DODGE TRUCK 1993 Service Repair Manual

A
-
SEAT
WIDTH
-
INTAKE
1.016
-
1.524
mm
(0.040
-
0.060
in.)

EXHAUST
1.524
-
2.032
mm
(0.060
-
0.080
in.)

B
-
FACE
ANGLE
(INTAKE
& EXHAUST)
4374°
-
433A°

C
-
SEAT
ANGLE
(INTAKE
& EXHAUST)
4474°
-
44%°
D
-
CONTACT SURFACE

J9309-95
Fig.
13
Valve
Face and
Seat
Angles
i
INTAKE
VALVE
\
MARGIN
/ "

>FACE'
•STEM"
VALVE SPRING
RETAINER LOCK GROOVE EXHAUST
VALVE
J9209-127

Fig.
14 Intake and
Exhaust
Valves
(3) Inspect
the
valve seat with Prussian blue
to de­

termine where
the
valve contacts
the
seat.
To do

this,
coat valve seat LIGHTLY with Prussian blue
then
set
valve
in
place. Rotate
the
valve with light
pressure.
If the
blue
is
transferred
to the
center
of

valve face, contact
is
satisfactory.
If
the blue
is
trans­
ferred
to the top
edge
of
valve face, lower valve seat
with
a 15°
stone.
If
the blue
is
transferred
to
bottom edge
of
valve face raise valve seat with
a 60°
stone.

(4)
When seat
is
properly positioned
the
width
of

intake seats should
be 1.016-1.524 mm (0.040-0.060

inch).
The
width
of the
exhaust seats should
be 1.524-2.032 mm (0.060-0.080
inch).
Fig.
15 Refacing
Valve
Seats

VALVE
SPRING
INSPECTION
Whenever valves have been removed
for
inspection,
reconditioning
or
replacement, valve springs should
be tested.
As an
example
the
compression length
of

the spring
to be
tested
is 1-5/16
inch. Turn table
of

Valve Spring Tester Tool
C-647
until surface
is in
line with
the 1-5/16
inch mark
on the
threaded stud.
Be sure
the
zero mark
is to the
front (Fig.
16).
Place spring over stud
on the
table
and
lift compressing
le­

ver
to set
tone device. Pull
on
torque wrench until
ping
is
heard. Take reading
on
torque wrench
at
this instant. Multiply this reading
by 2.
This will give
the spring load
at
test length. Fractional measure­ ments
are
indicated
on the
table
for
finer adjust­ments. Refer
to
specifications
to
obtain specified
height
and
allowable tensions. Discard
the
springs
that
do not
meet specifications.
SPECIAL

TOOL
C-647

9209-37
Fig.
16 Testing
Valve
Spring
for
Compressed

Length
with
Tool
C-647

INSTALLATION
(1)
Coat valve stems with lubrication
oil and
insert
them
in
cylinder head.

•
3.9L
ENGINE
9 - 27 (2) If valves or seats are reground, check valve
stem height. If valve is too long, replace cylinder
head.
(3) Install new seals on all valve guides. Install
valve springs and valve retainers.
(4) Compress valve springs with Valve Spring
Compressor Tool MD-998772A, install locks and re­
lease tool. If valves and/or seats are ground, measure
the installed height of springs. Make sure the mea­ surement is taken from bottom of spring seat in cyl­
inder head to the bottom surface of spring retainer. If
spacers are installed, measure from the top of spacer.
If height is greater than 42.86 mm (1-11/16 inches), install a 1.587 mm (1/16 inch) spacer in head coun-
terbore. This should bring spring height back to nor­
mal 41.27 to 42.86 mm (1-5/8 to
1-11/16
inch).

VALVE STEM SEAL
/
SPRING REPLACEMENT
This procedure is done with the cylinder head in­
stalled. (1) Set engine basic timing to TDC and remove air
cleaner. (2) Remove cylinder head covers and spark plugs.
(3) Remove coil wire from distributor and secure to
good ground to prevent engine from starting. (4) Using suitable socket and flex handle at crank­
shaft retaining bolt, turn engine so the No.l piston is
at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke. (5) Remove rocker arms.
(6) With air hose attached to an adapter installed
in No.l spark plug hole, apply 620-689 kPa (90-100
psi) air pressure. (7) Using Valve Spring Compressor Tool
MD-998772A, compress valve spring and remove re­
tainer valve locks and valve spring. (8) Install seals on the exhaust valve stem and po­
sition down against valve guides. (9) The intake valve stem seals should be pushed
firmly and squarely over the valve guide using the valve stem as a guide. DO NOT force seal against
top of guide. When installing the valve retainer
locks,
compress the spring only enough to install the
locks.
(10) Follow the same procedure on the remaining 5
cylinders using the firing sequence
1-6-5-4-3-2.
Make sure piston in cylinder is at TDC on the valve spring
that is being removed. (11) Remove adapter from the No.l spark plug

hole.
(12) Install rocker arms.
(13) Install covers and coil wire to distributor.
(14) Install air cleaner.
(15) Road test vehicle.

HYDRAULIC
TAPPETS
Before disassembling any part of the engine to cor­
rect tappet noise, check the oil pressure. If vehicle
has no oil pressure gauge, install a reliable gauge at the pressure sending unit. The pressure should be be­
tween 207-552 kPa (30-80 psi) at 3,000 RPM.
Check the oil level after the engine reaches normal
operating temperature. Allow 5 minutes to stabilize
oil level, check dipstick.
The oil level in the pan should never be above the
FULL mark or below the ADD OIL mark on dipstick.
Either of these 2 conditions could be responsible for
noisy tappets.

OIL
LEWEL

HIGH
If oil level is above the FULL mark, it is possible
for the connecting rods to dip into the oil. With the engine running, this condition could create foam in
the oil pan. Foam in oil pan would be fed to the hy­ draulic tappets by the oil pump causing them to lose
length and allow valves to seat noisily.

LOW
Low oil level may allow oil pump to take in air.
When air is fed to the tappets, they lose length
which allows valves to seat noisily. Any leaks on in­
take side of oil pump through which air can be drawn will create the same tappet action. Check the
lubrication system from the intake strainer to the
pump cover, including the relief valve retainer cap.
When tappet noise is due to aeration, it may be in­
termittent or constant, and usually more than 1 tap­
pet will be noisy. When oil level and leaks have been corrected, operate the engine at fast idle. Run engine
for a sufficient time to allow all of the air inside the
tappets to be bled out.

TAPPET
NOISE DIAGNOSIS
(1) To determine source of tappet noise, operate en­
gine at idle with cylinder head covers removed. (2) Feel each valve spring or rocker arm to detect
noisy tappet. The noisy tappet will cause the affected
spring and/or rocker arm to vibrate or feel rough in
operation.
Worn valve guides or cocked springs are some­
times mistaken for noisy tappets. If such is the
case, noise may be dampened by applying side
thrust on the valve spring. If noise is not appre­ ciably reduced, it can be assumed the noise is in
the tappet. Inspect the rocker arm push rod sockets and push rod ends for wear.
(3) Valve tappet noise ranges from light noise to a
heavy click. A light noise is usually caused by exces­ sive leak down around the unit plunger or by the
plunger partially sticking in the tappet body cylin­ der. The tappet should be replaced. A heavy click is
caused by a tappet check valve not seating or by for­
eign particles becoming wedged between the plunger
and the tappet body. This will cause the plunger to
stick in the down position. This heavy click will be

9
- 28 3.9L
ENGINE
•
accompanied by excessive clearance between the
valve stem and rocker arm as valve closes. In either
case,
tappet assembly should be removed for inspec­
tion and cleaning.
The valve train generates a noise very much like a
light tappet noise during normal operation. Care
must be taken to ensure that tappets are making the
noise. In general, if more than one tappet seems to
be noisy, its probably not the tappets.

REMOVAL
(1) Remove the air cleaner.
(2) Remove cylinder head cover.
(3) Remove rocker assembly and push rods. Iden­
tify push rods to ensure installation in original loca­
tion.
(4) Remove intake manifold.
(5) Remove yoke retainer and aligning yokes.
(6) Slide Hydraulic Tappet Remover/Installer Tool

C-4129-A
through opening in cylinder head and seat
tool firmly in the head of tappet.
(7) Pull tappet out of bore with a twisting motion.
If all tappets are to be removed, identify tappets to
ensure installation in original location. (8) If the tappet or bore in cylinder block is scored,
scuffed, or shows signs of sticking, ream the bore to
next oversize. Replace with oversize tappet.

CAUTION:
The
plunger
and
tappet bodies
are not

interchangeable.
The
plunger
and
valve must
al­

ways
be fitted to the
original body.
It is
advisable
to

work
on one
tappet
at a
time
to
avoid mixing
of
parts.
Mixed parts
are not
compatible.
DO NOT
dis­

assemble
a
tappet
on a
dirty
work bench.

DISASSEMBLE (1) Pry out plunger retainer spring clip (Fig. 17).
(2) Clean varnish deposits from inside of tappet
body above plunger cap.
(3) Invert tappet body and remove plunger cap,
plunger, check valve, check valve spring, check valve retainer and plunger spring (Fig. 17). Check valve
could be flat or ball.
ASSEMBLE (1) Clean all tappet parts in a solvent that will re­
move all varnish and carbon.
(2) Replace tappets that are unfit for further ser­
vice with new assemblies. (3) If plunger shows signs of scoring or wear, in­
stall a new tappet assembly. If valve is pitted, or
valve seat on end of plunger is prevented from seat­ ing, install a new tappet assembly.
(4) Assemble tappets (Fig. 17).

INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate tappets.
PLUNGER
SPRING CHECK
BALL PLUNGER
RETAINER
SPRING CLIP
ROLLER

TAPPET
BODY RETAINER
I
PLUNGER
CHECK VALVE
SPRING PLUNGER
CAP
J9109-220
Fig.
17 Hydraulic
Tappet
Assembly

(2) Install tappets and push rods in their original
positions. Ensure that the oil feed hole in the side of
the tappet body faces up (away from the crankshaft).
(3) Install aligning yokes with ARROW toward
camshaft.
(4) Install yoke retainer. Tighten the bolts to 23
N*m (200 in. lbs.) torque. Install intake manifold.
(5) Install push rods in original positions. (6) Install rocker arms.
(7) Install cylinder head cover.
(8) Start and operate engine. Warm up to normal
operating temperature.

CAUTION:
To
prevent damage
to
valve mechanism,
engine must
not be run
above fast idle
until
all hy­
draulic tappets have
filled
with
oil and
have become
quiet.

VALVE
TIMING
(1) Turn crankshaft until the No.6 exhaust valve
is closing and No.6 intake valve is opening. (2) Insert a 6.350 mm (1/4 inch) spacer between
rocker arm pad and stem tip of No.l intake valve.
Allow spring load to bleed tappet down giving in ef­ fect a solid tappet. (3) Install a dial indicator so plunger contacts
valve spring retainer as nearly perpendicular as pos­ sible. Zero the indicator. (4) Rotate the crankshaft clockwise (normal run­
ning direction) until the valve has lifted 0.254 mm (0.010 inch). The timing of the crankshaft should
now read from 10° before top dead center to 2° after
top dead center. Remove spacer.

CAUTION:
DO NOT
turn
crankshaft
any
further

clockwise
as
valve spring might bottom
and
result in serious damage.

(5) If reading is not within specified limits: (a) Check sprocket index marks.
(b) Inspect timing chain for wear. (c) Check accuracy of DC mark on timing indica­
tor.

•
3.9L
ENGINE
I - 21
VIBRATION
DAMPER

REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery,
(2) Remove fan shroud retainer bolts and set
shroud back over engine.
(3) Remove the cooling system fan.
(4) Remove the serpentine belt (refer to Group 7,
Cooling System).
(5) Remove the vibration damper pulley.
(6) Remove vibration damper bolt and washer from
end of crankshaft.
(7) Install bar and screw from Puller Tool Set

C-3688.
Install 2 bolts with washers through the
puller tool and into the vibration damper (Fig. 1).
(8) Pull vibration damper off of the crankshaft.
J9209-81

Fig. 1 Vibration
Damper
Assembly INSTALLATION

(1) Position the vibration damper onto the crank­
shaft.
(2) Place installing tool, part of Puller Tool Set
C-3688 in position and press the vibration damper
onto the crankshaft (Fig. 2).
Fig. 2 Installing Vibration Damper
(3) Install the crankshaft bolt and washer. Tighten
the bolt to 183 N*m (135 ft. lbs.) torque.
(4) Install the crankshaft pulley. Tighten the pul­
ley bolts to 23 N*m (200 in. lbs.) torque.
(5) Install the serpentine belt (refer to Group 7,
Cooling System).
(6) Install the cooling system fan. Tighten the
bolts to 23 N*m (17 ft. lbs.) torque. (7) Position the fan shroud and install the bolts.
Tighten the retainer bolts to 11 N*m (95 in. lbs.)
torque.
(3)
Connect the negative cable to the battery.

TIMING CHAIN
COVER
REMOVAL (1)
Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.

(2)
Drain cooling system (refer to Group 7, Cooling
System).

(3)
Remove the serpentine belt (refer to Group 7,
Cooling System).
(4)
Remove water pump (refer to Group 7, Cooling
System).
(5)
Remove power steering pump (refer to Group

19,
Steering).

(6)
Remove vibration damper. (7) Remove fuel lines (refer to Group 14, Fuel Sys­

tem).

(8) Loosen oil pan bolts and remove the front bolt
at each side.
(9)
Remove the cover bolts.

(10)
Remove chain case cover and gasket using ex­
treme caution to avoid damaging oil pan gasket.

(11)
Place a suitable tool behind the lips of the oil
seal to pry the oil seal outward. Be careful not to
damage the crankshaft seal surface of cover (Fig. 3). Fig. 3 Removal of Front Crankshaft Oil Seal
TIMING CHAIN STRETCH
(1) Place a scale next to the timing chain so that
any movement of the chain may be measured.

(2)
Place a torque wrench and socket over cam­
shaft sprocket attaching bolt. Apply torque in the di­
rection of crankshaft rotation to take up slack; 41
N#m (30 ft. lbs.) torque with cylinder head installed or 20 N»m (15 ft. lbs.) torque with cylinder head re­
moved. With a torque applied to the camshaft sprocket bolt, crankshaft should not be permitted to
move. It may be necessary to block the crankshaft to
prevent rotation.

(3)
Hold a scale with dimensional reading even
with the edge of a chain link. With cylinder heads installed, apply 14 N*m (30 ft. lbs.) torque in the re­
verse direction. With the cylinder heads removed, ap-

i - 30
3.9L
ENGINE

J9209-130
Fig.
4
Measuring
Timing
Chain
Wear and Stretch ply 20 N*m (15 ft. lbs.) torque in the reverse direc­
tion. Note the amount of chain movement (Fig. 4).
(4) Install a new timing chain, if its movement ex­
ceeds 3.175 mm (1/8 inch).
(5) If chain is not satisfactory, remove camshaft
sprocket attaching bolt and remove timing chain
with crankshaft and camshaft sprockets. (6) Place both camshaft sprocket and crankshaft
sprocket on the bench with timing marks on exact
imaginary center line through both camshaft and
crankshaft bores.
(7) Place timing chain around both sprockets. (8) Turn crankshaft and camshaft to line up with
keyway location in crankshaft sprocket and in cam­
shaft sprocket.
(9) Lift sprockets and chain (keep sprockets tight
against the chain in position as described). (10) Slide both sprockets evenly over their respec­
tive shafts and use a straightedge to check alignment of timing marks (Fig. 5).
TIMING
MARKS
J9209-129

Fig.
5
Alignment
of Timing Marks
(11) Install the camshaft bolt. Tighten the bolt to
68 Nnn (50 ft. lbs.) torque. (12) Check camshaft end play. The end play should
be 0.051-0.152 mm (0.002-0.006 inch) with a new
thrust plate and up to 0.254 mm (0.010 inch) with a used thrust plate. If not within these limits install a
new thrust plate.
CLEANING

Be sure mating surfaces of chain case cover and
cylinder block are clean and free from burrs.

INSTALLATION
(1) Using a new cover gasket, carefully install
chain case cover to avoid damaging oil pan gasket.
Use a small amount of Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhe­
sive Sealant, or equivalent, at the joint between tim­ ing chain cover gasket and the oil pan gasket. Finger
tighten the timing chain cover bolts at this time.
(2) Place the smaller diameter of the oil seal over
Front Oil Seal Installation Tool 6635 (Fig. 6). Seat
the oil seal in the groove of the tool.
(3) Position the seal and tool onto the crankshaft
(Fig. 7).
CRANKSHAFT
>

FRONT
OIL

SEAL
INSTALL
THIS

END
INTO

SPECIAL
TOOL

6635

J9309-44

Fig.
6
Placing
Oil
Seal
on
Installation
Tool
6635
SPECIAL
TOOL
\\ OIL

SEAL

TIMING'
CHAIN

COVER
J9309-45-

Fig.
7 Position Tool and
Seal
onto Crankshaft

•
3.9L
ENGINE
9 - 31 (4) Using the vibration damper bolt, tighten the
bolt to draw the seal into position on the crankshaft (Fig. 8).

J9309-46

Fig.
8 installing Oil
Seal

(5) Tighten chain case cover bolts to 41 N-m (30 ft.
lbs.) torque. Tighten oil pan bolts to 24 N*m (215 in.
lbs.) torque.
(6) Remove the vibration damper bolt and seal in­
stallation tool.
(7) Install vibration damper. (8) Instajl fuel lines (refer to Group 14, Fuel Sys­

tem).
(9) Install water pump and housing assembly us­
ing new gaskets (refer to Group 7, Cooling System).
Tighten bolts to 41 N-m (30 ft. lbs.) torque. (10) Install power steering pump (refer to Group

19,
Steering). (11) Install the serpentine belt (refer to Group 7,
Cooling System). (12) Install the cooling system fan. Tighten the
bolts to 23 N-m (17 ft. lbs.) torque. (13) Position the fan shroud and install the bolts.
Tighten the bolts to 11 N-m (95 in. lbs.) torque. (14) Fill cooling system (refer to Group 7, Cooling
System for the proper procedure). (15) Connect the negative cable to the battery.

FRONT
CRANKSHAFT
OIL
SEAL REPLACEMENT
The oil seal can be replaced without removing the
timing chain cover provided the cover is not mis­ aligned. (1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Remove vibration damper.
(3) If front seal is suspected of leaking, check front
oil seal alignment to crankshaft. The seal installa­ tion/alignment tool 6635, should fit with minimum
interference. If tool does not fit, the cover must be re­
moved and installed properly.

(4)
Place a suitable tool behind the lips of the oil
seal to pry the oil seal outward. Be careful not to
damage the crankshaft seal surface of cover.
(5) Place the smaller diameter of the oil seal over
Front Oil Seal Installation Tool 6635 (Fig. 6). Seat
the oil seal in the groove of the tool.
(6) Position the seal and tool onto the crankshaft
(Fig. 7). (7) Using the vibration damper bolt, tighten the
bolt to draw the seal into position on the crankshaft (Fig. 8).
(8) Remove the vibration damper bolt and seal in­
stallation tool. (9) Install the vibration damper.
(10) Connect the negative cable to the battery.

CAMSHAFT
This procedure requires that the engine is removed
from the vehicle.. The camshaft has an integral oil pump and distrib­
utor drive gear (Fig. 9).
CHAIN

SPROCKET

Fig.
9 Camshaft and
Sprocket
Assembly
REMOVAL

(1) Remove intake manifold.
(2) Remove cylinder head covers. (3) Remove timing case cover and timing chain.
(4) Remove rocker arms.
(5) Remove push rods and tappets; identify each
part so it can be installed in the original location. (6) Remove distributor and lift out the oil pump
and distributor drive shaft.
(7) Remove camshaft thrust plate; note location of
oil tab (Fig. 10).
(8) Install a long bolt into front of camshaft to fa­
cilitate removal of the camshaft. Remove camshaft,
being careful not to damage cam bearings with the cam lobes.

RE
MO
VAL-BEA RING
(1) With engine completely disassembled, drive out
rear cam bearing core hole plug.
(2) Install proper size adapters and horseshoe
washers (part of Camshaft Bearing Remover/Installer

9
- 32 3.9L
ENGINE

•

Fig,
10 timing
Chain
Oil Tab installation
Fig,
11 Camshaft Bearings Removal and Installation

with
Tool
C-3132-A

Tool C-3132-A) at back of each bearing shell. Drive out bearing shells (Fig. 11).

INSTALLA
TION— BEARING (1) Install new camshaft bearings with Camshaft
Bearing Remover/Installer Tool C-3132-A by sliding
the new camshaft bearing shell over proper adapter.
(2) Position rear bearing in the tool. Install horse­
shoe lock and by reversing removal procedure, care­
fully drive bearing shell into place.
(3) Install remaining bearings in the same man­
ner. Bearings must be carefully aligned to bring oil
holes into full register with oil passages from the main bearing. If the camshaft bearing shell oil holes
are not in exact alignment, remove and install them
correctly. Install a new core hole plug at the rear of
camshaft. Be sure this plug does not leak. INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate camshaft lobes and camshaft bearing
journals and insert the camshaft to within 51 mm (2 inches) of its final position in cylinder block.
Whenever an engine has been rebuilt, a new
camshaft and/or new tappets installed, add 1
pint of Mopar Crankcase Conditioner, or equiv­ alent. The oil mixture should be left in engine
for a minimum of 805 km (500 miles). Drain at
the next normal oil change.
(2) Install Camshaft Gear Installer Tool C-3509
with tongue back of distributor drive gear (Fig. 12).

Fig.
12 Camshaft
Holding
Tool C-3509 (Installed
Position)

(3) Hold tool in position with a distributor lock-
plate bolt. This tool will restrict camshaft from being
pushed in too far and prevent knocking out the welch
plug in rear of cylinder block. Tool should remain
installed until the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets and timing chain have been installed.
(4) Install camshaft thrust plate and chain oil tab.
Make sure tang enters lower right hole in thrust plate. Tighten bolts to 24 N*m (210 in. lbs.) torque.
Top edge of tab should be flat against thrust plate in order to catch oil for chain lubrication.
(5) Place both camshaft sprocket and crankshaft
sprocket on the bench with timing marks on exact
imaginary center line through both camshaft and
crankshaft bores.
(6) Place timing chain around both sprockets.

(7)
Turn crankshaft and camshaft to line up with
keyway location in crankshaft sprocket and in cam­ shaft sprocket.
(8) Lift sprockets and chain (keep sprockets tight
against the chain in position as described).
(9) Slide both sprockets evenly over their respec­
tive shafts and use a straightedge to check alignment of timing marks (Fig. 13).
(10) Install the camshaft bolt/cup washer. Tighten
bolt to 68 N*m (50 ft. lbs.) torque.
(11) Measure camshaft end play. Refer to Specifi­
cations for proper clearance. If not within limits in­ stall a new thrust plate.

•

3.9L
ENGINE
9 - 33
Fig. 13 Alignment of Timing Marks (12) Each tappet reused must be installed in the
same position from which it was removed.
When

camshaft
Is replaced, all of the tappets must be
replaced.

DISTRIBUTOR

REMOVAL
Refer to Group 8D, Ignition Systems for the proper
procedure.

REMOVAL-DRIVE SHAFT BUSHING (1)
Insert Distributor Drive Shaft Bushing Puller
Tool C-3052 into old bushing and thread down until a tight fit is obtained (Fig. 14).

(2)
Hold puller screw and tighten puller nut until
bushing is removed.

Fig.
14 Distributor Driveshaft Bushing Removal

INSTALLATION-DRIVE
SHAFT BUSHING (1) Slide new bushing over burnishing end of Dis­
tributor Drive Shaft Bushing Driver/Burnisher Tool
C-3053.
Insert the tool and bushing into the bore. (2) Drive bushing and tool into position, using a
hammer (Fig. 15).
(3) As the burnisher is pulled through the bushing,
the bushing is expanded tight in the block and bur­ nished to correct size (Fig. 16). DO NOT ream this
bushing.

DISTRIBUTOR
TIMING
Before installing the distributor and oil pump drive
shaft, time engine as follows:
Fig.
16
Burnishing
Distributor Driveshaft
Bushing

(1) Rotate crankshaft until No.l cylinder is at top
dead center on the firing stroke. (2) When in this position, the timing mark on vi­
bration damper should be under "0" on the timing in­ dicator.
(3) Coat shaft and drive gear with engine oil. In­
stall the shaft so that after the gear spirals into
place, it will index with the oil pump shaft. The slot on top of drive gear should be aligned towards left
front intake manifold attaching bolt hole (Fig. 17).

INSTALLATION
Refer to Group 8D, Ignition Systems for the proper
procedure.
Fig.
17 Position of Installed Distributor Drive Gear

OIL PAN
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Remove engine oil dipstick.
(3) Raise vehicle.
(4) Drain engine oil.
(5)
Remove exhaust pipe.
(6) Remove left engine to transmission strut.
(7) Remove oil pan and one-piece gasket.
CLEANING Clean the block and pan gasket surfaces.
Trim or remove excess sealant film in the rear
main cap oil pan gasket groove. DO NOT remove
the sealant inside the rear main cap slots.
If present, trim excess sealant from inside the en­

gine.
Clean oil pan in solvent and wipe dry with a clean
cloth.
Clean oil screen and pipe thoroughly in clean sol­
vent. Inspect condition of screen.
INSPECTION Inspect oil drain plug and plug hole for stripped or
damaged threads. Repair as necessary. Inspect oil pan mounting flange for bends or distor­
tion. Straighten flange, if necessary.
INSTALLATION (1) Fabricate 4 alignment dowels from 1 1/2 x 5/16
inch bolts. Cut the head off the bolts and cut a slot
into the top of the dowel. This will allow easier in­ stallation and removal with a screwdriver (Fig. 1).

11/2"
x 5/16" BOLT
,
DOWEL
SLOT
J9209-106
Fig. 1 Fabrication of Alignment Dowels
(2) Install the dowels in the cylinder block (Fig. 2).
(3) Apply small amount of Mopar Silicone Rubber
Adhesive Sealant, or equivalent in the corner of the cap and the cylinder block.
(4) Slide the one-piece gasket over the dowels and
onto the block. (5) Position the oil pan over the dowels and onto
the gasket. (6) Install the oil pan bolts. Tighten the bolts to 23
N-m (200 in. lbs.) torque. Fig. 2 Position of Dowels in Cylinder
Block

(7) Remove the dowels. Install the remaining oil
pan bolts. Tighten these bolts to 23 N-m (200 in. lbs.) torque.
(8) Install the drain plug. Tighten drain plug to 34
N-m (27 ft. lbs.) torque.
(9) Install the engine to transmission strut.
(10) Install exhaust pipe.
(11) Lower vehicle.
(12) Install dipstick.
(13) Connect the negative cable to the battery. (14) Fill crankcase with oil to proper level.

OIL
PU1P
REMOVAL (1) Remove the oil pan. (2) Remove the oil pump from rear main bearing

cap.

DISASSEMBLE (1) Remove the relief valve as follows: (a) Remove cotter pin. Drill a 3.175 mm (1/8
inch) hole into the relief valve retainer cap and in­
sert a self-threading sheet metal screw into cap. (b) Clamp screw into a vise and while supporting
oil pump, remove cap by tapping pump body using a soft hammer. Discard retainer cap and remove
spring and relief valve (Fig. 3).
(2) Remove oil pump cover (Fig. 4).
(3) Remove pump outer rotor and inner rotor with
shaft (Fig. 4). (4) Wash all parts in a suitable solvent and inspect
carefully for damage or wear.

OIL PUMP
ASSEMBLY

SPRING
RELIEF VALVE
• RETAINER
CAP
COTTER
PIN

RH174

Fig.
3 Oil
Pressure
Relief
Valve

INNER ROTOR AND SHAFT DISTRIBUTOR DRIVESHAFT

mm
(REFERENCE)
COTTER
PIN

RELIEF VALVE

LARGE
CHAMFERED
EDGE
SPRING
RETAINER

CAP
RY10B
Fig.
4 Oil
Pump
INSPECTION
Mating surface of the oil pump cover should be
smooth. Replace pump assembly if cover is scratched
or grooved.
Lay a straightedge across the pump cover surface
(Fig. 5). If a 0.038 mm (0.0015 inch) feeler gauge can
be inserted between cover and straightedge, pump assembly should be replaced.
STRAIGHT EDGE>

COVER

RH175

Fig.
5
Checking
Oil
Pump
Cover
Flatness Measure thickness and diameter of outer rotor. If
outer rotor thickness measures 20.9 mm (0.825 inch) or less or if the diameter is 62.7 mm (2.469 inches) or

less,
replace outer rotor (Fig. 6).
RH176

Fig.
6
Measuring
Outer Rotor
Thickness

If inner rotor measures 20.9 mm (0.825 inch) or

less,
replace inner rotor and shaft assembly (Fig. 7).
RH177
. Fig. 7
Measuring
Inner
Rotor
Thickness

Slide outer rotor into pump body. Press rotor to the
side with your fingers and measure clearance be­
tween rotor and pump body (Fig. 8). If clearance is 0.356 mm (0.014 inch) or more, replace oil pump as­
sembly.
FEELER
GUAGE
OUTER ROTOR
RH178

PUMP BODY
Fig.
8
Measuring
Outer Rotor Clearance in
Housing