change wheel FIAT UNO 1983 Service Repair Manual

Safety First!0•5
Working on your car can be dangerous.
This page shows just some of the potential
risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a
safety-conscious attitude.
General hazards
Scalding
• Don’t remove the radiator or expansion
tank cap while the engine is hot.
• Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or
power steering fluid may also be dangerously
hot if the engine has recently been running.
Burning
• Beware of burns from the exhaust system
and from any part of the engine. Brake discs
and drums can also be extremely hot
immediately after use.
Crushing
• When working under or near
a raised vehicle,
always
supplement the
jack with axle
stands, or use
drive-on
ramps.
Never
venture
under a car which
is only supported by a jack.
• Take care if loosening or tightening high-
torque nuts when the vehicle is on stands.
Initial loosening and final tightening should
be done with the wheels on the ground.
Fire
• Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is
explosive.
• Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine.
• Do not smoke or allow naked lights
(including pilot lights) anywhere near a
vehicle being worked on. Also beware of
creating sparks
(electrically or by use of tools).
• Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t
work on the fuel system with the vehicle over
an inspection pit.
• Another cause of fire is an electrical
overload or short-circuit. Take care when
repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring.
• Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type
suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.
Electric shock
• Ignition HT
voltage can be
dangerous,
especially to
people with heart
problems or a
pacemaker. Don’t
work on or near the
ignition system with
the engine running or
the ignition switched on.• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make
sure that any mains-operated equipment is
correctly earthed. Mains power points should
be protected by a residual current device
(RCD) circuit breaker.
Fume or gas intoxication
• Exhaust fumes are
poisonous; they often
contain carbon
monoxide, which is
rapidly fatal if inhaled.
Never run the
engine in a
confined space
such as a garage
with the doors shut.
• Fuel vapour is also
poisonous, as are the vapours from some
cleaning solvents and paint thinners.
Poisonous or irritant substances
• Avoid skin contact with battery acid and
with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially
antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel
fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a
substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes,
seek medical advice.
• Prolonged contact with used engine oil can
cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a
barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oil-
soaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in
your pocket.
• Air conditioning refrigerant forms a
poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame
(including a cigarette). It can also cause skin
burns on contact.
Asbestos
• Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled
or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in
gaskets and in brake and clutch linings.
When dealing with such components it is
safest to assume that they contain asbestos.
Special hazards
Hydrofluoric acid
• This extremely corrosive acid is formed
when certain types of synthetic rubber, found
in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are
exposed to temperatures above 400
0C. The
rubber changes into a charred or sticky
substance containing the acid. Once formed,
the acid remains dangerous for years. If it
gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to
amputate the limb concerned.
• When dealing with a vehicle which has
suffered a fire, or with components salvaged
from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves
and discard them after use.
The battery
• Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which
attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care
when topping-up or carrying the battery.
• The hydrogen gas given off by the battery
is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or
allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when
connecting and disconnecting battery
chargers or jump leads.
Air bags
• Air bags can cause injury if they go off
accidentally. Take care when removing the
steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage
instructions may apply.
Diesel injection equipment
• Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very
high pressure. Take care when working on
the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.
Warning: Never expose the hands,
face or any other part of the body
to injector spray; the fuel can
penetrate the skin with potentially fatal
results.
Remember...
DO
• Do use eye protection when using power
tools, and when working under the vehicle.
• Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to
protect your hands when necessary.
• Do get someone to check periodically
that all is well when working alone on the
vehicle.
• Do keep loose clothing and long hair well
out of the way of moving mechanical parts.
• Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before
working on the vehicle – especially the
electrical system.
• Do ensure that any lifting or jacking
equipment has a safe working load rating
adequate for the job.
A few tips
DON’T
• Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component
which may be beyond your capability – get
assistance.
• Don’t rush to finish a job, or take
unverified short cuts.
• Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip
and cause injury.
• Don’t leave tools or parts lying around
where someone can trip over them. Mop
up oil and fuel spills at once.
• Don’t allow children or pets to play in or
near a vehicle being worked on.

0•6General dimensions, weights and capacities
Dimensions
Overall length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3644 mm (143.6 in)
Overall width . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1555 mm (61.3 in)
Height . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1432 mm (56.4 in)
Wheelbase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2362 mm (93.1 in)
Front track . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1340 mm (52.8 in)
Rear track . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1300 mm (51.2 in)
Weights (kerb)
Uno 45:
Three-door . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 700 kg (1543 lb)
Five-door . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 710 kg (1566 lb)
Uno 55:
Three-door . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 730 kg (1610 lb)
Five-door . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 740 kg (1632 lb)
Uno 70:
Three-door . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 740 kg (1632 lb)
Five-door . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 750 kg (1654 lb)
Uno SX:
Three-door . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 770 kg (1698 lb)
Five-door . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 780 kg (1720 lb)
Capacities
Fuel tank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.0 litre (9.25 gal)
Engine oil (with filter change):
903 cc engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.42 litre (6.0 pint)
1116 and 1301 cc engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.10 Iitre (7.2 pint)
Transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.40 litre (4.2 pint)
Steering box . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140.0 cc
Driveshaft CV joints . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125.0 cc
Cooling system:
903 cc engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.6 litre (8.1 pint)
1116 cc engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.0 litre (10.6 pint)
1301 cc engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.2 litre (10.9 pint)
For information applicable to later models, see Supplement at end of manual

0•8Roadside Repairs
To avoid repetition, the procedure for
raising the vehicle, in order to carry out work
under it, is not included before each relevant
operation described in this Manual.
It is to be preferred, and it is certainly
recommended, that the vehicle is positioned
over an inspection pit or raised on a lift. Where
these facilities are not available, use ramps or
jack up the vehicle strictly in accordance with
the following guide. Once the vehicle is raised,
supplement the jack with axle stands.
Jacking
The jack supplied with the car should only
be used to change a wheel. Do not use this
jack when overhaul or repair work is being
carried out; employ a hydraulic or screw jack
and supplement it with axle stands.
Jacking points are located under the sills
for use with the jack supplied.To raise the front end with a garage jack,
locate the jack under the transmission lower
mounting, just below and slightly to the rear of
the transmission oil drain plug. Protect the
mounting by placing a block of wood between
the jack head and the mounting.
To raise the rear of the car, the jack should
be placed under the spare wheel housing as
far to the rear as possible. Place a wooden
bearer between the jack head and the
housing.
Towing
When being towed, use the left-hand front
towing eye.
When towing another vehicle, use the rear
towing eye adjacent to the exhaust tailpipe.
When being towed, remember that the
brake pedal will require heavier pressure due
to lack of servo assistance. Always turn theignition key to MAR to retain the steering in
the unlocked position.
Wheel changing
With the car on firm level ground, apply the
handbrake fully. Remove the hub cap or
wheel trim, if fitted.
Release, but do not remove, the bolts.
Chock the front and rear of the opposite
roadwheel and then raise the car using the sill
jack supplied with the car if it is being done at
the roadside. Alternatively use a workshop
jack supplemented with axle stands.
Remove the wheel bolts, change the wheel
and screw in the bolts finger tight. It is
recommended that the bolt threads are
smeared with multi-purpose grease. Lower
the car, remove the jack and tighten the wheel
bolts to the specified torque. Refit any wheel
trim that was removed.
Spare wheel and jack stowage
Front tow hook Rear tow hook
Jacking, towing and wheel changing

Roadside Repairs0•9
Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or
obvious wetness under the bonnet or
underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs
investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to
decide where the leak is coming from,
especially if the engine bay is very dirty
already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown
rearwards by the passage of air under the car,
giving a false impression of where the
problem lies.Warning: Most automotive oils
and fluids are poisonous. Wash
them off skin, and change out of
contaminated clothing, without
delay.
Identifying leaks
The smell of a fluid leaking
from the car may provide a
clue to what’s leaking. Some
fluids are distinctively
coloured. It may help to clean the car and
to park it over some clean paper as an
aid to locating the source of the leak.
Remember that some leaks may only
occur while the engine is running.
Sump oil Gearbox oil
Brake fluid
Power steering fluid
Oil from filter
Antifreeze
Engine oil may leak from the drain plug......or from the base of the oil filter.
Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline
deposit like this.Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the
inboard ends of the driveshafts.
A leak occurring at a wheel is almost
certainly brake fluid.Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe
connectors on the steering rack.

Cylinder head and valves
Material (cylinder head) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Light alloy
Maximum distortion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.05 mm (0.002 in)
Valve guide bore in head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12.950 to 12.977 mm (0.5099 to 0.5109 in)
Valve guide outside diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13.010 to 13.030 mm (0.5122 to 0.5130 in)
Valve guide oversizes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.5, 0.10, 0.25 mm (0.002, 0.004, 0.010 in)
Inside diameter of valve guide (reamed) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.022 to 7.040 mm (0.2765 to 0.2772 in)
Guide fit in head (interference) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.033 to 0.080 mm (0.0013 to 0.0032 in)
Valve stem diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.982 to 7.000 mm (0.2748 to 0.2756 in)
Maximum clearance (valve stem to guide) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.022 to 0.058 mm (0.0009 to 0.0023 in)
Valve seat angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44º 55’ to 45º 05’
Valve face angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45º 25’ to 45º 35’
Valve head diameter:
Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29.0 mm (1.1417 in)
Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26.0 mm (1.0236 in)
Contact band (valve to seat) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.3 to 1.5 mm (0.0512 to 0.0591 in)
Valve clearance:
Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.15 mm (0.006 in)
Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 mm (0.008 in)
For timing check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.60 mm (0.024 in)
Valve timing:
Inlet valve:
Opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7º BTDC
Closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36º ABDC
Exhaust valve:
Opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38º BBDC
Closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5º ATDC
Lubrication system
Oil pump type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gear, driven by shaft from camshaft
Tooth tip to body clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.05 to 0.14 mm (0.0020 to 0.0055 in)
Gear endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.020 to 0.105 mm (0.0008 to 0.0041 in)
Oil pressure at normal operating temperature and average road/
engine speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.94 to 3.92 bar (42 to 57 lbf/ in
2)
Oil capacity (with filter change) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.42 litre (6.0 pint)
Oil type/specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 15W/40
Oil filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C101
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Cylinder head bolts:
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 43.5
Camshaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 36
Main bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 51
Big-end bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 30
Crankshaft pulley nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 72
Flywheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 32
Rocker pedestal nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 29
Engine mounting bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18
Engine mounting centre nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 36
Exhaust manifold nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15
Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18
Temperature sender switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 36
Driveshaft to hub nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272 200
Hub carrier to strut clamp bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 36
Roadwheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 63
Brake caliper mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 39
Tie-rod end balljoint nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 25
Driveshaft inboard boot retainer bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7
Engine – general 1•3
1

Fig. 1.20 Flywheel housing cover plate
removed (Sec 13)
Fig. 1.19 Left-hand flexible
mounting (Sec 13)
10Disconnect the leads from the reversing
lamp switch.
11Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
cylinder head and coolant pump.
12Disconnect the fuel inlet hose from the
fuel pump. Plug the hose.
13Disconnect the throttle and choke
controls from the carburettor.
14Disconnect the heater hoses from the
engine.
15Disconnect the fuel return hose from the
carburettor.
16Disconnect the exhaust downpipe from
the manifold.
17Raise the front end of the car and support
it securely on axle stands. Remove the
roadwheels.
18Unscrew the driveshaft to hub nuts. These
are very tight and a long knuckle bar will be
required when unscrewing them. Have anassistant apply the brakes hard to prevent the
hub turning.
19Working under the car, remove the
protective shields and disconnect the exhaust
system mountings and withdraw it to the
rear.
20Disconnect the forward ends of the
gearchange rods by prising their sockets from
the ballstuds.
21Unscrew the nuts on the steering tie-rod
end balljoints and using a suitable “splitter”
tool separate the balljoints from the steering
arms. Unbolt the brake calipers and tie them
up out of the way.
22Unscrew and remove the bolts which
secure the hub carriers to the U-clamps at the
base of the suspension struts (photo).
23Pull the tops of the hub carriers from the
clamps and release the driveshafts from the
hub carriers.24Tie the driveshafts in a horizontal plane
with lengths of wire.
25Support the engine on a hoist or use a
trolley jack under the engine/transmission and
remove the bottom mounting and then the
upper left and right-hand ones (photo).
26Carefully lower the power unit to the floor
and withdraw it from under the car.
27External dirt and grease should now be
removed using paraffin and a stiff brush or a
water-soluble solvent.
28Unbolt and remove the engine mounting
brackets and the starter motor.
29Unbolt and remove the cover plate and
gearchange ball stud strut from the lower front
face of the flywheel housing.
30With the engine resting squarely on its
sump pan unscrew the flywheel housing
connecting bolts noting the location of any
lifting lugs and hose and wiring brackets.
1•14 903 cc engine
13.25 Right-hand engine mounting
Fig. 1.18 Hub carrier detached
from strut clamp (Sec 13)
13.22 Hub carrier strut clamp
Fig. 1.17 Tie-rod end balljoint
disconnected (Sec 13)Fig. 1.16 Gearchange rods
disconnected (Sec 13)
Fig. 1.15 Fuel return hose
disconnected from carburettor
(Sec 13)Fig. 1.14 Fuel inlet hose
disconnected from pump
(Sec 13)Fig. 1.13 Coolant hose at rear
of coolant pump (Sec 13)Fig. 1.12 Coolant hoses at
thermostat housing (Sec 13)

micrometer to trace the cause of the trouble.
It is very seldom that any trouble of this nature
will be experienced when fitting the
crankshaft.
9Tighten the main bearing bolts to the
specified torque wrench settings (photo).
10Using a dial gauge or feeler blades
inserted between a thrust washer and the
crankshaft, check the crankshaft endfloat. If it
exceeds the specified limit, the thrust washers
can be changed for thicker ones (photo).
11Bolt on the crankshaft rear oil seal carrier
using a new gasket. The carrier should have
been fitted with a new oil seal and the seal lips
greased (photos).
12Fit the engine rear plate (photo).
Flywheel
13Offer the flywheel to the crankshaft. With
pistons No. 1 and 4 at TDC, the dimple on the
flywheel must be uppermost.
14Screw in and tighten the bolts to the
specified torque. The crankshaft may be held
against rotation by either jamming the starter
ring gear or placing a block of wood between
one of the crankshaft webs and the inside of
the crankcase (photo).
Camshaft
15Oil the cam followers and return them to
their original positions (photo).
16Oil the camshaft bearings and insert the
camshaft, taking great care not to damage the
bearings with the cam lobes. Fit the front
bearing, chamfer inwards (photos).
903 cc engine 1•21
20.10 Checking crankshaft end float20.9 Tightening main bearing cap bolts20.6 Fitting a main bearing cap
20.16B Camshaft front bearing20.16A Fitting camshaft
20.11B Crankshaft oil seal and carrier
fitted20.11A Crankshaft rear oil seal carrier and
gasket
20.14 Tightening flywheel bolts20.12 Engine rear plate
20.15 Cam followers
1

removed and the weight of the car is again on
its roadwheels.
4Fill the cooling system.
5Fill the engine with oil.
6Replenish lost transmission oil.
7Reconnect the battery.
8Adjust the clutch pedal as described in
Chapter 5.
24 Engine- initial start-up after
overhaul or major repair
4
1Make sure that the battery is fully charged
and that all lubricants, coolant and fuel are
replenished.
2If the fuel system has been dismantled it will
require several revolutions of the engine on
the starter motor to pump the petrol up to the
carburettor.
3Turn the carburettor throttle speed screwthrough one complete turn to increase the idle
speed in order to offset the initial stiffness of
new engine internal components.
4As soon as the engine fires and runs, keep
it going at a fast idle speed and bring it up to
normal working temperature.
5As the engine warms up there will be odd
smells and some smoke from parts getting
hot and burning off oil deposits. The signs to
look for are leaks of water or oil which will be
obvious.
6Check also the exhaust pipe and manifold
connections as these do not always “find”
their exact gas tight position until the warmth
and vibration have acted on them and it is
almost certain that they will need tightening
further. This should be done, of course, with
the engine stopped.
7When normal running temperature has
been reached, adjust the engine idle speed as
described in Chapter 3.
8Stop the engine and wait a few minutes tosee if any lubricant or coolant is dripping out
when the engine is stationary.
9Road test the car to check that the timing is
correct and that the engine is giving the
necessary smoothness and power. Do not
race the engine - if new bearings and/or
pistons have been fitted it should be treated
as a new engine and run in at a reduced
speed for the first 500 km (300 miles).
10After the first 1500 km (900 miles) the
cylinder head bolts must be re-torqued in the
following way (engine cold).
11Remove the air cleaner and rocker cover.
Unscrew the first bolt (Fig. 1.7) through a
quarter turn and then tighten it to final stage 2
torque (see Specifications).
12Repeat on the remaining bolts, one at a
time.
13Check and adjust the valve clearances
(Section 5).
14Refit the rocker cover and air cleaner.
903 cc engine 1•23
26.4 Shim engraved mark26.2 Removing a shim from a cam follower25.4 Checking a valve clearance
1
Part 3: 1116 cc and 1301 cc engines
25 Valve clearances- checking
2
This should only be required if the valves
have been renewed or ground in, or at high
mileages when noise or poor engine
performance indicates that a check is
necessary.
It is important that each valve clearance is
set correct otherwise the timing will be
wrong and engine performance poor. If there
is no clearance at all, the valve and its seat
will soon burn. Always set the clearances
with the engine cold.
1Remove the camshaft cover. Jack-up a
front wheel and engage top gear so that by
turning the wheel, the crankshaft can be
rotated.
2Each valve clearance must be checked
when the high point of the cam is pointing
directly upward away from the cam follower.
3Check the clearances in the firing order
1-3-4-2, No. 1 cylinder being at the timing
belt end of the engine. This will minimise the
amount of crankshaft rotation required.4Insert the appropriate feeler blade
between the heel of the cam and the cam
follower shim of the first valve. If necessary
alter the thickness of the feeler blade until it
is a stiff, sliding fit. Record the thickness,
which will, of course, represent the valve
clearance for this particular valve (photo).
5Turn the crankshaft, check the second
valve clearance and record it.
6Repeat the operations on all the remaining
valves, recording their respective clearances.
7Remember that the clearance for inlet and
exhaust valves differs - see Specifications.
Counting from the timing cover end of the
engine, the valve sequence is:
Inlet 2-3-6-7
Exhaust 1-4-5-8
26 Valve clearances-
adjustment
3
1Check the valve clearances (Section 25).
2Clearances which are incorrect will mean
the particular shim will have to be changed.
To remove the shim, turn the crankshaft untilthe high point of the cam is pointing directly
upward. The cam follower will now have to
be depressed so that the shim can be
extracted. Special tools (A60642 and
A87001) are available from your Fiat dealer to
do the job, otherwise you will have to make
up a forked lever to locate on the rim of the
cam follower. This must allow room for the
shim to be prised out by means of the
cut-outs provided in the cam follower rim
(photo).
3Once the shim is extracted, establish its
thickness and change it for a thicker or
thinner one to bring the previously recorded
clearance within specification. For example,
if the measured valve clearance was 1.27
mm (0.05 in) too great, a shim thicker by this
amount will be required. Conversely, if the
clearance was 1.27 mm (0.05 in) too small, a
shim thinner by this amount will be required.
4Shims have their thickness (mm) engraved
on them; although the engraved side should
be fitted so as not to be visible, wear still
occurs and often obliterates the number. In
this case, measuring their thickness with a
metric micrometer is the only method to
establish their thickness (photo).

5In practice, if several shims have to be
changed, they can often be interchanged, so
avoiding the necessity of having to buy more
new shims than is necessary.
6If more than two or three valve clearances
are found to be incorrect, it will be more
convenient to remove the camshaft carrier for
easier removal of the shims.
7Where no clearance can be measured, even
with the thinnest available shim in position,
the valve will have to be removed and the end
of its stem ground off squarely. This will
reduce its overall length by the minimum
amount to provide a clearance. This job
should be entrusted to your dealer as it is
important to keep the end of the valve stem
square.
8On completion, refit the camshaft cover and
gasket.
27 Camshaft and camshaft
carrier- removal and refitting
3
1Disconnect the battery.
2Remove the air cleaner (see Chapter 3).
3Disconnect the fuel filter hose from the fuel
pump and tie it back, out of the way.
4Identify and then disconnect any electrical
leads which must be moved away to enable
the camshaft cover to be withdrawn.
5Identify and disconnect any vacuum gases
which must be moved away to enable the
camshaft cover to be withdrawn.
6Unscrew the securing nuts and remove the
camshaft cover.
7Turn the crankshaft pulley nut until No. 4
piston is at TDC. This can be established as
described in Section 28.
8Unbolt and remove the timing belt cover.
9Check that the timing mark on the camshaft
sprocket is aligned with, and adjacent to the
pointer on the timing belt cover backplate.
10Restrain the timing belt with the hand and
release but do not remove the camshaft
sprocket bolt. Release the belt tensioner
pulley by slackening the pulley centre nut.
Push the timing belt evenly from the
sprockets, noting which way round the belt isfitted if it is to be completely removed. The
lettering on the belt is normally legible from
the crankshaft pulley end of the engine when
the belt is as originally fitted.
11Unbolt the camshaft carrier and lift it
sufficiently from the cylinder head to break the
seal of the mating faces. Note: It is important
not to allow the cam followers to pull out; they
must be retained in their original locations.
This can be done if the carrier is raised very
slowly, until the fingers can be inserted to
prise the cam followers onto their respective
valve spring retainers. It is unlikely that the
valve clearance adjusting shims will be
displaced from their recesses in the cam
followers because of the suction of the
lubricating oil, but watch that this does not
happen; the shims must also be retained in
their originally fitted sequence.
12Remove the previously loosened
camshaft sprocket bolt and take the sprocket
from the camshaft.
13Unbolt and remove the camshaft end
cover with its gasket. Withdraw the camshaft
(photos).
14Refitting is a reversal of the removal
process, but observe the following points.
15Use new gaskets.
16Retain the cam followers and shims in
their bores in the camshaft carrier with thick
grease; they must not be allowed to drop out
when the carrier is lowered onto the cylinder
head.
17If the crankshaft or camshaft have been
moved from their set positions, re-align the
sprocket timing mark with the pointer on the
belt cover and the crankshaft pulley or
flywheel with the TDC mark. This must be
observed otherwise the valves may impinge
upon the piston crowns when the camshaft
lobes compress any of the valve springs
during bolting down of the carrier.
18Screw in the carrier bolts and tighten
them to the specified torque (photo).
19Refit and tension the timing belt as
described in Section 28.
20Refit the camshaft cover and gasket.
21Refit the hose and air cleaner.
22Reconnect the battery.
28 Timing belt- renewal
3
1Set No. 4 piston at TDC. Do this by turning
the crankshaft pulley nut or by jacking up a
front roadwheel, engaging a gear and turning
the wheel until the mark on the flywheel is
opposite to the TDC mark on the flywheel
bellhousing aperture. Remove No. 4 spark
plug, place a finger over the plug hole and feel
the compression being generated as the
crankshaft is rotated and the piston rises up
the cylinder bore.
2On some models the TDC marks on the
crankshaft pulley and belt cover may be
visible and can be used instead.
3Remove the alternator drivebelt (Chapter 2,
Section 8). Unbolt and remove the timing belt
cover.
4Check that the timing mark on the camshaft
sprocket is aligned with the pointer on the belt
cover backing plate (photo).
5Slacken the nut in the centre of the
tensioner pulley and push in on the support to
release the tension on the belt, then retighten
the nut. Slide the drivebelt off the pulleys.
6Check that the crankshaft and camshaft
pulleys have not been moved from their
previously aligned positions.
7To check that the auxiliary shaft sprocket
has not moved, take off the distributor cap
and check that the contact end of the rotor
arm is aligned with No. 4 HT lead contact in
the cap.
1•24 1116 cc and 1301 cc engine
28.4 Camshaft sprocket alignment marks
27.18 Tightening a camshaft carrier bolt27.13B Withdrawing camshaft from carrier27.13A Removing camshaft end cover

2The big-end bearing shells can be renewed
without having to remove the cylinder head if
the caps are unbolted and the
piston/connecting rod pushed gently about
one inch up the bore (the crankpin being at its
lowest point). If these shells are worn,
however, the main bearing shells will almost
certainly be worn as well. In this case, the
engine should be removed for complete
overhaul including crankshaft removal.
3To remove the piston/connecting rods,
remove the cylinder head as described in
Section 29.
4Grip the oil pick-up pipe and twist or rock it
from its hole in the crankcase. It is an
interference fit in the hole.
5Unscrew the nuts from the big-end caps,
then remove the caps with their bearing
shells. The caps and their connecting rods are
numbered 1, 2, 3 and 4 from the timing cover
end of the engine. The numbers are adjacent
at the big-end cap joint and on the side of the
crankcase furthest from the auxiliary shaft.
6If the bearing shells are to be used again,
tape them to their respective big-end caps.
7Push each connecting rod/piston assembly
up the bore and out of the cylinder block.
There is one reservation; if a wear ridge has
developed at the top of the bores, remove this
by careful scraping before trying to remove
the piston/rod assemblies. The ridge will
otherwise prevent removal or break the piston
rings during the attempt.
8If the connecting rod bearing shells are to
be used again, tape the shells to their
respective rods.
9Dismantling the piston/connecting rod is
described in Section 18.
Refitting
10Fit the new shells into the connecting rod
and caps, ensuring the surfaces on which the
shells seat, are clean and dry.
11Check that the piston ring gaps are evenly
spaced at 120º intervals. Liberally oil the rings
and the cylinder bores.
12Fit a piston ring clamp to compress the
rings.
13Insert the piston/connecting rod into the
cylinder bore, checking that the rod assembly
is correct for that particular bore. The cap and
rod matching numbers must be furthest away
from the auxiliary shaft (Fig. 1.31).14Push the piston into the bore until the
piston ring clamp is against the cylinder block
and then tap the crown of the piston lightly to
push it out of the ring clamp and into the bore
(photo).
15Oil the crankshaft journal and fit the
big-end of the connecting rod to the journal.
Fit the big-end cap and nuts, checking that
the cap is the right way round (photo).
16Tighten the big-end nuts to the specified
torque. The correct torque is important as the
nuts have no locking arrangement. After
tightening each big-end, check the crankshaft
rotates smoothly (photo).
17Refit the oil pick-up pipe, the cylinder
head, oil pump and sump pan, all as
described earlier.
18Refill the engine with oil and coolant.
33 Engine mountings-
renewal
1
1Three engine/transmission flexible
mountings are used.
2To renew a mounting, support the weight of
the engine/transmission on a hoist or jack and
unbolt and remove the mounting.
3In the unlikely event of all three mountings
requiring renewal at the same time, only
disconnect them and renew them one at a
time.
34 Engine- method of removal
1The engine complete with transmission
should be removed by lowering it to the floor
and withdrawing it from under the front of the
car which will have been raised to provide
adequate clearance.
35 Engine/transmission-
removal and separation
3
1Open the bonnet, disconnect the
windscreen washer tube.
2Mark the hinge positions on the undersideof the bonnet and then with the help of an
assistant to support its weight unbolt and
remove the bonnet to a safe place.
3Disconnect the battery negative lead.
4Drain the cooling system and the engine
and transmission oils.
5Remove the air cleaner.
6From the rear of the alternator disconnect
the electrical leads.
7Disconnect the leads from the starter
motor, oil pressure and coolant temperature
switches, also the oil temperature switch.
8Disconnect the LT lead from the distributor
and the HT lead from the ignition coil.
9Disconnect the clutch cable from the
release lever at the transmission. Also
disconnect the speedometer drive cable
(knurled ring).
10Pull the leads from the reversing lamp
switch.
11Disconnect all coolant hoses from the
engine. Also disconnect the brake servo hose
from the intake manifold.
12Disconnect the choke and throttle
controls from the carburettor.
13Disconnect the inlet hose from the fuel
pump and plug the hose.
14Disconnect the fuel return hose from the
carburettor.
15Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
carburettor throttle block.
16Raise the front of the car and remove the
front roadwheels.
17Unscrew and remove the driveshaft to
hub nuts. These are very tight and a long
knuckle bar will be required when unscrewing
them. Have an assistant apply the brake pedal
hard to prevent the hub from turning.
18Working under the car, remove the inner
wing protective shields and then disconnect
the exhaust downpipe from the manifold.
19Disconnect the exhaust pipe sections by
removing the socket clamp just forward of the
rear axle beam. Remove the front section.
20Disconnect the forward ends of the
gearchange rods by prising their sockets from
the ballstuds.
21Unscrew the nuts on the steering tie-rod
end balljoints and then using a suitable
“splitter” tool, separate the balljoints from the
steering arms.
22Unbolt the front brake hose support clips
1116 cc and 1301 cc engine 1•27
32.16 Tightening a big-end cap nut32.15 Fitting a big-end cap32.14 Fitting piston into cylinder bore
1