check engine DODGE RAM SRT-10 2006 Service Repair Manual

TAPPETS - HYDRAULIC ROLLER
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC TAPPETS
Before disassembling any part of the engine to correct tappet noise, checkthe oil pressure. If vehicle has no oil
pressure gauge, install a reliable gauge at the pressure sending-unit. The pressure should be between 207-552 kPa
(30-70 psi) at 3,000 RPM.
Check the oil level after the engine reaches normal operating temperature. Allow 5 minutes to stabilize oil level,
check dipstick. The oil level in the pan should never be above the FULL mark or below the ADD OIL mark on
dipstick. Either of these two conditions could be responsible for noisy tappets.
OIL LEVEL
HIGH
If oil level is above the FULL mark, it is possible for the connecting rods todip into the oil. With the engine running,
this condition could create foam in the oil pan. Foam in oil pan would be fed to the hydraulic tappets by the oil pump
causing them to lose length and allow valves to seat noisily.
LOW
Low oil level may allow oil pump to take in air. When air is fed to the tappets,they lose length, which allows valves
to seat noisily. Any leaks on intake side of oil pump through which air can bedrawn will create the same tappet
action. Check the lubrication system from the intake strainer to the pump cover, including the relief valve retainer
cap. When tappet noise is due to aeration, it may be intermittent or constant, and usually more than one tappet will
be noisy. When oil level and leaks have been corrected, operate the engine at fast idle. Run engine for a sufficient
time to allow all of the air inside the tappets to be bled out.
TAPPET NOISE DIAGNOSIS
1. To determine source of tappet noise, crank over engine with cylinder head covers removed.
2. Feel each valve spring or rocker arm to detect noisy tappet. The noisy tappet will cause the affected spring
and/or rocker arm to vibrate or feel rough in operation.
NOTE: Worn valve guides or cocked springs are sometimes mistaken for noisytappets. If such is the case,
noise may be dampened by applying side thrust on the valve spring. If noise is not appreciably reduced, it
can be assumed the noise is in the tappet. Inspect the rocker arm push rod sockets and push rod ends for
wear.
3. Valve tappet noise ranges from light noise to a heavy click. A light noiseis usually caused by excessive leak-
down around the unit plunger, or by the plunger partially sticking in the tappet body cylinder. The tappet should
be replaced. A heavy click is caused by a tappet check valve not seating, or by foreign particles wedged between
the plunger and the tappet body. This will cause the plunger to stick in the down position. This heavy click will be
accompanied by excessive clearance between the valve stem and rocker arm as valve closes. In either case,
tappet assembly should be removed for inspection and cleaning.
4. The valve train generates a noise very much like a light tappet noise during normal operation. Care must be
taken to ensure that tappets are making the noise. If more than one tappet seems to be noisy, it’s probably not
the tappets.
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
2. Remove the air cleaner (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/AIR INTAKE SYSTEM - REMOVAL).
3. Remove intake manifold (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD-REMOVAL).
4. Remove cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDERHEAD COVER(S) -
REMOVAL).
5. Remove rocker arm assembly and push rods (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/ROCKER ARM /
ADJUSTER ASSY - REMOVAL). Identify push rods to ensure installation in original location.
6. Remove the cylinder head (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - REMOVAL).

CAUTION: 5.7L engines equipped with MDS uses both standard roller tappetsand deactivating roller tap-
pets, for use with the Multi Displacement System. The deactivating rollertappets must be used in cylinders
1,4,6,7. The deactivating tappets can be identified by the two holes in theside of the tappet body, for the
latching pins.
2. Install tappets in their original positions.
3. Install tappet retainer (1). Install the tappet retainer bolt and tighten to 12 Nꞏm (106 in. lbs.) torque.
4. Install cylinder head (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - INSTALLATION).
5. Install pushrods and rocker arm assembly (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/ROCKER ARM / ADJUSTER
ASSY - INSTALLATION).
6. Install cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - INSTALLA-
TION).
7. Install intake manifold (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD-INSTALLATION).
8. Install the air cleaner (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/AIR INTAKE SYSTEM - INSTALLATION).
9. Connect the negative cable to the battery.
CAUTION: To prevent damage to valve mechanism, engine must not be run abovefast idle until all hydrau-
lic tappets have filled with oil and have become quiet.
10. Road test vehicle and check for leaks.

5. Remove connecting rod cap. Install Special Tool 8507 Connecting Rod Guides into the connecting rod being
removed. Remove piston from cylinder bore. Repeat this procedure for eachpiston being removed.
CAUTION: Care must be taken not to nick crankshaft journals, as engine damage may occur
6. Immediately after piston and connecting rod removal, install bearing cap on the mating connecting rod to prevent
damage to the fractured cap and rod surfaces.
7. Carefully remove piston rings from piston(s), starting from the top ring down.
CLEANING
CAUTION: DO NOT use a wire wheel or other abrasive cleaning devise to clean the pistons or connecting
rods. The pistons have a Moly coating, this coating must not be damaged.
1. Using a suitable cleaning solvent clean the pistons in warm water and towel dry.
2. Use a wood or plastic scraper to clean the ring land grooves.
CAUTION: DO NOT remove the piston pin from the piston and connecting rod assembly.
INSPECTION
Check the connecting rod journal for excessive wear, taper and scoring (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/
CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Check the connecting rod for signs of twist or bending.
Check the piston for taper and elliptical shape before it is fitted into thecylinder bore (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE
BLOCK/PISTON & CONNECTING ROD - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Check the piston for scoring, or scraping marks in the piston skirts. Checkthe ring lands for cracks and/or deteri-
oration.

LUBRICATION
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CHECKING ENGINE OIL PRESSURE
1. Remove oil pressure sending unit and install gauge assembly C-3292.
2. Run engine until thermostat opens.
3. Oil Pressure:
Curb Idle–25 kPa (4 psi) minimum
3000 rpm–170 - 758 kPa (25 - 110 psi)
4. If oil pressure is 0 at idle, shut off engine. Check for a clogged oil pick-up screen or a pressure relief valve stuck
open.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL LEAK
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the engine, particularly at thearea of the suspected leak. If an oil leak
source is not readily identifiable, thefollowingstepsshouldbefollowed:
1. Do not clean or degrease the engine at this time because some solvents maycause rubber to swell, temporarily
stopping the leak.
2. Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for approximately 15
minutes. Check the oil dipstick to make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated with a bright yellow color
under a black light.
3. Using a black light, inspect the entire engine for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area of oil leak. If
the oil leak is found and identified, repair per service manual instructions.
4. If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at various speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and repeat inspec-
tion.If the oil leak source is not positively identified at this time, proceed with the air leak detection test
method.
Air Leak Detection Test Method
1. Remove the PCV valve from the IAFM. Cap or plug the PCV valve grommet.
2. Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to more than 20.6 kPa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
3. Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5 psi maximum while applyingsoapy water at the suspected source.
Adjust the regulator to the suitable test pressure that provide the best bubbles which will pinpoint the leak
source. If the oil leak is detected and identified, repair per service manual procedures.
4. If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area, refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area Leak.
5. If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps. Install the PCV
valve.
6. Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various speeds approx-
imately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the engine for signs of an oil leak by usinga black light.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the source of an oil leak in therear seal area of the engine, a more
involved inspection is necessary. The following steps should be followedto help pinpoint the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal area:
1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Raise the vehicle.
3. Remove torque converter or clutch housing cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil. Use a black light
to check for the oil leak:
a. Circular spray pattern generally indicates seal leakage or crankshaftdamage.

OIL
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE OIL SERVICE
The engine oil level indicator is located at the left hand of the engine on the 5.7L engines.
CRANKCASE OIL LEVEL INSPECTION
CAUTION: Do not overfill crankcase with engine oil, pressure loss or oil foaming can result.
Inspect engine oil level approximately every 800 kilometers (500 miles).Unless the engine has exhibited loss of oil
pressure, run the engine for about ten minutes before checking oil level. Checking engine oil level on a cold engine
is not accurate.
To ensure proper lubrication of an engine, the engine oil must be maintained at an acceptable level. The acceptable
levels are indicated between the ADD and SAFE marks on the engine oil dipstick.
1. Position vehicle on level surface.
2. With engine OFF, allow approximately five minutes for oil to settle to bottom of crankcase, remove engine oil
dipstick.
3. Wipe dipstick clean.
4. Install dipstick and verify it is seated in the tube.
5. Remove dipstick, with handle held above the tip, take oil level reading.
6. Add oil only if level is below the ADD mark on dipstick.
ENGINE OIL CHANGE
Change engine oil at mileage and time intervals described in Maintenance Schedules (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/MAINTENANCESCHEDULES - DESCRIPTION).
Run engine until achieving normal operating temperature.
1. Position the vehicle on a level surface and turn engine off.
2. Hoist and support vehicle on safety stands.
3. Remove oil fill cap.
4. Place a suitable drain pan under crankcase drain.
5. Remove drain plug from crankcase and allow oil to drain into pan. Inspectdrain plug threads for stretching or
other damage. Replace drain plug if damaged.
6. Install drain plug in crankcase. Torque to 34 Nꞏm ( 25 ft. lbs.).
7. Lower vehicle and fill crankcase with specified type and amount of engine oil described in this section.
8. Install oil fill cap.
9. Start engine and inspect for leaks.
10. Stop engine and inspect oil level.
USED ENGINE OIL DISPOSAL
Care should be exercised when disposing used engine oil after it has been drained from a vehicle engine. Refer to
the WARNING at beginning of this section.

PA N - E N G I N E O I L
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Install engine support fixture special tool # 8534.Do not raise engine at this time.
3.For 2WD vehicles,Remove both engine mount to frame through bolts.
4.For 4WD vehicles,Loosen both left and right side engine mount bracket to mount bolts, and remove the lower
bolt on each side. The upper hole in the engine bracket is slotted.
5. Remove the structural dust cover (1). (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/STRUCTURAL COVER -
REMOVAL)
6. Drain engine oil.
7. Remove the front crossmember (Refer to 13 -
FRAME & BUMPERS/FRAME/FRONT CROSS-
MEMBER - REMOVAL).
CAUTION: Only raise the engine enough to pro-
vide clearance for oil pan removal. Check for
proper clearance at fan shroud to fan and cowl to
intake manifold.
8. Raise engine using special tool # 8534 to provide
clearance to remove oil pan.
9. Remove the nuts from the transmission mount to
crossmember.
10. Using suitable transmission jack, raise the trans-
mission approximately 3 inches off of the
crossmember.

11. Install the structural dust cover (1). (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/STRUCTURAL COVER
- INSTALLATION).
12. Install the front crossmember (Refer to 13 -
FRAME & BUMPERS/FRAME/FRONT CROSS-
MEMBER - INSTALLATION).
13. Fill engine oil.
14. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
15. Start engine and check for leaks.

11. Install the timing chain cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN COVER(S) -
INSTALLATION).
12. Refill engine oil.
13. Fill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
14. Connect battery negative cable.
15. Start engine and check for oil and coolant leaks.

DESCRIPTION - CRANKCASE BREATHER
The crankcase breather assembly is integrated into
the cylinder head cover (3) and is not serviced seper-
ately. The external fittings (2) to the breather tube and
breather drain tube are serviceable.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - MECHANICAL
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
LUBRICATING OIL
PRESSURE LOW1. Low oil level. 1. (a) Check and fill with clean engine oil.
(b) Check for a severe external oil leak that
could reduce the pressure.
2. Oil viscosity thin, diluted or wrong
specification.2. (a) Verify the correct engine oil is being
used. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES -
DESCRIPTION).
(b) Look for reduced viscosity from fuel
dilution.
3. Improperly operating pressure
switch/gauge.3. Verify the pressure switch is functioning
correctly. If not, replace switch/gauge.
4. Relief valve stuck open. 4. Check/replace valve.
6. If cooler was replaced, shipping
plugs may have been left in cooler6. Check/remove shipping plugs.
7. Worn oil pump. 7. Check and replace oil pump.
8. Suction tube loose or seal leaking. 8. Check and replace seal.
9. Loose main bearing cap. 9. Check and install new bearing. Tighten
cap to proper torque.
10. Worn bearings or wrong bearings
installed.10. Inspect and replace connecting rod or
main bearings. Check and replace directed
piston cooling nozzles.

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
11. Directed piston cooling nozzles
under piston, bad fit into main
carrier.11. Check directed piston cooling nozzles
position.
12. Loose oil rifle plug with saddle-jet
style nozzles12.Tighten oil rifle plug.
13. Loose directed piston cooling
nozzle.13. Tighten directed piston cooling nozzle.
14. Both J-jet and saddle jet style
cooling nozzle installed.14. Install correct style jet.
LUBRICATING OIL
PRESSURE TOO HIGH1. Pressure switch/gauge not
operating properly.1. Verify pressure switch is functioning
correctly. If not, replace switch/gauge.
ENGINE BREATHER
RESTRICTED2. Engine running too cold. 2. Refer to Coolant Temperature Below
Normal (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
3. Oil viscosity too thick. 3. Make sure the correct oil is being used.
(Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES -
DESCRIPTION).
4. Oil pressure relief valve stuck
closed or binding4. Check and replace valve.
LUBRICATING OIL LOSS 1. External leaks. 1. Visually inspect for oil leaks.Repair as
required.
2. Crankcase being overfilled. 2. Verify that the correct dipstick is being
used.
3. Incorrect oil specification or
viscosity.3. (a) Make sure the correct oil is being
used (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES -
DESCRIPTION).
(b) Look for reduced viscosity from dilution
with fuel.
(c) Review/reduce oil change intervals.
4. Oil cooler leak 4. Check and replace the oil cooler.
5. High blow-by forcing oil out the
breather.5. Check the breather tube area for signs of
oil loss. Perform the required repairs.
6. Turbocharger leaking oil to the air
intake.6. Inspect the air ducts for evidence of oil
transfer. Repair as required.
COMPRESSION KNOCKS 1. Air in the fuel system. 1. Identify location of air leak and repair. Do
not bleed high pressure fuel system.
2. Poor quality fuel or water/gasoline
contaminated fuel.2. Verify by operating from a temporary
tank with good fuel. Clean and flush the
fuel tank. Replace fuel/water separator filter.
3. Engine overloaded. 3. Verify the engine load rating is not being
exceeded.
4. Improperly operating injectors. 4. Check and replace misfiring/inoperative
injectors.
EXCESSIVE VIBRATION 1. Loose or broken engine mounts. 1. Replace engine mounts.
2. Damaged fan or improperly
operating accessories.2. Check and replace the vibrating
components.