battery CHEVROLET DYNASTY 1993 Service Manual
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Page 1959 of 2438

CAUTION: Interlock cable must by completely
clipped to the throttle pedal bracket with both barbs
of clip fully installed through mounting holes. This
is to prevent interference with throttle pedal.
(6) Snap the interlock cable routing clip into the 2
holes on the throttle pedal mounting bracket (Fig.
12). (7) Snap the end fitting of the interlock cable into
the corner of the shifter assembly (Fig. 14). The cable
end and clip must pass under and clip to the shifter
pivot.
(8) Install slug on end of interlock cable into notch,
on shifter lockout spring loaded lever (Fig. 15). Make
sure that cable slug is fully seated in cup of lever as-
sembly. (9) Adjust the Shifter/Ignition Interlock System.
See Interlock System Adjustment, in this section of
service manual. (10) Perform the Shifter/Ignition Interlock System
operation check, as described in the beginning of this
section. (11) Install center console assembly. Refer to
Group 23 Body, in this service manual for the appro-
priate procedure for the body style being serviced.
(12) Install PRNDL plate in center console. Install
the shift knob onto the shifter assembly. Install the
shift knob to shifter retaining screw and torque to 3
N Im (25 in.lbs.) (Fig. 2). (13) Install the lower steering column shrouds on
the steering column (Fig. 8). Tighten the 2 lower
shroud to steering column screws. (14) Make sure ground clip is on left breakaway
capsule. Make sure that both breakaway capsules are
fully seated in the upper steering column bracket. In-
stall the upper steering column mounting bracket
onto the steering column support bracket (Fig. 7). In-
stall the 2 upper steering column bracket to support
bracket nuts and torque to 12 N Im (105 in. lbs.).
(15) Install the upper steering column shrouds on
the steering column (Fig. 6). Tighten the 3 upper
shroud to steering column attaching screws. (16) Install the tilt lever (Fig. 6) (if so equipped)
back on the steering column assembly. (17) Install the lower dash panel bolster. Install
bolster attaching screws and torque to 3 N Im (24 in.
lbs.). Install the inside hood release lever and torque
screws to 3 N Im (24 in. lbs.) (Fig. 5).
(18) Reconnect the battery negative (-) cable to the
vehicle battery.
Fig. 14 Interlock Cable Installation
Fig. 15 Install Interlock Cable In Shifter
Ä STEERING 19 - 41
Page 1964 of 2438

CAUTION: Be sure crossover bellcrank does NOT
move when tightening adjusting screw (Fig. 10).
CAUTION: Proper torque to the crossover cable ad-
justing screw is very important (Fig. 10).
(6) Remove lock pin from gearshift housing and re-
install lock pin (so long end is up) in gear shift hous-
ing. Tighten lock pin to 8 N Im (70 in. lbs.).
(7) Check for shift into first and reverse.
(8) Gearshift mechanism and cables are now func-
tioning properly.
IN-CAR TRANSAXLE DISASSEMBLE/ASSEMBLE
The following items can be serviced without remov-
ing the transaxle from the vehicle:
² Gear shift housing
² Synchronizers
² Intermediate shaft speed gears
² Input shaft
² Reverse idler gear and shaft
² Shift forks and pads
² Shift rails ²
Roller detents
² Speedometer pinion
² All external covers
Observe following procedure:
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove both shift cables from shift cover levers.
(3) Remove left front wheel and tire assembly and
left splash shield. (4) Place drain pan under transaxle and remove
transaxle rear end cover. (5) Push out the fifth fork roll pin and slide the fifth
fork and synchronizer sleeve off the rail/hub. (6) Remove the fifth hub snap ring, hub assembly
and speed gear. (7) Remove fifth gear nut and fifth input gear.
(8) Remove the bearing retainer plate, interlock
plate and shuttles.
CAUTION: Before removing the gearshift housing
assembly, reverse the lock pin (so the long end is
down) and insert lock pin into the same threaded
hole. This procedure will save time when the gear
shift housing assembly is reinstalled. (9) Remove selector shaft housing bolts (note the two
pilot bolts) and remove housing. (10) Remove roller detents and springs, noting that
the rollers align with the shift rails. (11) Push out the 1-2 and 3-4 lug roll pins, remove
the reverse pivot lever and fifth rail C-Clip. If a roll
pin or C-Clip falls, be sure to remove it from the
bottom of the case. (12) Pull out the fifth shift rail and remove the fifth
shift lug and interlock pin. If the pin falls, be sure to
remove it from the bottom of the case. (13) Remove the intermediate shaft ball bearing
snap ring and the bearing support plate. (14) Remove reverse shift rail and lug assembly.
(15) Remove the reverse idler shaft and gear assem-
bly. (16) Rotate the 1-2 shift lug and rail, and 3-4 shift
lug towards the front of the vehicle. (17) Firmly grasp both the input and intermediate
shaft assemblies and pull them out of the transmission
with the 1-2 and 3-4 shift rails, lugs and forks. The differential assembly can only be serviced
by removing the complete transaxle from the
vehicle because bearing preload must be reset. The components listed in the first paragraph can now
be serviced. Refer to the appropriate subassembly
recondition section.
To reassemble the transaxle in the vehicle, reverse
the above procedure using the proper sealants. Fill the
transaxle with SAE 5W-30 engine oil to the bottom of
the fill hole in the end cover.
Fig. 9 Install Cables
Fig. 10 Adjusting Crossover Cable
21 - 4 TRANSAXLE Ä
Page 1965 of 2438

TRANSAXLE REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Transaxle removal does not require engine re-
moval. After installing transaxle, fill transaxle to bottom of
fill plug hole with SAE 5W-30 engine oil before lower-
ing vehicle to floor. (1) Disconnect or connect negativebattery cable.
(2) Install a lifting eyeon battery ground strap bolt
on left side of engine. Then install the engine support
fixture as shown in Figure 1.
(3) Disconnect or connect gearshift cables at tran-
saxle. Disconnect speedometer. Disconnect or connect
gearshift cables bracket at transaxle. (4) Remove or install both front wheel and tire
assemblies. (5) Remove or install left front splash shield.
(6) Remove or install engine left mount from tran-
saxle.
CAUTION:Left engine mounting bolts used in posi-
tion number 1 and number 3 are the same length. The
bolt in the number 2 position is longer. If bolt number
2 is used in position number 3 it can damage the
selector shaft housing when the bolt is seated (Fig.
2).
(7) Remove or install anti-rotational link (or anti-
hop damper) from crossmember bracket. Do not re-
move bracket from transaxle .
(8) Refer to Group 2 Suspension, to remove or
install both drive shafts. When removing or installing the transaxle, it
may be helpful to use locating pins in place of the
top transaxle to engine bolts (Fig. 3).
Make the locating pins from two stock (transaxle
case to engine block) bolts as follows: Using a hacksaw,
remove bolt heads, cut slot in end of bolts for a screw
driver, and remove burrs with a grinding wheel. Install the locating pins into the engine block and
proceed with transaxle installation. After transaxle is
in place, install bolts and remove locating pins before
removing transmission jack.
Fig. 1 Engine Support Fixture
Fig. 2 Left Engine Mount Bolt Location
Fig. 3 Remove or Install Bolts
Ä TRANSAXLE 21 - 5
Page 2008 of 2438

GOVERNOR
To service the governor assembly in the vehicle, it
is not necessary to remove the transfer gear cover,
transfer gear, and governor support. The governor
may be serviced by removing the transaxle oil pan
and valve body assembly. With the oil pan and valve
body removed, the governor may be unbolted from
the governor support and removed. When cleaning or assembling the governor, make
sure the governor valves move freely in the bores of
the governor body.
ALUMINUM THREAD REPAIR
Damaged or worn threads in the aluminum tran-
saxle case and valve body can be repaired by the use
of Heli-Coils, or equivalent. This repair consists of
drilling out the worn-out damaged threads. Then tap-
ping the hole with a Heli-Coil tap, or equivalent, and
installing a Heli-Coil insert, or equivalent, into the
hole. This brings the hole back to its original thread
size. Heli-Coil, or equivalent, tools and inserts are
readily available from most automotive parts suppli-
ers.
OIL COOLERS AND TUBES REVERSE FLUSHING
When a transaxle failure has contaminated the
fluid, the oil cooler(s) must be flushed. The torque
converter must be replaced with an exchange unit.
This will insure that metal particles or sludged oil
are not transferred back into the reconditioned (or
replaced) transaxle.
CAUTION: If vehicle is equipped with two oil cool-
ers (one in the radiator tank, one in front of the ra-
diator) they must be flushed separately. Do not
attempt to flush both coolers at one time.
(1) Disconnect the cooler lines at the transmission.
(2) Using a hand suction gun filled with mineral
spirits, reverse flush the cooler. Force mineral spirits
into the From Cooler line of the cooler (Fig. 9) and
catch the exiting spirits from the To Coolerline.
Observe for the presence of debris in the exiting
fluid. Continue until fluid exiting is clear and free
from debris. (3) Using compressed air in intermittent spurts,
blow any remaining mineral spirits from the cooler,
again in the reverse direction. (4) To remove any remaining mineral spirits from
the cooler, one (1) quart of automatic transmission
fluid should be pumped through the cooler before re-
connecting. (5) If at any stage of the cleaning process, the
cooler does not freely pass fluid, the cooler must be
replaced.
OIL COOLER FLOW CHECK
After the new or repaired transmission has been
installed and filled to the proper level with auto-
matic transmission fluid. The flow should be checked
using the following procedure: (1) Disconnect the From coolerline at the trans-
mission and place a collecting container under the
disconnected line. (2) Run the engine at curb idle speed , with the
shift selector in neutral. (3) If the fluid flow is intermittent or it takes more
than 20 seconds to collect one quart of automatic
transmission fluid, the cooler should be replaced.
CAUTION: With the fluid set at the proper level,
fluid collection should not exceed (1) quart or inter-
nal damage to the transmission may occur.
(4) If flow is found to be within acceptable limits,
reconnect the cooler line. Then fill transmission to
the proper level, using the approved type of auto-
matic transmission fluid.
TRANSAXLE AND TORQUE CONVERTER REMOVAL
Transaxle removal does NOT require engine
removal. (1) The transaxle and torque converter must be re-
moved as an assembly; otherwise, the torque con-
verter drive plate, pump bushing, or oil seal may be
damaged. The drive plate will not support a load;
therefore, none of the weight of the transaxle should
be allowed to rest on the plate during removal. (2) Disconnect battery negative cable .
(3) Disconnect throttle linkage and shift linkage
from transaxle.
Fig. 9 Cooler Line Identification
21 - 48 TRANSAXLE Ä
Page 2059 of 2438

CAUTION: If the vehicle is equipped with two oil
coolers (one in the radiator tank, one in front of the
radiator) they must be flushed separately. Do not
attempt to flush both coolers at one time. (1) Disconnect the cooler lines at the transmission.
(2) Using a hand suction gun filled with mineral
spirits, reverse flush the cooler. Force mineral spirits
into the From Cooler line of the cooler (Fig. 7) and
catch the exiting spirits from the To Coolerline.
Observe for the presence of debris in the exiting
fluid. Continue until fluid exiting is clear and free
from debris.
(3) Using compressed air in intermittent spurts,
blow any remaining mineral spirits from the cooler,
again in the reverse direction. (4) To remove any remaining mineral spirits from
the cooler, one (1) quart of automatic transmission
fluid should be pumped through the cooler before re-
connecting. (5) If at any stage of the cleaning process, the
cooler does not freely pass fluid, the cooler must be
replaced.
OIL COOLER FLOW CHECK
After the new or repaired transmission has been
installed, filled to the proper level with automatic
transmission fluid. The flow should be checked using
the following procedure: (1) Disconnect the From coolerline at the trans-
mission and place a collecting container under the
disconnected line. (2) Run the engine at curb idle speed , with the
shift selector in neutral. (3) If the fluid flow is intermittent or it takes more
than 20 seconds to collect one quart of automatic
transmission fluid, the cooler should be replaced. CAUTION: With the fluid set at the proper level,
fluid collection should not exceed (1) quart or inter-
nal damage to the transmission may occur.
(4) If flow is found to be within acceptable limits,
reconnect the cooler line. Then fill transmission to
the proper level, using the approved type of auto-
matic transmission fluid.
TRANSAXLE REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Transaxle removal does NOT require engine re-
moval. See Group 7-Cooling, to drain engine cooling sys-
tem and remove coolant return extension (3.0 liter
engine only). (1) The transaxle and torque converter must be re-
moved as an assembly; otherwise, the torque con-
verter drive plate, pump bushing or oil seal may be
damaged. The drive plate will not support a load;
therefore, none of the weight of the transaxle should
be allowed to rest on the drive plate during removal. (2) Disconnect negative battery cable.
(3) Disconnect transaxle shift linkage.
(4) Install engine support fixture and support en-
gine (Fig.1).
(5) Remove upper bell housing upper bolts.
(6) Raise vehicle. Remove front wheels. Refer to
Suspension, Group 2 to remove wheel hub nut and
both drive shafts. (7) Remove left plastic splash to gain access to the
transaxle (Fig. 2). (8) Remove torque converter dust shield to gain ac-
cess to torque converter bolts (Fig. 3). (9) Mark torque converter and drive plate with
chalk, for reassembly. Remove torque converter
mounting bolts. (10) Disconnect electrical connectors at transmis-
sion range switch and Park/Neutral Position Switch
(Fig. 4).
Fig. 7 Cooler Line Location
Fig. 1 Engine Support Fixture (Typical)
Ä TRANSAXLE 21 - 99
Page 2060 of 2438

(11) Remove front engine mount insulator and
bracket (Fig. 5). (12) On vehicles equipped with D.I.S. ignition sys-
tem, remove crankshaft position sensor from bell
housing. For installation procedure refer to section
8D of this service manual.
CAUTION: Failure to remove the crankshaft position
sensor from the bell housing could damage the
sensor or torque converter drive plate during trans-
mission removal or installation.
(13) Remove starter bolts and set starter aside. Do
not allow the starter to hang from battery cable (Fig.
6). (14) Position transmission jack securely under
transaxle (Fig. 7). (15) With transmission jack in position, remove
the left transmission mount (Fig. 8). (17) Carefully lower the transaxle assembly from
vehicle (Fig. 9). When installing transaxle, reverse the above proce-
dure.
Fig. 2 Remove Left Splash Shield
Fig. 3 Remove Torque Converter Dust Shield
Fig. 4 Disconnect transmission range switch and Park/Neutral Position Switch
Fig. 5 Remove Front Engine Mount
21 - 100 TRANSAXLE Ä
Page 2105 of 2438

41TE ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTICS INDEX
page page
CCD Bus .............................. 145
Diagnostic Trouble Code Charts ............ 146
Diagnostic Trouble Codes ................. 145
DRB II Scan Tool ....................... 146 General Information
...................... 145
Limp-In Mode .......................... 145
On-Board Diagnostics Information ........... 145
GENERAL INFORMATION
The information in this manual is designed to help
the technician understand and repair the transaxle
with the aid of the built in on-board diagnostics. Chrysler Corporation has developed a com-
plete set of diagnostic manuals which cover the
diagnosis of the 41TE transaxle. They have been
designed to make transaxle diagnosis accurate
and simple. Use these manuals with the DRB II
scan tool and the latest cartridge, when diagnos-
ing transaxle problems.
ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTICS INFORMATION
The 41TE transaxle is controlled and monitored by
the transmission control module. The transmission
control module monitors critical input and output
circuits within the transaxle. Some circuits are tested continuously; others are
checked only under certain conditions. Each circuit
monitored by the transmission control module has a
corresponding fault message assigned to it that can be
read with the DRB II scan tool. If the on-board diagnostic system senses that one of
the circuits is malfunctioning, the corresponding code
is stored in memory. If the malfunction goes away after
the code is stored, the transmission control module will
erase the code after 75 key cycles.
CCD BUS
In order to diagnose the 41TE transaxle, diagnostic
trouble codes in the transmission control module's
memory should be read. Use the Diagnostic Readout
Box (DRB II) scan tool to read codes. If more than one
diagnostic trouble code exists, diagnostic priority
should be given to the most recent code. With CCD bus
bias and communication problems, the DRB II scan
tool displays an appropriate message. Diagnostic
trouble codes might not be accessible until the bus
problem is fixed. The following is a list of probable
causes for a bus problem:
² Open or short to ground/battery in either or both
CCD bus wires (pins 4 and 43).
² Open or short to ground/battery in either or both
41TE transaxle's bias wires (pin 5 and 44) on vehicles
requiring the transaxle to bias the bus.
² Open or short to ground/battery in the diagnostic
connector bus wire. ²
Internal failure of any module connected to the bus.
The CCD bus should have 2.5 volts (+2.5 volts on
CCD+ and -2.5 volts on CCD-). The bus error message displayed by the DRB II scan
tool should be helpful in diagnosing the CCD bus. For more information on diagnosing CCD bus prob-
lems, refer to the 1993 Diagnostic Procedures Manual
(non-communication with the CCD bus). All other
problems refer to the 1993 Body Vehicle Communica-
tions Diagnostic Procedures Manual.
DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES
Diagnostic Trouble Codes are two-digit numbers that
identify which circuit is malfunctioning. A code can be
set for hydraulic and mechanical reasons as well as for
electrical problems. In most cases, codes do not pin-
point which specific component is defective. Diagnostic trouble codes can only be read with
the use of the DRB II scan tool or equivalent.
HARD FAULTS
Any Diagnostic trouble code that comes back within
3 engine starts (reset count 3 or less) is a ``Hard Fault''.
This means that the defect is there every time the
transmission control module checks that circuit.
SOFT FAULTS
A ``Soft Fault'' is one that occurs intermittently. It is
not there every time the transmission control module
checks the circuit. Most soft faults are caused by wiring
or connector problems. Intermittent defects must be
looked for under the specific conditions that caused
them.
LIMP-IN MODE
The transmission control module continuously
checks for electrical and internal transaxle problems.
When a problem is sensed, the transmission control
module stores a diagnostic trouble code. All but twelve
of these codes cause the transaxle to go into the
``Limp-in mode''. While in this mode, electrical power is
taken away from the transaxle. When this happens,
the only transaxle ranges that will function are:
Ä TRANSAXLE 21 - 145
Page 2159 of 2438

gage compartment. If light is visible through a nor-
mally sealed location, water could enter through the
opening.
PRESSURIZED LEAK TEST METHOD
When a water leak into the passenger compartment
can not be detected by water testing, pressurize the
passenger compartment and soap test exterior of the
vehicle. To pressurize the passenger compartment,
close all doors and windows, start engine, and set
heater control to high blower in HEAT position. If
engine can not be started, connect a charger to the
battery to assure adequate voltage to the blower. With
interior pressurized, apply dish detergent solution to
suspected leak area on the exterior of the vehicle.
Apply detergent solution with spray device or soft
bristle brush. If soap bubbles occur at a body seam,
joint, seal or gasket the leak entry point could be at
that location.
WIND NOISE
Wind noise is the result of most air leaks. Air leaks
can be caused by poor sealing, improper body compo-
nent alignment, body seam porosity, or missing plugs
in the engine compartment or door hinge pillar areas.
All body sealing points should be air tight in normal
driving conditions. Moving sealing surfaces will not
always seal air tight under all conditions. At times,
side glass, door, or convertible top seals will allow wind
noise to be noticed in the passenger compartment
during high cross-winds. Over compensating on door,
glass, or top adjustments to stop wind noise that occurs
under severe conditions, can cause premature seal
wear and excessive closing or latching effort. After a repair procedure has been performed, test vehicle to
verify leak has stopped before returning vehicle to use. Wind noise can also be caused by improperly fitted
exterior mouldings or body ornamentation. Loose
mouldings can flutter, creating a buzzing or chattering
noise. An open cavity or protruding edge can create
whistling or howling noise. Inspect the exterior of the
vehicle to verify that these conditions do not exist.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place, body
drains are clear and body components are aligned and
sealed. If component alignment or sealing is necessary,
refer to the appropriate section of this group for proper
procedures.
ROAD TESTING WIND NOISE
(1) Drive the vehicle to verify the general location of
the wind noise. (2) Apply 50 mm (2 in.) masking tape in 150 mm (6
in.) lengths along weatherstrips, weld seams or moul-
dings. After each length is applied drive vehicle. If
noise goes away after a piece of tape is applied, remove
tape, locate and repair defect.
POSSIBLE CAUSE OF WIND NOISE
² Mouldings standing away from body surface can
catch wind and whistle.
² Gaps in sealed areas behind overhanging body
flanges can cause wind rushing sounds.
² Misaligned movable components.
² Missing or improperly installed plugs in pillars.
² Weld burn through holes.
Ä BODY 23 - 3
Page 2169 of 2438

(2) Remove push-in fasteners holding hood latch
cover to radiator closure panel and separate cover
from vehicle. (3) Disconnect hood release cable casing and cable
end from hood latch assembly. Refer to Hood Latch
Removal procedure in this section. (4) Remove hood latch release cable handle attach-
ing bolts from under left lower edge of instrument
panel. (5) Disengage release cable rubber grommet from
engine compartment dash panel behind instrument
panel. (6) Rout cable assembly through engine compart-
ment around battery, under fender lip, under relay
bank, and under wiring harnesses, toward dash
panel. Push cable through access hole in dash panel
under the brake master cylinder, into passenger com-
partment.
HOOD LATCH RELEASE CABLE INSTALLATION
Reverse the preceding operation.
COWL COVER
REMOVAL (FIG. 6)
(1) Raise hood to full up position.
(2) Disconnect windshield washer hoses from wiper
arms. (3) Remove windshield wiper arm assemblies. Re-
fer to Group 8K, Windshield Wiper and Washer Sys-
tems. (4) Remove plastic expanding type fasteners hold-
ing cowl cover to cowl, below windshield. (5) Lift back of cowl cover and slide cover rearward
from under dash panel to hood seal and separate
cover from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
Reverse the preceding operation.
FRONT END SPLASH SHIELDS
FRONT WHEELHOUSE SPLASH SHIELD REMOVAL (FIG. 7)
(1) Hoist vehicle and support on suitable safety
stands. (2) Remove front wheel assembly.
(3) Remove push-in fasteners holding front wheel-
house splash shield to fender opening lip and inner
wheelhouse area. (4) Separate wheelhouse splash shield from vehi-
cle.
FRONT WHEELHOUSE SPLASH SHIELD INSTALLATION
Reverse the preceding operation.
TRANSAXLE SPLASH SHIELD REMOVAL (FIG.7)
(1) Remove one front wheelhouse splash shield
push-in fastener and separate wheelhouse splash
shield from transaxle splash shield. (2) Remove transaxle splash shield attaching bolts
and separate transaxle splash shield from vehicle.
TRANSAXLE SPLASH SHIELD INSTALLATION
Reverse the preceding operation.
ENGINE DRIVE BELT SPLASH SHIELD REMOVAL (FIG. 8)
(1) Hoist vehicle and support on suitable safety
stands. (2) Remove bolts holding engine drive belt splash
shield to right frame rail. (3) Separate drive belt splash shield from vehicle.
ENGINE DRIVE BELT SPLASH SHIELDINSTALLATION
Reverse the preceding operation.
Fig. 5 Hood Latch Release Cable Assembly
Fig. 6 Cowl Cover Assembly
Ä AA-BODY 23 - 13
Page 2170 of 2438

FRONT FENDER
REMOVAL (FIG. 9)
(1) Remove front side marker lamp assembly. Re-
fer to Group 8L, Lamps for instructions. (2) Remove front bumper as necessary to gain
clearance to remove front fender. Refer to Front
Bumper Removal paragraph in this section. (3) Remove front wheelhouse splash shield. Refer
to Front Wheelhouse Splash Shield Removal para-
graph of this section. (4) Remove rocker panel moulding as necessary to
clear front fender. Refer to Body Side Moulding and
Applique Removal paragraph in this section. (5) Remove bolts holding bottom front fender at
rear of wheel opening. (6) Remove bolt holding front fender at rear of
wheelhouse. (7) Remove bolt holding front fender at top of front
door opening. (8) Remove bolts holding front fender to front
lower brace and under radiator closure panel. (9) Remove bolts holding front fender to front of
radiator closure panel. (10) Raise hood and support hood on a suitable
holding device. Mark hinge for installation indexing.
Remove lower hood hinge attaching bolts and sepa-
rate hinge from front fender. Refer to Hood Hinge
Removal paragraph in this section. (11) Remove bolts holding front fender to inner
wheelhouse along hood opening. (12) Separate front fender from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
Reverse the preceding operation. Align front fender
to achiev ea4mm (0.160 in) gap to hood edge and 6
mm (0.240 in) gap to front door edge. All surfaces
across gaps should be flush.
FRONT DOOR TRIM PANEL
DOOR TRIM PANEL WITH POWER WINDOWS REMOVAL (FIG. 10)
(1) Move glass to down position.
(2) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(3) Using a suitable prying tool, lift upward at
front of power window switch bezel and disengage be-
zel from clip in door panel. Disconnect wire connector
from back of switch. (4) Remove door latch handle bezel insert. Discon-
nect power door lock switch wire connector, if
equipped. Remove screws holding handle bezel to
trim panel and separate bezel from door. (5) Remove screw holding armrest pull handle to
door through door latch handle bezel opening. (6) Remove hidden screw from in carpet at rear
lower corner of trim panel. (7) Using a suitable trim clip tool, disengage frog
leg clips at the ends and bottom of trim panel. After
all trim clips are loose, push inward at the top of the
trim panel and lift upward to disengage barb fasten-
ers at top of panel. Separate trim from door.
Fig. 7 Front Wheelhouse and Transaxle Splash Shields
Fig. 8 Engine Drive Belt Splash Shield
Fig. 9 Front Fender Assembly
23 - 14 AA-BODY Ä