gas FORD MUSTANG 1969 Volume One Chassis
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: FORD, Model Year: 1969, Model line: MUSTANG, Model: FORD MUSTANG 1969Pages: 413, PDF Size: 75.81 MB
Page 60 of 413

02-02-41
Brake System
02-02-41
bolt and G-ring in the bottom of the
master cylinder.
8. Install the bleed screw (if so
equipped). Install the gasket (dia-
phragm) in the master cylinder filler
cover. Position the gasket as shown in
Figs.
40 and 41. Make sure the gasket
is securely seated.
9. Install the cover and gasket on
the master cylinder and secure the
cover into position with the retainer.
DISC BRAKE CALIPER
ALL MODELS EXCEPT
LINCOLN CONTINENTAL
Disassembly
1.
Remove the caliper assembly
from the vehicle as outlined in Section
2.
2.
Remove the caliper locating pins
from the caliper assembly and lift the
anchor plate from the caliper.
3.
Slide the two outer shoe retain-
ing clips off the retaining pins (Fig.
43).
4.
Remove the two retaining pins,
then remove the outer brake shoe
from the caliper.
5.
Slide the inner brake shoe out-
ward until it is free of the hold-down
springs, then remove the brake shoe.
6. Apply air pressure to the fluid
port in the caliper with a rubber
tipped nozzle (Tool 7000-DD) as
shown in Fig. 44 to remove the piston.
Place a cloth over the piston before
applying air pressure to prevent dam-
age to the piston. If the piston is
seized and cannot be forced from the
FIBER
BLOCK
CALIPER
PISTON
H 1574-B
FIG. 44 —Removing Piston From
Caliper —
All
Models Except
Lincoln Continental
caliper, tap lightly around the piston
while applying air pressure. Care
should be taken because the piston
can develop considerable force due to
pressure build-up.
7.
Remove the dust boot from the
caliper assembly.
8. Remove the rubber piston seal
from the cylinder and discard it.
Cleaning and Inspection
Clean all metal parts with isopropyl
alcohol or a suitable solvent. Use
clean, dry, compressed air to clean out
and dry the grooves and passage ways.
Be sure that the caliper bore and com-
ponent parts are completely free of
any foreign material.
Check the cylinder bore and piston
for damage or excessive wear. Replace
the piston if it is pitted, scored, or the
chrome plating is worn off.
Assembly
1.
Apply a film of clean brake fluid
to the new caliper piston seal and in-
stall it in the cylinder bore. Be sure
the seal does not become twisted and
that it is seated fully in the groove.
2.
Install a new dust boot by setting
the flange squarely in the outer groove
of the caliper bore.
3.
Coat the piston with the speci-
fied fluid and install the piston in the
cylinder bore. Spread the dust boot
over the piston as it is installed. Seat
the dust boot in the piston groove.
4.
Position the inner brake shoe so
that the ears of the shoe rests on the
top of the anchor plate bosses and be-
neath the hold-down springs.
5.
Install new caliper locating pin
insulators in the anchor plate.
6. Position the caliper on the an-
chor plate.
7.
Apply water or isopropyl alcohol
to the caliper locating pins and install
them loosely in the anchor plate. Be
sure the guide pins are free of oil,
grease or dirt.
8. Install the caliper on the spindle
as outlined under Disc Brake Caliper
Assembly.
LINCOLN CONTINENTAL
Disassembly
Do not remove the bridge bolts that
hold the two halves of the caliper to-
gether. The two caliper housings are
shown separated in Fig. 46 for illus-
tration purposes only.
1.
Remove the caliper assembly
from the car as outlined in Section 2.
2.
Remove the two attaching bolts
and the caliper splash shield (Fig. 46).
3.
Remove the two shoe and lining
assemblies.
4.
Remove the flexible brake hose
from the caliper.
5.
Remove the external transfer
tube.
6. Remove the four dust boots from
the caliper housings and piston
grooves.
7.
Clamp the caliper in a vise and
secure it by the mounting flanges on
the inboard housing (Fig. 45).
8. Remove the four pistons from
the cylinder bores with the special tool
shown in Fig. 45. To prevent cocking
with consequent damage to the piston
or bore, rotate the piston with the tool
while pulling it outward at the same
time.
Be careful to avoid scratching or
damaging the outside diameter surface
or dust boot retaining groove of the
piston. Such damage causes poor seal-
ing.
If a piston is so completely seized in
the cylinder bore that it can not be re-
moved with the special tool, the cali-
per housing must be replaced, by posi-
tioning two screwdrivers in the piston
dust boot retaining groove and prying
outward. To prevent cocking, tap the
end of the piston lightly around the
circumference with a hammer, while
the prying force is being applied. Be
careful to avoid damaging the dust
boot retainer in the caliper housing
(Fig. 46). If this method of removal is
used, the pistons must be replaced.
If the caliper dust boot retainer or
retaining groove is damaged or
scratched, pry the retainer out of the
caliper housing with screwdrivers.
Too/-T65P-2
J
18- A
H 1652-A
FIG. 45—Removing or Installing
Pistons —
Lincoln
Continentalprocarmanuals.com
Page 75 of 413

03-01-10
Suspension — Steering, Wheels And Tires — General Service
03-01-10
The following procedure should be
followed when cleaning the relief valve
which is a part of the pump valve as-
sembly.
1.
Using a punch or rod of suitable
diameter, apply an even pressure in a
straight line to the tip of the relief
valve pin (Fig. 20). Depress the valve
two or three times to exhaust the oil
which is trapped in the assembly. Do
not hammer on the valve pin or hous-
ing.
2.
Submerge the assembly in a con-
tainer of clean solvent. Again applying
an even pressure to the tip of the relief
valve pin, (a sudden strong force could
push the pin through the relief valve
spool) move the valve in and out sev-
eral times, thereby thoroughly flushing
the assembly. Pressure created within
the valve bore when the valve is moved
inward should force the cleaning fluid
out through the sensing orifice. If this
does not occur, the sensing orifice
should be cleaned with a piece of wire.
The valve must move freely and even-
ly. If the pin is bent or damaged, or if
the valve binds, the pump valve must
be replaced.
INSPECTION
The following describes the compo-
nents of the power steering pump
which must be replaced regardless of
condition and how to determine when
other components should be replaced.
The outlet fitting hex nut may be
reused if the corners of the hex are
not rounded. The housing bolts may
be reused if the threads are not dam-
aged.
All gaskets and seals must be re-
placed with new components except
the rotor shaft seal which should be
reused unless it was leaking.
The reservoir assembly may be
reused if the reservoir seal and gasket
areas are not damaged (dents, scratch-
es,
etc.). The soldered joints of the re-
turn and fill tubes must not be loose
or bent. Be sure to check for a broken
baffle.
The housing or housing assembly
may be reused if there is no damage
(scratches, etc.) at reservoir gasket,
outlet fitting or cover seal areas.
If the outlet fitting is damaged, the
pump housing must be replaced. The
pressure plate springs may be reused
providing they are not bent, broken or
have not taken a set.
Do not reuse the retainer end plate
if it is burred or damaged. The upper
pressure plate may be reused if there
is no scoring on the wear surface. It is
acceptable to polish the phosphate
coating.
The rotor and cam assembly can be
reused if there is no wear other than
the removal of the phosphate coating
on the cam contour. Do not disas-
semble the rotor and cam assembly.
Push the rotor part way out the cam
insert taking care not to let the slip-
pers and springs fall out. Check the
cam ID for scoring and burning.
Check the rotor faces and OD for
scoring and chipping. Do not attempt
to repair or refinish the lower and
upper pressure plates, cam or rotor
assembly. When wear or burning is
encountered, replace, them with new
components.
Install a new rotor and cam assem-
bly if the slippers are worn. Replace
the springs if they are bent or broken.
Polishing the phosphate coating of the
slipper sealing surface is permissable.
The rotor shaft can be reused if the
front and rear thrust faces, the bush-
ing diameter and the shaft seal diame-
ter are not excessively worn or scored.
The housing plate and bushing as-
sembly may be reused if all of the
threaded holes are not damaged
beyond repair and the bushing diame-
ter is not scored or worn .0005 inch
over the maximum dimension of .6897
inch. Threaded holes can be repaired
by drilling out the damaged threads
and installing a helicoil insert. If the
bushing is scored or excessively worn,
a new plate and bushing assembly
must be installed.
With Tool T69P-3D608-A (using a
dial indicator) check the squareness of
the fixed dowel pin in the plate (Fig.
21).
The pin must be square with the
adjacent surface within .001 inch per
inch through a 180 degree arch.
A bent or broken dowel pin can be
replaced as follows:
1.
Hold the plate assembly in a
horizontal position and grip at least
an inch of the dowel pin in a vise. Tap
the plate with a plastic or a rubber
hammer to pull the pin from the
plate.
2.
Insert the support guide (Tool
T69P-3D608-B) over a dowel pin (Fig.
22) and press the pin into the plate to
a height of 1.68 inch (See Fig. 23).
The support guide tool will serve as a
stop guide. Be careful not to bend the
new dowel pin during installation.
3.
Again use Tool T69P-3D608-A
(with a dial indicaator) to check the
dowel pin squareness as outlined
above.
POWER STEERING PUMP
INSPECTION—LINCOLN
CONTINENTAL AND
CONTINENTAL MARK III
1.
Wash all parts in clean solvent
and dry them with clean cloths or
compressed air.
2.
Inspect the rotor shaft for wear,
scoring, nicks, or burrs. Replace the
shaft if it is damaged or if the inner
keyway is damaged.
Tool
T69P-3D608-B
G1609-A
FIG. 22—Dowel Pin Insertion
Tool
T69P-3D608-A
G1608-A
FIG. 21—Dowel Pin Squareness
Check
FIG. 23 — Replacing Dowel Pinprocarmanuals.com
Page 86 of 413

03-02-10
Suspension
03-02-10
lower
arm
free
to
drop
as
coil spring
tension
is
eased.
If a
chain hoist
or a
jack that
has
a
narrow contact
pad is
to
be
used
on the
bumper
to
raise
the
car, distribute
the
load along
the
bumper
by
using
a
steel plate
3 or 4
inches long
as a
contact
pad to pre-
vent damaging
the
bumper.
2.
If the
ball joint
is
riveted
to the
arm, drill
a
1/8-inch
pilot hole
com-
pletely through each rivet. Then drill
off
the
rivet head through
the
pilot
hole with
a
3/8-inch drill,
and
drive
out both rivets.
3.
Position
a
jack
or
safety stand
under
the
lower
arm, and
lower
the
vehicle about
6
inches
to
offset
the
coil spring tension.
4.
Remove
the
cotter
pin
from
the
ball joint stud,
and
remove
the nut.
5.
Place
a box
wrench over
the
lower
end
of the
tool shown
in
Fig.
7,
and position
the
tool.
The
tool should
seat firmly against
the end of
both
studs,
and
not
against
the
upper stud
nut.
6. Turn
the
wrench until both studs
are under tension,
and
then, with
a
hammer,
tap the
spindle near
the
lower stud
to
loosen
the
stud from
the
spindle.
Do not
loosen
the
stud with
tool pressure alone. Remove
the
ball
joint.
7.
Clean
the end of the arm, and
remove
all
burrs from
the
hole edges.
Check
for
cracks
in the
metal
at the
holes,
and
replace
the arm if it is
cracked.
8. Position
the
stud
of
the
ball joint
to
the
spindle bore,
and
install
the at-
taching
nut
finger-tight.
9. Attach
the
ball joint
to
the
lower
arm.
Use
only
the
specified bolts
and
nuts.
Do not
rivet
the new
ball joint
to
the
arm.
Torque nuts
to
specification.
10.
Torque
the
ball joint stud
nut
to specification,
and
install
a
new cot-
ter
pin.
11.
Remove
the
jack.
12.
Check
and, if
necessary, adjust
caster, camber,
and
toe-in. Whenever
any part
of the
front suspension
has
been removed
and
installed, front
wheel alignment must
be
checked.
BALL JOINT REPLACEMENT
LINCOLN CONTINENTAL
The lower ball joint
is
riveted
to
the
lower
arm
wheras
the
upper ball joint
is bolted
to the
upper
arm.
When
re-
placing
a
ball joint,
use all the
parts
supplied
in the kit.
T57P-3006-A
UPPER
ARM
UPPER BALL JOINT
LOWER BALL JOINT
\
LOWER
ARM
T62F.3006-A
F
1493-A
FIG. 13— Loosening Ball Joint
Stud
Lower
Arm
1.
Raise
the
vehicle. Place
a sup-
port under each rail
to the
rear
of
the
lower
arm in the
lifting
pad
area.
2.
Remove
the
wheel
and
tire from
the
hub.
3.
Remove
2
bolts
and
washers that
attach
the
caliper
to the
spindle.
Re-
move
the
caliper from
the
rotor
and
wire
it to the
underbody
to
prevent
damage
to the
brake hose.
4.
Remove
the hub and
rotor from
the spindle.
5.
Remove
the
splash shield
and
gasket from
the
spindle.
6. Remove
the
cotter
pin
from
the
lower ball stud,
and
loosen
the nut
one
to two
turns.
7.
Place
a box
wrench over
the
lower
end of the
ball joint remover
tool,
and
position
the
tool
as in Fig.
13.
The
tool should seat firmly against
the ends
of
both studs,
and not
against
the
lower stud
nut.
8. Turn
the
wrench until both studs
are under tension,
and
then, with
a
hammer,
tap the
spindle near
the
lower stud
to
loosen
the
stud from
the
spindle.
Do not
loosen
the
stud with
tool pressure alone.
9. Place
a
jack under
the
spring
pocket
in the
lower
arm, and
raise
the
arm slightly. Place
a
support stand
under
the
lower
arm as a
safety
pre-
caution.
10.
Remove
the nut
from
the
ball
joint stud. Raise
the
upper
arm and
spindle until
the
spindle clears
the
ball
stud. Prop
the
upper
arm in a
raised
position.
11.
Remove
the
ball -joint rivet
heads with
a
chisel. Punch
the
remain-
ing portion
of the
rivets from
the
holes,
and
remove
the
joint.
12.
Install
the
new
joint using
the
parts supplied
in the kit.
Torque
the
nuts
to
specification. Make sure
the
joint
is
completely filled with
the
spec-
ified lubricant.
13.
Lower
the
upper
arm
while
guiding
the
spindle over
the
ball stud.
Install
the
stud
nut and
tighten
it to
specification. Continue
to
tighten
the
nut
to
line
up the
cotter
pin
hole.
In-
stall
the
cotter
pin.
14.
Install
the
gasket
and
shield
on
the spindle. Tighten
the
attaching
bolts
to
specifications.
15.
Install
the
hub and
rotor
on the
spindle
and
adjust
the
wheel bearings.
16.
Install
the
caliper
to
the
spindle
and tighten
the
attaching bolts
to
specifications. Check
for the
correct
flexible hose routing (Part
2-2).
17.
Install
the
wheel
and
tire.
Tor-
que
the
wheel nuts
to
specification
and
lower
the
vehicle.
Upper
Arm
1.
Place
a
jack under
the
outer
end
of
the
lower
arm,
and
raise
the arm.
Place
a
support stand under
the
side
rail
in the
lifting
pad
area.
2.
Remove
the
wheel
and
tire.
3.
Remove
the
cotter
pin
from
the
upper ball stud,
and
loosen
the nut
one
to two
turns.
%
4.
Place
a box
wrench over
the
lower
end of the
ball joint remover
tool,
and
position
the
tool
as in Fig.
13).
The
tool should seat firmly
against
the
ends
of
both studs,
and
not against
the
upper stud
nut.
5.
Turn
the
wrench until both studs
are under tension,
and
then, with
a
hammer,
tap the
spindle near
the
upper stud
to
loosen
the
stud from
the
spindle.
Do not
loosen
the
stud with
tool pressure alone.
6. Raise
the
upper
arm to
free
the
ball stud from
the
spindle. Wire
the
upper
end
of
the
spindle
to the
under-
body
to
prevent damage
to the
brake
hose.
7.
Remove
the
ball joint retaining
nuts
and
bolts,
and
remove
the
joint.
8. Install
the new
joint using
the
parts supplied
in the kit.
Torque
theprocarmanuals.com
Page 96 of 413

03-02-20
Suspension
03-02-20
hub and rotor on the spindle. Position
the caliper over the rotor and install
the attaching bolts. Torque the bolts
to specification (Part 3-13). Install the
wheel and tire on the hub and adjust
the wheel bearings as outlined in Part
3-12 .
7.
Install the hub cap or wheel
cover. Then, remove the support stand
and lower the vehicle.
8. Check caster, camber, and toe-in
(Part 3-1) and adjust as necessary.
COUGAR, FAIRLANE,
FALCON, MONTEGO,
MUSTANG
Drum Brakes
Removal
1.
Position a support between the
upper arm and frame as shown in
Figs.
8 and 9; then, raise the vehicle
and position safety stands.
2.
Remove the hub cap or wheel
cover.
3.
Remove the grease cap from the
hub;
then, remove the adjusting nut,
washer, and outer bearing cone and
roller assembly.
4.
Pull the wheel, hub, and drum
assembly off the wheel spindle.
5.
Remove the brake backing plate
from the spindle. Support the plate to
prevent damage to the brake hose.
6. Disconnect the spindle connect-
ing rod end from the spindle arm
using Tool 3290-C.
7.
Remove the cotter pins from
both ball joint stud nuts, and loosen
the nuts one or two turns. Do not re-
move the nuts from the studs at this
time.
8. Position the ball joint remover
tool between the upper and lower ball
joint studs (Fig. 10). The tool should
seat firmly against the ends of both
studs and not against the stud nuts.
9. Turn the tool with a wrench until
the tool places the studs under consid-
erable tension, and, with a hammer,
hit the spindle smartly near the studs
to break them loose in the spindle. Do
not loosen the studs in the spindle
with tool pressure alone.
10.
Remove the stud nuts and re-
move the spindle from both studs.
Installation
1.
Position the spindle on the lower
ball joint stud and install the stud nut
(Fig. 25).
2.
Raise the lower suspension arm
and guide the upper ball joint stud
into the spindle. Install the stud nut.
3.
Torque the upper stud nut and
then the lower stud nut to specifica-
tion. Continue to tighten both nuts
until the cotter pin holes and slots line
up.
Install new cotter pins.
4.
Connect the spindle connecting
rod end to the spindle arm.
5.
Install the brake backing plate
on the spindle, and torque the bolts to
specification.
6. Install the wntel and drum and
adjust the wheel bearing (Part 3-12).
7.
Remove the safety stands, and
lower the vehicle.
8. Remove the support from be-
tween the upper arm and frame.
9. Check and, if necessary, adjust
caster, camber, and toe-in.
Disc Brakes
Removal
1.
Remove the hub cap or wheel
cover, and remove the wheel and tire
from the hub.
2.
Remove two bolts attaching the
caliper to the spindle. Remove the cal-
iper from the rotor and wire it to the
underbody to prevent damage to the
brake hose.
3.
Remove the grease cap from the
hub,
then, remove the adjusting nut,
washer, and outer bearing cone and
roller assembly.
4.
Pull the hub and rotor assembly
off the wheel spindle.
5.
Remove the three caliper shield
attaching bolts and remove the shield.
6. Disconnect the spindle connect-
ing rod end from the spindle arm
using Tool-3290-C.
7.
Remove the cotter pins from
both ball joint stud nuts, and loosen
the nuts one or two turns. Do not re-
move the nuts from the studs at this
time.
8. Position the ball joint remover
tool between the upper and lower ball
joint studs (Fig. 10). The tool should
seat firmly against the ends of both
studs and not against the stud nuts.
9. Turn the tool with a wrench until
the tool places the studs under consid-
erable tension, and, with a hammer,
hit the spindle smartly near the studs
to break them loose in the spindle. Do
not loosen the studs in the spindle
with tool pressure alone.
10.
Position a floor jack under the
lower suspension arm.
11.
Remove the upper and lower
ball joint stud nuts; lower the jack
and remove the spindle.
Installation
1.
Position the spindle on the lower
ball joint stud and install the stud nut
(Fig. 25). Torque the nut to specifica-
tion and install the cotter pin.
2.
Raise the lower suspension arm,
and guide the upper ball joint stud
into the spindle. Install the stud nut.
3.
Torque the nut to specifications
and install the cotter pin. Then, re-
move the floor jack.
4.
Connect the spindle connecting
rod end to the spindle arm and install
the attaching nut. Torque the nut to
specification and install the cotter pin.
5.
Position the caliper splash shield
to the spindle and install the attaching
bolts and nuts. Torque the nuts and
bolts to specification.
6. Install the hub and rotor on the
spindle.
7.
Position the caliper to the rotor
and spindle and install the attaching
bolts.
Torque the bolts to specification
and install the safety wire.
8. Install the wheel and tire on the
hub and adjust the wheel bearing
(Part 3-12).
9. Install the hub cap or wheel
cover.
10.
Before driving the vehicle,
pump the brake pedal several times to
obtain normal brake lining-to-rotor
clearance and restore normal brake
pedal travel.
LINCOLN CONTINENTAL
Removal
1.
Raise the vehicle. Place a sup-
port under each side rail to the rear of
the lower arm in the lifting pad area.
2.
Remove the wheel and tire from
the hub.
3.
Remove 2 bolts and washers that
attach the caliper to the spindle. Re-
move the caliper from the rotor and
wire it to the underbody to prevent
damage to the brake hose.
4.
Remove the hub and rotor from
the spindle.
5.
Remove the splash shield and
gasket from the spindle.
6. Disconnect the spindle arm con-
necting rod from the spindle arm with
Tool 3290-C. See Fig. 23.
7.
Remove the cotter pins from
both ball joint stud nuts. Loosen the
nuts one to two turns.procarmanuals.com
Page 97 of 413

03-02-21
Suspension
03-02-21
8. Place a box wrench over the
lower end of the ball joint remover
tool, and position the tool as in Fig.
13.
The tool should seat firmly against
the ends of both studs, and not
against the stud nuts.
9. Turn the wrench until both studs
are under tension, and then, tap the
spindle with a hammer near the studs
to loosen them from the spindle. Do
not loosen
the
studs with tool pressure
alone.
10.
Place a jack under the outer
end of the lower arm, and raise the
arm several inches. Remove both ball
stud nuts, and remove t^e spindle.
Installation
1.
Position the new spindle onto the
upper and lower ball joint studs, in-
stall the stud nuts and tighten the nuts
to specifications. Continue to tighten
both nuts until the cotter pin holes
line up with the slots, then install new
cotter pines.
2.
Connect the spindle connecting
rod to the spindle arm. Install the re-
taining nut and tighten the nut to
specification. Continue to tighten the
nut until the cotter pin hole lines up
with the slot, then install a new cotter
pin.
3.
Install the gasket and splash
shield on the spindle. Tighten the at-
taching bolts to specifications.
4.
Install the hub and rotor on the
spindle.
5.
Install the caliper to the spindle
and tighten the attaching bolts to spe-
cifications. Check for the correct flex-
ible hose routing (Part 2-2).
6. Install the wheel and tire and ad-
just the wheel bearings (Part 3-12).
7.
Lubricate the steering stop on
the lower arm and the mating flat on
the spindle with the specified lubri-
cant.
8. Remove the safety stands, lower
the car and check camber, caster and
toe-in.
FRONT SHOCK ABSORBER
REPLACEMENT
FORD, MERCURY,
METEOR, THUNDERBIRD,
CONTINENTAL MARK III
1.
Remove the nut, washer, and
bushing from the shock absorber
upper end.
2.
Raise the vehicle on a hoist and
install safety stands.
3.
Remove 2 bolts attaching the
shock absorber to the lower arm and
remove the shock absorber.
4.
Place a washer and bushing on
the shock absorber top stud and posi-
tion the shock absorber inside the
front spring. Install the 2 lower at-
taching bolts and torque them to spe-
cifications.
5.
Remove the safety stands and
lower the vehicle.
6. Place a bushing and washer on
the shock absorber top stud and in-
stall the attaching nut. Torque it to
specification.
COUGAR, FAIRLANE,
FALCON, MONTEGO,
MUSTANG
Removal
1. Raise the hood and remove 3
shock absorber upper mounting
bracket-to-spring tower attaching
nuts.
2.
Raise the front of the vehicle and
place safety stands under the lower
arms.
3.
Remove 2 shock absorber lower
attaching nuts and washers.
4.
Lift the shock absorber and
upper bracket from the spring tower
(Fig. 26) and remove the bracket from
the shock absorber.
Installation
1. Install the upper mounting
bracket on the shock absorber and
torque to specification.
2.
Position the shock absorber and
upper mounting bracket in the spring
tower, making sure the shock absor-
ber lower studs are in the pivot plate
holes.
3.
Install the 2 washers and attach-
ing nuts on the shock absorber lower
studs and torque to specification.
4.
Install the 3 shock absorber
upper mounting bracket-to-spring
tower attaching nuts and torque to
specification. Then, remove the safety
stands and lower the vehicle.
LINCOLN CONTINENTAL
Removal
1.
Remove the stud nut at the
upper eye of the shock absorber. Re-
move the upper eye stud bracket to
crossmember attaching bolt and re-
move the stud bracket. Refer to Fig.
22.
2.
Remove the bolts which attach
the shock absorber to the suspension
lower arm. Lower, and remove the
shock absorber.
3.
Examine the shock absorber unit
and rubber bushings. Replace parts
that are defective, deteriorated, or
worn.
Installation
1. Fully extend the shock absorber
and position it inside the coil spring.
Connect the lower end of the shock
absorber to the suspension lower arm.
Torque the attaching nuts to specifica-
tion.
2.
Insert the upper bracket stud
through the bushing in the shock ab-
sorber upper eye. Install the stud
bracket to crossmember attaching
bolt. Do not tighten the bolt: at this
time.
3.
Install the upper eye bracket
stud nut. Torque the nut to specifica-
tion.
4.
Torque the stud bracket- to-
crossmember attaching bolt to specifi-
cation.
The
shock absorber upper
eye
stud
nut
must
be
tightened
to com-
press
the
rubber bushing before
the
stud bracket
is
bolted
to the
crossmember;
otherwise,
the
upper
at-
tachment could
be
loose
and
noisy.
REAR SHOCK ABSORBER
REPLACEMENT
FORD, MERCURY,
METEOR, THUNDERBIRD,
CONTINENTAL MARK 1(11
1.
Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
2.
Remove the shock absorber at-
taching nut, washer and insulator
from the upper stud at the upper side
of the spring upper seat. Compress the
shock absorber to clear the hole in the
spring seat, and remove the inner in-
sulator and washer from the upper at-
taching stud.
3.
Remove the self-locking attach-
ing nut, and disconnect the shock ab-
sorber lower stud from the mounting
bracket on the rear axle housing (Fig.
4).
4.
Expel all air by performing step
3 On Vehicle Tests in Part 3-1.
5.
Place the inner washer and insu-
lator on the upper attaching stud, and
position the shock absorber so that
the upper attaching stud enters the
hole in the spring upper seat. While
holding the shock absorber in this po-
sition, install the outer insulator andprocarmanuals.com
Page 108 of 413

03-03-03
Automatic Air Leveling System
03-03-03
COMPRESSOR LINE
AIR
CYLINDER LINE INTAKE PORT EXHAUSTPORT
ADJUSTMENT SCREW
MOUNTING BRACKET
HEIGHT CONTROL VALVE
REAR SUSPENSION UPPER
ARM
FIG. 3—Height Control Valve Installation
Al R CYLINDER
F 1365-A
FIG. 4—Air Cylinder Installation
3 MAJOR REPAIRS
AIR COMPRESSOR
Compressor repair should
be
limit-
ed
to the
cleaning
of the
micro-bon
filter.
REMOVAL
1.
Remove
the
three cover filter
at-
taching screws.
2.
Remove
the
filter
and
cover
gasket.
3.
Wash
the
filter
in
solvent, blow
it
dry
with compressed
air
working
from
the
inside outward.
INSTALLATION
1.
Position
a new
gasket
and the
cover
on the
compressor.
2.
Install
the
three attaching
screws.
HEIGHT CONTROL VALVE
Other than adjusting
the
trim
height,
no
repairs should
be
made
to
the height control valve.
1.
Thoroughly clean exterior
of the
height control valve.procarmanuals.com
Page 137 of 413

03-06-03
Manual Steering
03-06-03
MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS
STEERING GEAR
DISASSEMBLY
1. Rotate the steering shaft 3 turns
from either stop.
2.
After removing the sector adjust-
ing screw locknut and the housing
cover bolts (Fig. 6), remove the sector
shaft with the cover. Remove the
cover from the shaft by turning the
screw clockwise. Keep the shim with
the screw.
HOUSING
•
3548
6. Turn the ball nut over, and ro-
tate the worm shaft from side to side
until all 50 balls have dropped out of
the nut into a clean pan. With the
balls removed, the ball nut will slide
off the worm.
7. Remove the upper bearing cup
from the bearing adjuster and the
lower cup from the housing. It may be
necessary to tap the housing or the
adjuster on a block of wood to jar the
bearing cups loose.
8. If the preliminary inspection
GASKET
• 3581
SHIM-3A657 COVER
AND
BUSHING
•
3583
SECTOR SHAFT
ADJUSTING SCREW
.
3577
•BEARING-3576
SEAL
- 3591
G 1623-A
FIG. 6—Sector Shaft
and
Housing Disassembled
-^-HOUSING-3548
BEARING
CUP •
3552
BALL
NUT
BEARING-3571
FILLER PLUG-3556
LOCK NUT-3707
3524 BEARING
CUP \
SEAL-3738
•GUIDE -3523
• BEARINGS
•
3647
.CLAMP-3544
BEARING
• 3571
G 1624-A
FIG. 7—Steering Shaft
and
Related Parts Disassembled
3.
Loosen the worm bearing adjust-
er nut, and remove the adjuster as-
sembly and the steering shaft upper
bearing (Fig. 7).
4.
Carefully pull the steering shaft
and ball nut from the housing, and i •-
move the steering shaft lower bearr g.
To avoid possible damage to the ball
return guides, keep
the
ball
nut
from
running down
to
either
end of the
worm.
Disassemble
the
ball only
if
there
is
indication
of
binding
or
tightness.
5.
Remove the ball return guide
clamp and the ball return guides from
the ball
nut.
Keep
the
ball
nut
clamp-
side up until ready to remove the
balls.
shows damage, press the sector shaft
bearing and the oil seal from the
housing (Fig. 8).
ASSEMBLY
1. If the sector shaft bearing and
oil seal have been removed, press a
new bearing into the housing and in-
stall a new oil seal. Do not clean,
wash or soak seals in cleaning solvent
(Fig.
7).
Apply
the
recommended
steering gear lubricant
to the
bearing
and seals.
2.
Install a bearing cup in the lower
end of the housing and in the adjuster.
3.
If the seal in the bearing adjuster
was removed, install a new seal.
Tool
-
T62F
•
3576
- A
G 1622-A
FIG.
8—Removing
Oil
Seal
and Bearing
4.
Insert the ball guides into the
holes of the ball nut, tapping them
lightly with a wood handle of a screw
driver if necessary to seat them.
5.
Insert 25 balls into the hole in
the top of each ball guide. It may be
necessary to rotate the shafi: slightly
one way, then in the opposite direc-
tion to distribute the balls in the cir-
cuit.
6. After the 50 balls are installed,
install the ball guide clamp. Torque
the screws to specification. Check the
worm shaft to make sure that it ro-
tates freely.
7. Coat the threads of the steering
shaft bearing adjuster, the housing
cover bolts, and the sector adjusting
screw with a suitable oil-resisi:ant seal-
ing compound. Do not apply sealer to
female threads and especially avoid
getting any sealer on the steering shaft
bearings.
8.
Coat the worm bearings, sector
shaft bearings, and gear teeth with
steering gear lubricant.
9. Clamp the housing in a vise, with
the sector shaft axis horizontal, and
position the steering shaft lower bear-
ing in its cup.
10.
Position the steering shaft and
ball nut assemblies in the housing.
11.
Position the steering shaft
upper bearing on the top of the worm,
and install the steering shaft bearingprocarmanuals.com
Page 138 of 413

03-06-04
Manual Steering
03-06-04
adjuster and the adjuster nut and
bearing cup. Leave the nut loose.
12.
Adjust the worm bearing pre-
load, using an in-lb torque wrench
(Fig. 9). See Part 3-13 for the speci-
fied preload.
13.
Position the sector adjusting
screw and adjuster shim, and check
the end clearance which should not
exceed 0.002 inch between the screw
head and the end of the sector shaft.
If clearance is greater than 0.002 inch,
add enough shims to reduce the end
play to within the 0.002 inch toler-
ance.
14.
Start the sector shaft adjusting
screw into the housing cover.
15.
Install a new gasket on the
housing cover.
16.
Rotate the steering shaft until
the ball nut teeth are in position to
mesh with the sector gear, tilting the
In - /b Torque Wrench
ADJUSTER NUT
21-A
FIG. 9—Checking Steering Shaft
Bearing Preload
housing so that the ball will tip
toward the housing cover opening.
17.
Lubricate the sector shaft jour-
nal and install the sector shaft and
cover.
18.
With the housing cover turned
out of the way fill the gear with 0.97
lbs of gear lubricant. Push the
housing cover and sector shaft assem-
blies into place, and install the two
top housing cover bolts. Do not tight-
en the cover bolts until it is certain
that there is some lash between ball
nut and sector gear teeth. Hold or
push the cover away from the ball nut,
then torque the bolts to specification.
19.
After loosely installing the sec-
tor shaft adjusting screw lock nut, ad-
just the sector shaft mesh load. See
Part 3-13 for the specified mesh load;
then, tighten the adjusting screw lock
nut.procarmanuals.com
Page 163 of 413

03-10-02
Ford-Thompson Power Steering Pump
03-10-02
LOWER PRESSURE
PLATE 3D590
SPRING-3D601
UPPER PRESSURE
PLATE -3A645
RETAINER END
PLATE-3D589
CAM AND ROTOR
ASSEMBLY-
-3D607
SCREW AND WASHER
ASSEMBLY-379376-S
PULLEY-3D673
PUMP SHAFT
SEAL 3B592
PLATE AND BUSHING
ASSEMBLY-3D643
0-RING
382744-S
HOUSING GASKET
3A760
G1343-B
FIG. 2—Power Steering Pump Disassembled
To adjust the belt on 8 cyl. engines
loosen the mounting bolt in the ad-
justing slot and the nut directly above
the adjusting slot. Place a suitable pry
bar between the cast boss on the
pump mounting bracket and the cast
boss on the pump cover plate and pry
upward to correct tension.
Do not pry against the reservoir to
obtain proper belt load as it can be
deformed and cause a leak.
3.
Recheck the belt tension. When
the tension has been correctly adjusted,
tighten the bolts and the fiut to speci-
fication (Part 3-13).
POWER STEERING
PUMP DRIVE BELT
REPLACEMENT
1.
Loosen the idler pulley attaching
bolts and remove the compressor drive
belt if equipped with an air condition-
er.
2.
Loosen 3 bolts and one nut at-
taching the power steering pump to
the pump bracket, and remove the
pump drive belt.
3.
Position the power steering
pump drive belt on the pulleys.
4.
Adjust the drive belt tension as
outlined in Section 2 to specification
(Part 3-13) and tighten the pump at-
taching bolts and one nut to specifica-
tion.
5.
Install the compressor drive belt
if equipped with an air conditioner
and adjust to specification (Part 16).
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
POWER STEERING
PUMP REPLACEMENT
EIGHT CYLINDER
WITHOUT AIR
CONDITIONER AND
ALL SIX CYLINDER
1.
Remove the power steering fluid
from the pump reservoir by discon-
necting the fluid return hose at the
reservoir, and allow the fluid to drain
into a suitable container.
2.
Disconnect the pressure hose
from the pump.
3.
Remove 3 bolts from the front of
the pump and the one nut at the rear
(rear nut on 8 cyl. engines only) that
attach the pump to the mounting
bracket; disconnect the belt from the
pulley and remove the pump from the
vehicle.
4.
Position the pump to the mount-
ing bracket and install the 3 bolts at
the front of pump and (rear nut on 8
cyl.
engines only) the 1 nut at the
rear. Torque to specification.
5.
Place the belt on the pulley and
adjust the belt tension (Section 2) with
Tool T63L-8620-A and tighten the
bolts and nut to specifications.
6. Torque the pressure hose fitting
hex nut to specification. Then, connect
the pressure hose to the fitting and
torque the hose nut to specification.
7.
Connect the hose to the pump.
Then, tighten the clamp.
8. Fill the power steering pump res-
ervoir with transmission fluid C1AZ-
19582-A and cycle the system to re-
move air from the steering gear sys-
tem.
9. Check for leaks and again check
the fluid level. Add fluid as necessary.procarmanuals.com
Page 164 of 413

03-10-03
Ford-Thompson Power Steering Pump
03-10-03
EIGHT CYLINDER WITH
AIR CONDITIONER
1.
Remove the power steering fluid
from the pump reservoir by discon-
necting the fluid return hose from the
reservoir and allow the fluid to drain
in a suitable container.
2.
Disconnect the pressure hose
from the pump.
3.
Remove 3 bolts from the front of
the pump and the one nut at the rear
that attach the pump to the mounting
bracket and remove the drive belt
from the pump pulley.
4.
Loosen the upper pump bracket-
to-engine attaching bolt and remove
the bolt in the belt adjusting slot. Re-
move the pump.
5.
Position the pump to the bracket
and install the bracket-to-pump at-
taching bolts and nuts. Tighten to spe-
cifications.
6. Place the belt on the pump pul-
ley. Adjust the belt tension as outlined
in Section 2 and tighten the bolts and
nut to specification.
7.
Torque the pressure hose fitting
hex nut to specification. Then, connect
the pressure hose to the fitting and
torque the hose nut to specification.
8. Connect the return hose to the
power steering pump and tighten the
clamp.
9. Fill the pump with automatic
transmission fluid C1AZ-19582-A.
Bleed the air from the system (Part
3-1) and check for leaks and again
check the fluid level. Add fluid as re-
quired.
POWER STEERING PUMP
PULLEY REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL
1.
Drain as much of the fluid as
possible from the pump through filler
pipe.
2.
Install a 3/8-16 inch capscrew in
the end of the pump shaft to prevent
damage to the shaft end by the tool
screw.
3.
Install the pulley remover, Tool
T63L-1O3OO-B, on pulley hub, and
place the tool and pump in a vise as
shown in Fig. 3.
4.
Hold the pump and rotate the
tool nut counterclockwise to remove
the pulley (Fig. 3). The pulley must be
removed without in and out pressure
on the pump shaft to prevent damage
to internal thrust areas.
INSTALLATION
1.
Position the pulley to the pump
shaft and install Tool T65P-3A733-A
as shown in Fig. 4.
2.
Hold the pump and rotate the
tool nut clockwise to install the pulley
on the shaft. The pulley face will be
flush with end of pump shaft. Install
the pulley without in and out pressure
on the shaft to prevent damage to in-
ternal thrust areas.
3.
Remove the tool.
POWER STEERING PUMP
RESERVOIR REPLACEMENT
Reservoir replacement must be done
on a clean workbench. Cleanliness of
work area and tools is extremely im-
portant when repairing any hydraulic
unit. Thoroughly clean the exterior of
the pump with a suitable cleaning sol-
vent. Do not clean, wash or soak the
shaft oil seal in solvent. Plug the inlet
and outlet openings with plugs or
masking tape before cleaning the
pump exterior or removing the reser-
voir.
REMOVAL
1.
Assemble the adapter plate (Tool
T69P-3A674-A) to the bench mounted
fixture tool (T57L-5OO-A). Position
the pump and pulley on the adapter
plate, pulley facing down.
2.
Remove the outlet fitting hex nut
and the service identification tag.
3.
Invert the pump so the pulley is
facing up and remove the reservoir by
tapping around the flange with a wood
block (Fig. 5).
4.
Remove the reservoir O-ring seal
and the outlet fitting gasket from the
pump.
INSTALLATION
Tool • T 63 L-
10300 -
G 1477 A
FIG. 3—Removing Power
Steering Pump Pulley
1478 A
FIG. 4—Installing Power
Steering Pump Pulley
1.
Install a new gasket on the outlet
fitting and a new reservoir O-ring seal
on the pump housing plate (Fig. 6).
The old gasket and seal should never
be re-used.
Too/
T57L 500-A
G1602-A
FIG. 5—Removing Pump
Reservoirprocarmanuals.com