DODGE TOWN AND COUNTRY 2001 Service Manual

INSTALLATION
(1) Install replacement wheel stud into flange of
hub and bearing assembly. Install washers on wheel
stud, then install a wheel mounting (lug) nut on stud
with flat side of lug nut against washers as shown
(Fig. 31).
(2) Tighten the nut, pulling the wheel stud into
the flange of the hub and bearing. When the head ofthe stud is fully seated against the rear of the hub
flange, remove nut and washers from stud.
(3) Install the brake rotor back on the hub and
bearing (Fig. 29).
(4) Install brake caliper and adapter back over
brake rotor aligning adapter with mounting holes on
steering knuckle (Fig. 29).
(5) Install the two adapter mounting bolts securing
the adapter to the steering knuckle. Tighten the
mounting bolts to 169 N´m (125 ft. lbs.) torque.
(6) Install wheel and tire assembly on vehicle.
Tighten the wheel mounting lug nuts in proper
sequence until all nuts are torqued to half specifica-
tion, then repeat the tightening sequence to the full
specified torque of 135 N´m (100 ft. lbs.).
(7) Lower vehicle to the ground.
WHEEL MOUNTING STUDS -
REAR
REMOVAL
CAUTION: If a wheel attaching stud needs to be
replaced in the hub and bearing assembly the studs
MUST NOT be hammered out of the hub flange. If a
stud is removed by hammering it out of the bearing
flange, damage to the hub and bearing assembly
will occur leading to premature hub and bearing
failure.
(1) Raise vehicle on jackstands or centered on a
frame contact type hoist. See Hoisting in Lubrication
and Maintenance.
Fig. 29 Front Brake Mounting
1 - BRAKE ROTOR
2 - HUB AND BEARING
3 - STEERING KNUCKLE
4 - ADAPTER MOUNTING BOLTS
5 - BRAKE CALIPER
6 - ADAPTER
7 - CLIP
Fig. 30 Wheel Stud Removal (Typical)
1 - WHEEL MOUNTING (LUG) NUT
2 - HUB AND BEARING ASSEMBLY
3 - SPECIAL TOOL C-4150A
4 - STEERING KNUCKLE
5 - WHEEL STUD
Fig. 31 Installing Wheel Stud (Typical)
1 - WASHERS
2 - HUB AND BEARING ASSEMBLY
3 - WHEEL MOUNTING (LUG) NUT
4 - STEERING KNUCKLE
22 - 16 TIRES/WHEELSRS
WHEEL MOUNTING STUDS - FRONT (Continued)
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(2) Remove the rear wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Remove the brake drum or disc brake caliper
and rotor. Refer to Brakes.
(4) Install a lug nut on the wheel stud to be
removed from the hub and bearing assembly (Fig. 32)
so the threads on stud are even with end of lug nut.
Install Remover, Special Tool C-4150A on hub and
bearing assembly flange and wheel stud (Fig. 32).
(5) Tightening down on special tool will push
wheel stud out of the hub and bearing assembly
flange.
(6) Remove lug nut from stud and remove wheel
stud from flange.INSTALLATION
(1) Install replacement wheel stud into flange of
hub and bearing assembly. Install washers on wheel
stud, then install a wheel lug nut on stud with flat
side of lug nut against washers (Fig. 33).
(2) Tighten the wheel lug nut, pulling the wheel
stud into the flange of the hub and bearing assembly.
When the head of the stud is fully seated against the
bearing flange, remove lug nut and washers from
wheel stud.
(3) Install the brake drum or disc brake rotor and
caliper on the hub and bearing assembly.
(4) Install wheel and tire assembly on vehicle.
Tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper
sequence until all nuts are torqued to half specifica-
tion. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full
specified torque of 135 N´m (100 ft. lbs.).
(5) Lower vehicle to the ground.
Fig. 32 Wheel Stud Removal From Hub And Bearing
1 - HUB AND BEARING ASSEMBLY
2 - WHEEL MOUNTING (LUG) NUT
3 - WHEEL STUD
4 - SPECIAL TOOL C-4150A
Fig. 33 Wheel Stud Installation
1 - WHEEL MOUNTING (LUG) NUT
2 - HUB AND BEARING ASSEMBLY
3 - WASHERS
4 - WHEEL STUD
RSTIRES/WHEELS22-17
WHEEL MOUNTING STUDS - REAR (Continued)
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BODY
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
BODY
DESCRIPTION............................1
WARNING...............................2
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING..................2
WATER LEAKS..........................2
WIND NOISE...........................3
STANDARD PROCEDURE...................4
PLASTIC BODY PANEL REPAIR.............4
HEAT STAKING.........................8
SPECIFICATIONS.........................9
SPECIAL TOOLS........................151DOOR - FRONT.........................152
DOORS - SLIDING.......................162
DECKLID/HATCH/LIFTGATE/TAILGATE.......180
EXTERIOR.............................184
HOOD................................199
INSTRUMENT PANEL....................202
INTERIOR.............................208
PAINT................................220
SEATS................................222
STATIONARY GLASS.....................243
WEATHERSTRIP/SEALS..................248
BODY
DESCRIPTION - LOCK CYLINDERS
Ignition, door, deck lid, and rear hatch lock cylin-
ders are all codable to the key. Lock barrels, tum-
blers, and tumbler springs are available to allow the
technician to change replacement locks cylinders to
match the customer's original key set. See the appro-
priate section in this manual for lock cylinder
removal. See the Moparž catalogue for part numbers
and lock coding procedures.
DESCRIPTION - VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION
Throughout this group, references to the
DaimlerChrysler Corporation vehicle family identifi-
cation code are used when describing a procedure
that is unique to that vehicle. Refer to Introduction
Group of this manual for detailed information on
vehicle identification. If a procedure is common to all
vehicles covered in this manual, no reference will be
made to a vehicle family code.
DESCRIPTION - PUSH-IN FASTENERS
DaimlerChrysler Corporation uses many different
types of push-in fasteners to secure the interior and
exterior trim to the body. Most of these fasteners can
be reused to assemble the trim during various repair
procedures. At times, a push-in fastener cannot be
removed without damaging the fastener or the com-
ponent it is holding. If it is not possible to remove a
fastener without damaging a component or body, cut
or break the fastener and use a new one when
installing the component. Never pry or pound on a
plastic or pressed-board trim component. Using a
suitable fork-type prying device, pry the fastener
from the retaining hole behind the component beingremoved. When installing, verify fastener alignment
with the retaining hole by hand. Push directly on or
over the fastener until it seats. Apply a low-force pull
to the panel to verify that it is secure.
When it is necessary to remove components to ser-
vice another, it should not be necessary to apply
excessive force or bend a component to remove it.
Before damaging a trim component, verify hidden
fasteners or captured edges holding the component in
place.
DESCRIPTION
PAINT
The original equipment finish is a multi-step pro-
cess that involves cleaning, electrodeposition (e-coat),
base coat, and clear coat steps. Additionally, selected
areas of the vehicle may be coated with an anti-chip
finish.
On most vehicles a two-stage paint application
(base coat/clear coat) is used. Color that is applied to
primer is called base coat. The clear coat protects the
base coat from ultraviolet light and provides a dura-
ble high-gloss finish.
STATIONARY GLASS
Windshields are made of two pieces of glass with a
plastic inner layer. Windshields and selected station-
ary glass are structural members of the vehicle. The
windshield glass is bonded to the windshield frame
with urethane adhesive.
Windshields and other stationary glass protect the
occupants from the effects of the elements. Wind-
shields are also used to retain some airbags in posi-
tion during deployment. Urethane bonded glass is
difficult to salvage during removal. The urethane
bonding is difficult to cut or clean from any surface.
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Before removing the glass, check the availability of
replacement components.
SEATS
Seat modules are made up of a seat frame, seat
cushion, seat back cushion, a covering material, and
the electrical components used for power operation, if
equipped. Some seat systems also contain seat belt
components and supplemental restraint systems.
Seat assemblies transport the occupants in comfort
and safety. Seat assemblies also help position occu-
pants correctly in the event of airbag deployment.
Seat cushions, coverings, and electrical components
are serviceable. Refer to the appropriate group in
this manual.
EXTERIOR COMPONENTS
Exterior sheet metal components make up the
exterior of the vehicle. Some exterior metal systems
are welded assemblies, such as doors and hoods.
Some exterior trim items are made of composite.
The exterior is finished in various metal stampings
and composite moldings. These assemblies give the
vehicle a finished appearance and protect the occu-
pants from the elements. Some components are part
of the energy absorbing system used to protect the
occupants in collisions. The exterior sheet metal is
repairable and adjustable for fit and finish. Welded
and bonded component systems are adjustable as a
system. Trim components made of composite are
stamped with the type of material used.
DaimlerChrysler uses various fasteners to retain
trim items. At times, it is not possible to remove trim
items without damaging the fastener. If it is not pos-
sible to remove an item without damaging a compo-
nent, cut or break the fasteners and use new ones
when installing the component.
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS AND WARNINGS
WARNING:
EYE PROTECTION SHOULD BE USED WHEN SER-
VICING GLASS COMPONENTS. PERSONAL INJURY
CAN RESULT.
USE A OSHA APPROVED BREATHING FILTER
WHEN SPRAYING PAINT OR SOLVENTS IN A CON-
FINED AREA. PERSONAL INJURY CAN RESULT.
AVOID PROLONGED SKIN CONTACT WITH PETRO-
LEUM OR ALCOHOL BASED CLEANING SOLVENTS.
PERSONAL INJURY CAN RESULT.
DO NOT STAND UNDER A HOISTED VEHICLE THAT
IS NOT PROPERLY SUPPORTED ON SAFETY
STANDS. PERSONAL INJURY CAN RESULT.
CAUTION:
When holes must be drilled or punched in an innerbody panel, verify depth of space to the outer body
panel, electrical wiring, or other components. Dam-
age to vehicle can result.
Do not weld exterior panels unless combustible
material on the interior of vehicle is removed from
the repair area. Fire or hazardous conditions, can
result.
Always have a fire extinguisher ready for use when
welding.
Disconnect the negative battery cable clamp when
servicing electrical components that are live when
the ignition is OFF. Damage to electrical system can
result.
Do not use abrasive chemicals or compounds on
painted surfaces. Damage to finish can result.
Do not use harsh alkaline based cleaning solvents
on painted or upholstered surfaces. Damage to fin-
ish or color can result.
Do not hammer or pound on plastic trim panel
when servicing interior trim. Plastic panels can
break.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - WATER LEAKS
Water leaks can be caused by poor sealing,
improper body component alignment, body seam
porosity, missing plugs, or blocked drain holes. Cen-
trifugal and gravitational force can cause water to
drip from a location away from the actual leak point,
making leak detection difficult. All body sealing
points should be water tight in normal wet-driving
conditions. Water flowing downward from the front of
the vehicle should not enter the passenger or luggage
compartment. Moving sealing surfaces will not
always seal water tight under all conditions. At
times, side glass or door seals will allow water to
enter the passenger compartment during high pres-
sure washing or hard driving rain (severe) condi-
tions. Overcompensating on door or glass
adjustments to stop a water leak that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After completing
a repair, water test vehicle to verify leak has stopped
before returning vehicle to use.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE WATER LEAK TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place, body
drains are clear, and body components are properly
aligned and sealed. If component alignment or seal-
ing is necessary, refer to the appropriate section of
this group for proper procedures.
WATER LEAK TESTS
WARNING: DO NOT USE ELECTRIC SHOP LIGHTS
OR TOOLS IN WATER TEST AREA. PERSONAL
INJURY CAN RESULT.
23 - 2 BODYRS
BODY (Continued)
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When the conditions causing a water leak have
been determined, simulate the conditions as closely
as possible.
²If a leak occurs with the vehicle parked in a
steady light rain, flood the leak area with an open-
ended garden hose.
²If a leak occurs while driving at highway speeds
in a steady rain, test the leak area with a reasonable
velocity stream or fan spray of water. Direct the
spray in a direction comparable to actual conditions.
²If a leak occurs when the vehicle is parked on an
incline, hoist the end or side of the vehicle to simu-
late this condition. This method can be used when
the leak occurs when the vehicle accelerates, stops or
turns. If the leak occurs on acceleration, hoist the
front of the vehicle. If the leak occurs when braking,
hoist the back of the vehicle. If the leak occurs on left
turns, hoist the left side of the vehicle. If the leak
occurs on right turns, hoist the right side of the vehi-
cle. For hoisting recommendations refer to Group 0,
Lubrication and Maintenance, General Information
section.
WATER LEAK DETECTION
To detect a water leak point-of-entry, do a water
test and watch for water tracks or droplets forming
on the inside of the vehicle. If necessary, remove inte-
rior trim covers or panels to gain visual access to the
leak area. If the hose cannot be positioned without
being held, have someone help do the water test.
Some water leaks must be tested for a considerable
length of time to become apparent. When a leak
appears, find the highest point of the water track or
drop. The highest point usually will show the point of
entry. After leak point has been found, repair the
leak and water test to verify that the leak has
stopped.
Locating the entry point of water that is leaking
into a cavity between panels can be difficult. The
trapped water may splash or run from the cavity,
often at a distance from the entry point. Most water
leaks of this type become apparent after accelerating,
stopping, turning, or when on an incline.
MIRROR INSPECTION METHOD
When a leak point area is visually obstructed, use
a suitable mirror to gain visual access. A mirror can
also be used to deflect light to a limited-access area
to assist in locating a leak point.
BRIGHT LIGHT LEAK TEST METHOD
Some water leaks in the luggage compartment can
be detected without water testing. Position the vehi-
cle in a brightly lit area. From inside the darkened
luggage compartment inspect around seals and body
seams. If necessary, have a helper direct a drop lightover the suspected leak areas around the luggage
compartment. If light is visible through a normally
sealed location, water could enter through the open-
ing.
PRESSURIZED LEAK TEST METHOD
When a water leak into the passenger compart-
ment cannot be detected by water testing, pressurize
the passenger compartment and soap test exterior of
the vehicle. To pressurize the passenger compart-
ment, close all doors and windows, start engine, and
set heater control to high blower in HEAT position. If
engine can not be started, connect a charger to the
battery to ensure adequate voltage to the blower.
With interior pressurized, apply dish detergent solu-
tion to suspected leak area on the exterior of the
vehicle. Apply detergent solution with spray device or
soft bristle brush. If soap bubbles occur at a body
seam, joint, seal or gasket, the leak entry point could
be at that location.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - WIND NOISE
Wind noise is the result of most air leaks. Air leaks
can be caused by poor sealing, improper body compo-
nent alignment, body seam porosity, or missing plugs
in the engine compartment or door hinge pillar areas.
All body sealing points should be airtight in normal
driving conditions. Moving sealing surfaces will not
always seal airtight under all conditions. At times,
side glass or door seals will allow wind noise to be
noticed in the passenger compartment during high
cross winds. Over compensating on door or glass
adjustments to stop wind noise that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After a repair pro-
cedure has been performed, test vehicle to verify
noise has stopped before returning vehicle to use.
Wind noise can also be caused by improperly fitted
exterior moldings or body ornamentation. Loose
moldings can flutter, creating a buzzing or chattering
noise. An open cavity or protruding edge can create a
whistling or howling noise. Inspect the exterior of the
vehicle to verify that these conditions do not exist.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place and
body components are aligned and sealed. If compo-
nent alignment or sealing is necessary, refer to the
appropriate section of this group for proper proce-
dures.
ROAD TESTING WIND NOISE
(1) Drive the vehicle to verify the general location
of the wind noise.
(2) Apply 50 mm (2 in.) masking tape in 150 mm
(6 in.) lengths along weatherstrips, weld seams or
RSBODY23-3
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moldings. After each length is applied, drive the vehi-
cle. If noise goes away after a piece of tape is applied,
remove tape, locate, and repair defect.
POSSIBLE CAUSE OF WIND NOISE
²Moldings standing away from body surface can
catch wind and whistle.
²Gaps in sealed areas behind overhanging body
flanges can cause wind-rushing sounds.
²Misaligned movable components.
²Missing or improperly installed plugs in pillars.
²Weld burn through holes.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PLASTIC BODY
PANEL REPAIR
Resin Transfer Molded (RTM) body panels are rein-
forced with a continuous fiberglass mesh. Epoxy
resin is injected into a gel-coated and fiberglass lined
mold to form a body panel. Sheet molded compound
(SMC) body panels are constructed with fiberglass
strands usually 1 inch or shorter, epoxy resin formed
into sheet stock and pressed in mold flowing material
to form a sheet molded compound (SMC) body panel.
RTM and SMC body panels can be repaired with
epoxy adhesive after market products. Refer to
instructions provided by the manufacturer of prod-
ucts being used to repair RTM or SMC.
DaimlerChrysler Corporation recommends that a
trained automotive body technician perform body
panel repair procedures (Fig. 1).
SAFETY PRECAUTION AND WARNINGS
WARNING: EYE PROTECTION SHOULD BE USED
WHEN SERVICING RTM AND SMC COMPONENTS.
PERSONAL INJURE CAN RESULT.USE AN OSHA
APPROVED BREATHING DEVICE WHEN MIXING
EPOXY, GRINDING RTM AND SMC, AND SPRAYING
PAINT OR SOLVENTS IN A CONFINED AREA. PER-
SONAL INJURY CAN RESULT.AVOID PROLONGEDSKIN CONTACT WITH EPOXY RESIN, PETROLEUM,
OR ALCOHOL BASED SOLVENTS. PERSONAL
INJURY CAN RESULT.DO NOT VENTURE UNDER A
HOISTED VEHICLE THAT IS NOT PROPERLY SUP-
PORTED ON SAFETY STANDS. PERSONAL INJURY
CAN RESULT.
²When holes must be drilled or cut in body pan-
els, verify locations of internal body components and
electrical wiring. Damage to vehicle can result.
²Do not use abrasive chemicals or compounds on
undamaged painted surfaces around repair areas.
Damage to finish can result.
If it is required to section a large panel for an SMC
or RTM repair, it will be necessary to reinforce the
panel with epoxy structural adhesive (rigid repair
adhesive) (Fig. 2). To bond two plastic panels
together, a reinforcement must overlap both panels.
The panels must be ªV'dº at a 20 degree angle. The
area to be reinforced should be washed, then sanded.
Be sure to wipe off any excess soap and water when
finished. Lightly sand or abrade the plastic with an
abrasive pad or sandpaper. Blow off any dust with
compressed air or wipe with a clean dry rag.
When bonding SMC or RTM panels, use a two-part
epoxy adhesive. Properly mix parts A and B, and
apply it to the panels being repaired. Be sure that
enough adhesive has been applied to allow squeeze
out and to fill the full bond line. Once the pieces
have been brought together, do not move them until
the adhesive is cured. The assembly can be held
together with clamps, rivets, etc. A faster cure can be
obtained by heating with a heat lamp or heat gun.
After the parts have been bonded and have had
time to cure, rough sand the seam and apply the
final adhesive filler to the area being repaired.
Fig. 1 Panel Repair
Fig. 2 Panel Sectioning
1 - EXISTING PANEL
2 - NEW PANEL
3 - PANEL ADHESIVE
4 - BONDING STRIP
23 - 4 BODYRS
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Smooth the filler with a spatula, wooden tongue
depressor, or squeegee. For fine texturing, a small
amount of water can be applied to the filler surface
while smoothing. The cured filler can be sanded as
necessary and, as a final step, cleanup can be done
withy soapy water. Wipe the surface clean with a dry
cloth allowing time for the panel to dry before mov-
ing on with the repair.
PANEL REINFORCEMENT
Structural repair procedures for rigid panels such
as Sheet Molded compound (SMC) or Resin Transfer
Molded (RTM) with large cracks and holes will
require a reinforcement backing. Reinforcements can
be made with several applications of glass cloth sat-
urated with epoxy structural adhesive, semirigid or
flexible repair materials should be used for semirigid
or flexible part repairs (Fig. 3) and (Fig. 4). Open
meshed fiberglass dry wall tape can be used to form
a reinforcement. The dry wall tape allows the resin
to penetrate through and make a good bond between
the panel and the epoxy adhesive. Structurally, the
more dry wall tape used, the stronger the repair.
Another kind of repair that can be done to repair
large cracks and holes is to use a scrap piece of sim-
ilar plastic and bond with structural adhesive. The
reinforcement should cover the entire break and
should have a generous amount of overlap on either
side of the cracked or broken area.
When repairing plastic, the damaged area is first
ªV'dº out, or beveled. Large bonding areas are desir-
able when repairing plastic because small repairs are
less likely to hold permanently. Beveling the area
around a crack at a 20 degree angle will increase the
bonding surface for a repair (Fig. 5). It is recom-
mended that sharp edges be avoided because the
joint may show through after the panel is refinished.²Panel repair for both flexible and rigid panels
are basically the same. The primary difference
between flexible panel repair and rigid panel repair
is in the adhesive materials used (Fig. 6).
²The technician should first decide what needs to
be done when working on any type of body panel.
One should determine if it is possible to return the
damage part to its original strength and appearance
without exceeding the value of the replacement part.
²When plastic repairs are required, it is recom-
mended that the part be left on the vehicle when
every possible. That will save time, and the panel
will remain stationary during the repair. Misalign-
ment can cause stress in the repair areas and can
result in future failure.
Fig. 3 Softened Edges
1 - SOFTENED EDGES
2 - PANEL ADHESIVE
3 - BONDING STRIP
Fig. 4 Panel Reinforcement
1 - PANEL ADHESIVE
2 - REINFORCEMENT
Fig. 5 Beveling Angle
Fig. 6 Fiberglass Tape
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VISUAL INSPECTION
Sheet Molded Compound (SMC) and Resin Trans-
fer Molded (RTM), because they are composites, react
differently to impact that sheet metal does. Compos-
ite materials can mask the severity of an accident.
Adhesive bond lines, interior structure of the doors,
and steel structure need to be inspected carefully to
get a true damage assessment. Close inspection may
require partial removal of interior trim or inner pan-
els.
Identify the type of repair:
Puncture or Crack ± Damage that has penetrated
completely through the panel. Damage is confined to
one general area; a panel section is not required.
However, a backer panel, open fiberglass tape, or
matted material must be bonded from behind (Fig.
7).
PANEL SURFACE PREPARATION
If a body panel has been punctured, cracked, or
crushed, the damaged area must be removed from
the panel to achieve a successful repair. All spider
web cracks leading away from a damaged area must
be stopped or removed. To stop a running crack in a
SMC or RTM panel, drilla6mm(0.250 in.) hole at
the end of the crack farthest away from the damage.
If spider web cracks can not be stopped, the panel
would require replacement. The surfaces around the
damaged area should be stripped of paint and freed
from was and oil. Scuff surfaces around repair area
with 360 grit wet/dry sand paper, or equivalent, to
assure adhesion of epoxy repair materials.
PATCHING PANELS
An RTM or SMC panel that has extensive punc-
ture type damage can be repaired by cutting out the
damaged material (Fig. 8). Use a suitable reciprocat-
ing saw or cut off wheel to remove the section of the
SMC or RTM panel that is damaged. The piece cut
out can be used as a template to shape the new
patch. It is not necessary to have access to the back
of the panel to install a patch. Bevel edges of cutout
at 20 degrees to expose a larger bonding area on the
outer side. This will allow for an increased reinforce-
ment areas.
PANEL PATCH FABRICATIONS
A patch can be fabricated from any rigid fiberglass
panel that has comparable contour with the repair
area. discard SMC or RTM panels. Lift gates and
fenders can be used to supply patch material. If
existing material is not available or compatible, a
patch can be constructed with epoxy and reinforce-
ment mesh (dry wall tape). Perform the following
operation if required:
(1) Cover waxed paper or plastic with adhesive
backed nylon mesh (dry wall tape) larger than the
patch required (Fig. 9).
(2) Tape waxed paper or plastic sheet with mesh to
a surface that has a compatible contour to the repair
area.
(3) Apply a liberal coat of epoxy adhesive over the
reinforcement mesh (Fig. 9). If necessary apply a sec-
ond or third coat of epoxy and mesh after firs coat
has cured. The thickness of the patch should be the
same as the repair area.
(4) After patch has cured, peel waxed paper or
plastic from the back of the patch.
Fig. 7 Damage Component
1 - PUNCTURE
Fig. 8 DAMAGED PANEL CUTOUT AND PATCH
1 - CUTOUT
2 - DAMAGED BODY PANEL
3 - 4MM (0.160 IN.) HOLES
4 - PATCH CUT TO SIZE
23 - 6 BODYRS
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(5) If desired, a thin film coat of poesy can be
applied to the back of the patch to cover mesh for
added strength.
PANEL PATCH INSTALLATION
(1) Make a paper or cardboard pattern the size
and shape of the cutout hole in the panel.
(2) Trim 3 mm (0.125 in.) from edges of pattern so
patch will have a gap between connecting surfaces.
(3) Using the pattern as a guide, cut the patch to
size.
(4) Cut scrap pieces of patch material into 50 mm
(2 in.) squares to use as patch supports to sustain
the patch in the cutout.
(5) Drill 4 mm (0.160 in.) holes 13 mm (0.5 in.) in
from edge of cutout hole (Fig. 8).
(6) Drill 3 mm (0.125 in.) holes in the support
squares 13 mm (0.5 in.) from the edge in the center
of one side.
(7) Scuff the backside of the body panel around the
cutout hole with a scuff pad or sandpaper.
(8) Mix enough epoxy to cover one side of all sup-
port squares.
(9) Apply epoxy to the support squares on the half
with the hole pre-drilled in it.
(10) Using number 8 sheet metal screws, secure
support squares to back side of body panel with
epoxy sandwiched between the panel and squares
(Fig. 10).
(11) Position patch in cutout against support
squares and adjust patch until the gap is equal along
all sides (Fig. 11).
(12) Drill 3 mm (0.125 in.) holes in the support
squares through the pre-drilled holes in the patch.
Fig. 9 FABRICATED PANEL
1 - STRUCTURAL ADHESIVE OR EPOXY RESIN
2 - FIBERGLASS CLOTH OR FIBERGLASS MESH TAPE
3 - WIDTH OF V-GROOVE
4 - WAXED PAPER
Fig. 10 Secure Support Squares To Body Panel
1 - SUPPORT SQUARES
2 - SCREWS
3 - DAMAGED BODY PANEL
Fig. 11 Position Patch In Cutout And Align
1 - CUTOUT
2 - SUPPORT SQUARES
Fig. 12 Apply Epoxy To Support Squares
1 - APPLICATOR
2 - SUPPORT SQUARES
3 - EPOXY
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