check engine DODGE NEON 1999 Service Owner's Manual

ENGINE THERMOSTAT TESTING
The thermostat is operated by a wax filled con-
tainer (pellet) which is sealed. When heated coolant
reaches a predetermined temperature the wax pellet
expands enough to overcome the closing spring and
water pump pressure, which forces the valve to open.
Coolant leakage into the pellet will cause a thermo-
stat to fail open. Do not attempt to free up a thermo-
stat with a screwdriver.The thermostat that opens too soon type failure
mode is included in the on-board diagnosis. The
check engine light will not be lit by an open too soon
condition. If it has failed open, a diagnostic trouble
code (DTC) will be set. Do not change a thermostat
for lack of heater performance or temperature gauge
position, unless a DTC is present. See Diagnosis for
other probable causes. Thermostat failing shut is the
normal long term mode of failure, and normally, only
on high mileage vehicles. The temperature gauge will
indicate this. Refer to Diagnosis in this section.
ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT DIAGNOSIS
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
INSUFFICIENT ACCESSORY
OUTPUT DUE TO BELT SLIPPAGE1. Belt too loose. 1. Adjust belt tension.
2. Belt excessively glazed or worn. 2. Replace and tighten as specified.
BELT SQUEAL WHEN
ACCELERATING ENGINE1. Belts too loose. 1. Adjust belt tension.
2. Belts glazed. 2. Replace belts.
BELT CHIRP AT IDLE 1. Belts too loose. 1. Adjust belt tension.
2. Foreign material imbedded in
belt.2. Replace belt.
3. Non-uniform belt. 3. Replace belt.
4. Misaligned pulley(s). 4. Align accessories.
5. Non-uniform groove or eccentric
pulley.5. Replace pulley(s).
BELT ROLLED OVER IN GROOVE
OR BELT JUMPS OFF1. Broken cord in belt. 1. Replace belt.
2. Belt too loose, or too tight. 2. Adjust belt tension.
3. Misaligned pulleys. 3. Align accessories.
4. Non-uniform grooves or eccentric
pulley.4. Replace pulley(s).
PLCOOLING 7 - 13
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

WATER PUMP DIAGNOSIS
A quick flow test to tell whether or not the pump is
working is to see if the heater warms properly. A
defective pump will not be able to circulate heated
coolant through the long heater hose.
Another flow test to help determine pump opera-
tion.
WARNING: DO NOT remove radiator cap if the cool-
ing system is hot or under pressure.
(1) Remove radiator cap.
(2) Remove a small amount of coolant from the
system, start the engine and warm up until thermo-
stat opens. With the thermostat open and coolant
level low you will see if the water pump is pumping
coolant through the system.
COOLING SYSTEM FLOW CHECK
To determine whether coolant is flowing through
the cooling system, use the following procedures:
(1) If engine is cold, idle engine until normal oper-
ating temperature is reached. Then feel the upper
radiator hose. If it is hot, coolant is circulating.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE COOLING SYS-
TEM PRESSURE CAP WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND
UNDER PRESSURE BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS
FROM COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
(2) Remove pressure cap when engine is cold,
remove small amount of coolant Idle engine until
thermostat opens, you should observe coolant flow
while looking down the filler neck. Once flow is
detected install the pressure cap.
RADIATOR FAN CONTROL
Fan control is accomplished two ways. The fan
always runs when the air conditioning compressor
clutch is engaged. In addition to this control, the fan
is turned on by the temperature of the coolant which
is sensed by the coolant temperature sensor which
sends the message to the Powertrain Control Module
(PCM). The (PCM) turns on the fan through the
Solid State Fan Relay. The Solid State Fan Relay is
located on the left front inner frame just behind the
radiator. See Wiring Diagrams Manual for circuity
and diagnostics provided.
Switching through the (PCM) provides fan control
for the following conditions.
²The fan will not run during cranking until the
engine starts no matter what the coolant tempera-
ture is.
²Fan will run when the air conditioning clutch is
engaged and low pressure cutout switch is closed.
²Fan will run at vehicle speeds above about 40
mph only if coolant temperature reaches 110ÉC(230ÉF). It will turn off when the temperature drops
to 104ÉC (220ÉF). At speeds below 40 mph the fan
switches on at 102ÉC (215ÉF) and off at 93ÉC (200ÉF).
Refer to Radiator Fan Control Module Group 14,
Fuel Injection for more information.
ELECTRIC FAN MOTOR TEST
Refer to Powertrain Diagnostic Manual for procedure.
TESTING COOLING SYSTEM FOR LEAKS
The system should be full. With the engine not
running, wipe the filler neck sealing seat clean.
Attach a radiator pressure tester to the filler neck,
as shown in (Fig. 9) and apply 104 kPa (15 psi) pres-
sure. If the pressure drops more than 2 psi in 2 min-
utes, inspect the system for external leaks.
Move all hoses at the radiator and heater while
system is pressurize at 15 psi, since some leaks occur
due to engine rock while driving.
If there are no external leaks after the gauge dial
shows a drop in pressure, detach the tester. Start the
engine, and run the engine to normal operating tem-
perature in order to open the thermostat and allow
the coolant to expand. Reattach the tester. If the nee-
dle on the dial fluctuates it indicates a combustion
leak, usually a head gasket leak.
WARNING: WITH THE PRESSURE TESTER IN
PLACE PRESSURE BUILDS UP QUICKLY. ANY
EXCESSIVE PRESSURE BUILD-UP DUE TO CON-
TINUOUS ENGINE OPERATION MUST BE
RELEASED TO A SAFE PRESSURE POINT. NEVER
PERMIT PRESSURE TO EXCEED 138 kPa (20 psi).
If the needle on the dial does not fluctuate, race
the engine a few times. If an abnormal amount of
coolant or steam is emitted from the tail pipe, it may
indicate a faulty head gasket, cracked engine block,
or cracked cylinder head.
Fig. 9 Pressure Testing Cooling SystemÐTypical
7 - 14 COOLINGPL
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

There may be internal leaks, which can be deter-
mined by removing the oil dipstick. If water globules
appear intermixed with the oil, it indicates an inter-
nal leak in the engine. If there is an internal leak,
the engine must be disassembled for repair.
PRESSURE CAP TO FILLER NECK SEAL
PRESSURE RELIEF CHECK
The pressure cap upper gasket (seal) pressure
relief can be checked by removing the overflow hose
at the radiator filler neck nipple (Fig. 10). Attach the
radiator pressure tester to thefiller neck nipple,
and pump air into the system. The pressure cap
upper gasket should relieve pressure at 69-124 kPa
(10-18 psi), and hold pressure at 55 kPa (8 psi) min-
imum.
WARNING: THE WARNING WORDS DO NOT OPEN
HOT ON THE PRESSURE CAP IS A SAFETY PRE-
CAUTION. WHEN HOT, THE COOLING SYSTEM
BUILDS UP PRESSURE. TO PREVENT SCALDING
OR OTHER INJURY, THE PRESSURE CAP SHOULD
NOT BE REMOVED WHILE THE SYSTEM IS HOT
AND/OR UNDER PRESSURE.
There is no need to remove the pressure cap at any
timeexceptfor the following purposes:
²Check and adjust coolant freeze point²Refill system with new coolant
²Conducting service procedures
²Checking for leaks
WARNING: IF VEHICLE HAS BEEN RUN
RECENTLY, WAIT 15 MINUTES BEFORE REMOVING
CAP. PLACE A SHOP TOWEL OVER THE CAP, AND
WITHOUT PUSHING DOWN, ROTATE IT COUNTER-
CLOCKWISE TO THE FIRST STOP. ALLOW FLUIDS
TO ESCAPE THROUGH THE OVERFLOW TUBE.
WHEN THE SYSTEM STOPS PUSHING COOLANT
AND STEAM INTO THE CRS TANK AND PRESSURE
DROPS, PUSH DOWN ON THE CAP AND REMOVE
IT COMPLETELY. SQUEEZING THE RADIATOR
INLET HOSE WITH A SHOP TOWEL (TO CHECK
PRESSURE) BEFORE AND AFTER TURNING TO
THE FIRST STOP IS RECOMMENDED.
PRESSURE TESTING COOLING SYSTEM
PRESSURE CAP
Dip the pressure cap in water; clean off any depos-
its on the vent valve or its seat, and apply the cap to
end of radiator pressure tester (Fig. 11). Working the
plunger, increase the pressure to 104 kPa (15 psi) on
the gauge. If the pressure cap fails to hold pressure
of at least 97 kPa (14 psi), replace the cap.
CAUTION: The radiator pressure tester is very sen-
sitive to small air leaks that will not cause cooling
system problems. A pressure cap that does not
have a history of coolant loss should not be
replaced just because it leaks slowly when tested
with this tool. Add water to the tool. Turn the tool
upside down, and recheck the pressure cap to con-
firm that the cap is faulty.
If the pressure cap tests properly while posi-
tioned the on radiator pressure tester, but will not
hold pressure or vacuum when positioned on the
filler neck, inspect the filler neck and cap top gas-
ket for irregularities that may prevent the cap from
sealing properly.
LOW COOLANT LEVEL AERATION
²Will cause corrosion in the system.
²High reading shown on the temperature gauge.
²Air in the coolant will also cause loss of flow
through the heater.
²Exhaust gas leaks into the coolant can also
cause the above problems.
DEAERATION
Air can only be removed from the system by gath-
ering under the pressure cap. On the next heat up it
will be pushed past the pressure cap into the CRS
tank by thermal expansion of the coolant. It thenFig. 10 Cooling System Pressure Cap
PLCOOLING 7 - 15
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

escapes to the atmosphere in the CRS tank and is
replaced with solid coolant on cool down.
TEMPERATURE GAUGE INDICATION
At idle the temperature gauge could rise slowly to
about 1/2 gauge travel. The fan will come on and the
gauge could drop to about 1/3 gauge travel, this is
normal.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
COOLANT LEVEL CHECKÐROUTINE
NOTE: Do not remove radiator cap for routine cool-
ant level inspections.
The coolant reserve system provides a quick visual
method for determining the coolant level without
removing the radiator cap. Simply observe, with the
engine idling and warmed up to normal operating
temperature, that the level of the coolant in the
reserve tank (Fig. 12) is between the add and full
marks.
COOLANTÐADDING ADDITIONAL
NOTE: The radiator cap should not be removed.
When additional coolant is needed, it should be
added to the coolant reserve tank. Use only 50/50
concentration of ethylene glycol type antifreeze and
water
COOLANT LEVELÐSERVICING
NOTE: The cooling system is closed and designed
to maintain coolant level to the top of the radiator.When servicing requires a coolant level check in
the radiator, the engine must beoffandnotunder
pressure. Drain several ounces of coolant from the
radiator drain cock while observing the Coolant
Recovery System (CRS) Tank. Coolant level in the
CRS tank should drop slightly. Then remove the radi-
ator cap. The radiator should be full to the top. If
not, and the coolant level in the CRS tank is at the
ADD mark there is a air leak in the CRS system.
Check hose or hose connections to the CRS tank,
radiator filler neck or the pressure cap seal to the
radiator filler neck for leaks.
COOLING SYSTEMÐDRAINING
NOTE: Drain, flush, and fill the cooling system at
the mileage or time intervals specified in Group 0,
Lubrication and Maintenance. If the solution is dirty,
rusty, or contains a considerable amount of sedi-
ment; clean and flush with a reliable cooling system
cleaner. Care should be taken in disposing of the
used engine coolant from your vehicle. Check gov-
ernmental regulations for disposal of used engine
coolant.
Without removing radiator pressure cap and
with system not under pressure:
(1) Shut engine off and turn draincock counter-
clockwise to open (Fig. 13).
(2) The coolant reserve tank should empty first,
then remove the pressure cap. (if not, Refer to Test-
ing Cooling System for leaks).
Fig. 11 Pressure Testing Radiator Cap
Fig. 12 Coolant Recovery System
7 - 16 COOLINGPL
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

COOLING SYSTEMÐREFILLING
First clean system to remove old glycol, see Cooling
System Cleaning.
Fill system using antifreeze described in Coolant
section. Fill 50 percent of capacity with 100 percent
glycol. Then complete filling system with water.
Continue filling system until full, this provides bet-
ter heater performance.Be careful not to spill
coolant on drive belts or the generator.
Fill coolant reserve system to at least the FULL
mark with 50/50 solution. It may be necessary to add
coolant to the reserve tank after three or four warm-
up/cool down cycles to maintain coolant level between
the FULL and ADD marks; if any trapped air was
removed from the system.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
WATER PUMP
REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle on a hoist. Remove right inner
splash shield.
(2) Remove accessory drive belts and power steer-
ing pump. Refer to Accessory Drive Belt service in
this section.
(3) Drain cooling system. Refer to Cooling System
Draining in this section.
(4) Support engine from the bottom and remove
right engine mount.
(5) Remove power steering pump bracket bolts and
set pump and bracket assembly aside. Power steering
lines do not need to be disconnected.
(6) Remove right engine mount bracket.
(7) Remove timing belt and timing belt tensioner.
Refer to Group 9, Engine for procedure.
(8) Remove camshaft sprockets and inner timing
belt cover. Refer to Group 9, Engine for procedure.(9) Remove water pump attaching screws to engine
(Fig. 14).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install new O-ring gasket in water pump body
O-ring groove (Fig. 15). Use small dabs of Mopart
Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant around the water
pump body to secure O-ring in place during installa-
tion.
CAUTION: Make sure O-ring gasket is properly
seated in water pump groove before tightening
screws. An improperly located O-ring may cause
damage to the O-ring and cause a coolant leak.
(2) Assemble pump body to block and tighten
screws to 12 N´m (105 in. lbs.). Pressurize cooling
system to 15 psi with pressure tester and check
water pump shaft seal and O-ring for leaks.
(3) Rotate pump by hand to check for freedom of
movement.
(4) Install inner timing belt cover.
(5) Install timing belt. Refer to Group 9, Engine
for procedures.
(6) Install right engine mount bracket and engine
mount. Refer to Group 9, Engine for procedure.
(7) Fill cooling system. SeeCooling System
Refilling.
(8) Install power steering pump and accessory
drive belts, Refer to Accessory Drive Belts, in this
section.Fig. 13 Draining Cooling System
Fig. 14 Water Pump
Fig. 15 Water Pump Body
PLCOOLING 7 - 17
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)

(9) Perform camshaft and crankshaft timing
relearn procedure as follows:
²Connect the DRB scan tool to the data link
(diagnostic) connector. This connector is located in
the passenger compartment; at the lower edge of
instrument panel; near the steering column.
²Turn the ignition switch on and access the ªmis-
cellaneousº screen.
²Select ªre-learn cam/crankº option and follow
directions on DRB screen.
WATER PUMP INLET TUBE
The inlet tube connects the water pump to the
radiator and heater core. This tube is sealed by a
O-ring and held in place by fasteners to the block.
REMOVAL
CAUTION: Do not use any sharp tools to remove
hoses from inlet tube. This may cause the tube to
leak.
(1) Drain cooling system. Refer to procedure out-
lined in this section.
(2) Remove upper radiator hose to access the hose
connections at the inlet tube.
(3) Remove lower radiator hose and heater hose
from the inlet tube (Fig. 16).
(4) Remove the two fasteners that hold the inlet
tube to the block and one fastener that holds the
intake manifold to inlet tube.
(5) Rotate tube while removing the tube from the
engine block (Fig. 17).
INSTALLATION
(1) Inspect the O-ring for damage before installing
the tube into the cylinder block (Fig. 17).
(2) Lube O-ring with coolant and install into the
cylinder block opening.
(3) Install two fasteners to the engine block and
the one fastener to the intake manifold. Tighten fas-
teners to 12 N´m (105 in. lbs.).
(4) Connect lower radiator hose and heater hose to
inlet tube.
(5) Install upper radiator hose.
(6) Fill cooling system. Refer to procedure outlined
in this section.
(7) Pressure system to 104 kPa (15 psi) to check
for leaks.
ENGINE THERMOSTAT
REMOVAL
(1) Drain cooling system to the thermostat level or
below.(2) Remove coolant recovery system (CRS) hose
and thermostat/engine outlet connector bolts (Fig. 18)
or (Fig. 19).
(3) Remove thermostat an O-ring assembly, and
clean sealing surfaces.
INSTALLATION
(1) Place the new thermostat assembly into the
thermostat housing/outlet connector. Align vent with
notch in cylinder head.
(2) Install thermostat housing/outlet connector
onto cylinder head and tighten bolts to 12.5 N´m (110
in. lbs.). Connect the coolant recovery system (CRS)
hose.
(3) Refill cooling system (seeRefilling System).
Fig. 16 Water Pump Inlet Tube Hose Connections
Fig. 17 Water Pump Inlet Tube
7 - 18 COOLINGPL
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

(5) Connect automatic transmission hoses, if
equipped. Tighten hose clamps to 4 N´m (35 in. lbs.).
(6) Slide fan module down into clip(s) on lower
radiator flange (Fig. 21). For dual fan application
install the right fan module first and then the left
fan module. Install retaining screws and tighten to
7.5 N´m (65 in. lbs.).
(7) Connect the cooling fan motor electrical connec-
tor(s).
(8) Install upper radiator hose. Align the hose and
position the clamp so they will not interfere with the
engine or the hood.
(9) For vehicles equipped with dual fans: Install
the battery tray and battery.
(10) Connect negative cable to battery.
(11) Fill cooling system with coolant. Refer to
Cooling System Refillingin this section.
(12) Operate engine until it reaches normal oper-
ating temperature. Check cooling system and auto-
matic transmission for correct fluid levels.
RADIATOR DRAINCOCK
REMOVAL
(1) Turn the drain cock stem counterclockwise to
unscrew the stem. When the stem is unscrewed to
the end of the threads, pull the stem (Fig. 23) from
the radiator tank.
INSTALLATION
(1) Push the draincock assembly body into the
tank opening.
(2) Tighten the draincock stem by turning clock-
wise to 2.0-2.7 N´m (18-25 in. lbs.).
RADIATOR FANS AND MOTOR
All models use a single speed electric motor driven
cooling system fans. The fan modules includes a
motor, fan blade, and support shroud. The module is
fastened to the radiator by screws.
REMOVAL FAN MODULE
(1) Disconnect fan motor leads from module.
(2) Remove fan module fasteners from radiator
(Fig. 24).
FAN BLADE
There are no repairs to be made to the fan. If the
fan is warped, cracked, or otherwise damaged, it
Fig. 21 Fan Module Mounting
Fig. 22 A/C Condenser to Radiator Mounting Screws
Fig. 23 Draincock
Fig. 24 Servicing Fan Module
7 - 20 COOLINGPL
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

NOTE: BLACK OR DARK=0to75%state-of-charge
The battery is INADEQUATELY charged and must
be charged until green dot is visible, (12.4 volts or
greater) before the battery is tested or returned to
use. Refer to Causes of Battery Discharging in this
Group for more information.
NOTE: CLEAR COLOR = Replace Battery
WARNING: DO NOT CHARGE, ASSIST BOOST,
LOAD TEST, OR ADD WATER TO THE BATTERY
WHEN CLEAR COLOR DOT IS VISIBLE. PERSONAL
INJURY MAY OCCUR.
A clear color dot shows electrolyte level in battery
is below the test indicator (Fig. 1). Water cannot be
added to a maintenance free battery. The battery
must be replaced. A low electrolyte level may be
caused by an over charging condition. Refer to Gen-
erator Test Procedures on Vehicle.
CAUSES OF BATTERY DISCHARGING
It is normal to have a small 5 to 25 milliamperes
continuous electrical draw from the battery. This
draw will take place with the ignition in the OFF
position, and the courtesy, dome, storage compart-
ments, and engine compartment lights OFF. The con-
tinuous draw is due to various electronic features or
accessories that require electrical current with the
ignition OFF to function properly. When a vehicle is
not used over an extended period of approximately 20
days the IOD fuse should be pulled. The fuse is
located in the power distribution center. removal of
this fuse will reduce the level of battery discharge.
Refer to the Battery Diagnosis and Testing Table for
proper diagnosis.
ABNORMAL BATTERY DISCHARGING
²Corroded battery posts, cables or terminals.
²Loose or worn generator drive belt.
²Electrical loads that exceed the output of the
charging system due to equipment or accessories
installed after delivery.
²Slow driving speeds in heavy traffic conditions
or prolonged idling with high-amperage electrical
systems in use.
²Defective electrical circuit or component causing
excess Ignition Off Draw (IOD). Refer to Battery
Ignition Off Draw (IOD).
²Defective charging system.
²Defective battery.
BATTERY IGNITION OFF DRAW (IOD)
High current draw on the battery with the ignition
OFF will discharge a battery. After a dead battery is
recharged, the vehicle ignition off draw (IOD) shouldbe checked. To determine if a high current draw con-
dition exists first check the vehicle with a test lamp.
(1) Verify that all electrical accessories are OFF.
²Remove key from ignition switch
²Turn off all lights
²Trunk lid is closed
²Engine compartment hood lamp is disconnected
or lamp removed
²Glove box door is closed
²Sun visor vanity lights are OFF
²All doors are closed
²Allow the ignition key lamp system to time out
in approximately 30 seconds, if equipped.
(2) Disconnect battery negative cable (Fig. 4).
(3) Connect a 12 Volt test lamp, with a cold resis-
tance of 5-7 ohms, between the battery negative cable
clamp and the negative post (Fig. 5). If test lamp
goes out system is OK. If test lamp lights and stays
ON, go to Test Lamp Stays ON procedure.
TEST LAMP STAYS ON
There is either a short circuit or a fault in an elec-
tronic module. Two fuses in the Power Distribution
Center (PDC) feed the modules with ignition off
draw.
²Interior lamps fuse (10 Amp) (IOD) PDC.
²Fuel pump fuse (20 Amp) in PDC
(1) Remove interior lamp and fuel pump fuses. By
removing these fuses all ignition off draw from the
vehicle electronics will be disconnected. The test
lamp should go out. If test lamp goes out go to Step
2. If test lamp does not go out there is a current
draw or short circuit. Refer to Group 8W, Wiring Dia-
grams.
(2) Install the fuel pump fuse. If test lamp lights,
there is a current draw or short circuit in the A14
wiring circuit feed.
(a) Disconnect Powertrain Control Module.
(b) If test lamp goes out, replace Powertrain
Control Module.
(c) If test lamp does not go out, there is a cur-
rent draw or short circuit in the A14 circuit feed.
Refer to Group 8W, Wiring Diagrams.
(3) Install the interior lamp fuse. If test lamp
lights, there is a current draw or short circuit in the
M01 circuit. Refer to Group 8W, Wiring Diagrams. If
test lamp stays out, go to Step 4
(4) Use a multi-meter that has at least a range of
200 milliamperes. Install meter between the battery
negative cable and battery negative post (Fig. 6).
Carefully remove the test lamp without disconnecting
the meter. After all modules time-out the total vehi-
cle IOD should be less than 10 milliamperes. If igni-
tion off draw is more than 10 milliamperes go to Step
5.
(5) Remove both fuses from the Power Distribution
Center:
PLBATTERY 8A - 3
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

(1) Connect a volt-ampere tester to the battery ter-
minals (Fig. 7). Refer to the operating instructions
provided with the tester being used.
(2) To disable the ignition and fuel systems, dis-
connect the Automatic Shutdown Relay (ASD). The
ASD relay is located in the Power Distribution Cen-
ter (PDC). Refer to the PDC cover for proper relay
location. The 2.5L Diesel Engine, to disable the
engine from starting, disconnect wire connector from
the Fuel Solenoid.
(3) Verify that all lights and accessories are OFF,
and the transmission shift selector is in the PARKposition or with the clutch pedal depressed and SET
parking brake.
CAUTION: Do not overheat the starter motor or
draw the battery voltage below 9.6 volts during
cranking operations.
(4) Rotate and hold the ignition switch in the
START position. Observe the volt-ampere tester (Fig.
6).
²If voltage reads above 9.6 volts, and amperage
draw reads above 280 amps or the Diesel engine
above 450 amps, check for engine seizing or faulty
starter.
²If voltage reads 12.4 volts or greater and amper-
age reads 0 to 10 amps, check for corroded cables
and/or bad connections.
²Voltage below 9.6 volts and amperage draw
above 300 amps or Diesel engine above 500 amps,
the problem is the starter. Replace the starter refer
to starter removal.
(5) After the starting system problems have been
corrected, verify the battery state-of-charge and
Fig. 6 Volt Ampere Tester
Fig. 7 Volt-Ampere Tester Connections
Fig. 4 Test Starter Motor Ground
Fig. 5 Test Battery Positive Cable Resistance
PLSTARTING 8B - 3
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

STARTING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
STARTER FAILS TO
ENGAGE.1. Battery discharged or faulty.
2. Starting circuit wiring faulty.
3. Starter relay faulty.
4. Ignition switch faulty.
5. Park/Neutral position switch
(auto trans) faulty or mis-adjusted.
6. Clutch pedal position switch
(man trans) faulty.
7. Starter solenoid faulty.
8. Starter assembly faulty.1. Refer to Group 8A, Battery. Charge or replace
battery, if required.
2. Refer to Feed Circuit Resistance Test and
Feed Circuit Test in this section.
3. Refer to Relay Test, in this section. Replace
relay, if necessary.
4. Refer to Ignition Switch Test, in Group 8D
Ignition System or Group 8W, Wiring Diagrams.
Replace switch, if necessary.
5. Refer Park/Neutral Position Switch Test, in
Group 21, Transaxle. Replace switch, if
necessary.
6. Refer to Clutch Pedal Position Switch Test, in
Group 6, Clutch. Replace switch, if necessary.
7. Refer to Solenoid Test, in this section.
Replace starter assembly, if necessary.
8. If all other starting system components and
circuits check OK, replace starter assembly.
STARTER ENGAGES,
FAILS TO TURN
ENGINE.1. Battery discharged or faulty.
2. Starting circuit wiring faulty.
3. Starter assembly faulty.
4. Engine seized.1. Refer to Group 8A, Battery. Charge or replace
battery as necessary.
2. Refer to the Feed Circuit Resistance Test and
the Feed Circuit Test in this section. Repair as
necessary.
3. If all other starting system components and
circuits check OK, replace starter assembly.
4. Refer to Group 9 Engine, for diagnostic and
service procedures.
STARTER ENGAGES,
SPINS OUT BEFORE
ENGINE STARTS.1. Broken teeth on starter ring gear.
2. Starter assembly faulty.1. Remove starter. Inspect ring gear and replace
if necessary.
2. If all other starting system components and
circuits check OK, replace starter assembly.
STARTER DOES NOT
DISENGAGE.1. Starter improperly installed.
2. Starter relay faulty.
3. Ignition switch faulty.
4. Starter assembly faulty.1. Install starter. Tighten starter mounting
hardware to correct torque specifications.
2. Refer to Relay Test, in this section. Replace
relay, if necessary.
3. Refer to Ignition Switch Test, in Group 8D,
Ignition System. Replace switch, if necessary.
4. If all other starting system components and
circuits check OK, replace starter assembly.
PLSTARTING 8B - 5
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)