battery replacement CHEVROLET DYNASTY 1993 Workshop Manual
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Page 727 of 2438

POWER WINDOWS
CONTENTS
page page
BENCH REPAIR OF REGULATOR AND MOTOR CONVENTIONAL REGULATORS .......... 5
GEAR AND PINION REPLACEMENT AND LUBRICATION ....................... 3
GENERAL INFORMATION .................. 1
MOTOR REPLACEMENT ................... 7
MOTOR REPLACEMENT CONVENTIONAL REGULATORS ....................... 3
MOTOR REPLACEMENTÐFLEX DRIVE REGULATORS ......................... 5 POWER WINDOW CABLE HOUSING/MOTOR RE-
PLACEMENTÐAC and AY BODIES ........ 7
QUARTER WINDOW MOTOR REPLACEMENTÐ AJ BODY ............................. 9
QUARTER WINDOW REPLACEMENTÐ AJ BODY ............................. 8
WINDOW LIFT MOTOR TEST .............. 1
WINDOW LIFT SWITCH TEST .............. 1
WIRING VOLTAGE TEST .................. 1
GENERAL INFORMATION
Front and rear door window lift motors are of the
permanent magnet type. A positive and negative bat-
tery connection to either of the two motor terminals
will cause the motor to rotate in one direction. Re-
versing current through these same two connections
will cause the motor to rotate in the opposite direc-
tion. Each individual motor is grounded through the
master switch by a black wire attached to the left
cowl panel. It is necessary that the window be free to slide up
and down in the glass channels or tubes and tracks.
If the window is not free to move up and down, the
window lift motor will not be able to move the glass. To determine if the glass is free is to disconnect the
regulator from the glass lift plate, and slide the win-
dow up and down by hand. For conventional arm-sec-
tor regulators, after the lift plate is detached from
the glass, it will slide off the regulator drive arm.
Flex-drive regulators may be detached the same way
or by removing one screw holding the flex rack to the
lift plate drive arm.
WIRING VOLTAGE TEST
The following wiring test determines whether or
not voltage is continuous through the body harness
to switch. After removing switch for testing purposes, care-
fully separate multiple terminal block on wiring har-
ness from switch body. With ignition switch ON
connect one lead of test light to black (or gray) wire
terminal and touch other test light lead to tan wire
terminal. If the test light comes on, the wiring cir-
cuit between the battery and switch is functional. If
light does not come on, check 30 amp main fuse (cir- cuit breaker) or for a broken wire. For wiring, spe-
cific connector type and location, refer to Group 8W,
Wiring Diagrams.
WINDOW LIFT SWITCH TEST
For switch testing, remove the switch from its
mounting. Using an ohmmeter, refer to Window
Switch Continuity Charts to determine if continuity
is correct. If the results are not obtained, replace the
switch. AC and AY Bodies are equipped with an Auto-
Down feature. This feature allows the operator to
lower the driver's window without having to hold the
switch in the down position. The Auto-Down feature
can be activated by pressing the down switch past
the first detent (Stop). To test the auto-down feature, operate the window
in the normal up and down mode. If the window
works correctly in the normal mode, but not in the
auto-down mode, replace the switch. To test the window switch (other than Auto-Down
mode), install a known good switch.
WINDOW LIFT MOTOR TEST
(1) Connect positive (+) lead from a test battery to
either of the two motor terminals. (2) Connect negative (-) lead from test battery to
remaining motor terminal. (3) The motor should now rotate in one direction to
either move window up or down. (a) If window happens to already be in full UP
position and motor is connected so as to rotate in
UP direction no movement will be observed. (b) Likewise, motor connected to DOWN direc-
tion rotation, no movement will be observed if win-
dow is already in full DOWN position.
Ä POWER WINDOWS 8S - 1
Page 729 of 2438

(4) Reverse battery leads (steps 1 and 2 above) and
window should now move. If window does not move,
remove motor. See below for motor removal from ve-
hicle. (5) If window moved completely up or down, motor
should be reversed one more time (reverse leads from
step 4) to complete a full window travel inspection.
GEAR AND PINION REPLACEMENT AND
LUBRICATION
The window glass and mechanism have been found
to move freely. The window motor works. But the
glass does not move up or down. The motor gear and
pinion will need to be replaced (Fig. 1).
When gear and pinion assembly is replaced in gear
box, lubrication of gear box, gear pinion and seal is
necessary. In the event there is no lubricant in gear box, fill
with MOPAR multi-mileage lubricant or equivalent.
Apply a liberal amount of lubricant to inside area of
seal marked A as illustrated in Fig. 1 and sealing
surface at center area of gear and pinion coupling.
Also lubricate center gear box shaft and worm gear.
MOTOR REPLACEMENT CONVENTIONAL
REGULATORS
The following procedure describes replacement of a
defective motor without removing window regulator
or detaching any window system components. This
method of motor replacement is not acceptable if any
of window system parts are loosened or removed from
door such as:
² Lift channels
² Up stops
² Tracks and pivot brackets
² Are already loose by deficiency
² Are to be loosened or removed from the door.
Then use method of repair where entire regulator
is removed from door (Fig. 2 through 9).
REMOVAL
(1) Raise window to full UP position and keep it
there at all times while replacing motor. If window is in
any position other than full UP and motor is separated
from spring loaded regulator, then regulator counterbal-
ance spring will tend to propel window upwards.
WARNING:PLACE A WINDOW BLOCK IN DOOR
THAT WILL POSITIVELY PREVENT WINDOW FROM
GOING DOWN. THIS ACTION WILL PREVENT IN-
JURY THAT COULD BE CAUSED BY INCORRECT
INSTALLATION OF COUNTERBALANCE SPRING
OR UPWARD MOVEMENT OF THE WINDOW.
(2) Disconnect wiring connector from motor which
is located about eleven inches from motor. (3) Remove three mounting screws that hold motor
gearbox to regulator. Remove third screw that se-
cures motor tie-down bracket to inner panel if so
equipped. There are three holes in inner panel which
provide access to three mounting screws that secure
gearbox to regulator (Fig. 2).
Fig. 1 Motor Lubrication
Fig. 2 Electric Motor MountingÐConventional Regulators
Fig. 3 Front Door Power WindowÐAA Body
Ä POWER WINDOWS 8S - 3
Page 733 of 2438

(b) Manually lift the window upward with the
unriveted flex drive electric regulator still attached
until the screw can be removed. If more access is
needed, remove the two screws that hold the
T-track to the motor gearbox. This will allow re-
moval of the motor from the T-track.
(5) Remove two screws that fasten the motor gear-
box to the metal T-track. (6) Perform bench test.
BENCH TEST
(1) Connect positive (+) lead from test battery to
either of the two motor terminals. (2) Connect negative (-) lead from test battery to
remaining motor terminal. (3) The motor will now rotate in one direction.
(4) Reverse the battery leads and the motor should
now rotate in the opposite direction. (5) If the motor does not rotate in both directions,
replace the motor.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install new motor on T-track using No. 8-32 X
1/2 screws tighten to 4 N Im (40 in. lbs.) torque.
(2) Feed top of T- track into access hole and point
and rotate it towards the hinge pillar until regulator
motor is approximately horizontal. Then rotate regu-
lator in the opposite direction about a 1/4 turn and
line up bracket tab to inner panel slot. (3) Fasten regulator with the rivet sequence shown
in (Figs. 10 and 11). (4) Actuate the motor until the flex rack is visible
within the access slot. Attach the window and drive arm assembly to the flex rack with the screws.
Tighten screws to 4 N Im (40 in. lbs.) torque.
POWER WINDOW CABLE HOUSING/MOTOR
REPLACEMENTÐAC and AY Bodies
WARNING: REMOVAL OF THE WINDOW LIFT MO-
TOR FROM THE REGULATOR WILL CAUSE THE
ASSIST SPRING TO UNWIND RAPIDLY WITH THE
POTENTIAL OF CAUSING PHYSICAL INJURY. IF
THE WINDOW LIFT MOTOR REQUIRES REPLACE-
MENT, SEE REGULATOR REPLACE CABLE AND
DRUM IN THIS GROUP OF THIS MANUAL.
(1) Remove front door trim panel. Refer to group
23, Body. (2) Disconnect window lift plate from glass (Fig.
15).
(3) Disconnect window track from door.
(4) Disconnect window lift motor and drive cables.
(5) Disconnect electrical connections.
(6) Carefully remove window track, cables and lift
motor assembly from door. (7) For installation reverse above procedures.
MOTOR REPLACEMENT
(1) Refer to Front Door Window Regulator for re-
moval. (2) The door glass must be in the down position.
(3) Tape glass to door frame to hold glass in the up
position. (4) If the window is not in the full up position, re-
move only the motor from the door. (5) Remove nuts from motor and cable housing
(Fig. 16). (6) Make sure motor is facing you before separat-
ing motor from housing. (7) Using a flat tool slowly separate motor from
housing, making sure the cable drum under the mo-
tor stays in cable housing. When motor is fully sep-
arated the assist spring will be completely unwound
(Fig. 17). (8) Remove assist spring by releasing the tabs on
the opposite sides of the spring, do not remove spring
from its case (Fig. 18).
Fig. 14 Rear Door Power WindowÐAP Body
ART: 928s-3; SIZE (1) = 1-3/4h x 3-1/2w
Fig. 15 Cable and Housing/Motor
Ä POWER WINDOWS 8S - 7
Page 737 of 2438

POWER MIRRORS
CONTENTS
page page
AUTOMATIC DAY/NIGHT INSIDE MIRROR .... 7
AUTOMATIC DAY/NIGHT INSIDE MIRROR WITH ULTRALIGHT HEADLAMP CONTROL ....... 7
GENERAL INFORMATION .................. 1
HEATED MIRROR ........................ 2
INSIDE MIRROR/READING LAMPS BULB/LENS REPLACEMENT ........................ 6
INSIDE MIRROR/READING LAMPS REPLACEMENT ........................ 6
MIRROR ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENTÐAA BODY.5
MIRROR ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENTÐ AC AND AY BODIES .................... 5
MIRROR ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENTÐAG BODY.5
MIRROR ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENTÐAJ BODY.5
MIRROR ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENTÐAP BODY.5
MIRROR MOTOR TEST PROCEDURE ........ 2
MIRROR SWITCH REPLACEMENTÐAA BODY . 3
MIRROR SWITCH REPLACEMENTÐAC AND AY BODIES .............................. 4
MIRROR SWITCH REPLACEMENTÐAG AND AJ BODIES .............................. 3
MIRROR SWITCH REPLACEMENTÐAP BODY . 4
MIRROR SWITCH TEST PROCEDURE ....... 2
TEST PROCEDURES ...................... 2
GENERAL INFORMATION
Electrically operated power mirrors are available
on all car lines. The mirrors are controlled by a sin-
gle switch assembly located either on the driver's
door trim panel or on the center console. There are three types of switches currently used,
each use s a L (left) R (right) for mirror selection (Fig.
1). Type I, which uses a rocker for mirror selection
and four buttons for mirror movement direction.
Type II, uses a toggle switch which is rotated clock-
wise for the Right mirror or counterclockwise for the
Left mirror selection, and moved UP, DOWN, LEFT,
or RIGHT for mirror movement direction. Type III, uses a paddle knob which is moved Left or Right for
mirror selection and four buttons for mirror move-
ment direction.
The motors which operate the mirrors are part of
the mirror assembly and cannot be replaced sepa-
rately. All vehicles are equipped with an Ignition-Off
Draw Connector which is used when the vehicles are
originally shipped from the factory. This connector,
which is located near the battery, helps to prevent
battery discharge during storage. For specific connec-
tor type and location, refer Group 8W, Wiring Dia-
grams.
Fig. 1 Power Mirror Switches
Ä POWER MIRRORS 8T - 1
Page 749 of 2438

CONDITION: NO TONE WHEN HEADLAMPS ARE ON AND DRIVER'S DOOR IS OPEN, ANDIGNITION IS OFF
PROCEDURE
(1) Check left door jamb switch for good ground
when driver's door is open. This may be checked at
terminal 1 of 25-way body controller connector. (2) Check for battery feed at terminal 16 of 25-way
body controller connector. (3) Check headlamp switch.
CONDITION: NO TONE WHEN KEY IS LEFT INIGNITION AND DRIVER'S DOOR IS OPEN
PROCEDURE
(1) Check left door jamb switch for good ground
when driver's door is open. This may be checked at
terminal 1 of 25-way body controller connector. (2) Check for battery feed at terminal 16 of 25-way
body controller connector. (3) Check key-in switch.
CONDITION: CHIMES CONTINUE WHENHEADLAMPS ARE TURNED OFF AND/OR KEYIS REMOVED FROM IGNITION
PROCEDURE
Check wiring for a grounded condition between
headlamp switch, key-in switch, and body controller.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
CHIME MODULE REPLACEMENT AA and AP
BODIES
(1) Open glove box door and disconnect check strap.
(2) Disconnect glove box light switch.
(3) Remove screws from glove box assembly and
remove. (4) Remove two screws from chime module mount-
ing bracket (Figs. 9 and 10). (5) Disconnect chime module wiring and remove
module. (6) For installation reverse above procedures.
BODY CONTROLLER REPLACEMENT
Refer to Group 8E, Instrument Panel and Gauges.
SEAT BELT BUCKLE REPLACEMENT
Refer to Group 23, Body of this service manual.
HEADLAMP SWITCH REPLACEMENT
Refer to Group 8E, Instrument Panel and Gauges.
KEY-IN SWITCH REPLACEMENT
The Key-in switch is built into the ignition switch as-
sembly. Should the Key-in switch require service, the
ignition switch assembly must be replaced. Refer to
Group 8D Ignition System of this service manual (Fig.
11).
Fig. 9 Chime Module LocationÐAA Body
Fig. 10 Chime Module Location
Fig. 11 Halo Lamp and Key-In Warning Switch Continuity
Ä CHIME WARNING/REMINDER SYSTEM 8U - 5
Page 755 of 2438

When a fusible link blows it is important to find
out what the problem is. They are placed in the sys-
tem for protection against shorts. Which can be
caused by a component failure or wiring failures. Do
not just replace the fusible link to correct the
problem. When diagnosing a faulty fusible link it is impor-
tant to check the wire carefully. In some instances
the link may be blown and it will not show through
the insulation, the wire should be checked over its
entire length for internal breaks. (1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Cut out the blown portion of the fusible link.
(3) Strip 1 inch of insulation from each end of the
existing fusible link. (4) Place a piece of heat shrink tubing over one
side of the fusible link. Make sure the tubing will be
long enough to cover and seal the entire repair area. (5) Cut a replacement piece of fusible link approx-
imately two inches longer than the piece removed. (6) Remove one inch of insulation from each end of
the replacement fusible link. (7) Spread the strands of wire apart on each of the
exposed wires (Fig. 11 example 1). (8) Push the two ends of the wire together until
the strands of wire are close to the insulation (Fig.
11 example 2). (9) Twist the wires together (Fig. 11 example 3).
(10) Solder the wires together using rosin core type
solder only. Do not use acid core type solder.
(11) Center the heat shrink tubing over the joint
and heat using a heat gun. Heat the joint until the
tubing is tightly sealed and sealant comes out of both
ends of the tubing. (12) Secure the fusible link to the existing ones to
prevent chafing or damage to the insulation. (13) Connect battery and test all affected systems.
WIRING REPAIR
When replacing or repairing a wire, it is important
that the correct gauge be used as shown in the wir-
ing diagrams. The wires must also be held securely
in place to prevent damage to the insulation. (1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Remove 1 inch of insulation from each end the
wire. (3) Place a piece of heat shrink tubing over one
side of the wire. Make sure the tubing will be long
enough to cover and seal the entire repair area. (4) Spread the strands of the wire apart on each
part of the exposed wires (Fig. 11 example 1). (5) Push the two ends of wire together until the
strands of wire are close to the insulation (Fig. 11 ex-
ample 2). (6) Twist the wires together (Fig. 11 example 3).
(7) Solder the connection together using rosin core
type solder only. Do not use acid core solder. (8) Center the heat shrink tubing over the joint
and heat using a heat gun. Heat the joint until the
tubing is tightly sealed and sealant comes out of both
ends of the tubing. (9) Secure the wire to the existing ones to prevent
chafing or damage to the insulation. (10) Connect battery and test all affected systems.
CONNECTOR REPLACEMENT
(1) Disconnect battery.
(2) Disconnect the connector that is to be repaired
from its mating half. (3) Remove connector locking wedge (Fig. 12).
(4) Position the connector locking finger away from
the terminal. Pull on the wire to remove the termi-
nal from the connector (Fig. 13).
Fig. 11 Wire Repair
Fig. 12 Connector Locking Wedge Tab
Ä GENERAL INFORMATION 8W - 5
Page 756 of 2438

(5) Reset the terminal locking tang, if it has one.
(6) Insert the removed wire in the same cavity on
the repair connector. (7) Repeat steps four thru six for each wire in the
connector. Check that all wires are inserted into the
proper cavities. For connector pin out identification
refer to the wiring diagrams. (8) Insert the connector locking wedge into the re-
paired connector. (9) Connect connector to its mating half.
(10) Connect battery and test all affected systems.
CONNECTOR AND TERMINAL ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT
(1) Disconnect Battery.
(2) Disconnect the connector being repaired form
its mating half. (3) Cut off the existing wire connector directly be-
hind the insulator. Remove six inches of tape from
the harness. (4) Stagger cut all wires on the harness side about
1/2 inch apart (Fig. 14). (5) Remove 1 inch of insulation from each wire on
the harness side. (6) Stagger cut the matching wires on the repair
connector assembly in the opposite order as was done
on the harness side of the repair. Allow extra length
for soldered connections. Check that the overall
length is the same as the original (Fig. 14). (7) Remove 1 inch of insulation from each wire.
(8) Place a piece of heat shrink tubing over one
side of the wire. Make sure the tubing will be long
enough to cover and seal the entire repair area. (9) Spread the strands of the wire apart on each
part of the exposed wires (Fig. 11 example 1). (10) Push the two ends of wire together until the
strands of wire are close to the insulation (Fig. 11 ex-
ample 2). (11) Twist the wires together (Fig. 11 example 3). (12) Solder the connection together using rosin
core type solder only. Do not use acid core solder.
(13) Center the heat shrink tubing over the joint
and heat using a heat gun. Heat the joint until the
tubing is tightly sealed and sealant comes out of both
ends of the tubing. (14) Repeat steps 8 thru 13 for each wire.
(15) Re-tape the wire harness starting 1-1/2 inches
behind the connector and 2 inches past the repair. (16) Reconnect the repaired connector.
(17) Connect battery and test all affected systems.
TERMINAL REPLACEMENT
(1) Disconnect battery.
(2) Disconnect the connector being repaired form
its mating half. (3) Remove connector locking wedge (Fig. 12).
(4) Position the connector locking finger away from
the terminal. Pull on the wire to remove the termi-
nal from the connector (Fig. 13). (5) Cut the wire 6 inches from the back of the con-
nector. (6) Remove 1 inch of insulation from the wire on
the harness side. (7) Select a wire from the terminal repair assem-
bly that best matches the color wire being repaired. (8) Cut the repair wire to the proper length and re-
move 1 inch of insulation. (9) Place a piece of heat shrink tubing over one
side of the wire. Make sure the tubing will be long
enough to cover and seal the entire repair area. (10) Spread the strands of the wire apart on each
part of the exposed wires (Fig. 11 example 1). (11) Push the two ends of wire together until the
strands of wire are close to the insulation (Fig. 11 ex-
ample 2). (12) Twist the wires together (Fig. 11 example 3).
(13) Solder the connection together using rosin
core type solder only. Do not use acid core solder.
Fig. 13 Connector Locking Finger and Locking
Wedge
Fig. 14 Stagger Cutting Wires
8W - 6 GENERAL INFORMATION Ä
Page 1579 of 2438

² Drive shaft distress: See Driveshafts in Suspension,
Group 2.
² Any front end structural damage (after repair).
² Insulator replacement.
ENGINE MOUNT INSULATOR ADJUSTMENT
(1) Remove the load on the engine motor mounts by
carefully supporting the engine and transmission as-
sembly with a floor jack. (2) Loosen the right engine mount insulator vertical
fasteners, and the front engine mount bracket to front
crossmember screws and nuts. Left engine mount insulator is sleeved over
shaft and long support bolt to provide lateral
movement adjustment with engine weight re-
moved or not. (3) Pry the engine right or left as required to achieve
the proper drive shaft assembly length. See Drive
Shaft in Suspension Group 2 for driveshaft identifica-
tion and related assembly length measuring. (4) Tighten right engine mount insulator vertical
bolts to 68 N Im (50 ft. lbs.). Then tighten front engine
mount screws and nuts to 54 N Im (40 ft. lbs.) and
center left engine mount insulator. (5) Recheck drive shaft length.
ENGINE ASSEMBLY
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery.
(2) Scribe hood hinge outline on hood and remove
hood. (3) Drain cooling system.
(4) Remove hoses from radiator and engine.
(5) Remove radiator and fan assembly.
(6) Remove air cleaner and hoses.
(7) Remove air conditioning compressor mounting
bolts and set compressor aside, if equipped. (8) Remove power steering pump mounting bolts
and set pump aside (9) Remove oil filter.
(10) Disconnect fuel line, heater hose and acceler-
ator cable. (11) Disconnect all electrical connections and har-
nesses at throttle body and engine. (12) Manual Transmission
(a) Disconnect clutch cable.
(b) Remove transmission case lower cover.
(c) Disconnect exhaust pipe at manifold.
(d) Disconnect starter and lay aside.
(e) Install transmission holding fixture.
(13) Automatic Transmission
(a) Disconnect exhaust pipe at manifold.
(b) Disconnect starter and lay aside.
(c) Remove transmission case lower cover.
(d) Mark flex plate to torque converter.
(e) Remove screws holding torque converter to
flex plate.
(14) Attach C clamp on front bottom of torque con-
verter housing to prevent torque converter from com-
ing out. (15) Install transmission holding fixture.
(16) Remove right inner splash shield (Fig. 5).
(17) Remove ground strap.
(18) To lowerengine separate right engine
bracket from yoke bracket To raiseengine remove
long bolt through yoke and insulator. IF INSULA-
TOR TO RAIL SCREWS ARE TO BE REMOVED,
MARK INSULATOR POSITION ON SIDE RAIL TO
INSURE EXACT INSTALLATION (Fig. 4). (19) Remove transmission case to cylinder block
mounting screws.Fig. 5 Right Inner Splash Shield
Fig. 4 Left Insulator Movement
Ä 2.2/2.5L ENGINE 9 - 13
Page 1635 of 2438

LEFT SIDE MOUNT
(1) Raise vehicle on hoist and remove left front
wheel. (2) Remove inter splash shield.
(3) Support the transmission with a transmission
jack. (4) Remove the insulator thru bolt from the mount.
(5) Remove the transmission mount fasteners and
remove mount. (6) Reverse removal procedure for installation. En-
sure that the slide tube is seated into the rail
bracket guides. Refer to (Fig. 3) for bolt tightening
specifications. (7) Engine mount adjustment, Refer to Engine
Mount Insulator Adjustment of this section.
ENGINE MOUNT RUBBER INSULATORS
Insulator location on (right side) and transmission
bracket (left side) are adjustable to allow right/left
drive train adjustment in relation to drive shaft as-
sembly length. Check and reposition right engine mount insulator
(left engine mount insulator is floating type and will
adjust automatically (Fig. 3). Adjust drive train posi-
tion, if required, for the following conditions:
² Drive shaft distress: See Driveshafts in Suspen-
sion, Group 2.
² Any front end structural damage (after repair).
² Insulator replacement.
ENGINE MOUNT INSULATOR ADJUSTMENT
(1) Remove the load on the engine motor mounts
by carefully supporting the engine and transmission
assembly with a floor jack. (2) Loosen the right engine mount insulator yoke
screw and two turns on yoke nut, then loosen the
front engine mount bracket to front crossmember
screws and nuts. Left engine mount insulator is sleeved over
shaft and long support bolt to provide lateral
movement adjustment with engine weight re-
moved or not. (3) Pry the engine right or left as required to
achieve the proper drive shaft assembly length. See
Drive Shaft in Suspension Group 2 for driveshaft
identification and related assembly length measur-
ing. (4) Tighten right engine mount insulator yoke nut
to 102 N Im (75 ft. lbs.). Then tighten front engine
mount screws and nuts to 54 N Im (40 ft. lbs.) and
center left engine mount insulator. (5) Recheck drive shaft length.
ENGINE ASSEMBLY
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery.
(2) Mark hood position at hinges and remove hood. (3) Drain cooling system. Refer to Cooling System
Group 7 for draining procedure. (4) Disconnect all electrical connections.
(5) Remove coolant hoses from radiator and en-
gine. (6) Remove radiator and fan assembly.
(7) See Fuel System Group 14, For procedures to
release fuel pressure, disconnect fuel lines and accel-
erator cable. (8) Remove air cleaner assembly.
(9) Hoist vehicle and drain engine oil.
(10) Remove air conditioning compressor mounting
bolts and set compressor aside. (11) Disconnect exhaust pipe at manifold.
(12) Remove transmission inspection cover and
mark flex plate to torque converter position. (13) Remove screws holding torque converter to
flex plate and attach C-clamp on bottom of converter
housing to prevent torque converter from coming out. (14) Remove power steering pump mounting bolts
and set pump aside. (15) Remove two lower transmission to block
screws. (16) Remove starter.
(17) Lower vehicles and disconnect vacuum lines
and ground strap. (18) Install transmission holding fixture.
(19) Attach engine lifting hoist and support en-
gine. (20) Remove upper transmission case to block
bolts. (21) See Engine Mounting in (Fig. 2) and separate
mount/insulators as follows: (a) Mark RIGHT insulator on right yoke and en-
gine plate supports. Remove insulator to rails
screws. (b) Remove FRONT engine mount through bolt
and nut.
Fig. 3 Left Insulator Movement
Ä 3.0L ENGINE 9 - 69
Page 1668 of 2438

(15) Install hood.
(16) Connect battery.
(17) Start engine and run until operating temper-
ature is reached. (18) Adjust transmission or linkage if necessary.
ROCKER ARMS AND SHAFT ASSEMBLY
REMOVAL
(1) Remove upper intake manifold assembly. Refer
to Intake and Exhaust Manifolds, Group 11. (2) Disconnect spark plug wires by pulling on the
boot straight out in line with plug. (3) Disconnect closed ventilation system and evap-
oration control system from cylinder head cover. (4) Remove cylinder head cover and gasket.
(5) Remove four rocker shaft bolts and retainers.
(6) Remove rocker arms and shaft assembly.
(7) If rocker arm assemblies are disassembled for
cleaning or replacement. Assemble rocker arms in
their original position.Refer to (Fig. 5) for rocker arm
for positioning on the shaft.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install rocker arm and shaft assemblies with
the stamped steel retainers in the four positions,
tighten to 28 N Im (250 in. lbs.) (Fig. 5).
WARNING: THE ROCKER ARM SHAFT
SHOULD BE TORQUED DOWN SLOWLY,
STARTING WITH THE CENTERMOST BOLTS.
ALLOW 20 MINUTES TAPPET BLEED DOWN
TIME AFTER INSTALLATION OF THE
ROCKER SHAFTS BEFORE ENGINE OPERA-
TION. (2) Clean cylinder head cover gasket surface. In-
spect cover for distortion and straighten if necessary. (3) Clean head rail if necessary. Install a new gas-
ket and tighten cylinder head cover fasteners to 12
N Im (105 in. lbs.).
(4) Install closed crankcase ventilation system and
evaporation control system. (5) Install spark plug wires.
(6) Install upper intake manifold assembly. Refer to
Exhaust Systems and Intake Manifolds Group 11.
CYLINDER HEADS
The alloy aluminum cylinder heads shown in (Fig. 6)
are held in place by 9 bolts. The spark plugs are located
in peak of the wedge between the valves.
REMOVAL
(1) Drain cooling system refer to Cooling System
Group 7 for procedure and disconnect negative battery
cable. Remove intake manifold, and throttle body. Refer to
Group 11 Exhaust System and Intake Manifold. (2) Disconnect coil wires, sending unit wire, heater
hoses and by-pass hose. (3) Remove closed ventilation system, evaporation
control system and cylinder head covers. (4) Remove exhaust manifolds.
(5) Remove rocker arm and shaft assemblies. Re-
move push rods and identify to insure installation
in original locations. (6) Remove the 9 head bolts from each cylinder head
and remove cylinder heads (Fig. 7).
Fig. 5 Rocker Arm Location Left Blank
Fig. 6 Cylinder Head Assembly
Fig. 7 Cylinder Head Bolts Location
9 - 102 3.3/3.8L ENGINE Ä