oil dipstick DODGE NEON 1999 Service Repair Manual

There may be internal leaks, which can be deter-
mined by removing the oil dipstick. If water globules
appear intermixed with the oil, it indicates an inter-
nal leak in the engine. If there is an internal leak,
the engine must be disassembled for repair.
PRESSURE CAP TO FILLER NECK SEAL
PRESSURE RELIEF CHECK
The pressure cap upper gasket (seal) pressure
relief can be checked by removing the overflow hose
at the radiator filler neck nipple (Fig. 10). Attach the
radiator pressure tester to thefiller neck nipple,
and pump air into the system. The pressure cap
upper gasket should relieve pressure at 69-124 kPa
(10-18 psi), and hold pressure at 55 kPa (8 psi) min-
imum.
WARNING: THE WARNING WORDS DO NOT OPEN
HOT ON THE PRESSURE CAP IS A SAFETY PRE-
CAUTION. WHEN HOT, THE COOLING SYSTEM
BUILDS UP PRESSURE. TO PREVENT SCALDING
OR OTHER INJURY, THE PRESSURE CAP SHOULD
NOT BE REMOVED WHILE THE SYSTEM IS HOT
AND/OR UNDER PRESSURE.
There is no need to remove the pressure cap at any
timeexceptfor the following purposes:
²Check and adjust coolant freeze point²Refill system with new coolant
²Conducting service procedures
²Checking for leaks
WARNING: IF VEHICLE HAS BEEN RUN
RECENTLY, WAIT 15 MINUTES BEFORE REMOVING
CAP. PLACE A SHOP TOWEL OVER THE CAP, AND
WITHOUT PUSHING DOWN, ROTATE IT COUNTER-
CLOCKWISE TO THE FIRST STOP. ALLOW FLUIDS
TO ESCAPE THROUGH THE OVERFLOW TUBE.
WHEN THE SYSTEM STOPS PUSHING COOLANT
AND STEAM INTO THE CRS TANK AND PRESSURE
DROPS, PUSH DOWN ON THE CAP AND REMOVE
IT COMPLETELY. SQUEEZING THE RADIATOR
INLET HOSE WITH A SHOP TOWEL (TO CHECK
PRESSURE) BEFORE AND AFTER TURNING TO
THE FIRST STOP IS RECOMMENDED.
PRESSURE TESTING COOLING SYSTEM
PRESSURE CAP
Dip the pressure cap in water; clean off any depos-
its on the vent valve or its seat, and apply the cap to
end of radiator pressure tester (Fig. 11). Working the
plunger, increase the pressure to 104 kPa (15 psi) on
the gauge. If the pressure cap fails to hold pressure
of at least 97 kPa (14 psi), replace the cap.
CAUTION: The radiator pressure tester is very sen-
sitive to small air leaks that will not cause cooling
system problems. A pressure cap that does not
have a history of coolant loss should not be
replaced just because it leaks slowly when tested
with this tool. Add water to the tool. Turn the tool
upside down, and recheck the pressure cap to con-
firm that the cap is faulty.
If the pressure cap tests properly while posi-
tioned the on radiator pressure tester, but will not
hold pressure or vacuum when positioned on the
filler neck, inspect the filler neck and cap top gas-
ket for irregularities that may prevent the cap from
sealing properly.
LOW COOLANT LEVEL AERATION
²Will cause corrosion in the system.
²High reading shown on the temperature gauge.
²Air in the coolant will also cause loss of flow
through the heater.
²Exhaust gas leaks into the coolant can also
cause the above problems.
DEAERATION
Air can only be removed from the system by gath-
ering under the pressure cap. On the next heat up it
will be pushed past the pressure cap into the CRS
tank by thermal expansion of the coolant. It thenFig. 10 Cooling System Pressure Cap
PLCOOLING 7 - 15
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

cause of low compression unless some malfunc-
tion is present.
(11) Clean or replace spark plugs as necessary
and adjust gap as specified in Group 8, Electrical.
Tighten to specifications.
(12) Test resistance of spark plug cables. Refer to
Group 8, Electrical Ignition System Secondary Cir-
cuit Inspection.
(13) Test coil output voltage, primary and second-
ary resistance. Replace parts as necessary. Refer to
Group 8, Electrical Ignition System.
(14) Check fuel pump pressure at idle and differ-
ent RPM ranges. Refer to Group 14, Fuel System for
Specifications.
(15) The air filter elements should be replaced as
specified in Group 0, Lubrication and Maintenance,.
(16) Inspect crankcase ventilation system as out
lined in Group 0, Lubrication and Maintenance. For
emission controls see Group 25, Emission Controls
for service procedures.
(17) Inspect and adjust accessory belt drives refer-
ring to Group 7, Cooling System, Accessory Drive
Belts for proper adjustments.
(18) Road test vehicle as a final test.
CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE
TEST
The combustion pressure leakage test provides an
accurate means for determining engine condition.
Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect:
²Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seat-
ing).
²Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water
jacket.
²Any causes for combustion/compression pressure
loss.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE RADIATOR CAP
WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE
BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN
OCCUR.
Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO
NOT install the radiator cap.
Start and operate the engine until it attains nor-
mal operating temperature, then turn the engine
OFF.
Clean spark plug recesses with compressed air.
Remove the spark plugs.
Remove the oil filler cap.
Remove the air cleaner.
Calibrate the tester according to the manufactur-
er's instructions. The shop air source for testing
should maintain 483 kPa (70 psi) minimum, 1 379
kPa (200 psi) maximum and 552 kPa (80 psi) recom-
mended.Perform the test procedures on each cylinder
according to the tester manufacturer's instructions.
While testing, listen for pressurized air escaping
through the throttle body, tailpipe and oil filler cap
opening. Check for bubbles in the radiator coolant.
All gauge pressure indications should be equal,
with no more than 25% leakage.
FOR EXAMPLE:At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pres-
sure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be main-
tained in the cylinder.
LASH ADJUSTER (TAPPET) NOISE DIAGNOSIS
A tappet-like noise may be produced from several
items. Check the following items.
(1) Engine oil level too high or too low. This may
cause aerated oil to enter the adjusters and cause
them to be spongy.
(2) Insufficient running time after rebuilding cylin-
der head. Low speed running up to 1 hour may be
required.
(3) During this time, turn engine off and let set for
a few minutes before restarting. Repeat this several
times after engine has reached normal operating
temperature.
(4) Low oil pressure.
(5) The oil restrictor pressed into the vertical oil
passage to the cylinder head is plugged with debris.
(6) Air ingested into oil due to broken or cracked
oil pump pick up.
(7) Worn valve guides.
(8) Rocker arm ears contacting valve spring
retainer.
(9) Rocker arm loose, adjuster stuck or at maxi-
mum extension and still leaves lash in the system.
(10) Faulty lash adjuster.
a. Check lash adjusters for sponginess while
installed in cylinder head. Depress part of rocker
arm over adjuster. Normal adjusters should feel very
firm. Spongy adjusters can be bottomed out easily.
b. Remove suspected rocker arms (sohc) or lash
adjuster (dohc) and replace.
INSPECTION (ENGINE OIL LEAKS IN GENERAL)
Begin with a through visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light.
9 - 8 ENGINEPL
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair per service manual instructions.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24km (15 miles), and
repeat inspection.
(5)If the oil leak source is not positively
identified at this time, proceed with the air leak
detection test method as follows:
(6) Disconnect the fresh air hose (makeup air) at
the cylinder head cover and plug or cap the nipple on
the cover.
(7) Remove the PCV valve hose from the cylinder
head cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve nipple on the
cover.
(8) Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and
regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kpa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
(9) Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provide the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
(10) If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area,
refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area
Leak.
(11) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air sup-
ply and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps.
Install the PCV valve and breather cap hose. Proceed
to next step.
(12) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area
using a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. Thefollowing steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak. If a leak is
present in this area remove transmission for further
inspection.
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, oil galley cup
plug, bedplate to cylinder block mating surfaces
and seal bore. See proper repair procedures for
these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crank-
case as outlined in the, Inspection (Engine oil Leaks
in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified. Refer to Rear
Crankshaft Seals, for proper replacement procedures.
PLENGINE 9 - 9
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

NOTE: Transaxle operation requirements are differ-
ent for each vehicle and engine combination. Some
internal parts will be different to provide for this.
Therefore, when replacing parts, refer to the seven
digit part number stamped on rear of the transaxle
oil pan flange.
Within this transaxle, there are three primary
areas:
(1) Main center line plus valve body.
(2) Transfer shaft center line (includes governor
and parking sprag).
(3) Differential center line.
Center distances between the main rotating parts
in these three areas are held precise to maintain a
low noise level.
The torque converter, transaxle area, and differen-
tial are housed in an integral aluminum die casting.
The differential oil sump is common with the
transaxle sump. Separate filling of the differen-
tial is NOT necessary.
The torque converter is attached to the crankshaft
through a flexible driving plate. Cooling of the con-
verter is accomplished by circulating the transaxle
fluid through a remote cooler. There are two types of
coolers used. An oil-to-water type cooler located in
the radiator side tank and/or an oil-to-air heat
exchanger. The torque converter assembly is a sealed
unit that cannot be disassembled.
The transaxle fluid is filtered by an internal filter
attached to the lower side of the valve body assembly.
Engine torque is transmitted to the torque con-
verter and then through the input shaft to multiple-
disc clutches in the transaxle. The power flow
depends on the application of the clutches and bands.
Refer to Elements in Use Chart in Diagnosis and
Tests section.
The transaxle consists of:
²Two multiple-disc clutches
²An overrunning clutch
²Two servos
²A hydraulic accumulator
²Two bands
²Two planetary gear sets
This provides three forward ratios and a reverse
ratio. The common sun gear of the planetary gear
sets is connected to the front clutch by a driving
shell. The driving shell is splined to the sun gear and
front clutch retainer. The hydraulic system consists
of an oil pump and a single valve body which con-
tains all of the valves except the governor valves.
The transaxle sump and differential sump are both
vented through the dipstick. Output torque from the
main center line is delivered through helical gears to
the transfer shaft. This gear set is a factor in the
transaxle final drive (axle) ratio. The shaft also car-
ries the governor and parking sprag. An integral heli-cal gear on the transfer shaft drives the differential
ring gear. The final drive gearing is completed with
one of two gear ratios; 2.98 or 3.19 depending on
model and application.
FLUID LEVEL AND CONDITION
NOTE: The transmission and differential sump have
a common oil sump with a communicating opening
between the two.
The torque converter fills in both the P (Park) and
N (Neutral) positions. Place the selector lever in P
(Park) to be sure that the fluid level check is accu-
rate.The engine should be running at idle
speed for at least one minute, with the vehicle
on level ground. This will ensure complete oil
level stabilization between differential and
transmission.The fluid should be at normal operat-
ing temperature (approximately 82É C. or 180É F.).
The fluid level is correct if it is in the HOT region
(cross-hatched area) on the dipstick.
Low fluid level can cause a variety of conditions,
because it allows the pump to take in air along with
the fluid. As in any hydraulic system, air bubbles
make the fluid spongy therefore, pressures will be
low and will build up slowly.
Improper filling also can raise the fluid level too
high. When the transaxle has too much fluid, the
gears churn up foam and cause the same conditions
that occur with a low fluid level.
In either case, the air bubbles can cause overheat-
ing, fluid oxidation, and varnishing. This can inter-
fere with normal valve, clutch, and servo operation.
Foaming also can result in fluid escaping from the
transaxle dipstick, where it may be mistaken for a
leak.
Along with fluid level, it is important to check the
condition of the fluid. When the fluid smells burned,
or is contaminated with metal or friction material
particles, a complete transaxle overhaul is needed.
Be sure to examine the fluid on the dipstick closely.
If there is any doubt about its condition, drain out a
sample for a double check.
SELECTION OF LUBRICANT
It is important that the proper lubricant be used in
these transmissions. Mopar ATF PLUS 3 (Automatic
Transmission Fluid- type 7176) should be used to aid
in ensuring optimum transmission performance. It is
important that the transmission fluid be maintained
at the prescribed level using the recommended fluids.
SPECIAL ADDITIVES
Chrysler Corporation does not recommend the
addition of any fluids to the transmission, other than
that fluid listed above. An exception to this policy is
PLTRANSAXLE 21 - 41
GENERAL INFORMATION (Continued)

LOW AND REVERSE SERVO (REAR)
Direct air pressure into LOW/REVERSE SERVO
APPLY passage. Operation of servo is indicated by a
tightening of rear band. Spring tension on servo pis-
ton should release the band.
If clutches and servos operate properly, no upshift
indicates that a malfunction exists in the valve body.
FLUID LEAKAGE-TRANSAXLE TORQUE
CONVERTER HOUSING AREA
(1) Check for source of leakage.
(2) Since fluid leakage near the torque converter
area may be from an engine oil leak, the area should
be checked closely. Factory fill fluid is dyed red and,
therefore, can be distinguished from engine oil.
(3) Prior to removing the transaxle, perform the
following checks:
(4) When leakage is determined to originate from
the transaxle, check fluid level prior to removal of
the transaxle and torque converter.
(5) High oil level can result in oil leakage out the
vent in the dipstick. If the fluid level is high, adjust
to proper level.
(6) After performing this operation, inspect for
leakage. If a leak persists, perform the followingoperation on the vehicle. This will determine if the
torque converter or transaxle is leaking.
TORQUE CONVERTER LEAKAGE
Possible sources of torque converter leakage are:
²Torque converter weld leaks at the outside diam-
eter (peripheral) weld
²Torque converter hub weld
²Torque converter impeller shell cracked adjacent
to hub
²At drive lug welds
NOTE: Hub weld is inside and not visible. Do not
attempt to repair. Replace torque converter.
INTERLOCK SYSTEM OPERATION CHECK
(1) Place shifter in PARK, the ignition switch
should rotate freely from OFF to LOCK position.
When the shifter is moved to the DRIVE position,
the ignition switch should not rotate from OFF to
LOCK.
(2) Moving shifter out of PARK should be possible
only when ignition switch is in the OFF or the RUN
position. Movement of the shifter from the PARK
Fig. 5 Air Pressure Tests
PLTRANSAXLE 21 - 55
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

position should not be possible when the ignition
switch is in the LOCK or the ACCESSORY position.
(3) If the interlock system, operates in any way
other than as described above, repair of the interlock
system is required. See Adjustment and Repair pro-
cedures in this section for the required procedures.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
FLUID AND FILTER CHANGE
When the factory fill fluid is changed, only fluids
labeled MOPARtATF PLUS 3 (Automatic Transmis-
sion fluid) Type 7176 should be used.
If the transaxle is disassembled for any reason, the
fluid and filter should be changed.
30,000 MILE TRANSAXLE OIL CHANGE
When a vehicle attains 30,000 miles on its odome-
ter it is recommended that the transaxle oil be
changed. To change the oil, use the procedure that
follows:
It is recommended that a transaxle fluid exchanger
(ATF 2000+ or equivalent) be used to replace the
used fluid in the transaxle. If a fluid exchanger is not
available use a fluid suction pump (Vaculayor equiv-
alent) to draw the fluid out of the dipstick tube. If a
fluid suction pump is not available remove the oil
pan and drain the fluid.
CAUTION: Chrysler Corporation does not recom-
mend using any fluid exchanger that introduces
additives into the transaxle.
TRANSAXLE FLUID EXCHANGER METHOD
(1) To perform the transaxle fluid exchange, the
transaxle must be at operating temperature. Drive
the vehicle till it reaches full operating temperature.
(2) Verify that the fill tank on the transaxle fluid
exchanger (ATF 2000+ or equivalent) is clean and
dry.
(3) Fill the tank to the recommended fill capacity
with Mopar ATF Plus 3 Type 7176.
(4) Hookup the vehicle to the machine following
the manufacturers instructions. Perform the
exchange procedure following the instructions pro-
vided with the machine.
(5) Once machine has completed the fluid
exchange. Check the fluid level and condition and fill
to proper level with Mopar ATF Plus 3 Type 7176.
NOTE: Verify that the transaxle cooler lines are
tightened to proper specifications. Cooler line
torque specification is 2 N²m (18 in. lbs.).DIPSTICK TUBE FLUID SUCTION METHOD
(1) When performing the fluid suction method,
make sure the transaxle is at full operating temper-
ature.
(2) To perform the dipstick tube fluid suction
method, use a suitable fluid suction device (Vaculay
or equivalent).
(3) Insert the fluid suction line into the dipstick
tube.
NOTE: Verify that the suction line is inserted to the
lowest point of the transaxle oil pan. This will
ensure complete evacuation of the fluid in the pan.
(4) Follow the manufacturers recommended proce-
dure and evacuate the fluid from the transaxle.
(5) Remove the suction line from the dipstick tube.
(6) Add 4 Quarts of Mopar ATF Plus 3 Type 7176
transaxle fluid.
(7) Start the engine and allow it to idle for a min-
imum of one minute. With the parking brake applied,
press your foot on the service brake and cycle the
transaxle from park to all gear positions ending in
neutral or park.
(8) Check the transaxle fluid level and add an
appropriate amount to bring the transaxle fluid level
to 3mm (1/8 in.) below the ADD mark on the dip-
stick.
(9) Recheck the fluid level after the transaxle is at
normal operating temperature. The level should be in
the HOT range.
TRANSAXLE OIL PAN DROP METHOD
This procedure involves removing the transaxle oil
pan to drain the transaxle fluid.
(1) Bring the vehicle up to normal operating tem-
perature. Drive the vehicle a minimum of 10 miles.
(2) Raise the vehicle on the hoist.
(3) Loosen the transaxle oil pan and drain the
fluid into a suitable container.
(4) Remove the pan and clean all sealant from the
pan and transaxle mating surfaces. Clean the mag-
net and the inside of the pan.
(5) Apply a 1/8 inch bead of Mopar RTV Sealant to
the mounting flange of the transaxle oil pan. Apply
RTV Sealant to the underside of the attaching bolts.
Attach the oil pan to the transaxle. Tighten the bolts
to 19 N²m (165 in. lbs.).
(6) Lower the vehicle and add 4 Quarts of Mopar
ATF Plus 3 Type 7176 transaxle fluid.
(7) Start the engine and allow it to idle for a min-
imum of one minute. With the parking brake applied,
press your foot on the service brake and cycle the
transaxle from park to all gear positions ending in
neutral or park.
(8) Check the transaxle fluid level and add an
appropriate amount to bring the transaxle fluid level
21 - 56 TRANSAXLEPL
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR PINION GEAR
When the sensor is removed for any reason, a
NEW O-ring must be installed on its outside diame-
ter.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove harness connector from sensor. Be sure
weather seal stays on harness connector.
(2) Remove bolt securing the sensor in the exten-
sion housing.
(3) Carefully pull sensor and pinion gear assembly
out of extension housing.
(4) Remove pinion gear from sensor.
INSTALLATION
(1) To install, reverse the above procedure. Be sure
extension housing and sensor flange are clean prior
to installation. Always use a NEW sensor O-ring.
(2) Tighten bolt to 7 N´m (60 in. lbs.). Tighten
speedometer cable to 4 N´m (35 in. lbs.).
PARK/NEUTRAL STARTING AND BACK-UP LAMP
SWITCH
TEST
The park/neutral starting switch is the center ter-
minal of the three terminal switch. It provides
ground for the starter solenoid circuit through the
selector lever in PARK and NEUTRAL positions only.
(1) To test switch, remove wiring connector from
switch and test for continuity between center pin of
switch and transaxle case. Continuity should exist
only when transaxle is in PARK or NEUTRAL.
(2) Check gearshift cable adjustment before replac-
ing a switch that tests bad.
REMOVAL
(1) Unscrew switch from transaxle case allowing
fluid to drain into a container. Move selector lever to
PARK, then to NEUTRAL position, and inspect to see
the switch operating lever fingers are centered in
switch opening.
INSTALLATION
(1) Screw the switch with a new seal into tran-
saxle case and tighten to 33 N´m (24 ft. lbs.). Retest
switch with the test lamp.
(2) Add fluid to transaxle to bring up to proper
level.
(3) The back-up lamp switch circuit is through the
two outside terminals of the three terminal switch.
(4) To test switch, remove wiring connector from
switch and test for continuity between the two out-
side pins.
(5) Continuity should exist only with transaxle in
REVERSE position.(6) No continuity should exist from either pin to
the case.
TRANSAXLE
REMOVAL
NOTE: The transaxle can be removed from the
vehicle without having to remove the engine.
The transaxle and torque converter must be
removed as an assembly; otherwise, the torque con-
verter drive plate, pump bushing, or oil seal may be
damaged. The drive plate will not support a load;
therefore, none of the weight of the transaxle should
be allowed to rest on the plate during removal.
All transaxle components are serviced with the
transaxle out of the vehicle. The components that are
serviceable in the vehicle are:
²Axle shaft seals
²Back±up lamp switch
²End plate
²Extension housing
²Neutral safety switch
²Shift lever
²Transaxle oil pan
²Valve Body
²Vehicle speed sensor
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Pull Power Distribution Center up and out of
its holding bracket. Set Power Distribution Center
aside to gain clearance.
(3) Remove battery heat shield and remove battery
from engine compartment. Remove battery tray from
engine compartment. Disconnect cruise control (if
equipped).
(4) Remove vehicle speed sensor wiring.
(5) Disconnect neutral safety switch and torque
converter control wiring at transaxle.
CAUTION: Pry up with equal force on both sides of
shifter cable isolator bushing to avoid damaging
cable isolator bushing.
(6) Disconnect gear shift cable end from transaxle
shift lever (Fig. 22). Remove bracket bolt at transaxle
(Fig. 23).
(7) Remove throttle pressure control cable from
lever. Then remove bracket bolts at the transaxle
(Fig. 24).
(8) Remove dipstick tube.
(9) Remove transaxle cooler lines and plug lines
(Fig. 25).
(10) Remove throttle pressure control cable sup-
port bracket bolts. Remove upper bellhousing bolts
and upper starter bolt (Fig. 26).
21 - 64 TRANSAXLEPL
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)