voltage by reducing the relay

air gap.

Solenoid

Closing Coil

Remove solenoid from transmission, connect a jumper

wire between negative terminal of battery and mounting

flange of solenoid. Connect a second jumper wire be-
ARMATURE SPRING PQST

(BEND TO ADJUST CLOSING VOLTAGE)

Fig.
3B - Adjusting Relay Closing Voltage

tween the battery positive terminal and solenoid terminal

No.
4; this should cause the solenoid pawl to move out.

If solenoid chatters, Hold-In Coil is defective.

Engaging Spring

With jumper wire connected as in paragraph above,

(solenoid energized, plunger extended) place ball end of

solenoid against bench. Push down on solenoid. The

pawl rod should move in 3/8M under a load of not less

than 8 lbs. nor more than 12. Pawl should move out to

extended position when load is removed.

Ignition Grounding Contact

Place a test lamp between negative battery terminal

and solenoid terminal No. 6. Lamp should light when this

connection is made. Remove jumper from between nega-

tive battery terminal and solenoid terminal No. 4. Pawl

rod should snap "in" and test lamp should go out.

Governor Switch

Remove overdrive wire at governor and connect test

lamp between governor overdrive terminal and positive

terminal of battery. Drive car on road or raise on jacks.

The lamp should light at a car speed of between 26 to 30

MPH. Upon decreasing speed, the lamp should go out at

between 28 and 23.5 MPH. The car speed differential

between light "on" and light "off" should be 2 or 3 MPH.

Kickdown Switch

Disconnect the 4 wires at kickdown switch.

1.
Connect test lamp between "SW" terminal and posi-

tive terminal of battery; with switch in normal posi-

tion, lamp should light when "REL" terminal is

grounded but should not light when "IGN" or "SOL"

terminals or switch case is grounded.

2.
Connect test lamp between "IGN" terminal and posi-

tive terminal of battery; with switch stem pushed in,

lamp should light when "SOL" terminal is grounded,

but should not light when "SW" or "REL" terminals

or switch case is grounded.

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

CLUTCH AND TRANSMISSIONS 7-12

DIAGNOSIS-OVERDRIVE

MECHANICAL

Any one of the following general complaints may be due

to non-standard mechanical conditions in the overdrive

unit:

1.
Does not drive unless locked up manually.

2.
Does not engage, or lock-up does not release.

3.
Engages with a severe jolt, or noise.

4.
Free-wheels at speeds over 30 mph.

These^ troubles may be diagnosed and remedied as de-

scribed in the following paragraphs.

1.
Does not drive unless locked up manually.

a. Occasionally, the unit may not drive the car for-

ward in direct drive, unless locked up by pulling

the dash control. This may be caused by one or

more broken rollers in the roller clutch, the

remedy for which is the replacement of the entire

set of rollers.

b.
This may also be caused by sticking of the roller

retainer upon the cam. This retainer must move

freely to push the rollers into engaging position,

under the pressure of the two actuating springs.

c. Sometimes this is due to slight indentations, worn

in the cam faces by the rollers spinning, remedied

by replacement of the cam.

2.
Does not engage, or lock-up does not release

.. a. Dash control improperly connected—-Unless the

overdrive dash control wire is connected to the

lockup lever on the left side of the overdrive

housing in such a manner as to move the lever

all the way back when the dash control knob is

pushed in, it may hold the shift rail in such a po-

sition as to interlock the pawl against full engage-

ment resulting in a buzzing noise when overdrive

engagement is attempted.

To correctly make this connection, loosen bind-

ing post at lever, pull dash control knob out 1/4",

move lever all the way to the rear, and tighten

binding post.

b.
Transmission and overdrive improperly aligned—

The same symptoms as above may also result

from misalignment, at assembly, of the overdrive

housing to the transmission case, resulting in

binding of the overdrive shift rail, so that the re-

tractor spring cannot move the rail fully forward,

when the dash control knob is pushed in, and the

transmission is not in reverse. Under such con-

ditions, the unit may remain fully locked up.

To test for this, be sure that the transmission

is not in reverse; disconnect the dash control

wire from the lockup lever, and feel the lever for

free forward movement. If the lever can be

moved forward more than 1/4", it indicates that

misalignment probably exists. To correct this,

Jposen the capscrews between the overdrive hous-

ing and transmission case, and tap the adpater

plate and overdrive housing until a position is

found where the rail shifts freely; tighten cap-

screws.

c. Kickdown switch improperly adjusted—The posi-

tion of the kickdown switch should be adjusted,

by means of the two large nuts which clamp the

switch shank, so the switch plunger travels 3/16"
before the throttle lever touches its stop.

Occasionally the large nuts which clamp the

switch through the switch bracket are tightened

sufficiently to bend the switch shank, thus pre-

venting free motion of the switch stem. This may

usually be remedied by loosening the upper of the

two nuts.

d. Improper installation of solenoid—If car cannot

be rolled backward under any circumstances and

there is no relay click when the ignition is turned

on, it probably indicates that the solenoid has

been installed directly, without twisting into the

bayonet lock between solenoid stem and pawl, thus

jamming the pawl permanently into overdrive en-

gagement. If the car will occasionally roll back-

wards, but not always, (and there is no relay click

when the ignition switch is turned on) it may indi-

cate that, upon installation, the bayonet lock was

caught, and the solenoid forcibly twisted into

alignment with the attaching flange, thus shearing

off the internal keying of the solenoid. Under

these circumstances, the end of the solenoid stem

may not catch in the pawl, and upon release of the

solenoid, the pawl will not be withdrawn promptly

from engagement, but simply drift out. If the

solenoid stem end has its two flats exactly facing

the two solenoid flange holes, it will not withdraw

the pawl properly. If the stem can be rotated

when grasped by a pair of pliers, it indicates that

the internal keying has been sheared.

e. Improper positioning of blocker ring—Occasion-

ally, either in assembly at the factory, or in

service operations in the field, the internal parts

of the overdrive unit may have been rotated with

the solenoid pawl removed, causing the blocker

ring to rotate, so that its two lugs are not located

with respect to- the pawl as shown in Figure 12B.

In other words, the solid portion of the blocker

ring may be in alignment with the pawl, which will

prevent fill} engagement of the pawl with the sun

gear control plate/

To test for this condition, remove solenoid

cover, pull dash control knob out, roll car 2 ft.

forward. Push dash control in, turn ignition

switch on. Then ground the "KD" terminal of

relay, and watch movement of center stem of

solenoid. It should not move more than 1/8" when

the solenoid clicks. Then, with the relay terminal

still grounded, shift into low gear, and roll car

forward by hand. Solenoid stem should then move

an additional 3/8", as the pawl engages fully.

These two tests indicate proper blocker action.

Unless both tests are met, the blocker ring is

probably not in the correct position.

3.
Engages with a severe jolt or noise

Insufficient blocker ring friction may cause the ring

to lose its grip on the hub of the sun gear control

plate. Check the fit and tension of the ring as de-

scribed under "Cleaning and Inspection".

4.
Free-wheels at speeds over 30 MPH

If cam roller retainer spring tension is weak the unit

will free wheel at all times. Check spring action as

described under "Cleaning and Inspection".

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

CLUTCH AND TRANSMISSIONS 7-13

PULL-IN

WINDING
li
HOLD-IN

WINDING

Fig.
4B -
Overdrive Electrical Circuit Wiring Diagram

ELECTRICAL

Any one of the following general complaints may be due

to electrical trouble in the overdrive circuit.

1.
Does not engage.

2.
Does not release.

3.
Does not kickdown from overdrive.

These troubles may be traced and remedied as de-

scribed in the following paragraphs.

1.
Does not engage

a. With the ignition switch on, ground the "KD" ter-

minal of the solenoid relay with a jumper lead.

If the solenoid clicks, the relay and solenoid cir-

cuits are in operating condition. If no click is

heard in the relay, check the fuse and replace if

defective.

b.
If the fuse is good, use a second jumper lead to

connect the "SOL" and "BAT" terminals of the

relay. If a click is now heard in the solenoid, the

relay is probably at fault and should be repaired

or replaced.

c. If the solenoid does not click in Step b, check the

wiring to the No. 4 terminal of the solenoid and

replace if necessary. If the wiring is not defec-

tive,
the trouble is probably in the solenoid. Re-

move the solenoid cover, examine the solenoid

contacts in series with the pull-in winding and

clean if necessary. Test again for clicks, as in

Step b, after replacing solenoid cover and lead

wires.
Replace the solenoid if trouble has not

been corrected.

d. If the relay and solenoid circuits are in good con-

dition as determined in Step a, leave the ignition

switch on and make sure the manual control knob

is in the overdrive position. Ground one and then

the other of the two terminals next to the stem of

the kickdown switch (identified as "SW" and
?fREL"). K the solenoid clicks when one terminal

is grounded but not the other, replace the switch.

If the solenoid does not click when either of the

terminals is grounded, check the wiring between

the relay and the kickdown switch and replace if

defective.

e. If the solenoid clicks as each terminal is grounded

in Step d, ground the governor switch terminal.

If the solenoid clicks, the governor switch may be

defective. If the solenoid does not click, check

the wiring between the kickdown and governor

switches and replace if necessary.

2.
Does not release

a. Remove the connection to the "KD" terminal of

the relay. If this release overdrive, look for a

grounded control circuit between the relay and

governor switch.

b.
If the overdrive is not released in Step a, dis-

connect the lead to the "SOL" terminal of relay.

If this releases the overdrive, replace the relay.

3.
Does not kickdown from overdrive

a. With the engine running, connect a jumper lead

between the No. 6 terminal of the solenoid and

ground. Operate the kickdown switch by hand.

This should stop the engine. If it does, the sole-

noid is probably defective and it should be checked

for dirty ground-out contacts or other defects

within the ground-out circuit of the solenoid (fig.

4B).
Clean the contacts or replace the contact

plate as required.

b.
If the engine does not stop in Step a, ground one

and then the other of the two terminals (Identified

as "IGN" and "SOL") farthest from the sfem of

the kickdown switch. The engine should stop when

one of the two terminals (IGN) is grounded. If

the engine does not stop when the terminal is

grounded, the wiring or connections to the switch

between the switch and coil are defective. When

the btlier terminal (SOL) is grounded, the engine

should stop when the kickdown switch is operated.

If the engine does not stop when the kickdown

switch is operated with the second terminal

grounded, the kickdown switch is defective. If

the trouble is in the kickdown switch, adjust the

linkage to give more travel of the switch rod.

If this does not correct the trouble, replace the

kickdown switch.

If the kickdown switch operates as it should,

check for an open circuit in the wiring between

the kickdown switch and the No. 6 terminal of the

solenoid.

c. If the trouble is not located by the above checks,

the upper contacts of the kickdown switch may not

be opening. To check for this condition, ground

the overdrive control circuit at the governor

switch. This should cause the solenoid to click.

Operate the kickdown switch by hand. This should

cause a second click as the solenoid releases.

If there is no second click, adjust the linkage to

give more travel of the switch rod. If this does

not correct the trouble, replace the kickdown

switch.

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

SECTION
9

STEERING

CONTENTS
OF
THIS SECTION

Standard Steering
9-1

Power Steering
9-33

Special Tools
9-40

STANDARD STEERING

INDEX

Page

General Description 9.x

Maintenance and Adjustments 9.1

Adjustments
........................
9-2

Steering Gear 9-2

Steering Wheel Alignment and Higji

Point Centering. . . . 9-4

Toe-in Adjustment 9-4

Corvette Steering Ratio . . . . 9-4

Component Replacement and Repairs . . . . 9-4

Steering Wheel . . . 9-4

Regular Production 9-4

Simulated Wood . . . . 9-5

Corvette Telescoping 9-5

Steering Coupling . 9-6

Steering Gear . 9-9

Sector Shaft Seal Replacement 9-10

Steering Column 9-10

Removal 9-10

Disassembly—Syncromesh Column 9-12
Page

Assembly—Syncromesh Column . . 9-14

Disassembly—Column Mounted Powerglide

Lever or Floor Shift Column 9-16

Assembly-^Column Mounted Powerglide

Lever or Floor Shift Column g_x7

Disassembly—Tilt Column 9-19

Assembly—Tilt Column 9-21

Disassembly—Standard Corvette Column 9-23

Assembly—Standard Corvette Column 9-25

Disassembly—Corvette Telescoping Column .... 9.26

Assembly—Corvette Telescoping Column 9-27

Installation 9.27

Steering Linkage 9.29

Tie
Rods.
. 9-29

Relay Rod . . 9-31

Idler Arm . . . . 9-31

Pitman Arm. . 9-32

Steering Arms • • • • 9-32

Steering Damper 9-32

GENERAL DESCRIPTION

The regular production steering gear
is the
recirculat-

ing ball type. This gear provides
for
ease
of
handling
by

transmitting forces from worm
to
sector gear through

ball bearings.
The
steering linkage
is of
the relay type,

and extended interval lubrication design, with the pitman

arm connected
to one end of
the relay
rod. The
other
end

of
the
relay
rod is
connected
to an
idler
arm
which
is

connected
to the
frame side rail opposite
the
steering
gear.
Two
adjustable
tie
rods connect
the
relay
rod to

the steering arms.

All passenger
car
models
for 1967 are
equipped with

new energy absorbing steering columns.
The
mast jacket,

shift tube,
and
steering shaft
are
designed
to
collapse

under various front impact conditions.
All new
columns

are
of
this design, including
the
tilt option and telescope

option.

MAINTENANCE
AND
ADJUSTMENTS

The manual steering gear
is
filled
at the
factory with
a

water resistant grease. Seasonal change
of
this lubrica-

tion
is
unnecessary and
the
housing should
not be
drained.

The steering gear lubricant level should
be
checked every

36,000 miles. Whenever required, additions should
be

made using
a
water resistant
EP
chassis lubricant.

Check and fill steering gear
as
follows:

1.
Remove lower
and
outboard cover retaining screws

(fig.
1).
2.
Insert filling device
in
lower screw hole.

3.
Inject lubricant until
it
appears
in
outboard screw

hole; gear
is now
filled
to
correct level.

The steering linkage should
be
lubricated with water

resistant
EP
chassis lubricant every 6,000 miles
or six

months, whichever occurs first. Lubrication points
and

additional information
on the
chassis lubricant
to be
used

can
be
found
in
Section
0 --
General Information
and

Lubrication.

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

STEERING 9-2

Fig.
1—Cover
Attaching Bolts—Chevy li Shown

ADJUSTMENTS

STEERING
GEAR

Before any adjustments are made to the steering gear

in an attempt to correct such conditions as shimmy,

loose or hard steering etc., a careful check should be

made of front end alignment, shock absorbers, wheel

balance and tire pressure for possible cause.

Correct adjustment of the steering gear is very im-

portant. Perform adjustments following the sequence

listed below,

1.
Remove pitman arm nut and mark relation of pitman

arm position to sector shaft. Remove pitman arm

with Tool J- 6632 as shown in Figure 2.

2.
Loosen the pitman shaft lash adjuster screw locknut

and turn the adjuster screw a few turns in a counter-

clockwise direction (fig. 3). This removes the load
Fig. 2—Removing Pitman Arm

imposed on the worm bearings by the close meshing

of rack and sector teeth. Turn steering wheel gently

in one direction until stopped by gear, then back away

about one turn.

CAUTION: Do not turn steering wheel hard

against stops when steering relay rod is discon-

nected as damage to ball guides may result.

3.
All except Corvette and telescopic columns:

a. Disconnect steering column harness at chassis

wiring connector plug.

b.
Remove horn cap or ornament and using an inch

pound torque wrench and socket on steering wheel

nut, measure torque required to keep the wheel

in motion.

LASH ADJUSTER

SCREW

LOCK NUT

WORM BEARING

ADJUSTER
\

WORM

ADJUSTER

Fig.
3—Steering Gear Adjustment Points

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

STEERING 9-30

CHEVROLET
CHEVELLE

CHEVII
CAMARO

CORVETTE

Fig.
62—Steering Linkage

excessive up and down motion is evident or if any lost

motion or end play at ball end of stud exists.

Removal

1.
Remove cotter pins from ball studs and remove

castellated nuts.

2.
To remove outer ball stud, tap on steering arm at

tie rod end with a hammer while using a heavy

hammer or similar tool as a backing (Fig. 63). If
necessary pull downward on tie rod to remove from

steering arm.

3.
Remove inner ball stud from relay rod using same

procedure as described in Step 2.

4.
To remove tie rod ends from tie rods loosen clamp

bolts and unscrew end assemblies.

Installation

1.
If the tie rod ends were removed, lubricate the tie

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

STEERING 9-31

Fig.
63—Freeing Ball Stud

rod threads with EP Chassis lube and install ends on

tie rod making sure both ends are threaded ah equal

distance from the tie rod.

2.
Make sure that threads on ball stud and in ball stud

nuts are perfectly clean and smooth. Install neoprene

seals on ball studs.

NOTE: If threads are not clean and smooth,

ball studs may turn in tie rod ends when at-

tempting to tighten nut.

3.
Install ball studs in steering arms and relay rod.

4.
Install ball stud nut, and install cotter pins. Lubri-

cate tie rod ends.

5.
Adjust toe-in as described in Section 3.

NOTE: Before locking clamp bolts on the rods,

make sure that the tie rod ends are in alignment

with their ball studs (each ball joint is in the

center of its travel). If the tie rod is not in

alignment with the studs, binding will result.

RELAY ROD-ALL MODELS EXCEPT CORVETTE

Removal

1.
Remove inner ends of tie rods from relay rod as

described under Tie Rod - Removal.

2.
Remove cotter pin and nut from relay rod ball stud

attachment at pitman arm.

3.
Detach relay rod from pitman arm. Shift steering

linkage as required to free pitman arm from relay

rod.

4.
Remove cotter pin and nut from idler arm and re-

move relay rod from idler arm.

Installation

1.
Install relay rod to idler arm, making certain idler

stud seal is in place, then install and tighten nut.

Advance nut just enough to align castellation with

cotter pin hole and install pin.

2.
Raise end of rod and install on pitman arm. Secure

with nut and cotter pin.
3.
Install tie rod ends to relay rod as previously

described under Tie Rods. Lubricate tie rod ends.

4.
Adjust toe-in (see Section 3) and align steering wheel

as described previously in this section under Steer-

ing Wheel Alignment and High Point Centering.

RELAY ROD-CORVETTE

Removal

1.
Remove steering damper from relay rod as outlined

under Steering Damper-Removal. Remove anchor

bracket from relay rod by disconnecting two mount-

ing bolts.

2.
Remove inner ends of tie rods from relay rod as

described under Tie Rod--Removal.

3.
Remove cotter pin from end of relay rod at pitman

arm ball stud attachment, and remove stud nut.

4.
Tap brJl stud out of pitman arm and lower relay rod.

5.
Remove cotter key and nut from idler arm and re-

move relay rod from idler arm. Remove washer and

seal from idler arm.

Installation

1.
Place relay rod on idler arm stud, making certain

idler stud seal and washer are in place, then install

and tighten nut. Advance nut just enough to align

castellation with cotter pin hole and install pin.

2.
Install new seal and clamp over ball at end of pitman

arm.

3.
Install inner spring seat and spring to relay rod.

4.
Raise end of rod and install on pitman arm.

5.
Install spring seat, spring, and end plug.

6. Tighten end plug until springs are compressed and

plug bottoms, then back off 3/4 turn plug amount

necessary to insert cotter pin. Insert cotter pin to

lock adjustment.

7.
Install tie rod ends to relay rod as previously de-

scribed under Tie Rods.

8. Lubricate tie rod ends and pitman arm to relay rod

ball joint.

9. Install steering damper bracket and tighten bolts.

Install damper as outlined under Steering Damper--

Installation.

10.
Adjust toe-in and align steering wheel as described

previously in this section.

IDLER ARM

Chevrolet, Chevelle, Comoro, and Corvette (Fig. 62)

Removal

1.
Remove idler arm to frame nut, washer, and bolt.

No washer is used on Corvette.

2.
Remove cotter pin and nut from idler arm to relay

rod ball stud.

3.
Remove relay rod from idler arm by tapping relay

rod with a hammer using a heavy hammer as a

backing.

4.
Remove idler arm.

Installation

1.
On Chevrolet, place seal in position on idler arm

stud; position stud up through frame, and secure with

lock washer and nut.

2.
On Chevelle, Camaro, and Corvette, position idler

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

STEERING
9-32

arm on frame and install mounting bolts, washers

and nuts. No washer is used on Corvette.

Install relay rod to idler arm, ^making certain seal

is on stud. Install and tighten nut.

Install cotter pin.

Refer to torque specifications at rear of manual for'

correct torque values.

Chevy II (Fig. 62}

Removal

1.
Remove cotter pin, nut and washer securing idler

arm to relay rod.

2.
Remove relay rod from idler arm.

3.
If equipped with power steering disconnect power

cylinder shaft from idler arm bracket.

4.
Remove three idler bracket to frame bolts and nuts

and remove bracket and idler arm assembly.

5.
Remove cotter pin, nut, washer and bolt securing the

idler arm to the bracket.

6. Press out the idler arm bushing for replacement.

Installation

NOTE: Installation must be done with front

wheels straight ahead or the car will lead to one

side.

1.
Install idler arm bushing, if previously removed.

NOTE: Make certain the outer sleeve of the

bushing does not protrude above surface of idler

arm.

2.
Reverse removal procedure and torque all nuts ac-

cording to specifications.

PITMAN ARM

Removal

1.
Remove cotter pin from pitman arm ball stud and

remove nut.

2.
Remove relay rod from pitman arm by tapping on

side of rod or arm in which the stud mounts with a

hammer while using a heavy hammer or similar tool

as a backing. Pull down on relay rod to remove

from stud.

3.
Remove pitman arm nut from sector shaft and mark

relation of arm position to shaft.

4.
Remove pitman arm with Tool J-6632 as shown in

Figure 2.

Installation

1.
Install pitman arm on sector shaft, lining up the

• marks made upon removal.

2.
Install sector shaft nut.

3.
Position relay rod on to pitman arm. Install nut.

Continue to tighten arm enough to align castellation

with hole in stud and install cotter pin.
STEERING ARM

If, through collision or other damage, it becomes nec-

essary to remove and replace either steering arm, pro-

ceed as follows:

Removal

1.
Remove tie rod from steering arm as outlined in this

section.

2.
Remove front wheel, hub and brake drum as a unit

by removing hub cap and dust cap, cotter pin from

spindle nut and the spindle nut. Pull assembly to-

ward outside of vehicle. If removal is difficult, it

may be necessary to back off brake adjustment to

increase brake shoe-to-drum clearance; see Hy-

draulic Brake Adjustment, Section 5. On models

with disc brakes, remove caliper and disc.

3.
With wheel and drum assembly or caliper and disc

removed, steering arm retaining bolt heads are ac-

cessible and removal of steering arm from vehicle

may be accomplished by removing retaining nuts.

Installation

1.
Place steering arm in position on vehicle and install

retaining bolts*

2.
Install nuts. Use only the special locknut listed for

this use in the Chevrolet Parts Catalog.

3.
Pack wheel bearings using a high quality wheel

bearing lubricant. Install bearings and wheel-hub-

brake drum assembly removed previously. On disc

brake models, install disc and caliper.

4.
Install keyed washer and spindle nut. Proceed as out-

lined under t{ Front Wheel Bearing Adjustment" in

Section 3.

5.
Install tie rod ball stud in steering arm. Be sure that

the dust cover is in place on ball stud.

6. Install castellated nut on ball stud, tighten securely

and install cotter pin.

7.
Following directions given in Section 3 to check cor-

nering wheel relationship and toe-in; correct as

required.

STEERING DAMPER-CORVETTE

Removal

1.
Remove bolt from damper pivot bracket at relay rod.

2.
Remove nut from damper pivot at frame bracket and

withdraw damper assembly.

Damper is serviced as a unit. Replace damper if
3.

damaged or excessively worn.

Installation

1.
Place piston rod end into frame bracket and install

retainers, bushings, and nut.

2.
Insert cylinder end pivot into relay rod bracket and

install through bolt.

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL