ECU DODGE RAM 2002 Service Manual PDF

Excessive IOD can be caused by:
²Electrical items left on.
²Faulty or improperly adjusted switches.
²Faulty or shorted electronic modules and compo-
nents.
²An internally shorted generator.
²Intermittent shorts in the wiring.
If the IOD is over thirty-five milliamperes, the
problem must be found and corrected before replac-
ing a battery. In most cases, the battery can becharged and returned to service after the excessive
IOD condition has been corrected.
(1) Verify that all electrical accessories are off.
Turn off all lamps, remove the ignition key, and close
all doors. If the vehicle is equipped with an illumi-
nated entry system or an electronically tuned radio,
allow the electronic timer function of these systems
to automatically shut off (time out). This may take
up to three minutes. See the Electronic Module Igni-
tion-Off Draw Table for more information.
ELECTRONIC MODULE IGNITION-OFF DRAW (IOD) TABLE
ModuleTime Out?
(If Yes, Interval And Wake-Up Input)IOD IOD After Time Out
Radio No 1 to 3 milliamperes N/A
Audio Power
AmplifierNo up to 1 milliampere N/A
Central Timer
Module (CTM)No4.75 milliamperes
(max.)N/A
Powertrain Control
Module (PCM)No 0.95 milliampere N/A
ElectroMechanical
Instrument Cluster
(EMIC)No 0.44 milliampere N/A
Combination Flasher No 0.08 milliampere N/A
(2) Determine that the underhood lamp is operat-
ing properly, then disconnect the lamp wire harness
connector or remove the lamp bulb.
(3) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(4) Set an electronic digital multi-meter to its
highest amperage scale. Connect the multi-meter
between the disconnected battery negative cable ter-
minal clamp and the battery negative terminal post.
Make sure that the doors remain closed so that the
illuminated entry system is not activated. The multi-
meter amperage reading may remain high for up to
three minutes, or may not give any reading at all
while set in the highest amperage scale, depending
upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. The
multi-meter leads must be securely clamped to the
battery negative cable terminal clamp and the bat-
tery negative terminal post. If continuity between the
battery negative terminal post and the negative cable
terminal clamp is lost during any part of the IOD
test, the electronic timer function will be activated
and all of the tests will have to be repeated.
(5) After about three minutes, the high-amperage
IOD reading on the multi-meter should become very
low or nonexistent, depending upon the electrical
equipment in the vehicle. If the amperage reading
remains high, remove and replace each fuse or circuit
breaker in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) andthen in the Junction Block (JB), one at a time until
the amperage reading becomes very low, or nonexist-
ent. Refer to the appropriate wiring information in
this service manual for complete PDC and JB fuse,
circuit breaker, and circuit identification. This will
isolate each circuit and identify the circuit that is the
source of the high-amperage IOD. If the amperage
reading remains high after removing and replacing
each fuse and circuit breaker, disconnect the wire
harness from the generator. If the amperage reading
now becomes very low or nonexistent, refer to Charg-
ing System for the proper charging system diagnosis
and testing procedures. After the high-amperage IOD
has been corrected, switch the multi-meter to pro-
gressively lower amperage scales and, if necessary,
repeat the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-re-
place process to identify and correct all sources of
excessive IOD. It is now safe to select the lowest mil-
liampere scale of the multi-meter to check the low-
amperage IOD.
CAUTION: Do not open any doors, or turn on any
electrical accessories with the lowest milliampere
scale selected, or the multi-meter may be damaged.
(6) Observe the multi-meter reading. The low-am-
perage IOD should not exceed thirty-five milliam-
peres (0.035 ampere). If the current draw exceeds
8F - 14 BATTERY SYSTEMBR/BE
BATTERY (Continued)

BATTERY HOLDDOWN
DESCRIPTION
The battery hold down hardware (Fig. 17) includes
two bolts, two U-nuts and a hold down strap. The
battery hold down bracket consists of a formed steel
rod with a stamped steel angle bracket welded to
each end. The hold down bracket assembly is then
plastic-coated for corrosion protection. Models
equipped with the optional diesel engine have a sec-
ond battery installed in a second battery tray on the
right side of the engine compartment. The hold down
hardware for the right side battery is mirror image of
the hold down hardware used for the left side bat-
tery.
When installing a battery into the battery tray, be
certain that the hold down hardware is properly
installed and that the fasteners are tightened to the
proper specifications. Improper hold down fastener
tightness, whether too loose or too tight, can result in
damage to the battery, the vehicle or both.
OPERATION
The battery holddown secures the battery in the
battery tray. This holddown is designed to prevent
battery movement during the most extreme vehicle
operation conditions. Periodic removal and lubrica-tion of the battery holddown hardware is recom-
mended to prevent hardware seizure at a later date.
CAUTION: Never operate a vehicle without a battery
holddown device properly installed. Damage to the
vehicle, components and battery could result.
REMOVAL
All of the battery hold down hardware except for
the outboard U-nut can be serviced without removal
of the battery or the battery tray. The battery tray
must be removed from the vehicle to service the out-
board U-nut. If the outboard U-nut requires service
replacement, refer toBattery Trayin the index of
this service manual for the location of the proper bat-
tery tray removal and installation procedures.
(1) Turn the ignition switch to the Off position. Be
certain that all electrical accessories are turned off.
(2) Loosen the battery negative cable terminal
clamp pinch-bolt hex nut.
(3) Disconnect the battery negative cable terminal
clamp from the battery negative terminal post. If
necessary, use a battery terminal puller to remove
the terminal clamp from the battery post.
(4) Remove the two battery hold down bolts from
the battery hold down strap (Fig. 18).
Fig. 17 Battery Hold Downs - Typical
1 - BATTERY TRAY
2 - U-NUT (2)
3 - BATTERY
4 - BOLT (2)
5 - HOLD DOWN STRAP
Fig. 18 Left Battery Hold Downs Remove/Install -
Typical for Right Battery
1 - BATTERY TRAY
2 - U-NUT (2)
3 - BATTERY
4 - BOLT (2)
5 - HOLD DOWN STRAP
BR/BEBATTERY SYSTEM 8F - 17

the top of the battery. The eyelet terminals secured
to the ends of the battery cable wires opposite the
female battery terminal clamps provide secure and
reliable connection of the battery to the vehicle elec-
trical system.
GASOLINE ENGINE
The battery positive cable terminal clamp is
crimped onto the ends of two wires. One wire has an
eyelet terminal that connects the battery positive
cable to the B(+) terminal stud of the Power Distri-
bution Center (PDC), and the other wire has an eye-
let terminal that connects the battery positive cable
to the B(+) terminal stud of the engine starter motor
solenoid. The battery negative cable terminal clamp
is also crimped onto the ends of two wires. One wire
has an eyelet terminal that connects the battery neg-
ative cable to the vehicle powertrain through a stud
on the front of the left engine cylinder head. The
other wire has an eyelet terminal that connects the
battery negative cable to the vehicle body through a
ground screw on the left front fender inner shield,
just ahead of the battery. An additional ground wire
with two eyelet terminals is used to provide ground
to the vehicle frame. One eyelet terminal of this
ground wire is installed under the head of the bat-
tery negative cable terminal clamp pinch-bolt, and
the other eyelet terminal is secured with a ground
screw to the outer surface of the left frame rail,
below the battery.
DIESEL ENGINE
The left battery positive cable terminal clamp is
die cast onto the ends of two wires. One wire has an
eyelet terminal that connects the left battery positive
cable to the B(+) terminal stud of the Power Distri-
bution Center (PDC), and the other wire has an eye-
let terminal that connects the left battery positive
cable to the B(+) terminal stud of the engine starter
motor solenoid. The right battery positive cable ter-
minal clamp is die cast onto the end of a single wire.
The eyelet terminal on the other end of the right bat-
tery positive cable is connected to the stud on the
pinch-bolt of the left battery positive cable terminal
clamp. This stud also provides a connection point for
the eyelet terminals from the fuel heater relay and
intake air heater relay jumper harness take outs. All
of these eyelet terminals are secured to the left bat-
tery positive cable terminal clamp pinch-bolt stud
with a single hex nut.The left battery negative cable terminal clamp is
die cast onto the ends of two wires. One wire has an
eyelet terminal that connects the left battery nega-
tive cable to the vehicle powertrain through a ground
screw on the left side of the engine block, below the
power steering and vacuum pumps. The other wire
has an eyelet terminal that connects the left battery
negative cable to the vehicle body through a ground
screw on the left front fender inner shield, just ahead
of the left battery. An additional ground wire with
two eyelet terminals is used to provide ground to the
vehicle frame. One eyelet terminal of this ground
wire is installed under the nut of the left battery
negative cable terminal clamp pinch-bolt, and the
other eyelet terminal is secured with a ground screw
to the outer surface of the left frame rail, below the
left battery. The right battery negative cable terminal
is also die cast onto the ends of two wires. One wire
has an eyelet terminal that connects the right bat-
tery negative cable to the vehicle powertrain through
a ground screw on the right side of the engine block,
just forward of the right engine mount. The other
wire has an eyelet terminal that connects the right
battery negative cable to the vehicle body through a
ground screw on the right front fender inner shield,
just behind the right battery.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BATTERY CABLES
A voltage drop test will determine if there is exces-
sive resistance in the battery cable terminal connec-
tions or the battery cables. If excessive resistance is
found in the battery cable connections, the connec-
tion point should be disassembled, cleaned of all cor-
rosion or foreign material, then reassembled.
Following reassembly, check the voltage drop for the
battery cable connection and the battery cable again
to confirm repair.
When performing the voltage drop test, it is impor-
tant to remember that the voltage drop is giving an
indication of the resistance between the two points at
which the voltmeter probes are attached.EXAM-
PLE:When testing the resistance of the battery pos-
itive cable, touch the voltmeter leads to the battery
positive cable terminal clamp and to the battery pos-
itive cable eyelet terminal at the starter solenoid
B(+) terminal stud. If you probe the battery positive
terminal post and the battery positive cable eyelet
terminal at the starter solenoid B(+) terminal stud,
you are reading the combined voltage drop in the
battery positive cable terminal clamp-to-terminal
post connection and the battery positive cable.
BR/BEBATTERY SYSTEM 8F - 19
BATTERY CABLE (Continued)

(4) Disconnect the starter motor signal wire har-
ness connector, located on the PDC housing.
(5) Disengage wire harness assembly pushpin
retainers.
(6) From under the vehicle, disengage wire har-
ness assembly pushpin retainers.
(7) Remove the positive battery cable from the
starter motor B+ terminal stud.
(8) Remove the starter motor trigger wire from the
starter motor.
(9) Remove the positive cable wire harness assem-
bly from the vehicle.
NEGATIVE CABLE REMOVAL - GASOLINE
ENGINE
Both the battery negative cable and the battery
positive cable are serviced in the battery wire har-
ness. If either battery cable is damaged or faulty, the
battery wire harness unit must be replaced.
(1) Turn the ignition switch to the Off position. Be
certain that all electrical accessories are turned off.
(2) Loosen the battery negative cable terminal
clamp pinch-bolt hex nut.
(3) Disconnect the battery negative cable terminal
clamp from the battery negative terminal post. If
necessary, use a battery terminal puller to remove
the terminal clamp from the battery post.
(4) Remove the negative cable jumper from the left
side of the radiator closure panel.
(5) Remove the negative cable jumper from the left
side of the frame assembly.
(6) Remove the PDC cover and remove the gener-
ator output wire from the PDC.
(7) Following the wire, remove the pushpin retain-
ers holding the wire assembly in place.
(8) Remove the negative cable eyelet from the
power steering pump pivot bolt.
(9) Remove the generator output wire from the
generator.
(10) Remove the negative battery cable assembly,
by fishing out from under the compressor mounting
bracket, if equipped.
INSTALLATION
POSITIVE CABLE INSTALLATION - GASOLINE
ENGINE
(1) Position the battery wire harness into the
engine compartment.
(2) Install the positive battery cable on the battery.
(3) Install the positive battery cable on the PDC.
(4) Install the cover on the PDC.
(5) Connect the starter motor signal wire harness
connector, located on the PDC housing.(6) Install wire harness assembly pushpin retain-
ers in their original position.
(7) From under the vehicle, install wire harness
assembly pushpin retainers.
(8) Install and tighten the nut that secures the
battery positive cable eyelet terminal to the B(+) ter-
minal stud on the starter solenoid. Tighten the nut to
10 N´m (90 in. lbs.).
(9) Connect the starter motor trigger wire on the
starter motor.
(10) Reconnect the battery positive cable terminal
clamp to the battery positive terminal post. Tighten
the terminal clamp pinch-bolt hex nut to 4 N´m (35
in. lbs.).
(11) Apply a thin coating of petroleum jelly or
chassis grease to the exposed surfaces of the battery
cable terminal clamps and the battery terminal
posts.
NEGATIVE CABLE INSTALLATION - GASOLINE
ENGINE
(1) Position the battery wire harness into the
engine compartment and under the compressor
mounting bracket, if equipped.
(2) Install and tighten the nut that secures the
battery negative cable ground eyelet terminal to the
stud on the power steering pump pivot bolt.
(3) Install the generator output cable eyelet termi-
nal onto the generator output terminal stud.
(4) Install and tighten the nut that secures the
generator output cable eyelet terminal to the genera-
tor output terminal stud. Tighten the nut to 8.4 N´m
(75 in. lbs.).
(5) Position the cover for the generator output ter-
minal stud housing onto the back of the generator
and snap it into place.
(6) Secure wire assembly in place with pushpin
retainers in there original positions.
(7) Install and tighten the screw that secures the
battery negative cable eyelet terminal to the radiator
closure panel, near the battery. Tighten the screw to
40 in. lbs.
(8) Install and tighten the screw that secures the
battery negative cable eyelet terminal to the left
front side of the frame assembly. Tighten the screw
to 80 in. lbs.
(9) Install and tighten the nut that secures the
battery positive cable eyelet terminal and the gener-
ator output cable eyelet terminal to the PDC B(+)
terminal stud. Tighten the nut to 80 in. lbs.
(10) Reconnect the battery negative cable terminal
clamp to the battery negative terminal post. Tighten
the terminal clamp pinch-bolt hex nut to 35 in. lbs.
(11)
Apply a thin coating of petroleum jelly or chas-
sis grease to the exposed surfaces of the battery cable
terminal clamps and the battery terminal posts.
8F - 22 BATTERY SYSTEMBR/BE
BATTERY CABLE (Continued)

BATTERY TRAY
DESCRIPTION
The battery is mounted in a molded plastic tray
(Fig. 25) with an integral support located in the left
front corner of the engine compartment. A U-nut held
in a molded formation on each side of the battery
tray provides anchor points for the battery hold down
bolts. The battery tray is secured on the outboard
side to the inner fender shield by two hex screws
with washers, and from underneath the integral bat-
tery tray support is secured to the left front wheel-
house inner panel by two stud plates. Each stud
plate has two studs and is secured by two nuts with
washers. The stud plate that secures the front of the
battery tray support to the wheelhouse inner panel is
installed through the wheelhouse panel from the top.
The stud plate that secures the rear of the battery
tray support to the wheelhouse inner panel is
installed through the wheelhouse panel from the bot-
tom.
A hole in the bottom of the battery tray is fitted
with a battery temperature sensor (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/CHARGING/BATTERY TEMPERA-
TURE SENSOR - DESCRIPTION). Models that are
equipped with an optional vehicle speed control sys-tem have the speed control servo secured to the inte-
gral battery tray support.
Models that are equipped with the diesel engine
option have a second battery tray located in the right
front corner of the engine compartment. This second
battery tray and its mounting are mirror image of
the standard equipment left battery tray. However,
the right battery tray and support have no provisions
for a battery temperature sensor or a speed control
servo mounting bracket.
OPERATION
The battery tray provides a secure mounting loca-
tion and supports the battery. On some vehicles, the
battery tray also provides the anchor point/s for the
battery holddown hardware. The battery tray and
the battery holddown hardware combine to secure
and stabilize the battery in the engine compartment,
which prevents battery movement during vehicle
operation. Unrestrained battery movement during
vehicle operation could result in damage to the vehi-
cle, the battery, or both.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the battery from the battery tray
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/BATTERY SYSTEM/BAT-
TERY - REMOVAL).
(2) If the left battery tray is being removed,
remove the battery temperature sensor from the left
battery tray (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/CHARGING/
BATTERY TEMPERATURE SENSOR - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the two screws with washers that
secure the outboard side of the battery tray to the
inner fender shield (Fig. 26).
(4) From the engine compartment, remove the two
nuts with washers that secure the rear of the battery
tray support to the two studs that extend through
the top of the front wheelhouse inner panel.
(5) From inside the front fender wheelhouse,
remove the two nuts with washers that secure the
front of the battery tray support to the two studs
that extend through the underside of the front wheel-
house inner panel.
(6) From inside the front fender wheelhouse,
remove the stud plate that secures the rear of the
battery tray support from the underside of the front
wheelhouse inner panel.
(7) From the engine compartment, remove the bat-
tery tray and the stud plate that secures the front of
the battery tray support from the front wheelhouse
inner panel as a unit.
(8) If the vehicle is equipped with the optional
vehicle speed control package, the speed control servo
must be removed from the left battery tray support
to complete battery tray removal.
Fig. 25 Battery Tray - Typical
1 - STUD PLATE (2)
2 - NUT AND WASHER (4)
3 - FRONT WHEELHOUSE INNER PANEL
4 - SPEED CONTROL SERVO
5 - TRAY
6 - SCREW AND WASHER (2)
7 - BATTERY TREMPERATURE SENSOR
8 - U-NUT (2)
9 - FENDER INNER SHIELD
BR/BEBATTERY SYSTEM 8F - 23

INSTALLATION
(1) Clean and inspect the battery tray (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/BATTERY SYSTEM - CLEANING).
(2) If the vehicle is equipped with the optional
vehicle speed control package, the speed control servo
must be installed onto the left battery tray support
to complete battery tray installation.(3) Install the stud plate onto the front of the bat-
tery tray support.
(4) From the engine compartment, position the
battery tray and the stud plate that secures the front
of the battery tray support onto the front wheelhouse
inner panel as a unit.
(5) From inside the front fender wheelhouse,
loosely install the two nuts with washers that secure
the front of the battery tray support to the two studs
that extend through the underside of the front wheel-
house inner panel.
(6) From inside the front fender wheelhouse, posi-
tion the stud plate that secures the rear of the bat-
tery tray support onto the underside of the front
wheelhouse inner panel.
(7) From the engine compartment, loosely install
the two nuts with washers that secure the rear of the
battery tray support to the two studs that extend
through the top of the front wheelhouse inner panel.
(8) Install and tighten the two screws with wash-
ers that secure the outboard side of the battery tray
to the inner fender shield. Tighten the screws to 15.8
N´m (140 in. lbs.).
(9) Final tighten the four nuts with washers that
secure the battery tray support to the stud plates on
the front wheelhouse inner panel. Tighten the nuts
to 15.8 N´m (140 in. lbs.).
(10) If the left battery tray is being installed,
install the battery temperature sensor onto the left
battery tray (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/CHARGING/
BATTERY TEMPERATURE SENSOR - INSTALLA-
TION).
(11) Install the battery onto the battery tray (Refer
to 8 - ELECTRICAL/BATTERY SYSTEM/BATTERY -
INSTALLATION).
Fig. 26 Left Battery Tray Remove/Install - Typical for
Right Battery Tray
1 - STUD PLATE (2)
2 - NUT AND WASHER (4)
3 - FRONT WHEELHOUSE INNER PANEL
4 - SPEED CONTROL SERVO
5 - TRAY
6 - SCREW AND WASHER (2)
7 - BATTERY TREMPERATURE SENSOR
8 - U-NUT (2)
9 - FENDER INNER SHIELD
8F - 24 BATTERY SYSTEMBR/BE
BATTERY TRAY (Continued)

the feed of battery voltage to the starter motor, also
engaging and disengaging the starter pinion gear
with the starter ring gear.
All starter motors use an overrunning clutch and
starter pinion gear unit to engage and drive a starter
ring gear that is integral to the flywheel (manual
transmission), torque converter or torque converter
drive plate (automatic transmission) mounted on the
rear crankshaft flange.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - STARTER MOTOR
Correct starter motor operation can be confirmed
by performing the following free running bench test.
This test can only be performed with starter motor
removed from vehicle. Refer to Starter Specifications
for starter motor specifications.
(1) Remove starter motor from vehicle. Refer to
Starter MotorRemoval and Installation.
(2) Mount starter motor securely in a soft-jawed
bench vise. The vise jaws should be clamped on
mounting flange of starter motor. Never clamp on
starter motor by field frame.
(3) Connect suitable volt-ampere tester and 12-volt
battery to starter motor in series, and set ammeter to
100 ampere scale (250 ampere scale for diesel engine
starters). See instructions provided by manufacturer
of volt-ampere tester being used.
(4) Install jumper wire from solenoid terminal to
solenoid battery terminal. The starter motor should
operate. If starter motor fails to operate, replace
faulty starter motor assembly.
(5) Adjust carbon pile load of tester to obtain free
running test voltage. Refer to Specifications for the
starter motor free running test voltage specifications.
(6) Note reading on ammeter and compare this
reading to free running test maximum amperage
draw. Refer to Specifications for starter motor free
running test maximum amperage draw specifica-
tions.
(7) If ammeter reading exceeds maximum amper-
age draw specification, replace faulty starter motor
assembly.
STARTER MOTOR SOLENOID
This test can only be performed with starter motor
removed from vehicle.
(1) Remove starter motor. Refer toStarter Motor
Removal and Installation.
(2) Disconnect wire from solenoid field coil termi-
nal.
(3) Check for continuity between solenoid terminal
and solenoid field coil terminal with continuity tester
(Fig. 7). There should be continuity. If OK, go to Step
4. If not OK, replace faulty starter motor assembly.(4) Check for continuity between solenoid terminal
and solenoid case (Fig. 8). There should be continuity.
If not OK, replace faulty starter motor assembly.
REMOVAL
5.9L GASOLINE ENGINE
(1) Disconnect and isolate negative battery cable.
(2) Raise and support vehicle.
(3) Remove nut and lock washer securing starter
motor to mounting stud (Fig. 9).
(4) While supporting starter motor, remove upper
mounting bolt from starter motor.
(5) If equipped with automatic transmission, slide
cooler tube bracket forward on tubes far enough for
starter motor mounting flange to be removed from
lower mounting stud.
(6) Move starter motor towards front of vehicle far
enough for nose of starter pinion housing to clear
housing. Always support starter motor during this
process, do not let starter motor hang from wire har-
ness.
(7) Tilt nose downwards and lower starter motor
far enough to access and remove nut that secures
battery positive cable wire harness connector eyelet
Fig. 7 Continuity Test Between Solenoid Terminal
and Field Coil Terminal - Typical
1 - OHMMETER
2 - SOLENOID TERMINAL
3 - FIELD COIL TERMINAL
Fig. 8 Continuity Test Between Solenoid Terminal
and Solenoid Case - Typical
1 - SOLENOID TERMINAL
2 - OHMMETER
3 - SOLENOID
8F - 38 STARTINGBR/BE
STARTER MOTOR (Continued)

to solenoid battery terminal stud. Do not let starter
motor hang from wire harness.
(8) Remove battery positive cable wire harness
connector eyelet from solenoid battery terminal stud.
(9) Disconnect battery positive cable wire harness
connector from solenoid terminal connector recepta-
cle.
(10) Remove starter motor.
5.9L DIESEL ENGINE
(1) Disconnect and isolate negative cables of both
batteries.
(2) Raise and support vehicle.
(3) Pull back protective rubber boot from solenoid
battery terminal far enough to access and remove
nut securing battery positive cable wire harness con-
nector eyelet to solenoid battery terminal stud (Fig.
10).
(4) Remove nut securing battery positive cable
wire harness solenoid connector eyelet to solenoid
terminal stud.
(5) Remove battery positive cable wire harness
connector eyelets from solenoid terminal studs.(6) While supporting starter motor, remove three
bolts securing starter motor to flywheel housing (Fig.
10) and (Fig. 11).
(7) Remove starter motor from engine (certain die-
sel engines have an aluminum spacer mounted
between the starter and the starter mounting flange.
Note position and orientation of spacer before remov-
al).
8.0L GASOLINE ENGINE
(1) Disconnect and isolate negative battery cable.
(2) Raise and support vehicle.
(3) Remove nut securing battery positive cable
wire harness connector eyelet to solenoid battery ter-
minal stud (Fig. 12).
(4) Remove battery positive cable connector eyelet
from solenoid battery terminal stud.
(5) Disconnect battery positive cable wire harness
connector from solenoid terminal connector recepta-
cle.
Fig. 9 Starter Motor Remove/Install - 5.9L Gasoline
Engine
1 - ENGINE
2 - STARTER MOUNTING FLANGE
3 - STUD
4 - STARTER MOTOR
5 - LOCK WASHER
6 - NUT
7 - BRACKET
8 - BOLT
9 - POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE WIRE HARNESS
10 - POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE WIRE HARNESS NUT
Fig. 10 Starter Motor Wire Harness Remove/Install -
5.9L Diesel Engine
1 - SOLENOID WIRE
2 - MOUNTING BOLTS (3)
3 - BATTERY TERMINAL
BR/BESTARTING 8F - 39
STARTER MOTOR (Continued)

(6) Support starter motor and remove two bolts
securing starter motor to engine.
(7) Remove starter motor from engine.
INSTALLATION
5.9L GASOLINE ENGINE
(1) Connect wiring harness to starter motor and
tighten eyelet nut to 25 N´m (221 in. lbs.). Do not
allow starter motor to hang from wire harness.
(2) Position starter motor to starter mounting
flange.
(3) If equipped with automatic transmission, slide
cooler tube bracket into position.
(4) Loosely install upper bolt.
(5) Position lock washer and loosely install lower
nut.
(6) Tighten upper bolt to 67.8 N´m (50 ft. lbs.).
(7) Tighten lower nut to 67.8 N´m (50 ft. lbs.).
(8) Lower vehicle.
(9) Connect battery cable.
5.9L DIESEL ENGINE
(1) If equipped, position aluminum spacer to rear
of starter.
(2) Position starter motor to engine.
(3) Support starter and loosely install three
mounting bolts.
(4) Tighten 3 bolts to 43.4 N´m (32 ft. lbs.).
(5) Position wiring eyelets to starter studs and
install nuts. Tighten small nut to 6.2 N´m (55 in.
lbs.). Tighten large nut to 13.6 N´m (120 in. lbs.).
(6) Install protective rubber boot over stud.
(7) Lower vehicle.
(8) Connect battery cables to both batteries.
8.0L GASOLINE ENGINE
(1) Support starter motor and loosely install two
bolts securing starter motor to engine.
(2) Tighten 2 bolts to 67.8 N´m (50 ft. lbs.).
(3) Connect solenoid wire to solenoid terminal.
(4) Position battery cable eyelet to starter stud.
Install nut and tighten to 13.6 N´m (120 in. lbs.).
(5) Lower vehicle.
(6) Connect battery cable.
Fig. 11 Starter Motor Remove/Install - 5.9L Diesel
Engine
1 - MOUNTING BOLT
Fig. 12 Starter Motor Remove/Install - 8.0L Gasoline
Engine
1 - ENGINE
2 - BATTERY POSITIVE CABLE WIRE HARNESS
3 - NUT
4 - STARTER MOTOR
5 - SCREW AND WASHER (2)
8F - 40 STARTINGBR/BE
STARTER MOTOR (Continued)

OPERATION - HEATED MIRROR SYSTEM
The solid state electronic control logic and timer
circuitry for the heated mirror system receives bat-
tery current from a fuse in the Junction Block (JB)
only when the ignition switch is in the On or Start
positions. After the heated mirror system is turned
On, the electronic control logic and timer circuitry
will automatically turn the system off after a pro-
grammed time interval of about fifteen minutes.
After the initial time interval has expired, if the
heated mirror switch is depressed and released a sec-
ond time during the same ignition cycle, the elec-
tronic control logic and timer circuitry will
automatically turn the heated mirror system off after
a programmed time interval of about five minutes.
The heated mirror system will be shut off automati-
cally if the ignition switch is turned to the Off or
Accessory positions. After the heated mirror system
is turned On, it can also be turned off manually by
depressing and releasing the heated mirror switch a
second time.
When the heated mirror system is turned On, the
heated mirror system control logic and timer cir-
cuitry energizes the heated mirror system indicator
lamp and the heated mirror relay. When energized,
the heated mirror relay supplies fused ignition
switch output (run/start) current from a fuse in the
JB to the outside mirror heating grids located behind
the mirror glass of each of the outside rear view mir-
rors. When energized, each of the outside mirror
heating grids produces enough heat to warm the
glass of the outside rear view mirrors.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HEATED MIRROR
SYSTEM
If only one of the outside mirror heating grids is
inoperative, perform continuity checks on the circuits
and heater grid for that mirror only. If both outside
mirror heating grids are inoperative, proceed with
the heated mirror system diagnosis as follows. (Refer
to Appropriate Wiring Information).
WARNING: ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIR-
BAGS, DISABLE THE AIRBAG SYSTEM BEFORE
ATTEMPTING ANY STEERING WHEEL, STEERING
COLUMN, OR INSTRUMENT PANEL COMPONENT
DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. DISCONNECT AND ISO-
LATE THE BATTERY NEGATIVE (GROUND) CABLE,
THEN WAIT TWO MINUTES FOR THE AIRBAG SYS-
TEM CAPACITOR TO DISCHARGE BEFORE PER-
FORMING FURTHER DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. THIS
IS THE ONLY SURE WAY TO DISABLE THE AIRBAG
SYSTEM. FAILURE TO TAKE THE PROPER PRE-
CAUTIONS COULD RESULT IN ACCIDENTAL AIR-
BAG DEPLOYMENT AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL
INJURY.The operation of the heated mirror system can be
confirmed in one of the following manners:
²Turn the ignition switch to the On position.
While monitoring the instrument panel voltmeter,
momentarily depress and release the heated mirror
switch. When the heated mirror system is turned On,
a distinct voltmeter needle deflection should be
noted.
²Turn the ignition switch to the On position.
Momentarily depress and release the heated mirror
switch to turn the heated mirror system On. The
heated mirror operation can be checked by feeling
the outside rear view mirror glass. A distinct differ-
ence in temperature between the unheated and
heated mirror glass can be detected within three to
four minutes of system operation.
The above checks will confirm system operation.
Illumination of the heated mirror system indicator
lamp means that there is electrical current available
at the heated mirror relay, but does not confirm that
the electrical current is reaching the outside mirror
heating grids.
If the heated mirror system does not operate, the
problem should be isolated in the following manner:
(1) Confirm that the ignition switch is in the On
position.
(2) Check the fuses in the Power Distribution Cen-
ter (PDC) and in the Junction Block (JB). The fuses
must be tight in their receptacles and all electrical
connections must be secure.
When the above steps have been completed and
both outside mirror heating grids are still inopera-
tive, one or more of the following is faulty:
²Heated mirror switch, electronic control logic
and timer circuitry, and heated mirror relay.
²Heated mirror wire harness circuits or connec-
tors.
²Outside mirror heating grid (both mirror grids
would have to be faulty).
If turning On the heated mirror system produces a
severe voltmeter deflection or fuse failures, check for
a shorted circuit between the output of the heated
mirror relay and the outside mirror heating grids.
MIRROR SWITCH
DESCRIPTION
The heated mirror switch, the heated mirror sys-
tem indicator lamp, the heated mirror system solid
state electronic control logic and timer circuitry and
the heated mirror relay are all integral to the a/c
heater control, which is located between the instru-
ment cluster and the radio near the center of the
instrument cluster bezel on the instrument panel.
The heated mirror switch and the heated mirror sys-
8G - 2 HEATED MIRRORSBR/BE
HEATED MIRRORS (Continued)