tow DODGE RAM 2001 Service Repair Manual

(5) Inspect oil pump for wear (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PUMP - INSPEC-
TION).
CLEANING
Wash all parts in a suitable solvent and inspect
carefully for damage or wear.
INSPECTION
Mating surface of the oil pump cover should be
smooth. Replace pump cover if scratched or grooved.
Lay a straightedge across the pump cover surface
(Fig. 61). If a 0.076 mm (0.003 inch) feeler gauge can
be inserted between cover and straightedge, cover
should be replaced.
Measure thickness (Fig. 62) (Fig. 63) and diameter
of rotors. If either rotor thickness measures 14.956
mm (0.5876 inch) or less, or if the diameter is 82.45
mm (3.246 inches) or less, replace rotor set.
Slide outer rotor into timing chain cover pump
body. Press rotor to the side with your fingers and
measure clearance between rotor and pump body
(Fig. 64). If clearance is 0.19 mm (0.007 inch) or
more, and outer rotor is within specifications, replace
timing chain cover.
Install inner rotor into timing chain cover pump
body (Fig. 65). Inner rotor should be positioned with
chamfer up or toward engine when cover is installed.
This allows easy installation over crankshaft. If
Fig. 60 Oil Pump
1 - OUTER ROTOR
2 - INNER ROTOR
3 - OIL PUMP COVER
4 - TIMING CHAIN COVER
Fig. 61 Checking Oil Pump Cover Flatness
1 - FEELER GAUGE
2 - STRAIGHT EDGE
3 - OIL PUMP COVER
Fig. 62 Measuring Outer Rotor Thickness
Fig. 63 Measuring Inner Rotor Thickness
9 - 220 ENGINE 8.0LBR/BE
OIL PUMP (Continued)

vent corrosion. MopartGasket Sealant is available in
a 13 oz. aerosol can or 4oz./16 oz. can w/applicator.
FORM-IN-PLACE GASKET AND SEALER
APPLICATION
Assembling parts using a form-in-place gasket
requires care but it's easier then using precut gas-
kets.
MopartGasket Maker material should be applied
sparingly 1 mm (0.040 in.) diameter or less of sealant
to one gasket surface. Be certain the material sur-
rounds each mounting hole. Excess material can eas-
ily be wiped off. Components should be torqued in
place within 15 minutes. The use of a locating dowel
is recommended during assembly to prevent smear-
ing material off the location.
MopartEngine RTV GEN II or ATF RTV gasket
material should be applied in a continuous bead
approximately 3 mm (0.120 in.) in diameter. All
mounting holes must be circled. For corner sealing, a
3.17 or 6.35 mm (1/8 or 1/4 in.) drop is placed in the
center of the gasket contact area. Uncured sealant
may be removed with a shop towel. Components
should be torqued in place while the sealant is still
wet to the touch (within 10 minutes). The usage of a
locating dowel is recommended during assembly to
prevent smearing material off the location.
MopartGasket Sealant in an aerosol can should be
applied using a thin, even coat sprayed completely
over both surfaces to be joined, and both sides of a
gasket. Then proceed with assembly. Material in a
can w/applicator can be brushed on evenly over the
sealing surfaces. Material in an aerosol can should be
used on engines with multi-layer steel gaskets.
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐREPAIR DAMAGED
OR WORN THREADS
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain
the original center line.
Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essen-
tially, this repair consists of:
²Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
²Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or
equivalent.
²Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring
the hole back to its original thread size.
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐHYDROSTATIC
LOCK
CAUTION: DO NOT use the starter motor to rotate
the crankshaft. Severe damage could occur.When an engine is suspected of hydrostatic lock
(regardless of what caused the problem), follow the
steps below.
(1) Disconnect the negative cable(s) from the bat-
tery.
(2) Inspect air cleaner, induction system, and
intake manifold to ensure system is dry and clear of
foreign material.
(3) Place a shop towel around the fuel injectors to
catch any fluid that may possibly be under pressure
in the cylinder head. Remove the fuel injectors (Refer
to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL INJECTION/FUEL
INJECTOR - REMOVAL).
(4) With all injectors removed, rotate the crank-
shaft using a breaker bar and socket.
(5) Identify the fluid in the cylinders (coolant, fuel,
oil, etc.).
(6) Be sure all fluid has been removed from the
cylinders.
(7) Repair engine or components as necessary to
prevent this problem from occurring again.
(8) Squirt a small amount of engine oil into the
cylinders to lubricate the walls. This will prevent
damage on restart.
(9) Install new fuel injectors (Refer to 14 - FUEL
SYSTEM/FUEL INJECTION/FUEL INJECTOR -
INSTALLATION).
(10) Drain engine oil. Remove and discard the oil
filter (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL FIL-
TER - REMOVAL).
(11) Install the drain plug. Tighten the plug to 34
N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(12) Install a new oil filter (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
LUBRICATION/OIL FILTER - INSTALLATION).
(13) Fill engine crankcase with the specified
amount and grade of oil (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES - SPECIFICA-
TIONS).
(14) Connect the negative cable(s) to the battery.
(15) Start the engine and check for any leaks.
REMOVALÐENGINE
(1) Disconnect both battery negative cables.
(2) Recover A/C refrigerant (if A/C equipped) (Refer
to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMB-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(3) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(4) Drain engine coolant (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(5) Remove engine oil drain plug and drain engine
oil.
(6) Lower vehicle.
(7) Remove radiator upper hose.
(8) Remove the cooling fan shroud-to-radiator
mounting bolts.
9 - 238 ENGINE 5.9L DIESELBR/BE
ENGINE 5.9L DIESEL (Continued)

CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S)
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect both battery negative cables.
(2) Loosen the five (5) cylinder head cover bolts
(Fig. 34). Remove the front three bolts and leave the
rear two bolts in the cover.
(3) Lift cover off of cylinder head.
CLEANING
Using a suitable solvent, Clean and dry gasket
mating surfaces on cylinder head and cover. Wipe
gasket dry and inspect for re-use.
INSPECTION
The cylinder head cover gasket and isolators
are reusable.However, should cracks be present in
the rubber/silicone construction, the defective compo-
nents should be replaced.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the gasket as shown in (Fig. 34). Make
sure the gasket is properly located around the cylin-
der head bolts, with the words ªtop frontº facing up
and towards front of engine.(2) Place two bolts and isolators into the rear two
mounting holes and install the cover.
(3) Install the remaining bolts and isolators. Start-
ing with the center bolt, torque in a circular pattern
to 24 N´m (18 ft. lbs.).
(4) Connect both battery negative cables.
INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES &
SEATS
DESCRIPTION
The valves are made of heat resistant steel, and
have chrome plated stems to prevent scuffing. The
intake and exhaust valves are both similar in head
diameter and overall length, but they have unique
face angles which makes them non-interchangeable.
The valves are distinguished by unique dimples on
the exhaust valve head (Fig. 35).
The exhaust valve springs are made from high
strength, chrome silicon steel. The exhaust valve
springs are also exhaust brake compatible.
STANDARD PROCEDURE-VALVES,GUIDES AND
SPRINGS
REMOVAL
(1) Remove cylinder head (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
CYLINDER HEAD - REMOVAL).
(2) Support cylinder head on stands, or install
head bolts upside down (through combustion surface
side) to protect injector tips from damage from work
bench.
(3) Remove the injector clamp (Fig. 36) from the
cylinder(s) to be serviced.Do not remove the bolt
shown in (Fig. 36).
Fig. 34 Cylinder Head Cover and Gasket
1 - BOLT (5)
2 - GASKET
3 - ªTOP FRONTº
4 - ISOLATOR (5)
Fig. 35 Valve Identification
1 - INTAKE VALVES
2 - EXHAUST VALVES
BR/BEENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 253

CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL -
REAR
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Remove the transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(3) Remove the clutch cover and disc (if manual
transmission equipped) (Refer to 6 - CLUTCH/
CLUTCH DISC - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the flywheel or converter drive plate.
(5) Drill holes 180É apart into the seal. Be careful
not to contact the drill against the crankshaft.
(6) Install #10 sheet metal screws in the drilled
holes and remove the rear seal with a slide hammer
(Fig. 108).
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The seal lip and the sealing surface on
the crankshaft must be free from all oil residue to
prevent seal leaks. The crankshaft and seal sur-
faces must be completely dry when the seal is
installed. Use a soap and water solution on outside
diameter of seal to ease assembly.
(1) Clean the crankshaft journal with a suitable
solvent and dry with a clean shop towel or com-
pressed air. Wipe the inside bore of the crankshaft
seal retainer with a clean shop towel.
(2) Inspect the crankshaft journal for gouges,
nicks, or other imperfections. If the seal groove in the
crankshaft is excessively deep, install the new seal
1/8º deeper into the retainer bore, or obtain a crank-shaft wear sleeve that is available in the aftermar-
ket.
(3) Install the seal pilot, provided in the replace-
ment kit, onto the crankshaft.
(4) Using the provided alignment/installation tool,
start the seal over the pilot and into the retainer by
hand.
(5) Using a ball peen hammer, strike the tool at
the 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions until the align-
ment tool bottoms out on the retainer (Fig. 109).
(6) Remove the seal pilot.
(7) Install the flywheel or converter drive plate.
Tighten the bolts to 137 N´m (101 ft. lbs.) torque.
(8) Install the clutch cover and disc (if equipped)
(Refer to 6 - CLUTCH/CLUTCH DISC - INSTALLA-
TION).
(9) Install the transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(10) Lower vehicle.
(11) Connect battery negative cables.
(12) Check engine oil level and adjust, if necessary.
(13) Start engine and check for oil leaks.
CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL
RETAINER
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Raise vehicle on hoist.
Fig. 108 Crankshaft Rear Seal Removal
1 - NO. 10 SCREW
2 - REAR SEAL
3 - CRANKSHAFT
4 - SLIDE HAMMER
Fig. 109 Seal Installation Using Alignment Tool and
Hammer
1 - SEAL PILOT TOOL
2 - INSTALLATION TOOL
3 - SEAL
4 - RETAINER
9 - 278 ENGINE 5.9L DIESELBR/BE

CAUTION: The seal lip and the sealing surface on
the crankshaft must be free from all oil residue to
prevent seal leaks. The crankshaft and seal sur-
faces must be completely dry when the seal is
installed. Use a soap and water solution on outside
diameter of seal to ease assembly.
(4) Make sure the provided seal pilot is installed
into the new crankshaft seal. Use the alignment/in-
stallation tool and press the seal onto the crankshaft
(Fig. 113). Alternately drive the seal at the 12, 3, 6
and 9 o'clock positions.
(5) Remove the alignment tool and trim the
retainer gasket even with the oil pan mounting sur-
face (Fig. 114).
(6) Remove the seal pilot.
(7) Apply a small amount of MopartSilicone Rub-
ber Adhesive Sealant to the oil pan rail T-joints.
(8) Install the oil pan, suction tube and gaskets
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN -
INSTALLATION).
(9) Install the flywheel housing and bolts. Tighten
the bolts to 60 N´m (44 ft. lbs.) torque.
(10)
Install the starter motor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - INSTALLATION).
(11) Install the flywheel or converter drive plate.
Tighten bolts to 137 N´m (101 ft. lbs.)
(12) Install the transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(13) Lower vehicle.
(14) Fill the crankcase with new engine oil.
(15) Connect the battery negative cables.
(16) Start engine and check for oil leaks.
SOLID LIFTERS/TAPPETS
REMOVAL
NOTE: This procedure requires use of Miller Tool
8502 Tappet Replacement Kit, or Cummins Tool Kit
#3822513.
(1) Remove camshaft (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/EN-
GINE BLOCK/CAMSHAFT & BEARINGS (IN
BLOCK) - REMOVAL).
(2) Insert the trough (provided with tool kit) the
full length of the camshaft bore (Fig. 115). Make sure
the cap end goes in first and the open side faces up
(towards tappets).
Fig. 115 Inserting the Trough
1 - TROUGH
Fig. 113 Installing Seal Using Alignment Tool and
Hammer
1 - SEAL PILOT TOOL
2 - INSTALLATION TOOL
3 - SEAL
4 - RETAINER
Fig. 114 Trimming Excess Gasket Material
1 - GASKET
9 - 280 ENGINE 5.9L DIESELBR/BE
CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL RETAINER (Continued)

(3)Remove only one tappet at a time.Remove
rubber band from one cylinder pair and attach tappet
dowel not being removed to the next cylinder pair
(Fig. 116).
(4) Raise dowel rod (disengage from tappet) and
allow tappet to fall into trough (Fig. 117).
(5) Carefully remove trough(do not rotate)and
tappet. If the tappet is not being replaced, mark it so
it can be installed in its original location.
(6) Re-install trough and repeat procedure on
remaining tappets.
CLEANING
Clean tappet with a suitable solvent. Rinse in hot
water and blow dry with a clean shop rag or com-
pressed air.
INSPECTION
(1) Visually inspect the tappet the tappet socket,
stem, and face for excessive wear, cracks, or obvious
damage (Fig. 118).
(2) Measure the tappet stem diameter. Replace the
tappet if it falls below the minimum size (Fig. 118).
INSTALLATION
(1) Insert the trough the full length of the cam-
shaft bore (Fig. 115). Again, make sure the cap end
goes in first and the open side faces up (towards tap-
pets).
(2) Lower the tappet installation tool through the
push rod hole (Fig. 119) and into the trough.
(3) Retrieve the tappet installation tool using the
hooked rod provided with the tool kit (Fig. 120).
(4) Lubricate the tappet with clean engine oil or
suitable equivalent and install the tappet to the
installation tool (Fig. 121).
(5) Pull the tappet up and into position (Fig. 121).
If difficulty is experienced getting the tappet to make
the turn into the tappet bore, wiggle the trough
whilegentlypulling up on the tappet.
(6) With the tappet in place, rotate the trough one
half turn so the open side is down (toward crank-
shaft) (Fig. 122).
Fig. 116 Secure Dowel/Tappet to Adjacent Cylinder
Fig. 117 Lift Dowel Rod to Disengage from Tappet
Fig. 118 Tappet Inspection
TAPPET STEM DIAMETER
15.925 mm (0.627 in.) MIN.
15.977 mm (0.629 in.) MAX.
Fig. 119 Insert Installation Tool through Push Rod
Hole
BR/BEENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 281
SOLID LIFTERS/TAPPETS (Continued)

REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery cables.
(2) Remove the cylinder head (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the oil pan and suction tube (Refer to 9
- ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(4) Using Miller Tool 7471-B crankshaft barring
tool, rotate the crankshaft so all of the pistons are
below TDC.
(5) Before removing the piston(s) from the bore(s):
(a) Remove any carbon ridge formations or
deposits at the top of the bore with a dull scraper
or soft wire brush.
(b) If cylinder bore wear ridges are found, use a
ridge reamer to cut the ridge from the bore. DO
NOT remove more metal than necessary to remove
the ridge.
NOTE: If cylinders have ridges, the cylinders are
oversize and will more than likely need boring.
(6) Using a hammer and steel stamp, identify the
front of the piston by stamping the cylinder number
in each piston to be removed at the top of the piston
toward the front of the engine. DO NOT stamp in the
outside 5 mm (.197 in.) of the piston diameter.(7) Mark the connecting rod and cap with the cor-
responding cylinder numbers.
(8) Remove the connecting rod bolts and rod caps.
Use care so the cylinder bores and connecting rods
are not damaged.
(9) Use a hammer handle or similar object to push
the piston and connecting rod through the cylinder
bore.
(10) Store the piston/rod assemblies in a rack.
(11) If a piston must be replaced, replace with the
same part number (grading) that was removed.
CLEANING
CAUTION: DO NOT use bead blast to clean the pis-
tons. DO NOT clean the pistons and rods in an acid
tank.
Clean the pistons and pins in a suitable solvent,
rinse in hot water and blow dry with compressed air.
Soaking the pistons over night will loosen most of the
carbon build up. De-carbon the ring grooves with a
broken piston ring and again clean the pistons in sol-
vent. Rinse in hot water and blow dry with com-
pressed air.
INSPECTION
Inspect the pistons for damage and excessive wear.
Check top of the piston, ring grooves, skirt and pin
bore. Measure the piston skirt diameter (Fig. 128). If
the piston is out of limits, replace the piston.
The upper groove only needs to be inspected for
damage. Use a new piston ring to measure the clear-
ance in the intermediate ring groove (Fig. 129). If the
clearance of the intermediate ring exceeds 0.095 mm
(0.0038 inch), replace the piston.
Use a new oil ring to measure the clearance in the
oil groove (Fig. 129). If the clearance exceeds 0.085
mm (0.0034 inch), replace the piston.
Measure the pin bore (Fig. 130). The maximum
diameter is 40.012 mm (1.5753 inch). If the bore is
over limits, replace the piston.
Inspect the piston pin for nicks, gouges and exces-
sive wear. Measure the pin diameter (Fig. 131). The
minimum diameter is 39.990 mm (1.5744 inch). If the
diameter is out of limits, replace the pin.
Fig. 127 Piston Grading Measurement
BR/BEENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 285
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD (Continued)

INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate the cylinder bores with clean engine
oil.
(2) Generously lubricate the rings and piston
skirts with clean engine oil.
(3) Compress the rings using a piston ring com-
pressor tool (Fig. 133). If using a strap-type ring com-
pressor, make sure the inside end of the strap does
not hook on a ring gap and break the ring.
(4) Bar the crankshaft so the rod journal for the
piston to be installed is at BDC (Bottom Dead Cen-
ter) - (Fig. 134).
(5) Be sure the mark you made on the piston and
the numbers on the rod and cap are oriented as illus-
trated.
(6) Position the piston and rod assembly into the
cylinder bore with the mark you made on the piston
towards the front of the cylinder block. In this posi-
tion the numbers on the connecting rod should be
facing the oil cooler side of the engine, and the rod
bolt holes toward the camshaft. Use care when you
install the piston and connecting rod so the cylinder
bore is not damaged.
(7) Push the piston into the bore until the top of
the piston is approximately 50 mm (2 inch) below thetop of the block. Carefully pull the connecting rod
onto the crankshaft journal.
(8) Use clean engine oil to lubricate the threads
and under the heads of the connecting rod bolts.
(9) The number stamped on the rod cap at the
parting line must match and be installed towards the
oil cooler side of the engine (Fig. 135).
(10) Install the rod cap and bolts to the connecting
rod. Tighten the connecting rod and bolt evenly in 3
steps.
²Tighten the bolts to 35 N´m (26 ft. lbs.) torque.
²Tighten the bolts to 70 N´m (51 ft. lbs.) torque.
²Tighten the bolts to 100 N´m (73 ft. lbs.) torque.
(11) The crankshaft must rotate freely. Check for
freedom of rotation as the caps are installed. If the
crankshaft does not rotate freely, check the installa-
tion of the rod bearing and the bearing size.
(12) Measure the side clearance between the con-
necting rod and the crankshaft (Fig. 136). DO NOT
measure the clearance between the cap and crank-
shaft.
Fig. 133 Piston Ring Compressor Tool
1 - PISTON RING COMPRESSOR TOOL
Fig. 134 Piston/Rod Assembly at BDC
Fig. 135 Correct Rod Cap Installation
Fig. 136 Side Clearance between Connecting
Rod/Crankshaft
1 - FEELER GAUGE
CONNECTING ROD SIDE CLEARANCE 0.1 - 0.33 mm ( .004 -
.013 inch)
BR/BEENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 287
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD (Continued)

CAUTION: The turbocharger is only serviced as an
assembly. Do not attempt to repair the turbocharger
as turbocharger and/or engine damage can result.
CLEANING
Clean the turbocharger and exhaust manifold
mounting surfaces with a suitable scraper.
INSPECTION
Visually inspect the turbocharger and exhaust
manifold gasket surfaces. Replace stripped or eroded
mounting studs.
(1) Visually inspect the turbocharger for cracks.
The following cracks are NOT acceptable:
²Cracks in the turbine and compressor housing
that go completely through.
²Cracks in the mounting flange that are longer
than 15 mm (0.6 in.).
²Cracks in the mounting flange that intersect
bolt through-holes.
²Two (2) Cracks in the mounting flange that are
closer than 6.4 mm (0.25 in.) together.
(2) Visually inspect the impeller and compressor
wheel fins for nicks, cracks, or chips. Note: Some
impellers may have a factory placed paint mark
which, after normal operation, appears to be a crack.Remove this mark with a suitable solvent to verify
that it is not a crack.
(3) Visually inspect the turbocharger compressor
housing for an impeller rubbing condition (Fig. 25).
Replace the turbocharger if the condition exists.
(4) Measure the turbocharger axial end play:
(a) Install a dial indicator as shown in (Fig. 26).
Zero the indicator at one end of travel.
(b) Move the impeller shaft fore and aft and
record the measurement. Allowable end play is
0.038 mm (0.0015 in.) MIN. and 0.089 mm (0.0035
in.) MAX. If the recorded measurement falls out-
side these parameters, replace the turbocharger
assembly.
(5) Measure the turbocharger bearing radial clear-
ance:
(a) Insert a narrow blade or wire style feeler
gauge between the compressor wheel and the hous-
ing (Fig. 27).
(b) Gently push the compresser wheel toward
the housing and record the clearance.
(c) With the feeler gauge in the same location,
gently push the compressor wheel away from the
housing and again record the clearance.
(d) Subtract the smaller clearance from the
larger clearance. This is the radial bearing clear-
ance.
(e) Allowable radial bearing clearance is 0.326
mm (0.0128 in.) MIN. and 0.496 mm (0.0195 in.)
MAX. If the recorded measurement falls outside
these specifications, replace the turbocharger assy.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the turbocharger. Apply anti-seize to the
studs and then tighten the turbocharger mounting
nuts to 32 N´m (24 ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) Install the oil drain tube and oil supply line to
the turbocharger (Fig. 24). Tighten the drain tube
bolts to 24 N´m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
Fig. 24 Oil Supply Line and Charge Air Cooler Inlet
Duct
1 - EXHAUST PIPE
2 - TURBOCHARGER
3 - AIR INLET TUBE
4 - COOLER INLET DUCT
Fig. 25 Inspect Compressor Housing for Impeller
Rubbing Condition
11 - 16 EXHAUST SYSTEMBR/BE
TURBOCHARGER (Continued)

FRAME & BUMPERS
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
BUMPERS
DESCRIPTION............................1
FRONT AIR DAM
REMOVAL...............................1
INSTALLATION............................2
FRONT FASCIA
REMOVAL...............................2
INSTALLATION............................2
ADJUSTMENT............................2
FRONT LOWER FASCIA
REMOVAL...............................3
INSTALLATION............................3
FRONT FASCIAÐSPORT
REMOVAL...............................3
INSTALLATION............................3
FRONT BUMPER
REMOVAL...............................3
INSTALLATION............................4
FRONT BUMPERÐSPORT
REMOVAL...............................4
INSTALLATION............................4REAR BUMPER
REMOVAL...............................5
INSTALLATION............................5
FRAME
DESCRIPTION............................6
SPECIFICATIONS.........................7
CAB CHASSIS ADAPTER BRACKET
REMOVAL...............................9
INSTALLATION............................9
FRONT TOW HOOK
REMOVAL...............................9
INSTALLATION...........................10
SPARE TIRE WINCH
REMOVAL..............................10
INSTALLATION...........................10
TRAILER HITCH
REMOVAL..............................10
INSTALLATION...........................10
TRANSFER CASE SKID PLATE
REMOVAL..............................11
INSTALLATION...........................11
BUMPERS
DESCRIPTION
Bumpers are used at the front and rear of the
vehicle. Bumpers may be chrome or painted.
Bumpers are designed to protect the exterior sheet-
metal in low impact situations. The bumpers are
attached to the frame and provide mounting points
for some optional accessories such as fog lights and
tow hooks.
FRONT AIR DAM
REMOVAL
(1) Remove Pin-type fasteners attaching air dam
to bottom of front bumper (Fig. 1).
(2) Remove screws attaching air dam to bottom of
front bumper.
(3) Separate air dam from bumper.
BR/BEFRAME & BUMPERS 13 - 1