battery DODGE NEON 2000 Service Owner's Manual

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS±CLUTCH INTERLOCK/UPSTOP SWITCH
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
ENGINE STARTER
WON'T CRANK
WHEN CLUTCH
PEDAL IS
PRESSED TO THE
FLOORClutch interlock switch does not have
continuity when plunger is depressed 1.25
mm (1.30 in.)Defective switch or open wiring circuit.
Replace switch if necessary.
Interlock switch plunger is not depressed
when clutch pedal is pushed to the floorFloor mat interferes with clutch pedal
movement or clutch pedal bracket is bent.
Problem is related to other components in
the starting circuit.Check other components in the starting
circuit. Refer to Battery/Starting/Charging
System in Group 8.
SPEED CONTROL
DOES NOT
TERMINATE WHEN
CLUTCH PEDAL IS
DEPRESSED BY AT
LEAST 33 mm (1.30
in.)Upstop switch circuit is closed when clutch
pedal is depressed, or harness is shorted.Refer to Upstop Switch Electrical Test in
this group. Repair wiring or replace switch
assembly as necessary.
Other speed control system failure. Refer to Group 8H, Speed Control for
further diagnosis and testing procedures.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
CLUTCH CABLE
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect both battery cables.
(2) Remove battery clamp and remove battery
from vehicle.
(3) Remove battery tray from mount bracket.
(4) Remove bellhousing cap (Fig. 7).
(5) Disconnect clutch cable from transaxle housing
and clutch release lever as shown in (Fig. 7).
(6) Disconnect the clutch cable from the clutch
pedal spacer (Fig. 8).
NOTE: Use care when handling clutch cable
assembly. Improper handling can cause adjuster
mechanism to come apart, making re-installation
difficult.
(7) Carefully guide cable through pedal assembly
bore and remove from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Insert the clutch pedal end of the cable into
position and connect the cable to the clutch pedal
spacer as shown in (Fig. 8).
(2) Verify adjuster mechanism function as follows:
(a) With slight pressure, pull the clutch release
lever end of the cable to draw the cable taut.(b) Push the clutch cable housing toward the
dash panel (With less than 25 lbs. of effort, the
cable housing should move 30-50mm.). If the cable
Fig. 7 Clutch Cable at Transaxle
1 ± CLUTCH CABLE
2 ± TRANSAXLE
3 ± BELLHOUSING CAP
PLCLUTCH 6 - 7
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

housing does not move, it is improperly installed or
defective.
(3) Route cable to the transaxle and connect cable
end to the clutch release lever and transaxle housing
(Fig. 7).
(4) Install bellhousing cap (Fig. 7).
(5) Install and fasten battery tray.
(6) Install battery and hold-down clamp.
(7) Connect both battery cables.
(8) Verify that the clutch cable is working properly.
CLUTCH INTERLOCK/UPSTOP SWITCH
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate battery negative cable.
(2) Remove instrument panel assembly. Refer to
Group 8E, Instrument Panel and Systems for the
proper procedure.
(3) Disconnect the clutch interlock/upstop switch
connector (Fig. 9).
NOTE: Proper switch harness routing is critical to
switch durability. Note the harness routing and
location of fasteners intended to keep wires from
contacting pedals.
(4) Remove the interlock/upstop switch assembly
from the brake/clutch pedal bracket assembly by
depressing the four plastic wing tabs on each switch.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install switches into the pedal bracket assem-
bly as shown in (Fig. 9). Route harness as was prior
to removal.
(2) Connect interlock/upstop switch connector.
(3) Install instrument panel assembly. Refer to
Group 8E, Instrument Panel and Systems for the
proper procedure.
(4) Connect battery negative cable.
(5) Verify proper switch operation. Refer to
Description and Operation in this Group.
MODULAR CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
REMOVAL
(1) Raise hood.
(2) Disconnect and isolate both battery cables,
remove battery hold down clamp and bolt, and
remove battery.
(3) Remove air cleaner/throttle body assy. (Fig. 10)
as follows:
(a) Disconnect proportional purge solenoid (PPS)
and crankcase vent hose from throttle body.
(b) Disconnect the Throttle Position Sensor
(TPS) and Idle Air Control (IAC) connectors.
(c) Disconnect throttle body air duct at intake
manifold.
Fig. 8 Clutch Cable at Brake/Clutch Pedal Assembly
1 ± SNAP RING
2 ± CLUTCH PEDAL SPACER
3 ± CLUTCH PEDAL
4 ± CLUTCH CABLE
Fig. 9 Interlock and Upstop Switch Mounting
Locations
1 ± UPSTOP SWITCH
2 ± CLUTCH PEDAL
3 ± INTERLOCK SWITCH
4 ± CONNECTOR
6 - 8 CLUTCHPL
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

(d) Remove mounting bolt and nut (Fig. 10) and
partially remove air cleaner assembly.
(e) Disconnect accelerator and speed control (if
equipped) cables after the assy. is removed from
position. Remove air cleaner assembly from vehi-
cle.
(4) Remove battery tray from bracket.
(5) Disconnect ground cable at battery tray
bracket.
(6) Disconnect back-up lamp switch connector.
(7) Remove bellhousing cap (Fig. 11).
(8) Disconnect clutch cable from release lever and
remove from transaxle (Fig. 11).
(9) Remove shift cable-to-bracket clips (Fig. 12).
(10) Disconnect shift selector and crossover cable
from levers (Fig. 12). Remove cables and secure out
of the way.
(11) Disconnect the vehicle speed sensor connector
(Fig. 13).
(12) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(13) Remove transaxle oil drain plug and drain oil
into a suitable container.
(14) Remove both axle shafts. Refer to Group 3,
Differential and Driveline for the correct procedures.
(15) Remove structural collar (Fig. 14).
(16) Remove the left engine-to-transaxle lateral
bending brace (Fig. 14).
(17) Remove bellhousing dust cover (Fig. 14).
(18) Remove the right engine-to-transaxle lateral
bending brace (Fig. 15).(19) Remove starter motor (Fig. 16).
(20) Remove drive plate-to-clutch module bolts.
(21) Support engine at oil pan with screw jack and
wood block.
(22) Remove transaxle upper mount thru-bolt.
Gain access to this bolt through the driver's side
wheel house (Fig. 17).
(23) Carefully lower engine and transaxle on screw
jack until proper removal clearance is obtained.
Fig. 10 Air Cleaner Assembly Removal/Installation
1 ± AIR CLEANER ASSY.
2 ± THROTTLE BODY DUCTFWD
Fig. 11 Clutch Cable at Transaxle
1 ± CLUTCH CABLE
2 ± TRANSAXLE
3 ± BELLHOUSING CAP
Fig. 12 Shift Cables at Transaxle
1 ± SHIFT CABLES
2 ± CLIPS
3 ± BRACKET
PLCLUTCH 6 - 9
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

(8) Connect starter electrical harness and tighten
positive cable nut to 10 N´m (90 in. lbs.) torque.
(9) Install bellhousing dust cover (Fig. 14).
(10) Install left engine-to-transaxle bending brace
(Fig. 14).(11) Install structural collar (Fig. 14) as follows:
(a) Position collar and install all bolts finger
tight.
(b) Tighten the collar-to-oil pan bolts to 3 N´m
(30 in. lbs.) torque.
(c) Tighten the collar-to-transaxle bolts to 108
N´m (80 ft. lbs.) torque.
(d) Final torque the collar-to-oil pan bolts to 54
N´m (40 ft. lbs.) torque.
(12) Install the right lateral bending brace and
tighten bolts to 81 N´m (60 ft. lbs.) torque (Fig. 15).
(13) Install both front axle driveshafts. Refer to
Group 3, Differential and Driveline for the correct
procedures.
(14) Fill transaxle with suitable amount of Mopart
Manual Transaxle Lubricant (PN 04874465).
(15) Lower vehicle.
(16) Connect vehicle speed sensor connector (Fig.
13).
(17) Connect shift crossover and selector cables to
shift lever. Install cables to bracket and install
retaining clips (Fig. 12).
(18) Connect clutch cable to fork and secure to
transaxle (Fig. 11).
(19) Install bellhousing cap (Fig. 11).
(20) Connect back-up lamp switch connector.
(21) Connect ground strap to transaxle upper
mount bracket.
(22) Install battery lower tray and battery, and
tighten battery hold down clamp to secure battery.
(23) Install the air cleaner/throttle body assy. as
follows:
(a) Connect the accelerator and speed control (if
equipped) cables to the air cleaner/throttle body
assy.
(b) Install assy into position, making sure the
air cleaner locating slot is engaged to the battery
bracket tab, and tighten fasteners to 14 N´m (120
in. lbs.) torque.
(c) Verify throttle body duct is fully seated to
intake manifold and tighten clamp to 5 N´m (40 in.
lbs.) torque.
(d) Connect the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
and Idle Air Control (IAC) connectors.
(e) Connect proportional purge solenoid (PPS)
and crankcase vent hose from throttle body.
(24) Connect the battery cables.
(25) Road test vehicle and inspect for leaks.
Fig. 16 Starter Motor Removal/InstallationÐTypical
1 ± BOLT
2 ± GROUND
3±STARTER
4 ± BOLT
Fig. 17 Transaxle Upper Mount Thru-BoltÐTypical
1 ± MOUNT BRACKET
2 ± BOLT
3 ± MOUNT
PLCLUTCH 6 - 11
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

(3) Remove thermostat/engine outlet connector
bolts (Fig. 22).
(4) Remove thermostat and O-ring assembly.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean all sealing surfaces.
(2) Place the new thermostat assembly into the
thermostat housing/outlet connector. Align vent with
notch in cylinder head.
(3) Install thermostat housing/outlet connector
onto cylinder head and tighten bolts to 12.5 N´m (110
in. lbs.).
(4) Install upper radiator hose.
(5) Connect the coolant recovery/reserve system
hose.
(6) Refill cooling system. Refer to procedure in this
section.
RADIATOR
REMOVAL
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK PLUG OR THE RADIATOR DRAINCOCK
WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE
BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN
OCCUR.
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Drain cooling system. Refer to procedure in
this section.
(3) Remove upper radiator hose from the radiator.
(4) Disconnect and cap automatic transmission
hoses, if equipped.(5) Disconnect cooling fan motor electrical connec-
tor.
(6) Remove cooling fan module retaining screws,
located on the top of the shroud (Fig. 23). Lift shroud
up and out of bottom shroud attachment clips sepa-
rating shroud from radiator.
(7) Remove the lower radiator hose.
(8) Remove upper radiator isolator bracket mount-
ing screws (Fig. 24). Disconnect the engine block
heater wire, if equipped.
(9) Remove the air conditioning condenser attach-
ing screws located at the front of the radiator, if
equipped (Fig. 25), then lean condenser forward.
NOTE: It is not necessary to discharge the air con-
ditioning system to remove the radiator.
Fig. 22 Thermostat/Engine Outlet Connector
1 ± PRESSURE CAP
2 ± THERMOSTAT HOUSING/ENGINE OUTLET CONNECTOR
3 ± THERMOSTAT
4 ± O-RING
5 ± VENT FACING UP
Fig. 23 Fan Module Mounting
1 ± SCREWS
2 ± LOWER MOUNTS
3 ± FAN MOTOR ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
Fig. 24 Radiator Mounting
1 ± UPPER RADIATOR HOSE
2 ± UPPER RADIATOR MOUNTS
PLCOOLING SYSTEM 7 - 21
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

(10) Radiator can now be lifted free from engine
compartment.Care should be taken not to dam-
age radiator cooling fins or water tubes during
removal.
INSTALLATION
(1) Slide radiator down into position behind radia-
tor support (yoke).
(2) Attach air conditioning condenser to radiator, if
equipped (Fig. 25), with four mounting screws.
Tighten screws to 5.4 N´m (50 in. lbs.). Then seat the
radiator assembly lower rubber isolators into the
mounting holes provided in the lower crossmember.
(3) Install and tighten radiator isolator mounting
bracket screws to 10 N´m (90 in. lbs.) (Fig. 24). The
radiator should have clearance to move up, approxi-
mately 5±8 mm (0.20±0.31 in.) after assembled.
(4) Install lower radiator hose. Align the hose and
position the clamp so it will not interfere with engine
components.
(5) Connect automatic transmission hoses, if
equipped. Tighten hose clamps to 2 N´m (18 in. lbs.).
(6) Slide fan module down into clip(s) on lower
radiator flange (Fig. 23). Install retaining screws and
tighten to 7.5 N´m (65 in. lbs.).
(7) Connect the cooling fan motor electrical connec-
tor.
(8) Install upper radiator hose. Align the hose and
position the clamp so they will not interfere with the
engine or the hood.
(9) Connect negative cable to battery.
(10) Fill cooling system with coolant. Refer to pro-
cedure in this section.
(11) Operate engine until it reaches normal operat-
ing temperature. Check cooling system and auto-
matic transmission for correct fluid levels.
RADIATOR DRAINCOCK
REMOVAL
(1) Turn the drain cock stem counterclockwise to
unscrew the stem. When the stem is unscrewed to
the end of the threads, pull the stem (Fig. 26) from
the radiator tank.
INSTALLATION
(1) Push the draincock assembly body into the
tank opening.
(2) Tighten the draincock stem by turning clock-
wise to 2.0-2.7 N´m (18-25 in. lbs.).
COOLING FAN MODULE
All models use a single speed electric motor driven
cooling system fan. The fan module includes a motor,
fan blade, and support shroud. The module is fas-
tened to the radiator by screws.
REMOVAL
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK PLUG OR THE RADIATOR DRAINCOCK
WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE
BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN
OCCUR.
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Drain cooling system below upper radiator hose
level. Refer to procedure in this section.
(3) Remove upper radiator hose from radiator (Fig.
27).
(4) Disconnect fan module electrical connector.
(5) Remove fan module screws from radiator (Fig.
28).
(6) Lift fan shroud up and out of lower shroud
attachment clips.
(7) Refer to Disassembly and Assembly in this sec-
tion for fan module sub-component service proce-
dures.
Fig. 25 A/C Condenser to Radiator Mounting Screws
1 ± AIR CONDITIONING CONDENSER TO RADIATOR
MOUNTING SCREWS
2 ± LOWER ISOLATOR MOUNTS
Fig. 26 Draincock
1 ± DRAIN COCK BODY
2 ± DRAIN COCK HOUSING
7 - 22 COOLING SYSTEMPL
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

INSTALLATION
(1) Install the fan module into the clips on the
lower radiator tank.
(2) Install the fan module retaining screws and
tighten to 7.5 N´m (65 in. lbs.).
(3) Connect fan module electrical connector.For
wiring diagrams of fan motor systems, refer to
Group 8W, Wiring Diagrams.
(4) Install the upper radiator hose to radiator (Fig.
27). Align hose and position clamp so it will not
interfere with the engine or the hood.
(5) Connect negative cable to battery.
(6) Fill cooling system. Refer to procedure in this
section.
COOLANT RECOVERY CONTAINER
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect recovery hose from water outlet
connector/thermostat housing (Fig. 29).
(2) Remove container attaching fasteners (Fig. 30).
(3) Remove coolant recovery container.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install coolant recovery container and tighten
fasteners to 4 N´m (35 in. lbs.) (Fig. 30).
Fig. 27 Upper Radiator Hose
1 ± UPPER RADIATOR HOSE
2 ± UPPER RADIATOR MOUNTS
Fig. 28 Fan ModuleÐRemoval/Installation
1 ± SCREWS
2 ± LOWER MOUNTS
3 ± FAN MOTOR ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
Fig. 29 Recovery Container Hose
1 ± RECOVERY HOSE
2 ± ENGINE COOLANT RECOVERY CONTAINER
3 ± PRESSURE CAP
Fig. 30 Coolant Recovery Container
1 ± COOLANT RECOVERY CONTAINER
2 ± SCREW
3 ± NUT
PLCOOLING SYSTEM 7 - 23
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

BATTERY
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
GENERAL INFORMATION
INTRODUCTION..........................1
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
BATTERY IGNITION OFF DRAW (IOD).........2
CHARGING TIME REQUIRED................2
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
BATTERY BUILT-IN TEST INDICATOR.........3
BATTERY IGNITION OFF DRAW (IOD).........4
BATTERY LOAD TEST......................6
BATTERY OPEN CIRCUIT VOLTAGE...........7
SERVICE PROCEDURES
BATTERY CHARGING......................7CHARGING COMPLETELY DISCHARGED
BATTERY..............................8
VISUAL INSPECTION......................9
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
BATTERY...............................10
BATTERY THERMOWRAP..................10
BATTERY TRAY..........................11
SPECIFICATIONS
BATTERY SPECIFICATIONS................11
TORQUE...............................11
GENERAL INFORMATION
INTRODUCTION
The battery (Fig. 1) stores, stabilizes, and delivers
electrical current to operate various electrical sys-
tems in the vehicle. The determination of whether a
battery is good or bad is made by its ability to accept
a charge. It also must supply high-amperage current
for a long enough period to be able to start the vehi-
cle. The capability of the battery to store electrical
current comes from a chemical reaction. This reac-
tion takes place between the sulfuric acid solution
(electrolyte) and the lead +/- plates in each cell of the
battery. As the battery discharges, the plates react
with the acid from the electrolyte. When the charging
system charges the battery, the water is converted to
sulfuric acid in the battery. The concentration of acid
in the electrolyte is measured as specific gravity
using a hydrometer. The original equipment (OE)
battery is equipped with a hydrometer (test indica-
tor) built into the battery cover. The specific gravity
indicates the battery's state-of-charge. The OE bat-
tery is sealed and water cannot be added.
The battery is vented to release gases that are cre-
ated when the battery is being charged and discharged.
The battery top, posts, and terminals should be cleaned
when other under hood maintenance is performed.
When the electrolyte level is below the top of the
plates, Yellow/Clear in the test Indicator, the battery
must be replaced. The battery must be completely
charged, and the battery top, posts, and cable clamps
must be cleaned before diagnostic procedures are per-
formed.
Fig. 1 Battery Location
1 ± BATTERY
2 ± LEFT STRUT TOWER
3 ± PDC
4 ± THROTTLE BODY
5 ± AIR CLEANER HOUSING
PLBATTERY 8A - 1

DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
BATTERY IGNITION OFF DRAW (IOD)
A completely normal vehicle will have a small
amount of current drain on the battery with the key
out of the ignition. It can range from 4 to 10 milli-
amperes after all the modules time out. If a vehicle
will not be operated for approximately a 20 days, the
IOD fuse should be disconnected to minimize the
vehicle electrical drain on the battery. The IOD fuse
is located in the Power Distribution Center (PDC).
Refer to the PDC cover to locate the proper fuse.
CHARGING TIME REQUIRED
WARNING: NEVER EXCEED 20 AMPS WHEN
CHARGING A COLD -1ÉC (30ÉF) BATTERY. PER-
SONAL INJURY MAY RESULT.
The time required to charge a battery will vary
depending upon the following factors.
SIZE OF BATTERY
A completely discharged large heavy-duty battery
may require more recharging time than a completely
discharged small capacity battery, refer to Battery
Charging Timetable for charging times.
TEMPERATURE
A longer time will be needed to charge a battery at
-18ÉC (0ÉF) than at 27ÉC (80ÉF). When a fast charger
is connected to a cold battery, current accepted by
battery will be very low at first. In time, the battery
will accept a higher rate as battery temperature
warms.
CHARGER CAPACITY
A charger which can supply only five amperes will
require a much longer period of charging than a
charger that can supply 20 amperes or more.
STATE OF CHARGE
A completely discharged battery requires more
charging time than a partially charged battery.
NOTE: Do not attempt to recharge a battery with a
yellow/clear test indicator.
Electrolyte is nearly pure water in a completely
discharged battery. At first, the charging current
amperage will be low. As water is converted back to
sulfuric acid inside the battery, the current amp rate
will rise. Also, the specific gravity of the electrolyte
will rise, bringing the green ball (Fig. 2) into view at
approximately 75 percent state-of-charge.
BATTERY CHARGING TIMETABLE
CHARGING
AMPERAGE5
AMPERES10
AMPERES20
AMPERES
OPEN
CIRCUIT
VOLTAGEHOURS CHARGING AT 21É C (70É F)
12.25 TO
12.496 HOURS 3 HOURS 1.5 HOURS
12.00 TO
12.2410 HOURS 5 HOURS 2.5 HOURS
10.00 TO
11.9914 HOURS 7 HOURS 3.5 HOURS
*BELOW
10.0018 HOURS 9 HOURS 4.5 HOURS
*REFER TO CHARGING A COMPLETELY DISCHARGED
BATTERY
Fig. 2 Reading Test Indicator
1 ± TEST INDICATOR/STATE OF CHARGE
2 ± REPLACE BATTERY
3 ± CLEAR
4 ± BLACK
5 ± GREEN
8A - 2 BATTERYPL

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
BATTERY BUILT-IN TEST INDICATOR
USING TEST INDICATOR
The Test Indicator (Fig. 2), (Fig. 3) and (Fig. 4)
measures the specific gravity of the electrolyte. Spe-
cific Gravity (SG) of the electrolyte will show state-
of-charge (voltage). The test indicator WILL NOT
show cranking capacity of the battery. Refer to Bat-
tery Load Test for more information. Look into the
sight glass (Fig. 2), (Fig. 4) and note the color of the
indicator. Refer to the following description of colors:
NOTE: GREEN = 75 to 100% state-of-charge
The battery is adequately charged for further test-
ing and may be returned to use. If the vehicle will
not crank for a maximum 15 seconds, refer to BAT-
TERY LOAD TEST in this Group for more informa-
tion.
NOTE: BLACK OR DARK=0to75%state-of-chargeThe battery is INADEQUATELY charged and must
be charged until green dot is visible, (12.4 open cir-
cuit volts or greater) before the battery is tested or
returned to use. Refer to Causes of Battery Discharg-
ing in this group for more information.
NOTE: CLEAR COLOR = Replace Battery
WARNING: DO NOT CHARGE, ASSIST BOOST,
LOAD TEST, OR ADD WATER TO THE BATTERY
WHEN CLEAR COLOR DOT IS VISIBLE. PERSONAL
INJURY MAY OCCUR.
A clear color dot shows electrolyte level in battery
is below the test indicator (Fig. 2). Water cannot be
added to a maintenance free battery. The battery
must be replaced. A low electrolyte level may be
caused by an over charging condition. Refer to Gen-
erator Test Procedures on Vehicle.
CAUSES OF BATTERY DISCHARGING
It is normal to have a small 5 to 25 milliamperes
continuous electrical draw from the battery. This
draw will take place with the ignition in the OFF
position, and the courtesy, dome, storage compart-
ments, and engine compartment lights OFF. The con-
tinuous draw is due to various electronic features or
accessories that require electrical current with the
ignition OFF to function properly. When a vehicle is
not used over an extended period of approximately 20
days the IOD fuse should be pulled. The fuse is
located in the power distribution center. Disconnec-
tion of this fuse will reduce the level of battery dis-
charge. Refer to the Battery Diagnosis and Testing
table, and to the proper procedures.
Fig. 3 Battery Construction and Test Indicator -
Typical
1 ± POSITIVE POST
2 ± VENT
3 ± TEST INDICATOR
4 ± VENT
5 ± NEGATIVE POST
6 ± PLATE GROUPS
7 ± ELECTROLYTE LEVEL
8 ± GREEN BALL
9 ± MAINTENANCE FREE BATTERY
Fig. 4 Test Indicator - Typical
1 ± SIGHT GLASS
2 ± PLASTIC TUBE
3 ± GREEN BALL
4 ± BATTERY TOP
PLBATTERY 8A - 3