warning DODGE NEON 2000 Service Repair Manual

SERVICE PROCEDURES
PRESSURE GAUGES
A quality air pressure gauge is recommended to
check tire pressure. After checking the air pressure,
replace valve cap finger tight.
TIRE INFLATION PRESSURES
Under inflation causes rapid shoulder wear, tire
flexing, and can result in tire failure (Fig. 5).
Over inflation causes rapid center wear and loss of
the tire's ability to cushion shocks (Fig. 6).
Improper inflation can cause:
²Uneven wear patterns
²Reduced tread life
²Reduced fuel economy
²Unsatisfactory ride²The vehicle to drift.
For proper tire pressure specification refer to the
Tire Inflation Pressure Chart Placard provided with
the vehicle.
Tire pressures have been chosen to provide safe
operation, vehicle stability, and a smooth ride. Tire
pressure should be checked cold once per month.
Check tire pressure more frequently when the
weather temperature varies widely. Tire pressure will
decrease when the outdoor temperature drops.
Inflation pressures specified on the placard are
always the cold inflation pressure of the tire. Cold
inflation pressure is obtained after the vehicle has
not been operated for at least 3 hours, or the vehicle
is driven less than one mile after being inoperative
for 3 hours. Tire inflation pressures may increase
from 2 to 6 pounds per square inch (psi) during oper-
ation. Do not reduce this normal pressure build-up.
WARNING: OVER OR UNDER INFLATED TIRES
CAN AFFECT VEHICLE HANDLING. THE TIRE CAN
FAIL SUDDENLY, RESULTING IN LOSS OF VEHICLE
CONTROL.
TIRE PRESSURE FOR HIGH SPEED
OPERATION
DaimlerChrysler Corporation advocates driving at
safe speeds within posted speed limits. Where speed
limits allow the vehicle to be driven at high speeds,
correct tire inflation pressure is very important. For
speeds up to and including 120 km/h (75 mph), tires
must be inflated to the pressures shown on the tire
placard. For continuous speeds in excess of 120 km/h
(75 mph), tires must be inflated to the maximum
pressure specified on the tire sidewall.
Vehicles loaded to the maximum capacity should
not be driven at continuous speeds above 75 mph
(120 km/h).
For emergency vehicles that are driven at speeds
over 90 mph (144 km/h), special high speed tires
must be used. Consult tire manufacturer for correct
inflation pressure recommendations.
TIRE AND WHEEL ROTATION
NON-DIRECTIONAL TREAD PATTERN TIRES
Tires on the front and rear axles operate at differ-
ent loads and perform different functions. For these
reasons, they wear at unequal rates, and tend to
develop irregular wear patterns. These effects can be
reduced by timely rotation of tires. The benefits of
rotation are especially worthwhile. Rotation will
increase tread life, help to maintain mud, snow, and
wet traction levels, and contribute to a smooth, quiet
ride.
Fig. 5 Under Inflation Wear
1 ± THIN TIRE TREAD AREAS
Fig. 6 Over Inflation Wear
1 ± THIN TIRE TREAD AREA
22 - 6 TIRES AND WHEELSPL

pilot hole and bolt circle of the wheel should be the
same as the original wheel.
WARNING: FAILURE TO USE EQUIVALENT
REPLACEMENT WHEELS MAY ADVERSELY AFFECT
THE SAFETY AND HANDLING OF THE VEHICLE.
USED WHEELS ARE NOT RECOMMENDED. THE
SERVICE HISTORY OF THE WHEEL MAY HAVE
INCLUDED SEVERE TREATMENT OR VERY HIGH
MILEAGE. THE RIM COULD FAIL WITHOUT WARN-
ING.
TIRE AND WHEEL RUNOUT
NOTE: Runout should always be measured off the
vehicle and on a suitable balance machine.
Radial run out is the difference between the high
and low points on the outer edge of the tire or wheel.
Lateral run out is the total side±to±side wobble of
the tire or wheel.
Radial run out of more than 1.5 mm (.060 inch)
measured at the center line of the tread may cause
the vehicle to shake.
Lateral run out of more than 2.0 mm (.080 inch)
measured at the side of the tire as close to the tread
as possible may cause the vehicle to shake.
Sometimes radial run out can be reduced by relo-
cating the wheel and tire on the wheel studs (See
Method 1). If this does not reduce run out to an
acceptable level, the tire can be rotated on the wheel.
(See Method 2).
METHOD 1 (RELOCATE WHEEL ON HUB)
Check accuracy of the wheel mounting surface;
adjust wheel bearings.
Drive vehicle a short distance to eliminate tire flat
spotting from a parked position.
Verify all wheel nuts are tightened and properly
torqued in the correct sequence (Fig. 5).
Use run out gauge D-128-TR to determine run out
(Fig. 6).
Relocate the wheel on the mounting studs, two
studs over from the original position.
Retighten wheel nuts until all are properly
torqued. This will prevent brake distortion.
Check radial run out. If still excessive, mark tire
sidewall, wheel, and stud at point of maximum run
out (Fig. 7) and proceed to Method 2.
Fig. 5 Tightening Wheel Nuts
Fig. 6 Run Out Gauge
Fig. 7 Chalk Marking On Wheel, Tire And Stud
1 ± STUD
2 ± TIRE
3 ± CHALK MARK LOCATIONS
22 - 12 TIRES AND WHEELSPL
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

that may induce an erroneous failure. This prevents
illuminating the MIL for the wrong fault and allows
more precis diagnosis.
For example, if the PCM is storing a one trip fault
for the Oxygen Sensor and the EGR monitor, the
Task Manager may still run the EGR Monitor but
will suspend the results until the Oxygen Sensor
Monitor either passes or fails. At that point the Task
Manager can determine if the EGR system is actu-
ally failing or if an Oxygen Sensor is failing.
MIL Illumination
The PCM Task Manager carries out the illumina-
tion of the MIL. The Task Manager triggers MIL illu-
mination upon test failure, depending on monitor
failure criteria.
The Task Manager Screen shows both a Requested
MIL state and an Actual MIL state. When the MIL is
illuminated upon completion of a test for a third trip,
the Requested MIL state changes to OFF. However,
the MIL remains illuminated until the next key
cycle. (On some vehicles, the MIL will actually turn
OFF during the third key cycle) During the key cycle
for the third good trip, the Requested MIL state is
OFF, while the Actual MILL state is ON. After the
next key cycle, the MIL is not illuminated and both
MIL states read OFF.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs)
With OBD II, different DTC faults have different
priorities according to regulations. As a result, the
priorities determine MIL illumination and DTC era-
sure. DTCs are entered according to individual prior-
ity. DTCs with a higher priority overwrite lower
priority DTCs.
Priorities
²Priority 0 ÐNon-emissions related trouble codes
²Priority 1 Ð One trip failure of a two trip fault
for non-fuel system and non-misfire.
²Priority 2 Ð One trip failure of a two trip fault
for fuel system (rich/lean) or misfire.
²Priority3ÐTwotrip failure for a non-fuel sys-
tem and non-misfire or matured one trip comprehen-
sive component fault.
²Priority4ÐTwotrip failure or matured fault
for fuel system (rich/lean) and misfire or one trip cat-
alyst damaging misfire.
Non-emissions related failures have no priority.
One trip failures of two trip faults have low priority.
Two trip failures or matured faults have higher pri-
ority. One and two trip failures of fuel system and
misfire monitor take precedence over non-fuel system
and non-misfire failures.DTC Self Erasure
With one trip components or systems, the MIL is
illuminated upon test failure and DTCs are stored.
Two trip monitors are components requiring failure
in two consecutive trips for MIL illumination. Upon
failure of the first test, the Task Manager enters a
maturing code. If the component fails the test for a
second time the code matures and a DTC is set.
After three good trips the MIL is extinguished and
the Task Manager automatically switches the trip
counter to a warm-up cycle counter. DTCs are auto-
matically erased following 40 warm-up cycles if the
component does not fail again.
For misfire and fuel system monitors, the compo-
nent must pass the test under a Similar Conditions
Window in order to record a good trip. A Similar Con-
ditions Window is when engine RPM is within6375
RPM and load is within610% of when the fault
occurred.
NOTE: It is important to understand that a compo-
nent does not have to fail under a similar window of
operation to mature. It must pass the test under a
Similar Conditions Window when it failed to record
a Good Trip for DTC erasure for misfire and fuel
system monitors.
DTCs can be erased anytime with a DRB III. Eras-
ing the DTC with the DRB III erases all OBD II
information. The DRB III automatically displays a
warning that erasing the DTC will also erase all
OBD II monitor data. This includes all counter infor-
mation for warm-up cycles, trips and Freeze Frame.
Trip Indicator
TheTripis essential for running monitors and
extinguishing the MIL. In OBD II terms, a trip is a
set of vehicle operating conditions that must be met
for a specific monitor to run. All trips begin with a
key cycle.
Good Trip
The Good Trip counters are as follows:
²Global Good Trip
²Fuel System Good Trip
²Misfire Good Trip
²Alternate Good Trip (appears as a Global Good
Trip on DRB III)
²Comprehensive Components
²Major Monitor
²Warm-Up Cycles
Global Good Trip
To increment a Global Good Trip, the Oxygen sen-
sor and Catalyst efficiency monitors must have run
and passed.
Fuel System Good Trip
To count a good trip (three required) and turn off
the MIL, the following conditions must occur:
PLEMISSION CONTROL SYSTEMS 25 - 3
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)

STATIONARY GLASS
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS....................4
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
WINDSHIELD.............................4REAR WINDOW...........................6
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
WARNING: DO NOT OPERATE THE VEHICLE
WITHIN 24 HOURS OF WINDSHIELD INSTALLATION.
IT TAKES AT LEAST 24 HOURS FOR URETHANE
ADHESIVE TO CURE. IF IT IS NOT CURED, THE
WINDSHIELD MAY NOT PERFORM PROPERLY IN
AN ACCIDENT.
URETHANE ADHESIVES ARE APPLIED AS A SYS-
TEM. USE GLASS CLEANER, GLASS PREP SOL-
VENT, GLASS PRIMER, PVC (VINYL) PRIMER AND
PINCH WELD (FENCE) PRIMER PROVIDED BY THE
ADHESIVE MANUFACTURER. IF NOT, STRUCTURAL
INTEGRITY COULD BE COMPROMISED.
CHRYSLER DOES NOT RECOMMEND GLASS
ADHESIVE BY BRAND. TECHNICIANS SHOULD
REVIEW PRODUCT LABELS AND TECHNICAL DATA
SHEETS, AND USE ONLY ADHESIVES THAT THEIR
MANUFACTURES WARRANT WILL RESTORE A
VEHICLE TO THE REQUIREMENTS OF FMVSS 212.
TECHNICIANS SHOULD ALSO INSURE THAT PRIM-
ERS AND CLEANERS ARE COMPATIBLE WITH THE
PARTICULAR ADHESIVE USED.
BE SURE TO REFER TO THE URETHANE MANU-
FACTURER'S DIRECTIONS FOR CURING TIME
SPECIFICATIONS, AND DO NOT USE ADHESIVE
AFTER ITS EXPIRATION DATE.
VAPORS THAT ARE EMITTED FROM THE URE-
THANE ADHESIVE OR PRIMER COULD CAUSE
PERSONAL INJURY. USE THEM IN A WELL-VENTI-
LATED AREA.
SKIN CONTACT WITH URETHANE ADHESIVE
SHOULD BE AVOIDED. PERSONAL INJURY MAY
RESULT.
ALWAYS WEAR EYE AND HAND PROTECTION
WHEN WORKING WITH GLASS.
CAUTION: Protect all painted and trimmed surfaces
from coming in contact with urethane or primers.
Be careful not to damage painted surfaces when
removing moldings or cutting urethane around
windshield.It is difficult to salvage a windshield during the
removal operation. The windshield is part of the
structural support for the roof. The urethane bonding
used to secure the windshield to the fence is difficult
to cut or clean from any surface. If the moldings are
set in urethane, it would also be unlikely they could
be salvaged. Before removing the windshield, check
the availability of the windshield and moldings from
the parts supplier.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
WINDSHIELD
The urethane adhesive holding the windshield to
the opening pinch weld (fence) can be cut using a
sharp cold knife from the exterior of the vehicle.
Using the cold knife method is effective if the wind-
shield is already broken. If the glass must be sal-
vaged, cutting the urethane adhesive from the
interior of the vehicle using a reciprocating or oscil-
lating power knife is recommended.
RECOMMENDED TOOLS AND ADHESIVE
POWER KNIFE
²FeintPower Cutout Knife
²EqualizertMagnum, Interior Auto Glass Cut
Out Knife
ADHESIVE, PRIMER AND CLEANER
The following urethane adhesive systems are OEM
certified and conform to the FMVSS 212 windshield
retention standard and the FMVSS 216 roof crush
standard.
WINDSHIELD REMOVAL ± EXTERIOR METHOD
(1) Remove inside rear view mirror.
(2) Remove windshield wiper arms.
(3) Remove cowl cover.
23 - 4 BODYPL

(4) Place protective covers over instrument panel
and hood.
(5) Remove windshield A-pillar moldings (Fig. 1)
using a suitable hook tool and trim stick.
(6) Using a sharp cold knife, cut urethane adhe-
sive holding the windshield to the A-pillars, roof
header and cowl pinch weld fences (Fig. 2). A power
cutting device can be used if available.
(7) Separate windshield from vehicle.
WINDSHIELD REMOVAL - INTERIOR METHOD
(1) Remove inside rear view mirror.
(2) Remove instrument panel top cover, refer to
Group 8E, Instrument Panel.
(3) Remove A-pillar trim covers.
(4) Place protective covers over instrument panel
and hood.(5) Using a reciprocating or oscillating power
knife, cut urethane adhesive holding the windshield
to the A-pillars, roof header and cowl pinch weld
fences. Refer to instructions provided with the equip-
ment being used.
(6) Remove windshield from vehicle.
WINDSHIELD INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Open the left front door glass before
installing windshield to avoid pressurizing the pas-
senger compartment. If a door is slammed before
urethane bonding is cured, water leaks can result.
Allow the urethane at least 24 hours to cure
before returning the vehicle to use.
To avoid stressing the replacement windshield,
the urethane bonding material on the windshield
fence should be smooth and consistent to the
shape of the replacement windshield. The support
spacers should be cleaned and properly installed
on weld studs or repair screws at bottom of wind-
shield opening.
(1) Place replacement windshield into windshield
opening and position glass in the center of the open-
ing against the support spacers.
(2) Verify the glass lays evenly against the pinch
weld fence at the sides, top and bottom of the
replacement windshield. If not, the pinch weld fence
must be formed to the shape of the new glass.
(3) Remove replacement windshield from wind-
shield opening.
(4) Position the windshield inside up on a suitable
work surface with two padded, wood 10 cm by 10 cm
by 50 cm (4 in. by 4 in. by 20 in.) blocks, placed par-
allel 75 cm (2.5 ft.) apart (Fig. 3).
WARNING: DO NOT USE SOLVENT BASED GLASS
CLEANER TO CLEAN WINDSHIELD BEFORE
APPLYING GLASS PREP AND PRIMER. POOR
ADHESION CAN RESULT.
(5) Clean inside of windshield with ammonia based
glass cleaner and lint-free cloth.
(6) Apply molding to Top of windshield.
(7) Apply Glass Prep adhesion promoter 25 mm (1
in.) wide around perimeter of windshield and wipe
with clean/dry lint-free cloth until no streaks are vis-
ible.
(8) Apply Glass Primer 25 mm (1 in.) wide around
perimeter of windshield. Allow at least three minutes
drying time.
(9) Using a razor knife, remove as much original
urethane as possible. Do not damage paint on wind-
shield fence.
Fig. 1 Windshield Header and Outside Molding
1 ± WINDSHIELD HEADER MOLDING
2 ± A-PILLAR OUTSIDE MOLDING
3 ± A-PILLAR
Fig. 2 Cut Urethane Around Windshield
1 ± COLD KNIFE
2 ± WINDSHIELD
PLBODY 23 - 5
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

(10) Apply pinch weld primer 15 mm (.75 in.) wide
around the windshield fence. Allow at least three
minutes drying time.
(11) Apply a 10 mm (0.4 in.) bead of urethane on
center line of windshield fence.
(12) With the aid of a helper, position the wind-
shield over the windshield opening. Align the refer-
ence marks at the bottom of the windshield to the
support spacers.
(13) Slowly lower windshield glass to windshield
opening fence. Guide the molding into proper position
as necessary. Push windshield inward molding is
flush to roof line and A-pillars (Fig. 4).
(14) Clean access urethane from exterior with
Mopart, Super Clean or equivalent.
(15) Apply 150 mm (6 in.) lengths of 50 mm (2 in.)
masking tape spaced 250 mm (10 in.) apart to hold
molding in place until urethane cures.
(16) Install A-pillar moldings.
(17) Install cowl cover and wipers.
(18) Install inside rear view mirror.
(19) After urethane has cured, remove tape strips
and water test windshield to verify repair.
REAR WINDOW
WARNING: DO NOT OPERATE THE VEHICLE
WITHIN 24 HOURS OF WINDSHIELD INSTALLATION.IT TAKES AT LEAST 24 HOURS FOR URETHANE
ADHESIVE TO CURE. IF IT IS NOT CURED, THE
WINDSHIELD MAY NOT PERFORM PROPERLY IN
AN ACCIDENT. BE SURE TO REFER TO THE URE-
THANE MANUFACTURER'S DIRECTIONS FOR CUR-
ING TIME SPECIFICATIONS, AND DO NOT USE
ADHESIVE AFTER ITS EXPIRATION DATE.
CAUTION: Open the left front door glass before
installing the rear window to avoid pressurizing the
passenger compartment if a door is slammed
before the urethane bonding is fully cured. Water
leaks can result
Refer to the windshield paragraph of this section
for a description of tools and adhesive systems that
are recommended for use in this procedure.
REAR WINDOW REMOVAL
(1) Remove rear window moldings.
(2) Remove upper quarter trim panel.
(3) Disconnect wire connectors from rear window
defogger.
WARNING: WEAR EYE AND HAND PROTECTION
WHEN HANDLING SAFETY GLASS. PERSONAL
INJURY CAN RESULT.
CAUTION: Do not damage body or trim finish when
cutting out glass or applying fence primer.
(4) Cut the urethane around the perimeter of the
rear window glass. Refer to Windshield section of
this group for proper procedures.
(5) Remove the rear window from the vehicle.
REAR WINDOW INSTALLATION
(1) Prepare the work area, window fence, and
glass the same way as described in the Windshield
section of this group.
(2) Place fence spacers at the locations shown (Fig.
5).
(3) Install the rear window molding on glass.
(4) Apply a 10 mm (0.4 in.) bead of urethane
around the perimeter of the glass.
(5) Install the glass in the same manner described
in the Windshield section of this group (Fig. 5).
(6) Connect rear window defogger wiring and inte-
rior trim.
(7) After urethane has cured, water test rear win-
dow to verify repair. Verify rear window defogger
operation.
Fig. 3 Work Surface Set up and Molding Installation
1 ± WINDSHIELD AND MOULDINGS
2 ± URETHANE BEAD AROUND GLASS 7mm (.3 in.) FROM
EDGE
3 ± BLOCKS
23 - 6 BODYPL
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
WATER LEAKS
Water leaks can be caused by poor sealing,
improper body component alignment, body seam
porosity, missing plugs, or blocked drain holes. Cen-
trifugal and gravitational force can cause water to
drip from a location away from the actual leak point,
making leak detection difficult. All body sealing
points should be water tight in normal wet-driving
conditions. Water flowing downward from the front of
the vehicle should not enter the passenger or luggage
compartment. Moving sealing surfaces will not
always seal water tight under all conditions. At
times, side glass or door seals will allow water to
enter the passenger compartment during high pres-
sure washing or hard driving rain (severe) condi-
tions. Overcompensating on door or glass
adjustments to stop a water leak that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After completing
a repair, water-test vehicle to verify leak has stopped
before returning vehicle to use.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE WATER LEAK TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place, body
drains are clear, and body components are properly
aligned and sealed. If component alignment or seal-
ing is necessary, refer to the appropriate section of
this group for proper procedures.
WATER LEAK TESTS
WARNING: DO NOT USE ELECTRIC SHOP LIGHTS
OR TOOLS IN WATER TEST AREA. PERSONAL
INJURY CAN RESULT.
When the conditions causing a water leak have
been determined, simulate the conditions as closely
as possible.
²If a leak occurs with the vehicle parked in a
steady light rain, flood the leak area with an open-
ended garden hose.
²If a leak occurs while driving at highway speeds
in a steady rain, test the leak area with a reasonable
velocity stream or fan spray of water. Direct the
spray in a direction comparable to actual conditions.
²If a leak occurs when the vehicle is parked on an
incline, hoist the end or side of the vehicle to simu-
late this condition. This method can be used when
the leak occurs when the vehicle accelerates, stops or
turns. If the leak occurs on acceleration, hoist the
front of the vehicle. If the leak occurs when braking,
hoist the back of the vehicle. If the leak occurs on left
turns, hoist the left side of the vehicle. If the leak
occurs on right turns, hoist the right side of the vehi-cle. For hoisting recommendations refer to Group 0,
Lubrication and Maintenance, General Information
section.
WATER LEAK DETECTION
To detect a water leak point-of-entry, do a water
test and watch for water tracks or droplets forming
on the inside of the vehicle. If necessary, remove inte-
rior trim covers or panels to gain visual access to the
leak area. If the hose cannot be positioned without
being held, have someone help do the water test.
Some water leaks must be tested for a considerable
length of time to become apparent. When a leak
appears, find the lowest point of the water track or
drop. After leak point has been found, repair the leak
and water test to verify that the leak has stopped.
Locating the entry point of water that is leaking
into a cavity between panels can be difficult. The
trapped water may splash or run from the cavity,
often at a distance from the entry point. Most water
leaks of this type become apparent after accelerating,
stopping, turning, or when on an incline.
MIRROR INSPECTION METHOD
When a leak point area is visually obstructed, use
a suitable mirror to gain visual access. A mirror can
also be used to deflect light to a limited-access area
to assist in locating a leak point.
BRIGHT LIGHT LEAK TEST METHOD
Some water leaks in the luggage compartment can
be detected without water testing. Position the vehi-
cle in a brightly lit area. From inside the darkened
luggage compartment inspect around seals and body
seams. If necessary, have a helper direct a drop light
over the suspected leak areas around the luggage
compartment. If light is visible through a normally
sealed location, water could enter through the open-
ing.
PRESSURIZED LEAK TEST METHOD
When a water leak into the passenger compart-
ment cannot be detected by water testing, pressurize
the passenger compartment and soap test exterior of
the vehicle. To pressurize the passenger compart-
ment, close all doors and windows, start engine, and
set heater control to high blower in HEAT position. If
engine can not be started, connect a charger to the
battery to ensure adequate voltage to the blower.
With interior pressurized, apply dish detergent solu-
tion to suspected leak area on the exterior of the
vehicle. Apply detergent solution with spray device or
soft bristle brush. If soap bubbles occur at a body
seam, joint, seal or gasket, the leak entry point could
be at that location.
23 - 18 BODYPL

SAFETY PRECAUTION AND WARNINGS
WARNING: EYE PROTECTION SHOULD BE USED
WHEN SERVICING RTM AND SMC COMPONENTS.
PERSONAL INJURE CAN RESULT.
USE AN OSHA APPROVED BREATHING DEVICE
WHEN MIXING EPOXY, GRINDING RTM AND SMC,
AND SPRAYING PAINT OR SOLVENTS IN A CON-
FINED AREA. PERSONAL INJURY CAN RESULT.
AVOID PROLONGED SKIN CONTACT WITH
EPOXY RESIN, PETROLEUM, OR ALCOHOL BASED
SOLVENTS. PERSONAL INJURY CAN RESULT.
DO NOT VENTURE UNDER A HOISTED VEHICLE
THAT IS NOT PROPERLY SUPPORTED ON SAFETY
STANDS. PERSONAL INJURY CAN RESULT.
²When holes must be drilled or cut in body pan-
els, verify locations of internal body components and
electrical wiring. Damage to vehicle can result.
²Do not use abrasive chemicals or compounds on
undamaged painted surfaces around repair areas.
Damage to finish can result.
PANEL SECTIONING
If it is required to section a large panel for an SMC
or RTM repair, it will be necessary to reinforce the
panel with epoxy structural adhesive (rigid repair
adhesive) (Fig. 2). To bond two plastic panels
together, a reinforcement must overlap both panels.
The panels must be ªV'dº at a 20 degree angle. The
area to be reinforced should be washed, then sanded.
Be sure to wipe off any excess soap and water when
finished. Lightly sand or abrade the plastic with an
abrasive pad or sandpaper. Blow off any dust with
compressed air or wipe with a clean dry rag.When bonding SMC or RTM panels, use a two-part
epoxy adhesive. Properly mix parts A and B, and
apply it to the panels being repaired. Be sure that
enough adhesive has been applied to allow squeeze
out and to fill the full bond line. Once the pieces
have been brought together, do not move them until
the adhesive is cured. The assembly can be held
together with clamps, rivets, etc. A faster cure can be
obtained by heating with a heat lamp or heat gun.
After the parts have been bonded and have had
time to cure, rough sand the seam and apply the
final adhesive filler to the area being repaired.
Smooth the filler with a spatula, wooden tongue
depressor, or squeegee. For fine texturing, a small
amount of water can be applied to the filler surface
while smoothing. The cured filler can be sanded as
necessary and, as a final step, cleanup can be done
withy soapy water. Wipe the surface clean with a dry
cloth allowing time for the panel to dry before mov-
ing on with the repair.
PANEL REINFORCEMENT
Structural repair procedures for rigid panels such
as Sheet Molded compound (SMC) or Resin Transfer
Molded (RTM) with large cracks and holes will
require a reinforcement backing. Reinforcements can
be made with several applications of glass cloth sat-
urated with epoxy structural adhesive, semirigid or
flexible repair materials should be used for semirigid
or flexible part repairs (Fig. 3) and (Fig. 4). Open
meshed fiberglass dry wall tape can be used to form
a reinforcement. The dry wall tape allows the resin
to penetrate through and make a good bond between
the panel and the epoxy adhesive. Structurally, the
more dry wall tape used, the stronger the repair.
Another kind of repair that can be done to repair
large cracks and holes is to use a scrap piece of sim-
ilar plastic and bond with structural adhesive. The
reinforcement should cover the entire break and
should have a generous amount of overlap on either
side of the cracked or broken area.
When repairing plastic, the damaged area is first
ªV'dº out, or beveled. Large bonding areas are desir-
able when repairing plastic because small repairs are
less likely to hold permanently. Beveling the area
around a crack at a 20 degree angle will increase the
bonding surface for a repair (Fig. 5). It is recom-
mended that sharp edges be avoided because the
joint may show through after the panel is refinished.
²Panel repair for both flexible and rigid panels
are basically the same. The primary difference
between flexible panel repair and rigid panel repair
is in the adhesive materials used (Fig. 6).
²The technician should first decide what needs to
be done when working on any type of body panel.
One should determine if it is possible to return the
Fig. 2 Panel Sectioning
1 ± EXISTING PANEL
2 ± NEW PANEL
3 ± PANEL ADHESIVE
4 ± BONDING STRIP
23 - 20 BODYPL
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)

DECKLID LATCH
REMOVAL
(1) Open decklid.
(2) Remove bolts attaching decklid latch to decklid
(Fig. 52).
(3) Remove attaching latch from decklid.
(4) Disconnect remote decklid latch release cable
form decklid latch.
(5) Disconnect decklid ajar switch connector from
latch.
(6) Remove latch from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position latch in vehicle and engage decklid
ajar switch connector to latch.
(2) Connect remote decklid latch release cable to
decklid latch.
(3) Install bolts attaching decklid latch to decklid
lid.
DECKLID
REMOVAL
(1) Open decklid.
(2) Mark bolt locations on inside of decklid to aid
installation.
(3) Disengage clips attaching wire harness and
decklid release cable to decklid.(4) Disconnect wire connector and release cable
from decklid latch.
(5) Remove bolts attaching top of hinge to decklid
(Fig. 53).
(6) With aid from a helper, remove bolts holding
bottom of hinge to decklid.
(7) Remove decklid from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Place decklid in position on vehicle.
(2) With aid from a helper, install bolts attaching
bottom of hinge to decklid.
(3) Install bolts attaching top of hinge to decklid.
(4) Align decklid to achieve equal spacing on all
sides and flush across gaps.
(5) Verify decklid operation and sealing.
(6) Connect wire connector and release cable on
latch.
(7) Install clips attaching wire harness and cable
to decklid.
DECKLID LIFT SPRINGS
REMOVAL
WARNING: USE EYE AND HAND PROTECTION
WHEN REMOVING SPRINGS, PERSONAL INJURY
CAN RESULT.
Fig. 52 Decklid Latch
1 ± DECKLID
2 ± POWER DECKLID CONNECTOR
3 ± RETAINER CLIP
4 ± DECKLID SECURITY ALARM SWITCH
5 ± VIEW Y6 ± LOCK CYLINDER
7 ± GASKET
8 ± DECKLID LATCH
9 ± POWER DECKLID LATCH
10 ± DECKLID OVERSLAM BUMPER
PLBODY 23 - 47
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

warning label applied to the sun visor, verify label
availability and ensure the label is installed.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove sun visor from center support.
(2) Remove screws attaching sun visor to roof
header.
(3) Remove sun visor from header.
(4) If equipped, disconnect wire connector from
body harness.
(5) Remove sun visor from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Place sun visor in position.
(2) If equipped, connect wire connector from body
harness.
(3) Install screws attaching sun visor to header.
(4) Install sun visor into center support.
HEADLINER
REMOVAL
(1) Remove screws attaching sun visors to roof
header panel.
(2) Disconnect wire connector from lighted vanity
mirror, if so equipped.
(3) Remove sun visors from vehicle.
(4) Remove A-pillar trim covers.
(5) Remove B-pillar trim panels.
(6) Remove (upper) quarter panel trim panels.
(7) Remove assist handle, if so equipped.
(8) Remove sun visor hooks.
(9) Remove coat hooks, if so equipped.
(10) Remove three push in fasteners at rear of
headliner.
(11) Disengage dome lamp wire connector, at rear
of headliner.
(12) Remove push in fastener attaching wiring to
C-pillar.
(13) Remove headliner through door opening (Fig.
73).
INSTALLATION
(1) Position headliner in vehicle.
(2) Install sun visor hooks, if so equipped.
(3) Install coat hooks, if so equipped.
(4) Install three push in fastener at rear of head-
liner.
(5) Install assist handles, if so equipped.
(6) Install push in fastener attaching headliner
wiring to C-pillar.
(7) Connect dome lamp wire connector, at rear of
headliner.
(8) Install (upper) quarter panel trim panel.
(9) Install B-pillar trim panels.
(10) Install A-pillar trim covers.(11) Install sun visors, lighted vanity mirror wire
connector, if so equipped, and screws attaching sun
visors to roof header panel.
INSIDE REAR VIEW MIRROR
REMOVAL
(1) Loosen the mirror base set screw (Fig. 74).
(2) Slide the mirror base upward and off the
bracket.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the mirror base at the bracket and
slide it downward onto the support bracket.
(2) Tighten the setscrew 1 N´m (15 in. lbs.) torque.
REAR SHELF TRIM PANEL
REMOVAL
(1) Remove quarter trim panels as necessary.
(2) Remove rear seat cushion and back.
(3) Disengage seat belt bezels from rear shelf trim
panel.
(4) Remove rear seat shoulder belt from the shelf
by sliding belt through the slot.
(5) Remove rear shelf trim panel from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Place into position rear shelf trim panel.
(2) Slide the rear seat shoulder belt through the
slot in the rear shelf trim panel.
(3) Engage seat belt bezels to rear shelf trim
panel.
Fig. 73 Headliner
1 ± HEADLINER TO REAR HEADER FASTENERS
2 ± HEADLINER
3 ± VISORS
PLBODY 23 - 57
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)